How to Mount a Scope on a Picatinny Rail
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 15 พ.ย. 2024
- Mounting a Vortex Viper PST 6-24x50 First Focal Plane (FFP) MOA scope on 30mm Vortex Precision Matched Riflescope Rings. Mounting onto a Savage .308 Win FLCP-K (left handed FCP-K) Precision Rifle with a Warne 20 MOA Picatinny Base.
Thanks for this guide. I just mounted an athlon 4x12x40 for my 15-22 with this guide
3:35 I think everyone was looking for this part. You fit it into the groove, and then push forward on it instead of backwards.
Good video! And you are so strong on the basics (except use the ring alignment bars while the ring tops are at least half torqued), but readers should understand that you probably did the vital leveling of both the rifle, and then the scope, off screen. To do the next important scope mounting step, use a decent bubble level bar, and first level the rifle itself in it's cleaning stand (or bipod and sandbag, etc.) by placing the level on the top of the already properly mounted lower scope rings, before the scope is sitting in them. Now level the rifle using the bubble level bar ...and don't let the rifle move once leveled. Then place the scope into the rings and LOOSELY screw on the ring tops, so that the scope can still be adjusted. Again, making sure that the RIFLE has not moved off level, now place the bubble level on the scope's (hopefully flat) target elevation knob. Twist the scope in the rings either clockwise or counter-clock wise as needed to level the scope. Very carefully torque down the ring screws, making sure that neither the rifle or scope has moved, or you will have to start over again. Perfect level is vital if you are shooting long range enough to have to use ANY bullet drop reticle system. You can see how important leveling is by simply aiming your now leveled rifle at any small target at 500+ yards using as your aiming point, a place on your vertical scope "hair" well below the cross hairs, near the bottom of your scope's viewing circle...(or use the lowest MOA or Mil-dot point on your BDC reticle). Now cant ((twist) the rifle "off target" just a couple of degrees left or right. That is how far off the target you would be at that 500+ range if your rifle scope is out of level by those same 2 or 3 degrees. Scope leveling is very important. :)
ive inly ever fired another's scoped rifle, can you zero the scope with 10 rounds and a consistent sight picture to make up for minor leveling mistakes?
Great Video. This helped me a ton. New to picatinny rails and I just mounted one on my marlin .22 - glad you confirmed I did it right. I do need to get a torque wrench, though. Next purchase... lol. Thanks!!
I installed this optic on a crossman 760 air rifle.I have now shot the riffle around 500 times during target/plinking practice, and the th-cam.com/users/postUgkxc4K63Fd5LglDMObu7-Bgapxp_ef0W8hE scope has done well.With this optic, I have neutralized around 30 pigeons that were invading one of my buildings.For my short range air rifle, I will continue to use this scope, but will be upgrading to a more powerful scope, when I buy a more powerful air rifle, in order to shoot at longer distance.For the money I have spent, this scope has truly been a great buy.
1 piece mounts have a very good side in that there are very low chances of the mount twisting the scope in any way.. That small difference affects the tightness the scope can be secured with and who knows what else.
when I'll by the scope I gonna look on this video again,thanks
Guys, all you need is a $1 level from any hardware store on this planet and you can level your scope without any guess work. Saves a lot of time and doesn't cost but one dollar.
That and a plumb bob..?
I have a Johnson Magnetic Pocket Level, as well as a Johnson Angle Finder. I cannot tell you how useful they are when leveling a scope. In the end, though a plumbob is my final thing to use before tightening the scope rings. Just passing along in case you also already have these on hand like I do from years of DIY projects around the house.
Level the reticle not the turret
Very informative video with excellent info.
Thank you.
The alignment bars should be installed with top half ring torqued down. That's the real alignment test.
These Rings are very nice, Seekins Precision makes them for Vortex and they make great parts. But if your going to use precision rings and get the tools to see if the rings line up, why not spend the extra $20 and make sure it's level
Because this guy is a moron
I hope this isn't a precision rifle or your going to have a lot of issues without properly leveling the scope.
