Excellent! Well done with a clear build explanation. I think I will add a micro switch with a long arm in the tube to stop and start it as I have seen in other videos. This is a big thumbs up. Thanks.
@slwroln From experimenting I found that bullets tip over the best if the motor turns on and stays on for a while rather than always stop & go. That's why I went with two sensors. I tried a SPST (or SPDT) switch on the side of the clear plastic tube and found it difficult to to mount and bullets would hang up on it or wouldn't reliably depress the switch. I therefore went with the optical sensor as a switch instead. Experiment with the SPDT switch location & mount to see what works.
@jeffbowles1 I prefer a square slot to a round hole because there will only be 2 small points of contact between the bullet and the hole walls. The bullet will lie against more wall area if the hole is round and that could create more friction or reduce the tendency for the bullet to tip/fall to upright itself or get hung up when its time to fall down the drop-tube.
@bearing01 I have a drill press to drill the holes but you comment above makes a lot of sense about the friction. I can use the mortising machine in the shop to cut a square back to the slot. If I have the proper bit sizes that is. I have been thinking on this and I feel I should make separate plates for each bullet.
Thanks for all of the work you have put into this John! Kudo's to you!. I am going to build something similar for my Star sizer! Video to come I hope soon!. Thanks Again!
I know a guy who is building a BF like you and same problem. He is using the 3-12V DC (60rpm at 6V) CAT# DCM-702 from allelectronics. You want around 5rpm so I would think that means you need to run it at less than 1V. You would likely have to put resistors in series with the motor to get it to go this slow. The motor I use runs at 12V and 5rpm. It's a high speed motor which is geared down for slow speed & high torque. It draws less than 50mA (0.05A) when running. Deflinitely under 100mA
THanks so much for the video, from what i can see u made it very well and probably most inexpensive as possible, all that matters is that it works . thanks again, ill pm u with other ideas.
@mac37m1 I could not find an optical switch anywhere. I use an infrared emitter detector LED pair which is a sensor, not a switch. You then need to build a circuit that uses the sensor to detect the bullet (or case in the case feeder) and then turn on/off the motor using a transistor. I could not find the emitter/detector pair anywhere except Radio Shack, which is model 267-142 for $3.69. I plan to do an electronics video to show how to build this. /John
@bearing01 I have some material (HDPE cutting board) that is .500 thick I am using for the bottom plate with groove and plate with slots. Instead of using a bucket I am going to use a sheet of 1/8 polycarbonate and fasten it to the HDPE base. That will eliminate the need for a mirror to see when it is empty. I also have a 3/8 thick sheet of polycarbonate for the shorter bullets (maybe) if needed.
Good and informative video. I would to see a close up of your bullet flipping grove. I would like to one of these for a 40s/w with swc bullets. if I can make one the swc's then one for the round nose 9's would be no problem I made one this weekend but could not get it to flip the bullets. I need a close up of the bottom board with the grove cut in it and then with plate on also thanks
@jeffbowles1 I usually only throw in around 100 bullets or less at a time. The motor appears to have sufficient torque to turn the turn table with no issues. I cut a small washer out of a thin piece of tin (like duct-work sheet metal) and use that between the motor and the turn table and that helps reduce drag. That motor I use probably has more torque than a rotisserie. If I wanted a more powerful one I would try to use one from an electric can opener. /John
That was really neat, in fact ingenious. I was wondering if you had encountered the two problems that worry me the most. Sometimes I get a case that has the wrong primer system and it pushes the primer removing pin upwards in the die. If I do not notice then I will have a case go to the primer insertion stage with the spent primer still in. Have you considered an alarm for this? Should be an easy build. Also sometimes my Lee Loadmaster puts in a primer sideways or not at all. I have considered putting a small video camera inside the ram looking up at the powder insertion stage but have not found the right tiny camera. As it is I remove each case at that stage, turn it over and see if the primer is in right and then move on. This takes a lot time overall.
