Excellent choice. We used helical piles for our cabin footing 8 years ago. We had very wet soil conditions due to springs and the helicals were the perfect solution. Ours were driven 35ft into the ground to get into good solid ground. They also added piles diagonally on each corner to prevent lateral movement. They used a Bobcat for all of the work and clean-up consisted of raking out the yard. It worked great and has held up beautifully.
I wasn’t too sure about this when I saw the guys wearing sneakers (one without laces), but they worked well together and clearly knew what they were doing. Awesome that it didn’t require removing the deck or landscaping. $1,600 sounds like a heck of a deal to me.
Early on in my career as a civil engineer, I specified the use of helical piers to jack up houses that had significant settlement. They were a fairly new technology 25 years ago in our area, but they worked beautifully. Thank you for sharing your experience building your remodel.
For such a small gain in square footage and for such a small space, it’s ok to just pour an 8” slab and tie in to the other walls. You are a TH-cam star so I applaud your success Matt.
That wouldn’t be code compliant. You would have a conditioned space on a non frost protected portion of the foundation. That portion, even as small as it is, could move differently than the rest and start to separate from the house. Frost depth there is at 42” below grade, so any foundation would need to be below that to be compliant.
Yeah we decided that since it would make for an odd floor plan on the basement level, the time and cost to install a concrete foundation wasn’t worth it
Never seen a system like that before. Very interesting. Definitely a time and back saver if budgeting allows. This series has been a total home run so far, and you haven't even gotten to the inside yet.
I’ve also seen them used to support a concrete slab in bad soil. They drive the engineered number of these down to solid ground and tie them to the slab.
Hi Matt today 11-18-21 I have discovered your channel .. I love your dedication to wood and all the work you put into it. I will start watching from your first video, to get to the present time ... Thank you for sharing your daily life. !!!
Those are cool, where I worked on a beach they used a similar thing to make the footings for an entire restaurant on the sand, the ones they used looked like massive tapcons on steroids but the same basic idea, the whole thing was done in a few hours and they started throwing the building together, very cool tech.
My son worked part time for an installer they put in a few on ranches for remote solar panels. One job they put them on an unstable hill side 35 ft down for a deck. Previous the home owner twice had massive concrete pilings poured that failed both times.
Very interesting system, My house here in Victoria Australia has a rock shelf that covers most of my land, at 70 cm depth, had to pay extra to blast thru it in some places for pipe work, totally different to your sand, here you can not put a shovel into the ground any where with out hitting a rock.
I worked for a company, and helped put some of those in on the Cirrus Aircraft factory up in Duluth. They put an addition on between 15yrs and 20yrs ago. Had to cut a notch into the footings on the foundation of the main factory, and attach then to the footings. Wet saw into the concrete and rebar, kinda sucked in November, very cool system though.
great video. right to the point, good frank weighing of pros/cons/considerations, and I appreciated the description from the gentleman doing the install.
Great job on the video Matt. If you keep this up, I just might have to make some Braciole and send some up to you to enjoy! My mom's recipe. Let's hear it for Italian moms!
Very cool system Matt.. certainly the best choice for that location and soil type.. Nice tricky location for the crew as well.. they seemed to handle it with zero sweat.. cheers :)
Matt, I think somebody screwed up and really put the screws to you! Haha Thanks for showing us that technology! The fact that they could put them in with such a low overhang was amazing!
Guess I'm too cheap to appreciate this one. Must of taken some convincing for Lindsey to get on board too? Keep the project videos coming I'm enjoying the progress.
I saw those screw piles on Home Reno vision DIY channel. Very cool. I wonder if there might also be some environmental benefit from not pouring yards of concrete for footings.
The helical people in my area generally spec $400-800 per pier for standard deck piers. Totally worth it compared to mixing concrete. I’ve interfaced with Goliath tech in the past. Their product is good and the company is great.
From Wikipedia Alexander Mitchell invented the screwpile, he patented his wrought-iron screwpile design in England in 1833. It was used extensively for lighthouses on Chesapeake Bay. I first heard of this at the Chesapeake Bay Maritime Museum. Nice to see it’s still in use.
