Lady you really need to use all the steels you are down on or in the end you can can look very foolish but some of us have to learn how to learn and not look like a wise ass that is yet to find out for us that know we know and we cringe hearing someone spew. But you got a good channel I like it a lot I just hope you learn
Having made knives and being a firmer professional historian I have done both "hands-on" and historical/metallurgical research on the subject over the last 30 years. I have reached several conclusions concerning 1095. 1095 was first a steel designed for industrial applications . As such it was produced in huge quantities. That equaled availability and affordability for the cutlers in the early 20th century. It could be "sold" on the notion that it contained a high percentage of carbon ie .95%, as opposed to the common 1080 of the day. The other elements in its composition are generally beneficial to cutlery but the .95% carbon is not. In the heat treating processes only about .82% carbon will actually go into solution in an iron matrix. That is to say, will transform into the state necessary to create a proper cutting edge. The rest of the carbon will remain in a larger state and work against blade strength. (In its original applications 1095 was ideal, just so for cutlery) 1095 is almost impossible to truly optimize for cutlery since the quenching requirements are finicky to say the least. The quench rate to optimize requires a teperarure drop of 600 d/f in 2 seconds BUT if a quenching medium is too fast ( water at any temperature for example) there is a large loss rate due to cracking. Too slow, blade softer than optimum. Too fast, the blade cracks. A 2 second window to drop over 600 degrees. This stringent set of limits it is impossible to optimize 1095 in mass production. Not matter what is claimed so called "cryo" treating will not fix this. A MUCH better solution is to use 80crV2. Which is based in 1080 with additional Chromium and Vanadium and is very easy to heat treat for optimization. It is really the carbon steel analog of the stainless 14C28N.
I think a lot of the 1095 brigade misses the point that any argument for it’s qualities over a powder metallurgy steel could be made more strongly for a different carbon steel.
D2 is a carbon steel. Hard for the 1095 crew to show 1095 to be superior to D2. In my opinion, 1095 is not a good representation of carbon steels for a "carbon vs stainless" match up.
@@DianaWimmer-l5i I'm having some bad luck with my 80crv2 heat treating consistently from njsb. Crazy that the 1084 from the sane supplier is easy to consistently treat. I can follow the same recipe and get anything from 53 to 58 hrc post tempering. I've decided to stick with 5160 as my thicker blade stock steel and 15n20 for my .155 blade stock knives until I figure out this 80crv2. I just can't seem to grasp it. Oven or forge...doesn't seem to matter...throwing half of it away. I do love it when it turns out right though. I'd love to talk with you about the best suppliers and methods of heat treating it as I do want to continue my 80crv2 journey.
Many seasoned bushcrafters like a carbon steel blade such as 1095 for its ability to start a fire with flint rock. There have been great strides in knife steel development but this does not diminish the capabilities of 1095. If a carbon steel blade suits your needs there is no need to change and you can spend your money on other gear. I like 1095 cuz it is cheap. If you wish to spend big bucks on basic steels with big brand names that is your choice. No one seems to blink at a $2000 cell phone of which most people will only use 2% of its capabilities and these same people will buy a $500 knife to cut cardboard boxes down for recycling. Marketing is everywhere and is very sophisticated in how they part you with your money. Ask yourself "why" before you ask "what if?" to every possible survival situation under the sun. I did not know Work Sharp made chew toys for dogs but I bet his teeth can now cut paper towels.
Why smash up the spine of your knife? If you’re carrying a rock to strike sparks with, why not just also carry a dedicated striker? Also, for this type of fire making you’re probably gonna have to carry around char cloth as well…all the more reason you can just add a striker to your rock and stash of char cloth. I’d rather have a aebl/14c knife which is more tough, supports a finer edge and is stain resistant while still being about as easy to sharpen and couple that with a striker. Also, learn to make a bow drill fire and or other primitive means..on top of modern methods such as an ol reliable bic
@@ShoahBiz -Yes why carry char cloth , punish your knife, and train yourself with fire making skills when you could just carry a Bic? You do so cuz you may need these skills in an emergency. The odds of needing these skills are remote. Sort of like carrying a $500 knife instead of a SAK. If you can justify your carry to yourself you do not need to justify it to anyone else. All I am saying is that 1095 may be all the blade you need and it is far from bad steel. Cowboy boots and 1095 will always have a following for reasons that are not always obvious to everyone.
@@kevola5739 you missed the whole point. If you’re going to carry around some flint/chert or whatever plus some char cloth, presumably in a tin, why not also just carry a dedicated striker? It’s not really adding much to the overall packages footprint and then you don’t have to beat the hell out of the spine of your knife and sacrifice using higher alloy steels. Having a belt knife that can throw sparks by itself doesn’t mean you’ll get fire easily. You need a sufficiently hard stone and something to catch the spark..typically something you have to make beforehand.
@@ShoahBiz - I agree. This is why it is used as an option, not the main source for fire. It is why someone such as Dave Canterbury prefers carbon steel blades to give him options. It would not be my option since I do not have the skill even with a striker. Give me a Bic any day.
He also said that specific steel characteristics support acute geometry better. Generally something that can be taken to high hardness and remain tough will take a thin geometry better. 1095 isn’t particularly tough at high hardness. A toughness value isn’t the whole story, materials have something called stress strain curve. toughness is load it takes to deform then fracture the material. Harder materials take more energy to deform and less to fracture, even if you have a tough material, if the hardness is low you can’t get thin geometry because the apex deform before it’s anywhere near fracturing.
My daughter once chipped the hell out of my Spyderco Mannix 2 S110v by opening her tin piggy-bank with it. I sharpened out the chips and put a new edge on just by using a Spyderco Sharpmaker. I like Carbon steels too because they strop up so easily and I like traditional knifes with patina. You're right geometry is so important.
Not sure about all the fuss over steels. I have knives of many different steels some better than others but never had an issue with any of them. If you’re using your knives properly for the job they’re intended for they will last. Some stay sharper longer some have more of a tendency to rust but again from my cheap knives to more expensive never had one fall apart, break a blade etc. many times your paying extra money just for the hailed steel but you can do with less and save some cash….
Your rant actually got me as a subscriber to your channel. I have got knives in all of the cheap steels, from when super steels weren't made, but most of the ones that haven't failed have been CS knives because of blade geo and a quality heat treat. I've been told you can't sharpen a VG1, carbon V, and 3V on normal stones. Sure you can. It takes a lot of time, but you can do it. So I know everything you have said was true. You and a few others are the only ones I found with the guts to say it. Bravo! My problems with super steels are the heat treatments most are getting and blade geometry from the big companies. I guess another problem would be the owners not knowing "you can't or shouldn't do that with a knife." Take Care and Stay Safe.
What is your take on L6, 8670, and DM1? Sometimes you want extreme toughness on a thin blade. I didn't design the intercostal spaces, they are what they are! Not all knives are designed for cutting.
Great video. It is unfortunate that people do not go out and try stuff for themselves. You may remember, I was the 440 and 1095 guy. But that was mostly because that is what I was used to. I then ventured off and tried other steels. I will admit, it has been fun finding what other steels are capable of and or if I personally need the level of performance they provide. Thanks for the continued fun content and original view on things. God bless and have a great day.
I bring along two Eze-Lap diamond hone&stone (I get the 4 pack, 1200, 600, 400 and 250 grit) @16g each to sharpen any steel I happen to carry. Small, light, effective. I like to use my Spyderco Chaparral XHP to cut leather over my other knives with super steels, because the thin blade cuts better and seems to lasts longer. Also fits better in hand compared to the larger knives. Also prefer it to my carbon steel leathercraft blades that don't cut long before needing sharpening.
No argument here, but he also says edge geometry is king. However, since my knives see light use I have come to the conclusion that "FOR ME" steel makes no difference. I like Case knives and care not whether it's 1095 or 420hc.
Some people don’t want to believe that their favorite thing isn’t great anymore. Technology changes. There’s a reason everyone has an iPhone or android and nobody has a rotary phone. There’s also a reason why we should probably leave old steels behind. I don’t hear anybody saying steel is unnecessary because their ancestor used bronze and that was enough for them.
I've noticed this love affair with 1095 is also tied to a particular knife company known for their ever famous heat treatment. It never seems to dawn on them that the reason so many knives are made in 1095 is because the steel is inexpensive and easy on their equipment. I'm not bashing 1095. It has its place, but please, just stop glorifying it as the end all be all. Personal experience has a lot to do with steel preferences. Three of my favorite knives are S30V. They are my heavy users. The steel takes a keen edge, are easy to maintain, and I don't have to worry about rust. So yea, because of this experience, I like S30V. The reality is all three knives have really good geometry and are well made. If the steel was say M4 instead of S30V I'd probably be big on M4. Like you said, knife geometry matters way more than which steel it's made out of. I'm convinced the large variety of steel choices for knife makers has more to do with marketing and hype than differences in performance.
Esee makes a strong 1095 knife. For the cost, it’s a decent package. They lose a shaving edge sitting in their sheaths though. That corrosion/retention thing is real. I can’t wait for the Architect Knives in Magnacut to come back in stock.
The issue with Larrin Thomas and all of his scientific testing is that testing in a controlled environment rarely ever correlates to real world use. I remember when I was looking for an air purifier to get for my room, one brand had all this great marketing on their specifications and all it took was someone using a particle meter in their room to prove that the air purifier at 1/4 the price filtered out more crap out of the air then something at 4x the price.
She blinded me with science.. I think you have a bunch of great points here. I don't use my knives enough that I think I will ever have to do anything but strop to maintain the edges. I'm currently working on a semi custom knife made of 1095. It's taking me a while to find the angle. I think the manufacturer of the knife did it with shaking hands. I'll get it eventually.... Don't think I'll ever have to sharpen my S90V. Keep the good stuff coming Erica. Appreciate you.
@@ericasedc and you know that how? Tell me how I’m uneducated in knife steel. If I was truly uneducated you’d say more than just calling me uneducated. I have plenty experience with making knives. But you’re right I’m uneducated. 🤡
This video reminds me of a knife conversation I got in to at a bar . Where this guy felt super self righteous with his 400$super steel knife lecturing on how we’re back in the dark ages with our high carbon steels. So we did a pocket check lo and behold he had a dull 400$ knife with a broken tip we had two shaving sharp high carbon steel. The best way to care for an edge is to rub it regularly with something harder than the steel lessening the need to actually grind it back to sharpness. I’m not here to hate on super steels but there seems to be a brittleness happening with very expensive blades. If you want to see what different steels can endure watch joe x video’s they are destruction test and very revealing about behaviors of different steels.
Makes sense to me Miss Erica. I don't have a lot of super steel knives, and the ones I do have are probably old news to the folks on here. Most of my knives are slipjoints, so the 1095 is fine, you dull them and hit the strop and you're good to go again. I am not against new steels, but I'm not gonna pay the money they want for them. Pretty cool information you have, and I enjoy learning about these steels from you. Good job on this video. Have a blessed week. Had to add one more thing, everyone I know carries a guided field sharpener, so you ain't lying lol, I ain't never sharpened my knives on a rock, I carry that field sharpener.
Who has EVER said that 1095 is the BEST steel? Best for what?... Is it a cheap, durable and easily sharpened steel that works great for survival knives?... Yes it is, hence why it's so popular. There are not "BEST" steel, there are only steels that fulfills a certain purpose.
Great points Erica!! I have so many steels I’d prefer over 1095. To me it’s always seemed like a basic cheap steel, I’d rather pay a bit more for steal that outperforms!
Not sure how I got here, but thanks for showing people there is value in challenging conventional wisdom, using the things you own, and well... touching grass now and then. :)
Larrin’s articles don’t even say that 1095 is that great, it’s pretty middling in terms of toughness. I think the spyderco forums are a pretty interesting place to look at the toughness vs wear resistance debate from the perspective of actual users. There is this thread on salt water steels comparing H2, LC200N, and Magna-cut an observation that emerged is that a lot of people preferred LC200N to magna-cut despite it having better fine edge holding because it chipped more easily than LC200N when cutting very rocky and sandy dirty materials or scraping off barnacles. The hands down favorite for many folks there however is serrated H1/H2, despite it looking pitiful on Larrin’s chart. TDLR, there is a reason why spyderco does salt water knives with steels that have a spectrum of edge retention.
