Fantastic job. You're never going to please everyone with this kind of work, but if I had one, I'd want it to work and I'd want to make sure it lasted longer than me, so your work is the perfect solution.
Good job. If you need a knob that is a replacement for the no 1 use one off a no 98 or 99. I have a no 1 and both 98 and 99 and they match perfectly. Thank you have a good weekend.
It's super cute!! And I'm glad to see one in a good working and usable condition, and although they are more valuable in origional untouched state, what's the fun in that!
I got rid of my #2 for some of the same reasons you've mentioned about the #1. Not actually useful. Let the collectors have their fun, I'll stick to my #3 and up users. Thanks for a very informative video.
I thought that there was always the Wright way to do it. This video came out this morning, 12/12/2020, and there are already 200 views. Way to go James! When I got done watching this video, I checked the views, and it is now at 351 views.
Hey! So i just picked up a couple planes in a lot of tools, two of them are stanleys, but the other seems to have no identifier? Also, what's the purpose of grooves in the bottom of one?
Corrugated bottoms were sold with the idea that they are easier to push. In fact, they are no easier to push, but they are now collectible. Feel free to send me some pictures. I'd be glad to give you more information.
Fantastic restoration James, think that despite it's collectability, it needed bringing back to fully functioning and useable, would have to be of some significant historical significance not to do anything with it. As to the piece you added to the tote not matching 100%, I would have probably tried using a black tea stain, think that would have done the trick.
I see where you used multiple layers of paint stripper to cut through the japanning but at 2:42 you said there are better ways to remove the japanning. What are those ways? I have never found a satisfactory method.
Have you tried using an electrolysis tank to remove paint, rust ant japanning? I prefer it because It gets everything out, especially in corners you can’t get a brush.
Yep I've done that for quite a few. But I'm not a huge fan of what that does to the patina. Forgetting down to bare metal it's a great way to do it though. Of course my favorite and fastest method is sandblasting but that's a whole nother bottle of wax. Lol
@@WoodByWrightHowTo I use it specifically because it leaves the patina, especially on old axes. I found vinegar to remove the patina if anything. How long are you leaving the item in the tank?
@@WoodByWrightHowTo I love the patina on an old axe. I've recovered some seriously rusted axes that had to sit in my tank for 24hrs. Makes me wonder if the steel used for axes, because it has a different carbon content for hardening, retains the patina. I need to find a steel tool to restore that doesn't require hardening to compare it too.
This was a fun video, and that is the cutest little engine that can. I think I'd like to see one decked out in your shop colors, would look super awesome. And I know I had suggested taking it back to fresh out the box, but seeing one 100% personalized would be very cool. Maybe we should all go on the hunt and buy the individual pieces of a #1 and mail them to you untill you have the entire plane and then you could have a number 1 that is multiple number 1's at the same time. You mentioned that there are more aggressive ways to remove japanning and im kind of wondering what those are, also I know when I go to paint mine starting with a self etching primer is kind of a no brainer, but as for the paint itself what should I look for in the paint? Like will any old spray work or should I be on the lookout for a specific brand or type? My shop color is going to be burnt orange, with loyalty to the kingdom thrown in (some royal blue highlights), anywho have a great weekend James
For more aggressive removal there's always a wire brush wheel and there's a bunch of different acids that will eat through the Japan and quicker. As to painting once it's been primed you can use most anything.
It's often just because they were kept near the finish supplies and that's also where most people store their paint. Pounding paint lids down or cleaning off brushes. There's always spatter around that area of the shop
Cute little thing, was it designed as a child's plane or a miniature demonstration piece for sales reps to show to shops? Lovely first cut, nicely renovated. Never seen one of those before, let alone see one in action. Definitely not a toy, even for the size of it!
there are alot of different theories about that. im actually reading the official bailey hand plane book atm so soon ill get their version. to state any theory about that as fact is a good way to start an argument with some people.