Very interesting for sure.. Thanks for sharing.. So let see... If new addition settles, it can now be adjusted upwards in a few turns of a screw.. If old house settles you can take new addition with it in the same manner..
I had 8 Helical piers put under and around a corner of my foundation that was settling a few years back. Two were screwed down more that 45 feet before the torque was high enough. I live along a river basin in the piedmont of NC and the soil here is quite loose. The company that did it had to come back a couple times to re-do the torque after we a had a little additional settling occur. They have a lifetime warranty on the piers. They also used a small excavator with a hydraulic motor to screw them in. Here's a video of them doing some re-torqueing. th-cam.com/video/ragvcCLOkSo/w-d-xo.html
Another reason to use piles is they drop the elevation of the bearing pressure down near the tip of the pile so if you are trying to install a footing next to a retaining wall (which appears to be the case on your house) you can avoid surcharging the wall.
I love the fact, that the machine records the torque applied to each screw. That's hard data, unlike the classic concrete footings. Yes, footings have been around for many years, and yes, it's possible to calculate how large, how deep and whatnot, you must go, to meet the engineering spec. But, really, there's still guesswork for traditional footings, with respect to what is actually down there in the soil. The solution is to over-engineer the footing, to compensate for the unknown. You just hope you overcompensated enough.... with the screw footings, you eliminate the guesswork entirely. My question is, do they also have stainless steel options, for when the soil is very acidic or alkaline? Sure, it'd cost more, but that would be offset by certain longevity with using stainless. Of course, stainless is not as strong, so you'd need heavier tubing and bolts.
Thanks for this videos on your house additions.. i have been following for quite while and enjoy your style. I am interested in seeing this particular video because I am interested in helical piers for quite a while.
Sounds like a really good idea I’m gonna build a probably a 14 x 24 small house to live in while I’m building a 35 x 80 garage and 1700 ft.² on a full basement while I’m building all of that and this would be an excellent choice depends on costs
@@mcremona wow. I had a farm in northwest Ohio. I had a pond dug and by the time they got down 18" there was clay and I was told that clay would hold water. It did. Bedrock is about 10' down in that area.
so we were going to use this in manitoba cause we have very poor soils for foundations this was in 1994 so there still wasnt alot of operators to do the job
All up and down the Chesapeake Bay the lighthouses are supported by screw piles, and, of course, are referred to as the Screw-pile Lighthouses. See the Wikipedia article: en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Screw-pile_lighthouse
Curious why the posts and helicals were even needed... ~16ft beam clear span supporting that size addition should have been pretty simple. It would have added load to the existing walls but maybe there's something I am missing.
At 1:43, you can see that the ends of the beam are cantilevered past the posts (i.e., not attached to the house). Why that is though, you'd have to ask the engineer.
They use screw piles on a lot of large commercial construction sights. If a building is not very tall but will create a lot of weight installing screw piles is the most economical way to bolster the foundations carrying weight. They can also be installed where very heavy equipment is going to be placed on a slab without digging out and pouring a really thick concrete slab.
@@mcremona Another useful application was made by someone I know. After installing the helical piers at around the foundation of a slab-on-grade pour, a plate was welded to the top of the helical pier and the reinforcement bars were laid across and welded to that plate. At the location where the electrical service was going to be installed and a couple other places, a piece of reinforcement bar was bent up so it would stick out of the concrete. He was then able to attach the house ground circuit to the piece of reinforcement bar to create an earth ground. So, instead of just one bar driven into the ground outside the building, every inch of reinforcement bar in the foundation and the couple dozen helical piers they were attached to all became the earth ground for the building.
