A pretty good demonstrations with a few notable exceptions. Sheetrock screws are not galvanized and rust, so using them in this situation especially up at the shower arm fitting for support is just wrong. Also, when gluing the PVC drain, I didn't see any purple primer being used. When the drain and valve trim plate were being installed there sure was a lot of debris that should've been removed first. Finally, after setting the base into mortar, place about 40 lbs. on center of it and let it sit overnight. The weight will keep the base from lifting or shifting while the mortar sets.
@@glock316 First I pre-drilled my holes in the shower mounting lip, and then I used #8 x 1-1/4" truss head screws, they were Teks #21512 from Home Depot.
Hi, I know it's 2 years ago but should you screw in the base? My instructions says to screw in the base and supplied the screws for it. I have sand mix all under mine and it's solid. A friend of mine was saying don't put the screws into the base you don't need plus it could add tension and crack. Thanks
I purchased an American Standard kit from HD due to the unique dimensions of the shower alcove. We hired a handyman who had done some other work for us. The job was above his pay grade and he spent 4 times the time needed by a more experienced installer. Additionally, he put the two end pieces in upside down. I texted him and he apologized and said he would fix it without any additional charge. That was the last we heard from him. So, we purchased another 3-piece kit and hired a new, more experienced plumber. The American Standard kit has very flexible (flimsy?) walls. When attaching the two end pieces, the idea was to attach directly to the studs. The problem with this is that there is way too much flex between the shower wall and the studs. Since this kit required caulking at the seams, the flex of the end pieces naturally broke the caulk seal when only moderate pressure was applied. So, now the installer has to come back and we have to find a way to eliminate the flex in the end pieces perhaps by putting foam insulation behind them. There isn't an alternative to the AS kit due to the unique dimensions. The panels are simply too thin and should not bend as they do. The kit sells for $450+/- but should have been built to eliminate the need for caulk or made of stronger material.
If the shower is on an exterior wall, do you need at add wall board behind the enclosure ? Or do you still screw to the stud ? And how thick is that vapor barrier ?
If you buy a Sterling unit at Home Depot, Lowe’s, etc. make sure you inspect it thoroughly before you install it. These units are not packaged very well and 1 out of 3 are usually damaged.
Good content and good advice. With regard to the single handle shower valve, I suggest removing the cartridge from valve body to prevent heat damage to the cartridge when you solder the connections. When you re-install the cartridge, sparingly apply silicone plumbing lubricant to it to make it easier to insert in the valve body. Keeping the cartridge in a plastic bag will prevent it from being contaminated by construction debris.
Why don’t they make the tub lip slant so it won’t hold water? This is a problem for me. I have to use a paint scraper covered by a rag to clean it out. Pink mold grows there.
I am installing the sterling 4 piece 48" shower, do you need to install a 2x4 support block between studs to support the valve and if so how do you determine the distance so that the bonnet comes thru the panel far enough for the trim. the valve is a delta multi choice with plaster ring
It is best to use a 2x8", or some 2-by that is wide enough so that you can mount the shower valve body onto it. I attached my 2x8" to the studs first (like a fireblock) with a few screws - making sure to install it at the same the height of your valve body that you desire. Experts say the valve body is supposed to be mounted between 40"-44", but you can install it anywhere you want. Just remember: your chosen location is going to be permanent, so I recommend placing it as close to the center of your shower base as possible. Then I simply used a couple of more screws to mount the valve body onto the block of wood. Your valve body should have come with a square plastic piece (mine was black) that you temporarily attach to the valve body. Attach that onto the face of your valve body in order to see where you're finished wall is going to be located around the valve body itself.
I would do everything possible to ensure a water tight enclosure, including vapor barrier and sheet rock. anything and everything to stop and slow a leak.
How do you prevent water from getting into the gaps between the panels? I'm looking to replace a moldy shower and don't want to end up with the exact problem on a new one.
I usually caulk the vertical lines with silicone (make sure it's rated for kitchen and bath). The horizontal gaps are usually left uncaulked or caulked as shown in this video.
I agree Blitziel, but I would still use a thin bead of silicone anyway, as an extra security measure. I don't even want a single molecule of water slipping through. 😏
@@Parabellum-X The problem is that over time the caulking can break down or a tear or gap develop from use. Now the lip of the pan is most likely sucking up or holding water instead of letting it freely drain and air out.
Galvanised screws and nails are zinc coated nails that have undergone a galvanisation process. This process means the nails have a protective barrier which makes them resistant to rust and corrosion.
@@brendsjohnson4589 Many zinc coated nails and products are not galvanized, and besides they do rust after several years anyway. Use stainless screws only. QED
Why were copper and solder used, here? Isn't it easier and more cost effective for a homeowner to use PEX? Or at the very least use SharkBite fittings?
