Man it’s that passive aggressive tone that’s the worst. He built the friggin table! Does she not think he can repair it? “The table is destroyed” a little exaggerated no?
Helpful tip. I’m sure Jason did it off camera, sure compressed air to blow out the hole to get rid of the concrete dust otherwise your glue will stick to the dust instead of the concrete. Bonus points if you use a wire brush to clean the hole too.
@@DustinWillpretty sure epoxy was completely unnecessary for this application. I’ve never seen a wedge anchor being epoxied in place. That’s what the wedge does.
I love these projects because they’re relevant! For ie, I’ve watched plenty of pergola builds with a multitude of ways to anchor posts but what wasn’t ever mentioned was the need to have footers beneath the post bracket! I had no idea, I wrongly assumed I could drill into my old concrete pad in the back for posts so thank you for sharing that bit of info and I really appreciate building the right way using timber framing or the wood itself to notch into each other, makes for a stronger and more beautiful connection which is far better than any ugly bracket
Sooo currently in the process of building a deck and spent 11 years sellimg hardware like hurricane ties at lowes....what hurrice ties or "simpson strong ties" do is provide a conection point without actual connecting the two pieces mechanically so that they can move independently of one another so a joist hanger for example is mechanically attached to the beam and to the joist but the joist and beam are not mechanically joined together. That way if their are strong winds the two piece can move independently and not blow out the whole joint.....as to looking bad, simpson makes an entire line in stainless black that looks like wrought iron for exposed pieces that looks really cool.
You drunk the cool aid hard, often you still need to toe nail timber together, plus brackets… what’s been around for hundreds of years mortise and tenons etc, seen a lot more action than a Simpson strong tie… but yes they have a place, I’m with the man doing the filming tho, can often look ugly….
13:54 I always paint joist hangers and brackets with a quick coat of black spray paint before nailing. Make's decks, and timber framing look 100 times better.
Shear strength is as simple as this - nails can bend, screws snap. If the joint is likely to move due to load or warping, it's best to use nails as well as screws as a backup incase the screws shear. Or you can design a way to use some beefy old lag bolts. By far the strongest joints for beams of these dimensions (although not sure about use with gluelam) is to mortice and tenon as they can move and deform with the joint maintaining strength and simple to repair if need be. There are European buildings with original structural beams still in use that are 700+ years old and still strong thanks to all wooden joints.
lag bolts are just awesome (and in 90% of the cases 100% over-engineered, but will do the job way better than those "construction screws") -- otherwise I agree with mixing screws/nails (even though I'm absolutely no fan of nails :D ... still in this case yeah :) )
The simplistic notion that nails bend and screws break is overused and quite frankly not even wrong* (google that one). Nails cannot draw boards together and resist pullout like screws do. The strength of a screwed (or bolted) joint doesn't depend that much on the shear strength of the fastener, due to the compression and friction of board. The stiffness of the assembly will also prevent unwanted gaps that created leverage and movement from working the fastener out. Nails may yield for longer, but that means the joint already separated in the first place. With wood, the failure is most often in the substrate, not the fastener. (Exception : very cheap screws and drywall screws) Don't use interior fasteners outside, and use load rated screws or better carriage or lag bolts, ideally with actual continuous load paths or joinery.
Not many people know this but timber framing doesn’t use metal fasteners. Rather, it uses mortise and tenon joinery and hardwood pegs. What you’re building is a post and beam structure.
Half post and beam. The knee braces should have been mortised in too, and the lags should’ve been pegs to make it true timber frame joinery. Also, some of the techniques are non-traditional, eg the post could have been half-lapped to reduce the rabbet size in the beam. No biggie. If you’re interested in this type of construction, I suggest The Shelter Institute’s TH-cam channel. It’s pretty amazing how they’ve improved the traditional processes for very fast green timber framing, to reduce a multi-year process to weeks. Also, RR Buildings is another amazing channel. They’ve invented some amazing modern timber framing improvements to traditional pole barn construction, like using brackets to mount the posts on concrete piers to prevent rot over time, which you see an adaptation of here.
