Its aluminum. Aluminum removes heat faster then almost any other material Becuse the heater is being asked to heat up on a cold surface it cant overcome the cold fast enough to heat up to usable temptures so its in thermol shock. Its probably a protection circuit doing this. You might try not putting it into the base and let it warm up in the air. Just my 2 cents.
'Canadian'?!?!? You can't be serious maan!?!?! I think you mean Centigrade, or Celsius doncha!?!?! You ARE aware other countries exist outside of North America? I know it's a common belief outside of the US that you don't! It's 750f, obviously = >
Mine seems to react to warm weather. When its cool, it works fine. It has been warm here for quite a period. Now it goes up to its standard 350 C. And after a while the temperature starts dropping and I get a H-E aswell. Tried an other iron... same problem.
As I wrote before... mine had the same problem when the workshop temp was high (over 20 c). I wrote to Hakko Japan and sent them a video and a link to this YT video. They provided me with a new PCB which solved the problem.
This is so strange, and no you can use these in cold environments. I have two 888 units and I use one in Alaska out in the shop newed I say more, not a single problem with either unit in the last 8 years since I purchased them. and I use them a lot. I have replaced the pencil iron on one unit. You are not by chance running AC in your shop that is 60AC volts x 2 one side out of phase? In other words, 60 volts on one side of the plug and 60 volts on the other side and your ground is your neutral? I'm assuming not as if you were you would have thought of this as a potential. problem. Those of us that run 60 x 60 AC volts phase reversed on one side are rare and only do so for specific needs, However, I guess one could forget or purchased a place whit this implemented and forgot. I wonder if they sent you the same unit back. as fare as the base or pencil? And for the future you may want to avoid such rough handling of the pencil as far as slamming it into the holder, I'm not saying it's going to be a killer every time but the element in these are 70volt aliments and are rather brittle so if you do that just in the right way hitting the tip just on the correct spot you will crack or shatter the elements. so maybe a bit more care taken when handling it may well keep it in service much longer in the future. Don't let this be a discouraging experience, I now have a 951 and a full Hakko desolder station as well an SMD station and they are all in Alaska in the cold cold shop well below 15degrees when I walk in and they all work just fine.
OK this is almost 5 years ago now and its still chugging along fine as long as its above seeing your breath temp in the shop. If its a little cold I just put the unit inside my jacket for a couple minutes and its fine. As far as the how I'm placing the iron in the holder... I'm definitely not slamming it in there although the clicking of the metal parts together might sound a little loud to the mic. If it cant take the treatment I give it then I don't want it. I'm not about to play a game of operation (its an old game where you fish plastic body parts out of a hole with tweezers without touching the sides) while I'm trying to get some work done. And I think the fact that its lasted this long supports my case.
Has hakko ever said anything about that? I think I will have to test this myself in my garage and then email hakko themselves about it if I see the same thing. 2 units in a row doing the same thing means it's a real thing. I absolutely work in the cold sometimes. My garage is detached, 2 bay, all cement block, and not sealed up... Real hard to get warm. In the meantime, maybe you can just stick it on one of those low wattage coffee cup warmer plates. hah. :) What a dumb problem to have. How did they never notice this, or notice it and decide it's fine? And I wonder if the fx-888 (no D) does it?
Mines weird. It's set for 750 f. But when I check the tip with a fluke thermometer it reads 680 f. So I just set it 70 f higher. Any one else have this issue ?
you got the fake Hakko. There is the video of someone explaining the differences between the original and fake unit selling around. One of the differences were the fake one has a bit more gap between element and tip which results in having problems like yours. I immediately spotted another sign of fake unit. The flexible ribbed cable protection (for bending) where the cable goes into hand piece in original is made of silica which is way more flexible and fake one is made of some harder rubber or plastic composite which is much more rigid. check this out: th-cam.com/video/VvOJL8aAUO8/w-d-xo.html&ab_channel=LawrenceBillson
I've had the same problem...BUT.. I found when I turned it off, then on....it ramped up to temp BUT... the actual temp was like a million degrees!!! Then I heard there is a 'method' on youtube (not in hakko manual) on how to fix this...thought it was this one but maybe not
Ci sono un sacco di fake di centraline Hackko, e arrivano tutte dalla Cina, io ho cambiato due, 2 Weller prima che una funzionasse! La prima da un sito di elettronica, le seconde dal grande sorriso.