1095 is like a old square body truck. One of the best at the time, and still some wonderful examples out there. But at the end of the day still old. You have to know there is going to be some maintenance involved in owning one. New steels are like a newer truck, better in many ways, less maintenance with more conveniences. Both can break, but one is more reliable. At the end of the day both will probably get the keyboard experts where they are going. Just my opinion.
Priced accordingly is fair. I can't tell any difference in actual use to be honest, a good knife is a good knife to me. I like simple steels because they take a wicked edge quickly and strop up great. Whatever to each their own.
Outdoors55 has great videos of using different steels and literally all of them cutting paper exactly the same after. It's marketing hype. I tried after because it was heartbreaking and my tests showed the same thing, it's all geometry and a bit about hardness.
My opinion, 1095 is a great steel for a knife maker to work their practice crafts, it can be made and worked with easily. Its not really a great steel in the end for the consumer though in the age of supersteels. I started making some basic drop points with a variety of polished wood handles secured with brass or nickel pins and have been giving them out as gifts to some family members and I am primarily able to do this because of the cheapness of 1095 steel itself and the ease of working with those easily machined materials, because believe me I've messed up quite a few ideas so for now until I learn more and develop a skill I will continue to be producing these test blades in 1095 especially in this economy. 😅 I like my Vanax stuff a little better than Magnacut. Haven't had corrosion problems on my Elmax or S35vn blades in humid environments so hyper corrosion resistance offered by super steels seems almost exclusively like an ocean diver tool which is a pretty limited amount of people that would need a blade made of such a material...
Our fathers and grandfathers carried fixed blades and slipjoint pocket knives with 1055-1095 steel and got everything done that needed getting done and is affordable. 1095 is the goat of knife steels period. It holds a decent edge, is tuff and easy to sharpen. The stainless ability of steels is irrelevant to me. I dont mind getting a patina on my blades.
Agree 1095 is classic for sure, but wont be hanging with most steels, even AEB-L. Theres really no reason to keep using it unless the product requires a patina and some folks love patina as do i, but if im honest, 420HC is still even a step above 1095. At least on paper.
Bad storm knocked out my electricity and internet for five days. Just got everything restored today, and it was great to see a video from you👍Cheers, E!
This video is awesome! I'm really glad that you made it. Now people can see that it's not impossible to sharpen supersteel in the field. I'm so tired of the river rock. What if brigade.
I find it funny that not to long ago you made videos talking about issues with the way people acted in the knife community towards others. You made videos talking about bullying in the community. Then here we are months later and look at how you’re presenting yourself and your opinions towards others in the community that have different preferences or different beliefs. Look at how your responses to comments are that don’t perfectly align with your own beliefs. Being condescending telling them thanks for being uneducated or your momma type of responses sure doesn’t align with a very good community. Seems as if you’re dividing people more than you are proving any steel argument. You may want to take a step back, take a look in the mirror. I’m sure I’ll probably also get a rude reply from this comment as well but it’s worth it if by some slim chance it makes you look at how you’re acting towards the community. Watching your channel has become like watching politics. If you have to bash others opinions or preferences in order to promote your preference or beliefs that says more about you than any steel.
thanks for spending your time explaining things in way thats easy for me to understand its definitely helping me with whats what in the knife community and the reason behind why someone would want a super steel over a simple steel but for me i choose cost and the time it takes to sharpen its probably garbage to most but i luv 420hc because the knives its used in are almost always made in the US and there almost always very affordable also its tough, it gets sharp quickly and it has high corrosion resistance sure it doesn't hold an edge long but thats the tradeoff i chose over edge retention i lost my pocket sharpener one time and stroped it on a piece of wood which got it just sharp enough to cut what i was cutting at the time
I use a cheep pocket knife or two (letter openers). My 1095's and similar stay sharp, don't chip, and are magical (because I hardly ever USE them). Good topic and heart felt emotion presenting it. Take care as always.
You're like the Mythbuster of the knife industry, right on! 😁👍 Keep up the great work and don't let the haters get you down. You do great work and give great advice. 👍 Thanks for sharing, take care and Cheers!
I love all steel because I love iron. But the truth is that 1095 can be bought for a very good price and the knife made from it can be sold very expensively. It is therefore not surprising that it is popular with manufacturers. But! I think that nowadays, we knife enthusiasts should get something better than the 1095 for our money.
I appreciate what I think was the core of the argument. It seemed that it was less about the peeformance of 1095 v. Super steels, and more about holding manufacturers accountable for value v. Pricing (i.e. don't charge super steel prices for high carbon performance).
1095 may well not be the best steel in the world ,BUT 1095 blades have never let me down and have done everything I need from them in whatever environment I have found myself over the years and I have been in some strange places far away from civilization . They perform well are easy to maintain and I don't need a second mortgage to be able to afford them The price difference between a 1095 blade and a new "super steel blade can range from $150 t0 $350 minimum depending on make, which is great if you have enough money to afford these things ,mine are tried and tested over years and I love them just as they are .I can't afford the new super steel blades they are simply too expensive to bother with ,I know what 1095 can do I trust it and the makers who make their blades from it and that is what matters to me in the end . I have no doubt that there are superb blades out there made from all kinds of different steel and I am also sure you are recommending great knives and great steels ,but I don't need the latest steel or the the worlds finest most expensive steel ,I need one that gets the job done in all situations that won't let me down and I have that already .
What do you think of ESEE and TOPS, most of whose knives are made of 1095 steel and are quite expensive ? I have seen 1095 blades completely twisted in the trunks during batoning : they resisted and became straight again. Not sure that all super-steels would have done the same...
Ok then go watch a blade sports champion bend 4V like a twig and it goes right back . Those companies are over priced and ride on marketing. I like ESEE more than Tops but they are both guilty of selling $30 knives for $119
@@ericasedc Thank you Erica for your kind response. I love your work and your honesty. I think you are Christian. So I also thank you for your testimony. Thank you to exist !
1095 is just a legacy steel that’s only suitable for old/traditional style knives. It was surpassed by so many other steels long ago. RIP. Great video as always.
Ok, bear with me 'cause it's a long one here. I actually think we agree more than we dont, but my views are pretty nuanced and often harder to get across in detail in a comment section. I agree with everything you said, up until about the 10 min mark. So would Larrin, too. And I agree that use has to inform your perception at a certain point. Looking at specs on paper will not inform real world use. Fortunately I have a lot of that under my belt, too. I will also say up front: if I had my druthers, 1095 would not be my first choice of steel, but it's *fine*. I'm also A-OK with Magnacut. It is one of a handful or so of "super steels" that I'd be confident in using harder outdoors, along with the likes of 3v, cruwear, and even on up to 4v and the like. Basically the bigger the knife and the more force that will be applied to it, or the thinner the geometry I want ro run, the tougher I want the steel. Here's where we disagree: although geometry is king and can really compensate for a ton, you will hit a point where fattening geometry to compensate for lack of toughness really isn't practical anymore. Where the toughness of a steel really shines is in its ability to hold comparatively thin edges with less failure. So you can run a knife to low edge angles that perform very nicely rather than having to overcome the more brittle steel comps by fattening geometry to the point that it doesn't cut, carve, or chop as well as you'd like. The very tough basic carbons with fine microstructure (1084, 5160, 52100, etc) along with the AEB-L family stainless steels do very well at low edge angles or high force. There's a reason you dont see steels like maxamet or even M390 used in razors, kitchen cutlery, and axes. Carving knives are a good example, too. It would be rather laughable to put a thin scandi zero grind on S110V. These steels are just not tough enough to stand up to extreme force or to hold very thin geometry without failing or getting chippy. I think we also have different ideas about what encompasses field maintenance. You'll be able to hone just sbout anything on ceramic just fine. But, sometimes you drop your knife on some rocks and get some chipping. This has happened to me. I LOVE a steel like 14C28N because when things like that happen, the damage tends to be minimal compared to more brittle steels. I have run into staples in boxes with that steel and sharpened out some small but noticeable chips in less than 10 mins. On the other hand, I've grown to hate M390/20CV more than perhaps any other steel I've used because it experiences edge failure and chipping very easily and it's a lot harder to sharpen out. And I use a DC4 stone with diamonds. I've used them so much that I've gone through 3 or 4 of them over the years. That would actually be a good experiment to try on the channel. Have a maker get you the same knife in say, AEB-L and M390, in the same thinner geometry (decently thin BTE with a bevel of 17° or even less). Smack the edge on the same brick, note the damage, and then sharpen it out on a field stone and see how it goes. Part of my point in asking what "super steel" is in the comment on your last vid is to start shedding light on the fact that it isnt really anything too specific. It's more of a general marketing term than anything else. The steels eveyone considers "super steels" vary a ton in their properties. Some are great for outdoor use, some not so much. And there isnt anything wrong with basic carbons. Some are also better than others, and they absolutely do still have their place and offer advantages over even a majority of "super steels" in specific uses. Lastly, dont trust makers TOO much. They can spout BS just like anyone else, and sometimes have a motive to do so.
Gabe from The Home Slice, actually did a test of the “sharpen it with a rock “ myth with several different steels, he also did an edge retention test against either chopping or batoning with the same steels. I think High hardness Nitro V, CPM-Magna-cut, and 10V came out as winners. Check him out though, he’s the dual grit edge guy and does lots of interesting stuff.
@@nandayane to be clear, when I say "field stone," I mean something like the Fallkniven DC4 I carry. A small, packable/pocketable sharpening stone you take into the field. Not a natural rock you just find somewhere. Edge damage sucks to sharpen out no matter what, but it sucks way more when you have a 4-5in belt knife (or bigger) that you're trying to sharpen on such a small stone. It has been my direct experience that a lot of the simple carbons and other fine microstructure steels like that AEB-L/Sandvik family tend to suffer less damage in general, it is easier to sharpen that damage out, and it is easier to sharpen them to very keen, scary sharp edges. The absence of hard carbides that give most "super steels" their higher edge retention generally makes these tougher steels and easier to sharpen. Interestingly, I have also experienced higher hardness in these steels being easier to sharpen, but it makes sense as they still aren't that hard to abrade and are just easier to de-burr. AEB-L and 14C28N are two of my all-time favorite steels not just for outdoor stuff, but in general, for these reasons and for their ability to support super low geometries well. I gave those Home Slice videos a quick look and skimmed the tests you're referencing. Nitro V is a similar Sandvik family steel, so I guess I'm not too surprised. It does mirror my experience. To be critical though, we just got done talking a ton about how geometry influences performance, and he isn't controlling for it at all. So his results are extremely observational and maybe not all that trustworthy in the end. It is easier for thinner knives to score lower on Bess scales, for instance. This is why I suggested getting the same knife in different steels in the post above. Something like the Spyderco Mule series is perfect. I'm more interested in seeing an edge damage by steel comparison, and then sharpening it out on DC4 vid. I have gotten steels like 14C28N, 1084, and 80CRV2 paper towel slicing sharp on nothing but a DC4 and CC4 field stone progression. Magnacut may not be too bad, but I really haven't had to do it yet. I have a harder time on stuff like 3V, and harder still the more you go up in carbide content. Again, fuck M390. But it's probably still possible with more time and patience. That's the thing though. These "simpler" steels have some benefits and have their place.
Rex 121 wouldn't cut anything after it rusted to the point that it could not be shared. One week at sea will do that. H2, tungsten, and ceramic will clean a fish or cut a line. If it gets dull or breaks, whip out a spare. Do your sharing at home.