It's nice to see im not the only man that gets in big trouble with the misses when doing a project around the house. I too if left unsupervised do some squirrely things without really thinking through or planning. It generally turns out fine, but not without a lecture from the wife.
I'm doing a much smaller version of this as an awning over my barn's front door, and this video was extremely helpful. I now know exactly what I need to do!
Nice work. A palm nailer makes quick work of those structural nails in the brackets. One minor suggestion. Counterbore those structural screws and plug them so they look like wooden pins used in a traditional timber frame. I wish we could get Douglas Fir beams here in the southeast. That is going to be beautiful.
When setting the posts to get them plumb, you can get a corner level which allows you plumb the posts in both planes at once. Yes it is best to double check with a longer level, but for roughing the post in they are a major time saver. Well worth the cost to do even 1 or 2 posts.
Norm Brams did much the same with mortise and tenden yrs ago for a pergola... he loved that joinery. btw: Concrete is made from sand, aggregate, Portland cement (a grey powder) and water. signed, retired CET & Grandma of 12
As a timber framer that built my house's frame with no metal fasteners, I have a lot of critiques, but I won't get into that. Fun to watch other people problem solve. If you'd asked me before you started, I'd have recommended picking up an old Ted Benson book. Even if it was just for your sawhorse placement, it would be worth the $20
Hi. I am doing a complete career change in my 50s and decided to go into carpentry/building. Back to school starts next summer (already have my acceptance letter) and will do so in the US, being from Western Europe (they don't build the same way here). I found your comment interesting, so I looked up Tedd Benson and just ordered a few books to prepare for what's to come. Thanks for the advice !!
@@Vurt.451 The old brown covered one is the best for learning timber framing, the other books are eye candy. Being in my 50s, as well, and building for 25 years, I do wish you luck. Also, timber framing isn't that common in the US, so I hope you are going to a proper timber framing class.
@@keithdavies52 Thank you very much for your reply. As you can imagine, at our age there is no time to go on a full three or four years apprenticeship ... I just couldn't financially afford that. So what I did is I signed up with a community college in Iowa (yes, I like it rural) for carpentry to begin with, then probably specialize "on the job" should I find a sponsor for an immigrant worker visa later on. My aim is to build my own house from scratch, probably an A-frame or something similar, with its own solar and rain-water collection systems. The long game would be to become a professional builder on my own and - once I have enough knowledge (and hopefully the talent) - to create my own company with a few likeminded people to build cabins and tiny homes for people with a small wallet. I am not looking to become a millionaire, I would be more than happy if all the bills are paid and the fridge is full every month ... which one can call "luxury" these days. Yes, I know, it's a dream for an instant, but every journey starts with the first step .... and I have never been in my life as motivated as I am now. I am ex military and think I bring the discipline to end what I start with me. Again, thanks a lot for your encouragements and best greetings from France.
@@keithdavies52 timber framed buildings are making a resurgence in Canada, I'm not sure about us. Rationale is green (concrete is terrible) and that the fire protection is better now than it was when structural codes "outlawed" them. I just cycled through Austria and they are leading globally in timber modular construction. @Vurt.451 you would do well to research programs and designs out of there if just for inspiration.
@@AdamizedBeats I was lucky because I went to engineering school and they also taught civil engineers and the civil engineers inevitably when they took that first class that explained concrete would always come back to the dorms and share their newfound knowledge. It got drilled into my head so well that when they put a new sidewalk in by my house my 4th grader came home and said hey dad, they used concrete for the new sidewalk instead of asphalt. That was a proud parenting moment.
@@bakerfx4968 and flour is the glue of the cake, right? Your username leads me to believe that you would know. :) my username was a college nickname that turned out to be a common Indian name so mine literally makes no sense.
A little concerned about waterproofing where you cut through to the framing on the siding. If water seeps around the brackets and rots the beam behind it over the years it might become a problem...perhaps,
Have the same concern, especially since he left the planks unprotected for so long after tearing out the original cover. Hopefully he caulks the heck out of them in the next episode, but the waterproof membrane is gone for good.