just did these on Westside of Minnapolis, for a new deck work great as long as to don't hit a rock. that is so big you can't drill around it and have to move a footing Did 3 footings for $1000
Matt we were looking at using screw pile for pipe supports in the NWT where there is permafrost but it never materialized, we use pipe piles instead which had to be pre drilled before driving . Any experience wit screw piles in a permafrost location Canadian or US north
I am interested that you have chosen to install a kitchen sink on an exterior wall on the equivalent of a cantilever while living in Minnesota. I live in Missouri with a kitchen sink built into a 24" cantilever. I moved my water lines into the cabinet hoping room heat would protect them from freezing. The previous home owner had routed the water lines through the 2x4 stud wall. We have lived in this house for 35 winters and my water lines under this sink freeze several times each winter season. They most commonly freeze where routed through the floor joists in spite of several inches of rock wool insulation. Your prints didn't indicate any provision for better water line protection than I have. Your cantilever over unheated space exceeds my installation. Your winters are colder and longer than mine. What provision will you make to avoid my freezing problems in your home? I live with my problem since my water line freezes without rupturing and I built a new and much larger kitchen where freezing won't ever be experienced. The old kitchen sink is now used very infrequently. It is just sort of a relic utility sink and functions most often as counter storage space.
Waterlines will likely be routed inside the cabinets not in the walls but we’ll have 2x6 spray foamed walls. Floor will be heated with 9” of spray foam underneath
@@mcremona Good precautions. Part of my problem is existing construction that cannot easily allow adequate insulation UNDER the water lines in the cantilever floor. Running your water lines in the heated floor joist space and heat in the floor sounds prudent.
Good choice Matt! Sadly they were installed wrong. You don’t install a helical to a torque rating. The machine is actually showing how much pressure it’s taking to turn the screw. It’s not telling how much downward pressure the helical will withstand before sinking. If there is a hollow 2 feet under the helical then they will be back to re torque the pier. You install piers to refusal. That means that it has been driven down to a subsoil that it can’t pierce. Also I have never seen a pier that has a screw at the top. Generally a pre con pier is installed with a footer on top. What they installed was a 2 7/8” pier, but the deck is supported by 2 screws? Not ideal. Can a pier be removed and move? No! When that pier is removed you will notice the coating has scratched off. They are not made to be remove. The installer drilled out the 2 holes at the collar... guaranteed they will now rust. This proves that anyone can buy Chinese piers and call themselves a helical company.
Any idea what the weight limit is on the threads of the bracket? Seems like that's the weak link, if there is one. I had something similar to these installed on a part of my house that was sagging. Very easy install and it worked great.
Here in Canada we have to wrap the piles so as to avoid the adherence of ice and subsequent lifting of the pile (Adfreezing). This wrapping is often simply poly below ground level or a ready made sleeves. The risk that your piles heave is reduced by the fact that they are only exposed a few inches above ground. It could be critical if their was a downspout from the eavestroughs in the area, a lengthy steel pile exposed above ground, a wide pile with lots of room for cold air to flow…. In other words, anything we typically see in Canada that most Americans don’t have to worry about when they build.
@@cbryantbear6498 sure, but it feels safe assuming the posts didn’t dissolve on 30 years + a day. Siding, windows, roofs, every part of houses will need monitoring and maintenance. 30 years is plenty
#MapleBerryFarm #MBF is the first use of #ScrewPiles that I had seen. They are using them again on their most recent "cabin" build. Looks like a fantastic system! I did not know they can be cut and spliced on to. Nice! Happy Building, #MassiveMatt! 👍 Thanks for another great video! 👍
Speed is of the essence I understand, BUT if you would have made it in concrete, first it would have not been a hard place to keep warm in winter, and your basement would have a nice place to set a cold room, where you could have put your wine and be able to dry and keep all the italian sausages, salamis, prosciuttos.... you could have been making...lollll, 6 inches of polyurethane to block cold and humidity...PS: watch for critters palace.
![ILLSLICK - THE KING'S LANDING [Freestyle]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/feIJJnNkTfk/mqdefault.jpg)
Remember when this guy used to do wood working videos… that was cool.
Excellent choice. We used helical piles for our cabin footing 8 years ago. We had very wet soil conditions due to springs and the helicals were the perfect solution. Ours were driven 35ft into the ground to get into good solid ground. They also added piles diagonally on each corner to prevent lateral movement. They used a Bobcat for all of the work and clean-up consisted of raking out the yard. It worked great and has held up beautifully.
I wasn’t too sure about this when I saw the guys wearing sneakers (one without laces), but they worked well together and clearly knew what they were doing. Awesome that it didn’t require removing the deck or landscaping. $1,600 sounds like a heck of a deal to me.