@@ericasedc No, but when one goes fishing or sailing for a week, you need a knife that will stay sharp and not rust out. I have some Vanix, Magnacut and LN200 folders, but I need large fixed blades. My opinion is rusty or dull H2 steel. My answer is to carry many low-retention, high-correction-resistant knives.
I think you missed out on a couple of points. I'm a hobby knife maker and I should say I do not sell any of them. I also do not have the capability to heat super steels nor do I want to make that investment. So, if I did sell my knives I'd be pretty pissed about anyone saying my (80CRV2) simple steel knives are inferior and I'd be defending that steel to everyone. The people who invested their hard earned money in my knives (hypothetically) would also now be defending their choice as that's human nature. It's not that I think my knives are better in any way to the performance of super steels, but they are better to me because I made them. Everyone wants to defend their choice and every backyard knife maker wants to defend the easier to heat treat steels. Great video and I thought you put your case across well.
I think you missed the point I was getting across. It had nothing to do with anyone’s backyard 1095/80CRV2 knives😂 But thanks so much for watching and commenting. I appreciate it!
1095 is a good base budget steel, but its not particularly tough for a high carbon steel. Some guys seem to be under the impression that ALL carbon steels are high toughness, and thats simply inaccurate. Good video!
I’ve been in the knife game for a long time, and every year there’s some new supersteel everybody chases for a lil while. Then after awhile there’s a new supersteel and a lot of people discount last year’s supersteel as inferior. I’ve got em all, and 1095 still just works and takes a nice edge fast. I prefer an easier sharpening steel for field use. It’s not that you “can’t maintain it” it’s that it doesn’t come back as fast. Every steel dulls out eventually. Higher hardness edges microchip faster so you have to remove more material rather than realign edges. Yeah, 1095 doesn’t hold an edge as long, but I’ve never had a 1095 blade I own fail on me. I have had “supersteel” knives break and bend. I think a lot of that is due to heat treat. The old steels have been perfected over time and the new are still being experimented with. (I don’t like to microbevel my edges and mess up the grind) I use diamond and ceramics. The only real difference in use, is that you spent $100 more for Magnacut
Always tickles me when a person calls BS on the willfully ignorant… ever so gently! Personally, I noticed on a scale from 1-10 for the 3 criteria… edge retention, toughness, and corrosion resistance…. 5’s for each is not a easy find. Something is always missing. For me, corrosion resistance is a biggie because cutting food is a huge part of what I ask of my EDC. Low #’s on corrosion resistance for any steel or super steel makes it suck! 1095 is one of them. Entertaining vid little sis!😊
Great video! If you lose subs, I'll sub from my other channel 😂. 1095 is not the best even among the simple carbon steels. There are better options such as O1 or A2, but they do not compare with modern steels. We have had an incredible jump in steels in recent years! My field sharpener of choice came free with a SMKW order. It is a diamond sharpemer that opens like a butterfly knife. It has 400 and 100 grit and weighs nothing. With it, I can maintain anything in the field from axes, machetes, fixed blades, and poclet knives in any steel. Who goes in the field without a sharpener of some kind when you need to use a cutting tool? The rock thing is a survival fantasy. The other thing that I wanted to mention is that Larins steel charts are at a lower hardness than what is optimum for most steels. They are at a hardness that large commercial makers use. I mention this because edge retention of many new super steels is greater than what the charts show. The way to figure this stuff out is simply to use a lot of knives and do your own testing. Now with all of that said I can still take one of my O1 or A2 knives on a multi day camping trip and enjoy the heck out of it!
Clearly the 1095 knife would have been dangerous to use, maybe cut the whole table in half , and then sharpen itself of the air back to atom popping edge.
This right here. Certain big makers will ride 1095 till its wore out with a absolute RIDICULOUS price tag. Theres no reason at all 1095 should be $160+ .
Hi Erika. I did some research on steels 12C27, 14C28N and 420. These are stainless and are right behind 1095 in terms of toughness. So why do manufacturers use rusty 1095? After all, everyone should be happy that their jungle knife does not rust.
Omg Slater! The Palm Cut Test!! I love it!! Who needs paper when you got flesh?! Dude I swear you have the patience of a saint, explaining and demonstrating these FACTS for what seems like the 97th time! I love School Teacher Erica!! Like, it's one thing to be ignorant and misinformed about 1095 vs super steels...that's understandable...there's not much real world application test data out there (and it certainly ain't coming from Tops or Esee, etc), but I honestly don't understand why some of these aptly monikered 'Bushcraft Boys' get all defensive about their beloved simple steels (like that condescending, patronizing rude ass lil hoe cake in the comments of your last video ha!). That dumpster fire tard cake seems to be the exception tho...most of these misinformed old timers (like me!) are willing and eager to learn about super steels! I love my GECs, but have no illusions about their (lack of) edge retention. My GEC 21 is DONE after a few days of food prep sessions on a cutting board! I'll grab my Spyderco s110v Manix 2 if I really want to put in WORK! Like, there are 100 year old airplanes still in service that remain functional, but I'll be taking my flights on a modern jet, thank you very much!! Love these educational videos!! Btw, just how in the heck is your skin so flawless?!? You are literally glowing! My old ass is jealous!! You look positively radiant!! 🌞🌜💫 🥰. I need to get on one of those rainstorm face wash skincare programs immediately!! 💦😂. Sorry for the length of this!! (I say that to your Mom all the time!!) Yet another fantastic video, Erica!!! 🧡
1095 is a usable steel for knives (assuming it is well hardened), but it is at the lower end of the scale of steels suitable for knives. 1095 does not have a single special feature that would put the steel in a higher position. Personally, I would prefer a tool steel over a carbon steel, for example, the simple A2 is clearly superior to 1095, not to mention powder steels, which are in a completely different league.
Sorry to burst the bubble, but 1095 has done way more in the world than all the other super duper steels ever will! And besides it's my Grandad's knife!
@@knifelore1647 With this "argument" you can also go back to the Stone Age, even the descendants of the Homo Sapiens were already using stone tools 2.5 million years ago.
Just tested again, having a hell of a time telling a differnce between 52100, and cpm4v. Both stopped shaving at the same point and both stopped reliably cutting pad at the same number of passes. ive been alternating between cutting carpet pad, cicil rope, and paper and its taking forever. Both are struggling with the pad and rope but still cut it and both still easily slice paper. In real life i would just sharpen both because they arent at the level of sharpness i like. Now i decided to strop both and the 52100 was quickly back to shaving hairs and the 4v wouldnt strop back to shaving sharp and id have to take it to a diamond stone....heck of a time telling any noticeable difference and only one takes a shaving sharp edge again with a few swipes on a strop....Id love to see you perform some tests erica to see what you think. I really dont want this to be true because i have a closet full of knives but honestly, i cant tell any difference in actual use.
@@ericasedc one is deep cuts cutlery, I'm sure very high hrc and one it wachtman knife and tool that I thinned out to be of similar thickness on the 2x72
@@kurts4867 O1 and 1095 are the same thing. A2 can be good if treated at like 63/64 HRC. 80CRV2 is only good above 62HRC. Not a fan of 52100 unless it’s over 63.5 HRC. 1075 is trash. 8650 is decent if done properly.
@@ericasedc thank u. Was (emphasis was..) looking at a nice looking, well made bushcraft knife in O1 but asking $260 bucks for it ??!!! Sounds overpriced after listening to you... It's the hardness and heat treat then ??
O1 is different than 1095. The former is lightly alloyed to be much more easily hardenable and to have a higher working hardness than plain carbon steel. The much slower quench required to fully harden even much thicker sections of O1 will result in less warpage. A2 is another step up in that regard, and D2 even more. Very important for swords and slender parts. I've used all of them to make punches, chisels and tooling for blacksmithing that kick ass and cut mild steel every day. I work(ed) for an industrial heat treating company for years. I still do manual heat treating for them, such as a 3000 axe head production run. Each one quenched and tempered by me with my trusty giant 316ss tongs.
@@ericasedc I too too big hopefully I don’t mind it and just like for my collection. I figured you would do a review anyways for your own sake and ours for we all appreciate and respect your skill at it. Especially pertaining to such an iconic “grail” knife. Maybe you could borrow one and do. Maybe help the mass convince CRK to make a mini or small version Zaan. Would be perfect! I would love to hear your thoughts on it and would sure get your views up from. I too only like carrying the small. Plus your thoughts on it would help influence totally for like minded. Which is why I love your channel. You rock. Hope you do more soon! Be well!
I’ve been carrying my Benchmade mini adira for my summer knife and it is in magnacut and I’ve been using little work Sharp system that I have in my truck and I can get it hair splitting sharp on the go….I don’t buy some of the nonsense people spew….You can use super steals on the go👍🏻Awesome video btw🙂
And that is the crux, the ridiculous pricing of some basic carbon steel knives. Someone mentioned GEC, and they are egregious, but what about Tops?!?! The prices they charge are just onerous. Even Esee, charges way too much. I get that they seem to offer great service and warranty, but you pay for that….actually you overpay for that. I’d much rather choose a quality knife in 3V or Cruwear with minimal warranty. Those most likely wouldn’t ever need a warranty. But it’s not just 1095, look at what Winkler charges for 80CRV2!!!! For that money, you could get an equivalent knife design from Carothers in Delta 3V and it’s multiple times better for similar costs. At least KaBar prices their 1095 knives appropriately.
With Gec you pay for craftsmanship and you can't buy that today for 20$. They should be around 100$ the problem is that some Gec dealers are shameless not to mention the ebay flippers.
@@אלכסס-ח5ג 💯 ..if someone can make anything close for 20 bucks in the states ...sign me up for 2. I Dont know how people think things get made. Even if you have 5 bucks worth of steel...that 5 dollars grows rapidly during the processes of making a knife...even if it's just stock removal on those 10's of thousands of dollars worth of machines. There is clearly a lack of understanding and its becoming a pandemic. Don't even mention the hours it took to make it...I'm sure that should be free too 😆
Am I the only one who knows 1095 from a sword maker's perspective? What I first learned about it 1095 is that its a harder high carbon steel. It excels at edge retention but struggles at toughness. It will chip and shatter with hard use but will almost always retain its shape because its so rigid. For this reason the recommend it for short swords and daggers. If you use it for a long sword the torsion and impact vibrations will cause micro cracks to form and it will inevitably shatter with extended use. So the steel has its benefits, namely how long it can hold an edge compared to other high carbon steels but it comes with the significant drawback of breaking instead of bending. Atleast in weapon smithing you will see 1095 commonly as a budget short sword, and spear heads, stuff that is small, thin and needs to hold an edge longterm. 1045 is what they use for budget tomahawks, maces and cleaver style blades that rely on mass abd geometry to cut rather than edge retention. 1060 is what they use for budget Longswords, Great Swords, Nodachi and competition cutter swords, anything that needs a more even mix or rigidity and toughness. 1095 makes sense in knife form but when compared to stainless steels it loses out on the edge retention and corrosion resistance. As a sword steel its brittle but as a knife steel its above average in toughness. It has its uses but as a knife stainless steels outperform it in all the areas that matter most, namely edge retention. You won't need a river rock if the edge holds all weekend because the steel composition, tempering and geometry allow it to stay sharper for longer.
@@ericasedc 1095 is tough for a knife but brittle for a sword was all I wanted to convey in my long winded post. Thanks for reading through it and making this video.
I sharpen Magnacut on my Worksharp field sharpener all the time. The only steel that has ever given me trouble on that sharpener is M390 but to be fair, that was a Microtech, which is batshit soft. I did sharpen my grandpa's old knife on a rock once in 2010 when I was an idiot, didn't carry proper gear, and didn't know that pocket sharpeners existed and I got lost with nothing but my bow, my grandpa's knife, a lighter, and a water bottle. I don't ever want to do that shit again
@@ericasedc because I've lived that survival situation that the "what if" squad talks about. It's not as fucking easy as they claim. It took me an hour to get an edge that would featherstick on that knife using a rock and we're talking about an ancient Western L39 which is made of some mystery carbon steel. 1075 if I had to guess based on how it performs
if 1095 is good steel for shears and impact and mold injections and toughness and marine environment then they would be in factories and machines and on boats and same for knife usage way better steels these days pay for what the steel is worth
LMAO... you are too much! I so love the passion... I feel it. Even the Doc says that geometry is more important... watch his video with CJ Buck from Buck knives... and he confirms so much of what you said here.