BTW, I love that you got rid of the simpson post to beam connectors and went with old style joinery! IMHO, perfectly acceptable for structural purposes of a patio roof.
Uplift from wind is a big problem in Oklahoma where I live, plus code generally requires a metal clip for hold down strength or one of the huge new structural screws that are like 6+ inches long into and through post into structural members (which you did). Plz, I hope you liquid or other flashing under siding to prevent water from getting behind the siding over time and rotting out your house…
you could've used a Simpson column cap that has a beam to beam connection. I think its called a Simpson ECCL that has an end connection. They offer more decorative ones as well. Edit: NVM it was more work but the notches and way you connected the beams look great
Concrete is what is poured. Cement is an ingredient in concrete. Concrete is typically cement, sand and rocks/gravel (aggregate) and water. Cement is what holds it all together and is about 10 to 15% of the entire mixture.
I remember last year when I was new to this channel and I would find these long form project all compete and ready for me to watch ...now I hv to wait in line like everybody else hmm
Most people get a permit to add a structure to their house and that requires drawings or blueprints which have to approved by the city engineer. Then you have inspections done at certain stages. Really adds a lot of cost but depending on where you live it might be for the best outcome. As always you did a great job. Everyone calling for flashing where the bracket and beam tie into the house. Don’t forget there will be a roof over this. That’s where the flashing comes into play.
Hoping to do the same thing this fall. Thanks for the video! Great job as usual!! Looking forward to the next video on this. Based on your wife’s reaction to the table, I am pretty sure your wife and my wife would get along great! They keep us grounded. 😂
Sir, I am glad to see your wife and mine seem to be on the same level of "supervisory expertisssssseeee". They are gems of significant importance. Take that statement for what you want.
About the shear strength, it is less complicated then it looks. A screw will hold better in the wood when pulled, but is more brittle then a nail. So for any use where the forces applied are perpendicular to the fastener, like with your brackets, nails are better and cheaper solution.
Over the years of outdoor construction I have found the easiest way to see where stuff should attach/go is a laser level. Ever since they came, my deck building has improved 200%. With an accuracy of 1/8 of inch over 50 feet, you can not go wrong.
This was another nice video. What I don't understand is that you make such beautiful and strong connections on the poles, but on the house side you trust a few short steel connection plates. And the 45 degree supports are only attached with four screws. Why not also solid wood-on-wood connections at those places that are important for the construction?
Concrete is cement, sand, water, and aggregate. Cement is like plaster. You wet it and it'll cure into a solid thing. The more you know. ;) Also, I feel ya on the not thinking things through part, except I seem to either not think them through or do too much thinking it through and never starting.
24:10 Just FYI Jason, that's NOT a sledgehammer! Sledgehammers are the huge two-handed ones that you raise above your head and swing vertically. What you have in your hand there is a lump hammer. Even hardware stores get this wrong, so I don't blame you. But a lot of people are shouting at their screens right now! :o)
I might be wrong, but I'd be concerned about what you're asking those joist-hangers to support. I'd put another diagonal brace from your existing house-posts to the glue-lam. A little insurance.
Yes! That is the weekest paprt of the structure. The oversized glued beam is useless if it is not properly fixed, but I suspect he'll add something to it in the next episode
What do yall do for air and water penetration sealing when you puncture your building envelope? I’ve seen a couple times where it appears the answer is “nothing”…
Wow! You have some really good friends to help you hang those beams. Hmmm, I will assume that you talked to a friend or a person with experience in building houses, to consider wind loads and weight of the beams attachment to the house. In some states you will have building permits and inspections of the build done. That is a beautiful house and you spent a lot of money to buy those beams. The porch structure, you would want to build the porch "to meet or exceed! local building code specifications". Carry On Sir and friends.
I dont know but i would have sunk a big ass lag bolt instead of that screw straight down to tie in the post to the beam coming off the house. Even the support between the 2 beams should have lag bolts. But i agreenwhat everyone else said about the decorative simpson ties. Not sure im with you on this one Jay!!!