@acfixerdude I use a 12V DC wall adapter. I have a circuit to regulate the voltage down to 12V and to also power on/off the motor based on the height of bullets in the feed tube. /John
Thanks for the How To. That's funny. I just recieved my motors today. And I bought the same motor from the same place! It seens pretty powerful for $9.00. Keep up the good work and keep the videos coming. I'm thinking I might try mine with 1 SPDT switch. That way I can keep the bullet tube filled at a constant level. Do you think that's a bad idea? That seems to be the way that most retail ones are. I don't know if it's because of cost or what though. YOUR DA MAN!!!
More questions John.. How did you determine the depth of the slots that capture the bullets? I am going to attempt a universal bottom plate with groove and how did you determine that depth? Did you consider using a rounded instead of a square slot, ie:drilling a hole and then cutting from the edge to the drilled hole? I was down to making 5 slotted plates until the question of the bullet length came up. Jeff
@slwroln Let me know if you want or need to use a single optical sensor to locate at the top of the tube and have the motor always run to keep the bullet column filled to that point. I also have a circuit to do that which is much simpler (fewer components) than the one I use here. /John
@jeffbowles1 It's also more difficult to make each hole perfectly the same using a drill compared to just cutting straight lines using a jig-saw. Besides, you have to make cuts using a saw anyways after you drill the holes to make the semi-straight walls /John .
Another option would be a 24V AC 4rpm motor CAT# ACM-200 at allelectronics. Run it off a door-bell transformer. You could use a contact switch or switch it on/off with a relay. Operate the relay on/off with the electronics sensing the bullets in the tube. /John
Great Job! Can you tell me where you bought the optical switch and part number please. I would like to place the order of the motor -DCM276- and optical switch at the same time to save on shipping if you bought them from the same site AllElectronics. Thanks in advance.
Really enjoyed the video on the bullet feeder. I have a LEE PRO 1000 and use the 4-tube bullet feeder, but have the single feeder as well. This is a great idea and I must might have to see about building one myself. Thanks for sharing your video. I sub'd to your channel so I can watch the electronic part of the feeder system.
Thank you so much for all the effort and patience you put into this project and tutorial. I am in the process of building both, the case and bullet feeders. I managed to get the case feeder circuit working and am now working on sourcing parts for the bullet feeder circuit. I'm having difficulty finding the 57uF cap. Was this supposed to be a 47uF? Or should I put a 47uF and 10uF in parallel? Thanks again.Eric
@jeffbowles1 Bullets will enter the turn table upside down. You want the turn table thick enough so bullets can flip upside down without falling back inside the bucket. You want the holes not to large (wide or deep) to prevent multiple bullets falling into or getting stuck into the same hole. Multiple bullets in a hole won't permit the bullet to flip upright and will jam the table when trying to fall down the drop tube.
I have come across a question John... The motor selection, have you tired it with the tub full? How much weight?? I am concerned that the weight will be an issue and bog the small motor down.. Have given consideration to using a rotisserie motor, especially since I have one, I am sure the wife will never know it is missing..;)
John, hate to bug you, but allelectronics is no longer carrying the dcm276 or the dcm245 motors. Can you give us some idea of the specs on these motors so we can find them elsewhere? Need torque specs and amperage draw. Any help will be appreciated.
@jeffbowles1 A can opener motor runs directly on 120V and turning it on/off with my sensors & circuit board would be a very different design. AC powered motors work differently than DC powered ones and would require a different circuit. /John
@acfixerdude I tried replying to PM but there was a problem with your user name. For B/F alone a 12VDC 300mA or higher mA adapter should be fine. I use a 12VDC 1200mA Adapter to run my B/F and Case Feeder and all controlling electronics. /John
hi i was wondering if you knew where could i find a bullet feeder die for rifle bullets been searching different reloading manufacturers and cant seem to come up with one for sale i seem to drop one out of four hehe love your videos watched all of them tonight
Hi John made your case feeder works great I got hold of a star bullet sizer which works well but you have to feed the bullets nose down any ideas would be great mike
mike white I had same issue resizing bullets. I got clear solid tubing (a few pieces) and put a cotter pin in the bottom to prevent bullets from falling through. let the bullet feeder fill up the tubes. Flip the tube upside down and put it in the bullet resizer. You can pre-fill multiple tubes or let one tube fill while you're resizing with the other. /John
Finally got mine running but can’t stop bullets from getting to top of feeder what can I use to make a sweeper to keep extra bullets from riding to top and getting stuck in the bullet slots
Most expensive part was probably the metal stand. Metal was probably $20. The wood was probably $10 (with plenty left over). The motor was $10. The plastic tubing maybe $5. The electronics maybe $10. The bullet feed die is around $30. If you can find a comparable bullet feeder for sale you're looking at around $600. I've had one ordered for 223 rifle now for several months now and still no idea when it will be ready. /John
When cutting your MDF circle, why not use the bucket itself as a stencil and just draw around the bucket? Then just cut inside the line. Or if you cut the top off a bucket, use the cut off part as your circle maker.... thought I guess it's harder to find your center if you don't base the circle on the hole...
