Am 72 an still learning. Did this work at 20 but was never taught as clear as this. Amazing what proper tutors can make such a difference to young persons careers. Love the practical setup to gain on hands experience and interact with everyone. The foundation is the key to any training and electrical work is no different. It stays with you for ever. Notice that the majority are very clear in their grasp of the subject matter which is just brilliant.
13 & 14 is called a _latching_ contact. It _latches_ in the coil, which when broken (by the stop button) stays de-energized. The analogy is a door latch. It is for_control_ purpose only, rather than the other contacts which carry current.
Planning to get into Electrical Engineering training later in life and find your videos very informative and helpful. Thanks very much for all you're doing to help people learn.👍🏿👍🏿
Thank you for spending your time and helping thousands of learners! I'm not sure if you have any other video where you explain what type of motors DOL starters are designed for? DC /AC and what DOL for? Would be good to hear it from you..
Always Enjoying learning from your valuable videos or let’s say Educational videos . Thank you but I hope you can explain how to work and wiring heating system Y & S plan and combi boiler. Thank you again ❤️
Gaz, you are one amazing bloke. I like the way you present people, yourself, and the work you are talking about. Kudos to you Sir. Even when you make a sharp exit from the start lol
@@millomweb Rated was 6.8 amps iirc. This fan is pulling through a filter that will get clogged with paint, will put a clamp on it and see what it pulls when the filter is full.
@@mrblack61 Now you have a choice ! If the fan still freely rotates, a fully clogged filter will not overload the fan. I suspect stopping the airflow will actually take load off the fan as it 'sucks' reducing air density and therefore less air to move = lighter load. It's why vacuum cleaners speed up if the pipe's blocked. My motor suggestion would be to set the overload to 6A. If in the unlikely event low airflow does increase load on the fan, measure current with free air flow and again with restricted airflow. If you find that with free air flow you get 4A and with blocked yo get 5A, set the trip for 4A if you want the fan motor to stop to let you know the filter needs cleaning !
New friend is here sir...sending my full support. Thnk you for your video tutorial. I learned a lot for this kind of very informative vlog. More power to your channel sir. Godbless.
No, don't set the overloads at the running current of the motor. Set the overload setting to the full load motor current, that will be displayed on the motor nameplate. The motor current can change for a number of reasons. The number of times I have attended to motor trip fault, only to find the overload set way below the rated full load current of the motor.
Thank you for pointing this out as I was wondering about the FLA. Is there a way to find out what the FLA of motor is, please. Thanks for your help in advance.
Brilliant video. Could you recommend best practice for wiring a safety cut out switch into the contactor, which will cause the motor to cut out or not start when door is open.
Thanks for explaining it with clear diagram easy to understand.I hv a question "Is it necessary to loop the neutral line or it can be taken directly without into and taken out from the contactor"
This is for a 120v circuit with a neutral wire. I'm building a rotary 3 phase converter. It has two 120v lines going to 1 and 3, there is no neutral wire (I looped a wire out of 4 and connected it to 5 as you did in the video). For the Start/Stop circuit, do I use the 120v wire in 3 the same way you wired the neutral wire in the video? Basically, my question is can the 120v wire in 3 be connected to A2, or do I need to run a seperate neutral wire from the main panel and connect it to A2?
I worked in a hotel as a shift Engineer and what really confused me was not the contactor but rather the keycard for lighting circuit. I tried to work out where this keycard for light was connected? Was it connected right in the middle of the contactor cable circuit. If you can make a video it would be great.
So, would I be right in saying, the auxiliary wiring doesn’t require over current protection in this case? Is there a regulation to support this? Is there ever a scenario where the aux wiring should be fused down? Great video as always guys👍
@@millomweb ABSOLUTELY, however it's very common on smaller starters to have no fuse, since the control wiring will match the supply wiring for cross section and current carrying capacity. All the wiring inside the starter is usually matched conductor size to the motor supply cable. once you are over a 3kw motor then the control wiring maybe smaller and a seperate control fuse is a good addition. I would also recommend a fuse should the control wiring be exported out of the DOL cabinet (ie remote start stop station or emergency stop enclosure) this wiring would need its own protection too.
