Quick addendum, you want to tool the firestop product before installing the collar. This does a list of things that work in your favor. 1. Promotes bond to substrate 2. promotes proper 1/2 depth of seal 3. tools out air pockets 4. Makes for a cleaner install 5. Is required for any and all UL assemblies to be a complete installation.
This work doing three years 2017 to 2020 Dubai. Very good work .i have full experience this work. I am Indian but my full knowledge this work. This work name pvc pipe collar seting. This use pvc pipe, collar, rape cp648e and hilti silicon fs1.
Hi, ı have a question. İf ı install circular 0.5 mm thickness sheet metal duct with standart mortar what do you think its is safe to install fire damper (espacialy butterfly tipe) inside the duct and 150 mm wall?
Heya, great video for concepts but... Firestop doesn't belong in homes, only multi-tenant buildings with actual fire rated floors and walls built with intent to stop fire. Your typical "garage" drywall wall use home 1/2" board wouldn't stand a chance for more than a few minutes in a raging garage fire. A fire in a typical room gets well over 1000 degrees F in under 5 minutes, and continues to rise from there, whereas in your short test, with much lower temperatures in an open air environment, the lower part of your drywall simply "disappeared". Firestop drywall is 5/8" Type X and while it is far from invulnerable, 1 sheets on either side installed of a stud will actually last for one hour, not minutes. Just be careful not to pitch firestop for single owner homes as it will absolutely fail to help due too wall disintegration...
Hey Mike, thanks for the info. How do you suggest complying with section 6.2.10 of the mitigation standards? standards.aarst.org/SGM-SF-2023/22/index.html#zoom=z
@@AmericanRadonMitigation Hey, difficult to say, I believe you are working under US code so I can't comment on specifics but standards that a non-profit like the AARST develop to assist its members won't necessarily fully align with your IBC national building code. That reference you link does simply say to "observe codes", which in the case of homes is simply to apply "smoke block" (not firestop) at all floor penetration locations (usually through the bottom stud of a wall), and I'm not sure how the IBC applies to wall penetrations in a house either. Smoke block simply buys some time by not letting smoke race up to upper floors through all of the openings created for electrical and plumbing as soon a crappy 1/2" house drywall board fails and explodes off of the studs. But there are thousands of firestop systems tested by UL and Intertek for example, while there are exactly ZERO systems tested for single family dwellings as the construction materials won't hold up for an hour anyway ;).
Nice video. I feel like this test was not 100% For a complete test. the fire should be lit in a box, and the fire and smoke should have nowhere to go but through the gaps. Leave holes to feed the fire with oxygen, but the fire should have enough enclosed space to force itself through the gaps and generate heat buildup around the collar.
Quick addendum, you want to tool the firestop product before installing the collar. This does a list of things that work in your favor.
1. Promotes bond to substrate
2. promotes proper 1/2 depth of seal
3. tools out air pockets
4. Makes for a cleaner install
5. Is required for any and all UL assemblies to be a complete installation.
Thanks for the tip! Could you leave a link to the resource if you have it?
This work doing three years 2017 to 2020 Dubai. Very good work .i have full experience this work. I am Indian but my full knowledge this work. This work name pvc pipe collar seting. This use pvc pipe, collar, rape cp648e and hilti silicon fs1.
Nice video J! I like the FIRE video 🔥🔥🔥
Awe, thanks, Paul! 😉
Hi, ı have a question. İf ı install circular 0.5 mm thickness sheet metal duct with standart mortar what do you think its is safe to install fire damper (espacialy butterfly tipe) inside the duct and 150 mm wall?
wall material is aerated concrate 500 kg/m3
I am not sure. I'd reach out to a company that manufactures or sells fire-stop equipment.
Thanks u sir
You bet!
Heya, great video for concepts but... Firestop doesn't belong in homes, only multi-tenant buildings with actual fire rated floors and walls built with intent to stop fire. Your typical "garage" drywall wall use home 1/2" board wouldn't stand a chance for more than a few minutes in a raging garage fire. A fire in a typical room gets well over 1000 degrees F in under 5 minutes, and continues to rise from there, whereas in your short test, with much lower temperatures in an open air environment, the lower part of your drywall simply "disappeared". Firestop drywall is 5/8" Type X and while it is far from invulnerable, 1 sheets on either side installed of a stud will actually last for one hour, not minutes. Just be careful not to pitch firestop for single owner homes as it will absolutely fail to help due too wall disintegration...
Hey Mike, thanks for the info. How do you suggest complying with section 6.2.10 of the mitigation standards? standards.aarst.org/SGM-SF-2023/22/index.html#zoom=z
@@AmericanRadonMitigation Hey, difficult to say, I believe you are working under US code so I can't comment on specifics but standards that a non-profit like the AARST develop to assist its members won't necessarily fully align with your IBC national building code. That reference you link does simply say to "observe codes", which in the case of homes is simply to apply "smoke block" (not firestop) at all floor penetration locations (usually through the bottom stud of a wall), and I'm not sure how the IBC applies to wall penetrations in a house either.
Smoke block simply buys some time by not letting smoke race up to upper floors through all of the openings created for electrical and plumbing as soon a crappy 1/2" house drywall board fails and explodes off of the studs. But there are thousands of firestop systems tested by UL and Intertek for example, while there are exactly ZERO systems tested for single family dwellings as the construction materials won't hold up for an hour anyway ;).
Nice video. I feel like this test was not 100%
For a complete test. the fire should be lit in a box, and the fire and smoke should have nowhere to go but through the gaps. Leave holes to feed the fire with oxygen, but the fire should have enough enclosed space to force itself through the gaps and generate heat buildup around the collar.
Simulate a small room with pipe running through it and light the fire inside the room and see how that works out.
I'd be happy to if you build it!