DIY gear hobbing attachment for milling machine (part 1)
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 19 มิ.ย. 2021
- This is an attachment I built for my manual milling machine to be able to make gears faster and more easily. It can cut spur gears and helical gears.
Music used in this video: 'Industry' by 'E-Shine' eshine.bandcamp.com/music - วิทยาศาสตร์และเทคโนโลยี
Finally a machinist channel not using stupid inches
Not too often do I happen to find a new (to me) channel that absolutely amazes me - this is one of those! The care that is clearly put into every shot, camera angle, or animation to carry out some important point is truly impressive!
Well, thanks for the appreciation! 😁
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Just found your channel. Nice to see a UK channel for once doing this stuff well.
25.025 is very, very precise.
The lack of run-out throughout is almost unsettling..) That's a well dialed home lathe.. Great work!)
So very awesome and precision!
Loving the sonar ping for xray view!!!
Great job!
Keep em coming!!!!
It's a real joy to watch a professional at work,
Keep up the good work.
So much work went into those parts. Respect 👍
You are strong . Cutting metal without power tools. Salute
Excellent video thank you, heaps of operations I've never seen before in practice.
Awesome, looking forward to the second part 👍
Always excellent, very enjoyable and instructive-excited to see part 2 Thank You Very Much ✅👍
Gotta respect this dude
This was very interesting! I did not know I wanted to see this until you made this video. It is highly awesome you have the knowledge and attention to make your own machines. Love your Terminator build and now I know how you make the tools you have to accomplish this.
Fascinating! Thank you so much for sharing your knowledge and experience. I learned a lot. Gears, I love the technology.
Wow…. So inspiring. Thanks for taking us along on the ride and show us all that is possible. 👍👍😎👍👍. I NEED to watch more of your content. 😉. This channel should have many more subscribers. I did my part just now - I’ve subscribed and turned the bell on. 😊
Wow! Really impressive build Andy! You've made me want to build my own. Cheers, Morgan
If you make a lot of gears, this way is so much better!
@@AndysMachines Richard Gere (read gear) would be proud.
Great work. Very interested in seeing the completed project.
Great video and AndyMachines understand what so many youtubers do not. You did not put background music on. Seems so simple but so many others fail so badly and put on loud stupid/offensive music when they should not.
Yes, I learnt that lesson a long time ago, whatever music you use won't be to everybody's taste.
Just found your channel. Excellent stuff - interesting projects, well explained, graphics really helpful. I'm hooked. Thank you.
Thanks for posting this excellent video. Looking forward to the follow-up video.
Hi Andy. Some impressive heavy(ish) and precision work there. Well done.
Regards Mark in the UK
Thanks! Not really all that heavy, though reaching the limits of some of my tools, particularly the lathe steady rest which really won't go any bigger. Because this is a machine that will be making parts for other machines, I'm trying to make it as accurate as I can so I don't have errors stacking up on top of each other. 🇬🇧
An excellent video. About 2 minutes into it I realized I had put everything else aside and was giving it my undivided attention.
I'm looking forward to part 2, and have subscribed.
Glad you liked it! Part 2 coming very soon...
Well done, you made some very fine parts.
Very good video on a very interesting topic. Can't wait for the next episode.
Really nice work for accurate gear cutting tool using different sizes n ratio
The x-ray view was cool!!
Outstanding video. Loved the x-ray demo. Can't wait for for next episode.
You should consider adding trepanning to your skill set. The next time you want to cut a round round out of rectangular piece of material it is a lot faster, easier, and leaves a much better surface finish that is concentric to the rest of the part. If you are concerned about the inner part falling out at the end consider leaving a thin web at the end of the cut.
Yes, I sometimes trepan thin material on the lathe, but these plates are 20mm thick (~3/4") which would need a very long thin trepanning tool. I suppose I could cut from both sides though. Any time I want to remove a lot of material quickly my first thought is usually some method of sawing it off.