@@reallytalltom1712 A fuse protects all wiring including the contactor coil. I don't see a great value in protecting copper wiring - it's not an expensive item. Main point of fuse is to prevent electrical fires - it doesn't take much to burn out windings - our first central heating pump burnt itself out one morning (jammed with sludge - so no coolant flow) We replaced it and found it was satisfactory on its slowest speed - a power consumption rate insufficient to burn that one out when it jammed. The pump was replaced, flushed out and is ready to replace its replacement if the same thing happens again ! So, for the contactor coil, it should have an mcb rated for the full load current of the coil. Then, say the coil energised and the armature failed to move, thus overloading the coil, the MCB could trip the power to protect the coil (in cases where the coil is held powered remotely). Maybe that's the reason they're not fused - if the contactor doesn't work, the coil won't remain powered !
NO contacts normally take a last digit of 3 and 4, NC contacts take a 1 and 2 as the last digit from my experience. That control circuit with the hold would be fused or protected via mcb or whatever.
Regarding the reduction in cable size for the auxiliary circuit, I know it is the done thing but is they a specific reg that allows the smaller conductor size without fusing down
Another great presentation. Quick question: if the load requires a cable with a csa larger than the control wiring, how then do we provide overcurrent protection for the control wiring? We can't have say a 32 amp mcb - required for load - protecting the 1mm control cables. Thanks.
Well done i like yo vidios Do for me a forward reverse motor contral circuit En star delta motor contra circuits with their number terminal as you did on this vidii
I don’t get how 13 and 14 stay latched together pardon my stupidity!? You press start button to connect circuit to eventually engage A1 coil. But as start switch doesn’t hold in how does coil remain in and keep all poles of contractor engaged for 13 and 14? Hope this makes sense. Thanks
Not latching - presumably closing when the green is pressed but not staying down ? Could be: 1. Latching contacts not closing to complete the circuit 2. Latching circuit wire fallen out of terminal or broken.
Hi sir , I installed the system the same way. I wanted to test before connecting to the board. Contactor - Thermal(5.5-8A) I set it to 5.5 amps. I connected a heater as a load. Although it draws 10 amps, the thermal did not throw. what would be the reason. (Could it be because it is an ohmic circuit)
One question I can't find an answer on - amperage to/from the start/stop buttons (and in between multiple buttons) so I can determine wire size. I have a magnetic starter on a jointer and another mag starter for a dust collector. Both are 240v motors (5HP and 3HP). The sole reason for a mag switch on the dust collector is so I can wire multiple start/stop stations around my garage. I used 18 AWG copper wire on the jointer, the switches are only a 1/2 meter or so from the mag starter. On the dust collector, wiring 4 start/stop stations around my garage will probably take 20-25 meters of wire. Am I still ok using 18 AWG copper wire or should it be heavier?
Simple enough to do. Start buttons are wired in parallel to the existing start button and stop buttons are wired in series with the existing stop button.
I guess they'll close with quite a bang ! A DOL starter will be used on any size motor where the full power of the motor is required at start up. Compressors are one example.
A good video and informative though a little out of date. Many modern contactor and overload are internally connected 95 to A2 thus the live and neutral have to be wired accordingly. In practice the live is fed through the contactor spare contacts to minimise impromptu RCD operation.
I bought one 6 months ago. The overload was bought separately - to ensure I gone one of the correct range. So not pre-wired. The contactor came with some internal wiring. I removed that as I've used non-standard wiring to make the green button override the overload.
It's pretty much the same ! L1-3 on terminals 1,3,5 and three wires out from 2,4,6. If the contactor coil is 400-415 volt, connect the control circuit across any 2 of the phases. If the contactor coil is 230V you'll need a neutral running to the coil and take power from any phase. This is really where the 4th contact (13-14) is really needed !
Great video, really helped get the methology into my head. Thanks. I have a query though. I am wanting to connect a 3hp motor to DOL. The motor requires a 40uf start capacitor and an additional 40uf run capacitor. How do i connect a DOL which allows the additional temporary switching for the 40uf start capacitor? Is the a DOL available which can do this as single unit?