I saw your video but I didn't get any video reply request to accept your video. Please try again. In the comments section there is usually a place where you can add a video.
Sorry but I am also a very busy guy and don't have time to build another one of these. I suggest you search google for Mr. bullet feeder by Double Alpha. I recently bought one for a Dillon press and it is excellent. It is similar to the one I made last year. /John
@jeffbowles1 The groove in the bottom plate doesn't need to be deep. Maybe 1/8" or less. PM me your email address and I'll email you the schematics. In a week or so I hope to do a video reviewing the electronics and presenting & explaining the schematics. I also just finished a caliber conversion (for 40s&w) that I plan to show in an update video. I use a different bottom plate and different groove for it that I think is better. /John
@bearing01 Hi John I have decided to use the 12v motors, I have a computer power supply for a power source. I am also using a different motor, costs a couple of dollars more, but it has hardened steel gears. Could you email me the schematic for your design?? Also regarding the groove in the bottom plate, how deep roughly is this groove? Did you try a simple channel leading to the outside of the plate to guide the nose end of the bullet to lay down so it can be flipped??
I think they may have got rid of the video response thing. I just looked at one of my other videos that used to have video replies and they're now all gone. sorry.
@bearing01 Thanks John! can you PM me the electronic schematics? I need to know what else I need. I have a general idea but would like to compare on what you built and thanks again. as for the IR LED and photo transistor I will get them here at jameco.com they are about 15mins away. here are the part numbers in case some one needs it. Phototransistor IR Chip part nbr112176 LED infrared part nbr 112150
I did click video response i dont know why it did not show up in your in box I creaed one for my own video and it was in my inbox go figure hum good old you tube
Building your own home made feeder is not worth the effort. Buying it from you is a far better option. I contacted you (if you are who I think you are) and it was more than 16 weeks wait. I am still looking to buy one or two feeders (for my Dillons) if you have them. I will send you a PM. I also have videos on how to build the electronics using optical sensors if you're interested. /John
Yes I would like that John Here's my email and you can send me your. I have a few links i think you might be interested in. These are the one I found to make me start making a bullet feeder
While this is impressive and all, the truly miraculous thing is that you have the Lee Bullet Feeder actually working. That's truly amazing.
ikidd3123 lol
You are phenomenal John! 😂 A lot of engineering!
I would be interested in a more detailed video on your case feeder similar to this one. Awesome videos, and thanks for sharing.
Excellent! Well done with a clear build explanation. I think I will add a micro switch with a long arm in the tube to stop and start it as I have seen in other videos. This is a big thumbs up. Thanks.
Thank you.
@slwroln From experimenting I found that bullets tip over the best if the motor turns on and stays on for a while rather than always stop & go. That's why I went with two sensors. I tried a SPST (or SPDT) switch on the side of the clear plastic tube and found it difficult to to mount and bullets would hang up on it or wouldn't reliably depress the switch. I therefore went with the optical sensor as a switch instead. Experiment with the SPDT switch location & mount to see what works.
@jeffbowles1 I prefer a square slot to a round hole because there will only be 2 small points of contact between the bullet and the hole walls. The bullet will lie against more wall area if the hole is round and that could create more friction or reduce the tendency for the bullet to tip/fall to upright itself or get hung up when its time to fall down the drop-tube.