I took construction classes in high school and my instructor’s name was Bob. Anytime I was building a wall I’d ask Bob if it looked plumb. Easiest way to get a wall plumb and level.
I'd be somewhat concerned that the patio will get a bit dark with a full roof above. Then again, I live in the north where sunshine and warmth is almost always welcome.
The Cement is the kind of Concrete. There's also Asphalt Concrete and Lime Concrete. I just learned that an hour from now. There might even be Cow Poo Concrete.
6:01 pro-tip put your hardware, washer and nut prior to hammering in your bolt else you run the risk of mushrooming the bolt and won't be able to get the nut on without 10 minutes with a grinder.
Redoing a patio yourself can be a fulfilling and cost-effective project, potentially saving you thousands of dollars in labor costs while giving you the freedom to customize every detail.
“It’s fine”, probably the final words of many man.
lololol
"Hold my beer" is another final phrase.
It warms my heart that you left that discussion 2:06 in
She sounds lovely
@@danwooller6101 total keeper
Yeah, literally no reason to talk to someone like that. I get super pissy. she's just trying to start a fight.
😂 really? She is just fine. You guys are trying to judge her based on one snippet of a convo you heard. Gtfo.
@@dzenissahovic7784 THANK YOU! haha. She sounds fine!
Hahahaha this all to relatable. Glad too see I’m not the only one getting in trouble during renovations
Man it’s that passive aggressive tone that’s the worst. He built the friggin table! Does she not think he can repair it? “The table is destroyed” a little exaggerated no?
Helpful tip. I’m sure Jason did it off camera, sure compressed air to blow out the hole to get rid of the concrete dust otherwise your glue will stick to the dust instead of the concrete. Bonus points if you use a wire brush to clean the hole too.
The vacuum was used if you look closely.
Is epoxy really helpful for a wedge anchor? I thought epoxy was for all-thread - not enough room for epoxy and all. No?
@@DustinWillpretty sure epoxy was completely unnecessary for this application. I’ve never seen a wedge anchor being epoxied in place. That’s what the wedge does.
I used a small can of that computer cleaner compressed air, beats hauling around a big or even small electric one.
Brush blow x3 or just use a 10” titen and drill an extra 1”
I love these projects because they’re relevant! For ie, I’ve watched plenty of pergola builds with a multitude of ways to anchor posts but what wasn’t ever mentioned was the need to have footers beneath the post bracket! I had no idea, I wrongly assumed I could drill into my old concrete pad in the back for posts so thank you for sharing that bit of info and I really appreciate building the right way using timber framing or the wood itself to notch into each other, makes for a stronger and more beautiful connection which is far better than any ugly bracket
The discussion with your wife brought this so much closer to home! So I'm not the only one! :) Great stuff.
Sooo currently in the process of building a deck and spent 11 years sellimg hardware like hurricane ties at lowes....what hurrice ties or "simpson strong ties" do is provide a conection point without actual connecting the two pieces mechanically so that they can move independently of one another so a joist hanger for example is mechanically attached to the beam and to the joist but the joist and beam are not mechanically joined together. That way if their are strong winds the two piece can move independently and not blow out the whole joint.....as to looking bad, simpson makes an entire line in stainless black that looks like wrought iron for exposed pieces that looks really cool.
I was hoping someone would explain that part of things better than I could.
You drunk the cool aid hard, often you still need to toe nail timber together, plus brackets… what’s been around for hundreds of years mortise and tenons etc, seen a lot more action than a Simpson strong tie… but yes they have a place, I’m with the man doing the filming tho, can often look ugly….
Thx for that added bit of info 👍
Imagine installing a 20 foot beam in a 20 foot wide kitchen remodel with 2 people and some ratchet straps. It was a great learning experience
You should 100% make a second channel, where it's just your wife reacting to your incredible dialogue 😂🎉
Renting that scaffold was a game changer. I've been racking my brain about how to safely assemble my carport. Good humor, great video, nice job!
13:54 I always paint joist hangers and brackets with a quick coat of black spray paint before nailing. Make's decks, and timber framing look 100 times better.
