An index for this video: 0:00 - 1:05 Listing the loose parts that came with the clock. 1:05 - 3:28 Removing hands, dial, and movement from the case. Finding a bolt where a screw should be. 3:28 - 4:54 Examining the movement for damage. Prick punches. 4:54 - 5:41 Identifying the movement (Ingraham) and its age (newer than 1879). Dial not original. 5:41 - 6:05 First cleaning, before disassembly. Seeing the ultrasonic cleaner. 6:05 - 7:40 Letting down the mainsprings, starting disassembly. 7:40 - 9:39 Worn trundles on the escape wheel and the fan. Worn pallets. 9:39 - 11:59 Messy solder on the end of two lantern pinions. Finished disassembly. 11:59 - 14:50 Removing the mainsprings from their clamps, using an Ollie Baker Style spring winder. 14:50 - 15:26 Quick review of the sorted, disassembled parts. 15:26 - 17:23 Straightening a bent arbor, using a lathe and hammer. 17:23 - 18:22 The two wheels after scraping the solder off with the lathe. 18:22 - 31:09 Removing and replacing worn trundles from two lantern pinions. 31:09 - 32:15 Polishing all the pivots. 32:15 - 34:11 Checking for worn pivot holes. Bushing those holes. (Brief) 34:11 - 38:13 Broaching the new bushings to fit the pivots. 38:13 - 39:42 Testing the new bushings. Marking other bushings to replace. 39:42 - 46:54 Bushing in detail: marking, filing (drilling) the unworn side, reaming, chamfering, riveting, broaching. 46:54 - 49:28 Testing the strike train pivot holes. 49:28 - 58:18 Bushing the strike side. 58:18 - 58:58 Making a bushing on the lathe. 58:58 - 1:01:03 Bushing the hour pipe. 1:01:03 - 1:03:32 Lubricating the mainsprings. 1:03:32 - 1:07:59 Clamping the mainsprings. 1:07:59 - 1:08:45 Pegging out the pivot holes. 1:08:45 - 1:12:55 Reassembling the movement. 1:12:55 - 1:13:59 Checking that the strike train locks properly. 1:13:59 - 1:14:45 Describing the anchor problems. 1:14:45 - 1:15:19 Test running. 1:15:19 - 1:17:12 Restoring the dial. 1:17:12 - 1:17:49 Examining the dirty alarm. 1:17:49 - 1:18:39 Letting down the alarm's spring, using a zip-tie. 1:18:39 - 1:19:24 Disassembling the alarm. 1:19:24 - 1:21:08 Reassembling the cleaned alarm. 1:21:08 - 1:24:06 Burnishing a new pattern onto the new door glass. 1:24:06 - 1:24:31 Reassembling the door. 1:24:31 - 1:25:14 The movement in the case, then the fully assembled clock.
Its not often that one has the pleasure of watching a true craftsman, such as yourself. Great job on bringing that jewel back to life, and preserving a precious heirloom.
Thank you so much for sharing this video you are a true craftsman it was a pleasure to watch you giving the clock a new lease of life it looked beautiful thank you once again.
Hello Mr. Perry, I am so happy you used that mainspring winder. I have been given one when I decided to go into clock repair instead of watch repair. I haven't had to use it yet, but I wondered exactly how it worked. Thanks again for making these video's. They were instrumental in helping me to choose clock repair when I re-opened the shop after my wife passed away. All the best, Sean
Hi Perry, nice video. One time i feel you are the finder of this clock. Just compliment. Most important your satisfaction to work yourself and the message is that senior people never retire. God bless you perry, wish your good health.
I love Mr. Perry's videos, I've been playing around with clocks for about twenty years, fixing some that I like. His videos are some of the best I've watched. Cover a lot of detail.
Some people pull the brass shroud to replace the trundles, but then one has to align all the new trundles to put the shroud back in place and it is also sometimes a pain to get the shroud tight again. That's why you find solder, glue and mangled parts on some clocks.
Mr.Perry, I just did a movement just like this except it had a bell for the 1/2 hour strike. My first movement I bought a non working Ingrahm mantle clock for 25.00 ..took it apart..cleaned and polished the pivots..I dont have a lathe so I used my dremel on the slowest speed and I polished the pivots with some polishing compound. cleaned all the parts..cleaned all the plates and used wood tooth pics to clean all the bushings.. it took me 3 attempts but I got it back together and as soon as I released the main spring..It came to life.. I oiled it and put it on test and it runs fantastically.. I have to get some 2 1/2 inch Maltese hands from Perrins and I will refinish the case..
