Good information Mike. Especially the warning about hanging onto the chuck when retracting from a hole. Thank you for sharing. Have a great day and stay safe.
Thank You Mike, for another great video. By far, I've learned the most about wood turning from your videos, even bought a Revo 1216 and love it. Keep up the great work, I'm sure for each person like me, there are hundreds more that haven't expressed their appreciation for one reason or another. You are much appreciated.
Thanks, Mike, I found that useful despite being familiar with all but one technique. Using the spindle gouge looked really fast, and whilst I have seen it demonstrated many times, have never felt confident with the technique, and have used it only a couple of times. So more practice on that listed. Never used a handled drill bit, so far. The new item was the long drill steady; potentially very useful to me. Good to emphasise making a centre divot first. Thanks again. Bernard.
Same about the spindle gouge. Even though I'm quite confident he knows what he's doing (better than me) I still get a mild sense of creeping dread any time I see someone pick up a skew or spindle gouge and point it at the endgrain.
@@smockytubers1188 It is just the fear of the unknown. Sometimes we are afraid of something that looks scary and is not but should b afraid of things that really are dangerous because we are unaware of the risks.
Great video, Mike! The suggestion to keep the left hand on the drill chuck is critical, but the chuck can still spin, and if its a keyed chuck, the outer diameter is rough and can hurt. DAMHIKT! I always wear a kevlar 'carver's' glove on my left hand when drilling to protect my hand. The tailstock on some smaller lathes has a bit of 'wiggle' typically less than a degree, but still enough to be a problem when drilling. The solution is simple - center the bit on that dimple before locking down the tailstock. Forstner bits are ideally meant for drilling face grain. Drilling large holes in end grain with Forstner's is tough work. It helps to drill a small hole first, and then up in steps to reach the final diameter. And I seem to recall a wise person saying that twist drills work better in end-grain if the hole is 1" or smaller. Finally, when drilling long shafts (eg, for walking canes) on lathes with a short bed, a trick that I have used is to make the piece in segments that are ultimately glued together using dowels. The trick is to get a good match at the joins. I find that if I make the segments short enough, I can dry-fit two together and mount the combination between centers for final sizing of the diameters - often using only sandpaper. Grain match is another thing - I will sometimes insert a short segment of contrasting wood to celebrate the join rather than try to get a perfect grain match.
And one more point - if you are using a Jacobs chuck, NEVER leave the key in the chuck while drilling. If the chuck starts rotating, the key will fly out and Murphy's Law says your face will be the target!
Thank you so much. I was turning my very first pen and whilst drilling, the chuck got stuck in the blank and came out snapping my bit. For the life of me I could not figure out what I had done wrong. Your video has cleared that up. Keep your hand on the chuck while retracting it. Thank you!!
Hey mike any advice how to drill long grain on the lathe? I turned some traditionel wood thread dowels intended for leg vices for a woodworkers bench. Is it best drilled on a drill press with a very large vice? The diameter is 5 inches and the hole is 1 inch and 1/8"
Nice vid. - at 11:33, important not to hold the flutes of the drill (as you've shown). My tailstock is MT1 and sometimes the chuck holding the drill will come free, so the drill will turn at the speed of the headstock. If your fingers are on the flutes when that happens, you get cut :( Not so much of a problem with larger morse tapers. Thanks for posting. :)
Excellent information. I was going to comment on your different types of drill chucks video: One of the reasons I have two drill chucks is so I can quickly and easily switch between two drill bits. For example, when drilling I like to start with a 'center drill bit', before switching to a standard twist bit. Center bits are short and stout, making drilling precisely centered holes simple and easy. With two drill chucks, I can have one with the center bit and the other with the standard twist bit. If I'm just drilling one blank, I probably won't bother with this. But, if I'm batching out a bunch of blanks, I really like this approach.
An additional thought: Many lathes have hollow tailstock quills. Many live centers are hollow, too. If you take the point out of the live center, you can mount the blank between centers and drill the blank through the tailstock. The type of drill bit used for this kind of work is commonly called a 'lamp drill' or a 'lamp auger'. This allows you to drill a fairly long blank on a fairly small lathe. The only limitation is the diameter of the hole is limited by what can go through the tailstock/live center. Generally, the maximum diameter is 3/8".
Axminster sells these deep drilling thru the TS accessories. I have only done one lamp and so that is an expense I will pass on. Great for production lamp making for sure.
