Dude. VERY thorough. Great submission. My 09, while doing the shocks, I discovered my rubber bushings are also starting to give up. Which would explain the tire wear I'm seeing. And not the shocks....
I don't mind how he had it held up, although a jack stand would work fine instead of jacks. I do question why he disconnected the knuckle from the strut just after saying he was going to remove the sway bar link.
I wasted so much time with a pickle fork and a mallet not big enough to push the fork through and separate ball joint lol I also took the bolts out of the lower control arm before separating ball joint. The videos I watched no one talked about loosening the sway bar and I struggled to get control arm back aligned for another hour or so. Will loosen sway bar out the way and also raise the knuckle more level like how you did. Wish I would've found your video earlier today. Probably could've done both sides. My job is pissed because I'm going to miss half a day but they can kiss my ass. My bushings were beyond shot and I drive a lot.
To all of the people watching this video. Floor jacks are not meant to support a vehicle. The white label on the jack clearly states to use jacks stands. Safety first.
Definitely can take it put with taking out all these extra bolts i lrgit just qent right to the sway bar link to the balljoint and then the other 2 bolts and of course made sure it all came loose before fully taking them out 😅 theres always a bolt siezed in a bushing in the rust belt
How are they ball joints holding up I just bought all moog parts lower control arms inner and outer tie rods stabilizer sway links. My question is moog sells greaseable lower ball joints and was thinking of going with those. The ones that come with the lower control arms seem like there is no grease in them that’s my only concern.
Great video on how to change the control arms and ball joint. However, I would have kept the originals on as it seemed to not have any actual large tears (even small cracks and minor tear still operates as it should). You cannot tell the properties and longevity of rubber bushes by looking at them. From my experience and many others the thing with non oem parts are the quality of the rubbers are almost always inferior compared to OEM Honda. The only exceptions are aftermarket parts "Made in Japan". With the Japanese culture, the aftermarket parts are built with honesty and are of OEM quality if not superior (which is as they should be in the West).
One bolt you’ll have to worry about is the one holding the horizontal bushing opposite the the disk shaped bushing(compliance bushing). These days these bolts can get seized and will have to be cut with a reciprocating saw. Make sure these bolts can be loosened and will back out on their own as they’re loosened. If not, be ready to cut them or take this one to a shop and save yourself a lot of time.
I had this issue... had to cut the bushing bolt as well as the welded flange right off the car in order to just get that control arm out, that bolt was literally welded to the bushing it was so seized... now awaiting on new bolts because honda where I am doesn't carry the bolts in stock and have to be ordered in.. as for the welded flange, im hoping I can just use a 12mm flange locking nut from the ball joint with some loctite and call it a day.. :\
Hi I done same thing but I can’t put back to ball joint it’s not going true to hall . And I feel like drive shaft coming off inside middle boot can u help me please
It would be great if you add to the title whether you are doing the rear or front control arms... I think you are doing fronts, but have to watch to see. I need to do my rears.
First thing I did when I got my 2006 is I removed the sway bars and links all together. Been driving without them for 4 years and makes working under the car 10x easier.
Good job, the detail that I worked backwards.....didn't do the correct procedure ✔️ I didn't have to remove the shock absorber, it was only the lower control arm
7/2023 Update 2! MOOG control arm bushings deteriorating! #automobile #carrepair #mechanic #car th-cam.com/users/shortsHc01EGfZf0A 7/2023 UPDATE ON THE MOOG CONTROL ARM BALL JOINT!!! th-cam.com/users/shortsry5pOPlGal0
The proper way is to do an alignment after any suspension or wheel mods but if the parts are oem dimensions I think you can get away with not doing it. Alignment will mainly consist of adjustments to the tie rods which are not perturbed when doing the control arm replacement.
@@kelvinsgarage. Well that sucks. Was hoping these would help my horribly riding 2010. Handles big bumps like a Model T, even before they went bad. Bushings went from going bad for awhile to shot. Car tries doing the macarena on the highway.