Could be a fake. Watch video how to spot a fake. First this id do it open the case and look for a daughter board over the transformer And the custom ic.
After watching this video and reading all the comments, I bought a trac power TK 955👍🏻🔥😎🔥💪🏻 For the extra couple of bucks, no problems, no returns works perfect with all gauges
Keep smashing it into the holder.. That will help. Hakko's Micro controller is a piece of crap. Very high failure rate. Even the non digital version is the same. The Micro controller is a Hakko propritary chip.
Its aluminum. Aluminum removes heat faster then almost any other material
Becuse the heater is being asked to heat up on a cold surface it cant overcome the cold fast enough to heat up to usable temptures so its in thermol shock.
Its probably a protection circuit doing this. You might try not putting it into the base and let it warm up in the air.
Just my 2 cents.
'Canadian'?!?!? You can't be serious maan!?!?! I think you mean Centigrade, or Celsius doncha!?!?! You ARE aware other countries exist outside of North America? I know it's a common belief outside of the US that you don't! It's 750f, obviously = >
It's a combination of gun smoke and the hormones in the meat. Can't operate a soldering iron but they can have lethal firearms, knuckle draggers.
Mine seems to react to warm weather. When its cool, it works fine. It has been warm here for quite a period. Now it goes up to its standard 350 C. And after a while the temperature starts dropping and I get a H-E aswell. Tried an other iron... same problem.
Just take it inside the warm area at night.
I have the same problem trying to work in the cold. Warm me up I work just fine.
To hot forget it.
My Hakko is brand new only use it twice so far it going great , call hakko and make sure you didn't get a clone or if they can help you.
As I wrote before... mine had the same problem when the workshop temp was high (over 20 c). I wrote to Hakko Japan and sent them a video and a link to this YT video. They provided me with a new PCB which solved the problem.
I had this happen a few times to. I always wondered what was the caused the issue.
Try to heat up the tip a bit (temperature sensor is in the tip, not in the main unit) - by heat gun or hair dryer. Maybe even in hand?
Yep did it. Held it under my arm for 20 minutes...nothing....heat gun....nothing
The base has to be warm or it wont kick off.
That is very strange...
Huh never heard of this happening. Rather strange issue.
Yeah I have never heard or seen anyone else mention it.
Guessing, a cold solder joint somewhere within the unit. Probably not a power connection, sounds like a low power logic issue.
What we have here is operators headspace.
This is so strange, and no you can use these in cold environments. I have two 888 units and I use one in Alaska out in the shop newed I say more, not a single problem with either unit in the last 8 years since I purchased them. and I use them a lot. I have replaced the pencil iron on one unit. You are not by chance running AC in your shop that is 60AC volts x 2 one side out of phase? In other words, 60 volts on one side of the plug and 60 volts on the other side and your ground is your neutral? I'm assuming not as if you were you would have thought of this as a potential. problem. Those of us that run 60 x 60 AC volts phase reversed on one side are rare and only do so for specific needs, However, I guess one could forget or purchased a place whit this implemented and forgot. I wonder if they sent you the same unit back. as fare as the base or pencil? And for the future you may want to avoid such rough handling of the pencil as far as slamming it into the holder, I'm not saying it's going to be a killer every time but the element in these are 70volt aliments and are rather brittle so if you do that just in the right way hitting the tip just on the correct spot you will crack or shatter the elements. so maybe a bit more care taken when handling it may well keep it in service much longer in the future. Don't let this be a discouraging experience, I now have a 951 and a full Hakko desolder station as well an SMD station and they are all in Alaska in the cold cold shop well below 15degrees when I walk in and they all work just fine.