Shear strength is as simple as this - nails can bend, screws snap. If the joint is likely to move due to load or warping, it's best to use nails as well as screws as a backup incase the screws shear. Or you can design a way to use some beefy old lag bolts. By far the strongest joints for beams of these dimensions (although not sure about use with gluelam) is to mortice and tenon as they can move and deform with the joint maintaining strength and simple to repair if need be. There are European buildings with original structural beams still in use that are 700+ years old and still strong thanks to all wooden joints.
lag bolts are just awesome (and in 90% of the cases 100% over-engineered, but will do the job way better than those "construction screws") -- otherwise I agree with mixing screws/nails (even though I'm absolutely no fan of nails :D ... still in this case yeah :) )
The simplistic notion that nails bend and screws break is overused and quite frankly not even wrong* (google that one). Nails cannot draw boards together and resist pullout like screws do. The strength of a screwed (or bolted) joint doesn't depend that much on the shear strength of the fastener, due to the compression and friction of board. The stiffness of the assembly will also prevent unwanted gaps that created leverage and movement from working the fastener out. Nails may yield for longer, but that means the joint already separated in the first place.
With wood, the failure is most often in the substrate, not the fastener. (Exception : very cheap screws and drywall screws)
Don't use interior fasteners outside, and use load rated screws or better carriage or lag bolts, ideally with actual continuous load paths or joinery.
That analogy is wrong to many variables to make blanket statements.
Not many people know this but timber framing doesn’t use metal fasteners. Rather, it uses mortise and tenon joinery and hardwood pegs. What you’re building is a post and beam structure.
Half post and beam. The knee braces should have been mortised in too, and the lags should’ve been pegs to make it true timber frame joinery. Also, some of the techniques are non-traditional, eg the post could have been half-lapped to reduce the rabbet size in the beam. No biggie.
If you’re interested in this type of construction, I suggest The Shelter Institute’s TH-cam channel. It’s pretty amazing how they’ve improved the traditional processes for very fast green timber framing, to reduce a multi-year process to weeks.
Also, RR Buildings is another amazing channel. They’ve invented some amazing modern timber framing improvements to traditional pole barn construction, like using brackets to mount the posts on concrete piers to prevent rot over time, which you see an adaptation of here.
It's nice to see im not the only man that gets in big trouble with the misses when doing a project around the house. I too if left unsupervised do some squirrely things without really thinking through or planning. It generally turns out fine, but not without a lecture from the wife.
I'm doing a much smaller version of this as an awning over my barn's front door, and this video was extremely helpful. I now know exactly what I need to do!
Nice work. A palm nailer makes quick work of those structural nails in the brackets. One minor suggestion. Counterbore those structural screws and plug them so they look like wooden pins used in a traditional timber frame. I wish we could get Douglas Fir beams here in the southeast. That is going to be beautiful.
Dad! You broke the Freaking Table!!!! yea, I love it. I'm glad you left all that "extra" content in there. makes it feel like real life.
When setting the posts to get them plumb, you can get a corner level which allows you plumb the posts in both planes at once. Yes it is best to double check with a longer level, but for roughing the post in they are a major time saver. Well worth the cost to do even 1 or 2 posts.
Norm Brams did much the same with mortise and tenden yrs ago for a pergola... he loved that joinery.
btw: Concrete is made from sand, aggregate, Portland cement (a grey powder) and water.
signed, retired CET & Grandma of 12
When hammering any threaded material (your anchors), I was always taught to put a nut on top so you don't damage the threads
Are we ever going to see the finished interior of the treehouse?
If I had to wager a guess, that’s a fall/winter project. Oregon seasons/weather has a way of setting your priorities for you 😂
As a person who is planning on building a porch for my backyard soon this gave me all kinds of good ideas. Thanks my dood and great vid.
As a timber framer that built my house's frame with no metal fasteners, I have a lot of critiques, but I won't get into that. Fun to watch other people problem solve. If you'd asked me before you started, I'd have recommended picking up an old Ted Benson book. Even if it was just for your sawhorse placement, it would be worth the $20
Hi. I am doing a complete career change in my 50s and decided to go into carpentry/building. Back to school starts next summer (already have my acceptance letter) and will do so in the US, being from Western Europe (they don't build the same way here). I found your comment interesting, so I looked up Tedd Benson and just ordered a few books to prepare for what's to come. Thanks for the advice !!
