My Cam and crank seals had to be pressed in, even with the lube. For the cam seals I took the old seal and stacked it with the new seal, placed the cam wheel over that and then tightened the bolt until the new seal was seated. Worked like a charm. For that crank seal I placed a 1 1/5 inch PVC pipe coupling over the shaft and then tightened the crank bolt to press the new seal in. These were Felpro seals from O'Reily's. Made in Japan, but not OEM. Extremely tight fit! You have to include "kit" when searching for the crank seal at O'Reily's.
Great video! I believe you have shown me in this video series that all the goods have to come off to change a crank seal. I had my local mechanic (ex-toyota shop guy) do a timing belt/water pump service for me at 180k a year ago on my 04'. While he was that deep into it I asked him to change cam and crank seals. They weren't leaking that I knew of, just thought it would be good prevention while it was opened up (hindsight....leave well enough alone). Not long after the service during a crawl underneath checking things out, I noticed a trail of oil from below the crank cover covering the oil pan and etc. behind it. I have tracked the oil level through a following oil change cycle and never notice a significant drop in level even though the leak trail comes back after deep cleanings. Really covers the pan and cross member areas, but never has made it past the skid plates to the ground. Have you seen crank seal leaks become anywhere near catastrophic in loss rates, something I would notice on the stick before it looses a significant amount? Would you assume the crank sealing surface got scratched during the seal change to cause such a slow leak? Ultimately, I'm torn if it is risky enough I should have someone go back in and change the seal, let it ride until the next service and deal with the undercarriage mess occasionally, or assume that if the crank sealing surface is nicked that a seal change may get me the same leaking results after future seal changes. Sorry its a long comment... you obviously have proven that you've been around the block literally on these things and I value your experience to either validate my worries or settle me down that it's not that big of a deal and keep an eye on it. Thanks!
I've nicked seals or driven them in a bit crooked and had them leak after a change. It sucks but we just go back in and change them again. It's possible the crank surface got scratched depending on what kind of puller was used but the crank seems pretty resilient. We've had one truck where it wasn't the crank seal but the o-ring between the oil pump and engine block that was leaking. That one was fun since the engine comes out to get the pump off. If the leak isn't making it to the ground and you aren't noticing a drop in level on the dipstick, it's probably OK to just monitor it. I haven't seen one become a gusher. I guess it's a possibility though. I'd think about popping one of the upper covers off to take a look at the belt. If the belt is getting oily I'd definitely change it since the oil will break down the belt.
Besides the seals being an interference fit around the outside diameter, making them difficult to remove, they also get welded to the hole from the many heat cycles during it's life. If you marinate the outside diameter with PB Blaster, they come out a little easier.
Thank you very much for these videos! I am at the point of removing cam bolts. They are super stuck. Any pointers to get them off? Can i spray PB blaster on these? I tried extensions on the cam tool and breaker bar but it isnt budging. Dont want to snap bolt. Thank you!!
Let the PB blaster soak for 2 days and then just used the impact. Both bolts came right off! Those suckers were on there tight until today. Thank you for your response and again for the invaluable insight in your timing belt videos. Now time to put it all back together 😅
What is the torque spec to re-tighten the cam sprockets? I am in the middle of this job using your video, but don’t know how tight to finalize the bolts.
is there a different set of cam and crank oil seals for a 2006 vs a 2001. The cam seals you installed look bigger than the ones Amazon recommends for my 2006.
Had my timing belt replaced 7,000 miles ago. After throwing a camshaft position sensor code repeatedly I thought I'd look at my timing and noticed a large gouge on the back of the timing belt?? Not sure what could have happened. The back of the belt makes contact with the idler pully and water pump. Which were replaced. Do you think a bolt backed out and fell between? That's all I could think?
It's hard to say without seeing it. If I bolt backed out and cut it, it's likely still in the bottom cover. I'd look to make sure nothing is in the covers waiting to break the belt.
