Hi Nigel! All of my Willows are starting to leaf out, too. I like how you said it was going to be exciting...I think that's what I enjoy about Willows--they're always full of energy and ready to be worked on :) Thanks as always for the update.
Thank you for recording and sharing these bonsai processes, they are enjoyable to watch and are very inspiring! I am currently binge watching your videos! :)
Thank you, Nigel, again for another amazing look at your Weeping Willow bonsai. This past Fall I began work on mine; it is still quite juvenile in its branch structure and no flaking bark yet, but I love it regardless.
My willows are coming to life too! I am very happy that they survived the winter. I'm thinking about shooting my first video soon, when the "real spring" will come. Thank you for your video.
i don't know which species we had in Wisconsin, but they were beautiful. the branches weeped to the ground. we always knew them as truly "weeping" willows becase they looked sad yet elegant in winter. if you know, id love to make a bonsai from one.
Hello Nigel - Your channel has been tremendously helpful. Your videos are also quite relaxing and enjoyable to watch. Thank you for the time and effort that you put into creating this content for us. I have a lot of questions for you which I'll pose in the appropriate new videos as they are posted. For this willow - I noticed that your surface root development/trunk flare techniques have not had been as effective as with some of your other trees. I also have a willow in early development and it just kind of shoots straight down into the soil. There are actually no roots for the first inch or so below the soil line, but I don't want to raise the planting level because there is actually a bit of reverse taper just above the roots. I'm tempted to air layer it at the thickest point in the lower trunk. What do you think about surface root development on your tree and willows in general? Does the deep root growth limit surface root development?
+Mark Mondrinos Hello Mark, I think the surface root development will come slowly with time. Because the willow started as a cutting, the surface roots are way behind the trunk in development. This also happens with air layering, it takes many years before the surface roots look good. All we can do on the willows is keep pruning the roots flat on the bottom with every re potting and they should slowly get thick and develop bark in time. I think a good solid root flare will really add to the look of the tree. The cutting that I started from a small branch should have a better root balance as it gets older. Thanks and I look forward to more questions!
+Luke Sneeringer Few trees root as easily as the Willow tree, but many can be started in water. Check out this article... homeguides.sfgate.com/propagate-weeping-japanese-cherries-47473.html
Nigel, I always enjoy your Willow videos. I have a question that is not exactly on topic, but I thought i'd leave it here. I had a Willow cutting growing last year that subsequently died in late summer. Late last fall/early winter, i tried to take several larger cuttings, about 1/2 to 3/4 inch in diameter and none of them took (they were kept indoors, though were taken from the parent tree after it was dormant). Do you know 1) if there will be a good time this spring to try again for a larger cutting? 2) Do you happen to know if larger cuttings work on Willows? (or if there's any advice as to what to plant them in, or how to keep them alive while rooting). My other option may be buying a willow from a landscape center since they're usually cheap around here. Note: I am about 900 miles west of you in Minnesota if that tells you anything about the climate. Another note: The cuttings that did not make it were planted in diotomaceous earth and pine bark which is my standard mix. Thanks! Looking forward to all of your spring videos
+Jason Garver Hi Jason, I would start my cuttings in just plain rain water. I have one cutting that has been sitting in water for two winters now and it is growing well. After you get a good root mass in just water, root prune and top prune the cutting and plant it in your soil mixture. The soil mixture must have a bowel or tray of water under neath it, that will keep the soil constantly wet until the roots adapt to the soil. Any size cutting will work on a willow tree, even a 6" dia. will root well in a bucket of water. With a large cutting you will get a hollow trunk tree, as the center will slowly rot away at the top and bottom saw cuts. A smaller cutting will heal over before any rot begins at the center of the cutting. Cuttings do best in spring, but can be taken any time of the year if they are placed in a bright warm spot. Hope you have good luck with your second batch.
+Nigel Saunders Thanks Nigel! I will try starting the cuttings in rain water this time. I inspected several willows today, and their buds are just starting to extend and open. Also, very good to know about the trunk rot - That could be very interesting for an old gnarled willow. Thanks again!
So this is my second year of doing bonsai. My first tree was a Japanese maple. However, I've always wanted a weeping willow tree. I have a question though, to train a weeping willow. Is it best to begin as a cutting? And what would be the best way to select a cutting?
A collected tree would be even better, if you can find one small enough, they will root from any size cutting and with a cutting you can be sure to get a good even radial root base. It is hard finding a good cutting, most branches are long and straight with no taper. You can occasionally see a good short branch on the side of a mature tree, one that keeps suckering from the same spot.