Congratulations on the repair. Satisfying, isn't it? I've always found a great deal of pleasure in seeing a clock running again after what may have been decades since it last made a sound. Knowing that a clock has been saved from the landfill for at least another generation is really gratifying. I just looked at your channel and it looks like you're quite a collector. I take it you are in Canada if you order from Perrin. If you don't find what you need there, don't overlook Timesavers. They ship internationally and have an enormous inventory. timesavers.com/
@@dperry428 you like my gilbert 3022? I had a clockmaker rebuild this movement.. he said to me..Wow you seem to know a lot about clocks.. so I am going to work for him this winter when he gets busy.. he has everything.. lathe.. all the broaching tools remers.. staking tools.. I bought an adamanteen seth thomas mantle clock as well.. it had not run in 50 years.. I took it home and did a quick "cowboy" clean with alcohol..threw a little oil on it and off she went. The second wheel on the chime side bushing is so worn it is a fill pivot width to the left and the strike train won't even run. I jammed a wedge of hardwood toothpick in the gap and the strike side started working.. I have to Bush this pivot and actually all the others look fine on initial inspection. Thanks for your channel.. it certainly inspired me to do this
The old rectangular regulators are one of my favorites. I especially like the ones with the advertising on the glass. Best wishes with the continuing work with clocks. When things get rough in the world, they provide a way to really shut out the craziness and lose yourself in fixing them. Good luck.
Very good video, Thank you, I'm about to restore my 1870s steeple clock movement, it needs 1 bushing so far found, new set of mainsprings, suspention spring, hour hand and ill go from there, it also has an alarm movement, I just got a spring for that so I'm gonna clean that up and get it prepared, I'm excited to see my favorite clock running again
Great video. Beautiful work. I think this is the movement from a clock I found at an estate sale, already dismantled. Just gathering information at this point. My movement is in much better condition. Just oxidized and filthy. Beat off, etc. Yours came out so bright. I’m sure you used a pro product. Looks great.
www.esslinger.com/zenith-watch-and-clock-cleaning-solution-concentrate-251na-1-gallon/ This stuff is diluted 1 part to 7 parts water, so it makes 8 gallons.
Hello Mr. Perry, excelent video! I'm writing from Chile and have the same clock, but I've some doubts about its functioning: I'd like to know how to regulate the clock's mechanism because it sums a minute every day , for example, if I set it right one day, the next day at 12 o'clock it hits 12:01, and the next day 12:02, ... . Another question is how to make the alarm work. Thank you very much.
The small nut at the bottom of the pendulum is used to regulate the timekeeping. To make the clock run slower, make the pendulum longer by turning the nut to the left, and to make it run faster, turn the nut to the right. For a minute a day, a turn of about half-a-turn should be close. The alarm mechanism is wound and then the center brass dial in the middle of the clock dial sets the time for the alarm to be released. Put the number on the brass dial of the number of the hour when you want to the alarm to sound under the hour hand. It will sound at some time during that hour. It's not really accurate. You're lucky if it sets the alarm off within 15 minutes or so. The alarm will continue to sound until it runs down. There is no shutoff.
What a great vid! I have a clock with the same markings on the brass. Same yrs etc. Its an E. Ingraham kitchen clock also. I traded some antiques for it and it acts like its wound right up and was working for 3/4 of a day and would stop. I took the face off and tried adjusting the catch wire I think u called it for the pendulum and now it wont catch and release it at all.. not sure what I did.. first timer here. I dont know where you live but would be great if you were close! I find the video relaxing and I now have a new list of tools I need to get into this. My grandfather's clocks were all sold at auction when he passed, so I'm trying to collect the same ones and make them function like he did. Thanks in advance for any advice you may have
!. Clean and oil the clock 2. If it does not run then, it likely is worn and needs bushings replaced. I can't tell from your description what you did, so I can't advise as to what to do. 3. Watch all my clock videos and see if you find your answer. At least, it will give you some information to start inn the hobby.
DP I had never seen an ultrasonic cleaner before, thanks for including that little tidbit in the video. Now where's the popcorn for the rest of the video :-)
This is the one that Marcia's cousin gave me. It sure saves a lot of time and mess doing the cleaning. This clock had the most wear I've seen in a clock. These are usually the movements that end up on eBay as "parts" movements. I'm glad I got to save it from such a fate. It should last many years, now. I don't know how to make videos shorter and still show the work that goes into the repair. I have lots of microwave popcorn.
timesavers.com/i-22336012-zenith-watch-clock-cleaning-concentrate-251na.html You can also make a good cleaner out of dishwashing soap and Murphy's Oil Soap.