Great video along with the updated part 1 and part 3! I really appreciate the time you’ve taken to make them (twice!).I have a couple questions and hope you have time to respond. I have a ‘04 GX470 and I’m assuming same procedures (I have FSM). Would you replace the cam and crank seal if the engine has 200K miles even if they aren’t leaking yet? Sounds like you wouldn’t, but I wanted to double check. Is it as easy as it looks when the engine is in the car as it is when it’s out? (Btw, The links for the cam and crank seals say they don’t work on my engine so I’ll do some research on that). Have you had any problems with the water pumps in these kits? In the comments some people were saying they leaked...I’m not too worried but thought I’d ask since there’s no markings on the WP to guarantee they are Aisin. Finally, would you do anything with the alternator or power steering pump while they are removed? I was thinking about changing the bearing and brushes on the alternator if it’s never been changed before. -Kathy
We've never had any problems out of the Aisin water pumps. The cam and crank seals are easy to do while you're in there as long as it isn't a vvt-i model. Those started around 04-05. Power steering pumps we haven't seen any issues with. We've only seen a few alternators go out. So your call.
@@OTRAMM thanks for the response! I actually bought a water pump from Stevenson Toyota because I got nervous the one in the kit was a Chinese knockoff but guess what, the dealer part doesn’t have the aisin markings either (surprising for sure but it came in the Lexus box from the dealer so I’m sure it’s a good Japanese part)! I’m feeling like the kit probably carries the same one. Regarding the alternator, since it’s a pain to get to, I bought brushes and will change those out.
When I got my 2006 LX470 back from shop after replacing camshaft seals it sounded like a diesel making a ticking noise. I took it back and they found that it was the scissor gears causing the ticking noise. They did fix at no charge. My main concern is if that it caused any damage for the day we drove it making the ticking noise. What is your opinion?
By scissor gears I'm guessing they're talking about the VVTi actuators. I've yet to need to take one apart. It's my understanding that the cams get pulled to change the seal on that engine. I haven't had to do one yet. We've been lucky so far and haven't had and VVTi motors come through with cam leaks. It's hard to say if there was any damage caused without knowing what went wrong with the initial install. I'd hang on to any paperwork from the repair just in case an issue pops up in the future.
I've never heard of anyone cracking the crankcase on a 4.7. Usually cracks in the crankcase aren't something that gets fixed, it's a replace the part kind of repair. If it is fixed it goes to a machine shop for the repair.
I have a 2007 sequoia sr5 , is it variable valve timing or is it exactly like this video? Also, do I need to replace my seals when doing my timing belt? What else do you recommend replacing when doing the timing belt replacement? Truck has 89,000 miles . Thank you.
It's close but not exactly the same. The VVTi motors get the belt removed at a different angle. You won't be able to do the cam seals since they're behind the timing actuators. You can do the crank seal if it's leaking. We do the thermostat while everything is apart. Depending on mileage you may want to do the fan bracket as well.
OTRAMM thank you. It has 89,000 miles. The crankshaft seal isn’t leaking. I don’t know if the passenger side camshaft is leaking but it might be. The driver side camshaft definitely is not leaking. I’m trying to trace a tiny leak from above the power steering pump that eventually drips onto my alternator. I think it might be the camshaft seal but I don’t know for sure. I replaced the valve cover gasket on the passenger side but it didn’t fix that leak that I mentioned it’s coming from elsewhere. Either way I have to replace timing belt and want to know what parts I should replace while I’m in there? Should I replace the tensioner, pulleys, ...etc? Is Mutsobushi any good? Aisen? Contitect?Great channel by the way.
@@ozelot250 I use the Aisin TKT021 kit. There's a link to it on our website. It's all high quality Japanese parts. Hopefully it isn't your cam seal that's leaking. From what I understand the camshaft itself has to come out to change it. I haven't had to do one yet.
Does the oil need to be drained when doing the crank seal? Or, is the oil level low enough? Also, is any type of grease sufficient when installing the new seals? Thank you, sir.
Can you post a link to the cam pulley holder tool you use(I didn't see it in the list of tools on your website)? There are a few on amazon, none of which specifically had the 4.7 noted. Thanks and great video.
Should have mentioned, you don't want to remove the VVT-i cam pulleys. You have to pull the entire cam to change the seal as far as I know. Haven't had to do one yet.
There's really not a good way. The belt itself usually doesn't look bad until it's waaay past due. The water pump and pulleys will show wear but you can't see them with the covers on. It's a good idea to just do it every 90k or whenever you don't know when it was done previously.