@@ericasedc I totally get it!! I often “give companies I like grief about things like this because I care and am passionate about it also… thanks for doing what you do!!!
Agreed, my bk16 is my only 1095. 1095 isn't that tough, like really. 10v has a better toughness rating on KSNerds while being more stain resistant and a ton more edge retention. Not even a top 20 steel imo
I don't quite get the fascination with stainless steels. Clean your blades and get on with life. I don't like 1095...but by gawd I'll take 15n20 (not related to 14c28n) 😂...all day over a s--v . To each their own. In my world I'll take a good machete ...from Walmart. 😮...a 15n20 "bushcraft" knife....and a Rex45 pm2....EVERYDAY. Say it with me....EVERYDAYYYYYYYY! 😅
@@ericasedc is somebody actually saying 1095 is better than s110v ? There are some carbon steels that I love love love. Talk about outdated. Outpost 76 tested a 420hc Buck 203 (search that 10 dollar knife) and it outperformed everything in his cardboard test. It had nothing to do with the steel type...it just accidentally has God Mode geometry. I'm gonna make my carbon steel knives, but no way I'd advertise that if they were made out of a superior steel that thru wouldn't be better. They also wouldn't be selling for 150 bucks. You know all this I'm sure. 150 dollar 15n20 knife would cost ME 300 to make in k390. There's a time and place for everything. Different customers , different budgets.
@@ShoahBiz I get that. You'd think that sk85...that work tuff gear uses would completely turn off people that live on the coast of Florida but yet...there's scab using the crap out of his. A little oil will surprisingly go a long way. Where I live ...the humidity is 98% today and that's pretty much the story all year. I have those challenges. I may use a can of wd40 a year just coating blades. I get the hassle. It's tough work.
Just for the sake of authenticity, I had a knife blade made of Sandvik steel. I was camping in northern Ontario without an axe...it was a family camp ground and I was with my wife and three daughters. We wanted nightly campfires and wood was available (logs, 3-4" in diameter and about 1 1/2 ' long), and no axe meant that I had to use my knife. It worked just fine but it did require sharpening and without a sharpening system, I scrounged the beach for a flat rock. I found one with two layers of stone...one softer and one harder. I used this stone to return some semblance of sharp to my knife. I was quite pleased with myself and have that stone still to this day...thirty years later. 🤷♂️
I think one reason they don't or can't use a ceramic rod is because you have these companies putting a 30 degree edge on them😂 then you micro bevel and it's not a knife anymore it's a freaking axe. I'm so glad we are moving into knives that will actually cut shit and hold an edge. Have a good night
tldr; youre right that modern steels are better in performance in pretty much every way if heat treated perfectly, but I dont think that accounts for the human Element. And i would also say that simple carbon steels should not be had at high costs. Very well heat treated 1085 in an $18 opinel no.8, perfect. Perfectly heat treated 1095 in a $300 out door knife? no way. Im a long time fan of 1095, and in the world of serious boutique knife makers and metalurgists 1095 isnt that special, but I wouldnt say its known for poor edge retention. like its not tough at all unless its differentilly hardened, and the iron carbides are the least ideal carbides to have in your steel, but the heat treatment proceedure is dead simple (although ignored all the time or done wrong), you can choose to give it a lower temper and have a very very high hardness if its on a kitchen knife and only cutting soft materials for example, and you can sharpen it with the bottom of a coffee mug and a leather belt to pretty high levels of sharpness. i think whats fueling all the skepticism of modern super steels is Heat Treatment. We all know that a simple carbon steel with a good heat treatment is way better than a modern steel with a mediocre heat treatment. I think that alot of other makers without the proper setup are just not achieveing good results because of the lack of the correct equiptment. Affordable Large production run knives are not known to have very good or consistent heat treatments (Or if a certain brand does, it is reflected greatly in the price), and as steels are reaching higher and more complex alloys, the heat treatment proceedures are becoming more tempermental and complex. So the solution is the Super steels are meant for small batch makers who can afford to nail the more complex and percise proceedures bc they dont have to worry about large batches and scaling right? in a perfect world, maybe. But the issue is that knife making is really saturated at the goober level, and alot of hobby level or part time knife makers do not have any intention on investing in the research (which is alot deeper and more fussy than just reading the heat treat proceedure on the datasheet) and equiptment (mainly a $3000 elecrtic furnace) and maybe a hardness tester so you can know yyou have actually dont it correctly, so they simply cannot heat treat higher alloy steels to, in alot of cases, even the same hardness they can 1095 in water or 1084 in parks 50. Hence why alot of the knife making community hangs on to the simple steels. So as far as im concerned, the only reliable way to as a consumer buy a perfectly heat treated blade in a super steel is to buy from a high end boutique maker or *maybe* from a reputable brand, although the cost will be about the same, and high production brands often dont offer bleeding edge steel technology.
Spyderco receives lots of accolades for the quality and consistency of their heat treats. One reason 14C28N is so loved is it’s fairly easy to get quality HTs in large batches.
@@markp4401 I was thinking of Benchmade and Spyderco when i wrote that comment. Usually to know youre gettign a good heat treat in a modern steel youre up in the $150 range for a folder. A notable exception is the SypderCo Tenatious at $55, which i think is miraculiously cheap. Still though ill stand behind what i said, the Opinel no.8 is three times cheaper than that and the blade steel is, in my opinion, 80% of the steel, as well as coming with very nice edge geometry. i would never tell a knife enthusitest to buy an opinel no.8 but if my friends asked me as a 'knife guy' what knife is good i thats what id tell them bc were all cheap lol. simple steels have a place in the world, especially when well heat treated super steels can be beat by a well heat treated simple carbon steel if they are biult with significantly better edge geometry for that particular task.
@@BernieFromTheInternet I appreciate all your comments. Most of us are using our folding knives for light duty stuff so I would say thin blade stock with thinness behind the edge is ideal. That kind of blade benefits from both high edge retention and high toughness because of its thinness.
I like your content but I really recommend backing down a few notches, dont get too into the weeds on minutiae. Its a knife hobby with lots of different steels, grinds, designs etc.
I love your sarcastic ass. Of course you can maintain any knife in the bush if you have a diamond stone or a Worx Sharp field Sharpener. The boys in the bush can't maintain a knife in the bush because they require power to turn on there belt sharpener. Lol
no 1095 isn't the best , it does have characteristics that are better at certain HRC numbers than 10v.... facts , research and data does not lie and is not influenced by personal opinion period.
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I made both splinters and the 1095 one cost $3.5 in steel.
@@TheScrawnyLumberjack that’s so crazy
Lady you really need to use all the steels you are down on or in the end you can can look very foolish but some of us have to learn how to learn and not look like a wise ass that is yet to find out for us that know we know and we cringe hearing someone spew. But you got a good channel I like it a lot I just hope you learn
@@Trish-o2t You sound illiterate, and uneducated. Have a wonderful day and thanks for the view!
Having made knives and being a firmer professional historian I have done both "hands-on" and historical/metallurgical research on the subject over the last 30 years. I have reached several conclusions concerning 1095.
1095 was first a steel designed for industrial applications . As such it was produced in huge quantities. That equaled availability and affordability for the cutlers in the early 20th century. It could be "sold" on the notion that it contained a high percentage of carbon ie .95%, as opposed to the common 1080 of the day. The other elements in its composition are generally beneficial to cutlery but the .95% carbon is not.
In the heat treating processes only about .82% carbon will actually go into solution in an iron matrix. That is to say, will transform into the state necessary to create a proper cutting edge. The rest of the carbon will remain in a larger state and work against blade strength. (In its original applications 1095 was ideal, just so for cutlery)
1095 is almost impossible to truly optimize for cutlery since the quenching requirements are finicky to say the least. The quench rate to optimize requires a teperarure drop of 600 d/f in 2 seconds BUT if a quenching medium is too fast ( water at any temperature for example) there is a large loss rate due to cracking. Too slow, blade softer than optimum. Too fast, the blade cracks. A 2 second window to drop over 600 degrees. This stringent set of limits it is impossible to optimize 1095 in mass production. Not matter what is claimed so called "cryo" treating will not fix this.
A MUCH better solution is to use 80crV2. Which is based in 1080 with additional Chromium and Vanadium and is very easy to heat treat for optimization. It is really the carbon steel analog of the stainless 14C28N.
Thank you so much for sharing all this information and adding to the conversation!
I think a lot of the 1095 brigade misses the point that any argument for it’s qualities over a powder metallurgy steel could be made more strongly for a different carbon steel.
@@nandayane yes
D2 is a carbon steel. Hard for the 1095 crew to show 1095 to be superior to D2. In my opinion, 1095 is not a good representation of carbon steels for a "carbon vs stainless" match up.
@@DianaWimmer-l5i I'm having some bad luck with my 80crv2 heat treating consistently from njsb. Crazy that the 1084 from the sane supplier is easy to consistently treat. I can follow the same recipe and get anything from 53 to 58 hrc post tempering. I've decided to stick with 5160 as my thicker blade stock steel and 15n20 for my .155 blade stock knives until I figure out this 80crv2. I just can't seem to grasp it. Oven or forge...doesn't seem to matter...throwing half of it away. I do love it when it turns out right though. I'd love to talk with you about the best suppliers and methods of heat treating it as I do want to continue my 80crv2 journey.
Many seasoned bushcrafters like a carbon steel blade such as 1095 for its ability to start a fire with flint rock. There have been great strides in knife steel development but this does not diminish the capabilities of 1095. If a carbon steel blade suits your needs there is no need to change and you can spend your money on other gear. I like 1095 cuz it is cheap. If you wish to spend big bucks on basic steels with big brand names that is your choice. No one seems to blink at a $2000 cell phone of which most people will only use 2% of its capabilities and these same people will buy a $500 knife to cut cardboard boxes down for recycling. Marketing is everywhere and is very sophisticated in how they part you with your money. Ask yourself "why" before you ask "what if?" to every possible survival situation under the sun. I did not know Work Sharp made chew toys for dogs but I bet his teeth can now cut paper towels.
Thanks for watching and commenting!!!
Why smash up the spine of your knife? If you’re carrying a rock to strike sparks with, why not just also carry a dedicated striker? Also, for this type of fire making you’re probably gonna have to carry around char cloth as well…all the more reason you can just add a striker to your rock and stash of char cloth. I’d rather have a aebl/14c knife which is more tough, supports a finer edge and is stain resistant while still being about as easy to sharpen and couple that with a striker. Also, learn to make a bow drill fire and or other primitive means..on top of modern methods such as an ol reliable bic
@@ShoahBiz -Yes why carry char cloth , punish your knife, and train yourself with fire making skills when you could just carry a Bic? You do so cuz you may need these skills in an emergency. The odds of needing these skills are remote. Sort of like carrying a $500 knife instead of a SAK. If you can justify your carry to yourself you do not need to justify it to anyone else. All I am saying is that 1095 may be all the blade you need and it is far from bad steel. Cowboy boots and 1095 will always have a following for reasons that are not always obvious to everyone.
@@kevola5739 you missed the whole point. If you’re going to carry around some flint/chert or whatever plus some char cloth, presumably in a tin, why not also just carry a dedicated striker? It’s not really adding much to the overall packages footprint and then you don’t have to beat the hell out of the spine of your knife and sacrifice using higher alloy steels. Having a belt knife that can throw sparks by itself doesn’t mean you’ll get fire easily. You need a sufficiently hard stone and something to catch the spark..typically something you have to make beforehand.