Unfortunately no one really knows. None of the advertisements list those reasons. And the to is even too small for most kids hands. My 9 and 10 year olds have a hard time holding it. In the end the reason they made it is that people wanted to buy it. And it's had the ethos since at least the 1910's.
Of course that particular plane was for someone else, but when I repair broken totes, I will use completely different species of wood because I love the contrast and how it shows the history of the plane
I'm not a tool snob. If I had a #1, I would restore it to the point of being complete and usable but not make it look as new - and I wouldn't hesitate using it, if it was the only tool that would do a particular job. In fact, I would do as you have done in this video, minus the Japanning; anything that would stop rust would suffice, so black Hammerite or even felt pen would do me...! 😐
About a year or so ago I began messing with hand planes. I used a process I found online called electrolysis on a rusty 1950’s-ish, nothing fancy try plane my dad had in his garage and had never used. I’ve not seen anyone use the process on TH-cam (not that I have searched extensively). Is there any particular reason for this or is it just not a well known process?
I have several videos on the topic. th-cam.com/video/_gNAbvz1B6w/w-d-xo.html In the restoration community I would say it is very well known. probably 1 in 10 use it as their primary method. It is just a very delicate process that can be very destructive if done wrong. a lot of people love it and a lot of people hate it. For most rust removal I find Evaporust or WD40 Specialist to be faster and easier with less chance of removing extra steel but in the end it is just a personal choice.
I saw an ad recently selling a Stanley #1. It looked only lightly or unused and still had its original box. The seller was asking $10000 for it. Sounds waaaay overpriced even for a Stanley #1.
It seems to me that there are three groups of antique tool folks: collectors, users, and user/collectors. I tend to fall in the last group. If you want to spend a lot of money on something that doesn't do anything, get yourself a congressman.
I think most people slowly progress through all three of those. A lot of people start off as users and as they gain and appreciation for the tools they start to collect. As they get older and can't use as often they tend to transition to more just collecting.
@@WoodByWrightHowTo , you’re so right. I’m an old guy who has gone through all three stages, and still have several old tools to look at, several just to use, and several that get used and looked at.
Hello, my name is Freddy, I am an apprentice traditional carpenter, and I follow all your videos and I like them a lot, I would like to know if you can help me get a Stanley #1, in my country it is very difficult to get Stanley planers, I saw your video in a store that has all kinds of carpentry tools, I would restore it , saludos desde Costa Rica
i have no snide remark. i have never shared the facination that some people have with the stanley number one but to each their own. follow your desires and dont let people tell you that yours are somehow wrong. (steps off soap box)
Hello, my name is Freddy, I am an apprentice traditional carpenter, and I follow all your videos and I like them a lot, I would like to know if you can help me get a Stanley #1, in my country it is very difficult to get Stanley planers, I saw your video in a store that has all kinds of carpentry tools, I would restore it
Are your hands really that LARGE? That plane looks like a miniature, in your paws. :D Seriously, I'm watching to see the Japanning process. I've got a Fred Flintstone 5.5 to re cover. steve
Sounds like a fun project. I'd say definitely check out the video by hand tool rescue. There's a link down below. He did the absolute best video ever on japanning.
To me hand tool collectors who never use them. Who acquire them for bragging rights are the same as those old (sometimes in spirit only) goats who acquire old paintings for their eyes only. If a tool has something of its passed users in it. Would it "feel" better seating on someone's work bench or a vault?
Rosewood by itself will almost always turn black over time. Or at least very dark. But there are a lot of different types of rosewood and each one has different characteristics.
After watching your bedrock plane restoration video, I have to ask how much you decreased the value of the number 1 with the restoration you did? You said that repainting the bedrock, repairing the tote or the knob all would decrease the collectible value. Since you did all of those to the #1, a very collectible plane, it’s value must have been greatly diminished. I know it is a friends plane and he asked you to restore it as you did, but did you tell him how much less his plane would be worth after you finished?
thanks in this case the value remained about flat. This one was missing around 50% of the japanning, and the front knob was not there at all. So to begin with it was on the very bottom end of the No.1 range. The No.5 bedrock was actually in great condition with 90%+ of the japanning there and all the original parts. so in that case the value would have dropped, but in this case, it would have remained the same. on the No.1 if I would have just cleaned it like I did the No.5 and replaced the front knob as I did on this one I would have added around $100-$200 to the value.