As long as the crankshaft is still at the proper position you should be fine. Just spin the cam back the way it came to line it up. Do it gently though in case there is any interference to the piston. You don't want to force anything.
@@OTRAMM Thanks bud👍 last question.. let's just imagine the engine motor is still in the truck, what major parts would you have to remove in order to replace the seals on both cams?
Toyota calls the "crankshaft seal" an oil pump seal. If you order a crankshaft seal, it is too small (diameter-wise). The OE P/N for my 2004 GX470 is 90311-A0001 and the National Seal 710615 is an alternative.
the sealant on the cam seals is really odd. Seems like the seal isnt doing a good enough job if it needs it, but maybe im just bitter cause i didnt think of the split in the cover that it would help close up. BTW i made a little pulley holder out of the old belt bolted to a handle.
@@OTRAMM Nice I thought so. Just ordered my OEM seals from Toyota and going to be watching your video again before doing my timing / water pump, seals and ect… thanks for the really helpful video.
Thanks man for all your videos. Great work. Isnt that a nissan patrol in the back stage there? I have a few questions about trolls if possible Respect from tunisia
The oil pan won't fit out with the engine in and it comes off to get the oil pump off. You might be able to just lift the engine but it would be difficult to clean the seal surfaces that way.
@@OTRAMM thanks! I'll watch you vids a couple more times to see if I can build enough confidence. I know I can do it but I've never done it and I don't wanna mess anything up lol I'll ask around for some prices and see what's up. Great videos btw, thank you from everyone!
How did you remove the actual gear on the crank to access the seal? And if none of the seals are leaking should I change them? 158k 2001 tundra.. thanks
My Cam and crank seals had to be pressed in, even with the lube. For the cam seals I took the old seal and stacked it with the new seal, placed the cam wheel over that and then tightened the bolt until the new seal was seated. Worked like a charm.
For that crank seal I placed a 1 1/5 inch PVC pipe coupling over the shaft and then tightened the crank bolt to press the new seal in.
These were Felpro seals from O'Reily's. Made in Japan, but not OEM. Extremely tight fit!
You have to include "kit" when searching for the crank seal at O'Reily's.
best auto tech video ive ever seen. Great speaking clearly explaining.
Excellent. Thanks for the video. I love seeing the engine clearly (out of the truck).
Yes way and on time Brother! Great Video! I'm a believer!😊
Take pride in your work I love it! Great job and thank you for this video it helped out so much
Appreciate it man, Saved my a$$. Great video, better audio next time, but better than last time. I support you.
Thanks for showing the cam seal replacement, had heard it was a much bigger job.
It is on the vvti motors.
Great video, I followed along when putting mine back together. Great help. Thanks for doing this
Thank you SO much for your detailed instruction, most appreciated by this intrepid amateur:)
Just saved me $100 on cam seals. I have vvt but was going to order.
Great video! I believe you have shown me in this video series that all the goods have to come off to change a crank seal. I had my local mechanic (ex-toyota shop guy) do a timing belt/water pump service for me at 180k a year ago on my 04'. While he was that deep into it I asked him to change cam and crank seals. They weren't leaking that I knew of, just thought it would be good prevention while it was opened up (hindsight....leave well enough alone). Not long after the service during a crawl underneath checking things out, I noticed a trail of oil from below the crank cover covering the oil pan and etc. behind it. I have tracked the oil level through a following oil change cycle and never notice a significant drop in level even though the leak trail comes back after deep cleanings. Really covers the pan and cross member areas, but never has made it past the skid plates to the ground. Have you seen crank seal leaks become anywhere near catastrophic in loss rates, something I would notice on the stick before it looses a significant amount? Would you assume the crank sealing surface got scratched during the seal change to cause such a slow leak? Ultimately, I'm torn if it is risky enough I should have someone go back in and change the seal, let it ride until the next service and deal with the undercarriage mess occasionally, or assume that if the crank sealing surface is nicked that a seal change may get me the same leaking results after future seal changes. Sorry its a long comment... you obviously have proven that you've been around the block literally on these things and I value your experience to either validate my worries or settle me down that it's not that big of a deal and keep an eye on it. Thanks!