Hello. Acquired a Vienna regulator clock. Gave it a quick dunk and swish Clean to get some of the dirt off, I know it’s not ideal but just starting on the bigger movements so don’t have the tool to remove the springs yet. Anyway it worked fine before but now when I wind the time side it loses tension and uncoils a bit. Any idea what’s caused this ? . Ok so I just realized I probably made a stupid mistake dunking the movement. I actually did two. One with the barrel and one that doesn’t. Obviously moisture will be trapped between the springs and can cause damage if left. Do I have any options other than taking the springs out and lubricating them properly? One pair are brass and other are steel. What a stupid mistake
If you didn't want to remove the springs from the barrels, you could have disassembled the movement and cleaned everything but the spring barrels. My opinion is that you have no choice but to remove the springs, properly clean and lubricate them and replace them in the barrels or in the movement. You'll simply have to deal with removing springs the old-fashioned way as I did for more than 40 years. Watch this video for those in a barrel: th-cam.com/video/B7UTN81G4nM/w-d-xo.html For springs that are open (not in barrels), you can start by winding the spring, capturing it with a spring clamp or wiring it. After disassembling the movement, put the main wheel with the spring back between the plates, wire the main wheel through a spoke to the plate. Then, it can be wound, the clamp or wire removed and the spring let completely down. To reinstall, just wind it back up, reclamp or wire the spring and let it down against the clamp or wire. Unwire the wheel from the plate and you're ready to go.
@@dperry428 thanks. I was just watching your other video on barrels, you had the towel the gloves and took no chances. Appreciate the reply. I’ll do my research and give cleaning the springs a go. All the best
To remove the barrel cap, I don't pry it off as he did, but just grasp the barrel and smack the short end of the winding arbor on a piece of wood. That knocks the barrel cap out without distorting it. Also, he seems to have a hard time getting the first coils out. Be careful about pulling on the spring too much as it is slowly unwound. It is relatively easy to cause the spring to end up cone-shaped instead of in a flat plane. If it ends up a cone, it is virtually useless as it will now rub on the inside of the barrel cover and lose significant power. It's best to have a spring winder, but it is hard to justify spending $250 unless you're going to do a lot of this. That's why I didn't get one for many years. Now, I'm old enough to not have enough hand strength to do it the old way.
@@dperry428 yes I see the winder is the way to go but I can’t justify buying one for one movement, but I do enjoy it so possibly down the line. Like you mentioned I’ll gather the pieces as I go. But for this instance I’ll just use lots of protective gear. I’ll let you know how it goes. All the best
Great video thank you sir. Wish I could have seen you drill those holes and make the bushings. Hopefully I can find a video of that. Assuming you made those bushings, is that correct? I spoke too soon immediately after you showed the one plate bushed. Thank you sir for such a great job
@@dperry428 may I ask what kind of brass stock do you use for bushings? You make it look so easy.. I've got an very old clock with a lot of wear and I want to attempt this. Thank you sir
I'm not a metallurgist nor a machinist, so I'm not well versed on types and hardness of brass. My sources vary with the brass I need. For example, I ordered hexagonal brass from a jobber and the round stock I order from clock supply houses. It's all easy machining stuff, but I don't remember the numbers.
I apologize if this is a redundant question. What did you use to repair the hole in the back of the case? I have found that regular wood putty is not strong enough. I hope you are enjoying your summer and look forward to you getting back to clock repair in the fall and winter. Thanks
I don't remember for this specific case, but there are two methods I use to repair holes. If it's a relatively large hole, I drill out the hole to clean up the sides of the hole, glue in a piece of wooden dowel and redrill the screw hole. If it's relatively small and I just need to make a smaller hole for the screw, I use the baking soda/super glue method. Put a piece of masking tape on one side of the hole, put a small amount of baking soda in the hole, add a drop of super glue, then more baking soda followed by super glue until the hole is filled. It hardens instantly, becoming much like a synthetic hard plastic that can then be drilled for the screw. It adheres far better than any wood filler and is much, much stronger. You can Google "baking soda and super glue" to see how well it works.
Thanks for the very quick reply. It is the baking soda/super glue method I hadn't heard of until your videos. I will use it the next time I have to repair a small hole. Do you paint the patch so that it blends in or just leave well enough alone? BTW, your granddaughter steals the show when you put her on camera. :-) Please continue posting new clock repair videos.
Generally, there is no reason to color the baking soda/super glue as it is small, hidden under the movement and, perhaps on the back of the clock. It's nicer, I think to color the dowel piece when used, as it's usually larger. I like to use acrylics to color as I can match the surrounding color. I keep a set of artist's acrylics to color repairs, such as filled and repaired cracks, dial touchups and antiquing repaired dials.
Thanks for the information. I really appreciate your videos and quick response to questions. The longer videos are great. I know you're going to get into the detail that's needed. I just watch it in segments.
www.xrestore.com/Pages/WoodScrewHoles.htm discusses the pros and cons of various screw hole repair methods. Near the end of the page he describes using a plug cutter to make a plug that matches the original wood.
