On one of the online Morris forums, someone has made a pair of wedges which when hammered into place above the centre of the length of the torsion bar, will ease the bar down enough to remove and then replace the bolts the correct way. The other problem which will happen if the bolt is fed in backwards, is that the nut and the end of the bolt emerges too far out of the crossmember, and will foul the torsion bar and if you're unlucky will cause an annoying rattle.
I have heard that the though bolts for the brake master can be removed if the torsion bar is carefully levered down to allow for clearance leaving the bar in situ. Of course, when refitting, fit the bolts the other way round, nuts on the torsion bar side. Many Minors have already been so modified.
Indeed, and levering the torsion bar down is exactly what Tom did (we didn't have video). But they were fitted that way for a reason, it turns out: So if the nut worked its way off, the bolt would be trapped in place so the master cylinder couldn't come loose.
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Looks pretty much like the 1960 Sprite I owned in 1962. Cheap crappy design enhanced with shoddy materials. England was the cradle of the Industrial Revolution and then it devolved into this mess.
Probably no worse than the car design/build of today; my 1970 Morris Minor Traveller is still running well with 166,000+ miles. Most jobs on them are simple, aside from the brake master cylinder!
On one of the online Morris forums, someone has made a pair of wedges which when hammered into place above the centre of the length of the torsion bar, will ease the bar down enough to remove and then replace the bolts the correct way. The other problem which will happen if the bolt is fed in backwards, is that the nut and the end of the bolt emerges too far out of the crossmember, and will foul the torsion bar and if you're unlucky will cause an annoying rattle.
Enjoying you sharing your efforts on this! Thks for making the videos!
Thanks for the good words!
Good update!
Thank you kindly!
I have heard that the though bolts for the brake master can be removed if the torsion bar is carefully levered down to allow for clearance leaving the bar in situ. Of course, when refitting, fit the bolts the other way round, nuts on the torsion bar side. Many Minors have already been so modified.
Indeed, and levering the torsion bar down is exactly what Tom did (we didn't have video). But they were fitted that way for a reason, it turns out: So if the nut worked its way off, the bolt would be trapped in place so the master cylinder couldn't come loose.
Looks pretty much like the 1960 Sprite I owned in 1962. Cheap crappy design enhanced with shoddy materials. England was the cradle of the Industrial Revolution and then it devolved into this mess.
Probably no worse than the car design/build of today; my 1970 Morris Minor Traveller is still running well with 166,000+ miles. Most jobs on them are simple, aside from the brake master cylinder!
The music and talking at same time is so annoying.
Im out