Most all manuals are conservative on powder charge. If the rifle is in good shape you can tell if pressure is high by primers and if the bolt is sticky
Actually , they aren't all that conservative . They take into account the different weather conditions and many other things . By the time the primers flatten and the bolt is sticky , you will be way over pressure . The conservative manual myth is just that , a myth that keeps getting repeated . You could be at 70,000 to 80,000 psi when the bolt gets sticky or some harder than normal primers flatten out . They have expensive pressure equipment to test with . The safe bet is to trust the manuals MAX load data . They know what the actual pressure is under different conditions . Besides , is it worth beating the rifles action and bolt lugs up for an extra 50 fps in velocity ? @@rickyburkett4009
Measuring case head diameter and flat primers are indicators while the book data was done with actual pressure gauges . Going by primers is like looking at a tire and guessing air pressure by how flat it looks . @@winstonskafte5505
When you think you're at max charge, re-reload the same 3 rds three times. If the primer pockets are still snug, you should be good. If not, maybe back off 1 grain. Brass is expensive. 😊
As an advanced reloader making rifles in wildcat cartridges Reloaders can substitute 6.5 Stable for 4350 because the burn rate is the same. 6.5 Stable has a chemical anti fouling and removes fouling from barrels and is stable under all tempters.
How far you off the lands? Also is this brass been fired? Because that will change the case volume? Where you will Find the best results will be 95-100% case fill with we’re your bullet is seated. Well done on the video! Vary well explained.
Wow! Just WOW! 1 shot average? At least the group will be tight! Safety? No shooting glasses? Consult several sources. Not one. Primers are a poor way to determine pressure. Sad.
I don't know where you got your reloading information from but it's way wrong. You CANNOT find an accuracy node with just one shot per powder load. You need at least 3 shots per powder charge and work your way up. Be very cautious about going over on your charge weights. Especially with Hornady Brass. You might be able to get 2 to 3 reloads at max charge or a little over but the brass will start to stretch. Especially in the primer pockets. I've been a Balistician for over 50+ years. I have loaded hundreds of different cartridges over that time frame. So I know what works. Speed is not everything. Furthermore, you should try at least 2 other types or brands of powder and see what they do. The 243 is an overbore cartridge. So using Stabal 6.5 would work really well in it. Great video but try doing what I suggested and you'll be very impressed.
The point of the test is to find the flat spot on the data set, "stable powder charge".. giving you a good spot to start at so you don't waste components.
Man that rifle eat it all
She definitely doesn’t seem too picky!
Primers don't always tell you max pressure . The manuals do .
Most all manuals are conservative on powder charge. If the rifle is in good shape you can tell if pressure is high by primers and if the bolt is sticky
Actually , they aren't all that conservative . They take into account the different weather conditions and many other things . By the time the primers flatten and the bolt is sticky , you will be way over pressure . The conservative manual myth is just that , a myth that keeps getting repeated . You could be at 70,000 to 80,000 psi when the bolt gets sticky or some harder than normal primers flatten out . They have expensive pressure equipment to test with . The safe bet is to trust the manuals MAX load data . They know what the actual pressure is under different conditions . Besides , is it worth beating the rifles action and bolt lugs up for an extra 50 fps in velocity ?
@@rickyburkett4009
Measuring case head diameter is a sure sign.
I would trust the primers a lot more then the book .
Measuring case head diameter and flat primers are indicators while the book data was done with actual pressure gauges . Going by primers is like looking at a tire and guessing air pressure by how flat it looks . @@winstonskafte5505
When you think you're at max charge, re-reload the same 3 rds three times. If the primer pockets are still snug, you should be good. If not, maybe back off 1 grain. Brass is expensive. 😊
I am surprised at how the long range 243 target shooters calmly surpass the sami 52000 cup by a massive margin lol .
As an advanced reloader making rifles in wildcat cartridges Reloaders can substitute 6.5 Stable for 4350 because the burn rate is the same.
6.5 Stable has a chemical anti fouling and removes fouling from barrels and is stable under all tempters.
How far you off the lands? Also is this brass been fired? Because that will change the case volume? Where you will
Find the best results will be 95-100% case fill with we’re your bullet is seated.
Well done on the video! Vary well explained.
Barnes always recommends starting at .050 off the lands, so that’s where I started
@@jacobstates8583 👍🏻
Liking the videos so far guys. Keep it up. Just out of curiosity, Red Tag? Is that an early season? Doe only?
Yes it is a deer management system for farms and crop damage
But that don't look like your average 243 from Walmart
No sir you aren’t going to find one there anymore
Wow! Just WOW! 1 shot average? At least the group will be tight! Safety? No shooting glasses? Consult several sources. Not one. Primers are a poor way to determine pressure. Sad.
You need to educate yourself on topics that you know nothing about. 🤦🏻♂️
I don't know where you got your reloading information from but it's way wrong. You CANNOT find an accuracy node with just one shot per powder load. You need at least 3 shots per powder charge and work your way up. Be very cautious about going over on your charge weights. Especially with Hornady Brass. You might be able to get 2 to 3 reloads at max charge or a little over but the brass will start to stretch. Especially in the primer pockets. I've been a Balistician for over 50+ years. I have loaded hundreds of different cartridges over that time frame. So I know what works. Speed is not everything. Furthermore, you should try at least 2 other types or brands of powder and see what they do. The 243 is an overbore cartridge. So using Stabal 6.5 would work really well in it. Great video but try doing what I suggested and you'll be very impressed.
The point of the test is to find the flat spot on the data set, "stable powder charge".. giving you a good spot to start at so you don't waste components.