Pex and expansion rings are great and very cost effective, but SharkBite fittings are expensive (about 8x the cost of copper sweat fittings) but imo really shouldn't be installed in areas with no access, the plumbing company I work for in NJ won't allow SharkBite to be used for anything except to cap off stub outs, and never concealed inside of a wall. But that being said, I'm sure when properly installed (prepping the pipe/deburring) and strapping/securing the pipes properly, you'll probably be fine with sharkbite lol but lots of people just cut pipes and slide sharkbites onto them and call it a day lol
Most of the tools are pretty common or cheap to buy. The inside cutter is like 10 bucks. The only thing that's expensive is the copper crimpers but you can just solder instead.
I happen to have a press tool available to me. Quite awesome, although, I only need to cap off the old tub sprigot, and extend my shower head up higher, so I'll probably just solder. I don't trust shark-bites inside a wall. I used them in my basement though, where I have acess.
Good lord could this be more f---ing complicated? Is there really no way to install a shower with 80 moving parts and so many points of failure down the road? It's showers like these that create a market for shower replacement kits
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A pretty good demonstrations with a few notable exceptions. Sheetrock screws are not galvanized and rust, so using them in this situation especially up at the shower arm fitting for support is just wrong. Also, when gluing the PVC drain, I didn't see any purple primer being used. When the drain and valve trim plate were being installed there sure was a lot of debris that should've been removed first. Finally, after setting the base into mortar, place about 40 lbs. on center of it and let it sit overnight. The weight will keep the base from lifting or shifting while the mortar sets.
Make a video or shut the fuck up
What screws to use instead of drywall screws ?
@@glock316 First I pre-drilled my holes in the shower mounting lip, and then I used #8 x 1-1/4" truss head screws, they were Teks #21512 from Home Depot.
The purple "primer" is just pipe cleaner. It isn't necessarily needed for new PVC.
But great point about the galvanized screws.
Thanks guys. I've learned more in these comments than 3 video's.
This was nice. Love seeing 'ol Tom Silva. Hope he's doing well these days.
Highly recommend to remove cartridge inside valve before soldiering😮
Not bad
It's very important to use pan head screws because any other type of head on the screws will split the fiberglass when tightened down.
Hi, I know it's 2 years ago but should you screw in the base? My instructions says to screw in the base and supplied the screws for it. I have sand mix all under mine and it's solid. A friend of mine was saying don't put the screws into the base you don't need plus it could add tension and crack. Thanks
I purchased an American Standard kit from HD due to the unique dimensions of the shower alcove. We hired a handyman who had done some other work for us. The job was above his pay grade and he spent 4 times the time needed by a more experienced installer. Additionally, he put the two end pieces in upside down. I texted him and he apologized and said he would fix it without any additional charge. That was the last we heard from him. So, we purchased another 3-piece kit and hired a new, more experienced plumber. The American Standard kit has very flexible (flimsy?) walls. When attaching the two end pieces, the idea was to attach directly to the studs. The problem with this is that there is way too much flex between the shower wall and the studs. Since this kit required caulking at the seams, the flex of the end pieces naturally broke the caulk seal when only moderate pressure was applied. So, now the installer has to come back and we have to find a way to eliminate the flex in the end pieces perhaps by putting foam insulation behind them. There isn't an alternative to the AS kit due to the unique dimensions. The panels are simply too thin and should not bend as they do. The kit sells for $450+/- but should have been built to eliminate the need for caulk or made of stronger material.
If the shower is on an exterior wall, do you need at add wall board behind the enclosure ? Or do you still screw to the stud ? And how thick is that vapor barrier ?
For this model can you install a foldable teak bench or seat. on the wall?
You didn't say anything about when to remove the black plastic housing on the new faucet.. does it stay on or do you remove it at some point?
If you buy a Sterling unit at Home Depot, Lowe’s, etc. make sure you inspect it thoroughly before you install it. These units are not packaged very well and 1 out of 3 are usually damaged.
Is it right to install the plastic over the insulation that has the paper backing on it??
Good content and good advice. With regard to the single handle shower valve, I suggest removing the cartridge from valve body to prevent heat damage to the cartridge when you solder the connections. When you re-install the cartridge, sparingly apply silicone plumbing lubricant to it to make it easier to insert in the valve body. Keeping the cartridge in a plastic bag will prevent it from being contaminated by construction debris.
Perhaps a critical step, how to remove and then install a new drain in the pan.
Why don’t they make the tub lip slant so it won’t hold water? This is a problem for me. I have to use a paint scraper covered by a rag to clean it out. Pink mold grows there.
Because your shower isn’t level
Because the walls sit on that ledge
I am installing the sterling 4 piece 48" shower, do you need to install a 2x4 support block between studs to support the valve and if so how do you determine the distance so that the bonnet comes thru the panel far enough for the trim. the valve is a delta multi choice with plaster ring
It is best to use a 2x8", or some 2-by that is wide enough so that you can mount the shower valve body onto it.
I attached my 2x8" to the studs first (like a fireblock) with a few screws - making sure to install it at the same the height of your valve body that you desire.
Experts
say the valve body is supposed to be mounted between 40"-44", but you can install it anywhere you want. Just remember: your chosen location is going to be permanent, so I recommend placing it as close to the center of your shower base as possible.