@@Vurt.451 The old brown covered one is the best for learning timber framing, the other books are eye candy. Being in my 50s, as well, and building for 25 years, I do wish you luck. Also, timber framing isn't that common in the US, so I hope you are going to a proper timber framing class.
@@keithdavies52 Thank you very much for your reply. As you can imagine, at our age there is no time to go on a full three or four years apprenticeship ... I just couldn't financially afford that. So what I did is I signed up with a community college in Iowa (yes, I like it rural) for carpentry to begin with, then probably specialize "on the job" should I find a sponsor for an immigrant worker visa later on.
My aim is to build my own house from scratch, probably an A-frame or something similar, with its own solar and rain-water collection systems. The long game would be to become a professional builder on my own and - once I have enough knowledge (and hopefully the talent) - to create my own company with a few likeminded people to build cabins and tiny homes for people with a small wallet. I am not looking to become a millionaire, I would be more than happy if all the bills are paid and the fridge is full every month ... which one can call "luxury" these days.
Yes, I know, it's a dream for an instant, but every journey starts with the first step .... and I have never been in my life as motivated as I am now. I am ex military and think I bring the discipline to end what I start with me.
Again, thanks a lot for your encouragements and best greetings from France.
@@keithdavies52 timber framed buildings are making a resurgence in Canada, I'm not sure about us. Rationale is green (concrete is terrible) and that the fire protection is better now than it was when structural codes "outlawed" them.
I just cycled through Austria and they are leading globally in timber modular construction. @Vurt.451 you would do well to research programs and designs out of there if just for inspiration.
Now we need to see you build the drawers for this massive table.
I bought your bourbon blade for my brother, who does a lot of woodworking. He said it's pretty cool. He can see it coming in really handy.
Cement is to concrete as flour is to cake. That's how it was taught to me: concrete is a cake and cement is the flour.
Ya that and to just think about cement as the glue
Thank you rajon! Good to know info! I was always looking about what's the difference between cement and concrete lmao
@@AdamizedBeats I was lucky because I went to engineering school and they also taught civil engineers and the civil engineers inevitably when they took that first class that explained concrete would always come back to the dorms and share their newfound knowledge. It got drilled into my head so well that when they put a new sidewalk in by my house my 4th grader came home and said hey dad, they used concrete for the new sidewalk instead of asphalt. That was a proud parenting moment.
Yes Portland cement is mixed with gravel sand and water to make concrete...but I like your analogy better.
@@bakerfx4968 and flour is the glue of the cake, right? Your username leads me to believe that you would know. :) my username was a college nickname that turned out to be a common Indian name so mine literally makes no sense.
A little concerned about waterproofing where you cut through to the framing on the siding. If water seeps around the brackets and rots the beam behind it over the years it might become a problem...perhaps,
Have the same concern, especially since he left the planks unprotected for so long after tearing out the original cover. Hopefully he caulks the heck out of them in the next episode, but the waterproof membrane is gone for good.
THE FIRE PIT!
My first Bourbon Moth video!
Drinking game every time the fire pit is shown!
Got my Cinnamon Toast Crunch, Saturday morning woodworking is on!
Just an option, but Simpson makes decorative plates that can be purchased at most Lowes and Home Depot's for pergolas.
2:20 just gotta give her the ol’ razzle dazzle 🤣
cement is the dry stuff in concrete Concrete is a mix of cement, sand & gravel
BTW, I love that you got rid of the simpson post to beam connectors and went with old style joinery! IMHO, perfectly acceptable for structural purposes of a patio roof.
Uplift from wind is a big problem in Oklahoma where I live, plus code generally requires a metal clip for hold down strength or one of the huge new structural screws that are like 6+ inches long into and through post into structural members (which you did). Plz, I hope you liquid or other flashing under siding to prevent water from getting behind the siding over time and rotting out your house…
Thumbs up for showing your argument at the beginning. Real honesty in that clip!