If you want to connect indicators, it depends what you want them to indicate. 1. You could connect a bulb across the coil (A1 & A2) to show when the contactor was energised 2. You could connect across terminals 1 and 3 to indicate when the contactor has a power supply 3. You could connect to 2 and 4 to show when the output in live. 4. You could connect across the overload (96 and 95) this would then indicate the overload was still in the tripped state while the green button was being pressed.
at 9 minutes ish, the start button is above the stop button. my issue with this (and experience ) is that the stop button is often a mechanically latching mushroom button. You would think this would render the drive inoperative. the problem is this. With the stop button actuated , it is still possible to pulse the drive on the start button.It simply wont latch in. NOT SAFE!!! by simply wiring the stop button contacts in front of the start button contacts, should the stop button be actuated. the start button then becomes totally isolated. no oppurtunity to start the drive AT ALL. This applies to 3 phase and 1 phase starter wiring.
You say its a single phase instalation so the contactor coil has to be 230v, WHY???? It could quite well be controlled by another source, such as on a cnc machine where all the control circuits are low voltage DC commonly 24v. It also seems loke Joe already knows more than Matt does, as he is constantly prompting Matt to give answers to things he should have already explained. I would suggest you review this video and edit it to be logical to a layman, which is what I suppose you intended. By the way Matt, I am glad I didn't have you as a teacher when I trained, you have the typical format of knowing it all but unable to tell it in a logical way. It brings to mind the old anology, can't do it then teach it.
Linking across as shown in the video is pointless. If you linked 3 to 5 (and 2 to 4) you'd double the overload trip rating - and it too would be pointless.
Single Phase Direct Online Starter DOL Adding Remote Stop Start Buttons Wiring Diagram Explained
th-cam.com/video/Shs9lTnZVCU/w-d-xo.html
Am 72 an still learning. Did this work at 20 but was never taught as clear as this. Amazing what proper tutors can make such a difference to young persons careers. Love the practical setup to gain on hands experience and interact with everyone. The foundation is the key to any training and electrical work is no different. It stays with you for ever. Notice that the majority are very clear in their grasp of the subject matter which is just brilliant.
Great work by joe also asking questions learners would ask
Been a while since I had to wire up a DOL. I had to put one in for my in-laws belt sander, I can confirm this video has indeed been some help👍🏻
😃👍🏻
Excellent way of teaching very good thanks
Brilliant presentation, really well explained 👍
13 & 14 is called a _latching_ contact. It _latches_ in the coil, which when broken (by the stop button) stays de-energized. The analogy is a door latch. It is for_control_ purpose only, rather than the other contacts which carry current.
Planning to get into Electrical Engineering training later in life and find your videos very informative and helpful. Thanks very much for all you're doing to help people learn.👍🏿👍🏿
This video is excellent
Well laid out with great explainations!
Well done
and
Thank you
Thanks for watching and the great comment
excellent presentation and explication. thanksfor taking the time to record this
Thank you for spending your time and helping thousands of learners!
I'm not sure if you have any other video where you explain what type of motors DOL starters are designed for? DC /AC and what DOL for?
Would be good to hear it from you..
We have more videos to come on motor starting in the coming weeks and months. Thanks for the kind words. Gaz
You can use them for any motor or even any electrical device. They're just basically a fancy switch.
Always Enjoying learning from your valuable videos or let’s say Educational videos . Thank you but I hope you can explain how to work and wiring heating system Y & S plan and combi boiler. Thank you again ❤️
Gaz, you are one amazing bloke. I like the way you present people, yourself, and the work you are talking about. Kudos to you Sir. Even when you make a sharp exit from the start lol
Thanks 😊
He buggers off and the nonsense starts flowing ;)
Cheers guys, this video has helped me understand DOL starters, my extractor fan is now wired up properly 8)
What current did you set the overload ?
@@millomweb Just over rated, 7amps iirc
@@mrblack61 That seems a lot ! Better to go less than more - so if full load current is 5 A, set the overload for 4.
@@millomweb Rated was 6.8 amps iirc. This fan is pulling through a filter that will get clogged with paint, will put a clamp on it and see what it pulls when the filter is full.
@@mrblack61 Now you have a choice ! If the fan still freely rotates, a fully clogged filter will not overload the fan. I suspect stopping the airflow will actually take load off the fan as it 'sucks' reducing air density and therefore less air to move = lighter load. It's why vacuum cleaners speed up if the pipe's blocked.
