This definitely looks like it was made by Roland Electronics in Japan. I came across a Roland stereo receiver marketed under Roland's Martel / Telmar branding, on Ebay a few years ago and It has the same chassis inside. It was a Model 100T or variation, and from 1968. Those "LiLLy" brand Japanese electrolytics and vintage "Midland logo" give away It's age. A very nice budget receiver for It's time and a great repair. It is most likely better quality than any of the current budget receivers of today. It is definitely worth recapping.
Nice video, Terry! I always liked the styling on that era of Midland gear (and others, too!). A good balance of metal, black, the rocker switches. Plus the bands are labeled in megacycles and kilocycles! You demonstrated one of the nicest things about working on stereo gear. When one channel is working and the other isn't, you have an example allowing you to compare the two and spot the differences.
In my experience of 55+ years of electronics repair, one should not jump a capacitor with the power on. It can "heal" the bad capacitor. I learned that lesson the hard way many decades ago. The best way is to tack another cap in place with solder or jumper clips with the power off, then turn the amp on. Yes, on something that old it is best to recap the entire amp. I suspect the ESR on the caps is through the roof on most of them, and another failure is in the near future from the old caps failing.
Hello Mr D=Lab. Thanks for the interesting video. I have a question for you, if you don't mind. How would you troubleshoot a weak signal in the clean channel of a high gain tube amp? I am working on a Krank Krankenstein amp. It is losing a lot of signal in the tone stack. I understand some loss is expected, but I don't know how much. I can't determine if I have a problem or if it is just normal loss when EQs are turned down. Thanks for any help you can lend.
Hi Terry...I have a 1971Fenfer Pro Reverb that has developed a ticking sound when playing through the Vibrato channel but only when a tube is in position V1.Can you tell me how to repair this annoying sound, not very loud but noticeable. The amp has a brass plate soldered along the knob panel and it has been blackfaced. Where do I start ?
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If only there were great techs like you in every town across America. Love the work you do. Thanks for passing on the knowledge.
This definitely looks like it was made by Roland Electronics in Japan. I came across a Roland stereo receiver marketed under Roland's Martel / Telmar branding, on Ebay a few years ago and It has the same chassis inside. It was a Model 100T or variation, and from 1968. Those "LiLLy" brand Japanese electrolytics and vintage "Midland logo" give away It's age. A very nice budget receiver for It's time and a great repair. It is most likely better quality than any of the current budget receivers of today. It is definitely worth recapping.
I'm going to buy an oscilloscope and your explanation help a lot , thanks for your great tutorial !
Very clear troubleshooting. Thanks for the lesson.
I love it when electronics get repaired.
Always impressed by your troubleshooting Terry. Best I could find is this Midland receiver was made in 1970.
Nice fix, love the info and remedy..More knowledge for my old brain..Ed..UK.😊
Thanks! Terry 🚗 Glad there wasn't a car crash into the amp!
Nice video, Terry!
I always liked the styling on that era of Midland gear (and others, too!). A good balance of metal, black, the rocker switches. Plus the bands are labeled in megacycles and kilocycles!
You demonstrated one of the nicest things about working on stereo gear. When one channel is working and the other isn't, you have an example allowing you to compare the two and spot the differences.
Thanks, Terry, for another great video. Cheers! -Norm
Very good.. !! great to learn how to back trace logically. thank you!
Well done. You make it look so easy!
Nice. Looking forward to an RF signal trace exercise.
Nice video. Thanks OM.
Nice video ❤❤❤
In my experience of 55+ years of electronics repair, one should not jump a capacitor with the power on. It can "heal" the bad capacitor. I learned that lesson the hard way many decades ago. The best way is to tack another cap in place with solder or jumper clips with the power off, then turn the amp on. Yes, on something that old it is best to recap the entire amp. I suspect the ESR on the caps is through the roof on most of them, and another failure is in the near future from the old caps failing.
Could be the customer only wants to replace the parts needed to get it working again.
@@Brian-yt8fu Pay me now or pay me later.
@@russellhltn1396 you're right those caps should all be replaced.
Love your videos. It would be helpful for those of us less experienced if you could refer to a schematic.
I could not locate a schematic on this model Midland
@@d-labelectronics I see, thanks for the reply. I always learn something from your videos.
Nice job!
Hello Mr D=Lab. Thanks for the interesting video. I have a question for you, if you don't mind. How would you troubleshoot a weak signal in the clean channel of a high gain tube amp? I am working on a Krank Krankenstein amp. It is losing a lot of signal in the tone stack. I understand some loss is expected, but I don't know how much. I can't determine if I have a problem or if it is just normal loss when EQs are turned down. Thanks for any help you can lend.
Funny enough... with any older electronics, if you guess capacitors, you're correct more often than not.
Great video.
Question:
Do you have a video showing how to align radio frequency or intermediate frequency stage in a transistor radio receiver ?
Rookie question. It was hard to see but did you have the ground lead on your probe clipped onto chassis ground somewhere? Thanks.
Thanks!
Can you use any audio input instead of the dummy load when probing? i.e. the radio?
Hi Terry...I have a 1971Fenfer Pro Reverb that has developed a ticking sound when playing through the Vibrato channel but only when a tube is in position V1.Can you tell me how to repair this annoying sound, not very loud but noticeable. The amp has a brass plate soldered along the knob panel and it has been blackfaced. Where do I start ?
Send me a direct e-mail & I will send you a diagram to resolve that tick
Leader Lag 25...where can I find one?
Plenty of 125s.... significant difference?
I found this one on ebay. Never had a 125, so do not know how well they perform
@@d-labelectronics thanks for the response I'll keep on looking...
Mikado 2415 is pretty much the same receiver
I sent you an email with lots of links to manuals at my web site 👍
Really interesting,,, D-Lab rules
Well done, good demo. Thanks.
A great tutorial on signal tracing, thanks!