OK this is almost 5 years ago now and its still chugging along fine as long as its above seeing your breath temp in the shop. If its a little cold I just put the unit inside my jacket for a couple minutes and its fine. As far as the how I'm placing the iron in the holder... I'm definitely not slamming it in there although the clicking of the metal parts together might sound a little loud to the mic. If it cant take the treatment I give it then I don't want it. I'm not about to play a game of operation (its an old game where you fish plastic body parts out of a hole with tweezers without touching the sides) while I'm trying to get some work done. And I think the fact that its lasted this long supports my case.
Has hakko ever said anything about that? I think I will have to test this myself in my garage and then email hakko themselves about it if I see the same thing. 2 units in a row doing the same thing means it's a real thing. I absolutely work in the cold sometimes. My garage is detached, 2 bay, all cement block, and not sealed up... Real hard to get warm.
In the meantime, maybe you can just stick it on one of those low wattage coffee cup warmer plates. hah. :)
What a dumb problem to have. How did they never notice this, or notice it and decide it's fine?
And I wonder if the fx-888 (no D) does it?
No I never did. I guess I should. Couldn't hurt to ask I suppose.
So, did you buy it from a reputable dealer, or location? Like, is this eBay, as opposed to Amazon?
From amazon and its a legit unit as far as I can tell.
Mines weird. It's set for 750 f. But when I check the tip with a fluke thermometer it reads 680 f. So I just set it 70 f higher. Any one else have this issue ?
Call Hakko and quote the serial number to confirm it is not a fake. Open it up to confirm.
I opened it up and confirmed all parts are genuine. Its been 4 years now at least and it still works fine.
you got the fake Hakko. There is the video of someone explaining the differences between the original and fake unit selling around. One of the differences were the fake one has a bit more gap between element and tip which results in having problems like yours. I immediately spotted another sign of fake unit. The flexible ribbed cable protection (for bending) where the cable goes into hand piece in original is made of silica which is way more flexible and fake one is made of some harder rubber or plastic composite which is much more rigid. check this out: th-cam.com/video/VvOJL8aAUO8/w-d-xo.html&ab_channel=LawrenceBillson
I've had the same problem...BUT.. I found when I turned it off, then on....it ramped up to temp BUT... the actual temp was like a million degrees!!! Then I heard there is a 'method' on youtube (not in hakko manual) on how to fix this...thought it was this one but maybe not
Does anyone know the country of origin of this fx-888d , I’ve heard there’s a lots of fake ones out there
Cr One they are made in Malaysia
Sorry Sir, it's a fake.
LOL my first thought but it checks out otherwise. Evidence?
@@berniesworkbench7468 look at the base.
its original
Ci sono un sacco di fake di centraline Hackko, e arrivano tutte dalla Cina, io ho cambiato due, 2 Weller prima che una funzionasse! La prima da un sito di elettronica, le seconde dal grande sorriso.
Could be a fake. Watch video how to spot a fake.
First this id do it open the case and look for a daughter board over the transformer
And the custom ic.
Slamming that iron around like it's a bolt under a Chevy or something...lol.
If you open up the unit then we can see if it's fake or not.
Watch this : th-cam.com/video/VvOJL8aAUO8/w-d-xo.html
Roby Dany if I can get a free minute maybe I'll open it up. But it's been the best soldering iron I've ever owned as long as the unit is warmed up.
After watching this video and reading all the comments, I bought a trac power TK 955👍🏻🔥😎🔥💪🏻 For the extra couple of bucks, no problems, no returns works perfect with all gauges
He's using a knock off version that looks very close to the original I think.
Keep smashing it into the holder.. That will help. Hakko's Micro controller is a piece of crap. Very high failure rate. Even the non digital version is the same. The Micro controller is a Hakko propritary chip.