1:48 Narrator: it was, in fact, not fine. 😂
you could've used a Simpson column cap that has a beam to beam connection. I think its called a Simpson ECCL that has an end connection. They offer more decorative ones as well.
Edit: NVM it was more work but the notches and way you connected the beams look great
I love the humour. Also a lot of good advice. Cheers
Concrete is what is poured. Cement is an ingredient in concrete. Concrete is typically cement, sand and rocks/gravel (aggregate) and water. Cement is what holds it all together and is about 10 to 15% of the entire mixture.
I remember last year when I was new to this channel and I would find these long form project all compete and ready for me to watch ...now I hv to wait in line like everybody else hmm
Most people get a permit to add a structure to their house and that requires drawings or blueprints which have to approved by the city engineer. Then you have inspections done at certain stages. Really adds a lot of cost but depending on where you live it might be for the best outcome. As always you did a great job. Everyone calling for flashing where the bracket and beam tie into the house. Don’t forget there will be a roof over this. That’s where the flashing comes into play.
make sure you get good water proofing up against the house. Michael Alm made a good video about how bad it can get if you dont water proof enough.
My only concern is there was no flashing in that bracket behind the siding and the beam. I’d hate to see the structural beam compromised by water
Nice quality hand saw that is sharp is the most rewarding way to do the second complete cut on your beam put muscles like that use hand tools
Hoping to do the same thing this fall. Thanks for the video! Great job as usual!! Looking forward to the next video on this. Based on your wife’s reaction to the table, I am pretty sure your wife and my wife would get along great! They keep us grounded. 😂
Sir, I am glad to see your wife and mine seem to be on the same level of "supervisory expertisssssseeee". They are gems of significant importance. Take that statement for what you want.
Did I miss the WRB and flashing behind the beam connection to the house?
Good watch! This is on my list of things to do.
I like the commercial at the end format.
About the shear strength, it is less complicated then it looks. A screw will hold better in the wood when pulled, but is more brittle then a nail. So for any use where the forces applied are perpendicular to the fastener, like with your brackets, nails are better and cheaper solution.
Really cool project. Looking forward to the rest of the build
Hey buddy
You should really put some flashing to help seal around the beam where it meats the how . Looks great
Good luck with the rest Jim
While I'm not a woodworker, I can't help loving the design of the Bourbon Blade. Pretty epic, bro.
Over the years of outdoor construction I have found the easiest way to see where stuff should attach/go is a laser level. Ever since they came, my deck building has improved 200%. With an accuracy of 1/8 of inch over 50 feet, you can not go wrong.
Dad you broke the freaking table!!!! Soooooo funny!!
Looks great , nice job
So far it’s beautiful!
This is the video I’ve been waiting for! I have a similar project in mind.
Looks nice!
Love the video. Just one question. How are you going to keep water from getting in behind your siding. I did not see any flashing installed.
Go to hell.
Was thinking the same thing, but then realized the flashing would tie into the roof that's coming, not the beam.
Dude, you're building it yourself. Only people who'd build this project can criticize. Right on bro! ✊️
I love your channel and vids!
21:25 - and you oriented the beams in the right direction on the scaffold! Can you imagine the pain if not!?
It is looking good.
As a builder, i can say that we use metal brackets because theyre faster, but dont know if theyre actually more or less strong of a joint
Happy Saturday morning folks!
This was another nice video. What I don't understand is that you make such beautiful and strong connections on the poles, but on the house side you trust a few short steel connection plates. And the 45 degree supports are only attached with four screws. Why not also solid wood-on-wood connections at those places that are important for the construction?
Concrete is cement, sand, water, and aggregate. Cement is like plaster. You wet it and it'll cure into a solid thing.
The more you know. ;)
Also, I feel ya on the not thinking things through part, except I seem to either not think them through or do too much thinking it through and never starting.
