@@FixedUntilBroken Yea, It's hard to find them nowadays where they haven't all desoldered themselves from the board. Would be nice if they gave us some color bands right? And not that it makes any difference, but if you're curious, the stock configuration from top down or bottom up is 120, 150, 150, 120. Some of the Impala's us the same 4 resistors, just spread out a bit differently.
@@mike7958 I suspect they originally did have color bands and that they are just gone from heat. the resistors are in parallel so it does matter the order. They add up 33.33 ohms run like that so you might be better off using all 140 ohm resistors it gets you closer at 35 ohms while all 150 is 37.5 so it is a little darker.
Can you provide some info on how to hooked up some juice to test this? Which pins did you put the +/- wires to and what kind of battery did you hook it up to? Thanks
Great video! Is there a link where I can find these resistors? I’m trying to source some with a Google search, but I’m falling short on results at the moment.
i did this several years ago on our 1st buick no problem, still working. just did it on my 2nd buick and still not working. pretty sure im using the same leftover resistors from the 1st try- didn't work. went to ax man surplus and bought different resistors and still no go. anyone got any other fixes before i go buy a junkyard one? as referenced in other comments i tried some other resistors 2 120 2 150s still nothing. maybe i messed something up, my reading glasses help but im getting old. also 2 of my original resistors were missing so i assume that's the problem or at least a problem. just went out, car only has 100k miles.
Do you think this would apply to other GM cars such as Oldsmobile 88 from around the same year with the same issue of the odometer and gearshift display going out?
Is there a video you have or that you could make that could show me how to get access to this circuit board? My LED gear position indicator and odometer/trip display was cutting in and out, and now it just doesn't work at all. I'm great at mechanics and electronics, and I could fix this stupid quick, but tearing apart the dashboard, console and everything else behind .... I need blueprints LOL! HELP!!!!!! 😭
@@FixedUntilBroken absolutely, I understand. not to be a hassle, can you link it in a reply? I've got 2 short days off after my last shift and if I can tackle this, well ... my mom would be forever grateful! xD I appreciate you!
@@crackerjack4833 Too late, but here's a video on the same topic with a good dashboard take apart description. He points out where all the fasteners are. The video by FixedUntilBroken has a better soldering description. th-cam.com/video/5HRpIumibyE/w-d-xo.html I would add to the dash take apart, that once you have all the screws out, you're still pulling friction fittings apart. I find that starting at the driver side and gently pulling the slips/fasteners loose working my way to the glove box works pretty well.
Back in the good old days people "repaired" high-mileage cars with a reversible drill hooked up to the speedo cable. In 10 minutes you now had a low-mileage creampuff...
Also back in the day they called them creampuffs. I only know that term because I saw this 60 mins report from the early 90s about this fat Texas dealer rolling back odometers
"Also" (back in the good ole days), you just reached under the dash, popped out the socket and bulb, and replaced it. Didn't have-ta pull the entire dash apart. These new plastic cars suck.
On a Buick roll this week. I was hoping I was going to get to program the Odometer to do a video on it but the mechanic does that in house I guess.
What is the item # for the super lube you are using I see they have a super lube lightweight.
Very professional. I wish I had your positive touch when soldering. Thanks for posting.
If you want to get technical, these clusters actually have two 120 ohm and two 150 ohm resistors. But four 150 ohm resistors will work fine.
Really? I actually didn't know that. I've never gotten on in with all 4 resistors still on it. They never have color bands still.
@@FixedUntilBroken Yea, It's hard to find them nowadays where they haven't all desoldered themselves from the board. Would be nice if they gave us some color bands right? And not that it makes any difference, but if you're curious, the stock configuration from top down or bottom up is 120, 150, 150, 120. Some of the Impala's us the same 4 resistors, just spread out a bit differently.
@@mike7958 I suspect they originally did have color bands and that they are just gone from heat. the resistors are in parallel so it does matter the order. They add up 33.33 ohms run like that so you might be better off using all 140 ohm resistors it gets you closer at 35 ohms while all 150 is 37.5 so it is a little darker.