I've nicked seals or driven them in a bit crooked and had them leak after a change. It sucks but we just go back in and change them again. It's possible the crank surface got scratched depending on what kind of puller was used but the crank seems pretty resilient. We've had one truck where it wasn't the crank seal but the o-ring between the oil pump and engine block that was leaking. That one was fun since the engine comes out to get the pump off. If the leak isn't making it to the ground and you aren't noticing a drop in level on the dipstick, it's probably OK to just monitor it. I haven't seen one become a gusher. I guess it's a possibility though. I'd think about popping one of the upper covers off to take a look at the belt. If the belt is getting oily I'd definitely change it since the oil will break down the belt.
That's what I needed to hear. Thank you!
@@OTRAMM In the case of the oil pump o-ring, where was the leaked oil collecting?
Below the timing cover. You could see it tracing around the oil pump.
Buen trabajo! Muchas gracias por tu tiempo!
Excellent video mate, subscribed!
Thank you for the video! Helped me a lot!
Besides the seals being an interference fit around the outside diameter, making them difficult to remove, they also get welded to the hole from the many heat cycles during it's life. If you marinate the outside diameter with PB Blaster, they come out a little easier.
great thanks
Greetings to an engineer, this method is adjustable, such as Toyota Sequoia 2002, and Jero, the most important of the importance of His Excellency.
Hi sir
Pease I have question
Can I replace the front crankshaft seal without remove or change the water pump
Thank you very much for these videos! I am at the point of removing cam bolts. They are super stuck. Any pointers to get them off? Can i spray PB blaster on these? I tried extensions on the cam tool and breaker bar but it isnt budging. Dont want to snap bolt. Thank you!!
Blaster probably won't help much. You may need an impact if they're that stuck
Let the PB blaster soak for 2 days and then just used the impact. Both bolts came right off! Those suckers were on there tight until today. Thank you for your response and again for the invaluable insight in your timing belt videos. Now time to put it all back together 😅
quick question what's the part # on that seal puller? if u wouldn't mind, thanx
Nice job 👍
What is the torque spec to re-tighten the cam sprockets? I am in the middle of this job using your video, but don’t know how tight to finalize the bolts.
Found it at start of Part 3 - 80 ft lbs for anyone else with the same question
Had the same question. Thanks
is there a different set of cam and crank oil seals for a 2006 vs a 2001. The cam seals you installed look bigger than the ones Amazon recommends for my 2006.
You don't change the cam seals on the VVTi usually. The whole cam comes out to change them.
Any idea what the torque specs are for the camshaft timing belt pulley bolts are?
Had my timing belt replaced 7,000 miles ago. After throwing a camshaft position sensor code repeatedly I thought I'd look at my timing and noticed a large gouge on the back of the timing belt?? Not sure what could have happened. The back of the belt makes contact with the idler pully and water pump. Which were replaced. Do you think a bolt backed out and fell between? That's all I could think?
It's hard to say without seeing it. If I bolt backed out and cut it, it's likely still in the bottom cover. I'd look to make sure nothing is in the covers waiting to break the belt.
Great video along with the updated part 1 and part 3! I really appreciate the time you’ve taken to make them (twice!).I have a couple questions and hope you have time to respond. I have a ‘04 GX470 and I’m assuming same procedures (I have FSM).
Would you replace the cam and crank seal if the engine has 200K miles even if they aren’t leaking yet? Sounds like you wouldn’t, but I wanted to double check. Is it as easy as it looks when the engine is in the car as it is when it’s out? (Btw, The links for the cam and crank seals say they don’t work on my engine so I’ll do some research on that).
Have you had any problems with the water pumps in these kits? In the comments some people were saying they leaked...I’m not too worried but thought I’d ask since there’s no markings on the WP to guarantee they are Aisin.
Finally, would you do anything with the alternator or power steering pump while they are removed? I was thinking about changing the bearing and brushes on the alternator if it’s never been changed before.
-Kathy
We've never had any problems out of the Aisin water pumps. The cam and crank seals are easy to do while you're in there as long as it isn't a vvt-i model. Those started around 04-05. Power steering pumps we haven't seen any issues with. We've only seen a few alternators go out. So your call.