Your lap pointing is AT LEAST as strong as (and probably stronger than) the Ugly metal brackets. Nice build 👍
Simpson CBH2.37X7.63B-KT Concealed Glulam Beam Hanger , CPTZ concealed post base , CBTZ™ Concealed Beam Tie
That will be a great looking patio.
Looks so good man!!!
Need flashing where it meets the house.
You may want to put some flashing against the house under the siding so rain won't get inside that wall.
24:10 Just FYI Jason, that's NOT a sledgehammer! Sledgehammers are the huge two-handed ones that you raise above your head and swing vertically. What you have in your hand there is a lump hammer. Even hardware stores get this wrong, so I don't blame you. But a lot of people are shouting at their screens right now! :o)
Ooh the tension at the beginning haha
bro is the epitome of patience.
I might be wrong, but I'd be concerned about what you're asking those joist-hangers to support. I'd put another diagonal brace from your existing house-posts to the glue-lam. A little insurance.
Yes! That is the weekest paprt of the structure. The oversized glued beam is useless if it is not properly fixed, but I suspect he'll add something to it in the next episode
Right, I noticed that as well. I think Simpson makes glulam beam hangers with beefier flanges for that specific purpose.
The joinery in beautiful, but Simpson makes some architectural grade brackets that I've used, they look pretty good and save time
What do yall do for air and water penetration sealing when you puncture your building envelope?
I’ve seen a couple times where it appears the answer is “nothing”…
Wow! You have some really good friends to help you hang those beams. Hmmm, I will assume that you talked to a friend or a person with experience in building houses, to consider wind loads and weight of the beams attachment to the house. In some states you will have building permits and inspections of the build done. That is a beautiful house and you spent a lot of money to buy those beams. The porch structure, you would want to build the porch "to meet or exceed! local building code specifications". Carry On Sir and friends.
I love how he likes to make us engineers nervous when he really knows what he is doing?
I dont know but i would have sunk a big ass lag bolt instead of that screw straight down to tie in the post to the beam coming off the house. Even the support between the 2 beams should have lag bolts. But i agreenwhat everyone else said about the decorative simpson ties. Not sure im with you on this one Jay!!!
I took construction classes in high school and my instructor’s name was Bob. Anytime I was building a wall I’d ask Bob if it looked plumb. Easiest way to get a wall plumb and level.
I'd be somewhat concerned that the patio will get a bit dark with a full roof above. Then again, I live in the north where sunshine and warmth is almost always welcome.
I noticed you have Adidas shoes on. For a woodworker Adidas stand for All Day I Dream About Sanding😊
@@ajuk6391 I was told only a few months ago by a kid that Adidas stands for 'after dinner I did a s##t haha!
Dead nuts is a universal assessment!
Nice start but shouldn’t those beams be sloped away from the house a bit? I assume it rains there on occasion.
From the sounds of it he’s going to add a trussed roof. We’ll have to find out though!
@@m_cabral
Agree
Is that 2 Towns Cosmic Crisp? They do collabs sometimes and age in whiskey or bourbon barrels. Those are fantastic.
Your joist hangers or beam hangers. You could have sprayed them black. The contrast between the 2 materials look nice
Think about how much you would have saved if you just kept the old pergola! Now i am mad jealous of that new pergola. Good work!
I like how you hide those two holes on that vertical beam from an oops , didn't edit well enough lol , love your work btw
The Cement is the kind of Concrete. There's also Asphalt Concrete and Lime Concrete.
I just learned that an hour from now. There might even be Cow Poo Concrete.
6:01 pro-tip put your hardware, washer and nut prior to hammering in your bolt else you run the risk of mushrooming the bolt and won't be able to get the nut on without 10 minutes with a grinder.
Glad to see lil man taking out his aggressions on Demo.. cuz welll demmo :)
needed some old Dusty Lumber half lapped joints with dowels brother
Don't worry about the table just go do the dishes _laundry _cook dinner also don't forget to put your dress on !
Cement is what's in the bag; concrete is what comes in the truck
inspirational!
Redoing a patio yourself can be a fulfilling and cost-effective project, potentially saving you thousands of dollars in labor costs while giving you the freedom to customize every detail.