Glad to see your winter clock project. I have watched and enjoyed your "rock" videos. I am building a garden rail road and will be using your methods for all of the rock work come this spring. I have most of my supplies that I received from Fishstone. Do you have email and would you mind being reached for questions? If not I understand. Thanks for your videos and keep up the good work.
I have set my comment section to "hold for review". If you put your email address in a new comment, I can copy it and delete your comment so you email is not publicly visible.
I have recently overhauled a case on a Dutch Staarklok (tail clock) but I’d like to get some information on the movement. Do you know if there is any literature available for these clocks? Thanks
I have no personal knowledge of them, but you might like to visit the National Association of Watch and Clock Collectors (NAWCC) message board and read the various threads there. mb.nawcc.org/search/12040516/?q=staartklok&o=relevance
Hello Sir! I like Your video, I have some question, How much money do I need to invest on tools to start fixing clocks? And where can I buy the materials to make the bushings, pivots etc? Thanks in advance!
How much money your need is a matter of what tools you have already, the level of you skills and the extent of the repairs you want to do. You can start fixing clocks with ordinary materials and tools most people already have for other household tasks --- screwdrivers, pliers, wire, soap and water. Don't expect to completely overhaul a badly worn clock from the beginning. There are ways to do some tasks using simple tools and techniques, but they are sometimes not the safest nor the most reliable. For example, one can replace a worn arbor pivot using an electric drill in a vice and a hand-held pin vice which constitutes an improvised crude lathe, but a small lathe does the job in a safer and more reliable manner. You can clean a clock movement with a bowl, toothbrush and soapy water, as I did for nearly 50 years, but clock cleaning solution and an ultrasonic cleaner are much more efficient -- also much more expensive. Sources I use for supplies: timesavers.com/ ronellclock.com/ merritts.com/ butterworthclocks.com/ frankenmuthclock.com/ milehiclocksupplies.com/ blackforestimports.com/ www.ofrei.com/ClockPartsAndSupplies.html perrinwatchparts.com/collections/clock-parts (Canada) There are many more. Also, search on Amazon for tools and supplies.
No, but I'd suggest reading some of these threads on the NAWCC forum and see if you might find what you are looking for. mb.nawcc.org/search/4848564/?q=ingraham+pacific+series&o=relevance
Yes, I finally got it cleaned up on the lathe. They should never use solder, either. If they took off the lantern pinion shroud to replace the trundles, it should have been replace by either knurling the arbor or closing the hole in the shroud to make a tight friction fit. Solder is never an alternative to a proper repair.
Too many variables for me to give a definitive answer. There are many variations of chime and strike mechanisms from one clock model to another. It can be a bent or broken pin on a warning wheel, it can be a bent, worn or broken lever within the chime or strike mechanism, or it can be an improperly reassembled mechanism where the gears and levers are not in their proper positions. You need to understand how the mechanism functions first and, then, carefully watch to see what is not working as designed. I can't really help beyond that general advice.
@@dperry428 I opened it and wash the machine and then i joint properly everything and then what happened i don't know before i opened it was working properly
Don't understand. At stop, the warning pin should be near the top close to the top of the plates, resting against a stop lever. Near the hour (or half-hour) that stop lever should lift, releasing the pin and the wheel should rotate about half-a-turn and be stopped by another lever (both part of the same lever). At the hour or half-hour, that second lever drops and releases the warning pin and the clock strikes until the topmost lever is allowed to drop again to stop the warning pin and wheel.
When you say "opened it", do you mean you separated the plates, did the cleaning, put the gears back in and put the plates together again? If so, you likely did not put the gears back in the proper orientations to one another. Again, without examining the movement, I cannot determine the problem.
Dear Don, your videos are very instructive. I have a similiar old clock and would like to be able to contact you directly however I don't use FB. Can you set your comments to hold for review and I can send you my email address? thank you.
An index for this video:
0:00 - 1:05 Listing the loose parts that came with the clock.
1:05 - 3:28 Removing hands, dial, and movement from the case. Finding a bolt where a screw should be.
3:28 - 4:54 Examining the movement for damage. Prick punches.
4:54 - 5:41 Identifying the movement (Ingraham) and its age (newer than 1879). Dial not original.
5:41 - 6:05 First cleaning, before disassembly. Seeing the ultrasonic cleaner.
6:05 - 7:40 Letting down the mainsprings, starting disassembly.
7:40 - 9:39 Worn trundles on the escape wheel and the fan. Worn pallets.
9:39 - 11:59 Messy solder on the end of two lantern pinions. Finished disassembly.
11:59 - 14:50 Removing the mainsprings from their clamps, using an Ollie Baker Style spring winder.
14:50 - 15:26 Quick review of the sorted, disassembled parts.
15:26 - 17:23 Straightening a bent arbor, using a lathe and hammer.
17:23 - 18:22 The two wheels after scraping the solder off with the lathe.