@@AndysMachines Hi Andy, Thanks for the reply. However, thickness of material does not limit trepanning. It is a great way to remove material. You clearly have the ability to grind trepanning tools. It is a lot like grinding a boring tool that creates shank clearance on both sides of the cut (similar to a hole saw creates a curf wide enough to allow the body of the saw to follow the teeth down the hole). It is not difficult if you understand the geometry and the clearances necessary to manage your chips without hitting the stock on the inside or outside during the cut. I encourage you to look into it.
Regarding your comment on sawing off the material, the way you did it in the video created a situation where you had to deal with an interrupted cut on the lathe when you cleaned up the OD of the part. Interrupted cuts are always time consuming and can damage your cutter if you take too deep of a cut or use too high of a rotational speed. If you insist on using your band saw to cut off the square edges of a "round" part then you should consider going to a more narrow blade on your band saw. With a narrow blade you can scroll around the inner part and minimize the stock left for later removal. Once you get used to this you will minimize (or possibly eliminate) the interrupted cut and material removal.
Hope you are not offended by my comments but I am just trying to help you. I have over 50 years of prototyping experience and figuring out how to make things. It is hard to go away from old habits (especially in matters of things you have figured out for yourself). However, the faster you get at doing things the more magical things you will create. Any you are a very creative guy. I have a couple of other simple suggestions for you but this is getting petty long so I will make another comment after a while.
Cheers,
R J
@@rjserra5535 Not offended at all! Thanks for taking the time to write such a long comment and share your knowledge.
I have ground trepanning tools in the past by hand from HSS blanks, I usually made them fairly short as that's all I needed and I found making longer ones more time consuming and the tool itself becomes more fragile with length.
I don't actually have a bandsaw now (have owned several in the past), so I often go for the quick and dirty 'lop off the corners with a hacksaw and true it up on the lathe.' An irregularly shaped blank does take longer, but I generally use HSS tooling on the lathe so the interrupted cut is not really a problem.
Happy to hear any other suggestions!
Superb machining skills. Superb video too. I feel a bit cheeky for asking, given how good this was, but would be nice if you narrated it - you know - why you made certain choices, what pitfalls you had/avoided etc. But I'll be more than happy just to see it in action on the next one. Thanks for sharing!
Thanks! It's hard to know what level of detail to go into with narration, captions etc. I assume that anybody watching a video like this would already have a fair amount of engineering knowledge. I don't want to make the videos too long by explaining every little thing, people can always ask in the comments if anything's not clear.
Excellent work! I was surprised to see that you don't use any cooling.
Just discovered your channel. Love it!
Now, that was a great video, thanks so much. Can’t wait for the next one.
Thanks! Here's the next one: th-cam.com/video/VJOem40ggkI/w-d-xo.html
This channel is impressive!!! Great work!!!
Yessssss...........last time I cut some gears was 15 years ago.....still nice to have a dividing head to do all that.......at the time I used a hand ground fly cutter to get the gear cutter profile.......just too many gear profiles and sizes to lay out for a couple of sets of gear cutters......and a hob does the job in one hit after you gash the teeth.
Actually with a powered hobbing spindle you don't even need to gash the gear blank, you only need to do that if 'free hobbing' (and even then you can still end up with the wrong number of teeth!)
@@AndysMachines 1
Nice craftsmanship!
Well I guess I'll be building a hobbing attachment in the future. Thanks for extending my ever growing project list!... ;-) Subbed.
Beautiful machining. A+ work
Thank you very much!
Awesome work Mr. 👍.
Nice job 👍
Super project! Thanks for sharing!
Thanks for watching!
Your video popped up in a sub-feed from a mini lathe video. Overall great video. Would you try to keep the sound of the machine noises at or below your level of speech loudness? I had to repeatedly adjust the volume.
Thank you for sharing this wonderfully inexpensive modification!
Great engineering and good watch! Cheers
Beautiful work, thank you!!
Very nice. Thank you. I usually just skip to the end on Build videos to see the final product, but your editing of the video was so well done that I watched every minute.
Question: Instead of cutting the corners off the flat stock with a hacksaw at 5:00, and then later spending a great deal of time removing the rest of the stock in the lathe at 8:50, why not use the rotary table and a small roughing end mill to do the job? I find this work well.
