Everyone in this trade thinks the way they do it is the best way or the only correct way. I've been doing for 32 years union and non union and that duct line looks good to me. Just keep doing what works for you and have pride in your work and you will go far!
Hell yeah I agree! Thanks I appreciate that. I’m now a Forman for the company I work for and I tell my new helper all the time to take their time and do it right to my standard the first time then needing to go back to sloppy work and waste time fixing things. As long as it’s done right I’m happy!
I can’t stand using strap.. it takes too long.. also, measure off the stud to the edge of the duct ahead of time so you know it’s straight after you install the cut joint.
I was an insulation and sheet metal mechanic for years but I start my new job as a helper, hanging duct next week. I look forward to more videos from which I can learn from. 🤙
Right on man! Good luck with your new job hope my videos will help you. I just bought my first house and I hope to set up my garage/shop into a studio to be able to make more education videos.
All you need is a one piece hanger. Mark the top of pipe on the hanger from there measure down the circumference of the pipe, bend it at the mark. Put up pipe, wrap hanger around pipe, grip it, screw it.
I do it like this, but I use the excess strap as leverage to adjust my strap to get it Uber tight, no tunnels on my strap. Good job do, everyone has their way 👏 👍
If you made a 1 piece hanger with holes punched for 1/4-20 bolts and nut You can then wrap your one piece stick a bolt thru the holes start the nut run it in until the duct is level. Go back and screw the duct on to the Sq to Rd or tap or reducer or what have you. Also a friction pulley works good if you have 10' lengths and you are by yourself. Provided you have a spot to hang a pulley. Not many jobs I have been on you don't have a spot to hang a rope friction pulley. We normally run all our hangers 1st with a laser make all one piece hangers set to height and roll.
If you cut your hanger coming down to the same height as the of the pipe you are connecting to, and then screw your belly band to the top of the pipe on both sides, then you can use your vice grip locking tool preferably long needle nose to hold in place, when the bottom of the strap hits the top of the pipe you know you're at the right height. Don't get me wrong your way is great, just another way of doing things, been in the trade for 40 years and haven't seen it all by a long shot
Finally some proper duct installation. Kudos for the quality, it's interesting watching the many ways people do install. A question I did have is why the rotary drill? Does your company not supply a nail gun? Those things are just as clunky as the rotary but they are faster and you don't have to carry the hit pins.
Hi im still confused What kind of hangers are those? Does the hanger go around the entire circumference of the spiral or just a piece of hanger with a screw into the top of the spiral? Do you measure wall to center of spiral or wall to side of spiral in order to keep duct uniform? What are you screwing into the ceiling? Wood beams? Do you add hangers near every joint for better support? Plz help
There’s different ways to hang the duct for it to stay parallel with the wall I like to measure from wall to center of duct all the way to the end of the pipe. Hangers should be placed per smacna or international code book or local code book in my case I like to put hangers a foot before the end of the runs, before any turns or offsets, and every 8’ that also applies for rectangle ductwork. And also we use hit pins or also called mail sets to attach the hangers to the concrete deck above. We do that by using a hammer drill with a 1/4 drill bit.
I have never seen a hanger done this way. I've always seen grapple hangers, which I prefer, or hanger strap wrapped around the pipe. But I'm in Washington state so things might be different.
There isn’t a bead for the pipe to be seated in, there’s two inches of metal in the duct already which is plenty of metal for a screw to find. There are four screws on the duct, bottom top and sides. This is also an edited video so you don’t see the part where I’m checking to see if it’s straight. If it’s off plus or minus 1/4” it wouldn’t make a difference and wouldn’t be able to even notice honestly. The hangers I use are 1” hanger strap that are 16 gauge metal. You can see on another video on my page how i make them. We install duct per SMACNA standards or by engineers specifications.we also use gripple only when there is exposed duct work.
Wow they wouldn't let me do my exposed duct until drywall tape and paint was done. I used cable and locks.i assuming that duct is exposed because it spiral. I ducted 200 apartments and 20 class rooms. The cables worked out good.
