I needed to replace the rubber seal on my Miele. I watched several videos by other people on how to get the front of the machine off, and all involved removal of the kick strip which my model doesn't have. Only yours explained about loosening and then pushing in the two screws on the side at the top to remove the top to then remove the front panel. For that little nugget it was immensely helpful thank you. I now have a new seal on my washer. I am a female who is handy and will tackle minor DIY projects, but I have no plumbing experience! The hardest part for me was having enough strength to a) pull the heavy washing machine out of the slot in the utility room and b) having enough strength to pull the rubber seal onto the mounting point. But I will not be beaten!
I had a different fault on my w5741 miele, blowing the FET on the elp165 module inside. But your video helped me correctly disassembling, since a lot is the same on these miele machines. Thanks for sharing this! Grts An Electronics engineer from Belgium😊
We've had this Miele for years, definately must disagree regarding their longevity. However I had a leak. Last time about 10 years ago I paid an engineer over £100 to replace a hose that got cut by a sharp object. Your information on how to get the top front off was invaluable. I found out that it can be run with the side panel off and top off so you can see where leaks are coming from. Obviously keeping hands away from Belts and electric cables, but I guess that's common sense! Thanks anyway.
My work colleage and I own a number of Miele products and although they are designed better than cheaper makes they don't last the claimed 20 years and when they do go wrong they can be expensive to repair. I know of 2 washing machines and a fridge/freezer that didn't go the distance :-(
Adding here the settings for a W1713 washing machine: Water intake: Cold Max water level: No Flow meter: Yes Low water pressure: Yes Sensor rinse: Yes Allergy: No Country version: EU Auto load control: Yes Heater rating: 2100W Suds container: 6kg Imbalance charts: 6kg Max spin speed: 1300 Imbalance sensor: Tacho Time left disp: Yes Motor type: MRT 37-16 Hygiene: Off
@Kevin Stewart, @Sebouh, thank you very much for information provided. I'm currently checking controller on my machine. TEA1522 is dead as expected, but I'm getting 310V on the main supply cap. What should be checked next?
Hi Uroš, take a look at my full description above. My summary is: the SMPS transformer has probably failed and there is a possibility that your micro controller is also faulty and that is just too difficult to repair. On my board many other components were faulty and it was just easier to replace the entire board with one from eBay. I would strongly suggest adding some transient suppressors to the 15V and 8V rails to protect the components downstream from any future failures. Let me know how you get on.
Hi @@bvqbvq , at the end I took the board to the electronics repair shop (kindly recommended by local Miele service). They replaced TEA1522 and found a number of cold joints, most of them on PCB connectors. It seems that nothing else was broken as washing machine now works with no issues. So far it has had around 10 working hours. Anyways, I plan to add the transient suppressors as you recommended.
@@urosmaksimovic7969 , it sounds like you were lucky that the processor wasn't damaged on your board. I'm glad that you managed to get it repaired. Mine is still running with the board that I bought off eBay although I did add the transient suppressors to protect it.
Kevin, Great article thanks a lot. It was very helpful. Do you know the voltages on the secondary windings?. My SMPS transformer is short so I am planning to remove the transformer and apply external power on the secondary terminals but I don't know the voltages. Thanks again
Putting 50V DC across the main supply cap before the SMPS results in 15V and 8.4V across the 2 down stream electrolytics. The lower voltage is on the one nearer the edge of the board. I think that the 15V is a little high as it is used as the relay coil drive voltage. The 8.4V is regulated down to 5V for the processor and other digital circuitry. Before you waste too much time you need to determine whether your processor is damaged. This is not so easy to do. You may be able to make some resistive measurements of the I/O pins that drive the ULN2003 inputs. If your ULN2003 ICs have short circuits then you may be out of luck. If you want to run up the whole board you will need to apply mains to the input connector as it powers up some other circuitry that the processor needs to see running before it will show the normal program menu. Additionally I think that it needs to see some of the connected peripherals, perhaps the temperature sensor before you can activate the wash cycle and see which relays are being driven. On mine there was no drive from the processor to the inlet valve relay at the start of the cycle :-( There is a system schematic tucked into the left-hand side of the chassis under the top cover, that will allow you to identify what is connected where. Let me know how you get on, I am curious to find out more about these boards and whether they can be repaired.
