Just seeing this in January 2021! Great video man. It's ironic to me as I was doing this same exact procedure at exactly the same time, December 2016. My car is also a 2004 6S V6, a manual transmission hatchback model I bought new. The V6 model of this car was famously known for leaking oil from the timing chain cover onto the exhaust resonator below, causing oil vapors to enter the cabin of the car at stop signs or lights. A real health hazard and Mazda/my dealer pretended there wasn't a problem every time I took the car in for service and complained about the odor. So I was needing a "new to me" transmission (I was at 165K miles and the throwout bearing was making noise and 3rd gear was feeling like it was tired of it all..), clutch, and many other bits on the car, so I decided to set up a huge front end project to replace all these things and hopefully tackle my oil leak issue. I had it up on blocks and under a tarp shanty in my back yard (we have a small basketball court but no garage!), with power, lights, heat, and a radio to keep me company as I worked on the front end of it for a couple months. Dropping the transmission with only 15" of lifted clearance was a piece of cake compared to the timing chain project. At one point I had the rear bank chain off by one tooth on the cam sprocket... took me a couple revolutions to discover the problem, and I'm lucky it was only one tooth off as who knows if it would have caused interference with the valves. After a couple weeks of picking at this timing chain project, I was finally ready to close it up. I was determined to do every little thing to NOT have another molecule of oil leak from this timing chain cover. I noticed that the mating surfaces you mentioned at the block and valve head were NOT perfectly coplanar, there was a slight overlap of the aluminum castings, and I also knew this was where I was seeing the worst of the oil leaks. So, I used a fine file to take off the overlap, then I used emery cloth to smooth the surface, and I used brake cleaner to clean the hell out of all the surfaces to receive the gasket. I used purple gasket cement for synthetic oil and spent a lot of time preppring all the mating surfaces. So here we are in 2021, and I can happily report that I still have ZERO oil leaks, and I just yesterday had to replace my serpentine belt, tensioner, and pulley (both were squealing) and it brought me back to when I had done all that work. The car now has almost 200K miles, and my son uses it at college. After all these years, and the fact that I used to "drive it like I stole it", it's still strong and fun as hell!
Im almost at 200k. Yup I smell burning oil when I stop and my cabin fan is taking outside air. I just turn off the fan or switch to recirculate before stopping. I lose almost a quart between 5k oil change intervals. I figure most of it leaks out. I'd be a bit intimidated to start a job like this.
Charles, good video...quick question....once the chains are on and all aligned with the painted link on the marks, if you turn the engine through its cycle back to TDC, and the timing marks are at the TDC position, should the painted links be on the marks again?
It's been a while since I did this, but I believe, if I remember correctly, that it takes several revolutions to get the chains back to where you started.
@@CharlesAndCars Thanks for your reply, got it all back together, getting popping in intake....now worried pulse wheel went on wrong...followed your vid, but have now read where the fitting of the pulse wheel changed from 2004(your vid) to 2005(the year of my vehicle)....also the way you did it matched my Haynes manual.... do you by any chance know of this??? It sure sounds like the ignition is off...thanks....
@@francishuxley5928 Possibly you are off by a tooth? Hard to say... If you have a higher end scanner you should be able to see the cam timing for each cam and that'll tell you if one of the cams is off. This engine isn't an easy one to do chains on... don't know why they didn't make it a little easier to do (timing marks, etc.) but it's the way it is.
I have a question. I tore apart my engine thinking it was too damaged to repair but it turns out it just needs rod bearings. anyway I didn't index the cams or crank. do you know what cylinder is at top dead center when in the 3 and 11 o clock keyway position?
does it matter what stroke its on or just as long as the crank key is in the 3 and 11 o clock position. liked and subscribed great information. should've watched it first
This is a pretty involved procedure when replacing cams/heads on this engine... You'll need to find the manual, or mitchell data on it. It's too involved to try to put the instructions in here as a comment. There's a specific sequence that needs to be followed involving the installation of the timing chains and the thrust bearings.... as well as a bunch of other things...
question, where did you source the timing chain kit? i ordered one from amazon and it's was made in china and just don't trust it....i have the engine totally out of car and would love to know if you found an original ford kit
I would follow the sequence just to know that the crankshaft is in the correct orientation... Makes it easier when putting it back together. If I was doing this engine all the time I probably wouldn't, but it's not often that I do chains on this engine so.....