@@OTRAMM thanks for the response! I actually bought a water pump from Stevenson Toyota because I got nervous the one in the kit was a Chinese knockoff but guess what, the dealer part doesn’t have the aisin markings either (surprising for sure but it came in the Lexus box from the dealer so I’m sure it’s a good Japanese part)! I’m feeling like the kit probably carries the same one. Regarding the alternator, since it’s a pain to get to, I bought brushes and will change those out.
Good video! FYI the engineers at Toyota do not apply form in place gasket on the outside of the seals at the factory.
They don't, but I do. It makes install much easier and seals any imperfections.
When I got my 2006 LX470 back from shop after replacing camshaft seals it sounded like a diesel making a ticking noise. I took it back and they found that it was the scissor gears causing the ticking noise. They did fix at no charge. My main concern is if that it caused any damage for the day we drove it making the ticking noise. What is your opinion?
By scissor gears I'm guessing they're talking about the VVTi actuators. I've yet to need to take one apart. It's my understanding that the cams get pulled to change the seal on that engine. I haven't had to do one yet. We've been lucky so far and haven't had and VVTi motors come through with cam leaks. It's hard to say if there was any damage caused without knowing what went wrong with the initial install. I'd hang on to any paperwork from the repair just in case an issue pops up in the future.
Ya helped a lot i couldn’t find a video for this until i found yours , i hafta fix a crack in the crank case any tips or ya got a video for that???
I've never heard of anyone cracking the crankcase on a 4.7. Usually cracks in the crankcase aren't something that gets fixed, it's a replace the part kind of repair. If it is fixed it goes to a machine shop for the repair.
I have a 2007 sequoia sr5 , is it variable valve timing or is it exactly like this video? Also, do I need to replace my seals when doing my timing belt? What else do you recommend replacing when doing the timing belt replacement? Truck has 89,000 miles . Thank you.
It's close but not exactly the same. The VVTi motors get the belt removed at a different angle. You won't be able to do the cam seals since they're behind the timing actuators. You can do the crank seal if it's leaking. We do the thermostat while everything is apart. Depending on mileage you may want to do the fan bracket as well.
OTRAMM thank you. It has 89,000 miles. The crankshaft seal isn’t leaking. I don’t know if the passenger side camshaft is leaking but it might be. The driver side camshaft definitely is not leaking. I’m trying to trace a tiny leak from above the power steering pump that eventually drips onto my alternator. I think it might be the camshaft seal but I don’t know for sure. I replaced the valve cover gasket on the passenger side but it didn’t fix that leak that I mentioned it’s coming from elsewhere. Either way I have to replace timing belt and want to know what parts I should replace while I’m in there? Should I replace the tensioner, pulleys, ...etc? Is Mutsobushi any good? Aisen? Contitect?Great channel by the way.
@@ozelot250 I use the Aisin TKT021 kit. There's a link to it on our website. It's all high quality Japanese parts. Hopefully it isn't your cam seal that's leaking. From what I understand the camshaft itself has to come out to change it. I haven't had to do one yet.
Is this the same as 1998 ls400?
Does the oil need to be drained when doing the crank seal? Or, is the oil level low enough? Also, is any type of grease sufficient when installing the new seals? Thank you, sir.
The oil is below the crank. No need to drain. Most greases should be okay. I like the assembly grease since I know it's safe on the rubber.
so is the seal sealant you use just the FIPG i get at the dealership or is it a different sealant?
It's the Toyota sealer from the dealer.
@@OTRAMM and so on my 05 the cam seal is different would you suggest using any on that or not?
On the VVT motors you can't easily remove the can seal. It's several hours more work according to the manual. I've never seen one leak though.
Can you post a link to the cam pulley holder tool you use(I didn't see it in the list of tools on your website)? There are a few on amazon, none of which specifically had the 4.7 noted. Thanks and great video.
Should have mentioned, you don't want to remove the VVT-i cam pulleys. You have to pull the entire cam to change the seal as far as I know. Haven't had to do one yet.
@@OTRAMM Thanks. I have a first gen 4.7 like the one in the video, which is not VVT-i.
The one I've got is a Matco. I'm pretty sure it's the same as the Schley SP tools
Question: What is a good way to inspect the timing belt without tearing everything apart?
There's really not a good way. The belt itself usually doesn't look bad until it's waaay past due. The water pump and pulleys will show wear but you can't see them with the covers on. It's a good idea to just do it every 90k or whenever you don't know when it was done previously.