@@bvqbvq Kevin, thanks a lot your info was very helpful. I removed the transformer and supplied voltage 15V and 8V to the 2 electrolytic capacitors as you mentioned from an old satellite receiver power supply which luckily had outputs 15v and 8V. Connected main supply without connecting any peripherals and the display now shows “Waterproof” “Fault” with buzzer sound and LEDs on. I will connect it to the washing machine and let you know. Do you know exactly what is the big red color part? www.tout-lectromenager.fr/images_forum/tout_electromenager_lavage_3664.jpg When I replaced the TEA1522 and connected the power supply noticed smoke coming out from this part and I immediately disconnected the power. While I tested it with a multimeter still shows continuity. Now I am planning to insert the satellite power supply board in a waterproof enclosure and supply 15V and 8V power to the board. Hope this red part will not be a cause for the washing machine not to run properly. Thanks again. Hope one day I will be able to return your help
@@sebouh5369"Waterproof" is correct, you need to short out the outer pins on the 3 pin connector next to the buzzer if the float switch is not connected. The large red component is a common mode choke for noise filtering. You should not have smoke coming out of it! Have you repaired your transformer? My TEA1522 was damaged because there was a short circuit on the transformer primary. I had to unwind it all and wind it with new wire. I would make some resistive measurements of the 3 components clipped to the side of the metal heat sink. There should not be any low resistance.
@@sebouh5369 did you ever fix your board? I tried to read the code out of the processor on mine so that I could replace it but had did not have any success.
@@bvqbvq I just put external power 15V and 8V as you mentioned. The washing machine works well till today. Thanks a lot. I added your provided info on Instructables www.instructables.com/id/Repair-Power-Supply-Miele-W1514-W1714-W1614-W1730-/ I assume you couldn't read the processor code because you must have the correct ID value. Unfortunately I do not have much experience in order to help you
Hi. It is helpfull what you said. I am having almost the same issue with a w1622 novotronik. No power and the pcb looks dead. I don’t find the 15 v, 8v and 50 v. The fuse is ok. It looks that the transformer is dead. How can I identify it in order to buy it,? Thanks a lot.
Hi, in the end I was unable to repair the board because one of the I/O pins on the processor was damaged. It may be easier and cheaper to buy a second hand controller board on eBay. If you want to repair the power supply on the board then you will need to repair the transformer. It is a custom part and I have listed the specification in the video description. The quickest way to get it going is to carefully unwind the transformer and wind some fresh wire with the correct number of turns wound in the correct direction because it is a flyback design. Good luck!
As well as buying one from new, I bought a cheap one from ebay a few years ago but it had had a hard life and the drum suspension was completely worn out. It nearly shook itself apart on spin. If you go into the service menu, you can see the cycle count. I think that there's a video on YT that shows you how to do it.
Kevin wrapped i found your instructable/youtube video, my W1913 washing machine has died. My transformer is dead and i have read your above description and word document on google drive but feel i dont have the skillset to rewind a transformer, is there any transformer i can purchase online that would suit as a replacement? ( the lengths of the primary and secondary wires in the transformers match what you have listed above).
Unfortunately as far as I am aware the transformer is specific to this application. I would strongly advise that you buy a second-hand control panel from ebay because even if you repair the power supply, you are likely to find a lot of other components that have been damaged. On mine, one of the I/O pins on the microcontroller was damaged rendering the board useless. I think I have seen control boards for about £40 ($50, €45) on ebay. If you haven't damaged the transformer core then you could just acquire some enamelled winding wire and rewind it manually. You will need to change the SMPS IC and any other components that have been damaged. I would strongly advise fitting some transient supressors across the output DC supplies to protect them in future.
Hi Kevin, to get your machine working you had to rewind the transformer, splice together the wires, replace the chip (tea1522) and replace the green resistor. Were there any other components that you had to replace? Did you get the problem where the drum spins like crazy and the F53?
