Tony - great, as always. These make really clean trays. Just a hint - when laser cutting the wood molds, if you put a center hole in the base and the lower insert piece, you can line them up perfectly when gluing it together, rather than eyeballing it (for rectangular molds, use two indexing holes).
You probably know this but others may not. If you run the laser a little hot and slow it can quickly and easily burn a .1 mm trench in leather. I use this to catch a hole punch for perfectly located and spaced holes. My holes never looked so clean. Something around 80% - 45 mm/s - 20 mm laser height.
So many possibilities Tony, Working on trying to get one myself. Been playing around with Creative Space for the past week and like what it has to offer. Not as in-depth as Lightburn but I tend to do more of the work in Adobe Illustrator so not a problem for me. Love the tray templates so thank you for those :) Much love to you and D and family :D
Hello Chris, I've heard and seen good things about creative space so far bit havent had the chance to use it yet. Which xtool model are you using it with now?
@@fredthegreg hi there, I’m not at the moment. I downloaded the software from XTool just to have a play (thankfully you don’t need to have a laser in order to try the software). Hoping to get a P2 soon 🤞🏼
Certainly! I will gladly give you the extra support with your link, I'll be taking advantage of the sale prices they are offering for black friday. I'm working in Bahrain at the moment, but it will be patiently waiting for me when I get home in a couple months 😊
Hi, great video but you failed to mention if this cutter is good for leather. I would think that it may be good for chrome tan but not for veg tan as it will show burn marks on the leather.
You are very enthusiastic about this laser, yet you won't allow or sell laser files for the leather work itself. Why this difference? For some of us - cutting the leather on a laser would be preferable.
I had the same thought as soon as this popped up on my alerts as a paying subscriber. I frequently remix his pdf files for laser cutting. It does not take long. Even increased the capacity of my diode laser specifically for some of his bigger items. For level-setting, I've been doing my own custom items (belts, knife sheaths, holsters, etc.) for the past 15 years with either an awl and stitching pony and saddle stitching, or my Cowboy 3500 sewing machine, so I have a bit of leather working experience.
Anyhow, I found the answer. "As a natural material, leather tends to cut with burn marks. Where possible, we try to use protective backing or protective mask on the top and reverse faces to keep burn marks on the to a minimum. You will need to peel the protective backing off once you have received your job"
If the power and speed is appropriate, you won't get as much burning along the edge of the leather. You really only need to worry about that with natural un-dyed, or very light dyed leather. Once you add some leather conditioner or dye to it you will never see the burnt edges. If your using anything darker then light brown it will not be seen at all. But A light sanding along the edges will take off most of the burnt bits, which is needed anyways if you're trying to get that nice smooth edge before burnishing. Casing your leather prior to cutting will help as well, and it also makes stiffer leather lay perfectly flat on the cutting surface. Hope that makes sense.
@@DieselpunkRo Could you make a video making a watch strap? There are a lot of details that are hard to make that you would explain perfectly! Thank you
I hate when content providers do this with files. If you are giving it away for free then make it accessible. These files will not open in AutoCAD. It says press enter, but nothing happens. I'm able to open in TrueView but can't do anything else with it! I find that a lot of European's, especially eastern European's like to lock or restrict things that are providing supposedly for free!
@@DieselpunkRo It opens in AutoCAD but doesn't display anything beyond "Press ENTER to continue" and locks up my AutoCAD. If the file was created in AutoCAD it would fully open in AutoCAD since DWG, DXF or DWF file are native AutoCAD file formats! I found a way around whatever you provided. Step 1. Open your dxf file in Affinity Designer. Step 2. export to SGV file format. Step 3. Open the SGV file in Inkscape and export to DXF. Now the file will open in AutoCAD! Your ridiculous statement that I'm talking nonsense is offensive. I was simply conveying that there is an issue with the files you provided, and is quite common with files from Europe/Eastern Europe. Obviously you have no interest in solving real issues when someone takes the time to point them out.
![ตีสิบเดย์ [FULL] | เปิดใจ "อาจารย์ เบียร์ ฅนตื่นธรรม" นักสนทนาธรรมสายดุดัน!](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/vqaBI_mnoDk/mqdefault.jpg)
Tony - great, as always. These make really clean trays. Just a hint - when laser cutting the wood molds, if you put a center hole in the base and the lower insert piece, you can line them up perfectly when gluing it together, rather than eyeballing it (for rectangular molds, use two indexing holes).
More tips on selling our goods please, you’re amazing Tony!
You rock Tony.... keep up the great work I'm always waiting to see what you will come up with next
So many great ideas and tips in your videos, even though I have a different laser, I will be taking advantage of the lessons I learned today😊
You probably know this but others may not. If you run the laser a little hot and slow it can quickly and easily burn a .1 mm trench in leather. I use this to catch a hole punch for perfectly located and spaced holes. My holes never looked so clean. Something around 80% - 45 mm/s - 20 mm laser height.
