How To Install 100 Electrical Outlets FAST! - INSPECTION FAIL Using These Outlets
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 26 ก.ค. 2024
- In this video I show you how to install 100 outlets fast. I show how to install tamper resistant outlets using a screw driver and impact driver. It is a code violation in my area to not use tamper resistant outlets. I would fail inspection if I did not use TR outlets. Enjoy!
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Timestamps
Intro 00:00
TR Outlets explained 00:47
TWR Outlets explained 02:36
How to carry multiple outlets 03:29
How to efficiently install an outlet with a screw driver 05:27
How to efficiently install an outlet with an impact driver 10:27
Outro 14:07
Disclaimer: This video is all based on my personal opinion and is for entertainment purposes ONLY. I am not a financial advisor, CPA, attorney, tax advisor, electrician, plumber, housing contractor, designer, or any type of profession to give advice. I am just a consumer sharing my experiences and research. If you do need knowledge for those types of things, I will advise you to seek help for those professionals. - แนวปฏิบัติและการใช้ชีวิต
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I’m a journeyman electrician in the IBEW. I started in 1985 as a 1st year apprentice.
That said, one of the FIRST things I learned was to always hook up the GROUND and/or NEUTRAL FIRST. Electricity wants to return to the best “ground” it can find, so when working on circuitry, you ALWAYS treat the wires as if they were “LIVE”.
The logic is that you don’t want to touch the “hot” wire until your neutral and ground are hooked up in case something goes wrong. YOU don’t want to become the ground and you also don’t want to somehow become a conductor by being between the 2 hanging neutrals.
It’s literally Electrician 101
✊🏿
Right, without a way for the electricity to complete the circuit the breaker and other safety mechanisms won't have an opportunity to work. :)
Yes hot wire should be first disconnected and last reconnected
ditto, Ground 1st neutral 2nd hot is always last.,. and remember Black to brass or it will cook your a$$ 😎
"Electricity wants to return to the best “ground” it can find," I'm really reluctant to use this terminology because it's too close the fallacy "Electricity always takes the path of least resistance to ground". This is dangerous and adds to the idea that grounds are for keeping people from being electrocuted... I much prefer "Electricity takes every path available to make a circuit. Make sure its the safe/right one."
@@NickFrom1228 Nicely spoken!
50 years as an IBEW apprenticeship trained electrician, now retired, I learned it was much better to "pigtail" hots and neutrals and not rely on the outlet for circuit continuity. Had to trouble shoot to many open circuits in my career, mostly loose connections at outlets. (Loose screws) Always made connections ground first, then neutral and "hot" last.
in chicago, it's illegal to use the outlet as part of the circuit. you gotta pigtail.
It is illegal all over the USA its in NEC not to wire it this way. You tube should take this video down immediately.
Local #3 NYC since 1986. Thank you for mentioning the pigtail. That was the point where i stopped watching.
@@alonzocalleros please tell what article in the NEC you are referring to. I will wait. You wont find one it is not in there.
i have had more problems with people trying to put three wires in wire nut and not twisting them correctly than a loose screw on a quality backwire outlet that clamps the wires down securely the same as a circuit breaker
It's always better practice (you should make it a habit) to connect ground first then NEUTRAL and last hot. Any electrician would tell you that. 😉
Explainion please. I see no advantage.
@@91156 When wiring outlets, you should always connect the ground (Green or copper) wire first to protect in case of surge or someone accidentally energize or connect power then you have some protection, second should be connected is neutral (white). Lastly is your hot (black). It is the regular practice of most if not all electricians. It is just a better safer practice.
@@91156
I’m a journeyman electrician in the IBEW. I started in 1985 as a 1st year apprentice. That said, one of the FIRST things I learned was to always hook up the GROUND and/or NEUTRAL FIRST. Electricity wants to return to the best “ground” it can find, so when working on circuitry, you ALWAYS treat the wires as if they were “LIVE”. The logic is that you don’t want to touch the “hot” wire until your neutral and ground are hooked up in case something goes wrong. YOU don’t want to become the ground and you also don’t want to somehow become a conductor by being between the 2 hanging neutrals. It’s literally Electrician 101
✊🏿
@Mark Williams I was always taught to act as if the wire was hot even if it wasent. Did a job years ago at a trucking company on 480 v lights, had the breakers tagged out and someone from there company came ripped them out and turned breakers on.