I have to strongly disagree with your response, you can’t have it both ways. I have been collecting planes for 50+ years and have never repainted a plane. That is the dividing line between a collectible and a user plane. When you refinished the #1 you permanently assigned it to the bottom of the value range and put it onto the slippery slope of the plane refinishers that repaint, sand the cast iron, polish the brass and refinish the knob and tote. I don’t have a problem with the horn repair on the tote, as long as you make some effort to use a different color piece of rosewood, this insures that the tote looks original but does not conceal the repair. I completely agree with your cleaning and treatment of your 605.
@@WoodByWrightHowTo Ahh, you are probably correct. 11:54 is where I noticed it first, I think, but that could have also been a bit of sawdust. Or it could have been a little ding in the metal.
What a savage! One posibility is to put a coating over the origional japaning, that is easily removable with light solvents (conservation layer, often used in painting restoration) Over that conservation layer, you paint blue Tadaa! No harm to the japaning, and a blue no.1
At first I thought, "Surrrrre it's not his... Sneaking one past the wife, huh" but then I thought there's no way it's his because he didn't paint it blue 😋
@@WoodByWrightHowTo I'm one of the biggest Stanley collectors on the east coast..Ask any Stanley collector they will say the same thing..When we collect a Stanley tool or advertising piece we want it untouched. This is a fact.
Great camera work. The close-ups really show us what we need to see. Very clear. Great restoration.
Fantastic job. You're never going to please everyone with this kind of work, but if I had one, I'd want it to work and I'd want to make sure it lasted longer than me, so your work is the perfect solution.
Great work, screw the people that don't like it. They aren't the ones who use it.
Good job. If you need a knob that is a replacement for the no 1 use one off a no 98 or 99. I have a no 1 and both 98 and 99 and they match perfectly. Thank you have a good weekend.
Thanks. That is what I used here.
Hand Tool Rescue is a TH-cam blessing.
For sure!
Nah, he's gross.
It's super cute!! And I'm glad to see one in a good working and usable condition, and although they are more valuable in origional untouched state, what's the fun in that!
James Wright is the No 1 of youtube.
Lol thanks.
Love the working restorations you did a really nice job
I got rid of my #2 for some of the same reasons you've mentioned about the #1. Not actually useful. Let the collectors have their fun, I'll stick to my #3 and up users. Thanks for a very informative video.
Fantastic job looks great and a great video thanks for sharing your time and skill. 🍺🍺👍👍😷
I thought that there was always the Wright way to do it. This video came out this morning, 12/12/2020, and there are already 200 views. Way to go James! When I got done watching this video, I checked the views, and it is now at 351 views.
Thanks Tom. Everyone likes a number one.
Looking forward to the follow up no 1 videos! Nice work
Fantastic work, James! 😃
The plane looks beautiful!
Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
I really like this channel more than the artsy one.
Thanks. This is where my heart is.
Truly beautiful work.
Cool little plane. I like what you did with it.
Great video. I have a number one Stanley. Might be selling it...
Good way to feed the piranhas. So that being said, let me know if you want to sell it lol
It's so wittle 😍
I have nothing to say really, but I appreciate your content, and wish to help with the yt-algorithms
I would have done exactly the same thing...nice save on that beautiful plane.
Great tutorial! This turned out awesome!
Love these planes. They’re meant to be used.
Oddly enough the no. 1 we as not actually ment to be used. The handel is even too all for kids.
It looks amazing!
Hey! So i just picked up a couple planes in a lot of tools, two of them are stanleys, but the other seems to have no identifier? Also, what's the purpose of grooves in the bottom of one?