Early on in my career as a civil engineer, I specified the use of helical piers to jack up houses that had significant settlement. They were a fairly new technology 25 years ago in our area, but they worked beautifully. Thank you for sharing your experience building your remodel.
For such a small gain in square footage and for such a small space, it’s ok to just pour an 8” slab and tie in to the other walls. You are a TH-cam star so I applaud your success Matt.
That wouldn’t be code compliant. You would have a conditioned space on a non frost protected portion of the foundation. That portion, even as small as it is, could move differently than the rest and start to separate from the house. Frost depth there is at 42” below grade, so any foundation would need to be below that to be compliant.
Yeah we decided that since it would make for an odd floor plan on the basement level, the time and cost to install a concrete foundation wasn’t worth it
@@mcremona Yeah, that's another consideration.
They'd make a nice solid base to put the sawmill on.
Never seen a system like that before. Very interesting. Definitely a time and back saver if budgeting allows. This series has been a total home run so far, and you haven't even gotten to the inside yet.
Thank you!!
Yep, I'm dying for more haha
I’ve also seen them used to support a concrete slab in bad soil. They drive the engineered number of these down to solid ground and tie them to the slab.
It's amazing how they can get under your deck like that with such low clearance. Most excellent.
and it's nice to see you can stand up strait underneath the deck and no one else was able too.... :lol
Very interesting !
She's going to love having her kitchen sink on the front of the house.
Cannot wait!!
It is going to look so good. Your such a worker.
I LOVE this series, I hope you continue this to show the work you do on the inside!
Oh yes; this is only the beginning
I saw those on a Mike Holmes show, used for support on a multiple layer, huge deck system…very cool
Hi Matt
today 11-18-21 I have discovered your channel ..
I love your dedication to wood and all the work you put into it.
I will start watching from your first video, to get to the present time ...
Thank you for sharing your daily life. !!!
Those are cool, where I worked on a beach they used a similar thing to make the footings for an entire restaurant on the sand, the ones they used looked like massive tapcons on steroids but the same basic idea, the whole thing was done in a few hours and they started throwing the building together, very cool tech.
For once, getting screwed isn't a bad thing! Great information, grade A video. Thanks for showing us that process and the complete explanation.
My son worked part time for an installer they put in a few on ranches for remote solar panels. One job they put them on an unstable hill side 35 ft down for a deck. Previous the home owner twice had massive concrete pilings poured that failed both times.
I'd never heard of this process. It makes a lot of sense. Thank you for this video.
Great reality TV.
Thanks for sharing your remodeling project with us.
This was fascinating. Loved the shot of the level in the driver’s control view. Thanks for sharing.
It's all about that bass! Yup, I caught it and you almost deadpanned it. Great work. Keep it up
Your explanations are concise with just the right amount of details.
Thanks!
What a great concept!
Thanks for sharing that system with us.
Cheers from Sydney Australia
🇭🇲👍🦘🐨🐨🦘👍🇭🇲🇺🇸
Love your enthusiasm for this project.
This is an awesome way to set footing, quick and solid! Yes they are expensive is the only downfall. In your application it was perfect.
Enjoyed seeing the floor plan. That put it all in perspective for me. Thanks. Great work.
Very interesting system, My house here in Victoria Australia has a rock shelf that covers most of my land, at 70 cm depth, had to pay extra to blast thru it in some places for pipe work, totally different to your sand, here you can not put a shovel into the ground any where with out hitting a rock.
I worked for a company, and helped put some of those in on the Cirrus Aircraft factory up in Duluth. They put an addition on between 15yrs and 20yrs ago. Had to cut a notch into the footings on the foundation of the main factory, and attach then to the footings. Wet saw into the concrete and rebar, kinda sucked in November, very cool system though.
great video. right to the point, good frank weighing of pros/cons/considerations, and I appreciated the description from the gentleman doing the install.
Great job on the video Matt. If you keep this up, I just might have to make some Braciole and send some up to you to enjoy! My mom's recipe. Let's hear it for Italian moms!
Thanks for sharing with us Matthew, looking good around there. Fred 🙏🏻🙏🏻👍🏻👍🏻👏🏻👏🏻✋🏻✋🏻
The strength of the footings are helpful. Thanks for sharing.