The purpose of a scope is to make precise shots, don't understand why someone would just guess on the installation.
Without bubble level attached to the scope it is in vain anyways. It does not really matter if you angle it at 45 degrees, as long you always have it the same way facing to the center of the earth.
Also, many do not hold their rifle in perfect balance so the scope should optimally be leveled when the rifle is held in prone stance.
not really necessary to have the optic perfectly level because unless you hold the rifle perfectly level when you are shooting its going to slightly canted anyways
@@p1ngerssits important for the accuracy of your adjustments... the amount of stupid people here is amazing
Everybody online says to push your rings, optics or carry handle to the front of the 1913 slot before tightening it down. Actually the reverse is better due to rough handling and drops. Recoil itself seldom if ever moves the 1913 accessory however drops, bangs, rough handling and letting a bolt slam into battery on a semi-auto sure does all the time if you are not in the most rearward position of the slots.
Not true. You should be pushing them to the front. The rifle is going to be dealing with recoil from firing more than it is being dropped. If you drop your rifle that many times you have an issue.
@@HazardousRob
To the rear it will never move. To the front it can move the first time the butt is set down less than gentle. I have never had one move doing it my way. Unless you are firing magnum rifle calibers it's not going to move under recoil. Certainly not a 5.56. A .300 Win Mag might in some extreme cases.
@@JohnDoeEagle1 not gonna argue with ya anymore. Do what you want, but the correct way is to have them pushed forward. The lugs on the bottom of the rings are called recoil lugs for a reason.
@@HazardousRob
That is even BEFORE 1992 when the 1913 Pic rail was invented by the way...Slam! What are we "moving" prior to it being invented?
I know these things....I have been doing them for 41 years and counting!
Kiddo
@@HazardousRob
Don't get your info from the "internet" and a bunch of kids from guns shops is a word of advice!
th-cam.com/video/srrYlR8n1vI/w-d-xo.html
Be well!
Well done. Thanks.
why is everyone saying great video... i wanted to see how things are attached to the rail.. NOT Before & After shots.... like actually show you putting the attachments onto the gun...
what Loctite you using for fix screws to fix picatiny rail?
Blue. Locktite or permafix
@@bgallaher77 Merry Christmas Happy New Year
I think the only good way to level a scope is to take it outside, in shooting stance you prefer and attach string and make adjustments according to that. You do not hold your rifle in perfect balance on the field or in prone. After that is done, take the rifle on to the table and attach a bubble level there. You are done.
You do if you have a level attached to your scope lol
ok good sir so I have a question. I have the same rings on stand by (waiting for my Viper that's on backorder) and was curious how you determined which ring is meant for the front and the back?
bgallaher77
I'm thinking of putting the same set up on my left handed 308 savage. Did you have any trouble with the bolt touching or getting near to the reticle illumination knob?? They are both on the left hand side and I'm a little concerned about it. How much clearance is left when you pull the bolt back past the illumination knob? Is it enough to have your thumb over the top of the bolt as you pull it back? Any info you could provide would be very appreciated. Much thanks for the video!
Alexander Deane I just checked out the gun/scope combo. I would characterize the clearance as acceptable. You can hit your thumb if you work at it, but with a little practice you can develop a technique that makes working the bolt and avoiding the scope no problem.
bgallaher77
Thanks heaps for that! I'll go a head and get the scope in that case :) Appreciate all your help! Thanks again.
So I just bought an FLCP-K and I'm pretty glad I found this. I've never mounted a scope this way before. Are there "left handed" or "right handed" rails? Which did you use?
I just purchased Vortex viper HS 6-24x50 SFP some people complained that it is not usable past 18x magnification. how do you like yours? Also some said that this problem is more on FFP scopes. thanks
Viper 6.5-20x50 PA Riflescope w/ Mil Dot Ret. (MOA, 2nd Focal Plane)
what do you think about this scope ?