One Question did the Car turned on when you put all this back together cause that Pulse key goes the other waY, THE KEYWAY SUPPOSE TO BE AT 3 o clock and the pulse Keys Gap at 9 o clock dead center 11 o clock
@@CharlesAndCars Help! I have the 3.0 VVT in an 05 Mazda 6. I know when I took off the pulse wheel the gap was opposite the keyway. Now I'm putting it back. Are you 100% sure it should be the other way?
If the 3.0 motor you're working on is not a VVT (Variable Valve timing) motor than the gap in the pulse wheel would be opposite from this video. For the VVT Motor you can see at about 5:40 in the #1 video that the gap in the pulse wheel is on the crankshaft keyway side of the crank... It's opposite for non VVT engines.
Just seeing this in January 2021! Great video man. It's ironic to me as I was doing this same exact procedure at exactly the same time, December 2016. My car is also a 2004 6S V6, a manual transmission hatchback model I bought new. The V6 model of this car was famously known for leaking oil from the timing chain cover onto the exhaust resonator below, causing oil vapors to enter the cabin of the car at stop signs or lights. A real health hazard and Mazda/my dealer pretended there wasn't a problem every time I took the car in for service and complained about the odor. So I was needing a "new to me" transmission (I was at 165K miles and the throwout bearing was making noise and 3rd gear was feeling like it was tired of it all..), clutch, and many other bits on the car, so I decided to set up a huge front end project to replace all these things and hopefully tackle my oil leak issue. I had it up on blocks and under a tarp shanty in my back yard (we have a small basketball court but no garage!), with power, lights, heat, and a radio to keep me company as I worked on the front end of it for a couple months. Dropping the transmission with only 15" of lifted clearance was a piece of cake compared to the timing chain project. At one point I had the rear bank chain off by one tooth on the cam sprocket... took me a couple revolutions to discover the problem, and I'm lucky it was only one tooth off as who knows if it would have caused interference with the valves. After a couple weeks of picking at this timing chain project, I was finally ready to close it up. I was determined to do every little thing to NOT have another molecule of oil leak from this timing chain cover. I noticed that the mating surfaces you mentioned at the block and valve head were NOT perfectly coplanar, there was a slight overlap of the aluminum castings, and I also knew this was where I was seeing the worst of the oil leaks. So, I used a fine file to take off the overlap, then I used emery cloth to smooth the surface, and I used brake cleaner to clean the hell out of all the surfaces to receive the gasket. I used purple gasket cement for synthetic oil and spent a lot of time preppring all the mating surfaces. So here we are in 2021, and I can happily report that I still have ZERO oil leaks, and I just yesterday had to replace my serpentine belt, tensioner, and pulley (both were squealing) and it brought me back to when I had done all that work. The car now has almost 200K miles, and my son uses it at college. After all these years, and the fact that I used to "drive it like I stole it", it's still strong and fun as hell!
Im almost at 200k. Yup I smell burning oil when I stop and my cabin fan is taking outside air. I just turn off the fan or switch to recirculate before stopping. I lose almost a quart between 5k oil change intervals. I figure most of it leaks out. I'd be a bit intimidated to start a job like this.
thanks man treat helped me doing the job
sounds very confusing but at the end everything makes sense
Best video O have seen so far. I’m actually doing this job right now.
glad it helped... This is not a particurly easy job.
Tour Spec for the tensioners and arms (if you remove them) is 18ft-lbs
when turning the engine, I normally just slip on the harmonic balancer and turn it by hand without the bolt. not everyone has an impact gun
this is a good video I would to know what needs to all be removed to remove the timing cover
NIce job, lot's of good detail and helpful advice!
0 up
exposed on the marks, there is a spark, the candles are wet. It is trying to start, but it is not bleak
where you get a guide for the v6 mazda 2.5 2000 mazda mpv?
Great job by the way
mantab om
Very awesome job man ! Thank you so very much ! Sincerely , Tommy .
Glad it helped
Is the crank shaft on 3or11
Is the crank shaft on 3 or 11
Charles, good video...quick question....once the chains are on and all aligned with the painted link on the marks, if you turn the engine through its cycle back to TDC, and the timing marks are at the TDC position, should the painted links be on the marks again?