18:22 - 31:09 Removing and replacing worn trundles from two lantern pinions.
31:09 - 32:15 Polishing all the pivots.
32:15 - 34:11 Checking for worn pivot holes. Bushing those holes. (Brief)
34:11 - 38:13 Broaching the new bushings to fit the pivots.
38:13 - 39:42 Testing the new bushings. Marking other bushings to replace.
39:42 - 46:54 Bushing in detail: marking, filing (drilling) the unworn side, reaming, chamfering, riveting, broaching.
46:54 - 49:28 Testing the strike train pivot holes.
49:28 - 58:18 Bushing the strike side.
58:18 - 58:58 Making a bushing on the lathe.
58:58 - 1:01:03 Bushing the hour pipe.
1:01:03 - 1:03:32 Lubricating the mainsprings.
1:03:32 - 1:07:59 Clamping the mainsprings.
1:07:59 - 1:08:45 Pegging out the pivot holes.
1:08:45 - 1:12:55 Reassembling the movement.
1:12:55 - 1:13:59 Checking that the strike train locks properly.
1:13:59 - 1:14:45 Describing the anchor problems.
1:14:45 - 1:15:19 Test running.
1:15:19 - 1:17:12 Restoring the dial.
1:17:12 - 1:17:49 Examining the dirty alarm.
1:17:49 - 1:18:39 Letting down the alarm's spring, using a zip-tie.
1:18:39 - 1:19:24 Disassembling the alarm.
1:19:24 - 1:21:08 Reassembling the cleaned alarm.
1:21:08 - 1:24:06 Burnishing a new pattern onto the new door glass.
1:24:06 - 1:24:31 Reassembling the door.
1:24:31 - 1:25:14 The movement in the case, then the fully assembled clock.
Це дуже важливо знати, дякую вам за працю
Its not often that one has the pleasure of watching a true craftsman, such as yourself. Great job on bringing that jewel back to life, and preserving a precious heirloom.
Thank you so much for sharing this video you are a true craftsman it was a pleasure to watch you giving the clock a new lease of life it looked beautiful thank you once again.
Hello Mr. Perry, I am so happy you used that mainspring winder. I have been given one when I decided to go into clock repair instead of watch repair. I haven't had to use it yet, but I wondered exactly how it worked. Thanks again for making these video's. They were instrumental in helping me to choose clock repair when I re-opened the shop after my wife passed away. All the best, Sean
Hi Perry, nice video. One time i feel you are the finder of this clock. Just compliment. Most important your satisfaction to work yourself and the message is that senior people never retire. God bless you perry, wish your good health.
I love Mr. Perry's videos, I've been playing around with clocks for about twenty years, fixing some that I like. His videos are some of the best I've watched. Cover a lot of detail.
Thanks
Beautiful work. Thank you for sharing.
I was in awe while watching you replace the trundles. I'd never seen that operation before. What a fantastic set of videos!
Some people pull the brass shroud to replace the trundles, but then one has to align all the new trundles to put the shroud back in place and it is also sometimes a pain to get the shroud tight again. That's why you find solder, glue and mangled parts on some clocks.
Hi
Job well done to perfection.Thank you.
Always a satisfying watch... Life seems so much simpler when you're fixing things.
Mr.Perry, I just did a movement just like this except it had a bell for the 1/2 hour strike. My first movement I bought a non working Ingrahm mantle clock for 25.00 ..took it apart..cleaned and polished the pivots..I dont have a lathe so I used my dremel on the slowest speed and I polished the pivots with some polishing compound. cleaned all the parts..cleaned all the plates and used wood tooth pics to clean all the bushings.. it took me 3 attempts but I got it back together and as soon as I released the main spring..It came to life.. I oiled it and put it on test and it runs fantastically.. I have to get some 2 1/2 inch Maltese hands from Perrins and I will refinish the case..
Congratulations on the repair. Satisfying, isn't it? I've always found a great deal of pleasure in seeing a clock running again after what may have been decades since it last made a sound. Knowing that a clock has been saved from the landfill for at least another generation is really gratifying. I just looked at your channel and it looks like you're quite a collector. I take it you are in Canada if you order from Perrin. If you don't find what you need there, don't overlook Timesavers. They ship internationally and have an enormous inventory. timesavers.com/
@@dperry428 you like my gilbert 3022? I had a clockmaker rebuild this movement.. he said to me..Wow you seem to know a lot about clocks.. so I am going to work for him this winter when he gets busy.. he has everything.. lathe.. all the broaching tools remers.. staking tools.. I bought an adamanteen seth thomas mantle clock as well.. it had not run in 50 years.. I took it home and did a quick "cowboy" clean with alcohol..threw a little oil on it and off she went. The second wheel on the chime side bushing is so worn it is a fill pivot width to the left and the strike train won't even run. I jammed a wedge of hardwood toothpick in the gap and the strike side started working.. I have to Bush this pivot and actually all the others look fine on initial inspection. Thanks for your channel.. it certainly inspired me to do this
The old rectangular regulators are one of my favorites. I especially like the ones with the advertising on the glass. Best wishes with the continuing work with clocks. When things get rough in the world, they provide a way to really shut out the craziness and lose yourself in fixing them. Good luck.