You’ll probably still feel an improvement with the MOOGs, but maybe a different brand would be better. If you’re feeling adventurous you can just press out or burn out the OEM bushings from the stock control arms and install new bushings only. Good luck!
@@kelvinsgarage. Wow, you're one of the very few who reply, even quicker than necessary at that! Thank you for that alone. I already bought loaded arms with bushings and ball joints. Car has 263k so probably best and cost isn't much difference in cost. Driving Uber in city streets have them probably about to shatter anyway, lol. But yeah, an empty dump truck rides better than this! I don't get it.....it's a HoNdA!
No need to get creative with the cotter pin that Moog gives you. Just insert the cotter point and bend the ends over. Honda's fancy cotter pin works because it's spring steel so that it can be removed and reused. Generic cotters pins are not spring steel and they are not reusable. There's no need to duplicate Honda's fancy cotter pin. There is a need to have a secure cotter pin.
Dude. VERY thorough. Great submission. My 09, while doing the shocks, I discovered my rubber bushings are also starting to give up. Which would explain the tire wear I'm seeing. And not the shocks....
I switched to Moog just recently. I sprayed some AT205 on the rubber portions to help it stay supple.
Thanks bro I'll use this video when I need to replace mine.
Once I seen how you had the car supported I couldn’t really take this seriously. Also why would you undo the strut from the knuckle?
I don't mind how he had it held up, although a jack stand would work fine instead of jacks. I do question why he disconnected the knuckle from the strut just after saying he was going to remove the sway bar link.
You don’t have to loosen the strut. That way the knuckle won’t dangle
Exactly. No need to do that. Jack the car up, remove the wheel. Pop the ball joint out and remove the two bolts holding the control arm. Done
I wasted so much time with a pickle fork and a mallet not big enough to push the fork through and separate ball joint lol I also took the bolts out of the lower control arm before separating ball joint.
The videos I watched no one talked about loosening the sway bar and I struggled to get control arm back aligned for another hour or so.
Will loosen sway bar out the way and also raise the knuckle more level like how you did.
Wish I would've found your video earlier today. Probably could've done both sides.
My job is pissed because I'm going to miss half a day but they can kiss my ass. My bushings were beyond shot and I drive a lot.
Did the moog suspension last for 2 years Kevin??
Unfortunately, in less than two years, the bushing rubber has also started to crack.
To all of the people watching this video. Floor jacks are not meant to support a vehicle. The white label on the jack clearly states to use jacks stands. Safety first.
Yo how you’re working is dangerous af you need some jack stands under there, can’t be depending on floor jacks bro.
Agreed. I have always been told to never use a floor jack to support a vehicle, but only to get it up to place jack stands...
Definitely can take it put with taking out all these extra bolts i lrgit just qent right to the sway bar link to the balljoint and then the other 2 bolts and of course made sure it all came loose before fully taking them out 😅 theres always a bolt siezed in a bushing in the rust belt
How are they ball joints holding up I just bought all moog parts lower control arms inner and outer tie rods stabilizer sway links. My question is moog sells greaseable lower ball joints and was thinking of going with those. The ones that come with the lower control arms seem like there is no grease in them that’s my only concern.
Great video on how to change the control arms and ball joint.
However, I would have kept the originals on as it seemed to not have any actual large tears (even small cracks and minor tear still operates as it should).
You cannot tell the properties and longevity of rubber bushes by looking at them.
From my experience and many others the thing with non oem parts are the quality of the rubbers are almost always inferior compared to OEM Honda.
The only exceptions are aftermarket parts "Made in Japan".
With the Japanese culture, the aftermarket parts are built with honesty and are of OEM quality if not superior (which is as they should be in the West).
One bolt you’ll have to worry about is the one holding the horizontal bushing opposite the the disk shaped bushing(compliance bushing). These days these bolts can get seized and will have to be cut with a reciprocating saw. Make sure these bolts can be loosened and will back out on their own as they’re loosened. If not, be ready to cut them or take this one to a shop and save yourself a lot of time.