@@MikePeaceWoodturning These accessories are, indeed, expensive, but very satisfying to use. I have the (now discontinued) Record Power 5/16" kit; also a 10mm spiral auger, from a dump bin. They allow roughly18" borings, should such be required. As an intermediate step, I also possess approximately 8" brad point bits, for which I shall now try the steady mentioned in the video. Bernard.
The problem with the jacobs chuck coming out happened to me tonight. Only damage was the drill broke at the neck of the hole leaving the drill bit inside the hole and flung the Jacobs chuck to the side of the shop. Just needed some expertise from you Mr Peace to avoid that error happening again.
Trying to purchase via your affiliate links (like to help out and buy recommended products) but many of your links are out of stock with no availability dates) and one is an incorrect link reference. Thanks for the excellent videos!
Thanks for your support. It is a challenge to keep the links working as vendors come and go and supply chain disruptions have certainly been a challenge the past couple of years.
Occasionally, the chuck or morse taper drill bit will rotate in the tailstock if the bit gets hung up in the work. Holding the chuck helps prevent that. Holding a Morse taper drill bit by hand is a potential disaster, and I use a wrench.
Very informative videos!!! You have mentioned your Amazon store in some videos. How can I find it?
Thanks for asking. You can find the link in the video description area on every video. Here is the link www.amazon.com/shop/mikepeacewoodturning
@@MikePeaceWoodturning TYVM!!!
Good information Mike. Especially the warning about hanging onto the chuck when retracting from a hole. Thank you for sharing. Have a great day and stay safe.
You bet!
Thank You Mike, for another great video. By far, I've learned the most about wood turning from your videos, even bought a Revo 1216 and love it. Keep up the great work, I'm sure for each person like me, there are hundreds more that haven't expressed their appreciation for one reason or another. You are much appreciated.
Thanks so much for the encouragement, Andrew!
Excellent job. The video was more than a refresher, there was info I didn't know.
Glad to hear it!
Great advice Mike! I learned a lot of what I can and can't do with my lathe.
Glad to help
Your motto should be “necessity is the mother of invention “. Thanks for sharing.
You bet
Mike peace is my woodturning guru!
Thanks Mike, I appreciate you sharing all your knowledge.
I appreciate that!
Hey Mike, like your idea using a 'cross pocket' jig. do you have a video showing how you made it? Phil
No. I do have one on turning a Morse taper mandrel.
A lot of good tips Mike,thanks for sharing,cheers
Colin.
Glad it was helpful!
Thanks, Mike, I found that useful despite being familiar with all but one technique. Using the spindle gouge looked really fast, and whilst I have seen it demonstrated many times, have never felt confident with the technique, and have used it only a couple of times. So more practice on that listed. Never used a handled drill bit, so far. The new item was the long drill steady; potentially very useful to me. Good to emphasise making a centre divot first. Thanks again. Bernard.
Glad it was helpful, Bernard!
Same about the spindle gouge. Even though I'm quite confident he knows what he's doing (better than me) I still get a mild sense of creeping dread any time I see someone pick up a skew or spindle gouge and point it at the endgrain.
@@smockytubers1188 It is just the fear of the unknown. Sometimes we are afraid of something that looks scary and is not but should b afraid of things that really are dangerous because we are unaware of the risks.
More great ideas Mike ..... thanks for sharing.
Glad you like them!
Thank you, Mike!
Welcome!
Thank you for the helpful guidance.
You're most welcome!
Great video, Mike!
The suggestion to keep the left hand on the drill chuck is critical, but the chuck can still spin, and if its a keyed chuck, the outer diameter is rough and can hurt. DAMHIKT! I always wear a kevlar 'carver's' glove on my left hand when drilling to protect my hand.
The tailstock on some smaller lathes has a bit of 'wiggle' typically less than a degree, but still enough to be a problem when drilling. The solution is simple - center the bit on that dimple before locking down the tailstock.
Forstner bits are ideally meant for drilling face grain. Drilling large holes in end grain with Forstner's is tough work. It helps to drill a small hole first, and then up in steps to reach the final diameter. And I seem to recall a wise person saying that twist drills work better in end-grain if the hole is 1" or smaller.
Finally, when drilling long shafts (eg, for walking canes) on lathes with a short bed, a trick that I have used is to make the piece in segments that are ultimately glued together using dowels. The trick is to get a good match at the joins. I find that if I make the segments short enough, I can dry-fit two together and mount the combination between centers for final sizing of the diameters - often using only sandpaper. Grain match is another thing - I will sometimes insert a short segment of contrasting wood to celebrate the join rather than try to get a perfect grain match.