No not exposed duct. Snap lock just isn’t ridged enough. I only really like using snap lock for branch duct coming off of rectangle duct work. This trade is interesting because you can achieve the same thing so many different ways.
Apartments are different than what this jobsite is. judging by the protectant on the beams the copper lines, data cables, concrete floor above and the metal studs this isn't light commercial. Apartments, retirement homes, and dorms don't have the requirements that heavier commercial construction does. Cables are wonderful though we use them quite often.
@@NoBody-ro3xj yes I love using cable, specifically the gripple brand or duro dyne. And yes you are right this is a lab we a building we had two floors in this building here in Boston
@@SheetmetalHVAC__ I'm only 4 years but we have done 2 complete schools, an aerospace production building, a retirement home, climbing gym and we are on the third school. We use the duro dyne a lot. Gyms are the best. Everyone calls everything gripple. It's no wonder people are always confused 😂😆.
What do you mean by back to back off set? Are you saying if I had let’s say a 10” round duct and then at some point there was going to be an offset up 20”, how to set up hangers for a situation like that?
@@omozusibenji so I typically will have a hanger holding the duct before and after the set so that the duct is supported at both of the different heights and also so the offset wont have weight on it for an offset that changes height I would set my hanger before let’s say the 45 find out how long my piece is between the other 45, then add the other 45 and then that will give me where I can set up the next hanger. It’s pretty hard for me to explain but that gives me an idea for another video… stay tuned and I’ll have one posted soon on this. I’m better at showing then explaining :p
@@SheetmetalHVAC__ cool thanks how would you hang hangers when the the elevation is not given and the duct is changing size like 12x12 transitioning to 8x8 with a 9 feet 8inch
@@omozusibenji so the easiest way for me to set up hangers for something like that is to find the center of the duct and measure out the size of the duct. So let’s say the transitions are on center then I would first find my center mark, I usually set up a laser but you can also snap a chalk line on the floor. If I’m issuing a laser I’ll go up to the deck and measure 6” to the left and 6” to the right for the 12x12 then I’ll set up my next hanger 8 feet up and if it’s on the 8x8 then I measure 4” to the left of the line and 4” to the right of the line and then the next hanger 8 feet up the line let’s say it’s 8” round and if I set up my centerline already then the line is where the center for my 8” round would be. Do you have Instagram?
This is absolutely the worst way I've seen to hang duct u don't need to do your strap 4 times. Also takes way to long shoot ALL YOUR STRAPS FIRST cut them long enough to go all the way around and hang it with that ONE pice it's way more efficient
@@SheetmetalHVAC__ I assume he means how many times the strap was cut but he just commented poorly without explaining. I would challenge the original poster to give times on how what he is saying is faster. Most people who say these things don't have data to back it up. Just like hanging 8' of square duct is faster than hanging 4'.
@@NoBody-ro3xj honestly I tell all my guys, do it the way you know how to do best. I don’t care about speed honestly. We make big money on jobs and I get paid by the hour as well… I just like to see work being done clean and right.
Have three months in this wanted to learn more hacks from different people and I found you. Very good work appreciate your video
Everyone in this trade thinks the way they do it is the best way or the only correct way. I've been doing for 32 years union and non union and that duct line looks good to me. Just keep doing what works for you and have pride in your work and you will go far!
Hell yeah I agree! Thanks I appreciate that. I’m now a Forman for the company I work for and I tell my new helper all the time to take their time and do it right to my standard the first time then needing to go back to sloppy work and waste time fixing things. As long as it’s done right I’m happy!
“A thousand ways to do one thing”
I can’t stand using strap.. it takes too long.. also, measure off the stud to the edge of the duct ahead of time so you know it’s straight after you install the cut joint.
I was an insulation and sheet metal mechanic for years but I start my new job as a helper, hanging duct next week. I look forward to more videos from which I can learn from. 🤙
Right on man! Good luck with your new job hope my videos will help you. I just bought my first house and I hope to set up my garage/shop into a studio to be able to make more education videos.
Cool man, I’ll be doing this tomorrow. I just got into HVAC, I’m an apprentice.