Thanks useful advice
209K original timing belt. Just getting around to it!
Great 👍🏾 class your a good teacher
Hello, so what would happen if you accidentally turn the cam wheel, is there a procedure to get it back to where it should be?
As long as the crankshaft is still at the proper position you should be fine. Just spin the cam back the way it came to line it up. Do it gently though in case there is any interference to the piston. You don't want to force anything.
@Mike Hannigan if gently doesn't work you may have a valve contacting a piston.
Did you have to drain the oil and anti-freeze coolant an order to perform this work?
No need to drain the oil. The coolant needs to be drained.
@@OTRAMM Thanks bud👍 last question.. let's just imagine the engine motor is still in the truck, what major parts would you have to remove in order to replace the seals on both cams?
@@arthurgarcia3892 I have another set of videos that shows doing it in the truck. It's the same process. Removing the radiator helps.
@@OTRAMM Thank you sensei🙏
Well done
Toyota calls the "crankshaft seal" an oil pump seal. If you order a crankshaft seal, it is too small (diameter-wise). The OE P/N for my 2004 GX470 is 90311-A0001 and the National Seal 710615 is an alternative.
Not a chance I'd ever run a national seal in there. OE only for something that takes that much work to get to.
the sealant on the cam seals is really odd. Seems like the seal isnt doing a good enough job if it needs it, but maybe im just bitter cause i didnt think of the split in the cover that it would help close up. BTW i made a little pulley holder out of the old belt bolted to a handle.
The sealer on the cams seals isn't absolutely needed. I do it as extra insurance and it makes the seals easier to press in.
What brand Cam and Crankshaft seals did you use? OEM?
Yep, we only use one gaskets and seals
@@OTRAMM Nice I thought so. Just ordered my OEM seals from Toyota and going to be watching your video again before doing my timing / water pump, seals and ect… thanks for the really helpful video.
Do you know the brand of the cam shaft seals? Is it Stone? Is this the oem brand? Thanks.
I don't think stone is OEM. I'm pretty sure OEM is NOK. I buy them from Toyota to make sure I'm getting the real deal.
@@OTRAMM thank you
Thanks man for all your videos. Great work. Isnt that a nissan patrol in the back stage there? I have a few questions about trolls if possible
Respect from tunisia
Nope, no Patrols here. Only Cruisers😁. I don't think we actually ever got the Patrol here.
@@OTRAMM thanks anyway 🙋
Do I have to completely remove the engine to replace the oil pump?
The oil pan won't fit out with the engine in and it comes off to get the oil pump off. You might be able to just lift the engine but it would be difficult to clean the seal surfaces that way.
I get it. Thank you
By the way you already have o other suscriptor
Is it the same for 3uzfe ls430 gs430? Thanks
I don't know. I haven't done one on that engine.
how much would a job like this and the whole timing kit/water pump cost?
Depends on local labor rates. We're around 1200 parts and labor if I recall correctly.
@@OTRAMM thanks! I'll watch you vids a couple more times to see if I can build enough confidence. I know I can do it but I've never done it and I don't wanna mess anything up lol I'll ask around for some prices and see what's up. Great videos btw, thank you from everyone!
How did you remove the actual gear on the crank to access the seal? And if none of the seals are leaking should I change them? 158k 2001 tundra.. thanks
It just slides off of the crank. If all the seals are dry I'd probably leave them alone.
please where is the vvti small filter located?
I'm not sure what that is.
Молодец!!!
What's oem brand for the cam seal?
I believe they're NOK but I'm not positive.
@@OTRAMM thanks
@@OTRAMM what kind of grease do you use to lube it?
@@jayinla228 engine assembly grease
How do you determine if you should replace the cam seals? I’ve got a 2001 w 150k.
We do them if there are signs of weeping. Most of the time they're dry when we pull everything down.
The amazon links are actually really good prices
Is this the 4.7 Non-VVTI engine?
Yes
@@OTRAMM Do you know what years were the non-vvti & vvti tundras?
Not sure on Tundra. I think it started in 05 for Cruisers.
Where is your shop located?
Bealeton, VA. About an hour Southwest of DC.
😊
Good video man but please don't use your hands as a hammer. Use a rubber mallet. Your hands will thank you in the long run.