If you’re pushing your mag into the dirt and the BCG drags, then you have something out of spec (likely the lower receiver but possibly the upper receiver as well). If everything is in spec, you should be able to press firmly on the mag and not have the BCG drags the feed lips on the mag at all.
I love the design of this block EXCEPT the old clamping design so I got the newer WC bulletproof adjustable block at the time and am very happy as it has not froze and has nice clicks. I just noticed now they have a non clamping design with the set screws and maybe have to try this on one of my "other rifles that I shoot less. Just got a new riflespeed toolless gas block for my 300 blk shorty I'm building right now for easy super to sub adjustment on the fly as I have a couple suppressors now.
I'm just wondering why you prefer the set screw design over the clamp? Genuinely just curious because I want to get one of these gas blocks and kindof prefer the clamp seems like it would be more secure on the barrel if you're not going to pin the gas block.
I ordered a BCG from aimsurplus for my new rifle build. When I took it to the range to test, it was short stroking, and not loading the next round. I went home, looked at the gas block and it look good. I then looked at the BCG. I saw that the gas key wasn’t staked and was loose. I called aimsurplus and sent pics. They sent me a another BCG. I put their BCGs in all my rifles. I know they take care of their customers.
Yeah every once in a while a bad one will slip through. It it were a consistent problem I'd say move on. However, I've bought stack of BCG's from them and have only had like two units that were out of specs. Our industry is rushing through things nowadays and it gotten really bad. A few months ago I had to send back 10 out of 12 upper receivers to Aero Precision for cracked Picatinny slots. They took their sweet time to replace the uppers. I mean weeks and weeks to get it done.
I'm certain that it affects velocity at some level, however, not to any degree I've ever been able to tell. I can smack steel at 300 yards with a tuned down 10.3" SBR, as if it were standing at 25 yards. It's almost indiscernible.
It’s definitely enough to change the zero. I have experimented with it before when zeroing. Probably still minute of bad guy though, but it was noticeable.
He doesn’t correctly go over the SA AGB settings here. There are 3 different modes (*NOTE*: starting from fully closed to the right and then turning counter clockwise to the left): 1) Restricted (works like a typical AGB); this is for the number of clicks 1-17 2) Standard/“fully open” (works like a regular gas block). It’s at 18 clicks. 3) “Bleed-off” mode; clicks 19-48. This works by venting some of the excess gas out of a port at the front of the gas block instead of having it come back into the action. The answers to your question about velocities: - In RESTRICTED mode, there is a slight INCREASE in velocity vs a standard gas block. - In STANDARD mode, this is the base line velocity (ie if you had just any GB) - In BLEED OFF mode, there is a slight decrease in speed, although for reasons I can’t explain, the decrease is even less when shooting suppressed.
Abner is it possible for you to do a video on ammo? Or if you can steer us (me) in the right direction of where to get info on the subject. Appreciate you.
@@Tier1Citizen What to look for, how to choose. A Tier system of Low to High quality ammo (pun intended). Range vs home defense ammo. Hope this makes sense.
No on a 7.5" you'll be alright using a heavy buffer like this one and it will seriously slow your gun down for you. I use these, they work. aimsurplus.com/griffin-armament-ar-sob-suppressor-optimized-buffer/
Good stuff, important information to know when trying to fine tune your rifle. Your guns always seem to run smoothly. Couple questions, do you feel the need to run pinned gas blocks? And if not do you simple the barrel for the set screw type? And what optic is on that rifle? Thanks for the info Abner!!
I never run pinned blocks. That's overkill of the highest order. Nor do I dimple the barrel, also overkill. That crap is pushed by the gunsmiths who want to make you think that you NEED it. This of course entails going to see them to get it done. All one needs to do is put two drops of blue Loctite 242 into both gas block holes and tighten down the screws until the wrench flexes just a bit. Doing so causes a blind loading effect that hydraulically presses the Loctite around the entire bottom half of the block. Once you do this you're permanently done. People talk out of their butts when they say that the heat will destroy the Loctite. If it weren't such a nightmare to get one apart I would do it on camera for you guys to see that Loctite is just about permanent on a gas block. It takes a blow torch, a mallet and brass rod to break a gas block loose once you've used Loctite. The optic is an Aimpoint T-2 on a Daniel Defense mount.
@@Tier1Citizen that’s actually all I have always done, loctite and proper torque. I’ve never had one come loose. And the fact that you don’t do anything different and use your gear a lot more than I have and yours don’t fail then I feel good to go. I watched James Yeager talk about how you need to file a groove into the barrel for both set screws to bite into then you need to take a chisel and smack it over the gas block set screw holes to basically stake each set screw. He said the loctite method doesn’t work as heat kills the loctite. It made me feel like I half assed my setup by loctite and torquing it down haha. But I felt that was overkill. P.S. excited to see that 13.7 gun 😎 thanks Abner!