@bearing01 I have a drill press to drill the holes but you comment above makes a lot of sense about the friction. I can use the mortising machine in the shop to cut a square back to the slot. If I have the proper bit sizes that is. I have been thinking on this and I feel I should make separate plates for each bullet.
Great little machine you build there!
Thanks for all of the work you have put into this John! Kudo's to you!. I am going to build something similar for my Star sizer! Video to come I hope soon!.
Thanks Again!
I know a guy who is building a BF like you and same problem. He is using the 3-12V DC (60rpm at 6V) CAT# DCM-702 from allelectronics. You want around 5rpm so I would think that means you need to run it at less than 1V. You would likely have to put resistors in series with the motor to get it to go this slow. The motor I use runs at 12V and 5rpm. It's a high speed motor which is geared down for slow speed & high torque. It draws less than 50mA (0.05A) when running. Deflinitely under 100mA
THanks so much for the video, from what i can see u made it very well and probably most inexpensive as possible, all that matters is that it works . thanks again, ill pm u with other ideas.
@mac37m1 I could not find an optical switch anywhere. I use an infrared emitter detector LED pair which is a sensor, not a switch. You then need to build a circuit that uses the sensor to detect the bullet (or case in the case feeder) and then turn on/off the motor using a transistor. I could not find the emitter/detector pair anywhere except Radio Shack, which is model 267-142 for $3.69. I plan to do an electronics video to show how to build this. /John
@bearing01 I have some material (HDPE cutting board) that is .500 thick I am using for the bottom plate with groove and plate with slots. Instead of using a bucket I am going to use a sheet of 1/8 polycarbonate and fasten it to the HDPE base. That will eliminate the need for a mirror to see when it is empty. I also have a 3/8 thick sheet of polycarbonate for the shorter bullets (maybe) if needed.
Good and informative video. I would to see a close up of your bullet flipping grove.
I would like to one of these for a 40s/w with swc bullets. if I can make one the swc's then one for the round nose 9's would be no problem
I made one this weekend but could not get it to flip the bullets. I need a close up of the bottom board with the grove cut in it and then with plate on also
thanks
@jeffbowles1 I usually only throw in around 100 bullets or less at a time. The motor appears to have sufficient torque to turn the turn table with no issues. I cut a small washer out of a thin piece of tin (like duct-work sheet metal) and use that between the motor and the turn table and that helps reduce drag. That motor I use probably has more torque than a rotisserie. If I wanted a more powerful one I would try to use one from an electric can opener. /John
That was really neat, in fact ingenious. I was wondering if you had encountered the two problems that worry me the most. Sometimes I get a case that has the wrong primer system and it pushes the primer removing pin upwards in the die. If I do not notice then I will have a case go to the primer insertion stage with the spent primer still in. Have you considered an alarm for this? Should be an easy build. Also sometimes my Lee Loadmaster puts in a primer sideways or not at all. I have considered putting a small video camera inside the ram looking up at the powder insertion stage but have not found the right tiny camera. As it is I remove each case at that stage, turn it over and see if the primer is in right and then move on. This takes a lot time overall.
@acfixerdude I use a 12V DC wall adapter. I have a circuit to regulate the voltage down to 12V and to also power on/off the motor based on the height of bullets in the feed tube. /John
Thanks for the How To. That's funny. I just recieved my motors today. And I bought the same motor from the same place! It seens pretty powerful for $9.00. Keep up the good work and keep the videos coming. I'm thinking I might try mine with 1 SPDT switch. That way I can keep the bullet tube filled at a constant level. Do you think that's a bad idea? That seems to be the way that most retail ones are. I don't know if it's because of cost or what though. YOUR DA MAN!!!
All working well except my motor sucks not enough power to run it with a load of bullets in it where did u get your motor please help
More questions John..
How did you determine the depth of the slots that capture the bullets?
I am going to attempt a universal bottom plate with groove and how did you determine that depth?
Did you consider using a rounded instead of a square slot, ie:drilling a hole and then cutting from the edge to the drilled hole?
I was down to making 5 slotted plates until the question of the bullet length came up.
