As long as you get bites that are satisfactory, you can use any hook size that active lures accept. When I'm desperate for bite rate, when I imagine the game is hating on me, I go on the smaller end or default ones. When I feel the game isn't trolling me, I go to my favorite hook which is the Zenith U1 Large 4 treble hook. If you read its description it says it's invisible. It's also large enough to scare away the smaller fish, which sometimes work.
TLDR: Sorry, It's still long. Good mono has better shock absorbing properties, especially on the onset of the bite and long fights. If you're not confident about your reel's strength, it might help? They're also less visible than braids,being translucent, which doesn't matter much if you have fluoro leaders. High quality braids can help you cast further, try reading their descriptions to see which one. They're also thinner than monos if you feel like they have some effect in having less visibility, of course you have fluoro leaders which probably negates this as well. In my observation, mono with fluoro leader absorbs the shock more when the fish struggles. You can easily observe this during the first few moments of the bite. If you're using braid, the tension bar goes full almost instantaneously. On the other hand, you can see the tension bar progress slower on a mono line, you can imagine it being more stretchy (both with fluoro leaders). Does this matter when fighting and landing the fish successfully? I don't know. They seem to do the same for me, or at least I don't pay that much attention to it. I'm gonna stick with what I have on most of the time, whatever I was thinking before the sessions starts. I'm also not worrying if my gear snaps, as long as I follow the rod>line>leader weight distribution. You may also think, less shock absorption means your gear wears faster. If you're fishing well (you will as long as the leader is correct) and the spots doesn't troll you much, maintenance costs is negligible. If it's pikes (which super rarely happens, they're not even that big), your main line doesn't matter. The only leader that works for browns and graylings are either fluoros or that invisible expensive mono line (5.5KG). Both can be bitten through by the extremely rare pike that has the ability to chew through them. I'm not sure how big that pike is because it has never happened to me, I'm jinxing myself here. I only get around 2KG, really rarely, and they're fine. The heaviest I caught on a 6.2KG leader, regardless of main line, was a mean 7KG+ Zander (they have sharp teeth as well). Okay maybe, there's an invisible smidge chance, the mono line would work well on that scenario. I'm more afraid of taimen, now that I think about it. But you don't really know what got through your leader, unless you manage to make it surface before all else fails.
and yeah when i started belaya i been biten by the pike , truth i was experimenting with lures didnt know better, once again thank u for your time and effort
@@marko4205 Glad I could help. Regarding pikes, I've noticed that if they're gonna pop out, they're mostly on weedy (I think they're weeds) areas of the river bank. When I'm on such a spot, before I get close to the weeds, I just hold on to shift and forget about that little bit of play area. Though there's a chance you still get a good bite, even a trophy, on that last stretch. You also have to realize, whatever other fish you don't want biting there will bite as well.
Yes you can. Spinning reels tend to be on the slower side. You can set the speed between 40 - 50. It depends on your reel. At 40, you can do continuous reeling. For 50, or generally everything, just make sure it doesn't make ripples above the water unless you're using top water wobblers. Also, take note of your rod's test weight. The lure's weight should be within your rod's test weight so you can cast far. Fish tend to stay in the deeper parts when it's hot.
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i try sometimes with s2 hooks
As long as you get bites that are satisfactory, you can use any hook size that active lures accept. When I'm desperate for bite rate, when I imagine the game is hating on me, I go on the smaller end or default ones. When I feel the game isn't trolling me, I go to my favorite hook which is the Zenith U1 Large 4 treble hook. If you read its description it says it's invisible. It's also large enough to scare away the smaller fish, which sometimes work.
does mono line works mutch better than a braid , ofcourse i use leader 6.2 flouro 60cm
TLDR: Sorry, It's still long. Good mono has better shock absorbing properties, especially on the onset of the bite and long fights. If you're not confident about your reel's strength, it might help? They're also less visible than braids,being translucent, which doesn't matter much if you have fluoro leaders. High quality braids can help you cast further, try reading their descriptions to see which one. They're also thinner than monos if you feel like they have some effect in having less visibility, of course you have fluoro leaders which probably negates this as well.
In my observation, mono with fluoro leader absorbs the shock more when the fish struggles. You can easily observe this during the first few moments of the bite. If you're using braid, the tension bar goes full almost instantaneously. On the other hand, you can see the tension bar progress slower on a mono line, you can imagine it being more stretchy (both with fluoro leaders). Does this matter when fighting and landing the fish successfully? I don't know. They seem to do the same for me, or at least I don't pay that much attention to it. I'm gonna stick with what I have on most of the time, whatever I was thinking before the sessions starts. I'm also not worrying if my gear snaps, as long as I follow the rod>line>leader weight distribution. You may also think, less shock absorption means your gear wears faster. If you're fishing well (you will as long as the leader is correct) and the spots doesn't troll you much, maintenance costs is negligible. If it's pikes (which super rarely happens, they're not even that big), your main line doesn't matter. The only leader that works for browns and graylings are either fluoros or that invisible expensive mono line (5.5KG). Both can be bitten through by the extremely rare pike that has the ability to chew through them. I'm not sure how big that pike is because it has never happened to me, I'm jinxing myself here. I only get around 2KG, really rarely, and they're fine. The heaviest I caught on a 6.2KG leader, regardless of main line, was a mean 7KG+ Zander (they have sharp teeth as well). Okay maybe, there's an invisible smidge chance, the mono line would work well on that scenario. I'm more afraid of taimen, now that I think about it. But you don't really know what got through your leader, unless you manage to make it surface before all else fails.
@@burnoutpace3410 no bro thank u a lot
and yeah when i started belaya i been biten by the pike , truth i was experimenting with lures didnt know better, once again thank u for your time and effort
@@marko4205 Glad I could help. Regarding pikes, I've noticed that if they're gonna pop out, they're mostly on weedy (I think they're weeds) areas of the river bank. When I'm on such a spot, before I get close to the weeds, I just hold on to shift and forget about that little bit of play area. Though there's a chance you still get a good bite, even a trophy, on that last stretch. You also have to realize, whatever other fish you don't want biting there will bite as well.
Can i fish here with Spinning rod and not castig rod?
Yes you can. Spinning reels tend to be on the slower side. You can set the speed between 40 - 50. It depends on your reel. At 40, you can do continuous reeling. For 50, or generally everything, just make sure it doesn't make ripples above the water unless you're using top water wobblers. Also, take note of your rod's test weight. The lure's weight should be within your rod's test weight so you can cast far. Fish tend to stay in the deeper parts when it's hot.