CNC Machined DIY Minibike Sprocket | WW214
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 3 ก.ย. 2018
- CNC Machined Minibike Sprocket. This video might seem random but we couldn't wait any longer to share! Don't worry, next week, we'll be back with DIY CNC Turret Lathe Part 5.
Our summer intern, Daniel, wanted to machine a sprocket for his minibike. It's amazing to see his passion and dedication to learning the trade! Making a part from start to finish helps you gain experience and build confidence, which is crucial in this industry.
This is Daniel's first time running CNC machines on his own! So, let's follow him as he machines this minibike sprocket from scratch!
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Links for this video
Deep Dive: Superglue Fixturing Video | bit.ly/2o8ZUrW
Twist Drills Are Awesome | bit.ly/2MFRcAN
Common Fusion 360 CAM Expressions | bit.ly/2DfQ41L
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Reach us / CNC Info:
Speeds & Feeds: provencut.com
Download Fusion 360: www.dpbolvw.net/click-9255839...
Online Fusion 360 Training: bit.ly/LearnFusion360
Hands-On CNC Classes: www.nyccnc.com/events
SMW Products: saundersmachineworks.com/
CNC Resources: www.nyccnc.com 5 Reasons to Use a Fixture Plate on Your CNC Machine: bit.ly/3sNA4uH - วิทยาศาสตร์และเทคโนโลยี
Asked my dad to make me a part in his machine shop when I was 8 or so, instead taught me how to run the lathe and after many failed attempts completed it and the satisfaction of making my own stuff had me hooked. 26 now and bootstrapping my own machineshop. Jobs like this video is what got me into this industry
You're lucky
Your comment about aspiring machinists needing to make practical parts can be applied to almost any discipline. I'm a software developer, and I've found the best way to be a better software developer is to write real, practical programs.
Hey John, I'm the production manager of a CNC milling shop in Germany and watch your videos for a while.
You're absolutely right when you say workholding is the most important thing about our job, with the right technology you can save a lot of time and money.
I have never tried the Super Glue trick myself, because I mainly work with steel and have magnetic chucks available.
What I noticed in this video, is that you do not have to mill the corners away when the super glue sticks as well as you say.
This only costs time, I would use after drilling a TPC strategy to make a circle to have room for the final pass.
In WW211, Ed made a lot of parts for your DIY Turret Lathe, he was a little inefficient because sometimes he had to measure the workpiece twice in the second operation, you could saved this completely if he had drilled trough the complett raw material in first operation. The drill operation will take some secounds longer but as long you have to use the Haimer and not a automatic touch probe system, you can be a lot faster.
Anyway only a few tips from a German guy... , you doing a very good job and it’s geat to see how you have evolved from your beginnings and now your are even start in 5-axis business.
Keep it up, best regards
Tobias
LOL, I'm watching this taking a coffee break because I have a similar size aluminium plate (270mm square) sitting in my VF2 waiting for the super glue to set 🤣
Great video! Man, I wish I had access to these machines when I was younger. Good for him!
Big change I would have made? Marketing! You have the chamfer tool in there anyway, put a logo/His name etc - aka "Daniel XXX - Saunders Machine Works, Summer 2018"
8:46 might want to weld that brace back that is half cut off. :-)
Keep up the good work!
You're really shooting video with great effort!Keep going on.
@NYC CNC hey john I've been using the satellite guys thick superglue in the neon green blue, with the accelerator, green brick masking tape, it lasted through 4hrs of flood coolant in my VMC
Tighten that chain! I could have totally used this when I was a teenager...
I'm making a chain tensioner for it next haha
well done Daniel
"Don't I still ask questions, offer solutions."
John's been dropping bombs of knowledge on the interns.
Good prototype. You should make one out of steel now. It'll last longer. And it will give you some experience in how materials affect your programming Speeds and Feeds.
Good work.
Thanks
Steel is way too heavy, esp on that tiny bike. I have had aluminum sprockets on all of my street bikes, which have well over 100 hp, and they're fine. Most high-end/performance/aftermarket rear sprockets are aluminum. Steel just adds rotational mass contributing to angular momentum, and unsprung mass.
