FIRST. Sorry... perhaps too enthusiastic. Been a very long time since I was able to hop on one of your videos this early. Such a simple to machine solution to handle the pain of round bar stock. I have nearly saved enough to get my PCNC 1100, after almost 4 years of watching your videos and learning so much. Great work! God bless, and keep up the wonderful content.
You have mentioned Lakeshore Carbide many times, so I ordered some end mills for steel and some 3 flute for aluminum. As I opened each one I found them very impressive, hefty carbide weight, very very sharp. They were great at removing material, I will never buy 3rd world tooling again. I did mention that I'm here because John Saunders of NYC CNC said you guys are great and so are your products.
If you want to get nerdy about it.. your ball tool actually has significant chip thinning both axially and radially.. and a set of untrimmed surfaces would be slightly more awesome than the single patched surface.. good work, though, particularly from a practical standpoint, none of the stuff I'm nit-picking matters.. :)
In this situation it doesn't matter but I am not a fan of scallop toolpaths because it works in a rectangular motion. This creates perpendicular cuts on the ends, also it's difficult to maintain a smooth cut the closer to the bottom of the curve you're cutting. This is amplified as the pocket size increases. I prefer a toolpath that gives control over "cusp height".
John, you must have picked a 2 flute tool from your F360 tool library: flutes=feed/(chipload*speed)=21/(0.0205882*5100)=2 Then, running a 3 flute tool @21in/min and 5100rpm your actual chipload=0.00137in/tooth and @0.5in WoC your actual chip thickness=0.00110in/tooth
In this video you showed manual drilling. I recently got my Tormach 1100 and would love to see a video on how you manually prepare /square stock for final machining. For example, do you use the jog shuttle, keyboard, MDI, conversational or a combination? We've all seen examples of how to square up a block, maybe you could use the "squaring a block" example but focus on how you actually move the machine to get it square. This would be a really helpful vid for newbs like me. Thanks!
I'd like to tool up and start getting some material for things like making soft jaws. What material stock size(s) do you find you use the most when making soft jaws? I'd like to get some to have it on hand.
The first thing I see, is that the Jaw holds the part in a specific way, no complex setup involving a stop, and whatnot. A jaw is easier to use. I like to think, that the video is more or less just about the application of what you might want to do later. Having this figured out can enabled you hold a different set of parts than the size/length here. Teaching videos can show you to come up with your own conclusion to make something equal or better, for your part. As for me, for most applications, I wouldn't have bothered with slotting that center piece, the ballnose will cut that just fine. However, Fusion can be tricky to work with, and John is showing how you would create this toolpath in it, the patchwork, etc. Because you never know, that for even larger workpieces, taking the time to figure it for a more efficient run will help you in the long run for large orders. If you can avoid cutting the ball center, of course it's better.
The only thing I don't like about my orange vise is no Monster Jaws. I have 8 sets left over haha I am having so much trouble with 3D right now. Trying to contour with a smooth lead in and out. The only way it's working for me at all is to plunge. Everything else generates a straight ramp in the opposite direction of the cutting path at 5 or 6 seemingly random heights
You can throw Monster Jaws on the Orange. The CarveSmart integration still has 1/2"-13 (I think that's the size) threaded holes for you to bolt standard Kurt pattern jaws on there. The latest Orange vises let you flip the master jaws around to turn the standard jaw pattern holes inward and run it just like a Kurt. Because Orange is flipping amazing!
I would argue the v blocks are far less elegant. In reality, its merely the difference between a production run and a single job. Furthermore, that's actually not what v blocks are "for". V blocks are more a precision measurement device than a makeshift clamp.
I love how you did high speed adaptive machining to cut that slot when you could have cut that slot, full depth, in 1 pass (not slow, quick) and finished the od in 1/3 the time. Brilliant.
As I've been watching some other videos of CNC-machining and witnessed it real time, I'm puzzled as to why the cutting speed you use always seem to be so much slower and careful than similar cutting - like this: th-cam.com/video/8H-0lI7kxbg/w-d-xo.html - and a few seconds fwd. Is your machinery not up to it or what?
Peter Riis These machines cost no more than $20k, not cheao by any means, but the machines in that video all cost well over $200k. The machines hes showcasing are entrt level machining centers, but he does have 2 production VMCs that can cut much faster than the tormachs hes showing
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FIRST.
Sorry... perhaps too enthusiastic.
Been a very long time since I was able to hop on one of your videos this early.
Such a simple to machine solution to handle the pain of round bar stock.
I have nearly saved enough to get my PCNC 1100, after almost 4 years of watching your videos and learning so much.
Great work! God bless, and keep up the wonderful content.
You have mentioned Lakeshore Carbide many times, so I ordered some end mills for steel and some 3 flute for aluminum. As I opened each one I found them very impressive, hefty carbide weight, very very sharp. They were great at removing material, I will never buy 3rd world tooling again. I did mention that I'm here because John Saunders of NYC CNC said you guys are great and so are your products.