I had this issue... had to cut the bushing bolt as well as the welded flange right off the car in order to just get that control arm out, that bolt was literally welded to the bushing it was so seized... now awaiting on new bolts because honda where I am doesn't carry the bolts in stock and have to be ordered in.. as for the welded flange, im hoping I can just use a 12mm flange locking nut from the ball joint with some loctite and call it a day.. :\
@@jmaclicious10 yeah a proper nut should keep it in place. I’ve been running the same setup for a little over a year.
My ball joint separator was a big fing hammer lol
Hi I done same thing but I can’t put back to ball joint it’s not going true to hall . And I feel like drive shaft coming off inside middle boot can u help me please
It would be great if you add to the title whether you are doing the rear or front control arms... I think you are doing fronts, but have to watch to see. I need to do my rears.
First thing I did when I got my 2006 is I removed the sway bars and links all together. Been driving without them for 4 years and makes working under the car 10x easier.
Do we have to pop out the ball joint if we are only putting new bushings?
Thanks for the video learned alot
Good job, the detail that I worked backwards.....didn't do the correct procedure ✔️ I didn't have to remove the shock absorber, it was only the lower control arm
Muito bom !!! Excelente vídeo 👏 Brasil
I bought some Mevotech's. You think these are good?
Haven’t used mevotech before but seems okay
@@kelvinsgarage They are BAD. Stay away from Mevotech. We just had to change them out.
Thanks for the tip!
7/2023 Update 2! MOOG control arm bushings deteriorating! #automobile #carrepair #mechanic #car
th-cam.com/users/shortsHc01EGfZf0A
7/2023 UPDATE ON THE MOOG CONTROL ARM BALL JOINT!!!
th-cam.com/users/shortsry5pOPlGal0
Do these fit on the SI model?
The process is the same but these exact part numbers don't appear to be the same.
Is an alignment required after this?
The proper way is to do an alignment after any suspension or wheel mods but if the parts are oem dimensions I think you can get away with not doing it. Alignment will mainly consist of adjustments to the tie rods which are not perturbed when doing the control arm replacement.
I would. Aftermarket part will close to factory dimensions within a tolerance. But it's not going to be exact.
Yep, especially if the car came with camber bolts already in.
@@kelvinsgarage correct. They lost control arms shocks affect alignment.
how are they?
They feel stiffer than the OEMs so the car will corner a little better. I wouldn’t say they ride more comfortably though.
@@kelvinsgarage nice, well it's always a balancing act of harshness and softness for handling
@@kelvinsgarage. Well that sucks. Was hoping these would help my horribly riding 2010. Handles big bumps like a Model T, even before they went bad. Bushings went from going bad for awhile to shot. Car tries doing the macarena on the highway.
You’ll probably still feel an improvement with the MOOGs, but maybe a different brand would be better. If you’re feeling adventurous you can just press out or burn out the OEM bushings from the stock control arms and install new bushings only. Good luck!
@@kelvinsgarage. Wow, you're one of the very few who reply, even quicker than necessary at that! Thank you for that alone. I already bought loaded arms with bushings and ball joints. Car has 263k so probably best and cost isn't much difference in cost. Driving Uber in city streets have them probably about to shatter anyway, lol. But yeah, an empty dump truck rides better than this! I don't get it.....it's a HoNdA!
how many control arms total are there on the FA5s and did you replace all of them?
There are only two of this type in the front. The rear is different.
Not using jack stands is dangerous and should not be copied!
Can these part #s be used for the 8th gen si model as well?
Number 5 you mean 5 mm allen ?
Nice name
No need to get creative with the cotter pin that Moog gives you. Just insert the cotter point and bend the ends over. Honda's fancy cotter pin works because it's spring steel so that it can be removed and reused. Generic cotters pins are not spring steel and they are not reusable. There's no need to duplicate Honda's fancy cotter pin. There is a need to have a secure cotter pin.
doing to much