@@Tier1Citizen yeah he has done that kind of stuff more than once. And if you disagree with him in his comments he says “get some training” or “we put our stuff through real world hard use”. And to me anyone who isn’t willing to give answers to legit questions, makes me wary.. thanks for the good info and proper responses.
hello, i have a 10in arp and looking to suppress it. would this come in handy to tune gas? i already have a super 42 h3 so wasnt sure if i needed to go another step further
All barrels from every manufacturer are now over gassed. Manufacturers just got to the point where they got over constantly dealing with people wanting to shoot cheap ammunition.
@@tajituck888 Invest in a milspec buffer spring and one of these heavy buffers. It'll make a difference. aimsurplus.com/griffin-armament-ar-sob-suppressor-optimized-buffer/
Does the military go through ALL this with the M4 or the standard M16 (BCT)? I don't think so. When the Army handed me my first M16A1 if it shoots that is all they want, bang hit your target. Putting too much!
Rudolph, your comment shows a lack of understanding about how well the AR-15 can work if it is properly gas balanced. The military has always been and will always be the blunt end of performance. The private sector is where the top performing shooters and weapons are and will always be.
This is basically doing your own r&d and customizing the system. It wouldn't make sense for the entire army to issue rifles like this, but for me I like my Sup Arms agb, enhanced bcg and jp h2 silent capture spring with my gassy ocl polo can. Soft and quiet, cycles great, to each their own (AR😅).
If you’re pushing your mag into the dirt and the BCG drags, then you have something out of spec (likely the lower receiver but possibly the upper receiver as well). If everything is in spec, you should be able to press firmly on the mag and not have the BCG drags the feed lips on the mag at all.
That's not entirely true. Ammo plays a big part in this issues as well.
I love the design of this block EXCEPT the old clamping design so I got the newer WC bulletproof adjustable block at the time and am very happy as it has not froze and has nice clicks. I just noticed now they have a non clamping design with the set screws and maybe have to try this on one of my "other rifles that I shoot less. Just got a new riflespeed toolless gas block for my 300 blk shorty I'm building right now for easy super to sub adjustment on the fly as I have a couple suppressors now.
I'm just wondering why you prefer the set screw design over the clamp? Genuinely just curious because I want to get one of these gas blocks and kindof prefer the clamp seems like it would be more secure on the barrel if you're not going to pin the gas block.
You incorrectly said “turn it clock wise”. You meant counter clockwise.
Thank you for the correction.
I ordered a BCG from aimsurplus for my new rifle build. When I took it to the range to test, it was short stroking, and not loading the next round. I went home, looked at the gas block and it look good. I then looked at the BCG. I saw that the gas key wasn’t staked and was loose. I called aimsurplus and sent pics. They sent me a another BCG. I put their BCGs in all my rifles. I know they take care of their customers.
Yeah every once in a while a bad one will slip through. It it were a consistent problem I'd say move on. However, I've bought stack of BCG's from them and have only had like two units that were out of specs. Our industry is rushing through things nowadays and it gotten really bad. A few months ago I had to send back 10 out of 12 upper receivers to Aero Precision for cracked Picatinny slots. They took their sweet time to replace the uppers. I mean weeks and weeks to get it done.
How do these changes in gas setting impact velocities if at all. Does more gas down the tube take velocity away and vice versa? Have a good one.
I'm certain that it affects velocity at some level, however, not to any degree I've ever been able to tell. I can smack steel at 300 yards with a tuned down 10.3" SBR, as if it were standing at 25 yards. It's almost indiscernible.
It’s definitely enough to change the zero. I have experimented with it before when zeroing. Probably still minute of bad guy though, but it was noticeable.
@@rosswitte that's a good question 🤔
He doesn’t correctly go over the SA AGB settings here. There are 3 different modes (*NOTE*: starting from fully closed to the right and then turning counter clockwise to the left):
1) Restricted (works like a typical AGB); this is for the number of clicks 1-17
2) Standard/“fully open” (works like a regular gas block). It’s at 18 clicks.
3) “Bleed-off” mode; clicks 19-48. This works by venting some of the excess gas out of a port at the front of the gas block instead of having it come back into the action.
The answers to your question about velocities:
- In RESTRICTED mode, there is a slight INCREASE in velocity vs a standard gas block.
- In STANDARD mode, this is the base line velocity (ie if you had just any GB)
- In BLEED OFF mode, there is a slight decrease in speed, although for reasons I can’t explain, the decrease is even less when shooting suppressed.