@@FixedUntilBrokenis that why all the videos on this type of repair seem to have the gear selector stuck on drive?
I want to thank you. I did this fix today. Your video was very helpful.
Can you provide some info on how to hooked up some juice to test this? Which pins did you put the +/- wires to and what kind of battery did you hook it up to? Thanks
What wires do you have to hook up to test it like that so I know which ones I can need
Great video! Is there a link where I can find these resistors? I’m trying to source some with a Google search, but I’m falling short on results at the moment.
Hey buddy where can I find the correct resistors for this repair? I’m having a hard time finding 150ohm 3/4 watt resistors like these.
i did this several years ago on our 1st buick no problem, still working. just did it on my 2nd buick and still not working. pretty sure im using the same leftover resistors from the 1st try- didn't work. went to ax man surplus and bought different resistors and still no go. anyone got any other fixes before i go buy a junkyard one? as referenced in other comments i tried some other resistors 2 120 2 150s still nothing. maybe i messed something up, my reading glasses help but im getting old. also 2 of my original resistors were missing so i assume that's the problem or at least a problem. just went out, car only has 100k miles.
Do you think this would apply to other GM cars such as Oldsmobile 88 from around the same year with the same issue of the odometer and gearshift display going out?
@5:45 Are those separate two 47 ohm? What watt?
where do you find the flat rectangular resistors
A12 ground B12 positive and the other?
Firgure it out A2 other positive Thanks anyways good video
saved me, thanks
@@thatbiguy1975 Your welcome Big Secret huh 😆
February 14th 2023 where are you located do you do
Anybody's am or just
Local?
I just repaired my odometer using this instructional video! I ordered my resistors and solder kit from Amazon! About $25 total..
If you are still repairing these thing in your address and how much you charge
Is there a video you have or that you could make that could show me how to get access to this circuit board? My LED gear position indicator and odometer/trip display was cutting in and out, and now it just doesn't work at all.
I'm great at mechanics and electronics, and I could fix this stupid quick, but tearing apart the dashboard, console and everything else behind .... I need blueprints LOL!
HELP!!!!!! 😭
Hmm I don't have to make a video of but if you watch one of my 03-07 gm truck videos it should give you a good idea. They come apart about the same.
@@FixedUntilBroken absolutely, I understand. not to be a hassle, can you link it in a reply? I've got 2 short days off after my last shift and if I can tackle this, well ... my mom would be forever grateful! xD
I appreciate you!
@@crackerjack4833 Too late, but here's a video on the same topic with a good dashboard take apart description. He points out where all the fasteners are. The video by FixedUntilBroken has a better soldering description. th-cam.com/video/5HRpIumibyE/w-d-xo.html
I would add to the dash take apart, that once you have all the screws out, you're still pulling friction fittings apart. I find that starting at the driver side and gently pulling the slips/fasteners loose working my way to the glove box works pretty well.
Where is the best place to purchase these SPECIFIC resistors? Vendor and part number (MELF 150 ohm .25 watt)?
I never order them in melf package. I use normal smd ones to replace but 3/4 watt
I’m having the same problem
Back in the good old days people "repaired" high-mileage cars with a reversible drill hooked up to the speedo cable. In 10 minutes you now had a low-mileage creampuff...
Also back in the day they called them creampuffs. I only know that term because I saw this 60 mins report from the early 90s about this fat Texas dealer rolling back odometers
So the Matilda movie wasn't lying about that!
"Also" (back in the good ole days), you just reached under the dash, popped out the socket and bulb, and replaced it. Didn't have-ta pull the entire dash apart. These new plastic cars suck.
fail. more questions then answers.
4:22 Resistors can be 5%(E24) tolerance 151 or 1%(E96) tolerance 1500. en.wikipedia.org/wiki/E_series_of_preferred_numbers