Jeff
@slwroln Let me know if you want or need to use a single optical sensor to locate at the top of the tube and have the motor always run to keep the bullet column filled to that point. I also have a circuit to do that which is much simpler (fewer components) than the one I use here. /John
Great system, plan on building one myself. What are you using for the motor power supply?
Thanks
@jeffbowles1 It's also more difficult to make each hole perfectly the same using a drill compared to just cutting straight lines using a jig-saw. Besides, you have to make cuts using a saw anyways after you drill the holes to make the semi-straight walls /John .
Another option would be a 24V AC 4rpm motor CAT# ACM-200 at allelectronics. Run it off a door-bell transformer. You could use a contact switch or switch it on/off with a relay. Operate the relay on/off with the electronics sensing the bullets in the tube. /John
do you have how to send the project to me to do a similar one? very good your idea
Great Job! Can you tell me where you bought the optical switch and part number please. I would like to place the order of the motor -DCM276- and optical switch at the same time to save on shipping if you bought them from the same site AllElectronics.
Thanks in advance.
Really enjoyed the video on the bullet feeder. I have a LEE PRO 1000 and use the 4-tube bullet feeder, but have the single feeder as well. This is a great idea and I must might have to see about building one myself. Thanks for sharing your video. I sub'd to your channel so I can watch the electronic part of the feeder system.
Thank you so much for all the effort and patience you put into this project and tutorial. I am in the process of building both, the case and bullet feeders. I managed to get the case feeder circuit working and am now working on sourcing parts for the bullet feeder circuit. I'm having difficulty finding the 57uF cap. Was this supposed to be a 47uF? Or should I put a 47uF and 10uF in parallel? Thanks again.Eric
@jeffbowles1 Bullets will enter the turn table upside down. You want the turn table thick enough so bullets can flip upside down without falling back inside the bucket. You want the holes not to large (wide or deep) to prevent multiple bullets falling into or getting stuck into the same hole. Multiple bullets in a hole won't permit the bullet to flip upright and will jam the table when trying to fall down the drop tube.
I have come across a question John... The motor selection, have you tired it with the tub full? How much weight?? I am concerned that the weight will be an issue and bog the small motor down.. Have given consideration to using a rotisserie motor, especially since I have one, I am sure the wife will never know it is missing..;)
Thanks John. I would really appreciate that
Amazing build. You sir are a genious! What was the total cost involved? You might have saved alot of people alot of money. Thank you.
John, hate to bug you, but allelectronics is no longer carrying the dcm276 or the dcm245 motors. Can you give us some idea of the specs on these motors so we can find them elsewhere? Need torque specs and amperage draw. Any help will be appreciated.
@jeffbowles1 A can opener motor runs directly on 120V and turning it on/off with my sensors & circuit board would be a very different design. AC powered motors work differently than DC powered ones and would require a different circuit. /John
@acfixerdude I tried replying to PM but there was a problem with your user name. For B/F alone a 12VDC 300mA or higher mA adapter should be fine. I use a 12VDC 1200mA Adapter to run my B/F and Case Feeder and all controlling electronics. /John
For the copper tubing to help with the kinking of the pipe you should fill the pipe with sand then bend the pipe.
hello, do you sell the design and measurements of the pieces via internet?
hi i was wondering if you knew where could i find a bullet feeder die for rifle bullets been searching different reloading manufacturers and cant seem to come up with one for sale i seem to drop one out of four hehe love your videos watched all of them tonight
Hi John made your case feeder works great I got hold of a star bullet sizer which works well but you have to feed the bullets nose down any ideas would be great
mike
mike white I had same issue resizing bullets. I got clear solid tubing (a few pieces) and put a cotter pin in the bottom to prevent bullets from falling through. let the bullet feeder fill up the tubes. Flip the tube upside down and put it in the bullet resizer. You can pre-fill multiple tubes or let one tube fill while you're resizing with the other. /John
Is this still up and running? If so have you made any improvements? Thanks
how did you cut the bullet groove on the plate?