A good electrician will always check the wiring making sure it’s not hot before they attempt to do anything with it. As long as you know there no power to the wires it doesn’t matter which wires you connect first. Not that it’s a bad idea to go ahead and still hook the wires up with the ground first and neutral second then the black wires. I’m not a electrician by any means, but being a old timer contractor I have hooked up more plug ins in my day then I could ever count? I wouldn’t recommend anyone else to do this, but I actually rarely turn off the power to a plug in to replace it. Just got to be sure you keep your wires separated at all times and make sure where your holding your plug in to avoid getting zapped! LOL it’s a attention grabber when you do get zapped too! I have a really high thresholds for electricity and always have. Doesn’t hurt just scares the beegeebees out of ya for that brief second. But that’s only cause I’m not getting the full shock of the electricity since the ground already connected and I’m not standing in any puddles of water. Otherwise the shock is a lot worse! Not a safe practice to not turn power off, but after 30 years of changing plug ins it’s no big deal for me to leave the power on and I haven’t been zapped in decades. But there’s still always a chance I could be! Do it at your own risk, if your brave and possibly a little on the crazy side? Like me! LOL electricity is dangerous, don’t take it too lightly. I had a very good friend that was a electrician and a good one too! But he was working on a transformer for a food company I won’t mention their name. The transformer blow up for some unknown reason and burned 98% of my friend’s body actually burned the clothes right off of him. Didn’t kill him right away, surgeon’s did a great job at healing his burns from the outside. But the electricity cooked his insides and they were never able to heal his internal organs where he be able to survive without a machine keeping him alive. He himself made the decision to have the plug pulled and end his suffering. So electricity is no joke! If you don’t know what your doing leave it to the professionals. Even though things can still go wrong when it’s a professional doing the wiring too! I’ve seen professionals wire lights wrong and the homeowner got badly electrocuted when he was on a ladder in his garage changing a florescent light bulb. He touched the light fixture while touching a metal trust in the garage and the electricity shot directly thru his body knocking him across the garage a good 20 ft from where he was on the ladder at and the electricity shattered his shoulder disabling him for life. Homeowner got a huge settlement out of the electrical company, but he much rather kept the use of his shoulder and not have to live in pain the rest of his life! Electricity vary scary and 110 volts is the most dangerous to work with being it doesn’t have a pulsating current like 220 volts or higher volts does. You grab 110 volts and get the full electrical shock you can not let go cause the electricity makes your muscles contract where you can’t let go. Had a guy where I use to work pick up two osculating sanders at the same time. The explorer wired the plug in himself wrong and cause a direct short that when the employee grabbed both metal sanders the electricity made a direct contact going thru his body from one sander to the next sander and he literally couldn’t let go. Another employee grabbed the long extension cord and ripped it out of the ceiling to save the guy. But the guy that grabbed the extension cord was lucky he didn’t get shocked too! Best to shut power off at the electrical box if at all possible! The guy that got shocked did survive, but he wasn’t able to move his limbs for several hours from the electricity going thru his muscles. He eventually recovered though and had no other issues from being electrocuted thankfully! Be careful with your electrical. Even if you don’t get hurt yourself, do something wrong and someone else may pay the price getting hurt!
You are a really good instructor. I call my wife “plug” because she has terrible sinus issues that result in a plug in the right nostril. Sometimes when she breaths thru her nose it makes a high pitched whistle noise which attracts all the neighborhood dogs in the trailer park we live at. Anyways, I just wanted to say keep the videos coming!
BABABOOEY 🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣 My God, you must be old! 🤣🤣🤣🤣
When i did my house (around 60 outlets), i used a roll around mechanics seat with the tray on the bottom. Worked great! My floor was concrete BTW.
I did the same. Concrete downstairs and Advantech OSB subfloor upstairs. I did all the outlets before the finished floor was down though. I kept my tools on the tray. and had outlets and plates in a plastic tote.
my mechanic seat was a bit high i actually used a good furniture dolly with kneeling pad on top of it so it was lower to floor
The bucket he used was fine, someone sells an actual cushion seat that fits the bucket
I think its a better practice to pigtail your circuit because continuity of the circuit shouldn't be dependent on the device. Meaning of something happens to that receptacle the other receptacles won't work downstream. Also, a plug tester is a better way to line up your plug without risking bending the yoke with pliers.
The device connected as shown is legal and if tight it is a good connection. It saves time, money, and less fill in the box. I have seen issues when push in connected devices were used. All GFCI's are connected like this as well.
You lost me after pigtail….
If you have a problem with one device the circuit needs to be shut off anyway, and problem repair, so that throw that idea out the window. The first thing I tell a customer is shut off the breaker.
I have responded like you have many times before. Pigtails with wire nuts, twist first, cut flush then wire nut. Then tape to cover screws. I usually do 1 1/2 wraps with one layer on neutral side, 2 on hot. Why tape on plastic box??? Once I put duct tape over drywall & outlet to cover a defective outlet. A 2 year old pulled off the tape and took the plate with it! Even with nylon plates, one screw not enough, so I use decora tamper resistant.
I agree with pigtail but if i have to do a lot of receptacle i always use the terminal to tap the wires. Its just a lot faster.