It's been a while since I did this, but I believe, if I remember correctly, that it takes several revolutions to get the chains back to where you started.
@@CharlesAndCars Thanks for your reply, got it all back together, getting popping in intake....now worried pulse wheel went on wrong...followed your vid, but have now read where the fitting of the pulse wheel changed from 2004(your vid) to 2005(the year of my vehicle)....also the way you did it matched my Haynes manual....
do you by any chance know of this??? It sure sounds like the ignition is off...thanks....
@@francishuxley5928 Possibly you are off by a tooth? Hard to say... If you have a higher end scanner you should be able to see the cam timing for each cam and that'll tell you if one of the cams is off. This engine isn't an easy one to do chains on... don't know why they didn't make it a little easier to do (timing marks, etc.) but it's the way it is.
very helpful thank you.
Glad it was helpful!
I have a question. I tore apart my engine thinking it was too damaged to repair but it turns out it just needs rod bearings. anyway I didn't index the cams or crank. do you know what cylinder is at top dead center when in the 3 and 11 o clock keyway position?
Y cuales son los pistones k seponen en punto murto superior es cualkiera
Because I didn't not timing my Mazda 6 chain before I pull out the chain,so I timing it it does not start
why does my mark on far right camshaft seem to be between links?
does it matter what stroke its on or just as long as the crank key is in the 3 and 11 o clock position. liked and subscribed great information. should've watched it first
This is a pretty involved procedure when replacing cams/heads on this engine... You'll need to find the manual, or mitchell data on it. It's too involved to try to put the instructions in here as a comment. There's a specific sequence that needs to be followed involving the installation of the timing chains and the thrust bearings.... as well as a bunch of other things...
+Charles And Cars I figured it out. thank you.
jerytherew1 mine ended up at 3 o clock position to
jerytherew1 was it ok on yours?
question, where did you source the timing chain kit? i ordered one from amazon and it's was made in china and just don't trust it....i have the engine totally out of car and would love to know if you found an original ford kit
rockauto.com. If you wan't oem you'll either have to find a dealer online or go to the dealer to get it.
@@CharlesAndCars thanks man. appreciate. found a better one in think.
Как ставить метки левый и правый распредвала икаленвал метки по отдельно мозно показать или схему
Please I need your help
Do I need follow removal sequence if I'm pulling the heads?
I would follow the sequence just to know that the crankshaft is in the correct orientation... Makes it easier when putting it back together. If I was doing this engine all the time I probably wouldn't, but it's not often that I do chains on this engine so.....
@@CharlesAndCars good idea. Thanks. And thank you for you quality video buddy. Keep that good stuff up.
@@xjbeater8638 Glad it helped you out
@@CharlesAndCars yes sir more than you know. My first dohc. I've done a few gm v6 and and jeep straight 6. Thanks!
Got er done. Runs a little rough on idle and a little hard to start. Replaced head gaskets. Any ideas? And thanks for help!
I ride motorcycles so I use blue loctite and a torque wrench on everything
One Question did the Car turned on when you put all this back together cause that Pulse key goes the other waY, THE KEYWAY SUPPOSE TO BE AT 3 o clock and the pulse Keys Gap at 9 o clock dead center 11 o clock
Car started right up. I believe, if I remember correctly, that the gap in the pulse wheel goes the other way for a non-VVT engine.
@@CharlesAndCars Help! I have the 3.0 VVT in an 05 Mazda 6. I know when I took off the pulse wheel the gap was opposite the keyway. Now I'm putting it back. Are you 100% sure it should be the other way?
Pulse wheel is wrong because I just had to do it again...
If the 3.0 motor you're working on is not a VVT (Variable Valve timing) motor than the gap in the pulse wheel would be opposite from this video. For the VVT Motor you can see at about 5:40 in the #1 video that the gap in the pulse wheel is on the crankshaft keyway side of the crank... It's opposite for non VVT engines.
Reluctor Ford escape v6 3.0
С русским субтитром есть это видео???
Niet
very good but in spanish please
yep. this job definitely not for me...
Best to know that in the beginning rather than getting into it and finding out.
take the other guide off next time. way easier
The most critical part of a job and you skim thru it not even showing it.
Not sure why people like you complain, go do it yourself. He just gave you a bunch of free information and your whining about it
next time show the marks so we can see,just do not point at it then say sorry something is in the way.