My motor suggestion would be to set the overload to 6A.
If in the unlikely event low airflow does increase load on the fan, measure current with free air flow and again with restricted airflow. If you find that with free air flow you get 4A and with blocked yo get 5A, set the trip for 4A if you want the fan motor to stop to let you know the filter needs cleaning !
Excellent presentation, thank you.
Very easy explanation, you make difficult subject easy to understand. Nice job Joe
I mostly deal with 3 phase motors and love the Idea of looping the neutral for a single phase motor.
Thanks so much! Very clear explanation!
Thanks 👍🏻
New friend is here sir...sending my full support. Thnk you for your video tutorial. I learned a lot for this kind of very informative vlog. More power to your channel sir. Godbless.
Your very welcome 👍🏻
Good explaination. Thanks.
👍🏻
Fantastic, more videos the better 😃❤
We have more to come 🦾
Awesome work
Thanks 👍🏻
Thanks for information sir🥰
Great video 👍
No, don't set the overloads at the running current of the motor. Set the overload setting to the full load motor current, that will be displayed on the motor nameplate. The motor current can change for a number of reasons. The number of times I have attended to motor trip fault, only to find the overload set way below the rated full load current of the motor.
Thank you for pointing this out as I was wondering about the FLA.
Is there a way to find out what the FLA of motor is, please.
Thanks for your help in advance.
Good one guys.. need more like these.. Can you do a 3 phase reverse forward motor circuit. Or if you've done one already share the link.
Judging by the lack of a reply, that's far too complicated for them :) You could use a '3-way' (UK) light switch :)
Brilliant video. Could you recommend best practice for wiring a safety cut out switch into the contactor, which will cause the motor to cut out or not start when door is open.
so how does it work without the contactor and thanks for the presentation
THANK YOU
👍🏻
Thanks for explaining it with clear diagram easy to understand.I hv a question "Is it necessary to loop the neutral line or it can be taken directly without into and taken out from the contactor"
The neutral need not go through the contactor at all BUT a neutral will be needed for the contactor's coil.
What is the best way to use timer to energize coil of the contactor .. do you have wiring explanation please?
Hi. Would you able to show us how to test 3 phase motor? thank you.
This is for a 120v circuit with a neutral wire. I'm building a rotary 3 phase converter. It has two 120v lines going to 1 and 3, there is no neutral wire (I looped a wire out of 4 and connected it to 5 as you did in the video).
For the Start/Stop circuit, do I use the 120v wire in 3 the same way you wired the neutral wire in the video?
Basically, my question is can the 120v wire in 3 be connected to A2, or do I need to run a seperate neutral wire from the main panel and connect it to A2?
Can you guys do a diagram with a DOL starter single phase with the coil controlled by a flop switch to pull in the motor
Thanks
In the case of connection, will the green button start the machine?
I worked in a hotel as a shift Engineer and what really confused me was not the contactor but rather the keycard for lighting circuit. I tried to work out where this keycard for light was connected? Was it connected right in the middle of the contactor cable circuit. If you can make a video it would be great.
So, would I be right in saying, the auxiliary wiring doesn’t require over current protection in this case? Is there a regulation to support this? Is there ever a scenario where the aux wiring should be fused down? Great video as always guys👍
I think that's the most intelligent question I've seen in the comments. I think a 1A in-line fuse would be a useful solution.
@@millomweb ABSOLUTELY, however it's very common on smaller starters to have no fuse, since the control wiring will match the supply wiring for cross section and current carrying capacity. All the wiring inside the starter is usually matched conductor size to the motor supply cable. once you are over a 3kw motor then the control wiring maybe smaller and a seperate control fuse is a good addition. I would also recommend a fuse should the control wiring be exported out of the DOL cabinet (ie remote start stop station or emergency stop enclosure) this wiring would need its own protection too.
@@reallytalltom1712 A fuse protects all wiring including the contactor coil. I don't see a great value in protecting copper wiring - it's not an expensive item. Main point of fuse is to prevent electrical fires - it doesn't take much to burn out windings - our first central heating pump burnt itself out one morning (jammed with sludge - so no coolant flow) We replaced it and found it was satisfactory on its slowest speed - a power consumption rate insufficient to burn that one out when it jammed. The pump was replaced, flushed out and is ready to replace its replacement if the same thing happens again !