Finally got mine running but can’t stop bullets from getting to top of feeder what can I use to make a sweeper to keep extra bullets from riding to top and getting stuck in the bullet slots
Use a paint brush. Find a way to clamp it to the side of the bucket. /John
Where did u get that awesome motor
Thank you I appreciate it have a great day
I am building one as we speak like yours how many cuts did u do in the bullet plate 12
Most expensive part was probably the metal stand. Metal was probably $20. The wood was probably $10 (with plenty left over). The motor was $10. The plastic tubing maybe $5. The electronics maybe $10. The bullet feed die is around $30. If you can find a comparable bullet feeder for sale you're looking at around $600. I've had one ordered for 223 rifle now for several months now and still no idea when it will be ready. /John
I have found a few offset gear drive motors at Servocity. You could also probably find what you need at dealextreme
great job man, very informative :) thanks for sharing
When cutting your MDF circle, why not use the bucket itself as a stencil and just draw around the bucket? Then just cut inside the line. Or if you cut the top off a bucket, use the cut off part as your circle maker.... thought I guess it's harder to find your center if you don't base the circle on the hole...
try the "create a video response" link, if you see one.
I saw your video but I didn't get any video reply request to accept your video. Please try again. In the comments section there is usually a place where you can add a video.
If I go that route, I will set up a dc controlled SSR, will be a simple circuit.
@slwroln I will make an electronics video for you on a single optical sensor to drive the motor. /John.
THANK YOU SIR!!! YOU ARE FREAKIN' AWESOME!!!
I can't find the dcm-276 motor. Can someone recommend a source or suitable sub?
Thanks and you're welcome. /John
Sorry but I am also a very busy guy and don't have time to build another one of these. I suggest you search google for Mr. bullet feeder by Double Alpha. I recently bought one for a Dillon press and it is excellent. It is similar to the one I made last year. /John
@jeffbowles1 The groove in the bottom plate doesn't need to be deep. Maybe 1/8" or less. PM me your email address and I'll email you the schematics. In a week or so I hope to do a video reviewing the electronics and presenting & explaining the schematics. I also just finished a caliber conversion (for 40s&w) that I plan to show in an update video. I use a different bottom plate and different groove for it that I think is better. /John
@bearing01 Hi John
I have decided to use the 12v motors, I have a computer power supply for a power source. I am also using a different motor, costs a couple of dollars more, but it has hardened steel gears.
Could you email me the schematic for your design??
Also regarding the groove in the bottom plate, how deep roughly is this groove? Did you try a simple channel leading to the outside of the plate to guide the nose end of the bullet to lay down so it can be flipped??
I think they may have got rid of the video response thing. I just looked at one of my other videos that used to have video replies and they're now all gone. sorry.
I tried to make a video response did not show up you can see my new video of (my diy bullet and shell coallators)
@jeffbowles1 Good stuff. Make it a video response to this video. Thanks for commenting. /John
Respekt 👍
@trdxyr Thanks. Yea, NRG... or Pala. /John
@anderl2 Awesome. /John
Alternative motor part number is for a Dodge A/C Temperature Door actuator motor p/n 4885206AB
Part number for motor is bad
@bearing01 Thanks John! can you PM me the electronic schematics? I need to know what else I need. I have a general idea but would like to compare on what you built and thanks again.
as for the IR LED and photo transistor I will get them here at jameco.com they are about 15mins away. here are the part numbers in case some one needs it.
Phototransistor IR Chip part nbr112176
LED infrared part nbr 112150
EMT= Extruded Metal Tube
I did click video response i dont know why it did not show up in your in box I creaed one for my own video and it was in my inbox go figure hum good old you tube
Building your own home made feeder is not worth the effort. Buying it from you is a far better option. I contacted you (if you are who I think you are) and it was more than 16 weeks wait. I am still looking to buy one or two feeders (for my Dillons) if you have them. I will send you a PM. I also have videos on how to build the electronics using optical sensors if you're interested. /John
Yes I would like that John Here's my email and you can send me your. I have a few links i think you might be interested in. These are the one I found to make me start making a bullet feeder
@mac37m1 I sent you an email. /John
I sent you a PM/IM.