Thanks again. Looking forward to part 2
I'm glad you liked the video! Yes, the rotary table is just as good a way of doing this, though personally I only tend to do that when I don't want a full circle (such as when I rounded off the corners of the frame). I roughly knocked the corners off first just so I could centre the part in the 3-jaw on my rotary table (with shims and moving the chuck on the table) to cut the T-slots. I left the final finishing of the faceplate until everything else was welded, bored etc. in case there was any movement.
I used to run two cinninati hobbing machines 8 hours a day 6 days a week. Fun wow
First time on this channel, instant subscribe. You do very nice work.
Thank you very much!
Very good job man love u from India Punjab Amritsar sport Indian farmer
I've heard hobs mentioned but i could never picture how they would work. Until this video...Cheers ta. If
Yes, looking at one you would assume it cuts just the profile of it's teeth, but it actually takes many small cuts to produce curved gear teeth.
Very much enjoyed this.
I am building the 1/10 scale Wilfred Heckert Lanz Bulldog Flammenfresser, and boy do I need to make a lot of gears!!
Thanks for giving some ideas for my project
This is fantastic!
Это просто шикарно !! Золотые руки !!! Начало - нарезание эвольвентного профиля с помощью сегментной фрезы и методом обкатки инструментальной рейкой (прямой зуб).
Nice work! 👍
Excellent .
amazing vid!looks very promising,going to watch the others too!
I had hope when I saw the "Toolzone indicator" thinking I can afford this hobby, then you brought out the "mitutoyo micrometer"😂.
Cool I never seen gears cut like that, thanks for the education, please include more explanation of why you are doing operations and which order for beginners like me. Thanks
Yes, I only have one Mitutoyo and it's 0-25mm but it will actually measure slightly over that, which can be very useful in situations like this. Fortunately I rarely need to measure things bigger than 25mm to 1 micron accuracy.
get yourself a mister. Use the expensive synthetic stuff and use it very sparingly with high air flow about 35 - 40 PSI. It'll improve finishes enormously because it'll blow chips away keeping you from recutting them. It'll also extend tool life and allow you to increase speeds and feeds markedly. For that T slot I'd use a flood.
I was concerned about a mister in a small shop. But the synthetic stuff is non toxic and I use so little.
Thanks a lot for the video! 👏👏👏👏👏👏👍👍👍👍
Remarkable work and great editing. Truly a pleasure to watch. I am curious about the ratio of (1) the time spent planning to (2) the time spent in set up to (3) the time spent cutting.
Thanks! Time spent cutting (per gear) is probably the least. Setting up is really just like tramming a vice, though I may have to do both the hobbing attachment and the mill head. Planning and preparing the blanks etc. can vary wildly though often it's just some simple arithmetic in my head and turning a piece of bar on the lathe.
Excellent! The commitment , precision nice , specially your mini lathe do fantastic , share us where to get for the mini lathe . Thanks
Awesome work! Although it was painful to watch you hacksaw the corners off that plate, lol, been there and it's not fun.
Wonderfully done and some great effects.
I love this video so much
Excellent work
Excellent 👌. Thank you 😀.
Thank you 😀.
Have you ever used a spiral point tap they cut so much nicer than those raspy straight flute taps.
What I really would like to know is how it is that you get the spindle and your machine on the same page.
Hi, Andy, I have been a long standing admirer of your most excellent efforts and I must have watched this video and part two at least ten times. Being a well seasoned retired pensioner I now find myself with countless hours of time to put some of my misspent skills to a use. One thing I would love to make is a Hobbing Attachment like this. Did you ever publish any drawings for this? If so can I beg, borrow, barter or at the outset buy?
Once again I congratulate you on your knowledge and skills and your unselfish way in which you share your your knowledge with the rest of the World. - Thank You.