Beautiful. Enjoyed the video
YOU MAKE IT SEEM SO EASY, YOU MUST HAVE A GREAT MEMORY! God Bless
When you've done something for 51 years, shouldn't it be getting easier to do?
Very nice project. Thank you for sharing.
It's like watching over your shoulder. Thanks!
Very good video, Thank you, I'm about to restore my 1870s steeple clock movement, it needs 1 bushing so far found, new set of mainsprings, suspention spring, hour hand and ill go from there, it also has an alarm movement, I just got a spring for that so I'm gonna clean that up and get it prepared, I'm excited to see my favorite clock running again
very well done,and good cleaning
Thank you!
Great video. Beautiful work. I think this is the movement from a clock I found at an estate sale, already dismantled. Just gathering information at this point. My movement is in much better condition. Just oxidized and filthy. Beat off, etc. Yours came out so bright. I’m sure you used a pro product. Looks great.
www.esslinger.com/zenith-watch-and-clock-cleaning-solution-concentrate-251na-1-gallon/ This stuff is diluted 1 part to 7 parts water, so it makes 8 gallons.
Very nice clock love the clocks that chime
Hello Mr. Perry, excelent video! I'm writing from Chile and have the same clock, but I've some doubts about its functioning: I'd like to know how to regulate the clock's mechanism because it sums a minute every day , for example, if I set it right one day, the next day at 12 o'clock it hits 12:01, and the next day 12:02, ... . Another question is how to make the alarm work. Thank you very much.
The small nut at the bottom of the pendulum is used to regulate the timekeeping. To make the clock run slower, make the pendulum longer by turning the nut to the left, and to make it run faster, turn the nut to the right. For a minute a day, a turn of about half-a-turn should be close. The alarm mechanism is wound and then the center brass dial in the middle of the clock dial sets the time for the alarm to be released. Put the number on the brass dial of the number of the hour when you want to the alarm to sound under the hour hand. It will sound at some time during that hour. It's not really accurate. You're lucky if it sets the alarm off within 15 minutes or so. The alarm will continue to sound until it runs down. There is no shutoff.
What a great vid! I have a clock with the same markings on the brass. Same yrs etc. Its an E. Ingraham kitchen clock also. I traded some antiques for it and it acts like its wound right up and was working for 3/4 of a day and would stop. I took the face off and tried adjusting the catch wire I think u called it for the pendulum and now it wont catch and release it at all.. not sure what I did.. first timer here. I dont know where you live but would be great if you were close! I find the video relaxing and I now have a new list of tools I need to get into this. My grandfather's clocks were all sold at auction when he passed, so I'm trying to collect the same ones and make them function like he did. Thanks in advance for any advice you may have
!. Clean and oil the clock
2. If it does not run then, it likely is worn and needs bushings replaced.
I can't tell from your description what you did, so I can't advise as to what to do.
3. Watch all my clock videos and see if you find your answer. At least, it will give you some information to start inn the hobby.
DP I had never seen an ultrasonic cleaner before, thanks for including that little tidbit in the video. Now where's the popcorn for the rest of the video :-)
This is the one that Marcia's cousin gave me. It sure saves a lot of time and mess doing the cleaning. This clock had the most wear I've seen in a clock. These are usually the movements that end up on eBay as "parts" movements. I'm glad I got to save it from such a fate. It should last many years, now. I don't know how to make videos shorter and still show the work that goes into the repair. I have lots of microwave popcorn.
Work of art
Very nice👌👌👌👏👏👏
What solution do you use in your ultrasonic cleaner?
timesavers.com/i-22336012-zenith-watch-clock-cleaning-concentrate-251na.html You can also make a good cleaner out of dishwashing soap and Murphy's Oil Soap.
muito bom belo trabalho , proficionale , brazil
Obrigado
Have a Great Christmas!!
Thank you and to you and yours:
메리 크리스마스
Fröhliche Weihnachten
Hello. Acquired a Vienna regulator clock. Gave it a quick dunk and swish Clean to get some of the dirt off, I know it’s not ideal but just starting on the bigger movements so don’t have the tool to remove the springs yet.
Anyway it worked fine before but now when I wind the time side it loses tension and uncoils a bit.
Any idea what’s caused this ?