Interesting way to solve the foundation issue. Looks very practical.
Nice job Matt loving this build series!
Great video series, really enjoy watching the progress. Thanks.
Smart use of space.
Very cool system Matt.. certainly the best choice for that location and soil type..
Nice tricky location for the crew as well.. they seemed to handle it with zero sweat..
cheers :)
Matt, I think somebody screwed up and really put the screws to you! Haha
Thanks for showing us that technology! The fact that they could put them in with such a low overhang was amazing!
Hahahaha thanks mac!
Guess I'm too cheap to appreciate this one. Must of taken some convincing for Lindsey to get on board too? Keep the project videos coming I'm enjoying the progress.
I saw those screw piles on Home Reno vision DIY channel. Very cool. I wonder if there might also be some environmental benefit from not pouring yards of concrete for footings.
This is a VERY interesting series of builds! Thank you.
The helical people in my area generally spec $400-800 per pier for standard deck piers. Totally worth it compared to mixing concrete.
I’ve interfaced with Goliath tech in the past. Their product is good and the company is great.
Love the progress. Enjoy your story.
Thanks for sending me the link on this. Now to see if they do this up here in BC:)
From Wikipedia Alexander Mitchell invented the screwpile, he patented his wrought-iron screwpile design in England in 1833. It was used extensively for lighthouses on Chesapeake Bay. I first heard of this at the Chesapeake Bay Maritime Museum.
Nice to see it’s still in use.
Wow - didn’t realize it was such an old idea. Very cool!
Very interesting for sure.. Thanks for sharing..
So let see... If new addition settles, it can now be adjusted upwards in a few turns of a screw..
If old house settles you can take new addition with it in the same manner..
I had 8 Helical piers put under and around a corner of my foundation that was settling a few years back. Two were screwed down more that 45 feet before the torque was high enough. I live along a river basin in the piedmont of NC and the soil here is quite loose. The company that did it had to come back a couple times to re-do the torque after we a had a little additional settling occur. They have a lifetime warranty on the piers. They also used a small excavator with a hydraulic motor to screw them in. Here's a video of them doing some re-torqueing. th-cam.com/video/ragvcCLOkSo/w-d-xo.html
WOW ANOTHER NEW CONSTRUCTION METHOD…THANKS FOR THE INFO 😊
Beautiful autumn color on trees in the background
Good luck from a 36C Lobatse Botswana
Another reason to use piles is they drop the elevation of the bearing pressure down near the tip of the pile so if you are trying to install a footing next to a retaining wall (which appears to be the case on your house) you can avoid surcharging the wall.
Helical screw piles, very painful. Got it on safari in Africa.
I hear Ivermectin will clear it right up.
I love the fact, that the machine records the torque applied to each screw. That's hard data, unlike the classic concrete footings. Yes, footings have been around for many years, and yes, it's possible to calculate how large, how deep and whatnot, you must go, to meet the engineering spec. But, really, there's still guesswork for traditional footings, with respect to what is actually down there in the soil. The solution is to over-engineer the footing, to compensate for the unknown. You just hope you overcompensated enough.... with the screw footings, you eliminate the guesswork entirely.
My question is, do they also have stainless steel options, for when the soil is very acidic or alkaline? Sure, it'd cost more, but that would be offset by certain longevity with using stainless. Of course, stainless is not as strong, so you'd need heavier tubing and bolts.
That's pretty wild how they can do that without removing the deck.
Thanks for this videos on your house additions.. i have been following for quite while and enjoy your style. I am interested in seeing this particular video because I am interested in helical piers for quite a while.
I appreciate this guy working in sweatpants and tennis shoes. That's how I roll
And, no shoelaces...
Just can’t quite get there
Thanks for sharing this new method to me.
Pretty slick installation.
That was really cool. Thanks for sharing Matt!
Good job guys
Sounds like a really good idea I’m gonna build a probably a 14 x 24 small house to live in while I’m building a 35 x 80 garage and 1700 ft.² on a full basement while I’m building all of that and this would be an excellent choice depends on costs
Fabulous technology
I am amazed you got that much load capacity in sand. How deep does the sand go around your area? BTW GREAT VIDEO.