![เปิด อาณาจักร หมื่นล้าน "สาระตั้ม" l [Nickynachat]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/3XE0nPF4YkQ/mqdefault.jpg)
I needed to replace the rubber seal on my Miele. I watched several videos by other people on how to get the front of the machine off, and all involved removal of the kick strip which my model doesn't have. Only yours explained about loosening and then pushing in the two screws on the side at the top to remove the top to then remove the front panel. For that little nugget it was immensely helpful thank you. I now have a new seal on my washer. I am a female who is handy and will tackle minor DIY projects, but I have no plumbing experience! The hardest part for me was having enough strength to a) pull the heavy washing machine out of the slot in the utility room and b) having enough strength to pull the rubber seal onto the mounting point. But I will not be beaten!
I had a different fault on my w5741 miele, blowing the FET on the elp165 module inside. But your video helped me correctly disassembling, since a lot is the same on these miele machines.
Thanks for sharing this!
Grts
An Electronics engineer from Belgium😊
I'm glad that it helped you, these machines are too expensive to scrap when you can fix them yourself.
We've had this Miele for years, definately must disagree regarding their longevity. However I had a leak. Last time about 10 years ago I paid an engineer over £100 to replace a hose that got cut by a sharp object. Your information on how to get the top front off was invaluable. I found out that it can be run with the side panel off and top off so you can see where leaks are coming from. Obviously keeping hands away from Belts and electric cables, but I guess that's common sense! Thanks anyway.
My work colleage and I own a number of Miele products and although they are designed better than cheaper makes they don't last the claimed 20 years and when they do go wrong they can be expensive to repair. I know of 2 washing machines and a fridge/freezer that didn't go the distance :-(
Adding here the settings for a W1713 washing machine:
Water intake: Cold
Max water level: No
Flow meter: Yes
Low water pressure: Yes
Sensor rinse: Yes
Allergy: No
Country version: EU
Auto load control: Yes
Heater rating: 2100W
Suds container: 6kg
Imbalance charts: 6kg
Max spin speed: 1300
Imbalance sensor: Tacho
Time left disp: Yes
Motor type: MRT 37-16
Hygiene: Off
I have had a similar prob with my 1714 model. No power struggling find the fault
@Kevin Stewart, @Sebouh, thank you very much for information provided. I'm currently checking controller on my machine. TEA1522 is dead as expected, but I'm getting 310V on the main supply cap. What should be checked next?
Hi
Uroš, take a look at my full description above. My summary is: the SMPS transformer has probably failed and there is a possibility that your micro controller is also faulty and that is just too difficult to repair. On my board many other components were faulty and it was just easier to replace the entire board with one from eBay. I would strongly suggest adding some transient suppressors to the 15V and 8V rails to protect the components downstream from any future failures. Let me know how you get on.
Hi @@bvqbvq , at the end I took the board to the electronics repair shop (kindly recommended by local Miele service). They replaced TEA1522 and found a number of cold joints, most of them on PCB connectors. It seems that nothing else was broken as washing machine now works with no issues. So far it has had around 10 working hours. Anyways, I plan to add the transient suppressors as you recommended.
@@urosmaksimovic7969 , it sounds like you were lucky that the processor wasn't damaged on your board. I'm glad that you managed to get it repaired. Mine is still running with the board that I bought off eBay although I did add the transient suppressors to protect it.
Kevin, Great article thanks a lot. It was very helpful. Do you know the voltages on the secondary windings?.
My SMPS transformer is short so I am planning to remove the transformer and apply external power on the secondary terminals but I don't know the voltages. Thanks again
Putting 50V DC across the main supply cap before the SMPS results in 15V and 8.4V across the 2 down stream electrolytics. The lower voltage is on the one nearer the edge of the board. I think that the 15V is a little high as it is used as the relay coil drive voltage. The 8.4V is regulated down to 5V for the processor and other digital circuitry. Before you waste too much time you need to determine whether your processor is damaged. This is not so easy to do. You may be able to make some resistive measurements of the I/O pins that drive the ULN2003 inputs. If your ULN2003 ICs have short circuits then you may be out of luck.
If you want to run up the whole board you will need to apply mains to the input connector as it powers up some other circuitry that the processor needs to see running before it will show the normal program menu. Additionally I think that it needs to see some of the connected peripherals, perhaps the temperature sensor before you can activate the wash cycle and see which relays are being driven. On mine there was no drive from the processor to the inlet valve relay at the start of the cycle :-(
There is a system schematic tucked into the left-hand side of the chassis under the top cover, that will allow you to identify what is connected where. Let me know how you get on, I am curious to find out more about these boards and whether they can be repaired.