Thanks Keith for the comment, I didn't actually produce drawings for the attachment as none of the dimensions are critical. You can alter the design to better suit your own needs or make use of whatever materials you have to hand. If you only want to cut spur gears (rather than helicals) then the attachment doesn't need to tilt and can be much simper. All you really need is a shaft rotating between two fixed bearings that you can attach a pulley and stepper motor to.
you are fighter. Great jop
This is fascinating, I've always wondered if this could be done in a home shop :-)
Should you ever be interested in selling plans, I'm sure you would have some takers!
Nice work
Thanks for sharing!
Nice. Roll on part 2!
Here it is!: th-cam.com/video/VJOem40ggkI/w-d-xo.html
in this world we have two sorts of constructors The one use the machine for development some idea in real life And a second developing machine for them.
You do some really nice work. I’m really impressed. But I’m surprised that you don’t seem to use any machine coolant or even thread cutting compound such as Trefolex. We always used both. The surface finish on threads in steel for instance is greatly affected by tapping dry. Brass is a different story, but we would have been seriously reprimanded for going in without Trefolex. You can imagine the jokes that went along with this rule.
Thanks! As for the coolant, I can see I'm going to have to get a mister and have it visible in every shot, I seem to get this comment a lot! I DO use cutting oil, even flood coolant, but I generally don't show the application of it (though you can see it's there) and I don't use flood coolant in the videos as it would obscure what's going on. Maybe I don't use as much cutting oil as some machinists or reapply it as frequently, and I don't use it for everything, but yes, always when tapping steel.
Very nice work
8:41 It must be very handy having a lathe with a crossfade control!
Yes, it speeds jobs up immensely! 😁
So impressive. Seeing machinists at work has me looking any machined part, however mundane, and thinking about the machine time needed to make it. Or in the days before CNC, what complex jigs or human effort was needed to machine the parts that went into a car, a jet, or any machine
Oh, it was nothing, everything just came naturally, I always thought about how long it took, how much skill and hard work was done to get to where we are in this day and age.
Just some constructive criticism from my perspective: I would enjoy more explanation throughout the process. Instead of just machine noises, and an occasional brief pop-up description. I'd enjoy learning why you're doing, how your doing, what lead you to those decisions, etc.
Thank you, very interesting though; gear hobbing is something I really want to get into.
Yes, I know what you mean. It's hard to know what level of detail to go into sometimes and I don't want to make the video too long and boring.
I'm going to be doing some follow up videos related to gear hobbing where I'll focus more closely on different elements with more detailed explanations, calculations, etc...
Wow mind blown.
Nice video, thanks :)
Thank you i learned from you sam jenny
Really nice!
Thanks for the great topic ne
Excellent project!
You might get this question often: how would you cut gears without the mill spindle being able to tilt?
I think I did get this question from somebody who had a mill with a head that didn't tilt. You can't just tilt the work spindle an additional angle to compensate, since the feed direction must be parallel to the teeth. If you used a large diameter hob with very small teeth and hence a very small helical angle then you could probably get away with not tilting the head (the clearance angle ground on the teeth would be greater than the error, so the teeth would still cut without rubbing)
Greater job sir
Sure your parts look nice, but your dial indicator is obviously broken. It should be flopping wildly, like mine does.
Next time you hole saw a hole... scratch the surface with the hole saw, then drill a hole tangent to the scratch mark. This hole allows chips to fall out of the cut and prevents chip packing in your hole saw gullets. You'll cut faster and with less heat giving you years more with your expensive, carbide tipped hole saws
Good tip! I always do this with wood and it cuts much faster (usually 2 holes on opposite sides). With steel I tend pull the saw out frequently to clear the chips and add more cutting oil.
You do beautiful work. Only thing I would advise is when milling I would blow some air or better some coolant mist to clear the chips. You are forcing your cutter to recut some chips. I think that's kind of hard on it.
Thanks!
I generally don't use compressed air on the mill to avoid blowing chips everywhere (I only have a small workshop). I sometimes use a small paintbrush to wipe them away and I usually do a light climb cut for the finishing pass to avoid recutting chips.