@@ShoahBiz - I agree. This is why it is used as an option, not the main source for fire. It is why someone such as Dave Canterbury prefers carbon steel blades to give him options. It would not be my option since I do not have the skill even with a striker. Give me a Bic any day.
As long as it does what i want, i could care less the steel
Thanks for sharing how you feel!
Larrin Thomas has said many times that edge geometry is more important than any other factor.
I am aware
He also said that specific steel characteristics support acute geometry better. Generally something that can be taken to high hardness and remain tough will take a thin geometry better. 1095 isn’t particularly tough at high hardness.
A toughness value isn’t the whole story, materials have something called stress strain curve. toughness is load it takes to deform then fracture the material. Harder materials take more energy to deform and less to fracture, even if you have a tough material, if the hardness is low you can’t get thin geometry because the apex deform before it’s anywhere near fracturing.
@@nandayane yep!
My daughter once chipped the hell out of my Spyderco Mannix 2 S110v by opening her tin piggy-bank with it.
I sharpened out the chips and put a new edge on just by using a Spyderco Sharpmaker.
I like Carbon steels too because they strop up so easily and I like traditional knifes with patina.
You're right geometry is so important.
@@pauljosephbuggle3722 you know it!
Not sure about all the fuss over steels. I have knives of many different steels some better than others but never had an issue with any of them. If you’re using your knives properly for the job they’re intended for they will last. Some stay sharper longer some have more of a tendency to rust but again from my cheap knives to more expensive never had one fall apart, break a blade etc. many times your paying extra money just for the hailed steel but you can do with less and save some cash….
Thanks for watching and commenting! 🎉
If Larrin isn't god, then how did he create an indestructible wonder steel?
Your rant actually got me as a subscriber to your channel.
I have got knives in all of the cheap steels, from when super steels weren't made, but most of the ones that haven't failed have been CS knives because of blade geo and a quality heat treat. I've been told you can't sharpen a VG1, carbon V, and 3V on normal stones. Sure you can. It takes a lot of time, but you can do it. So I know everything you have said was true. You and a few others are the only ones I found with the guts to say it. Bravo!
My problems with super steels are the heat treatments most are getting and blade geometry from the big companies. I guess another problem would be the owners not knowing "you can't or shouldn't do that with a knife."
Take Care and Stay Safe.
@@DamianBloodstone hey there ! Thanks for watching and welcome aboard!
What is your take on L6, 8670, and DM1? Sometimes you want extreme toughness on a thin blade. I didn't design the intercostal spaces, they are what they are! Not all knives are designed for cutting.
@@Agouti23 watch my video from last night for insight!
Great video. It is unfortunate that people do not go out and try stuff for themselves. You may remember, I was the 440 and 1095 guy. But that was mostly because that is what I was used to. I then ventured off and tried other steels. I will admit, it has been fun finding what other steels are capable of and or if I personally need the level of performance they provide. Thanks for the continued fun content and original view on things. God bless and have a great day.
It’s so fun to learn! Cheers Stan!!!!🎉
But GEC knives are in 1095, and you loved and advocated them. And they are usually way over $300.
@@ericfogle7064 what are you talking about. All I say is they’re over priced and impossible to get. Love them- but their existence sorta sucks haha
Fair enough Erica. I agree.
I think 1095 is used a lot due the ease of working with, gives decent results, and it's generally inexpensive if you are a new knife maker.
@@Logan2070 thanks for watching and commenting!
@@ericasedc😮
"Stop with the river rock crap" 🤣🤣🤣I love it! Instant classic!
It’s so out of hand
I bring along two Eze-Lap diamond hone&stone (I get the 4 pack, 1200, 600, 400 and 250 grit) @16g each to sharpen any steel I happen to carry. Small, light, effective.
I like to use my Spyderco Chaparral XHP to cut leather over my other knives with super steels, because the thin blade cuts better and seems to lasts longer. Also fits better in hand compared to the larger knives. Also prefer it to my carbon steel leathercraft blades that don't cut long before needing sharpening.
@@hamiltonstax334 thanks for sharing- sounds like a great set!
$26.94USD @ Amazon US
$23.85CAD ($17.34US)@ Amazon CA
Made in the USA
No argument here, but he also says edge geometry is king. However, since my knives see light use I have come to the conclusion that "FOR ME" steel makes no difference. I like Case knives and care not whether it's 1095 or 420hc.
Cheers!🎉
Steel choice impacts what type of geometry you can hold.
Great video Erica! I do remember Larry also saying the geometry is more important than the steel and hardness.
Yes!🎉
Some people don’t want to believe that their favorite thing isn’t great anymore. Technology changes. There’s a reason everyone has an iPhone or android and nobody has a rotary phone. There’s also a reason why we should probably leave old steels behind. I don’t hear anybody saying steel is unnecessary because their ancestor used bronze and that was enough for them.
@@Cam._S yup. People sometimes hate change
I've noticed this love affair with 1095 is also tied to a particular knife company known for their ever famous heat treatment. It never seems to dawn on them that the reason so many knives are made in 1095 is because the steel is inexpensive and easy on their equipment. I'm not bashing 1095. It has its place, but please, just stop glorifying it as the end all be all.
Personal experience has a lot to do with steel preferences. Three of my favorite knives are S30V. They are my heavy users. The steel takes a keen edge, are easy to maintain, and I don't have to worry about rust. So yea, because of this experience, I like S30V. The reality is all three knives have really good geometry and are well made. If the steel was say M4 instead of S30V I'd probably be big on M4. Like you said, knife geometry matters way more than which steel it's made out of. I'm convinced the large variety of steel choices for knife makers has more to do with marketing and hype than differences in performance.
I know exactly what you’re referring to!!!!
Esee makes a strong 1095 knife. For the cost, it’s a decent package. They lose a shaving edge sitting in their sheaths though. That corrosion/retention thing is real.
I can’t wait for the Architect Knives in Magnacut to come back in stock.
@@matthewf1979 yes!
The issue with Larrin Thomas and all of his scientific testing is that testing in a controlled environment rarely ever correlates to real world use.
I remember when I was looking for an air purifier to get for my room, one brand had all this great marketing on their specifications and all it took was someone using a particle meter in their room to prove that the air purifier at 1/4 the price filtered out more crap out of the air then something at 4x the price.
@@Huero87 yes that’s my point. You need a full spectrum of information. Not JUST one guys results!
She blinded me with science.. I think you have a bunch of great points here. I don't use my knives enough that I think I will ever have to do anything but strop to maintain the edges. I'm currently working on a semi custom knife made of 1095. It's taking me a while to find the angle. I think the manufacturer of the knife did it with shaking hands. I'll get it eventually.... Don't think I'll ever have to sharpen my S90V. Keep the good stuff coming Erica. Appreciate you.
S90V holds a wild edge! I appreciate YOU Tim!❤
All the weekend warriors who are experts in here on Metallurgy. 😂 1095 heat treated correctly is tried and true Period.
@@6firefightin thanks for sharing your uneducated opinion!🥰
@@ericasedc and you know that how? Tell me how I’m uneducated in knife steel. If I was truly uneducated you’d say more than just calling me uneducated. I have plenty experience with making knives. But you’re right I’m uneducated. 🤡
This video reminds me of a knife conversation I got in to at a bar . Where this guy felt super self righteous with his 400$super steel knife lecturing on how we’re back in the dark ages with our high carbon steels. So we did a pocket check lo and behold he had a dull 400$ knife with a broken tip we had two shaving sharp high carbon steel. The best way to care for an edge is to rub it regularly with something harder than the steel lessening the need to actually grind it back to sharpness. I’m not here to hate on super steels but there seems to be a brittleness happening with very expensive blades. If you want to see what different steels can endure watch joe x video’s they are destruction test and very revealing about behaviors of different steels.
Thanks for watching and commenting! 🎉
Makes sense to me Miss Erica. I don't have a lot of super steel knives, and the ones I do have are probably old news to the folks on here. Most of my knives are slipjoints, so the 1095 is fine, you dull them and hit the strop and you're good to go again. I am not against new steels, but I'm not gonna pay the money they want for them. Pretty cool information you have, and I enjoy learning about these steels from you. Good job on this video. Have a blessed week. Had to add one more thing, everyone I know carries a guided field sharpener, so you ain't lying lol, I ain't never sharpened my knives on a rock, I carry that field sharpener.
That’s what it boils down to. Money. Which I wish more people would admit!
Who has EVER said that 1095 is the BEST steel? Best for what?... Is it a cheap, durable and easily sharpened steel that works great for survival knives?... Yes it is, hence why it's so popular. There are not "BEST" steel, there are only steels that fulfills a certain purpose.
@@Findecanojojje thanks for watching and commenting!
Great points Erica!! I have so many steels I’d prefer over 1095. To me it’s always seemed like a basic cheap steel, I’d rather pay a bit more for steal that outperforms!
@@nicoledodge7240 USE YOUR K390🤣
This is a really helpful video for me. I almost felt like I was in a college course on knife steels.
I love that. That’s the goal! I was a teacher for many years. I think I find solace in making videos as I did teaching❤
Not sure how I got here, but thanks for showing people there is value in challenging conventional wisdom, using the things you own, and well... touching grass now and then. :)
@@TheBoredITGuy welcome!!!!🥰🥰🥰🥰
Larrin’s articles don’t even say that 1095 is that great, it’s pretty middling in terms of toughness.
I think the spyderco forums are a pretty interesting place to look at the toughness vs wear resistance debate from the perspective of actual users.
There is this thread on salt water steels comparing H2, LC200N, and Magna-cut an observation that emerged is that a lot of people preferred LC200N to magna-cut despite it having better fine edge holding because it chipped more easily than LC200N when cutting very rocky and sandy dirty materials or scraping off barnacles. The hands down favorite for many folks there however is serrated H1/H2, despite it looking pitiful on Larrin’s chart. TDLR, there is a reason why spyderco does salt water knives with steels that have a spectrum of edge retention.
@@nandayane 💫💫💫
1095 is like a old square body truck. One of the best at the time, and still some wonderful examples out there. But at the end of the day still old. You have to know there is going to be some maintenance involved in owning one. New steels are like a newer truck, better in many ways, less maintenance with more conveniences. Both can break, but one is more reliable. At the end of the day both will probably get the keyboard experts where they are going. Just my opinion.
Thanks for sharing!
Priced accordingly is fair. I can't tell any difference in actual use to be honest, a good knife is a good knife to me. I like simple steels because they take a wicked edge quickly and strop up great. Whatever to each their own.
Outdoors55 has great videos of using different steels and literally all of them cutting paper exactly the same after. It's marketing hype. I tried after because it was heartbreaking and my tests showed the same thing, it's all geometry and a bit about hardness.
@@jusme8060 thanks for sharing your opinion!
My opinion, 1095 is a great steel for a knife maker to work their practice crafts, it can be made and worked with easily. Its not really a great steel in the end for the consumer though in the age of supersteels. I started making some basic drop points with a variety of polished wood handles secured with brass or nickel pins and have been giving them out as gifts to some family members and I am primarily able to do this because of the cheapness of 1095 steel itself and the ease of working with those easily machined materials, because believe me I've messed up quite a few ideas so for now until I learn more and develop a skill I will continue to be producing these test blades in 1095 especially in this economy. 😅
I like my Vanax stuff a little better than Magnacut. Haven't had corrosion problems on my Elmax or S35vn blades in humid environments so hyper corrosion resistance offered by super steels seems almost exclusively like an ocean diver tool which is a pretty limited amount of people that would need a blade made of such a material...
I hear you!!!!
More later, but for all of you newbies to the knife world take Dr. Thomas's word. He actually knows.
I think one of the problems is people with such poor information literacy that they think Dr. Thomas' site shows 1095 is better.
Your mom knows
I don't always agree with you, but I thoroughly enjoy your content and I love your enthusiasm. Keep up the good work!
@@crypto118 thanks!