Really. Ok thanks for that info. I learn something every day. I wouldn't have thought aluminum would last with a steel chain. Interesting. Thanks
Sweet as mate
If you were in production would it make sense to skip milling off the corners and just take off one side to get a prybar under it?
Is there a reason not to do a 2D contour cut that cuts a circle around the sprocket teeth instead of cutting away all the material of the plate as you did in this project?
Was the design following some kind of specifications to match the chain or was it measured?
how do you guys like the tormach 1100 ,for a beginner machinist to do potential business with the machine??? a real world tolerance spec out would help if when you get the time ?!
I have a question: Why are you machining the complete outside away? I mean If you just slot around it, it would be faster... Or am I getting something wrong here? But still Awsome Work. 👌🏻
Question: why are you spending the time turning the corners and center of the stock into chips? Seems like you could skip the corners and the center plug and just toss the leftover pieces in the scrap bin. You'd have to knock them loose from the pallet, but that isn't burning up machine time.
If you cut at full width at NYC CNC you get fired. I'd just run a 1/4" EM and cut out between all the drilled spots
I've made numerous sprockets and I never chamfer the edges. I only put a few degrees radial draft on the edges of the teeth only (both sides) leaving the roller socket with a square edge. Machinery handbook has the formulas for tooth formation. Mastercam has a built in chook that will generate a sprocket with a couple of mouse clicks. Last sprocket went from cad to cutting in 15 minutes.
The point of these videos aren't so much to show how to machine a sprocket. They're a method to show intricacies of CAD/CAM.
@@xenonram what good is knowing cad cam if you are unable to build things correctly? What customer is gonna pay money for things made incorrectly even if it's made by the greatest whiz bang programmer? I feel knowing Cad Cam applied to sound designs is best. Machining is a highly competitive business and if you're gonna survive you cant do things half way. Just my opinion from years of shop ownership.
Yes, the way they machined the sprocket is not how a motorbike chain sprockets are designed at all. What you describe is what i find on my bikes, both motorbikes and bicycles. The sprocket teeth are narrow at the tip to securely grab the chain, then the chain sinks towards the root of the teeth and the chain is fixated over it's full width. The design from the video might works as a quick demo but to actually use it seem dangerous as you might drop your chain or snap it. Feel like this needs a disclaimer since some will go out and make sprockets like this. Doing it the right way would have been just as easy.
I know it's crazy to ask, but it's for fun. Since you have access to 5 axis machine, why don't you make machined 3D benchy (benchmark for 3d printing), just for fun? :D
Yes, but did you RIDE the minibike? Was it fun?
I notice that you don't use coolant with the super glue fixture. I have found that the coolant destroys the adhesive bond of the blue tape, and the part comes loose during machining. If I am using coolant, I use the super glue, but no tape. The result is requires more cleanup to get rid of the glue residue, but the bond holds up during machining. I have also tried 2 sided carpet tape instead the the super glue, but the coolant also breaks that adhesive bond. I find that coolant gives better results on 6061 than air, especially in preventing welding of the chips to the tool.
Muito top
I have seen a lot of people (on YT) gluing the actual metal faces together and loosen it afterwards either with heat or impact. Is there a specific reason you do it with tape? Could direct superglue be an option for more aggressive work?
Tape makes removal and clean up a lot quicker, and hold just as well... As long as your burnish in the tape first.
Edit:
Also, I've found most of the time, the tape actually sticks better to most materials than the super glue directly.
Superglue needs to be cleaned off afterwards, but the tape will just peel straight off.
I would have like to see how you set your coordinate system on the second opp - or did you? How did it work out with 4 locating dowels and 45 sprocket teeth?
Use the bolt pattern
Yeah, just would have like to see it - there would be lots of ways in which you could screw that up because of odd number of sprocket teeth (lack of symmertry).
There's a tooth every 8° and a bolt hole every 72°. There's 9 teeth between each bolt which means no matter the orientation it'll line up just fine.
Well there you go... I wonder if that was premeditated or just dumb luck?
@@stefanblack3909 may just be a simple luck of the draw, but if you did it in CAM You'd just aim to have one sprocket tip at 12oclock or something.
