New Fingerboard Radius Sander is AWESOME!!!
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 10 ก.พ. 2025
- This is one of my newest pieces of equipment and it is an awesome upgrade for me. I wish I would have splurged on this tool a long time ago. Just going to give my pros and cons and what I think I can improve upon with this machine.
I use this same machine. The radius attachment is kinda janky and a POS but it works after lots of random shimming. The white height adjustment wheels I keep absolutely locked and do not adjust them while sanding. In fact I hated that they came loose, so I replaced the small head set screw with some longer hex head ones. That way those white wheels stay put. If they are moving, the radius is changing. Then its just a matter of listening to the sanding to know when you are done.
Once I get the sweet spot, I'm going to lock mine down permanently also.
Hi!
Could you not put the headstock to the other end of the swing arm?
I tried that as well. It hangs over past the platen. It will work if I cut the mdf for my thinner necks just like the other side. Thanks for th suggestion.
Why don't you rotate the neck 180° and have the headstock on the other end?
Tried it...the platen isn't long enough. It might get close if I swap the swivel arm and adjust the guides on the swivel piece. Haven't had a minute to try adjusting those yet. Thanks for the advice and for watching!
You didn't need to cut away the dust collector door, just flip the swing arm and sand with the headstock at the other end
The other way it hangs over the platen. I've got it set up nice now. No cutting required. Thanks for watching?
@@lesperanceguitars8381 You have to switch the swing arm around 180 so the blue masking take is facing away from you because your swing arm is offset - It's not symmetrical spaced. I didn't add any other pointers because you said the setup was new to you and I only noticed after I posted that you published this video over a year ago.
(You might know this now but I'll add:) You don't need the wooden shim because the gantry arms allow the swing arm to drop down so the swing arm reaches the sandpaper. And at @5:15 the reason those green parts swivel are so you can do compound radius necks and a major reason the setup is angled across the sander.
Have a look on James Tylers youtube channel. They have a nice quick demo of how they use their modded Grizzly for their necks. All the best 👍
I turned it 180 after I posted the video. It's running great. The reason for the wood strip on the bottom of the swingarm is to compensate for the difference in thickness of the two types of necks that I build. I just add and remove it instead of readjusting the arms. Keeps it simple and accurate. I will look at his video as well. Thanks for taking the time to give me some info. I enjoy these type of conversations. It's all about sharing experiences. Peace!
@@lesperanceguitars8381 That's great and I totally agree! It all about sharing information. I love it when I find something new or a new approach.✌
Why dont you just fit a thicker spacer on the swinging arm so you can get your neck in the centre of the arm?? There is plenty of scope to adust the height of the assembly.
I'll take a look at that. Thanks!
I had a friend who was a senior master builder at Fender. He could grab a neck and radius the fretboard by hand on a belt sander. Even compound radius. He would just grab the thing and dig in on the sander. A few measurements here and there and it was done. I wouldn't believe it if I hadn't seen it. Same thing with shaping the back of the neck profile.
Those guys are truly masters of the trade. I'll have to try it some day! Thanks for watching my videos!