After the cut is made on the branch, the stub of the branch remains alive for a while until it dies back to a point where there is sap flow, usually the first branch or bud. By leaving a stub, it gives the tree time to re route the flow of sap to this bud or branch while the piece above this point begins to die back. By the time the die back reaches the bud or branch you want to keep, the bud or branch is already growing and receiving the full sap flow. If you were to cut to the exact point you want, the bud or branch may dry up and die, before getting the sap flowing to it. I remove the dried up stub from pruning at a later date to make it flush. That's my theory at the moment.
Thanks very much for that information Nigel. I am new to Bonsai trees. Love watching your very informative videos. I am learning alot from you. Take care. Oliver
Nigel, would you be able to do a video or section of video on the different types of moss that you use and how you cultivate it. Some of your moss is very long and shaggy looking, which is a look that I really like. Thanks in advance!
In the peak of the growing season, I'm pruning the willow almost once a week. I let the shoots grow 3 to 4 inches and then prune back to the first pair of leaves.
hey Nigel I didn't hear you mention this, but I'm curious to know how old this tree is. since I have to willows that have been growing for two years they're 2-3 feet tall but as thick as a pencil :( I'm thinking about making one of those as a windblown style
Thanks Nigel, i was wondering how long can you leave your cuttings in the water for? mine have been in for a fair while but its not the best time of year here in Australia to repot
+Aleks Bonsai A good question. I have a few cuttings that I just never got around to potting. They have been sitting in water for two years. I have been fertilizing the water in the summer and the cuttings seem to be growing really well. My guess is you could keep the cuttings in water for many years without hurting the health of the tree.
+crippledsquirel2564 Almost any time is a good time for willows, they will root in spring summer and fall. Spring is probably the best time, I would take your cuttings right now and stick them in rain water with full sun. Good luck, you can take any size cutting, but if they are too big, you might get the middle of the trunk rotting out before it heals over.
They like a free draining soil and to be watered as often as possible. The best method is to use a drip line that constantly water's them and feeds them all day long!
+Alex Mindock After you put the cutting in the pot with your bonsai soil, place a container of water underneath the pot. the soil will draw up the water and keep the soil wet. Slowly you can ween the tree and pot off of the water container if you like. The tree will grow better with the water always underneath it all through the summer.
Nigel Saunders I've been keeping my cuttings inside because I live on a collage campus. Would you suggest high/low light? Or should I try to keep them outside? Also, with the pot in a container of water, should I continue to water the cuttings or should I rely on the container of water to keep them hydrated?
+Alex Mindock If you can keep them outside in full sun, it would be best. Indoors, they may sprout new growth, but without full sun, the cuttings will go downhill. I water my willow from above, mainly to keep the pot of water full. The willow will use a lot of water in the summer, be careful on hot sunny days.
Ordered a 8 inch stick .placed it in water as directed . Within a month roots had spread and greenery had sprouted and now (1 month) I have a tree with 12 inch greenery growing very well. I am new to Bonzai . Should I begin to trim the tree or just let it grow for the next few months.
Hi Nigel! All of my Willows are starting to leaf out, too. I like how you said it was going to be exciting...I think that's what I enjoy about Willows--they're always full of energy and ready to be worked on :) Thanks as always for the update.
Thank you for recording and sharing these bonsai processes, they are enjoyable to watch and are very inspiring! I am currently binge watching your videos! :)
Thank you Farid, lots more to come!
You have many fantastic trees but i think this is the one i like the most! Great work as usual.
Cheers.Sid.
Thank for the update! Your willow is looking great.
Thank you, Nigel, again for another amazing look at your Weeping Willow bonsai. This past Fall I began work on mine; it is still quite juvenile in its branch structure and no flaking bark yet, but I love it regardless.
+Mia M. W. That's the spirit!
i just started growing bonsai. i decided to grow a willow from a cutting. this is super helpfull. thank you Nigel😃
I LOVE your videos. Just so informative
Thanks so much taught me a lot about the willow cuttings I have propagating
My willows are coming to life too! I am very happy that they survived the winter. I'm thinking about shooting my first video soon, when the "real spring" will come. Thank you for your video.
+BonsaiMoldova Awesome, I look forward to your thoughts and ideas!
i don't know which species we had in Wisconsin, but they were beautiful. the branches weeped to the ground. we always knew them as truly "weeping" willows becase they looked sad yet elegant in winter. if you know, id love to make a bonsai from one.
Hello Nigel - Your channel has been tremendously helpful. Your videos are also quite relaxing and enjoyable to watch. Thank you for the time and effort that you put into creating this content for us. I have a lot of questions for you which I'll pose in the appropriate new videos as they are posted.