A couple comments on the outlet installation. 1) Connect the ground first, then the neutral wires, and finally the hot wires. That way, if power is accidentally on, there is some protection. 2) Although it doesn't matter electrically which of the two white or black wires go on which screw, it's a good idea for future maintenance to have wires entering the box from the electric panel side on the bottom screws and those exiting the box on the top screws (some local codes require this). 3) Finally, orient the screw holding the cover so that the slot always goes straight up and down or horizontally ... not required by code but the homeowner will like that all the outlets look the same.
I'm not sure what your idea of protection is, but that order puts the installer at greater risk of electrical shock. I hold the device by the frame (good habit) and connect the neutral wire first, hot second and the ground last. My logic is if the ckt. is live and I make contact with the hot wire while connecting it, I might get a little shock through my shoes (if I'm on a cement slab) but it will be a much stronger shock if I have a firm grip on the grounded frame of the receptacle. Connecting the ground wire first will also make the installer vulnerable to electrical shock even if he's on a pier and beam floor, therefore not grounded through his feet. To me, that is a good reason to connect the ground last. I don't know about receptacles, but in a disconnect, the hot wires are always supposed to be on top. In a new house, unless you mark it on the rough-in, there is no quick and easy way to determine line in from line out in a receptacle box and I'm not aware of any NEC specification on that. I am curious though, what a city with such a code would require if there are 2 lines out and what would they say about pig-tailing?
Great video, I’ve always taught my guys to install all switch or receptacle cover screws with the slot perfectly up and down. Especially in new construction. It just looks more professional. Yes, it’s only cosmetic but I’m OCD and I hate walking into a unit and the plate screws are all different ways. I feel like I’m cross eyed🤣I always preach about the small
Details being so important! The large things are easy to do but it’s the final details that make the difference!
Thanks for the video.
Hey Indy! That is definitely a OCD thing that most people would never notice. It’s a good idea though! Thanks for watching!
Absolutely! You would be surprised how many customers have complimented us because of this , straight saying if we pay attention to such little details as this, we must do good work too. And we do, however, because of this got more work from these customers. Plus it does look lazy & sloppy when screws are in all different directions
Many years ago I got called back. Was told ALL the outlets were incorrect. When I got there he said the screws were not perpendicular. I was so f***ing pissed! I straightened them all and now I actually do that automatically. Haha
@@TheExcellentLaborer not an ocd thing, but a professional thing.
@The Excellent Laborer I would say not an ocd thing. This is how I was taught and how other electricians I have worked with in past 20 years try and do as well. Especially when ya working In super high dollar accounts customers and most time foremans will agree
Very clear video, and John Doe adds some more info. we all learn something new every day. No doubt that you get suggestions on how to do it better all the time, but you simply showed one practice of installing outlets, that DOES pass inspection!
I've always gone around and put a receptacle and cover at each location instead of carrying them around with me. Everybody has their own system. Nice video!
th-cam.com/video/dpHHhrkM9fQ/w-d-xo.html
Mark Nicholson I said same thing, as I always do as you saying also. Prepping is #1 in efficiency.
I think putting on the ground first then the neutral then the hot is a lot simpler but that’s just me. 🤷♂️.
Thanks for the video
Thanks Robert! I appreciate your input. Thanks for watching!
This is exactly how I do it :)
Its suppose to be ground, neutral, hot and then the reverse when taking it out especially if you work alive
That’s how I do it as well. Technically I guess shouldn’t really matter because the power should be off on that circuit, but I’d heard it as a suggested practice because then if there is power for some reason, it has a path to ground other than your body.
All good points....I always start with the ground first, then neutral then common, what is the way I was taught 51 years ago! I always use the impact to mount outlets in boxes, screwing with a hand screwdriver and my arthritis don't mix well. Do this work while your young lad, you will grow old some day! Most times, better to pigtail your circuit can continue without depending on a device.
Always liked using the square drive for the ability to get a solid torque. In our area, the wires have to be pig tailed, but that's why checking with codes is important to also make sure if tamper resistant are required or not. Also, always make sure that the outlets are rated based on wire size. 15 amp or 20 amp. I see so many home owners change outlets with a 15 amp rated on #12 wire. Again, always check codes and ratings. We also have many older houses with aluminum wire which needs to have outlets and switches rated for aluminum.
One thing I always have done is make my screws on my covers be vertical to give it a cleaner look and always know if I had to check something out if someone might have removed the cover for some reason. Not necessary a code, just a personal thing.
Thank you for this informative video.
Hey David! Yes checking local building codes is the key to a successful DIY job. It changes county to county as you know. I’ve had a lot of people mention service loops on my videos but it is not something that is required in my area. Yes Square Drive his definitely the way to go. Philips is fine but the Square Drive gives a better bite. I appreciate your knowledge in the comments. Thanks again!