So, for the contactor coil, it should have an mcb rated for the full load current of the coil. Then, say the coil energised and the armature failed to move, thus overloading the coil, the MCB could trip the power to protect the coil (in cases where the coil is held powered remotely).
Maybe that's the reason they're not fused - if the contactor doesn't work, the coil won't remain powered !
NO contacts normally take a last digit of 3 and 4, NC contacts take a 1 and 2 as the last digit from my experience. That control circuit with the hold would be fused or protected via mcb or whatever.
I've never yet seen a fuse in the control circuit !
Regarding the reduction in cable size for the auxiliary circuit, I know it is the done thing but is they a specific reg that allows the smaller conductor size without fusing down
Another great presentation. Quick question: if the load requires a cable with a csa larger than the control wiring, how then do we provide overcurrent protection for the control wiring? We can't have say a 32 amp mcb - required for load - protecting the 1mm control cables. Thanks.
Hi, you could have the control wiring fed from a separate circuit say a 6 amp mcb instead of being looped over like in the video.
Awesome video, could you please direct me to the follow up video to this? Remote Start/Stop. Thanks
I still need to make a few public 👍🏻
Motors, Starters, Controls, Remote Stop Start th-cam.com/play/PL2Ea5r9gxUUfv51Ld1UlNGR39rfFIExTU.html
Great video 👍and sometimes we see coil of the contactor have the letters C1 and C2 , not A1 and A2 what that means?
Contactor 1 (C1) Contactor 2(C2)..To depict number of contactor's used in the circuit..
@@biladice2979 The 'C' stands for Coil.
Thank you guys very clear, especially with explanations on the flow of current. That made it very clear for me. From now on Im your new subscriber
Thanks for watching and the subscription
what about 2 phase connections l1&l2 both 110v supply
Well done i like yo vidios
Do for me a forward reverse motor contral circuit
En star delta motor contra circuits with their number terminal as you did on this vidii
I don’t get how 13 and 14 stay latched together pardon my stupidity!?
You press start button to connect circuit to eventually engage A1 coil. But as start switch doesn’t hold in how does coil remain in and keep all poles of contractor engaged for 13 and 14? Hope this makes sense. Thanks
Is there any chance of a troubleshooting video specifically aimed at DOL starter? Specifically How to troubleshoot a DOL not latching
Not latching - presumably closing when the green is pressed but not staying down ? Could be:
1. Latching contacts not closing to complete the circuit
2. Latching circuit wire fallen out of terminal or broken.
Hi,
Reall y good tutorials. Preparing for my AM2. Is the remote start allowed as you've wired it that way? 0.27secs
Hi sir , I installed the system the same way. I wanted to test before connecting to the board. Contactor - Thermal(5.5-8A) I set it to 5.5 amps. I connected a heater as a load. Although it draws 10 amps, the thermal did not throw. what would be the reason. (Could it be because it is an ohmic circuit)
Any reason for not mentioning that the start button is latched through 17 and 18?
via 13 and 14 sorry
Is it follow on video available that was mention at the end? I cannot find it.
It will be available soon 👍
One question I can't find an answer on - amperage to/from the start/stop buttons (and in between multiple buttons) so I can determine wire size. I have a magnetic starter on a jointer and another mag starter for a dust collector. Both are 240v motors (5HP and 3HP). The sole reason for a mag switch on the dust collector is so I can wire multiple start/stop stations around my garage.
I used 18 AWG copper wire on the jointer, the switches are only a 1/2 meter or so from the mag starter.
On the dust collector, wiring 4 start/stop stations around my garage will probably take 20-25 meters of wire. Am I still ok using 18 AWG copper wire or should it be heavier?
Assume 1A - so lighting circuit wire will do.
Any videos on star delta start?
Or soft start?
Cheers 🍻 🥂
Thanks 👍
There are on TH-cam !
Excuse me, how single phase motor start up without the capacitor by DOL?
Can you do without auxiliary connection for no.3,5,13to A2
There are a few ways to wire these up. Only one way was shown.
When the coil energizes,the contact at 96 and 95 becomes open?
Coil/contactor does not affect any contacts in the overload.
Great video! Do you guys plan on expanding this with the remote stop/start? Thanks.