Love the PATCH info. I need to start playing with that more. Great info as always John!
Cool tip about the low profile shc screws, i think we just wachine through them though
Why not just do a V cut on the jaw? Wouldn't it locate it just as good?
If you want to get nerdy about it.. your ball tool actually has significant chip thinning both axially and radially.. and a set of untrimmed surfaces would be slightly more awesome than the single patched surface.. good work, though, particularly from a practical standpoint, none of the stuff I'm nit-picking matters.. :)
In this situation it doesn't matter but I am not a fan of scallop toolpaths because it works in a rectangular motion. This creates perpendicular cuts on the ends, also it's difficult to maintain a smooth cut the closer to the bottom of the curve you're cutting. This is amplified as the pocket size increases. I prefer a toolpath that gives control over "cusp height".
John, you must have picked a 2 flute tool from your F360 tool library:
flutes=feed/(chipload*speed)=21/(0.0205882*5100)=2
Then, running a 3 flute tool @21in/min and 5100rpm your actual
chipload=0.00137in/tooth
and @0.5in WoC your actual
chip thickness=0.00110in/tooth
In this video you showed manual drilling. I recently got my Tormach 1100 and would love to see a video on how you manually prepare /square stock for final machining. For example, do you use the jog shuttle, keyboard, MDI, conversational or a combination?
We've all seen examples of how to square up a block, maybe you could use the "squaring a block" example but focus on how you actually move the machine to get it square. This would be a really helpful vid for newbs like me.
Thanks!
Great stuff! Thanks John!
I'd like to tool up and start getting some material for things like making soft jaws. What material stock size(s) do you find you use the most when making soft jaws? I'd like to get some to have it on hand.
Tangential arc to make the patch, yep!
Okay, does this have an advantage over just whipping out a v-block? :)
The first thing I see, is that the Jaw holds the part in a specific way, no complex setup involving a stop, and whatnot. A jaw is easier to use.
I like to think, that the video is more or less just about the application of what you might want to do later. Having this figured out can enabled you hold a different set of parts than the size/length here. Teaching videos can show you to come up with your own conclusion to make something equal or better, for your part.
As for me, for most applications, I wouldn't have bothered with slotting that center piece, the ballnose will cut that just fine. However, Fusion can be tricky to work with, and John is showing how you would create this toolpath in it, the patchwork, etc. Because you never know, that for even larger workpieces, taking the time to figure it for a more efficient run will help you in the long run for large orders. If you can avoid cutting the ball center, of course it's better.
The only thing I don't like about my orange vise is no Monster Jaws. I have 8 sets left over haha
I am having so much trouble with 3D right now. Trying to contour with a smooth lead in and out. The only way it's working for me at all is to plunge. Everything else generates a straight ramp in the opposite direction of the cutting path at 5 or 6 seemingly random heights
You can throw Monster Jaws on the Orange. The CarveSmart integration still has 1/2"-13 (I think that's the size) threaded holes for you to bolt standard Kurt pattern jaws on there. The latest Orange vises let you flip the master jaws around to turn the standard jaw pattern holes inward and run it just like a Kurt. Because Orange is flipping amazing!
Its the at-man unlimited song!
nice video and good teaching video. Tho couldnt you hold part in a 5c collet instead and avoid the work
David Scribbins yes but then youd have to use extra stock to hold onto and youd have a lot of stick out. this setup gives access to the whole length.
Yawn V Jaws/V Block
That's what V blocks are for. Soft jaws and needing low profile bolts to do a keyway is pretty inelegant by any measure.
I would argue the v blocks are far less elegant. In reality, its merely the difference between a production run and a single job. Furthermore, that's actually not what v blocks are "for". V blocks are more a precision measurement device than a makeshift clamp.
I love how you did high speed adaptive machining to cut that slot when you could have cut that slot, full depth, in 1 pass (not slow, quick) and finished the od in 1/3 the time. Brilliant.
nice video, is that diesel ogg in the beginning?
I love all your videos! Im wondering because I havn't seen any videos about this but...How would you design a jaw to hold say, a 12" bar vertically?
My CAM never ignores the patch. it avoids it and makes crazy tool paths. What is the secret?
Pick yourself up some carvesmart or Kurt quickchange jaws... You won't regret it.
Should have made a V jaw, this way it would have been more universal.
Looks to me that the part needs to be accurately rotated 90 degrees to machine a different feature due to the pin.
As I've been watching some other videos of CNC-machining and witnessed it real time, I'm puzzled as to why the cutting speed you use always seem to be so much slower and careful than similar cutting - like this: th-cam.com/video/8H-0lI7kxbg/w-d-xo.html - and a few seconds fwd.
Is your machinery not up to it or what?
Peter Riis These machines cost no more than $20k, not cheao by any means, but the machines in that video all cost well over $200k. The machines hes showcasing are entrt level machining centers, but he does have 2 production VMCs that can cut much faster than the tormachs hes showing