For this willow - I noticed that your surface root development/trunk flare techniques have not had been as effective as with some of your other trees. I also have a willow in early development and it just kind of shoots straight down into the soil. There are actually no roots for the first inch or so below the soil line, but I don't want to raise the planting level because there is actually a bit of reverse taper just above the roots. I'm tempted to air layer it at the thickest point in the lower trunk.
What do you think about surface root development on your tree and willows in general? Does the deep root growth limit surface root development?
+Mark Mondrinos Hello Mark, I think the surface root development will come slowly with time. Because the willow started as a cutting, the surface roots are way behind the trunk in development. This also happens with air layering, it takes many years before the surface roots look good. All we can do on the willows is keep pruning the roots flat on the bottom with every re potting and they should slowly get thick and develop bark in time. I think a good solid root flare will really add to the look of the tree. The cutting that I started from a small branch should have a better root balance as it gets older. Thanks and I look forward to more questions!
Great idea with the clothes pegs, Never thought of this. Thanks.
Do you know if weeping cherries can be propagated in the same manner as a weeping willow? are there other plants that root so easily?
+Luke Sneeringer Few trees root as easily as the Willow tree, but many can be started in water. Check out this article...
homeguides.sfgate.com/propagate-weeping-japanese-cherries-47473.html
I'm looking to see if your clothes pin idea worked for making the willow branches weep. Did it? Is there a video showing it? Love your videos!
There is a video showing the clothes pins!
th-cam.com/video/flrpU0ViD5Y/w-d-xo.html
Nigel, I always enjoy your Willow videos. I have a question that is not exactly on topic, but I thought i'd leave it here. I had a Willow cutting growing last year that subsequently died in late summer. Late last fall/early winter, i tried to take several larger cuttings, about 1/2 to 3/4 inch in diameter and none of them took (they were kept indoors, though were taken from the parent tree after it was dormant).
Do you know 1) if there will be a good time this spring to try again for a larger cutting? 2) Do you happen to know if larger cuttings work on Willows? (or if there's any advice as to what to plant them in, or how to keep them alive while rooting). My other option may be buying a willow from a landscape center since they're usually cheap around here. Note: I am about 900 miles west of you in Minnesota if that tells you anything about the climate.
Another note: The cuttings that did not make it were planted in diotomaceous earth and pine bark which is my standard mix.
Thanks! Looking forward to all of your spring videos
+Jason Garver Hi Jason, I would start my cuttings in just plain rain water. I have one cutting that has been sitting in water for two winters now and it is growing well. After you get a good root mass in just water, root prune and top prune the cutting and plant it in your soil mixture. The soil mixture must have a bowel or tray of water under neath it, that will keep the soil constantly wet until the roots adapt to the soil. Any size cutting will work on a willow tree, even a 6" dia. will root well in a bucket of water. With a large cutting you will get a hollow trunk tree, as the center will slowly rot away at the top and bottom saw cuts. A smaller cutting will heal over before any rot begins at the center of the cutting. Cuttings do best in spring, but can be taken any time of the year if they are placed in a bright warm spot. Hope you have good luck with your second batch.
+Nigel Saunders Thanks Nigel! I will try starting the cuttings in rain water this time. I inspected several willows today, and their buds are just starting to extend and open. Also, very good to know about the trunk rot - That could be very interesting for an old gnarled willow.
Thanks again!
So this is my second year of doing bonsai. My first tree was a Japanese maple. However, I've always wanted a weeping willow tree. I have a question though, to train a weeping willow. Is it best to begin as a cutting? And what would be the best way to select a cutting?
A collected tree would be even better, if you can find one small enough, they will root from any size cutting and with a cutting you can be sure to get a good even radial root base. It is hard finding a good cutting, most branches are long and straight with no taper. You can occasionally see a good short branch on the side of a mature tree, one that keeps suckering from the same spot.
Great information on willow trees. Why do you not prune back close to nodes and branch stems? does CODIT not apply to bonsai trees? Thanks
After the cut is made on the branch, the stub of the branch remains alive for a while until it dies back to a point where there is sap flow, usually the first branch or bud. By leaving a stub, it gives the tree time to re route the flow of sap to this bud or branch while the piece above this point begins to die back. By the time the die back reaches the bud or branch you want to keep, the bud or branch is already growing and receiving the full sap flow. If you were to cut to the exact point you want, the bud or branch may dry up and die, before getting the sap flowing to it. I remove the dried up stub from pruning at a later date to make it flush. That's my theory at the moment.
Thanks very much for that information Nigel. I am new to Bonsai trees. Love watching your very informative videos. I am learning alot from you. Take care. Oliver
Amazing tree. Nice job!