@@AndysMachines it does make a mess. I mostly cut stainless in my job. I started getting a lot less damage on my end mill flutes after I started using air to blow chips away from the cut. Air plus some cutting oil mist or flood gives a much better surface finish on stainless when milling a slot. So much difference I couldn't believe it the first time.
Perfect job my friend.....can you give us a link with wiring diagram and program for arduino?
Just found this channel, you are a really clever engineer, great video, I'll shall be checking out your other videos. One question, I did an engineering apprenticeship 25 years ago and HSS lathe turning tools were old technology then. Is there a reason you still use them? I only do a bit of machining at home now but use only insert tools as HSS is far to slow for me. Again super video!
Thanks! Yes, I do use carbide insert tooling as well, but I've just always used HSS and I like how I can quickly grind any shape tool I need. Also my lathe is only a small bench-top model, it doesn't have the power for really heavy cuts.
AndysMachines thanks for the response and fair comment. HSS still has its place for sure. The hobbing attachment is beautifully made love how you did the scribed degree graduations and etched the numbers. The video has inspired and opened new opportunities through watching it, just shows what you can still do with manual machines at home if your clever enough.
Great video thank you
a great and informative video. do you provide plans for your gear Hobbing attachment
I haven't drawn actual blueprints, there's enough info in the video to be able to reproduce it, it doesn't have to be exactly the same, you can modify the design to suit your own application.
Thanks, looks serious
just beautiful dood. well over 20 minutes and the best i will spend today!! i love the lathe tool that did much of the turning, it seems to be have two sets of super imposed geometry? also i am curious, at 5:25 you use a dti fixed to the mill with the finger on the bore of the work, which you then spin and show the clock not moving (so nice!), are you checking conecntricity of said bore or are you checking the work is centred under the spindle of the mill? if the later then please can you explain your procedure here? fair play with the hack and hole saws...i know those jobs! cheers again and look forward very much to watching the rest.
Thanks! Not sure which lathe cutter you mean, but with the dti I'm centring the workpiece on the rotary table by using shims on the jaws of the 3-jaw chuck and also tapping the chuck around on the table (the workpiece is a rough octagon at this point). This is so I can cut the t-slots accurately, it's not critical to have them centred but I wanted to do a good job of it.
Found your channel. Fulsupport po sayo.pagpalain ka
Very well done. Just wondering why you don't use carbide insert tooling on the lathe
Thanks! Actually I do use carbide sometimes, I just prefer HSS on my small lathe.
It's amazing. Are you using one of the CAD software for your projects?
I do design things in CAD, though rarely the whole machine, just the parts that I need to calculate some values for, or if I want to play around with the design to help me visualise it. I use Vectric and Turbocad packages. I did try Fusion 360 but didn't like it.
Dear Andy, I did cut a worm gear for my Crouzet Vallence TC125 lathe and documented this for a TH-cam Video which I want to post on my channel. Since Your video on gear hobbing helped me a lot, I would like to include two short screenshots each of around 8 second from Your video in mine. I would also link to Your video in the description. I would like to get Your allowance before posting my video. Thank You very much, Greetings, Eckart
Yes that's fine, I've no problem with you doing this, thanks for asking first! It might get flagged automatically by TH-cam as a copyright breach, but if it does I'll approve it's use. (Though normally short clips that are relevant to your video are allowed).
@@AndysMachines: Thank You very much for Your allowance. I just published the video and hope it is helpful for users of my old french lathe type...
well done , now is for action
Obviously you built a CNC hob fixture. Which means you need a hob cutting tool. Something if DYI starting as a ACME threaded with the proper profile for the gear be it 14.5, 20, or some special pressure angle degrees and the other features like root dimensions. Then cut to produce teeth and hardened. Is the hob made or purchased?
I have both hobs I bought and ones I made, I've built up quite a collection over the years. I make them from O1 tool steel (drill rod). Screwcut, then teeth cut in the mill, hardened and tempered. My homemade ones don't have the full relief on the teeth the commercial ones have, but they seem to cut just as well (use plenty of cutting oil). it's useful to be able to make custom hobs for things like splines and toothed pulleys, not just gears.