Corrugated bottoms were sold with the idea that they are easier to push. In fact, they are no easier to push, but they are now collectible. Feel free to send me some pictures. I'd be glad to give you more information.
Fantastic restoration James, think that despite it's collectability, it needed bringing back to fully functioning and useable, would have to be of some significant historical significance not to do anything with it. As to the piece you added to the tote not matching 100%, I would have probably tried using a black tea stain, think that would have done the trick.
Alchahol aneline dye works to match color in this case... you have to experiment to mix the colors in the shellac
You’re good people.
Would the japanning dry if you didn't oven treat it?
In a few weeks to a month yes.
I see where you used multiple layers of paint stripper to cut through the japanning but at 2:42 you said there are better ways to remove the japanning. What are those ways? I have never found a satisfactory method.
Sand blasting is my go to most of the time.
Have you tried using an electrolysis tank to remove paint, rust ant japanning? I prefer it because
It gets everything out, especially in corners you can’t get a brush.
Yep I've done that for quite a few. But I'm not a huge fan of what that does to the patina. Forgetting down to bare metal it's a great way to do it though. Of course my favorite and fastest method is sandblasting but that's a whole nother bottle of wax. Lol
@@WoodByWrightHowTo I use it specifically because it leaves the patina, especially on old axes. I found vinegar to remove the patina if anything. How long are you leaving the item in the tank?
Most of the time with electrolysis I only do an hour most.
@@WoodByWrightHowTo I love the patina on an old axe. I've recovered some seriously rusted axes that had to sit in my tank for 24hrs.
Makes me wonder if the steel used for axes, because it has a different carbon content for hardening, retains the patina.
I need to find a steel tool to restore that doesn't require hardening to compare it too.
you are the best
Have two no ones coming up for sale and a bedrock no two all in very good condition
Where you going to be selling them? I've been looking for a bedrock No.2
This was a fun video, and that is the cutest little engine that can. I think I'd like to see one decked out in your shop colors, would look super awesome. And I know I had suggested taking it back to fresh out the box, but seeing one 100% personalized would be very cool. Maybe we should all go on the hunt and buy the individual pieces of a #1 and mail them to you untill you have the entire plane and then you could have a number 1 that is multiple number 1's at the same time. You mentioned that there are more aggressive ways to remove japanning and im kind of wondering what those are, also I know when I go to paint mine starting with a self etching primer is kind of a no brainer, but as for the paint itself what should I look for in the paint? Like will any old spray work or should I be on the lookout for a specific brand or type? My shop color is going to be burnt orange, with loyalty to the kingdom thrown in (some royal blue highlights), anywho have a great weekend James
For more aggressive removal there's always a wire brush wheel and there's a bunch of different acids that will eat through the Japan and quicker. As to painting once it's been primed you can use most anything.
Nice job. Never seen anyone do real japaning before. I can hardly tell the tote was repaired.
I found my first plane a Handyman n.4 last week and restored it. Still wondering how i could live without such a thing before
Paint spatter - my never ending mystery. How is it that so many of the vintage tools I’ve acquired, especially primo pieces, have paint spatter?
Anyone have an answer to this ,i'm interested!
It's often just because they were kept near the finish supplies and that's also where most people store their paint. Pounding paint lids down or cleaning off brushes. There's always spatter around that area of the shop
Love how the repaired tote looks!
Is it the rarity that makes it so valuable? It came out really nice.
Rarity plus ethos, and it has an iconic nature in the collecting world.
Cute little thing, was it designed as a child's plane or a miniature demonstration piece for sales reps to show to shops?
Lovely first cut, nicely renovated. Never seen one of those before, let alone see one in action. Definitely not a toy, even for the size of it!
there are alot of different theories about that. im actually reading the official bailey hand plane book atm so soon ill get their version. to state any theory about that as fact is a good way to start an argument with some people.
Unfortunately no one really knows. None of the advertisements list those reasons. And the to is even too small for most kids hands. My 9 and 10 year olds have a hard time holding it. In the end the reason they made it is that people wanted to buy it. And it's had the ethos since at least the 1910's.
