Man i had forgotten how bad our slicers were back in the day. Always nice remembering how far weve come. Wonder if ive got any old copies lying around to see what i can get them to even do... Thanks for showing this to everyone. :)
The slicers have come along way unfortunately I’m still using on that particular machine the same slicer from four years ago on the new K-1. I’m using the new software and it’s pretty amazing. Thanks for commenting and thank you for taking the time to comment. It is much appreciated.
I like the video, dude. Thanks. Regarding the magic inside the box, the different materials, and so on... it would be nice if you included a schematic diagram showing the materials, the N and S poles, and magnetic lines. Once again thank you
Thank you for your reply and nice comments I have made a few other videos on magnetism. I may have included them in the other videos, but I don’t remember which one if not the next one I make, I will include a schematic. Ray
Nice video. I'm facing problem with my v blocks after i opened and cleaned them. The magnetic force used to be strong but now it's very less after I assembled them back. Do you have any idea what could have gone wrong?
it’s possible the issue that you’re facing is that there is no magnet on the inside It could’ve been a magnetic core once you’ve pulled the magnetic core out you demagnetized it Check to see if the core is made from magnetic material or a chunk of steel that was magnetized Unfortunately, if it’s a magnetized core it’s not worth repairing sorry Ray
I’m not sure about the ones in the video I would have to go on track but most commonly they are either fully cast along the back or it’s a piece of tin/aluminum The shim in behind the magnet prevents the magnetic poles from grounding out I hope this helps Ray I just finished another video where I repair a magnetic base and install a magnifying light on it I don’t know if I’m gonna post it on this channel shopandmath or on my new channel raysfix
If your bass is stuck. The first thing, check to see if there is a washer underneath the large stud that you bought your indicator too It could be missing and might be screwed into the actual magnet Or it is poorly machine, and the stud portion is too long and it’s stopping the magnet from turning so take that out first If that does not free up the magnet Look inside the hole and see if it is a magnet or a steel slug If it is a steel slug, don’t do anything because there’s nothing you can do If you remove the steel slug, you will demagnetize it, and it will not work, even if you can rotate the magnet Try this and let me know if it works Ray
A better fix for the stripped thread is to bolt down a NON MAGNETIC plate to the top of the base. The plate is the same size as the mag base and about 10mm thick. Use a screw in each corner. Stainless steel works well. You will notice a significant improvement in stem rigidity using this method plus there are no longer any aluminium threads to strip out.
That’s a really good suggestion This is why commenting and reading the comments is so important it helps get other peoples perspective Thank you for sharing and also thank you for taking the time to share Ray
There is a 3rd item to be fixed on real low end magnetic bases. They do such a poor job of grinding the magnetic face surface flat, as well the partial V-block will have faces that are not in a planes that will meet in a straight line relative to the base face, so the indicator rocks on the mounting surface it is used on. I have a few of these. It looks like they did a hand grind at a belt sander. There are some permanent magnet things that should never be opened. Stepper motors, and DC servo motors, will loose much of their magnetic strength if the rotor is removed. The manufacture of these have tooling called 'keepers' that keep the magnetic flux lines flowing through some highly permeable steel during assembly, and disassembly. I know this is not pertinent to this video, but this should be known to machinists/mechanics/engineers/technicians that like to fix things. I've never taken one of these apart. Interesting to see how they work. Thanks.
yes I will post a link in the description there will be 3 files don't forget to like and sub Ray stuconestogacon-my.sharepoint.com/:f:/g/personal/rgallant_conestogac_on_ca/EuJm2BHPm1RHk0FKzEsaVzUBTsvKYtiDNKVMbWN65Shx7g?e=4cpeVh
The magnet itself does not ever turn off All it does is rotate the magnet, so that polarity is broken That is why there’s two pieces of non-magnetic material at the top and at the bottom of the V I hope that answers your question if it doesn’t, please feel free to rephrase Thank you for the nice comment and thank you for taking the time to comment. It’s much appreciated. Ray
I could only think of three things that could be the problem Number one there’s something mechanical inside that is not allowing the magnet to turn on all of the way Number two there’s a piece of metal that’s jumping the polls And diluting the strength of the magnet Number three this is a good quality magnetic base and the internal magnet should actually be a magnet not a magnetized blank Magnetize blanks lose their power after a period of time and can also be completely demagnetized in some cases by simply removing the magnetic core If it is a magnetize blank it can be re-flashed but it’s not worth doing replace the base I hope this helps Ray
@@miguelatorres7695 Don’t forget to check to make sure that it’s an actual magnet inside before you take it apart Because if it’s a magnetic slug on the inside you could demagnetize a slug just by removing it Good luck Ray
First question is it a real magnet inside or is it a magnetized iron core A magnetized iron core could lose its Magnetic strength Under certain circumstances If it’s a real magnet it’s most likely be in ground out somehow that does not allow the magnetic flux to travel from one pole to the next Inspect the outer casing for damage if you drop the unit and it’s possible that it has broken and it is also possible that it became unglued Has this been exposed to excessive temperatures if you shake it doesn’t rattle When you turn the magnet on and off is there an excessive play in the switch or when you turn it on part of the way does it slam the rest of the way on or does a train turn itself off Or is it hard to turn How’s the block ever been underwater or under coolant If it’s yester any of these questions you should probably take it apart and see if there’s any rust or foreign objects or broken pieces inside They may be hard to find because they stick together Keep in mind if The magnet is an iron core by removing the magnetic core you made demagnetize a magnet I hope this helps Ray
Hi Buddy, I just today bought my 1st mag holder and am dissatisfied because it can barely carry itself 😕. Can I do something about that, can I somehow amplify the mag force? -Without having fancy tools like 3D or a mill? Don’t get me wrong- I’d love to have them but money’s always short, You know that song...
