BILLET CUSTOM Crankshaft Installed in my 400" LS Standing Mile Engine - (Part 5)
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 8 ก.ย. 2024
- HOW TO VIDEO LINKS:
How to Gap Piston Rings - • How to Gap Piston Ring...
How to Check PTV Clearance - • How to Check PTV Clear...
How to Measure Bearing Clearance - • Measuring Bearing Clea...
How to Measure Pushrod Length - • How to Measure LS Engi...
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Unattainium is still the greatest name for those rods.
Haha thanks!
Crankshaft is jewelry....💎
Look at this dude just handing out straight knowledge. I love this channel
As someone very new to engine building, this stuff is incredible. Learning to build a 3sgte, it would be cool if you did an indepth series on engine building/part selection, but that might be a ton of work
I have been a subscriber of your channel for a long time! I love seeing all of the parts! I was the production manager for the engine builder for Cigarette racing team from 1990 to 1993... Hawk Marine Power !
When you announced that you wew building your own crazy engine, I was waiting to see what parts you would pick!
CARRILLO RODS ! I dealt with them before they were bought out ! I would have a six month lead for 12 to 20 sets at a time!
Cranks....CROWER went into 90% of our motors. We went to visit Sonny Bryant in 1992 to look at his aluminum 634 !
The Mountain Boy himself! It is a shame that we lost him to Covid19! Had he been vaccinated he'd still be innovating! What a genius! Anyways...best of luck with the build, I love it !
That crankshaft makes those guys that have a full gold grill look like amateurs!
Just kidding! This build is so radical! Thanks for taking the time to share Jacob!
I enjoy your vids ! Have learnt how to build a short block from them ! 👍
Ive seen other TH-camrs say that Sharkhide wipe/ spray on metal protectant works great for keeping billet parts looking factory fresh. Amazon now sells the stuff.
Love these videos thanks for sharing. No doubt I am sure I could never afford something like this but would love to see a future video with price breakdown if you are willing to share. I am currently working on my own 5.3 ls for my c10 swap.
amazing good content... details rock.. learnt a few lessons too, especially measuring piston height by rocking the slug to get the average... such valuable info
Can’t wait to hear it start !
Thank you for your knowledge and video's USA 🇺🇸
WHY do these videos not have as many views as they should have? With everyone into the LS these days these videos should reach 6 digits! The TH-cam algorithm must not be picking these up much.
Probably because the majority of gearheads are practical, and this is excessive. All that effort and resources to simply* run a vehicle at intervals of 1 mile down a track.
Most have more pressing issues considering the condition of our society
Imagine putting a mild cam in that build, run it on gasoline with just a touch of boost, and religiously kept the oil clean?
This young man would have just built himself a 1,000,000 mile engine.
No question this is top shelf engineering.
I love the detailed videos (:
Waiting for the new episode reminds me of waiting for a new episode of GOT.
That's awesome man. Make it happen.
Thank you!
That crank is too damn pretty like what in the hell.
I can’t believe it. Upset to never see it again
Ahhh stick shift combo. I was wondering why we were not seeing Torrington thrust at your desired power level
Love your videos and knowledge but could you please explain more in detail about measuring the top of the plston for qwelch and dividing bye 2 for head gasket thickness????
He was getting the average of two numbers. The piston rock from one side, then the other.
It's an amazing build and you are doing everything the right way as well as explaining things for the rest of us.
Are the top fuel style fire rings attached to the head gasket or do they need to be ordered separately?
Turbo John just did top fuel hoops on his combo worth a look
It's hard to argue with cp Carillo but I would be concerned at that level a steel rod would beat the bearings to death but again hard to argue with those guys, wonder what the guys from mgp, r&r, bme etc.. would have to say. I remember many years ago Bill Miller said his rod was a 10k rpm rod and 200k+ mile street rod. Wish we knew the metallurgy on those steels, if it was 300m or something they would say. I wonder if they use something like the crank, like a Timken en30b. There's so many exotic deals with heat treat and such, tons of crazy stuff just in the knife blade industry alone.
I would just put the drain returns in the pan. Even if they do fit behind the balancer it’s going to be really tight. If you have a fitting leak or a a hose go bad somehow it’s gonna be a bitch. You’d likely have to pull the balancer. That takes a potentially quick fix and makes it a likely end of your day at the track type of fix, unless you pack around a puller and installer everytime you go to the track.