. Ok so I just realized I probably made a stupid mistake dunking the movement. I actually did two. One with the barrel and one that doesn’t. Obviously moisture will be trapped between the springs and can cause damage if left. Do I have any options other than taking the springs out and lubricating them properly? One pair are brass and other are steel. What a stupid mistake
If you didn't want to remove the springs from the barrels, you could have disassembled the movement and cleaned everything but the spring barrels. My opinion is that you have no choice but to remove the springs, properly clean and lubricate them and replace them in the barrels or in the movement. You'll simply have to deal with removing springs the old-fashioned way as I did for more than 40 years. Watch this video for those in a barrel: th-cam.com/video/B7UTN81G4nM/w-d-xo.html For springs that are open (not in barrels), you can start by winding the spring, capturing it with a spring clamp or wiring it. After disassembling the movement, put the main wheel with the spring back between the plates, wire the main wheel through a spoke to the plate. Then, it can be wound, the clamp or wire removed and the spring let completely down. To reinstall, just wind it back up, reclamp or wire the spring and let it down against the clamp or wire. Unwire the wheel from the plate and you're ready to go.
@@dperry428 thanks. I was just watching your other video on barrels, you had the towel the gloves and took no chances. Appreciate the reply. I’ll do my research and give cleaning the springs a go. All the best
@@dperry428 thanks. So you did it like the guy in the link. I’ll wear gloves and face shield and give it a go.
Thanks for replying!!
To remove the barrel cap, I don't pry it off as he did, but just grasp the barrel and smack the short end of the winding arbor on a piece of wood. That knocks the barrel cap out without distorting it. Also, he seems to have a hard time getting the first coils out. Be careful about pulling on the spring too much as it is slowly unwound. It is relatively easy to cause the spring to end up cone-shaped instead of in a flat plane. If it ends up a cone, it is virtually useless as it will now rub on the inside of the barrel cover and lose significant power. It's best to have a spring winder, but it is hard to justify spending $250 unless you're going to do a lot of this. That's why I didn't get one for many years. Now, I'm old enough to not have enough hand strength to do it the old way.
@@dperry428 yes I see the winder is the way to go but I can’t justify buying one for one movement, but I do enjoy it so possibly down the line. Like you mentioned I’ll gather the pieces as I go. But for this instance I’ll just use lots of protective gear. I’ll let you know how it goes. All the best
Great video thank you sir. Wish I could have seen you drill those holes and make the bushings. Hopefully I can find a video of that. Assuming you made those bushings, is that correct?
I spoke too soon immediately after you showed the one plate bushed. Thank you sir for such a great job
Yes, I turn them on my small lathe.
@@dperry428 may I ask what kind of brass stock do you use for bushings? You make it look so easy.. I've got an very old clock with a lot of wear and I want to attempt this. Thank you sir
I'm not a metallurgist nor a machinist, so I'm not well versed on types and hardness of brass. My sources vary with the brass I need. For example, I ordered hexagonal brass from a jobber and the round stock I order from clock supply houses. It's all easy machining stuff, but I don't remember the numbers.
I apologize if this is a redundant question. What did you use to repair the hole in the back of the case? I have found that regular wood putty is not strong enough. I hope you are enjoying your summer and look forward to you getting back to clock repair in the fall and winter. Thanks
I don't remember for this specific case, but there are two methods I use to repair holes. If it's a relatively large hole, I drill out the hole to clean up the sides of the hole, glue in a piece of wooden dowel and redrill the screw hole. If it's relatively small and I just need to make a smaller hole for the screw, I use the baking soda/super glue method. Put a piece of masking tape on one side of the hole, put a small amount of baking soda in the hole, add a drop of super glue, then more baking soda followed by super glue until the hole is filled. It hardens instantly, becoming much like a synthetic hard plastic that can then be drilled for the screw. It adheres far better than any wood filler and is much, much stronger. You can Google "baking soda and super glue" to see how well it works.
Thanks for the very quick reply. It is the baking soda/super glue method I hadn't heard of until your videos. I will use it the next time I have to repair a small hole. Do you paint the patch so that it blends in or just leave well enough alone? BTW, your granddaughter steals the show when you put her on camera. :-) Please continue posting new clock repair videos.
Generally, there is no reason to color the baking soda/super glue as it is small, hidden under the movement and, perhaps on the back of the clock. It's nicer, I think to color the dowel piece when used, as it's usually larger. I like to use acrylics to color as I can match the surrounding color. I keep a set of artist's acrylics to color repairs, such as filled and repaired cracks, dial touchups and antiquing repaired dials.
Thanks for the information. I really appreciate your videos and quick response to questions. The longer videos are great. I know you're going to get into the detail that's needed. I just watch it in segments.
www.xrestore.com/Pages/WoodScrewHoles.htm discusses the pros and cons of various screw hole repair methods. Near the end of the page he describes using a plug cutter to make a plug that matches the original wood.