Abner is it possible for you to do a video on ammo? Or if you can steer us (me) in the right direction of where to get info on the subject. Appreciate you.
What kind of ammo video?
@@Tier1Citizen What to look for, how to choose. A Tier system of Low to High quality ammo (pun intended). Range vs home defense ammo. Hope this makes sense.
Quick question. Does this have significant usefulness in a 7.5 inch pistol build?
Im debating whether to spring for the adjustable gas block or not.
No on a 7.5" you'll be alright using a heavy buffer like this one and it will seriously slow your gun down for you. I use these, they work.
aimsurplus.com/griffin-armament-ar-sob-suppressor-optimized-buffer/
Good stuff, important information to know when trying to fine tune your rifle. Your guns always seem to run smoothly. Couple questions, do you feel the need to run pinned gas blocks? And if not do you simple the barrel for the set screw type? And what optic is on that rifle?
Thanks for the info Abner!!
I never run pinned blocks. That's overkill of the highest order. Nor do I dimple the barrel, also overkill. That crap is pushed by the gunsmiths who want to make you think that you NEED it. This of course entails going to see them to get it done. All one needs to do is put two drops of blue Loctite 242 into both gas block holes and tighten down the screws until the wrench flexes just a bit. Doing so causes a blind loading effect that hydraulically presses the Loctite around the entire bottom half of the block. Once you do this you're permanently done. People talk out of their butts when they say that the heat will destroy the Loctite. If it weren't such a nightmare to get one apart I would do it on camera for you guys to see that Loctite is just about permanent on a gas block. It takes a blow torch, a mallet and brass rod to break a gas block loose once you've used Loctite. The optic is an Aimpoint T-2 on a Daniel Defense mount.
@@Tier1Citizen that’s actually all I have always done, loctite and proper torque. I’ve never had one come loose. And the fact that you don’t do anything different and use your gear a lot more than I have and yours don’t fail then I feel good to go. I watched James Yeager talk about how you need to file a groove into the barrel for both set screws to bite into then you need to take a chisel and smack it over the gas block set screw holes to basically stake each set screw. He said the loctite method doesn’t work as heat kills the loctite. It made me feel like I half assed my setup by loctite and torquing it down haha. But I felt that was overkill. P.S. excited to see that 13.7 gun 😎 thanks Abner!
@@maxhayward2127 Yeah I saw that one too and thought "I wonder if he knows that he's giving erroneous information."
@@Tier1Citizen yeah he has done that kind of stuff more than once. And if you disagree with him in his comments he says “get some training” or “we put our stuff through real world hard use”. And to me anyone who isn’t willing to give answers to legit questions, makes me wary.. thanks for the good info and proper responses.
@@Tier1Citizen Good info. Thanks.
hello, i have a 10in arp and looking to suppress it. would this come in handy to tune gas? i already have a super 42 h3 so wasnt sure if i needed to go another step further
Yes, these are great.
Is there a reason for not running the bypass mode
I presume you mean with the gas return pinched all the way off?
In bypass the block is fully opened and still fine tune adjustable just the excess gas goes out the block kind of like a piston system.
Awesome information!!
Glad it was helpful!
Do you know if this GB will work on a LR308 setup?
Don't know, but the folks at Superlative Arms can answer that one for you.
Thank you.
im surprised to see that BA barrel to be overgassed. why havent you sent it back to get them to correct it?
All barrels from every manufacturer are now over gassed. Manufacturers just got to the point where they got over constantly dealing with people wanting to shoot cheap ammunition.
@@Tier1Citizen yeah unfortunately. i hate an overgassed gun. i just ordered a 16in BA gov profile barrel. i pray its not overgassed.
@@tajituck888 Invest in a milspec buffer spring and one of these heavy buffers. It'll make a difference. aimsurplus.com/griffin-armament-ar-sob-suppressor-optimized-buffer/
@@Tier1Citizen appreciate it. I hope I don’t need it.
@@Tier1Citizen hey got my BA barrel in a couple weeks ago and its good to go. im getting consistent 3 o clock ejection.
Does the military go through ALL this with the M4 or the standard M16 (BCT)? I don't think so. When the Army handed me my first M16A1 if it shoots that is all they want, bang hit your target. Putting too much!
Rudolph, your comment shows a lack of understanding about how well the AR-15 can work if it is properly gas balanced. The military has always been and will always be the blunt end of performance. The private sector is where the top performing shooters and weapons are and will always be.
Absolutely the gas makes all the difference!
This is basically doing your own r&d and customizing the system. It wouldn't make sense for the entire army to issue rifles like this, but for me I like my Sup Arms agb, enhanced bcg and jp h2 silent capture spring with my gassy ocl polo can. Soft and quiet, cycles great, to each their own (AR😅).