And one more point - if you are using a Jacobs chuck, NEVER leave the key in the chuck while drilling. If the chuck starts rotating, the key will fly out and Murphy's Law says your face will be the target!
Thanks for sharing your experience, Louie!
Thanks
Welcome
Thank you so much. I was turning my very first pen and whilst drilling, the chuck got stuck in the blank and came out snapping my bit. For the life of me I could not figure out what I had done wrong. Your video has cleared that up. Keep your hand on the chuck while retracting it. Thank you!!
Glad it helped. Stay safe my friend.
Great info, thanks Mike
You bet!
Hi. When I drill holes about 140mm long 7mm diameter it goes skew. How can I do better? Thanks. Your videos are very helpful.
I do not have an answer but you might check out this video th-cam.com/video/7fQPA0Jggy8/w-d-xo.html
Good tips Mike!👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍😎😎😎😎😎
Thanks 👍
Good info Mike.
Take care
Cheers
Harold
Thanks, Harold.
Hey mike any advice how to drill long grain on the lathe? I turned some traditionel wood thread dowels intended for leg vices for a woodworkers bench. Is it best drilled on a drill press with a very large vice? The diameter is 5 inches and the hole is 1 inch and 1/8"
Whichever is the easiest. Both can drill holes equally.
Nice vid. - at 11:33, important not to hold the flutes of the drill (as you've shown). My tailstock is MT1 and sometimes the chuck holding the drill will come free, so the drill will turn at the speed of the headstock. If your fingers are on the flutes when that happens, you get cut :( Not so much of a problem with larger morse tapers. Thanks for posting. :)
Great tip! Folks don't know what they do not know!
Great video Mike.
Thanks 👍
Excellent information. I was going to comment on your different types of drill chucks video: One of the reasons I have two drill chucks is so I can quickly and easily switch between two drill bits. For example, when drilling I like to start with a 'center drill bit', before switching to a standard twist bit. Center bits are short and stout, making drilling precisely centered holes simple and easy. With two drill chucks, I can have one with the center bit and the other with the standard twist bit. If I'm just drilling one blank, I probably won't bother with this. But, if I'm batching out a bunch of blanks, I really like this approach.
Good idea, David. Like a drill bit in one electric drill and a screw driver bit in another.
An additional thought: Many lathes have hollow tailstock quills. Many live centers are hollow, too. If you take the point out of the live center, you can mount the blank between centers and drill the blank through the tailstock. The type of drill bit used for this kind of work is commonly called a 'lamp drill' or a 'lamp auger'. This allows you to drill a fairly long blank on a fairly small lathe. The only limitation is the diameter of the hole is limited by what can go through the tailstock/live center. Generally, the maximum diameter is 3/8".
Axminster sells these deep drilling thru the TS accessories. I have only done one lamp and so that is an expense I will pass on. Great for production lamp making for sure.
@@MikePeaceWoodturning These accessories are, indeed, expensive, but very satisfying to use. I have the (now discontinued) Record Power 5/16" kit; also a 10mm spiral auger, from a dump bin. They allow roughly18" borings, should such be required. As an intermediate step, I also possess approximately 8" brad point bits, for which I shall now try the steady mentioned in the video. Bernard.
The problem with the jacobs chuck coming out happened to me tonight. Only damage was the drill broke at the neck of the hole leaving the drill bit inside the hole and flung the Jacobs chuck to the side of the shop. Just needed some expertise from you Mr Peace to avoid that error happening again.
Oh, No. Glad you were not hurt.
Where do you get your jacket/smock that you have on?
Ebay. ACU (Army Combat Uniform) jacket. Get a long so it will cover your pockets.
Trying to purchase via your affiliate links (like to help out and buy recommended products) but many of your links are out of stock with no availability dates) and one is an incorrect link reference. Thanks for the excellent videos!
Thanks for your support. It is a challenge to keep the links working as vendors come and go and supply chain disruptions have certainly been a challenge the past couple of years.
Occasionally, the chuck or morse taper drill bit will rotate in the tailstock if the bit gets hung up in the work. Holding the chuck helps prevent that. Holding a Morse taper drill bit by hand is a potential disaster, and I use a wrench.
Totally, agree.
I LOVE the crotch pocket! Thanks
Welcome!
I see you have an old Sears trash can still around. Lol
I had forgotten where I got it but have had it for 40 years!