I graduate Ryerson University in 1985 with a degree in Applied Photography. Back then we were not allowed to use plastic reels.. You had to use metal reels and tanks. The plastic reels caused issues during the agitation process. They would interfere with the smooth agitation of the chemicals around the sprocket holes and edges causing uneven development. Also never ever squeegee the water off your film, you might scratch it. If you used the right amount of photo flow the film should drip dry nicely. Your agitation technique is very good, just like we were taught.
Thank you 😃 i will try hanging without wiping the film and check the results 😃 i didnt notice anything wrong with development in my reals but i can understand that the metal ones are better. Too expensive for me currently xp the old plastic ones just annoy me because when wet, its extremely hard to get film on them xp i hope thats not the case for metal ones…
24:22 Ahhaa, before development, I learned to wash/dilute the film base paint in the tank with water, half a minute is OK. So, you don't bother with that step. Clear, thank you. 24:58 you don't use a development stoppel (Fomacitro, for example) before applying fixer.
yes, i learned that there is no difference for black and white in low temperature. the pre wash comes handy when you want to increase the films temperature when you are doing a high temp development like for example for color. but even there in my experimentation, rolls come out exactly alike no matter if i do it or not so i myself am interested if thats just a relic of the past when chemistry was different :)
i used to have that special tool but had lots of scratches and seen many videos where they do it this way, i gave it a try and all is perfect ;P after the photoflo bath i never have any marks left after drying :)
I graduate Ryerson University in 1985 with a degree in Applied Photography. Back then we were not allowed to use plastic reels.. You had to use metal reels and tanks. The plastic reels caused issues during the agitation process. They would interfere with the smooth agitation of the chemicals around the sprocket holes and edges causing uneven development. Also never ever squeegee the water off your film, you might scratch it. If you used the right amount of photo flow the film should drip dry nicely. Your agitation technique is very good, just like we were taught.
Thank you 😃 i will try hanging without wiping the film and check the results 😃 i didnt notice anything wrong with development in my reals but i can understand that the metal ones are better. Too expensive for me currently xp the old plastic ones just annoy me because when wet, its extremely hard to get film on them xp i hope thats not the case for metal ones…
24:22 Ahhaa, before development, I learned to wash/dilute the film base paint in the tank with water, half a minute is OK. So, you don't bother with that step. Clear, thank you. 24:58 you don't use a development stoppel (Fomacitro, for example) before applying fixer.
yes, i learned that there is no difference for black and white in low temperature. the pre wash comes handy when you want to increase the films temperature when you are doing a high temp development like for example for color. but even there in my experimentation, rolls come out exactly alike no matter if i do it or not so i myself am interested if thats just a relic of the past when chemistry was different :)
thanks for the video very useful informations
Im glad you liked it! 😃
Very good
thank you! :D
what is your favorite developer and film? 😃
All good until you gave the film the " Two Fingers " I use the Chamois Leather method, zero marks on the negatives.
i used to have that special tool but had lots of scratches and seen many videos where they do it this way, i gave it a try and all is perfect ;P after the photoflo bath i never have any marks left after drying :)