Our fathers and grandfathers carried fixed blades and slipjoint pocket knives with 1055-1095 steel and got everything done that needed getting done and is affordable. 1095 is the goat of knife steels period. It holds a decent edge, is tuff and easy to sharpen. The stainless ability of steels is irrelevant to me. I dont mind getting a patina on my blades.
@@WoodsmanHobo777 thanks for sharing!
Your grandfathers 40th grandfather used bronze and it worked for him… you gonna use that?
Agree 1095 is classic for sure, but wont be hanging with most steels, even AEB-L. Theres really no reason to keep using it unless the product requires a patina and some folks love patina as do i, but if im honest, 420HC is still even a step above 1095. At least on paper.
@@thaknobodi absolutely!!!!
Bad storm knocked out my electricity and internet for five days. Just got everything restored today, and it was great to see a video from you👍Cheers, E!
I was wondering where you were man!!! Glad you’re ok!!!!
This video is awesome! I'm really glad that you made it. Now people can see that it's not impossible to sharpen supersteel in the field. I'm so tired of the river rock. What if brigade.
It actually hilarious at this point
I find it funny that not to long ago you made videos talking about issues with the way people acted in the knife community towards others. You made videos talking about bullying in the community. Then here we are months later and look at how you’re presenting yourself and your opinions towards others in the community that have different preferences or different beliefs. Look at how your responses to comments are that don’t perfectly align with your own beliefs. Being condescending telling them thanks for being uneducated or your momma type of responses sure doesn’t align with a very good community. Seems as if you’re dividing people more than you are proving any steel argument. You may want to take a step back, take a look in the mirror. I’m sure I’ll probably also get a rude reply from this comment as well but it’s worth it if by some slim chance it makes you look at how you’re acting towards the community. Watching your channel has become like watching politics. If you have to bash others opinions or preferences in order to promote your preference or beliefs that says more about you than any steel.
@@andrewlasure7828 thank you for your advice- I’ll take it!🥰
thanks for spending your time explaining things in way thats easy for me to understand its definitely helping me with whats what in the knife community and the reason behind why someone would want a super steel over a simple steel but for me i choose cost and the time it takes to sharpen its probably garbage to most but i luv 420hc because the knives its used in are almost always made in the US and there almost always very affordable also its tough, it gets sharp quickly and it has high corrosion resistance sure it doesn't hold an edge long but thats the tradeoff i chose over edge retention i lost my pocket sharpener one time and stroped it on a piece of wood which got it just sharp enough to cut what i was cutting at the time
@@CoBro22 thanks for watching and commenting!
I use a cheep pocket knife or two (letter openers).
My 1095's and similar stay sharp, don't chip, and are magical (because I hardly ever USE them).
Good topic and heart felt emotion presenting it. Take care as always.
Haha!!! Cheers Mike!
You're like the Mythbuster of the knife industry, right on! 😁👍 Keep up the great work and don't let the haters get you down. You do great work and give great advice. 👍 Thanks for sharing, take care and Cheers!
I’m determined!!! Thanks for watching ST! 🎉
I love all steel because I love iron. But the truth is that 1095 can be bought for a very good price and the knife made from it can be sold very expensively. It is therefore not surprising that it is popular with manufacturers. But! I think that nowadays, we knife enthusiasts should get something better than the 1095 for our money.
Absolutely!
I appreciate what I think was the core of the argument. It seemed that it was less about the peeformance of 1095 v. Super steels, and more about holding manufacturers accountable for value v. Pricing (i.e. don't charge super steel prices for high carbon performance).
@@bheart4954 YES. You actually got it!!!!!!!!!!! Haha awesome. Thanks for watching
How does Super Steel stand up in winter when it's minus 40 below Celsius. Canada
@@James-ke5sx just like anything else. Fine. 🤣
Brittle
It’s literal therapy for my brain when i have your rant videos playing in the background lol, not sure why that is
Ok that’s really endearing actually😂😊❤
In every single way there are better steels even for the same pricepoint. Using 1095 these days is a leak of will to do better.
YES🎉🎉🎉
1095 may well not be the best steel in the world ,BUT 1095 blades have never let me down and have done everything I need from them in whatever environment I have found myself over the years and I have been in some strange places far away from civilization . They perform well are easy to maintain and I don't need a second mortgage to be able to afford them The price difference between a 1095 blade and a new "super steel blade can range from $150 t0 $350 minimum depending on make, which is great if you have enough money to afford these things ,mine are tried and tested over years and I love them just as they are .I can't afford the new super steel blades they are simply too expensive to bother with ,I know what 1095 can do I trust it and the makers who make their blades from it and that is what matters to me in the end . I have no doubt that there are superb blades out there made from all kinds of different steel and I am also sure you are recommending great knives and great steels ,but I don't need the latest steel or the the worlds finest most expensive steel ,I need one that gets the job done in all situations that won't let me down and I have that already .
@@richardskinner4198 thanks for sharing!
What do you think of ESEE and TOPS, most of whose knives are made of 1095 steel and are quite expensive ?
I have seen 1095 blades completely twisted in the trunks during batoning : they resisted and became straight again.
Not sure that all super-steels would have done the same...
They aren't worth the money tbh.
Ok then go watch a blade sports champion bend 4V like a twig and it goes right back . Those companies are over priced and ride on marketing. I like ESEE more than Tops but they are both guilty of selling $30 knives for $119
@@ericasedc
Thank you Erica for your kind response.
I love your work and your honesty.
I think you are Christian.
So I also thank you for your testimony.
Thank you to exist !
@@o.k.corral thank YOU for the support!
@@ericasedc
🤗💙
1095 is just a legacy steel that’s only suitable for old/traditional style knives. It was surpassed by so many other steels long ago. RIP. Great video as always.
I absolutely agree.
Ok, bear with me 'cause it's a long one here. I actually think we agree more than we dont, but my views are pretty nuanced and often harder to get across in detail in a comment section. I agree with everything you said, up until about the 10 min mark. So would Larrin, too. And I agree that use has to inform your perception at a certain point. Looking at specs on paper will not inform real world use. Fortunately I have a lot of that under my belt, too. I will also say up front: if I had my druthers, 1095 would not be my first choice of steel, but it's *fine*. I'm also A-OK with Magnacut. It is one of a handful or so of "super steels" that I'd be confident in using harder outdoors, along with the likes of 3v, cruwear, and even on up to 4v and the like. Basically the bigger the knife and the more force that will be applied to it, or the thinner the geometry I want ro run, the tougher I want the steel.
Here's where we disagree: although geometry is king and can really compensate for a ton, you will hit a point where fattening geometry to compensate for lack of toughness really isn't practical anymore. Where the toughness of a steel really shines is in its ability to hold comparatively thin edges with less failure. So you can run a knife to low edge angles that perform very nicely rather than having to overcome the more brittle steel comps by fattening geometry to the point that it doesn't cut, carve, or chop as well as you'd like. The very tough basic carbons with fine microstructure (1084, 5160, 52100, etc) along with the AEB-L family stainless steels do very well at low edge angles or high force. There's a reason you dont see steels like maxamet or even M390 used in razors, kitchen cutlery, and axes. Carving knives are a good example, too. It would be rather laughable to put a thin scandi zero grind on S110V. These steels are just not tough enough to stand up to extreme force or to hold very thin geometry without failing or getting chippy.
I think we also have different ideas about what encompasses field maintenance. You'll be able to hone just sbout anything on ceramic just fine. But, sometimes you drop your knife on some rocks and get some chipping. This has happened to me. I LOVE a steel like 14C28N because when things like that happen, the damage tends to be minimal compared to more brittle steels. I have run into staples in boxes with that steel and sharpened out some small but noticeable chips in less than 10 mins. On the other hand, I've grown to hate M390/20CV more than perhaps any other steel I've used because it experiences edge failure and chipping very easily and it's a lot harder to sharpen out. And I use a DC4 stone with diamonds. I've used them so much that I've gone through 3 or 4 of them over the years.
That would actually be a good experiment to try on the channel. Have a maker get you the same knife in say, AEB-L and M390, in the same thinner geometry (decently thin BTE with a bevel of 17° or even less). Smack the edge on the same brick, note the damage, and then sharpen it out on a field stone and see how it goes.
Part of my point in asking what "super steel" is in the comment on your last vid is to start shedding light on the fact that it isnt really anything too specific. It's more of a general marketing term than anything else. The steels eveyone considers "super steels" vary a ton in their properties. Some are great for outdoor use, some not so much. And there isnt anything wrong with basic carbons. Some are also better than others, and they absolutely do still have their place and offer advantages over even a majority of "super steels" in specific uses.
Lastly, dont trust makers TOO much. They can spout BS just like anyone else, and sometimes have a motive to do so.
Thanks for sharing your opinion and commenting!🎉
Gabe from The Home Slice, actually did a test of the “sharpen it with a rock “ myth with several different steels, he also did an edge retention test against either chopping or batoning with the same steels. I think High hardness Nitro V, CPM-Magna-cut, and 10V came out as winners. Check him out though, he’s the dual grit edge guy and does lots of interesting stuff.
@@nandayane to be clear, when I say "field stone," I mean something like the Fallkniven DC4 I carry. A small, packable/pocketable sharpening stone you take into the field. Not a natural rock you just find somewhere. Edge damage sucks to sharpen out no matter what, but it sucks way more when you have a 4-5in belt knife (or bigger) that you're trying to sharpen on such a small stone. It has been my direct experience that a lot of the simple carbons and other fine microstructure steels like that AEB-L/Sandvik family tend to suffer less damage in general, it is easier to sharpen that damage out, and it is easier to sharpen them to very keen, scary sharp edges. The absence of hard carbides that give most "super steels" their higher edge retention generally makes these tougher steels and easier to sharpen. Interestingly, I have also experienced higher hardness in these steels being easier to sharpen, but it makes sense as they still aren't that hard to abrade and are just easier to de-burr. AEB-L and 14C28N are two of my all-time favorite steels not just for outdoor stuff, but in general, for these reasons and for their ability to support super low geometries well.
I gave those Home Slice videos a quick look and skimmed the tests you're referencing. Nitro V is a similar Sandvik family steel, so I guess I'm not too surprised. It does mirror my experience. To be critical though, we just got done talking a ton about how geometry influences performance, and he isn't controlling for it at all. So his results are extremely observational and maybe not all that trustworthy in the end. It is easier for thinner knives to score lower on Bess scales, for instance. This is why I suggested getting the same knife in different steels in the post above. Something like the Spyderco Mule series is perfect. I'm more interested in seeing an edge damage by steel comparison, and then sharpening it out on DC4 vid. I have gotten steels like 14C28N, 1084, and 80CRV2 paper towel slicing sharp on nothing but a DC4 and CC4 field stone progression. Magnacut may not be too bad, but I really haven't had to do it yet. I have a harder time on stuff like 3V, and harder still the more you go up in carbide content. Again, fuck M390. But it's probably still possible with more time and patience. That's the thing though. These "simpler" steels have some benefits and have their place.
Larin Thomas is not God but he knows steel better than anyone else on TH-cam!!!!!
@@rawdog5506 BAHAHAHAHAHAHAA
@@ericasedc Your ignorant enjoy!!!
Now you've done it. Lol. I like learning about steels but I don't mind to sharpen more if the steel needs it. Great job with the video!
@@BryansKnivesKy thanks so much man!
Lol, who in their right mind believes 1095 would out perform 10v
I swear two guys on my last video argued me to DEATH.
This video is so interesting ! I really like , how you take in your experience !!!
Greets from Munich, Germany ;-)
@@TheSubfotant thanks so much! Welcome!
Could you glue a piece of leather on the side of that sharpener to make a miniatute strop?
Totally🎉
Rex 121 wouldn't cut anything after it rusted to the point that it could not be shared. One week at sea will do that. H2, tungsten, and ceramic will clean a fish or cut a line. If it gets dull or breaks, whip out a spare. Do your sharing at home.
No one would bring it to the ocean😂 what are you even talking about haha
@@ericasedc Fishing for Tuna. Knives stay on the boat in a very salty atmosphere.