Right on dude! Check out the other videos I have explaining hangers and whatever. I’ll be posting more videos just finishing my garage project…
All you need is a one piece hanger. Mark the top of pipe on the hanger from there measure down the circumference of the pipe, bend it at the mark. Put up pipe, wrap hanger around pipe, grip it, screw it.
I do it like this, but I use the excess strap as leverage to adjust my strap to get it Uber tight, no tunnels on my strap. Good job do, everyone has their way 👏 👍
If you made a 1 piece hanger with holes punched for 1/4-20 bolts and nut You can then wrap your one piece stick a bolt thru the holes start the nut run it in until the duct is level. Go back and screw the duct on to the Sq to Rd or tap or reducer or what have you. Also a friction pulley works good if you have 10' lengths and you are by yourself. Provided you have a spot to hang a pulley. Not many jobs I have been on you don't have a spot to hang a rope friction pulley. We normally run all our hangers 1st with a laser make all one piece hangers set to height and roll.
If you cut your hanger coming down to the same height as the of the pipe you are connecting to, and then screw your belly band to the top of the pipe on both sides, then you can use your vice grip locking tool preferably long needle nose to hold in place, when the bottom of the strap hits the top of the pipe you know you're at the right height. Don't get me wrong your way is great, just another way of doing things, been in the trade for 40 years and haven't seen it all by a long shot
Thanks for the good tip. Sounds like that also cuts down on labor time as well.
Thanks man .. clean and to the point
Finally some proper duct installation. Kudos for the quality, it's interesting watching the many ways people do install. A question I did have is why the rotary drill? Does your company not supply a nail gun? Those things are just as clunky as the rotary but they are faster and you don't have to carry the hit pins.
Thank you very much! When you say nail gun do you mean like a powder actuated gun?
@@SheetmetalHVAC__ yes that's what I'm talking about.
where is your face shield? good video
Thank you! 👍
Thanks for your video!
Medford Wellington?! Is that what I’m reading on the hard hat?
Yes sir are you familiar
Hi im still confused
What kind of hangers are those?
Does the hanger go around the entire circumference of the spiral or just a piece of hanger with a screw into the top of the spiral?
Do you measure wall to center of spiral or wall to side of spiral in order to keep duct uniform?
What are you screwing into the ceiling? Wood beams?
Do you add hangers near every joint for better support?
Plz help
Yes the hanger goes all around the pipe. You can watch a few other videos and see how the hanger is mounted
There’s different ways to hang the duct for it to stay parallel with the wall I like to measure from wall to center of duct all the way to the end of the pipe. Hangers should be placed per smacna or international code book or local code book in my case I like to put hangers a foot before the end of the runs, before any turns or offsets, and every 8’ that also applies for rectangle ductwork. And also we use hit pins or also called mail sets to attach the hangers to the concrete deck above. We do that by using a hammer drill with a 1/4 drill bit.
@@SheetmetalHVAC__ thanks for answering all my questions
Pie*diamter and add 3/8” it’ll allow the band to snug up nicely around the outside over and should end up fairly tight.
Why would not put a screw bottom and top. Check to see if it's straight. Then the side screws? Also why is your pipe not completely against the bead?
I have never seen a hanger done this way. I've always seen grapple hangers, which I prefer, or hanger strap wrapped around the pipe. But I'm in Washington state so things might be different.
There isn’t a bead for the pipe to be seated in, there’s two inches of metal in the duct already which is plenty of metal for a screw to find. There are four screws on the duct, bottom top and sides. This is also an edited video so you don’t see the part where I’m checking to see if it’s straight. If it’s off plus or minus 1/4” it wouldn’t make a difference and wouldn’t be able to even notice honestly. The hangers I use are 1” hanger strap that are 16 gauge metal. You can see on another video on my page how i make them. We install duct per SMACNA standards or by engineers specifications.we also use gripple only when there is exposed duct work.
@@SheetmetalHVAC__ There's also seen it and Doing it. Great Job, too much seeing and not enough doing makes for Shitty Critic's.
@@Gcanno thanks bud
Nice work bro 👌🏼
Thanks bud much appreciated
Damn that’s some thick guage duct
I recommend a 12” level for yoi
I used to use one just felt super bulky in my tool belt so I would run the 6” but now I just upgraded to another brand that’s 8”
laser level. one piece hangers. Do a whole room first then hang the duct. time is money.