Mini bike has a busted weld and a brand new sprocket. Lol. New sub here. Like what I see sir. Have you seen TOTs video on basically the same part?
Well done Daniel...;-p
Great application example !
Hey John, I’m a high school student and my school just bought two tormach 440s and a tormach 770. I feel like I have an idea of the whole cad/cam side of things but I still have no idea how I would set the machine up and get it running, any videos you recommend on that?
That seems like a pretty substantial outlay without knowing how to run them?
Anonymouspock my school just passed a 90 million dollar referendum so they’ve pretty much been blowing money around, none of the teachers are trained so it’s really just me and a supervisor trying to learn
Damn I wish my school would get some more CNC stuff. Out woodshop is pretty nice, we've got a number of SawStops and other nice tools, but as far as CNC goes there's one old, big ShopBot that I worked on getting running last year, and there's a couple little mini CNC mills hanging around I plan on trying to get working this year.
Tormach has videos of machine installation and they send pretty good instructions. As for operation, how about starting with Johns templates and tool libraries.
Document your efforts on getting those machines running. Pictures, videos, daily work logs, random notes scribbled on napkins at lunch, everything. Make it look nice in a binder and maybe a website for the digital stuff. Then whenever you need to present yourself to someone else, be it for a college application or a job interview, take the binder in and tell your story. Be humble yet proud and I guarantee you'll make a good impression.
the peaks on the sprocket teeth are too tall and preventing the chain rollers from rolling out easily. daniel. make your chain tensioners to run inside the chain close to the sprocket to help pull it off the sprocket. or use idlers and a second set of spring loaded tensioner rollers to pull it in. you could mount them on a triangular plate..
I wish you would have talked more about the design of the geometry, in addition to how the part was fabricated.
Well I did most of the design my self based off my very specific needs since the build is very custom. The new motor I put into the bike makes way more power than the original so I needed a stronger sprocket. It's a 420 motorcycle sprocket design which is much thicker than the original #35 sprocket allowing a larger 420 chain to rest on it, I also stepped it down to a 45 tooth sprocket to make the gear ratio more controllable with the new motor. Plus the 45 tooth design is symmetrical when flipped over making Op 2 easy.
Where do you get sprocket cad files? Say 520 pitch in various number of teeth?
Mastercam
McMaster carr has cad files for several sprocket types, certain # sprockets match motorcycle sprockets like 420 and 520 in pitch geometry but not thickness
100% No need to recreate the wheel when McMaster has all this stuff publicly available.
Thanks! I used sprocketeer and had issues with the sprocket not aligning with the chain properly. I will try a mcmaster model and see if it works out better.
Hope he is making a second one in steel now he has proven the cam ?
It'll be fine.
why did you drill the holes for the gears and not just start mill them? won't that save more time
edit: the teeth I mean
wednesday widget? it's tuesday. haha
that minibike... 7 Days to Die!
maybe have them run manual machines for the first month/year then cnc.........
I ran Bridgeports and surface grinders in a tool and die shop for 2 years before getting into cnc machines here
Daniel Esbenshade thanks for understanding that machinists are better when they learn by hand first.....
did you also type on a typewriter before a computer?
Morgan Oliff yes i did.
Cool I would just make it from steel It will not last long from aluminium. Couple wheelies . . .
Wrong. It'll last the life of that bike. I drag race 200+hp 2-strokes and all I use are aluminum sprockets in the rear.
A aluminium sprocket won't last long at all
I don’t see a single fault in this at all...
Weird. 😆
Beginner's luck. 😆
Please be careful and don't machine your sprockets like this. A chamfer alone won't do it, the teeth need to be "sharp" to avoid snapping a chain.
It's a minibike bro, not a 200hp liter bike
Would have been much better and faster and easier to band saw the corners off, clamp the roughed OD to that plate you have it on, finish the ID, then cap the ID to finish the OD and bolt pattern. You can get away with the center cap overlapping the bolt pattern if you are concerned about vibration. Just drill/mill thru the cap into the holes. That part should be done in the time it took to drill all those holes! Take that drill out of there for crying out loud!