Thank you Darren for your take on fuses and diodes .I feel much better .And I'll make the effort to get the 0.5 A /250 fuses .By the way , it actually GMT - 312 I bought . And in Canada this meter cost me 40$ with tax at a big box hardware store in Toronto . So it's in my interest to take care of it . Thanks again Darren ......DGR
Greetings from Ukraine! Thanks for your reviews, you are doing a great job. I would like to see a battery consumption test of a multimeters in your tests. I think it will be interesting for everyone.
Hehe..Yes the simplicity of this analog meter is probably its biggest feature! Easy to operate as you mentioned and cheap on batteries! Now if only it had an audible continuity mode! 👍
Most repairmen who aren't much educated here use analog multimeters and get their job done on major electronics and appliances. I get amazed at their experience and talent. 😁
Put the range selector in Resistance x1 Mode (OHM, Rx1). A good fuse will move the needle to zero scale all the way. A bad fuse the needle won't move at all. Btw, I'll have a multimeter how-to video coming out soon!
Forgive my lack of knowledge .But I just bought one , and while exploring it's functions , I some how blew the fuse . I have no Idea how or why .But I replaced it with what I had available .A 1.2 A /250 fuse . Also the diode protection .How do I bugger that ? And if I do ,can I repair it ? .I"ve had Meters before ,but not with fuses . Can any one answer my questions and explain ,to help me avoid future problems ? Thank you in advance ..........DGR
Worry not. Blowing a current fuse is very common, even for experts. It's always recommended to replace a blown fuse with the same value to protect your multimeter and yourself. Diode clamps are fairly robust in terms of input protection and you shouldn't need to replace.
Variations of this meter have been around since the early 80's by different brands but most often GB. I have an example at my place of work with the same type of features but no battery test. It features the same 2KΩ/V movement but does have a parallax mirror, ball bearing range selector, and the leads are fixed. All resistors are 5% carbon full sized, no SMD's It seems they have survived building it to a price and by offering popular features, surprising they didn't add a continuity mode. 💡 I think the only thing the battery is needed for is ohms.
An audible continuity mode would have been a welcome addition. These meters do seem to fill a void but really do have limited usefulness. MI too miss the parallax mirror!!
I have bad flashbacks with how this meter looks. Plenty of Chinese fakes of the Sanwas and other stuff...you should try knocking on it and see if it holds zero!
No worries, it's a Gardner Bender all the way around. Stay clear of the "SUNWA" clones as you mention 😉 this little vom has decent build quality for 20$
Hmm, not bad. But considering how affordable modern cheap DMMs are, I would probably go for digital 100% of the time. I just personally don't have the need for analogues, and DMMs should be less strenuous for the eyes. Still, that doesn't mean I don't enjoy the reviews. 👍
2:00 i own the pro's kit and the fluke 117 😁
and I use them both almost daily
That's a cool combo! 😎 👍 KeepOnTesting!
@@KeepOnTesting I will 😁
Hello Darren. Thank you for all that you are doing )
Thank-you my friend ! 👍 ❤️
Thank you Darren for your take on fuses and diodes .I feel much better .And I'll make the effort to get the 0.5 A /250 fuses .By the way , it actually GMT - 312 I bought . And in Canada this meter cost me 40$ with tax at a big box hardware store in Toronto . So it's in my interest to take care of it . Thanks again Darren ......DGR
Glad to help Dudley! Give us an update after a couple of months if you can and let me know how you're liking the meter ! 👍
did you ever have a review of a russian multimeter? If so, please write the link
Greetings from Ukraine! Thanks for your reviews, you are doing a great job. I would like to see a battery consumption test of a multimeters in your tests. I think it will be interesting for everyone.
Great suggestion! 👍Slava Ukraini!
I did 3 years of HS electronics with analog multimeters. Good training and they teach attention to detail.
Great way to learn!! 👍
Wow, first analog multimeter which I would like to buy, especially if buzzer will be added. Looks simple, reliable, with AA battery… i am in love )
Hehe..Yes the simplicity of this analog meter is probably its biggest feature! Easy to operate as you mentioned and cheap on batteries! Now if only it had an audible continuity mode! 👍
Most repairmen who aren't much educated here use analog multimeters and get their job done on major electronics and appliances. I get amazed at their experience and talent. 😁
Yea I see those needles are everywhere over there..probably less prone to other issues as well. Shows how a little can go a long way !
How do you use this to test fuses on vehicle?
Put the range selector in Resistance x1 Mode (OHM, Rx1). A good fuse will move the needle to zero scale all the way. A bad fuse the needle won't move at all. Btw, I'll have a multimeter how-to video coming out soon!
Forgive my lack of knowledge .But I just bought one , and while exploring it's functions , I some how blew the fuse . I have no Idea how or why .But I replaced it with what I had available .A 1.2 A /250 fuse . Also the diode protection .How do I bugger that ? And if I do ,can I repair it ? .I"ve had Meters before ,but not with fuses . Can any one answer my questions and explain ,to help me avoid future problems ? Thank you in advance ..........DGR
Worry not. Blowing a current fuse is very common, even for experts. It's always recommended to replace a blown fuse with the same value to protect your multimeter and yourself. Diode clamps are fairly robust in terms of input protection and you shouldn't need to replace.
needle ,oh its Classic ..but i like how Hioki needle move and stop . btw another good video Darren .😊
Cheers my friend! Hioki is hard to beat!
Variations of this meter have been around since the early 80's by different brands but most often GB. I have an example at my place of work with the same type of features but no battery test. It features the same 2KΩ/V movement but does have a parallax mirror, ball bearing range selector, and the leads are fixed. All resistors are 5% carbon full sized, no SMD's
It seems they have survived building it to a price and by offering popular features, surprising they didn't add a continuity mode. 💡 I think the only thing the battery is needed for is ohms.
An audible continuity mode would have been a welcome addition. These meters do seem to fill a void but really do have limited usefulness. MI too miss the parallax mirror!!
The oldies used 9v batts😮
Yes so true, they were also more functional, this is really bare bones. 👍
These old analogs are neat but now im all addicted to digitals--lol
Ok Mike, 👌 I hear ya..digital multimeters have all of the fun ! 😀
I have bad flashbacks with how this meter looks. Plenty of Chinese fakes of the Sanwas and other stuff...you should try knocking on it and see if it holds zero!
No worries, it's a Gardner Bender all the way around. Stay clear of the "SUNWA" clones as you mention 😉 this little vom has decent build quality for 20$
Hmm, not bad. But considering how affordable modern cheap DMMs are, I would probably go for digital 100% of the time. I just personally don't have the need for analogues, and DMMs should be less strenuous for the eyes. Still, that doesn't mean I don't enjoy the reviews. 👍
Not everyone's flavor that's for sure.😊
I blew the fuse because I didn't realize my outlet was flipped 💀
@@Urza_Nightacalla Ouch!
😮😊
😊