Thanks for the tip I’ll have to do that next time
Wow they wouldn't let me do my exposed duct until drywall tape and paint was done. I used cable and locks.i assuming that duct is exposed because it spiral. I ducted 200 apartments and 20 class rooms. The cables worked out good.
No not exposed duct. Snap lock just isn’t ridged enough. I only really like using snap lock for branch duct coming off of rectangle duct work. This trade is interesting because you can achieve the same thing so many different ways.
Apartments are different than what this jobsite is. judging by the protectant on the beams the copper lines, data cables, concrete floor above and the metal studs this isn't light commercial. Apartments, retirement homes, and dorms don't have the requirements that heavier commercial construction does. Cables are wonderful though we use them quite often.
@@NoBody-ro3xj yes I love using cable, specifically the gripple brand or duro dyne. And yes you are right this is a lab we a building we had two floors in this building here in Boston
@@SheetmetalHVAC__ I'm only 4 years but we have done 2 complete schools, an aerospace production building, a retirement home, climbing gym and we are on the third school. We use the duro dyne a lot. Gyms are the best. Everyone calls everything gripple. It's no wonder people are always confused 😂😆.
Good gob brother
How do you layout hangers for a back to back offset
What do you mean by back to back off set? Are you saying if I had let’s say a 10” round duct and then at some point there was going to be an offset up 20”, how to set up hangers for a situation like that?
@@SheetmetalHVAC__ yes
@@omozusibenji so I typically will have a hanger holding the duct before and after the set so that the duct is supported at both of the different heights and also so the offset wont have weight on it for an offset that changes height I would set my hanger before let’s say the 45 find out how long my piece is between the other 45, then add the other 45 and then that will give me where I can set up the next hanger. It’s pretty hard for me to explain but that gives me an idea for another video… stay tuned and I’ll have one posted soon on this. I’m better at showing then explaining :p
@@SheetmetalHVAC__ cool thanks how would you hang hangers when the the elevation is not given and the duct is changing size like 12x12 transitioning to 8x8 with a 9 feet 8inch
@@omozusibenji so the easiest way for me to set up hangers for something like that is to find the center of the duct and measure out the size of the duct. So let’s say the transitions are on center then I would first find my center mark, I usually set up a laser but you can also snap a chalk line on the floor. If I’m issuing a laser I’ll go up to the deck and measure 6” to the left and 6” to the right for the 12x12 then I’ll set up my next hanger 8 feet up and if it’s on the 8x8 then I measure 4” to the left of the line and 4” to the right of the line and then the next hanger 8 feet up the line let’s say it’s 8” round and if I set up my centerline already then the line is where the center for my 8” round would be. Do you have Instagram?
use better 3 prong crimpers and the duct will slip over the collar
easier.
Why you not using mastic? Don’t say because it’s extract 😂
This is absolutely the worst way I've seen to hang duct u don't need to do your strap 4 times. Also takes way to long shoot ALL YOUR STRAPS FIRST cut them long enough to go all the way around and hang it with that ONE pice it's way more efficient
What do you mean shoot all your strap 4 times? I’m honestly not understanding your opinion on how I hang duct.
@@SheetmetalHVAC__ I assume he means how many times the strap was cut but he just commented poorly without explaining. I would challenge the original poster to give times on how what he is saying is faster. Most people who say these things don't have data to back it up. Just like hanging 8' of square duct is faster than hanging 4'.
@@NoBody-ro3xj honestly I tell all my guys, do it the way you know how to do best. I don’t care about speed honestly. We make big money on jobs and I get paid by the hour as well… I just like to see work being done clean and right.
@@SheetmetalHVAC__ this is the way
I would love to see you try your method using 18 ga hangers by yourself
Seriously who are you going to infect with that mask on? By yourself and a mask? What’s the reasoning?
Working in a medical school in Boston I have too but yes I 100 percent agree with you.
Ask ten mechanics and you will find ten different ways to hang duct.
Very true