I think is was originally designed as the woodworker's pencil sharpener. ;)
Of course that particular plane was for someone else, but when I repair broken totes, I will use completely different species of wood because I love the contrast and how it shows the history of the plane
I often like doing that too. Had a little bit of exoticness to it.
I'm not a tool snob. If I had a #1, I would restore it to the point of being complete and usable but not make it look as new - and I wouldn't hesitate using it, if it was the only tool that would do a particular job. In fact, I would do as you have done in this video, minus the Japanning; anything that would stop rust would suffice, so black Hammerite or even felt pen would do me...! 😐
Great work. Enjoyed it very much. Curious....how much did the guy who sent you the plane to restore pay for it? Not the restoration.....the plane.
I did not ask, but I would guess around $900+
@@WoodByWrightHowTo thanks man.
About a year or so ago I began messing with hand planes. I used a process I found online called electrolysis on a rusty 1950’s-ish, nothing fancy try plane my dad had in his garage and had never used. I’ve not seen anyone use the process on TH-cam (not that I have searched extensively). Is there any particular reason for this or is it just not a well known process?
I have several videos on the topic. th-cam.com/video/_gNAbvz1B6w/w-d-xo.html In the restoration community I would say it is very well known. probably 1 in 10 use it as their primary method. It is just a very delicate process that can be very destructive if done wrong. a lot of people love it and a lot of people hate it. For most rust removal I find Evaporust or WD40 Specialist to be faster and easier with less chance of removing extra steel but in the end it is just a personal choice.
You have a very understanding wife.
I saw an ad recently selling a Stanley #1. It looked only lightly or unused and still had its original box. The seller was asking $10000 for it. Sounds waaaay overpriced even for a Stanley #1.
Ya. In the box they are normally going for around $2500
It seems to me that there are three groups of antique tool folks: collectors, users, and user/collectors. I tend to fall in the last group. If you want to spend a lot of money on something that doesn't do anything, get yourself a congressman.
I think most people slowly progress through all three of those. A lot of people start off as users and as they gain and appreciation for the tools they start to collect. As they get older and can't use as often they tend to transition to more just collecting.
@@WoodByWrightHowTo , you’re so right. I’m an old guy who has gone through all three stages, and still have several old tools to look at, several just to use, and several that get used and looked at.
👍👍
Hello, my name is Freddy, I am an apprentice traditional carpenter, and I follow all your videos and I like them a lot, I would like to know if you can help me get a Stanley #1, in my country it is very difficult to get Stanley planers, I saw your video in a store that has all kinds of carpentry tools, I would restore it , saludos desde Costa Rica
Sure would of liked to see the Logo on the blade😢
How many guys can expand their shop into the kitchen? W is very brave.
I have an amazing wife not just for this reason but for many others.
i cooked some blanks that i stabilized in cactus juice in the oven this week.....
i have no snide remark. i have never shared the facination that some people have with the stanley number one but to each their own. follow your desires and dont let people tell you that yours are somehow wrong. (steps off soap box)
Every plane should be brought back to a usable condition. What good is a plane that cant be used, even if you aren't going to use it.
Hello, my name is Freddy, I am an apprentice traditional carpenter, and I follow all your videos and I like them a lot, I would like to know if you can help me get a Stanley #1, in my country it is very difficult to get Stanley planers, I saw your video in a store that has all kinds of carpentry tools, I would restore it
they are really hard to find here. a know a lot of people look for years before they find one and when they do they are usually $1000+
I can’t stand when people try and tell you what to do with your tools. If you wanna paint it pink so it!!!
wowwooo , at last ha 👍
Are your hands really that LARGE?
That plane looks like a miniature, in
your paws. :D
Seriously, I'm watching to see the
Japanning process. I've got a
Fred Flintstone 5.5 to re cover.
steve
Sounds like a fun project. I'd say definitely check out the video by hand tool rescue. There's a link down below. He did the absolute best video ever on japanning.