Glad to see your winter clock project. I have watched and enjoyed your "rock" videos. I am building a garden rail road and will be using your methods for all of the rock work come this spring. I have most of my supplies that I received from Fishstone. Do you have email and would you mind being reached for questions? If not I understand. Thanks for your videos and keep up the good work.
I have set my comment section to "hold for review". If you put your email address in a new comment, I can copy it and delete your comment so you email is not publicly visible.
I like that zip-tie trick.
Need help, How to fix on my clock that the striking beat goes too fast.
Check the governor (the fan). It is likely too loose on its arbor.
I have recently overhauled a case on a Dutch Staarklok (tail clock) but I’d like to get some information on the movement. Do you know if there is any literature available for these clocks?
Thanks
I have no personal knowledge of them, but you might like to visit the National Association of Watch and Clock Collectors (NAWCC) message board and read the various threads there. mb.nawcc.org/search/12040516/?q=staartklok&o=relevance
Hello Sir! I like Your video, I have some question, How much money do I need to invest on tools to start fixing clocks?
And where can I buy the materials to make the bushings, pivots etc?
Thanks in advance!
How much money your need is a matter of what tools you have already, the level of you skills and the extent of the repairs you want to do. You can start fixing clocks with ordinary materials and tools most people already have for other household tasks --- screwdrivers, pliers, wire, soap and water. Don't expect to completely overhaul a badly worn clock from the beginning. There are ways to do some tasks using simple tools and techniques, but they are sometimes not the safest nor the most reliable. For example, one can replace a worn arbor pivot using an electric drill in a vice and a hand-held pin vice which constitutes an improvised crude lathe, but a small lathe does the job in a safer and more reliable manner. You can clean a clock movement with a bowl, toothbrush and soapy water, as I did for nearly 50 years, but clock cleaning solution and an ultrasonic cleaner are much more efficient -- also much more expensive. Sources I use for supplies:
timesavers.com/
ronellclock.com/
merritts.com/
butterworthclocks.com/
frankenmuthclock.com/
milehiclocksupplies.com/
blackforestimports.com/
www.ofrei.com/ClockPartsAndSupplies.html
perrinwatchparts.com/collections/clock-parts (Canada)
There are many more. Also, search on Amazon for tools and supplies.
@@dperry428 Thank You so much for the amazing reply!
Do you know what years the Ingraham Pacific was made?
No, but I'd suggest reading some of these threads on the NAWCC forum and see if you might find what you are looking for. mb.nawcc.org/search/4848564/?q=ingraham+pacific+series&o=relevance
At 10:03, it looks like somebody tried to repair it using epoxy? Probably had trouble getting solder to work, so they used epoxy instead...
Yes, I finally got it cleaned up on the lathe. They should never use solder, either. If they took off the lantern pinion shroud to replace the trundles, it should have been replace by either knurling the arbor or closing the hole in the shroud to make a tight friction fit. Solder is never an alternative to a proper repair.
dperry428 That's what I thought (regarding solder). Great videos. I enjoy seeing you bring those movements back into operation.
Mr. Perry, how do I contact you about a repair?
Simply make a comment with your email address. I hold all comments for review, will read it and delete it so your email will be seen only by me.
My clock chime are nat stopping only what can i do??
Too many variables for me to give a definitive answer. There are many variations of chime and strike mechanisms from one clock model to another. It can be a bent or broken pin on a warning wheel, it can be a bent, worn or broken lever within the chime or strike mechanism, or it can be an improperly reassembled mechanism where the gears and levers are not in their proper positions. You need to understand how the mechanism functions first and, then, carefully watch to see what is not working as designed. I can't really help beyond that general advice.
@@dperry428 no warning wheel is perfect but in the wheel one rod stops the whell that rod dosen't stop
@@dperry428 I opened it and wash the machine and then i joint properly everything and then what happened i don't know before i opened it was working properly
Don't understand. At stop, the warning pin should be near the top close to the top of the plates, resting against a stop lever. Near the hour (or half-hour) that stop lever should lift, releasing the pin and the wheel should rotate about half-a-turn and be stopped by another lever (both part of the same lever). At the hour or half-hour, that second lever drops and releases the warning pin and the clock strikes until the topmost lever is allowed to drop again to stop the warning pin and wheel.
When you say "opened it", do you mean you separated the plates, did the cleaning, put the gears back in and put the plates together again? If so, you likely did not put the gears back in the proper orientations to one another. Again, without examining the movement, I cannot determine the problem.
muito bom brazil
Obrigado
Merry chiristmas
Feliz Navidad
메리 크리스마스
Fröhliche Weihnachten
счастливого Рождества
feliz Natal
Dear Don, your videos are very instructive. I have a similiar old clock and would like to be able to contact you directly however I don't use FB. Can you set your comments to hold for review and I can send you my email address? thank you.