Make absolutely sure before you take it apart that’s a magnetic core not a magnetized piece of steel The only way to increase the magnitude is if it was assembled incorrectly and somehow the magnet is shorting out but that’s highly unlikely it is possible that there’s a piece of steel jumping across the negative and positive Is there any grinding when you turn the magnet on and off? I could indicate that there’s something inside
i don’t understand the big deal with running powerful fans to the 3d printer nozzle when you can have one large pc fan in a box extracting the heat from the printer head with a hose you can use a quiet 10cm pc fan housed in a way there a hose size port-from there, plug in a flexible plastic hose too printer head-you can pull 10x the heat almost silently! you can place the fan box ten meters away!
there’s nothing wrong with running a fan to extract heat or fumes where the problem comes in for everything that you extract. You’re also adding something and depending on the time of year and where you are on the planet, you could be introducing moisture or extreme cold air. currently, my printer is showing its age I have stopped using everything except for PLA. The reason behind that is, I only do constructive and experimental parts with doing this. I am rather lucky because I can use old PLA and low quality PLA, and still produce good enough quality parts for what I need them for, I don’t do any resell so I can design parts or change the design of parts to suit the end result i’m also currently looking for a machine with a larger footprint to be able to create larger parts
Absolutely not , you should never remove the magnet from its housing , that stand will lose 80% of its magnetism within a few days, if you want to remove the magnet you should fitted inside a iron housing of the same diameter than the one you r3move the magnet from...
Removing a magnet from its housing will not demagnetize it With that said if you remove an iron core that has been magnetized it is possible to demagnetize the iron core If you watch the second video I demonstrate how do I identify the difference between an iron core and the magnetic core
4:36 the magnet grabbing everything around it was hilarious 😅thank you for the video!
Watching from Australia here, love how you printed the new switch!
Very cool. Learned how these work so I think I will 3D print me one to use in my woodshop.
thank you for the nice comment and thank you for taking the time to comment. It was much appreciated.
Ray
Man i had forgotten how bad our slicers were back in the day. Always nice remembering how far weve come. Wonder if ive got any old copies lying around to see what i can get them to even do...
Thanks for showing this to everyone. :)
The slicers have come along way unfortunately I’m still using on that particular machine the same slicer from four years ago on the new K-1. I’m using the new software and it’s pretty amazing.
Thanks for commenting and thank you for taking the time to comment. It is much appreciated.
Nicely done.
thank you for the nice comment and thank you for taking time to comment. It is much appreciated.
Ray
Well done Ray! Thanks for adding the STL files.
Richard
we need to make a video together !
I like the video, dude. Thanks. Regarding the magic inside the box, the different materials, and so on... it would be nice if you included a schematic diagram showing the materials, the N and S poles, and magnetic lines. Once again thank you
Thank you for your reply and nice comments
I have made a few other videos on magnetism. I may have included them in the other videos, but I don’t remember which one if not the next one I make, I will include a schematic.
Ray
Excellent video! I've never seen a device like this before, so now I will need to keep my eyes open!
thank you
Ray
Nice video. I'm facing problem with my v blocks after i opened and cleaned them. The magnetic force used to be strong but now it's very less after I assembled them back. Do you have any idea what could have gone wrong?
it’s possible the issue that you’re facing is that there is no magnet on the inside
It could’ve been a magnetic core
once you’ve pulled the magnetic core out you demagnetized it
Check to see if the core is made from magnetic material or a chunk of steel that was magnetized
Unfortunately, if it’s a magnetized core it’s not worth repairing sorry
Ray
I like the drawing of the magnetic poles!