I think I would put the turbo drains in the pan also.if you had in the front cover and one decided to leak it would contaminate the belt with oil and have repercussions with that
95 👍's up EG thank you for sharing 😉
I see you made one error in checking deck height. you mention you don't have the rod bearings yet, so how did you compensate for the thickness of the bearing? your piston will be higher in the hole with a bearing than what you measured. or do you already know the thickness of the bearing? The video it looks like you put the rod on the crank journal without a bearing so your measurements will be off.
👍👍
Have you ever rounded off the bottoms of the cylinder bores?
Is your reluctor tack wielded so it does not walk? Your giving us guys crank shaft envy, beautiful piece of engine jewlry. Thats right lots of stainless and antiseize.
Yes it is
@@JacobVillemain Good on you.
Pass me the anti seize, I'm going for Halloween as the tinman
Good as it gets noooo. Carbontanium engine parts are the best you can get
Those ATI balancers require measuring and honing before installation.
Damn bro I bet your 3000hp motor rips. Oh waittt……..
Weird, the hundreds I’ve installed have all worked perfect 🤷♂️
@@JacobVillemain read the directions
@@SteveV6206 no thanks
@@h34thydra39 Says the guy who plays video games in mommy's basement
Aren't you concerned oil will leak around those billet skirts?
you don't rotate the crank until the caps are installed and tightened,the tunnel is not round until caps are installed and tightened.
What was Dart's reasoning behind not making it a skirted block like the LS design has? Not making it a skirted block but then including aluminum spacers to make it look like an LS seems odd.
If memory serves, the use of the sbc type main caps helps with bay-to-bay ventilation. That is a weakness of the ls full-skirt block with the 6-bolt mains. The side skirt rails are most likely for compatibility with the ls timing cover, rear cover, and oilpan
Great video as always, but I do have one question. Why so much quench. Shouldnt you be about .005 out of the hole and have a total of about .030 to get the most out of combustion. Please give me some knowledge that I clearly do not have yet.
Big power adder cars running methanol will run a lot of quench to help slow down the flame travel. This makes the tune up much more forgiving and less “on-edge”
Thank you so much for explaining and making me smarter. love your videos .@@JacobVillemain
What made you get the non-skirted engine block instead?
Wat main and rod bearing clearance did u go with
Does Smeding offer for sale strictly LS blocks or LT as well?
I haven't seen your oil pan yet but why not put turbo drains in oil pan with baffles to avoid unwanted windage?
He's going with a dry sump system, so the pan won't have much room, but if there is room, it would be better to go to the pan. 👍
@@TheSteve1175 that makes perfect sense to go dry on a 9000rpm motor
Did you torque the main fasteners dry ?
he sure did
@@SteveV6206 I guess it is just mockup.....but I had to ask.
Badass 🤘 just curious how much $ you got into the build at this point?
I believe it was in the first video...like 40k engine parts alone. 😮
Yep, $40k in parts
Can't wait to see what you attach to the outside of that engine...as pretty as the inside is.👁👁🇺🇸👍🇺🇸
I thought you were going to use a copper head gasket!😮
I am
@@JacobVillemain
👍🏁
What is the current record?
Steel rods must be better than aluminum surely, do they make titanium conrods?
I’m sure they do, would work well in a N/A engine build!
Very,very expensive 🙃
oddball question, what do you recommend as a fixture to mount a dial gauge to be able to read thrust on an aluminum block? I need to do my corvette engine but i'm struggling to find a good way to mount the dial to get a reading
steel plate. drill a couple holes in it that align with bolt holes on the block. magnetic base.
You can do the strep plate, as mentioned, or two other ideas come to mind.
1) Afapt the indicator arm to thread into a hole on the block.
2) Attach the mag base onto the crank itself and have the indicator indicate off the block.
I think the steel plate idea is probably easiest.
5:50 No torque sequence needed?
Nope
Why .070 quench ?
Same question...accounting for high rpm rod stretch??
Titanium rods.
The rods won’t last ask me how I know
🤫🤫 The video will be epic
You date a clairvoyant? Jesus himself talks to you? Do tell.
3000 lol 😂 Nice to dream anyway..