Nice work Nigel!
Nigel, would you be able to do a video or section of video on the different types of moss that you use and how you cultivate it. Some of your moss is very long and shaggy looking, which is a look that I really like. Thanks in advance!
+mkrizzz I'll be doing a video on ground covers soon. I'll talk about the mosses then. Thanks for a good suggestion!
Great! Im especially interested in the moss that was on you ficus religiosa video from July 2014
Is there a video where you talk specifically about dormancy? The best situation for temp/ lighting/water while dormant?
I don't think I have a specific video, but somewhere in the videos I have talked about it!
Hi Nigel! how often do you prune this tree? I also have a willow and it grows like crazy!
In the peak of the growing season, I'm pruning the willow almost once a week. I let the shoots grow 3 to 4 inches and then prune back to the first pair of leaves.
Okay awesome thanks for replying right away
Are you close to Niagara falls?
Mark Leo jr Not really, it's a 3 hour drive to the falls. We visit the falls every now and then just for fun!
+Nigel Saunders I live in Niagara falls usa. But yes Niagara falls Canada is a nice place to visit.
hey Nigel I didn't hear you mention this, but I'm curious to know how old this tree is. since I have to willows that have been growing for two years they're 2-3 feet tall but as thick as a pencil :( I'm thinking about making one of those as a windblown style
The tree is about 15 years old from a small cutting. Good luck with your tree, sounds great!
Wow that tree is 5 years younger than me lol. Thank you
Thanks Nigel, i was wondering how long can you leave your cuttings in the water for? mine have been in for a fair while but its not the best time of year here in Australia to repot
+Aleks Bonsai A good question. I have a few cuttings that I just never got around to potting. They have been sitting in water for two years. I have been fertilizing the water in the summer and the cuttings seem to be growing really well. My guess is you could keep the cuttings in water for many years without hurting the health of the tree.
+Nigel Saunders wow! that is a long time. i guess they will be safe until spring then. thank you
Hello Nigel, amazing videos. I was just wondering about your soil recipe. I am looking for a good mix to start replanting my pre-bonsai.
+Lou L Check out the soil video, here is the link.
th-cam.com/video/p522AYawgOI/w-d-xo.html
great video love it :)
Hello Nigel! i was wondering, when do you think is the best time to start some willow cuttings?
+crippledsquirel2564 Almost any time is a good time for willows, they will root in spring summer and fall. Spring is probably the best time, I would take your cuttings right now and stick them in rain water with full sun. Good luck, you can take any size cutting, but if they are too big, you might get the middle of the trunk rotting out before it heals over.
okay, thankyou for your advice! much appreciated.
great video my friend a hug and beautiful weekend for you and family...
Tonny Fênix
Hi Nigel. Can you tell me where I can get a willow bonsai pot with a reservoir like yours? Thanks
This is a mica pot and the tray underneath is a cake cover!!! It just happened to fit well!
How often is watered weeping wilow bonsai?
They like a free draining soil and to be watered as often as possible. The best method is to use a drip line that constantly water's them and feeds them all day long!
Do you have any tips on moving water rooted willow cuttings into soil? It seems everything I try ends up killing the cutting.
+Alex Mindock After you put the cutting in the pot with your bonsai soil, place a container of water underneath the pot. the soil will draw up the water and keep the soil wet. Slowly you can ween the tree and pot off of the water container if you like. The tree will grow better with the water always underneath it all through the summer.
Nigel Saunders I've been keeping my cuttings inside because I live on a collage campus. Would you suggest high/low light? Or should I try to keep them outside?
Also, with the pot in a container of water, should I continue to water the cuttings or should I rely on the container of water to keep them hydrated?
+Alex Mindock If you can keep them outside in full sun, it would be best. Indoors, they may sprout new growth, but without full sun, the cuttings will go downhill. I water my willow from above, mainly to keep the pot of water full. The willow will use a lot of water in the summer, be careful on hot sunny days.
Ordered a 8 inch stick .placed it in water as directed . Within a month roots had spread and greenery had sprouted and now (1 month) I have a tree with 12 inch greenery growing very well. I am new to Bonzai . Should I begin to trim the tree or just let it grow for the next few months.
6I have moved the tree into a pot about 2 inches deep in dirt and about 6 inches above above the dirt. Maybe leave it alone or for a few months.
Update?
willow shouldn't freeze... mine stays out all year
nice branch growth
How to post pictures of my bonsai??
You can send pics to...
thekwbonsaisociety@gmail.com
Thanks!
Nigel Saunders, The Bonsai Zone hi
first
Rip to that beautiful apex
Yes, it was fun creating the tree and it looked good while it lasted!