Thanks, that was very useful. The device, after an explanation, is so simple, but so useful.
Cool stuff man. I love having my 3D printer as a shop tool also. Really opens up what you can do.
Couldn't agree more!
Thank you very much for your informative video. Now I can attempt to fix mine.👍👍👍
I’m glad that you like the video
thank you for taking the time to comment. It is much appreciated.
Ray
at 9:00 minutes, is the back of the case aluminum or steel?
great video! love the new handle design!
I’m not sure about the ones in the video
I would have to go on track but most commonly they are either fully cast along the back or it’s a piece of tin/aluminum
The shim in behind the magnet prevents the magnetic poles from grounding out
I hope this helps
Ray
I just finished another video where I repair a magnetic base and install a magnifying light on it I don’t know if I’m gonna post it on this channel shopandmath or on my new channel raysfix
Useful video, thanks. When my base arrived from China it was stuck and wouldn't turn. Now I know :)
If your bass is stuck.
The first thing, check to see if there is a washer underneath the large stud that you bought your indicator too
It could be missing and might be screwed into the actual magnet
Or it is poorly machine, and the stud portion is too long and it’s stopping the magnet from turning so take that out first
If that does not free up the magnet
Look inside the hole and see if it is a magnet or a steel slug
If it is a steel slug, don’t do anything because there’s nothing you can do
If you remove the steel slug, you will demagnetize it, and it will not work, even if you can rotate the magnet
Try this and let me know if it works
Ray
Thank you. I did learn 👍👍😎👍👍
Thank you for taking the time to share your experience
It’s much appreciated
Ray
A little slow but very interesting! Looking forward to the 2nd video.
thank you for commenting
I should have speed up some of the assembly
Ray
A better fix for the stripped thread is to bolt down a NON MAGNETIC plate to the top of the base. The plate is the same size as the mag base and about 10mm thick. Use a screw in each corner. Stainless steel works well. You will notice a significant improvement in stem rigidity using this method plus there are no longer any aluminium threads to strip out.
That’s a really good suggestion
This is why commenting and reading the comments is so important it helps get other peoples perspective
Thank you for sharing and also thank you for taking the time to share
Ray
Nice video!
Thank you for the nice comment and thank you for taking the time to comment. It is much appreciated.
Ray
Thanks, I enjoyed the video!
Glad you enjoyed it!
thank you for taking the time to comment
Ray
Nice lesson!
thank you
Ray
There is a 3rd item to be fixed on real low end magnetic bases. They do such a poor job of grinding the magnetic face surface flat, as well the partial V-block will have faces that are not in a planes that will meet in a straight line relative to the base face, so the indicator rocks on the mounting surface it is used on. I have a few of these. It looks like they did a hand grind at a belt sander.
There are some permanent magnet things that should never be opened. Stepper motors, and DC servo motors, will loose much of their magnetic strength if the rotor is removed. The manufacture of these have tooling called 'keepers' that keep the magnetic flux lines flowing through some highly permeable steel during assembly, and disassembly. I know this is not pertinent to this video, but this should be known to machinists/mechanics/engineers/technicians that like to fix things.
I've never taken one of these apart. Interesting to see how they work. Thanks.
Great video
Thank you for taking the time to comment it is greatly appreciate it
Ray
Hi! can you share STL ? link under video not work. thanks
Yes, it would be nice to have an active link for those of us who have recently found your channel. I appreciate the effort you put into your videos.
Do you have files of the 3-D printed parts available?
yes
I will post a link in the description
there will be 3 files
don't forget to like and sub
Ray
stuconestogacon-my.sharepoint.com/:f:/g/personal/rgallant_conestogac_on_ca/EuJm2BHPm1RHk0FKzEsaVzUBTsvKYtiDNKVMbWN65Shx7g?e=4cpeVh
Great video, one question, does a magnet switch attracts another magnet when its off?
The magnet itself does not ever turn off
All it does is rotate the magnet, so that polarity is broken
That is why there’s two pieces of non-magnetic material at the top and at the bottom of the V I hope that answers your question if it doesn’t, please feel free to rephrase
Thank you for the nice comment and thank you for taking the time to comment. It’s much appreciated.
Ray
@@shopandmath Soo it doesn't attract then?
My man! As a past Industrial Arts and Applied Math teacher, I anoint you "My Hero."
