Here's a quick hint: Lithium batteries and heat are a bad combination. Heat the single leg (usually the negative) and when the solder reflows, tilt the battery back so the leg pulls through the board, then, rock the battery back and forth until the positive legs break off and then desolder the remnants of the legs. The object here is not to overheat the battery or heat-stress the board.
If you insert the positive pin of this battery holder into the other through-hole, it fits without needing to modify the shielding. It fits snug against the memory chips.
Do you happen to have a link to this holder? I'm aware it's 3 years later, but this is the best mod I've seen yet. Also, do you think doing it that way would prevent model 2 shield modifications as well?
Good repair, but, dude, you really need to invest in a desolder station, even a cheap one. You had a right time with desoldering braid. I used to use braid, until I got a desolder station for a birthday, and never looked back! You'll never use braid again! Top work though
I agree. I firstly need to work on a better place to do all this work. Right now i get to haul everything out and set up on a table. Next year id like to set up a room as a workshop, get some better storage and everything.
Do you have a link to the battery holder you used, and is this the same for the model 2? You've got the best battery holder mod ive seen, but can find this dang thing!
Bonkers how these batteries are permanent. Why don't they rely on something easy to replace like a AA? Even GB Carts, I get that a AA or AAA would be too thick, but why didn't Nintendo make the watch battery a socket?
Alkaline batteries leak badly and destroy boards because the alkaline is corrosive. I've literally worked on and repaired thousands of alkaline corroded boards and it's not fun.
I've donea couple, the biggest thing is that pin connector, but a couple other fairly common things. Those frontloader NES systems were pretty hardy. The SNES is super unreliable however.
How about a New Nintendo 3DS? Specifically, the cartridge slot sometimes reading the cartridge and sometimes not, even tho the game card is in the slot.
Trouble with alot of the newer systems is the components are so small and surface mounted, you need some specialized equipment which i dont have. Physical things like the reader is one thing, but the chips and caps are a whole other story
Got it on this crappy arm that mounts to a tripod so i can move it around, but sometimes i knock it and it has some bounce. Need to find a better solution
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Great vid. I don't do repairs but I enjoy seeing you disassemble and repair these consoles. Kinda relaxing.
Here's a quick hint: Lithium batteries and heat are a bad combination. Heat the single leg (usually the negative) and when the solder reflows, tilt the battery back so the leg pulls through the board, then, rock the battery back and forth until the positive legs break off and then desolder the remnants of the legs. The object here is not to overheat the battery or heat-stress the board.
If you insert the positive pin of this battery holder into the other through-hole, it fits without needing to modify the shielding. It fits snug against the memory chips.
Do you happen to have a link to this holder? I'm aware it's 3 years later, but this is the best mod I've seen yet. Also, do you think doing it that way would prevent model 2 shield modifications as well?
I sooooo appreciate you sharing your time & expertise! I try to learn/absorb everything I can. Again, thank you!
Good repair, but, dude, you really need to invest in a desolder station, even a cheap one. You had a right time with desoldering braid. I used to use braid, until I got a desolder station for a birthday, and never looked back! You'll never use braid again! Top work though
I agree. I firstly need to work on a better place to do all this work. Right now i get to haul everything out and set up on a table. Next year id like to set up a room as a workshop, get some better storage and everything.
Which Desolder station?
What desoldering station/equipment do you now own? Thx!
@@RetroRepairs Any way I can message you offline (email, etc.)? Have question. Thank you!
you´ve inspired me to join the retrogaming community.
Got a GBC now :)
Nice! Lots of gems for that system
Amazing video as allways :3
You really inspire me man! i really enjoy your videos :)
Awesome to hear! The final part of this series will be uploaded tomorrow
@@RetroRepairs great man!! I can't wait to watch it :D
4:00 words to live by. 😔👌
Hope you and Kona are doing great!
I hope that some day I would be as good at soldering as you !
If you want to see some good soldering, check out Ben Heck.
I thought this was MyMateVince for a sec :P
This was a pretty informative and entertaining video but man the lighting makes the video look like it was made in 1993.
Do you have a link to the battery holder you used, and is this the same for the model 2? You've got the best battery holder mod ive seen, but can find this dang thing!
I have 5 of Sega CD model 1 please can you fix them 😥
Bonkers how these batteries are permanent. Why don't they rely on something easy to replace like a AA? Even GB Carts, I get that a AA or AAA would be too thick, but why didn't Nintendo make the watch battery a socket?
To save on costs and space mostly. The intention isn't for end users to repair things, so requiring soldering helped generate repair money too
They probably also didnt count on their stuff being in demand 20-30 years later
Alkaline batteries leak badly and destroy boards because the alkaline is corrosive. I've literally worked on and repaired thousands of alkaline corroded boards and it's not fun.
You should replace the caps on the main board on the sega cd 1 they are prone to fail
That's part 3 being uploaded this evening
Hey, you should do the NES. The first model. That thing is prone to failures.
I've donea couple, the biggest thing is that pin connector, but a couple other fairly common things. Those frontloader NES systems were pretty hardy. The SNES is super unreliable however.
How about a New Nintendo 3DS? Specifically, the cartridge slot sometimes reading the cartridge and sometimes not, even tho the game card is in the slot.
Trouble with alot of the newer systems is the components are so small and surface mounted, you need some specialized equipment which i dont have. Physical things like the reader is one thing, but the chips and caps are a whole other story
It wasnt very good system. I got one when it was released. It periodically had issues out of nowhere. A weak library didn’t help either.
Why does the camera swing?
Got it on this crappy arm that mounts to a tripod so i can move it around, but sometimes i knock it and it has some bounce. Need to find a better solution
RetroRepairs ah okay.
Could of used capton tape
Do you repair model 1 sent to you
I don't typically do mail in repairs, shipping to canada can get pricy. Whats the problem with it?
Have one don't power on
And the other one tray goes in and second later opens back up
Not uncommon issues with the model 1. Send me an email to retrorepairsca@gmail.com and we can chat.
And I'm sure battery needs replacing
Always a good idea. While you're in there, it doesnt make sense not to
First comment!