Simple enough to do. Start buttons are wired in parallel to the existing start button and stop buttons are wired in series with the existing stop button.
We still have 185kw 415v DOL starters. They make some noise when they start lol!
I guess they'll close with quite a bang !
A DOL starter will be used on any size motor where the full power of the motor is required at start up. Compressors are one example.
need requirements for registration and cost please
A good video and informative though a little out of date. Many modern contactor and overload are internally connected 95 to A2 thus the live and neutral have to be wired accordingly. In practice the live is fed through the contactor spare contacts to minimise impromptu RCD operation.
Typical colleges behind industry - this video aids an assessment my learners need to carry out. Thanks for commenting and watching. Gaz
I bought one 6 months ago. The overload was bought separately - to ensure I gone one of the correct range. So not pre-wired.
The contactor came with some internal wiring. I removed that as I've used non-standard wiring to make the green button override the overload.
Can you do tutorial for a 3 PH DOL??
I have made such a video but I haven’t released it yet 👍🏻
It's pretty much the same ! L1-3 on terminals 1,3,5 and three wires out from 2,4,6.
If the contactor coil is 400-415 volt, connect the control circuit across any 2 of the phases.
If the contactor coil is 230V you'll need a neutral running to the coil and take power from any phase. This is really where the 4th contact (13-14) is really needed !
Should he not have wired through the stop button first?
As long as one is in the circuit, it doesn't really matter where t is.
Where does the little red cable go?????!!!!!!!
Great video, really helped get the methology into my head. Thanks. I have a query though. I am wanting to connect a 3hp motor to DOL. The motor requires a 40uf start capacitor and an additional 40uf run capacitor. How do i connect a DOL which allows the additional temporary switching for the 40uf start capacitor? Is the a DOL available which can do this as single unit?
Forgot to add.. motor is 240v.
Start run switching is usually done within the motor and not by the starter. So just connect motor to starter as normal.
How can we connect indicators on the same diagram
If you want to connect indicators, it depends what you want them to indicate.
1. You could connect a bulb across the coil (A1 & A2) to show when the contactor was energised
2. You could connect across terminals 1 and 3 to indicate when the contactor has a power supply
3. You could connect to 2 and 4 to show when the output in live.
4. You could connect across the overload (96 and 95) this would then indicate the overload was still in the tripped state while the green button was being pressed.
at 9 minutes ish, the start button is above the stop button. my issue with this (and experience ) is that the stop button is often a mechanically latching mushroom button. You would think this would render the drive inoperative. the problem is this. With the stop button actuated , it is still possible to pulse the drive on the start button.It simply wont latch in. NOT SAFE!!!
by simply wiring the stop button contacts in front of the start button contacts, should the stop button be actuated. the start button then becomes totally isolated. no oppurtunity to start the drive AT ALL.
This applies to 3 phase and 1 phase starter wiring.
Allow me to download
You say its a single phase instalation so the contactor coil has to be 230v, WHY???? It could quite well be controlled by another source, such as on a cnc machine where all the control circuits are low voltage DC commonly 24v. It also seems loke Joe already knows more than Matt does, as he is constantly prompting Matt to give answers to things he should have already explained. I would suggest you review this video and edit it to be logical to a layman, which is what I suppose you intended. By the way Matt, I am glad I didn't have you as a teacher when I trained, you have the typical format of knowing it all but unable to tell it in a logical way. It brings to mind the old anology, can't do it then teach it.
Why not just link out the neutral from 3 to 5?
Linking across as shown in the video is pointless.
If you linked 3 to 5 (and 2 to 4) you'd double the overload trip rating - and it too would be pointless.
Gaz, where have your diagonal facial caterpillars gone ???
😁
Gets technical - Gaz vanished quick 🚤💨
🤣 100% (I was the camera man)
GSH has transformed FE learning for electrical students and is an amazing Guy. Keep up the great work Gaz 👍
@@GSHElectrical So, you've grown a third leg then have you ;)
Safety first - keep away from sparkies when they're working ;)
Wìring diagram lines should stand out more obvious.
Just a small question - what is the numbering for the NC stop button here?
Isn't 95 96 will become open when energized? therefore will break the circuit?
Nicely explained
good video, thanks for sharing!
thanks