@@bvqbvq Kevin, thanks a lot your info was very helpful. I removed the transformer and supplied voltage 15V and 8V to the 2 electrolytic capacitors as you mentioned from an old satellite receiver power supply which luckily had outputs 15v and 8V. Connected main supply without connecting any peripherals and the display now shows “Waterproof” “Fault” with buzzer sound and LEDs on. I will connect it to the washing machine and let you know. Do you know exactly what is the big red color part?
www.tout-lectromenager.fr/images_forum/tout_electromenager_lavage_3664.jpg
When I replaced the TEA1522 and connected the power supply noticed smoke coming out from this part and I immediately disconnected the power. While I tested it with a multimeter still shows continuity. Now I am planning to insert the satellite power supply board in a waterproof enclosure and supply 15V and 8V power to the board. Hope this red part will not be a cause for the washing machine not to run properly. Thanks again. Hope one day I will be able to return your help
@@sebouh5369"Waterproof" is correct, you need to short out the outer pins on the 3 pin connector next to the buzzer if the float switch is not connected. The large red component is a common mode choke for noise filtering. You should not have smoke coming out of it! Have you repaired your transformer? My TEA1522 was damaged because there was a short circuit on the transformer primary. I had to unwind it all and wind it with new wire. I would make some resistive measurements of the 3 components clipped to the side of the metal heat sink. There should not be any low resistance.
@@sebouh5369 did you ever fix your board? I tried to read the code out of the processor on mine so that I could replace it but had did not have any success.
@@bvqbvq I just put external power 15V and 8V as you mentioned. The washing machine works well till today. Thanks a lot. I added your provided info on Instructables
www.instructables.com/id/Repair-Power-Supply-Miele-W1514-W1714-W1614-W1730-/
I assume you couldn't read the processor code because you must have the correct ID value. Unfortunately I do not have much experience in order to help you
Hi. It is helpfull what you said. I am having almost the same issue with a w1622 novotronik. No power and the pcb looks dead. I don’t find the 15 v, 8v and 50 v. The fuse is ok. It looks that the transformer is dead. How can I identify it in order to buy it,? Thanks a lot.
Hi, in the end I was unable to repair the board because one of the I/O pins on the processor was damaged. It may be easier and cheaper to buy a second hand controller board on eBay.
If you want to repair the power supply on the board then you will need to repair the transformer. It is a custom part and I have listed the specification in the video description. The quickest way to get it going is to carefully unwind the transformer and wind some fresh wire with the correct number of turns wound in the correct direction because it is a flyback design. Good luck!
I love these old Miele-Machines and am looking for one.
Does it make sense to buy a used one for 200€ on Ebay? Thanks in advance :)
As well as buying one from new, I bought a cheap one from ebay a few years ago but it had had a hard life and the drum suspension was completely worn out. It nearly shook itself apart on spin. If you go into the service menu, you can see the cycle count. I think that there's a video on YT that shows you how to do it.
Kevin wrapped i found your instructable/youtube video, my W1913 washing machine has died. My transformer is dead and i have read your above description and word document on google drive but feel i dont have the skillset to rewind a transformer, is there any transformer i can purchase online that would suit as a replacement? ( the lengths of the primary and secondary wires in the transformers match what you have listed above).
Unfortunately as far as I am aware the transformer is specific to this application. I would strongly advise that you buy a second-hand control panel from ebay because even if you repair the power supply, you are likely to find a lot of other components that have been damaged. On mine, one of the I/O pins on the microcontroller was damaged rendering the board useless. I think I have seen control boards for about £40 ($50, €45) on ebay.
If you haven't damaged the transformer core then you could just acquire some enamelled winding wire and rewind it manually. You will need to change the SMPS IC and any other components that have been damaged. I would strongly advise fitting some transient supressors across the output DC supplies to protect them in future.
Hi Kevin, to get your machine working you had to rewind the transformer, splice together the wires, replace the chip (tea1522) and replace the green resistor. Were there any other components that you had to replace? Did you get the problem where the drum spins like crazy and the F53?
Actually after reading the description all I can say is wow. Great article and wow!