@@marccohen5579 no one is fishing for tuna with REX121.
@@ericasedc No, but when one goes fishing or sailing for a week, you need a knife that will stay sharp and not rust out. I have some Vanix, Magnacut and LN200 folders, but I need large fixed blades. My opinion is rusty or dull H2 steel. My answer is to carry many low-retention, high-correction-resistant knives.
I think you missed out on a couple of points. I'm a hobby knife maker and I should say I do not sell any of them. I also do not have the capability to heat super steels nor do I want to make that investment. So, if I did sell my knives I'd be pretty pissed about anyone saying my (80CRV2) simple steel knives are inferior and I'd be defending that steel to everyone. The people who invested their hard earned money in my knives (hypothetically) would also now be defending their choice as that's human nature. It's not that I think my knives are better in any way to the performance of super steels, but they are better to me because I made them. Everyone wants to defend their choice and every backyard knife maker wants to defend the easier to heat treat steels. Great video and I thought you put your case across well.
I think you missed the point I was getting across. It had nothing to do with anyone’s backyard 1095/80CRV2 knives😂 But thanks so much for watching and commenting. I appreciate it!
@@ericasedc I didn't, I merely explained my point poorly but never mind.
@@Mark--Todd I guess we both misunderstood each other then! Thanks for watching and sharing your thoughts- I do appreciate it.
Yes I totally agree, Im so sick of hearing about 1095 is a bare min steel and has NOTHING for super steels…..
Thanks for stopping by!
Cool videos, i love the longer vids too . And great closing comment on the videos
@@powerai thank you so much for the support!!!!
1095 is a good base budget steel, but its not particularly tough for a high carbon steel. Some guys seem to be under the impression that ALL carbon steels are high toughness, and thats simply inaccurate. Good video!
Yes. Like it’s a blanket fact when it’s not. Thanks for watching and commenting!
I’ve been in the knife game for a long time, and every year there’s some new supersteel everybody chases for a lil while. Then after awhile there’s a new supersteel and a lot of people discount last year’s supersteel as inferior. I’ve got em all, and 1095 still just works and takes a nice edge fast. I prefer an easier sharpening steel for field use. It’s not that you “can’t maintain it” it’s that it doesn’t come back as fast. Every steel dulls out eventually. Higher hardness edges microchip faster so you have to remove more material rather than realign edges. Yeah, 1095 doesn’t hold an edge as long, but I’ve never had a 1095 blade I own fail on me. I have had “supersteel” knives break and bend. I think a lot of that is due to heat treat. The old steels have been perfected over time and the new are still being experimented with. (I don’t like to microbevel my edges and mess up the grind) I use diamond and ceramics. The only real difference in use, is that you spent $100 more for Magnacut
Always tickles me when a person calls BS on the willfully ignorant… ever so gently! Personally, I noticed on a scale from 1-10 for the 3 criteria… edge retention, toughness, and corrosion resistance…. 5’s for each is not a easy find. Something is always missing. For me, corrosion resistance is a biggie because cutting food is a huge part of what I ask of my EDC. Low #’s on corrosion resistance for any steel or super steel makes it suck! 1095 is one of them. Entertaining vid little sis!😊
Thanks so much for watching!!! I appreciate you!😊❤
I agree the river rock is BS.
@@markp4401 like literally no one is doing that
Great video! If you lose subs, I'll sub from my other channel 😂. 1095 is not the best even among the simple carbon steels. There are better options such as O1 or A2, but they do not compare with modern steels. We have had an incredible jump in steels in recent years! My field sharpener of choice came free with a SMKW order. It is a diamond sharpemer that opens like a butterfly knife. It has 400 and 100 grit and weighs nothing. With it, I can maintain anything in the field from axes, machetes, fixed blades, and poclet knives in any steel. Who goes in the field without a sharpener of some kind when you need to use a cutting tool? The rock thing is a survival fantasy. The other thing that I wanted to mention is that Larins steel charts are at a lower hardness than what is optimum for most steels. They are at a hardness that large commercial makers use. I mention this because edge retention of many new super steels is greater than what the charts show. The way to figure this stuff out is simply to use a lot of knives and do your own testing. Now with all of that said I can still take one of my O1 or A2 knives on a multi day camping trip and enjoy the heck out of it!
You totally know it K!!!! It’s a very general idea of the steel. Luckily a lot of custom makers are running higher HRC now!🎉
I sharpen with river rocks on the daily
@@richterknives I sharpen with your mom on Monday nights🤣
I agree with what is being said and demonstrated here,good video Erica,thanks for speaking out! Love you..
Love YOU mostest!!!!!❤❤❤❤❤
Clearly the 1095 knife would have been dangerous to use, maybe cut the whole table in half , and then sharpen itself of the air back to atom popping edge.
BAHAHAHHA RIGHT I FORGOT
When you drew the dull blades across your palms my heart stopped for just a second😬
I thought it would be more impactful than trying to cut paper and failing. Attempting to slice your hand open is more thrilling 😮
Great video, lil,homie. Hope all is well in your world. Hope your leather crafting is coming along.
It’s going SO WELL!! Thank you brother!
This right here. Certain big makers will ride 1095 till its wore out with a absolute RIDICULOUS price tag. Theres no reason at all 1095 should be $160+ .
@@codybryant8136 I am seeing them over $300 and I lost it
Looking at you tops. 1095 has a place but it's not in same seat as magnacut or M4 or Cruwear. No reason at all
@@codybryant8136 AGREED
Your “sharpening” test to prove your point is invalid because you didn’t do it in a field.
You’re so right. Crap
Hi Erika. I did some research on steels 12C27, 14C28N and 420. These are stainless and are right behind 1095 in terms of toughness. So why do manufacturers use rusty 1095? After all, everyone should be happy that their jungle knife does not rust.
@@petermartinka9274 thanks for watching!
It's way cheaper.
Omg Slater! The Palm Cut Test!! I love it!! Who needs paper when you got flesh?! Dude I swear you have the patience of a saint, explaining and demonstrating these FACTS for what seems like the 97th time! I love School Teacher Erica!! Like, it's one thing to be ignorant and misinformed about 1095 vs super steels...that's understandable...there's not much real world application test data out there (and it certainly ain't coming from Tops or Esee, etc), but I honestly don't understand why some of these aptly monikered 'Bushcraft Boys' get all defensive about their beloved simple steels (like that condescending, patronizing rude ass lil hoe cake in the comments of your last video ha!). That dumpster fire tard cake seems to be the exception tho...most of these misinformed old timers (like me!) are willing and eager to learn about super steels! I love my GECs, but have no illusions about their (lack of) edge retention. My GEC 21 is DONE after a few days of food prep sessions on a cutting board! I'll grab my Spyderco s110v Manix 2 if I really want to put in WORK! Like, there are 100 year old airplanes still in service that remain functional, but I'll be taking my flights on a modern jet, thank you very much!! Love these educational videos!! Btw, just how in the heck is your skin so flawless?!? You are literally glowing! My old ass is jealous!! You look positively radiant!! 🌞🌜💫 🥰. I need to get on one of those rainstorm face wash skincare programs immediately!! 💦😂. Sorry for the length of this!! (I say that to your Mom all the time!!) Yet another fantastic video, Erica!!! 🧡
You are too much Jesse!!!! We love you!!!!!❤
I love the airplane comparison 🤣
1095 is a usable steel for knives (assuming it is well hardened), but it is at the lower end of the scale of steels suitable for knives. 1095 does not have a single special feature that would put the steel in a higher position. Personally, I would prefer a tool steel over a carbon steel, for example, the simple A2 is clearly superior to 1095, not to mention powder steels, which are in a completely different league.
@@achimgeist5185 totally man
Sorry to burst the bubble, but 1095 has done way more in the world than all the other super duper steels ever will!
And besides it's my Grandad's knife!
@@knifelore1647 we now know who smoked too much tonight🤣
@@knifelore1647 With this "argument" you can also go back to the Stone Age, even the descendants of the Homo Sapiens were already using stone tools 2.5 million years ago.
@@ericasedc was some good stuff too!😎
Thanks E, just received my first CR small 31 in Magnacut. Thanks for your videos an help...
Do you love it?!
@@ericasedc Oh my, YES! and I'm going to use it !
No up/down blade play, next goodguy clip
Just tested again, having a hell of a time telling a differnce between 52100, and cpm4v. Both stopped shaving at the same point and both stopped reliably cutting pad at the same number of passes. ive been alternating between cutting carpet pad, cicil rope, and paper and its taking forever. Both are struggling with the pad and rope but still cut it and both still easily slice paper. In real life i would just sharpen both because they arent at the level of sharpness i like. Now i decided to strop both and the 52100 was quickly back to shaving hairs and the 4v wouldnt strop back to shaving sharp and id have to take it to a diamond stone....heck of a time telling any noticeable difference and only one takes a shaving sharp edge again with a few swipes on a strop....Id love to see you perform some tests erica to see what you think. I really dont want this to be true because i have a closet full of knives but honestly, i cant tell any difference in actual use.
@@jusme8060 see I find them to be VERY DIFFERENT. Where are they from and hardness?!
@@ericasedc one is deep cuts cutlery, I'm sure very high hrc and one it wachtman knife and tool that I thinned out to be of similar thickness on the 2x72
The 52100 is probably of average hrc. Either way it's 52100 ya know?
@@jusme8060 that makes no sense. What’s the HRC on the 4?
@@jusme8060 that is not normal!!!
could u list steels that are in the same category as 1095 ? Would you put O1 & A2 steels in the "outdated steel " box ??
@@kurts4867 O1 and 1095 are the same thing. A2 can be good if treated at like 63/64 HRC. 80CRV2 is only good above 62HRC. Not a fan of 52100 unless it’s over 63.5 HRC. 1075 is trash. 8650 is decent if done properly.
@@ericasedc thank u. Was (emphasis was..) looking at a nice looking, well made bushcraft knife in O1 but asking $260 bucks for it ??!!! Sounds overpriced after listening to you... It's the hardness and heat treat then ??
@@kurts4867 yikes that’s a lot. And yes definitely
O1 is different than 1095. The former is lightly alloyed to be much more easily hardenable and to have a higher working hardness than plain carbon steel. The much slower quench required to fully harden even much thicker sections of O1 will result in less warpage. A2 is another step up in that regard, and D2 even more. Very important for swords and slender parts. I've used all of them to make punches, chisels and tooling for blacksmithing that kick ass and cut mild steel every day.
I work(ed) for an industrial heat treating company for years. I still do manual heat treating for them, such as a 3000 axe head production run. Each one quenched and tempered by me with my trusty giant 316ss tongs.
Erica. When will you get an Umnumzaan ??!! Have you reviewed one. Curious as too your thoughts on it.
@@SolidMango-gh3jk never. Way too large for me!!!
@@ericasedc I too too big hopefully I don’t mind it and just like for my collection. I figured you would do a review anyways for your own sake and ours for we all appreciate and respect your skill at it. Especially pertaining to such an iconic “grail” knife. Maybe you could borrow one and do. Maybe help the mass convince CRK to make a mini or small version Zaan. Would be perfect! I would love to hear your thoughts on it and would sure get your views up from. I too only like carrying the small. Plus your thoughts on it would help influence totally for like minded. Which is why I love your channel. You rock. Hope you do more soon! Be well!
Such a fun video Erica! Some good points too 👏
Thank you so much J!!!🎉❤
I’ve been carrying my Benchmade mini adira for my summer knife and it is in magnacut and I’ve been using little work Sharp system that I have in my truck and I can get it hair splitting sharp on the go….I don’t buy some of the nonsense people spew….You can use super steals on the go👍🏻Awesome video btw🙂
That’s so awesome to hear!!!!🎉
And that is the crux, the ridiculous pricing of some basic carbon steel knives. Someone mentioned GEC, and they are egregious, but what about Tops?!?! The prices they charge are just onerous. Even Esee, charges way too much. I get that they seem to offer great service and warranty, but you pay for that….actually you overpay for that. I’d much rather choose a quality knife in 3V or Cruwear with minimal warranty. Those most likely wouldn’t ever need a warranty. But it’s not just 1095, look at what Winkler charges for 80CRV2!!!! For that money, you could get an equivalent knife design from Carothers in Delta 3V and it’s multiple times better for similar costs. At least KaBar prices their 1095 knives appropriately.