WOW that is some high praise I hope I can live up to it
Thank you for your comments
Ray
very good video, I need help, I have a BROWN & SHARPE MAG.BASE and is to week, even a baby can pull it when on, there is a way to fix it?? thanks
I could only think of three things that could be the problem
Number one there’s something mechanical inside that is not allowing the magnet to turn on all of the way
Number two there’s a piece of metal that’s jumping the polls
And diluting the strength of the magnet
Number three this is a good quality magnetic base and the internal magnet should actually be a magnet not a magnetized blank
Magnetize blanks lose their power after a period of time and can also be completely demagnetized in some cases by simply removing the magnetic core
If it is a magnetize blank it can be re-flashed but it’s not worth doing replace the base
I hope this helps
Ray
math thanks, I'm going to take it apart in order to see what is going on,,thanks
@@miguelatorres7695
Don’t forget to check to make sure that it’s an actual magnet inside before you take it apart
Because if it’s a magnetic slug on the inside you could demagnetize a slug just by removing it
Good luck
Ray
really cool video
thank you for commenting
Ray
Nice work sir. Can I get the STL files?
Please write me so we can speak about a project im doing with these on off magnet
Thanks for the vid
shopandmath@gmail.com
My v-block is extremely weak compared to our newer ones. Magnets only lose about one percent every hundred years, so what could be the problem?
First question is it a real magnet inside or is it a magnetized iron core
A magnetized iron core could lose its Magnetic strength Under certain circumstances
If it’s a real magnet it’s most likely be in ground out somehow that does not allow the magnetic flux to travel from one pole to the next
Inspect the outer casing for damage if you drop the unit and it’s possible that it has broken and it is also possible that it became unglued
Has this been exposed to excessive temperatures
if you shake it doesn’t rattle
When you turn the magnet on and off is there an excessive play in the switch or when you turn it on part of the way does it slam the rest of the way on or does a train turn itself off
Or is it hard to turn
How’s the block ever been underwater or under coolant
If it’s yester any of these questions you should probably take it apart and see if there’s any rust or foreign objects or broken pieces inside
They may be hard to find because they stick together
Keep in mind if The magnet is an iron core by removing the magnetic core you made demagnetize a magnet
I hope this helps
Ray
@@raysfix thanks man
Thank you
You're welcome
thank you for taking the time to comment
Ray
Hi Buddy, I just today bought my 1st mag holder and am dissatisfied because it can barely carry itself 😕. Can I do something about that, can I somehow amplify the mag force? -Without having fancy tools like 3D or a mill?
Don’t get me wrong- I’d love to have them but money’s always short, You know that song...
Make absolutely sure before you take it apart that’s a magnetic core not a magnetized piece of steel
The only way to increase the magnitude is if it was assembled incorrectly and somehow the magnet is shorting out but that’s highly unlikely it is possible that there’s a piece of steel jumping across the negative and positive
Is there any grinding when you turn the magnet on and off?
I could indicate that there’s something inside
@@raysfix Well, it was a user error. The thing is stiff like a doornail- I just used it wrong.
Thanks for the reply
04:36 1 for magnets, 0 for shop and math.
i don’t understand the big deal with running powerful fans to the 3d printer nozzle when you can have one large pc fan in a box extracting the heat from the printer head with a hose
you can use a quiet 10cm pc fan housed in a way there a hose
size port-from there, plug in a flexible plastic hose too printer
head-you can pull 10x the heat almost silently! you can place the fan box ten meters away!
there’s nothing wrong with running a fan to extract heat or fumes where
the problem comes in for everything that you extract. You’re also adding something and depending on the time of year and where you are on the planet, you could be introducing moisture or extreme cold air.
currently, my printer is showing its age I have stopped using everything except for PLA. The reason behind that is, I only do constructive and experimental parts with doing this. I am rather lucky because I can use old PLA and low quality PLA, and still produce good enough quality parts for what I need them for, I don’t do any resell so I can design parts or change the design of parts to suit the end result
i’m also currently looking for a machine with a larger footprint to be able to create larger parts
I WANT TO HAVE A PERMANENT WORKING MOTOR ON THIS PRICIPAL
Pleeaasse..
No glue in the screws !
Sorry, I don’t know what you’re referring to
👍 I'm schooled.
🙏
👍🇧🇷🙏🏼
Thank you for taking the time to reply. It’s much appreciated.
Ray
Good luck getting that magnet out ever again after that grease fest.😁
Removing the magnets not a problem
This guy magnetic bases
Absolutely not , you should never remove the magnet from its housing , that stand will lose 80% of its magnetism within a few days, if you want to remove the magnet you should fitted inside a iron housing of the same diameter than the one you r3move the magnet from...
Removing a magnet from its housing will not demagnetize it
With that said if you remove an iron core that has been magnetized it is possible to demagnetize the iron core
If you watch the second video I demonstrate how do I identify the difference between an iron core and the magnetic core
Seen it all the time , with all the ones , that I have seen that being done , even top brands like Eclipse and Mitutoyo