Where is a good site or channel for material settings for the Xtool P2?? Thank you
@@nottalot2092 Part of the lightburn calibration is running a wide range of feeds and speed to check the results.
dude this is great stuff. Thanks for sharing
Tony is the GOAT
So many possibilities Tony, Working on trying to get one myself. Been playing around with Creative Space for the past week and like what it has to offer. Not as in-depth as Lightburn but I tend to do more of the work in Adobe Illustrator so not a problem for me. Love the tray templates so thank you for those :) Much love to you and D and family :D
thank you Chris, love you right back
Hello Chris, I've heard and seen good things about creative space so far bit havent had the chance to use it yet. Which xtool model are you using it with now?
@@fredthegreg hi there, I’m not at the moment. I downloaded the software from XTool just to have a play (thankfully you don’t need to have a laser in order to try the software). Hoping to get a P2 soon 🤞🏼
@ChrisLee-UK ahh. I'll have to download it and try again. I wasn't able to do anything with out an xtool connected for some reason.
Looks good Tony, I've been looking at this same laser for a few months now, I plan on getting one soon.
Fantastic! please use my link if at all possible. Thank you
Certainly! I will gladly give you the extra support with your link, I'll be taking advantage of the sale prices they are offering for black friday. I'm working in Bahrain at the moment, but it will be patiently waiting for me when I get home in a couple months 😊
@@DieselpunkRo Make Tony some money!!!!
Great video. I would love to see you include a DXF file option for all your patterns.
So long as the files are not locked or in some way crippled. As these "FREE" files are!
@@ytcommenting3101 How are these locked or crippled? They load fine in xtool Creative Space, LightBurn, Inkscape, FreeCAD and even online CAD viewers.
Great devise you've got! Does it cut plastic objects? Shoe molding?
that's next
Hi, great video but you failed to mention if this cutter is good for leather. I would think that it may be good for chrome tan but not for veg tan as it will show burn marks on the leather.
Great video, as always!
You are very enthusiastic about this laser, yet you won't allow or sell laser files for the leather work itself. Why this difference? For some of us - cutting the leather on a laser would be preferable.
I had the same thought as soon as this popped up on my alerts as a paying subscriber. I frequently remix his pdf files for laser cutting. It does not take long. Even increased the capacity of my diode laser specifically for some of his bigger items. For level-setting, I've been doing my own custom items (belts, knife sheaths, holsters, etc.) for the past 15 years with either an awl and stitching pony and saddle stitching, or my Cowboy 3500 sewing machine, so I have a bit of leather working experience.
Anyhow, I found the answer. "As a natural material, leather tends to cut with burn marks. Where possible, we try to use protective backing or protective mask on the top and reverse faces to keep burn marks on the to a minimum. You will need to peel the protective backing off once you have received your job"
If the power and speed is appropriate, you won't get as much burning along the edge of the leather. You really only need to worry about that with natural un-dyed, or very light dyed leather. Once you add some leather conditioner or dye to it you will never see the burnt edges. If your using anything darker then light brown it will not be seen at all. But A light sanding along the edges will take off most of the burnt bits, which is needed anyways if you're trying to get that nice smooth edge before burnishing. Casing your leather prior to cutting will help as well, and it also makes stiffer leather lay perfectly flat on the cutting surface. Hope that makes sense.
What watch are you wearing? Great video! Thank you!
Baltic AQUASCAPHE BRONZE
@@DieselpunkRo great just bought one! Thanks
@@DieselpunkRo Could you make a video making a watch strap? There are a lot of details that are hard to make that you would explain perfectly! Thank you
I hate when content providers do this with files. If you are giving it away for free then make it accessible. These files will not open in AutoCAD. It says press enter, but nothing happens. I'm able to open in TrueView but can't do anything else with it! I find that a lot of European's, especially eastern European's like to lock or restrict things that are providing supposedly for free!
You are talking nonsense. The files were made in autocad and will open in autocad as well
@@DieselpunkRo It opens in AutoCAD but doesn't display anything beyond "Press ENTER to continue" and locks up my AutoCAD. If the file was created in AutoCAD it would fully open in AutoCAD since DWG, DXF or DWF file are native AutoCAD file formats! I found a way around whatever you provided. Step 1. Open your dxf file in Affinity Designer. Step 2. export to SGV file format. Step 3. Open the SGV file in Inkscape and export to DXF. Now the file will open in AutoCAD! Your ridiculous statement that I'm talking nonsense is offensive. I was simply conveying that there is an issue with the files you provided, and is quite common with files from Europe/Eastern Europe. Obviously you have no interest in solving real issues when someone takes the time to point them out.
Hello sir, Are you looking for professional TH-cam thumbnail designer?
@dieselpunkro thank you so very much Tony!!!