The only data I have is from our well installation report. Sand all the way down to at least 150’ where they hit water
@@mcremona wow. I had a farm in northwest Ohio. I had a pond dug and by the time they got down 18" there was clay and I was told that clay would hold water. It did. Bedrock is about 10' down in that area.
so we were going to use this in manitoba cause we have very poor soils for foundations this was in 1994 so there still wasnt alot of operators to do the job
All up and down the Chesapeake Bay the lighthouses are supported by screw piles, and, of course, are referred to as the Screw-pile Lighthouses.
See the Wikipedia article: en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Screw-pile_lighthouse
Interesting...first used for a lighthouse on the Thames (in England) in the 1830s--so screw-piles are a proven technology.
Let's dig a foundation!! Ahh, Screw it. -- Matt Cremona, 2021.
That seems like a quick and easy install for the post. You could probably make a DIY system for a tractor or excavator.
They make smaller screws that are 'DIY" using an auger attachment or by hand. You then load test them dynamically with a sledge and measurement.
@@billparco8072 I was thinking of post for a pole barn .
That is a sweet system. The single bolt seemed a little small from the video. How big was the adjusting bolt in the top?
3/4”
Curious why the posts and helicals were even needed... ~16ft beam clear span supporting that size addition should have been pretty simple. It would have added load to the existing walls but maybe there's something I am missing.
At 1:43, you can see that the ends of the beam are cantilevered past the posts (i.e., not attached to the house). Why that is though, you'd have to ask the engineer.
@@GlennFrazeeYT I noticed that as well and that got my attention as a structural engineer (career not just on the internet).
Easier install for us im guessing was the motivation. The load is carried with a pair of 9.5” lvls.
Really interesting ! Your existing deck structure will be sufficient to build on, or you have to replace it?
We removed the section of deck where the addition went
They use screw piles on a lot of large commercial construction sights. If a building is not very tall but will create a lot of weight installing screw piles is the most economical way to bolster the foundations carrying weight. They can also be installed where very heavy equipment is going to be placed on a slab without digging out and pouring a really thick concrete slab.
That’s a really cool application
@@mcremona
Another useful application was made by someone I know. After installing the helical piers at around the foundation of a slab-on-grade pour, a plate was welded to the top of the helical pier and the reinforcement bars were laid across and welded to that plate. At the location where the electrical service was going to be installed and a couple other places, a piece of reinforcement bar was bent up so it would stick out of the concrete. He was then able to attach the house ground circuit to the piece of reinforcement bar to create an earth ground. So, instead of just one bar driven into the ground outside the building, every inch of reinforcement bar in the foundation and the couple dozen helical piers they were attached to all became the earth ground for the building.
love those mini excavators
Very cool! Ready for you to open the firehose of content…thx
just did these on Westside of Minnapolis, for a new deck work great as long as to don't hit a rock. that is so big you can't drill around it and have to move a footing Did 3 footings for $1000
Matt we were looking at using screw pile for pipe supports in the NWT where there is permafrost but it never materialized, we use pipe piles instead which had to be pre drilled before driving . Any experience wit screw piles in a permafrost location Canadian or US north
I am interested that you have chosen to install a kitchen sink on an exterior wall on the equivalent of a cantilever while living in Minnesota. I live in Missouri with a kitchen sink built into a 24" cantilever. I moved my water lines into the cabinet hoping room heat would protect them from freezing. The previous home owner had routed the water lines through the 2x4 stud wall. We have lived in this house for 35 winters and my water lines under this sink freeze several times each winter season. They most commonly freeze where routed through the floor joists in spite of several inches of rock wool insulation. Your prints didn't indicate any provision for better water line protection than I have. Your cantilever over unheated space exceeds my installation. Your winters are colder and longer than mine. What provision will you make to avoid my freezing problems in your home?
I live with my problem since my water line freezes without rupturing and I built a new and much larger kitchen where freezing won't ever be experienced. The old kitchen sink is now used very infrequently. It is just sort of a relic utility sink and functions most often as counter storage space.