Then I simply used a couple of more screws to mount the valve body onto the block of wood.
Your valve body should have come with a square plastic piece (mine was black) that you temporarily attach to the valve body. Attach that onto the face of your valve body in order to see where you're finished wall is going to be located around the valve body itself.
you dont have to put some type cement board or durrock behind the enclosure for mositure? thanks
I would do everything possible to ensure a water tight enclosure, including vapor barrier and sheet rock. anything and everything to stop and slow a leak.
thats what am thinking too. What if the pan cracks. Our shower wall is cracked but it also seems from the 80's@@charliejohnston1978
Good information I need to buy the kit
So there is no need at all for backer board or GoBoard? I can't seem to find an easy answer to this.... thank you!
It depends on the specific model. Some are direct-to-stud, some must be installed over a solid wall.
@Sam Ram Appreciate it. We put some at the top and then painted over it. Looks good... just to be on the safe side I guess. Thx for your reply!
thank you for your answer. am here looking because this direct to stud is scary.@@michaelbluejay
How do you prevent water from getting into the gaps between the panels?
I'm looking to replace a moldy shower and don't want to end up with the exact problem on a new one.
I usually caulk the vertical lines with silicone (make sure it's rated for kitchen and bath). The horizontal gaps are usually left uncaulked or caulked as shown in this video.
Most caulkless surrounds guide the water down to the pan allowing it to drain.
I agree Blitziel, but I would still use a thin bead of silicone anyway, as an extra security measure.
I don't even want a single molecule of water slipping through. 😏
@@Parabellum-X The problem is that over time the caulking can break down or a tear or gap develop from use. Now the lip of the pan is most likely sucking up or holding water instead of letting it freely drain and air out.
@@nova31337so the question is, to caulk or not to caulk?
What kind of screws do I use to install the same shower
Galvanised screws and nails are zinc coated nails that have undergone a galvanisation process. This process means the nails have a protective barrier which makes them resistant to rust and corrosion.
@@brendsjohnson4589 Many zinc coated nails and products are not galvanized, and besides they do rust after several years anyway. Use stainless screws only. QED
Why were copper and solder used, here? Isn't it easier and more cost effective for a homeowner to use PEX? Or at the very least use SharkBite fittings?
Agreed!
It’s my understanding that solder is best (when done right), especially for locations that are difficult to access like tub/shower supply lines.
Pex and expansion rings are great and very cost effective, but SharkBite fittings are expensive (about 8x the cost of copper sweat fittings) but imo really shouldn't be installed in areas with no access, the plumbing company I work for in NJ won't allow SharkBite to be used for anything except to cap off stub outs, and never concealed inside of a wall. But that being said, I'm sure when properly installed (prepping the pipe/deburring) and strapping/securing the pipes properly, you'll probably be fine with sharkbite lol but lots of people just cut pipes and slide sharkbites onto them and call it a day lol
@@ChrisHasFunYTft.
@@ChrisHasFunYTSW OCSA asked the
I have the exact same system and shower drain can I use the shower drain with 2" copper drain pipe?
I have my doubts with that drain/gasket combo?
great video clean helpful to the point!
Where is the link to the item on the video?
Looks like he's using sheet rock screws.. big no no.. pan head screws are required
You didn't acoustic seal the vapor barrier at the bottom???
Where can I buy those clips at 1:57?
They usually come with the shower base.
The Home Depot.
What type of moisture barrier was used in this video? Is there a link of where to purchase some?
all i see is that plastic film which scares me lol
It looks like just regular plastic sheets that you can get at Lowes, Home Depot.
Showerhead replacement valve
Very Good!... #68 {4-26-2024}
Anyone else notice the missing finger?
Smart people do not use water based paint around water at all, unless they just like to repaint every couple of years.
Oil base paints Attracts mold and mildew . Latex or water base paints do not.
Bro didn't even bother to remove the dirt and grime at 2:18
27 years Building and remodeling homes. I’ve never , not once seen or heard of setting a 3 piece pan in mortar. 😂
Do you use hot mop/ asphalt
That's why you have soft spots on the floor with subsequential cracks n leaks
Keefui inpekte shawa
ha - who has all these special tools ?
Most of the tools are pretty common or cheap to buy. The inside cutter is like 10 bucks. The only thing that's expensive is the copper crimpers but you can just solder instead.
A drill bit and a drill. Just use shark bites instead of soldering
I happen to have a press tool available to me. Quite awesome, although, I only need to cap off the old tub sprigot, and extend my shower head up higher, so I'll probably just solder. I don't trust shark-bites inside a wall. I used them in my basement though, where I have acess.
Fiberglass is much better , dont waste your money and time.
This is Fiberglass I think.
Thanks for this video
Good lord could this be more f---ing complicated? Is there really no way to install a shower with 80 moving parts and so many points of failure down the road? It's showers like these that create a market for shower replacement kits
I didn't see anything complicated.