It all depends on what you want to do with the scope. It is a pain to have the ranging system (Mil dot) differ from the turrets adjustments (MOA). Additionally, the second focal plane (almost all scopes are second focal plane) means that the mil dot reticle can only be used at the maximum magnification, and at 20x you have to keep the rifle steady to be able to do that. However, this is exactly what almost all the scopes on the market do (Leupold Mark AR is one exception). With all that being said, the magnification range is more than adequate for shooting out to 1000 yards and beyond so long as you have a good rest so that you can keep the rifle steady. This would be a large scope, so target/varmint shooting, as opposed to big game hunting (my opinion), would be what this scope is geared to. Vortex has a lifetime warrantee, which is always a good thing.
In my opinion mil/moa scopes are trash. It is like trying to talk while changing language every other word. Even (100, 200) distances are doable but when you need to convert in between it is a nightmare. I bought Athlon scope with mil/mil and it felt awesome to know by hand what to dial. In few years probably every manufacturer is going to make scopes in full mil or moa. Now they are just lagging behind.
curious if these rings will get me high enough on a savage axis with a similar base, warne 20moa picatinny same scope, think it'll come out similar to your setup? looks great
What kind of gun vise is that ?
MTM case guard, but it is a cradle rather than a vice. Tipton makes a few models as well.
@@bgallaher77 thanks so much. I believe it's exactly like one I had in my younger years. Going to see if I can get my hands on another one.
What kind of gun is that?
Savage Model 10
@@bgallaher77 how much for it I’ll buy it right now
what model is ur warne 20 moa base...
Jon Mohr --Could someone please answer this gentleman's question?
@@caseyjoanz no
@@caseyjoanz no
too many repetitive proc. talk but ur illustration is fine.
Noob here. When mounting the rings, you pressed forward on the rear ring. You stated so that it could ride back on recoil. Ride back to me means movement. Wouldn't you want to press the rear ring back and the front one forward so that when you mount the scope, there's no give ie, no movement and therefore, no loss of zero? I'm installing rings for the first time and want to understand your thought process fully.
When the rifle is recoiling the rings and scope will be naturally pushed against the front of the rail. I understand what you were getting at but if the rear ring was pushed backwards rather than forward it allows room for the ring to shift forward during recoil.
RWRiverRat My thoughts exactly. You want the rings pushed forward so they are seated against the the rail, and can move with the rifle during recoil. A gap between the rail and rings (in the cross slot) might allow for some movement during recoil.
It doesn't look level 🍀
Front ring should have been a notch further back. You did not lap the rings, so they may not have 80% of surface holding the scope.
The alignment bars should be installed with top half ring torqued down. Mounting a scope without proper leveling just aint good enough.
Leaving the bottom half of the ring loose .position and level the scope to suit you .Install the top of rings alternating back and forth to proper torque.The LAST thing you do is snug up and torque the rings to the base ! Try it you'll like it !!
@@raymondmccomas3435you dont position the scope to "suit you". The crosshairs should be perfectly leveled to the action.
With all the stuff for putting your scope on Y not spent 15$ to bye a bubble level lol
Would a cheap bubble level be more accurate? Or would a cheap bubble level be cheaply made and give you bad data? Would it be precise? If you have a level you need to find two planes that are parallel on the gun and scope. On this gun the picatinny rail should suffice. Lots of rifles do not have a flat spot on the receiver. Not sure the scope has a level spot. Most scope caps are not flat or have something on them that makes a level difficult to use. Then you have to level the gun and without moving the gun level the scope and tighten the rings, while keeping everything level. So, yeah, if the rifle had a flat spot, and you had a way to clamp the gun after it was level, and the scope had a flat spot, and the level was of sufficient quality and sensitivity (you have to be able to read small changes), then a level would work. With a cheap level and a rifle rested on sandbags or in a cradle, I do not think it would be more precise. No chance of working with many scopes or rifles given there is no place to rest the level.
No no no. You did it all wrong. if done correctly it will say Zeiss or Swarovski on the scope at the end :)
Vortex scopes are trash leupold or swarovski I have owned them all