To me hand tool collectors who never use them. Who acquire them for bragging rights are the same as those old (sometimes in spirit only) goats who acquire old paintings for their eyes only. If a tool has something of its passed users in it. Would it "feel" better seating on someone's work bench or a vault?
I've always read that BLO will turn rosewood black over time.
Rosewood by itself will almost always turn black over time. Or at least very dark. But there are a lot of different types of rosewood and each one has different characteristics.
nice paperweight.
There’s no right or wrong way, there is the Wright way.
After watching your bedrock plane restoration video, I have to ask how much you decreased the value of the number 1 with the restoration you did? You said that repainting the bedrock, repairing the tote or the knob all would decrease the collectible value. Since you did all of those to the #1, a very collectible plane, it’s value must have been greatly diminished. I know it is a friends plane and he asked you to restore it as you did, but did you tell him how much less his plane would be worth after you finished?
thanks in this case the value remained about flat. This one was missing around 50% of the japanning, and the front knob was not there at all. So to begin with it was on the very bottom end of the No.1 range. The No.5 bedrock was actually in great condition with 90%+ of the japanning there and all the original parts. so in that case the value would have dropped, but in this case, it would have remained the same. on the No.1 if I would have just cleaned it like I did the No.5 and replaced the front knob as I did on this one I would have added around $100-$200 to the value.
I have to strongly disagree with your response, you can’t have it both ways. I have been collecting planes for 50+ years and have never repainted a plane. That is the dividing line between a collectible and a user plane. When you refinished the #1 you permanently assigned it to the bottom of the value range and put it onto the slippery slope of the plane refinishers that repaint, sand the cast iron, polish the brass and refinish the knob and tote. I don’t have a problem with the horn repair on the tote, as long as you make some effort to use a different color piece of rosewood, this insures that the tote looks original but does not conceal the repair. I completely agree with your cleaning and treatment of your 605.
@@swig46 I guess none of that matters as the owner wanted it to be a useable plane 🤷♂️
I present for the wife could be a toaster over for you lol
I used to have one. But it died on me a while back. This one was small enough she didn't even notice it.
@@WoodByWrightHowTo I also am a ask for forgiveness than permission type of man, lol
A small plane. So it's an ultralight?
It still looks like it has white paint speckles on it... or is it just me?
That's just you. I think you might be seeing the reflection of the lights on the new glossy japanning
@@WoodByWrightHowTo Ahh, you are probably correct. 11:54 is where I noticed it first, I think, but that could have also been a bit of sawdust. Or it could have been a little ding in the metal.
"... So I decided to redo the japanning--" *RECORD SCRATCH*
One of these days I'm going to get a number one and paint it blue to match my others.
What a savage!
One posibility is to put a coating over the origional japaning, that is easily removable with light solvents (conservation layer, often used in painting restoration)
Over that conservation layer, you paint blue
Tadaa! No harm to the japaning, and a blue no.1
@@WoodByWrightHowTo You really should! Let's make tools do what they where meant to. Always fun pissing the cork sniffers off.
At first I thought, "Surrrrre it's not his... Sneaking one past the wife, huh" but then I thought there's no way it's his because he didn't paint it blue 😋
Bingo. Someday I'm going to get one and it's going to turn blue.
11th.
First
Woot woot. Congrats on first.
@@WoodByWrightHowTo thanks James great video btw
What is this, a plane for ants?
Remember a Stanley #1 plane restored is worth about 600.00 ..Unrestored in any condition is worth 1000.00. So think before you restore your #1.
I would contest that. I have seen a few done well go for well over $1200
@@WoodByWrightHowTo I'm one of the biggest Stanley collectors on the east coast..Ask any Stanley collector they will say the same thing..When we collect a Stanley tool or advertising piece we want it untouched. This is a fact.
Mate seriously just bye a little bench grinder with a wire wheel cmon
Lol now that would be fun.
It was better before r estoration