Waterlines will likely be routed inside the cabinets not in the walls but we’ll have 2x6 spray foamed walls. Floor will be heated with 9” of spray foam underneath
@@mcremona Good precautions. Part of my problem is existing construction that cannot easily allow adequate insulation UNDER the water lines in the cantilever floor. Running your water lines in the heated floor joist space and heat in the floor sounds prudent.
Have you considered a temperature controlled ceramic bulb for that area so the lines do not freeze?
great video
Good choice Matt! Sadly they were installed wrong. You don’t install a helical to a torque rating. The machine is actually showing how much pressure it’s taking to turn the screw. It’s not telling how much downward pressure the helical will withstand before sinking. If there is a hollow 2 feet under the helical then they will be back to re torque the pier. You install piers to refusal. That means that it has been driven down to a subsoil that it can’t pierce. Also I have never seen a pier that has a screw at the top. Generally a pre con pier is installed with a footer on top. What they installed was a 2 7/8” pier, but the deck is supported by 2 screws? Not ideal. Can a pier be removed and move? No! When that pier is removed you will notice the coating has scratched off. They are not made to be remove. The installer drilled out the 2 holes at the collar... guaranteed they will now rust. This proves that anyone can buy Chinese piers and call themselves a helical company.
Did you cut those piers yourself?
How far down did you have to go down in that sand to get the torque you needed on the piles?
7’
It's all about the base? No treble?
That's A Beautiful House Matt. It's Gonna Be More Amazing After The Additions
Thanks!
Good info. Thanks!
Wow. New to me.
One more step completed
Thanks
Could it be used to use groundwater, for irrigation of gardens.
I'm surprised they didn't go further out for the kitchen add-on. 3 ft doesn't seem like a lot for an add-on
Makes the most sense for continuity with the existing exterior
Fascinating, did you run into any problems with the code compliance enforcers in your area.
No, the building plans were approved without issue
All ‘bout the bass … too funny !
Pretty cool!
What's the cost compared to concrete.
Interesting concept but will not likely work in Muskoka where bedrock is 2 inches below grade.
If you have bedrock, you don't need piles.
@@firesurfer True but the bedrock is never level.
@@peggyt1243 So what? Drill until it is, or build up on top of it.
Super this super that
Nice!!!
Any idea what the weight limit is on the threads of the bracket? Seems like that's the weak link, if there is one. I had something similar to these installed on a part of my house that was sagging. Very easy install and it worked great.
Looks like about 3/4" thread, so about 25k pounds vertical.
Yes; 3/4. Will exceed the rated bearing strength of the footing
Here in Canada we have to wrap the piles so as to avoid the adherence of ice and subsequent lifting of the pile (Adfreezing). This wrapping is often simply poly below ground level or a ready made sleeves.
The risk that your piles heave is reduced by the fact that they are only exposed a few inches above ground. It could be critical if their was a downspout from the eavestroughs in the area, a lengthy steel pile exposed above ground, a wide pile with lots of room for cold air to flow…. In other words, anything we typically see in Canada that most Americans don’t have to worry about when they build.
Silly question. What is the longevity of the “screw pillions?” Is corrosion over time an issue?
The installer mentioned testing for 30 years
@@zachwolf5122 yes but building last longer than 30 years….
@@cbryantbear6498 sure, but it feels safe assuming the posts didn’t dissolve on 30 years + a day. Siding, windows, roofs, every part of houses will need monitoring and maintenance. 30 years is plenty
1:56
I probably missed when you've mentioned it: How deep are those screw piles being driven again ?
Thank You.
They go as deep as needed to achieve the bearing strength required. We ended up at 7’
Thanks !!!
Interesting
#MapleBerryFarm #MBF is the first use of #ScrewPiles that I had seen. They are using them again on their most recent "cabin" build. Looks like a fantastic system! I did not know they can be cut and spliced on to. Nice! Happy Building, #MassiveMatt! 👍 Thanks for another great video! 👍
Speed is of the essence I understand, BUT if you would have made it in concrete, first it would have not been a hard place to keep warm in winter, and your basement would have a nice place to set a cold room, where you could have put your wine and be able to dry and keep all the italian sausages, salamis, prosciuttos.... you could have been making...lollll, 6 inches of polyurethane to block cold and humidity...PS: watch for critters palace.