Exactly the steel is fine for what it is the problem (as always ) is the people who price it.
I COMPLETELY agree. The overpriced stuff blows my mind!!!!!! I can get super steel which is way better for the same price or a hair more.
That what I am talking about. GEC brand should be like a 20 dollar knife nowhere near 200 dollars.
Ok GEC is the WORST
In terms of being over priced
With Gec you pay for craftsmanship and you can't buy that today for 20$. They should be around 100$ the problem is that some Gec dealers are shameless not to mention the ebay flippers.
@@אלכסס-ח5ג 💯 ..if someone can make anything close for 20 bucks in the states ...sign me up for 2. I
Dont know how people think things get made. Even if you have 5 bucks worth of steel...that 5 dollars grows rapidly during the processes of making a knife...even if it's just stock removal on those 10's of thousands of dollars worth of machines. There is clearly a lack of understanding and its becoming a pandemic. Don't even mention the hours it took to make it...I'm sure that should be free too 😆
Good evening Ms E. Wonderful times we live in. Lots of choices out there in our guns and knives....take care. See ya next time.🇺🇲🌲🔥🔪
See you next time J!❤🎉
Am I the only one who knows 1095 from a sword maker's perspective?
What I first learned about it 1095 is that its a harder high carbon steel. It excels at edge retention but struggles at toughness. It will chip and shatter with hard use but will almost always retain its shape because its so rigid. For this reason the recommend it for short swords and daggers. If you use it for a long sword the torsion and impact vibrations will cause micro cracks to form and it will inevitably shatter with extended use. So the steel has its benefits, namely how long it can hold an edge compared to other high carbon steels but it comes with the significant drawback of breaking instead of bending.
Atleast in weapon smithing you will see 1095 commonly as a budget short sword, and spear heads, stuff that is small, thin and needs to hold an edge longterm. 1045 is what they use for budget tomahawks, maces and cleaver style blades that rely on mass abd geometry to cut rather than edge retention. 1060 is what they use for budget Longswords, Great Swords, Nodachi and competition cutter swords, anything that needs a more even mix or rigidity and toughness.
1095 makes sense in knife form but when compared to stainless steels it loses out on the edge retention and corrosion resistance. As a sword steel its brittle but as a knife steel its above average in toughness. It has its uses but as a knife stainless steels outperform it in all the areas that matter most, namely edge retention. You won't need a river rock if the edge holds all weekend because the steel composition, tempering and geometry allow it to stay sharper for longer.
Yeah we were talking about knives for like, using. Not swords. That’s why it wasn’t part of the conversation. Thanks for sharing your thoughts!
@@ericasedc 1095 is tough for a knife but brittle for a sword was all I wanted to convey in my long winded post. Thanks for reading through it and making this video.
@@SeemsLogical thank YOU for watching!!!♥️
You can’t beat a good spring steels for swords and things longer than around 12”. (In my opinion)
I sharpen Magnacut on my Worksharp field sharpener all the time. The only steel that has ever given me trouble on that sharpener is M390 but to be fair, that was a Microtech, which is batshit soft. I did sharpen my grandpa's old knife on a rock once in 2010 when I was an idiot, didn't carry proper gear, and didn't know that pocket sharpeners existed and I got lost with nothing but my bow, my grandpa's knife, a lighter, and a water bottle. I don't ever want to do that shit again
You know the deal Z!!!!! Appreciate you brother
@@ericasedc because I've lived that survival situation that the "what if" squad talks about. It's not as fucking easy as they claim. It took me an hour to get an edge that would featherstick on that knife using a rock and we're talking about an ancient Western L39 which is made of some mystery carbon steel. 1075 if I had to guess based on how it performs
@@dualsportoutdoors I totally hear you
if 1095 is good steel for shears and impact and mold injections and toughness and marine environment then they would be in factories and machines and on boats and same for knife usage way better steels these days pay for what the steel is worth
LMAO... you are too much! I so love the passion... I feel it. Even the Doc says that geometry is more important... watch his video with CJ Buck from Buck knives... and he confirms so much of what you said here.
I am extremely passionate about all this!!!❤
@@ericasedc I totally get it!! I often “give companies I like grief about things like this because I care and am passionate about it also… thanks for doing what you do!!!
@@chrisreuther4546 thank YOU for supporting the channel!
Agreed, my bk16 is my only 1095. 1095 isn't that tough, like really. 10v has a better toughness rating on KSNerds while being more stain resistant and a ton more edge retention. Not even a top 20 steel imo
@@jtallday31 YEP!!!!
I thoroughly enjoyed that!
@@apico YAY!
I don't quite get the fascination with stainless steels. Clean your blades and get on with life. I don't like 1095...but by gawd I'll take 15n20 (not related to 14c28n) 😂...all day over a s--v . To each their own. In my world I'll take a good machete ...from Walmart. 😮...a 15n20 "bushcraft" knife....and a Rex45 pm2....EVERYDAY. Say it with me....EVERYDAYYYYYYYY! 😅
Love REX45🎉
@@ericasedc is somebody actually saying 1095 is better than s110v ? There are some carbon steels that I love love love. Talk about outdated. Outpost 76 tested a 420hc Buck 203 (search that 10 dollar knife) and it outperformed everything in his cardboard test. It had nothing to do with the steel type...it just accidentally has God Mode geometry. I'm gonna make my carbon steel knives, but no way I'd advertise that if they were made out of a superior steel that thru wouldn't be better. They also wouldn't be selling for 150 bucks. You know all this I'm sure. 150 dollar 15n20 knife would cost ME 300 to make in k390. There's a time and place for everything. Different customers , different budgets.
People live in different environments and have different use cases. Fast rusting will destroy your apex
@@ShoahBiz I get that. You'd think that sk85...that work tuff gear uses would completely turn off people that live on the coast of Florida but yet...there's scab using the crap out of his. A little oil will surprisingly go a long way. Where I live ...the humidity is 98% today and that's pretty much the story all year. I have those challenges. I may use a can of wd40 a year just coating blades. I get the hassle. It's tough work.
Just for the sake of authenticity, I had a knife blade made of Sandvik steel. I was camping in northern Ontario without an axe...it was a family camp ground and I was with my wife and three daughters. We wanted nightly campfires and wood was available (logs, 3-4" in diameter and about 1 1/2 ' long), and no axe meant that I had to use my knife. It worked just fine but it did require sharpening and without a sharpening system, I scrounged the beach for a flat rock. I found one with two layers of stone...one softer and one harder. I used this stone to return some semblance of sharp to my knife. I was quite pleased with myself and have that stone still to this day...thirty years later. 🤷♂️
@@blueeyeswhitedragon9839 thank you for sharing!!! Very cool!
I think one reason they don't or can't use a ceramic rod is because you have these companies putting a 30 degree edge on them😂 then you micro bevel and it's not a knife anymore it's a freaking axe. I'm so glad we are moving into knives that will actually cut shit and hold an edge. Have a good night
Hey James! Always great to see you
tldr; youre right that modern steels are better in performance in pretty much every way if heat treated perfectly, but I dont think that accounts for the human Element.
And i would also say that simple carbon steels should not be had at high costs. Very well heat treated 1085 in an $18 opinel no.8, perfect. Perfectly heat treated 1095 in a $300 out door knife? no way.
Im a long time fan of 1095, and in the world of serious boutique knife makers and metalurgists 1095 isnt that special, but I wouldnt say its known for poor edge retention. like its not tough at all unless its differentilly hardened, and the iron carbides are the least ideal carbides to have in your steel, but the heat treatment proceedure is dead simple (although ignored all the time or done wrong), you can choose to give it a lower temper and have a very very high hardness if its on a kitchen knife and only cutting soft materials for example, and you can sharpen it with the bottom of a coffee mug and a leather belt to pretty high levels of sharpness. i think whats fueling all the skepticism of modern super steels is Heat Treatment. We all know that a simple carbon steel with a good heat treatment is way better than a modern steel with a mediocre heat treatment. I think that alot of other makers without the proper setup are just not achieveing good results because of the lack of the correct equiptment.
Affordable Large production run knives are not known to have very good or consistent heat treatments (Or if a certain brand does, it is reflected greatly in the price), and as steels are reaching higher and more complex alloys, the heat treatment proceedures are becoming more tempermental and complex. So the solution is the Super steels are meant for small batch makers who can afford to nail the more complex and percise proceedures bc they dont have to worry about large batches and scaling right?
in a perfect world, maybe. But the issue is that knife making is really saturated at the goober level, and alot of hobby level or part time knife makers do not have any intention on investing in the research (which is alot deeper and more fussy than just reading the heat treat proceedure on the datasheet) and equiptment (mainly a $3000 elecrtic furnace) and maybe a hardness tester so you can know yyou have actually dont it correctly, so they simply cannot heat treat higher alloy steels to, in alot of cases, even the same hardness they can 1095 in water or 1084 in parks 50. Hence why alot of the knife making community hangs on to the simple steels.
So as far as im concerned, the only reliable way to as a consumer buy a perfectly heat treated blade in a super steel is to buy from a high end boutique maker or *maybe* from a reputable brand, although the cost will be about the same, and high production brands often dont offer bleeding edge steel technology.
Spyderco receives lots of accolades for the quality and consistency of their heat treats. One reason 14C28N is so loved is it’s fairly easy to get quality HTs in large batches.
Interestingly Spyderco has never used 14C28N to my knowledge.
@@markp4401 I was thinking of Benchmade and Spyderco when i wrote that comment. Usually to know youre gettign a good heat treat in a modern steel youre up in the $150 range for a folder. A notable exception is the SypderCo Tenatious at $55, which i think is miraculiously cheap. Still though ill stand behind what i said, the Opinel no.8 is three times cheaper than that and the blade steel is, in my opinion, 80% of the steel, as well as coming with very nice edge geometry.
i would never tell a knife enthusitest to buy an opinel no.8 but if my friends asked me as a 'knife guy' what knife is good i thats what id tell them bc were all cheap lol. simple steels have a place in the world, especially when well heat treated super steels can be beat by a well heat treated simple carbon steel if they are biult with significantly better edge geometry for that particular task.
@@BernieFromTheInternet I appreciate all your comments. Most of us are using our folding knives for light duty stuff so I would say thin blade stock with thinness behind the edge is ideal. That kind of blade benefits from both high edge retention and high toughness because of its thinness.
I like your content but I really recommend backing down a few notches, dont get too into the weeds on minutiae. Its a knife hobby with lots of different steels, grinds, designs etc.
@@Logan2070 thanks for watching!
I love your sarcastic ass. Of course you can maintain any knife in the bush if you have a diamond stone or a Worx Sharp field Sharpener. The boys in the bush can't maintain a knife in the bush because they require power to turn on there belt sharpener. Lol
I definitely got spicy in this one😂
I love how you challenge the status quo!
Can’t stop won’t stop
I like a nice used patina on my blades. So that says what I prefer
Nice!
3V, 4V, 10V and K390 patina, nice!
@@nandayane exactly🤣 REX45. Etc
@@nandayanealso m4 maxamet
no 1095 isn't the best , it does have characteristics that are better at certain HRC numbers than 10v.... facts , research and data does not lie and is not influenced by personal opinion period.
@@anthonyrollins9825 thanks for sharing your thoughts!
I dont know it cut my salad just fine 😂
And lets face it thats what most of us "normal" city people using our knives for.
Then I’m not talking to you, am I?!😂 This video isn’t about that hahahaha
Thanks so much for watching and commenting 🎉😊
@@ericasedc In my mind you are talking only to me 😛🤪