@@TheExcellentLaborer I always appreciate your input on everything you share. I always want home owners to understand the importance of what they do, should always be aware of the codes and asking the right questions. It's important to keep safety first. Any little mishap can create a problem and I only hope no injury to anyone or anything.
Thank you again for sharing your passion in what you do. 👍🏻
15 amp duplex receptacles are rated for 20 amp pass through and are code compliant for 20 amp circuits with 12 gauge wire. You just can't use a 20 amp receptacle on a 15 amp circuit.
@@surferdude642 I understand that but codes are different in many areas. Normal practice is safer. Have seen jobs with issues at certain levels.
Agree, but I believe code states that a 15 amp "duplex" outlets can be used on 12awg 20 circuit. Although I would not.
I like Eaton outlets with wire clamps. The only wire wrapped around is the ground, everything else is straight in and screw clamped, nearly as fast as push in but tighter.
Awesome video bro! Been following you for a while now and you’ve really helped me build my shed home cabin. I really appreciate you my friend! GOD bless you always!
I appreciate that David! I’m so glad I could help you get your project done. God bless you too!
I like to use a Tidy Cat litter box bucket as a seat because it has a hinge door on top and I put my garbage in there as I go around the house. You could also use a 4 inch hole saw and cut a hole in the side of the bucket for garbage.
You make great videos, simply to the point.
I like using hand screw drivers myself, feeling the torque is important.
Thank you Lou! I’ll try to keep them simple for everyone to understand. Even people that has not done construction before. Thanks for watching!
Same, but I drag along the impact to mount the recept to the box.
If you're interested in speed wiring. you can prepare each outlet by connecting a single ground, neutral, and hot wire to it's respective terminal, and then attach a two-port lever Wago to ground and a three port lever Wago's to neutral and hot, (this can be bench work, done in advance during down time.) Then just attach the wires coming out of the wall to the wago's, fold back into the outlet, secure outlet and wall plate. You get advantage of pig tail, and plus speed of installation. (p.s if you want the leads from outlet can be stranded, thus easier to fold back into the wall)
Wago 222’s are great. Good suggestion.
If your boss is willing to foot the bill for those. And yes, I know they're not even that much more than wire nuts.
Personally I snug everything down with the impact, but always do a pass by hand with a screwdriver. 1) my hands cramp easily and this saves wear and tear and 2)I think it's faster overall, while still having the peace of mind that I know every screw is tight(plus impact tends to cam out bits of you really go ham, causing unnecessary damage. )
This is what I did as an apprentice I started out on residential constructions and while my journeyman was wrapping up the rough in he would have me go through make up every box by creating pigtails for each conductor it speeds up the trim out process and is good practice
Are the lever wagos better than the stab-in wagos? Do they have sufficient surface contact to carry a whole 15 or 20 amp circuit? The stab-ins are much like stab-lock plugs installed in the 80s & 90s. They eventually started to fail. Now the stab-locks on receptacles only accept 14 AWG. The old ones also accepted 12 AWG. I always use only the screws. That little break-away tab between the screws rarely fails. I haven't looked closely at the lever wagos.
On the new constitution clean-up side of this. I appreciate you! In the past I have found that there are very few who clean up after themselves!!!
I’m a firm believer in a clean organized job site. I hate working around a mess. So I try not to create one! Thanks for watching Cheryl!
A neat job site shows care and professional at work. Thank you
th-cam.com/video/dpHHhrkM9fQ/w-d-xo.html
Most electricians don't clean up after themselves that's a laborers job but I sweep up after myself
Tamper resistant outlets are cool and all, but I've found they can be a little difficult to just plug in a simple cord.
agreed...
I agree with you. They seem to have gotten better every time. It is code unfortunately. Thanks for watching!
Passed an inspection today without tr outlets
@@_r.t- Apparently not required in your area.
@@haphartmann3394 I'm glad. They are a pain in the a$$.
Don't forget the 'pigtails ', as having worked as an electrician for years, it's always good to pigtail all connections where the circuits are daisy chained. In a lot of service calls, found cheap outlets would fail and half the circuit is dead, because your relying on the connections on the outlet/receptacle to pass current through to the other circuits, by pigtailing the wires, if the outlet/receptacle fails, you don't have half the house/circuit dead, and it makes it easier to troubleshoot the problem, usually contacts in the outlet are worn out, and some inspectors want pigtails installed on all outlets! Great video
I caught that too and I'm not an electrician. Yikes. Don't teach wrong ways.
Not an electrician here, but I always pigtail connections now after I got zapped by a neutral wire that was not pigtailed to a receptacle. The house I was working on was built in 1966 and had shared neutrals, and when I used a non contact voltage tester to make sure power was off to said receptacle the tester confirmed no power. When removing the old wires, I removed both hot wires first, then removed first neutral and all was good until I touched the other neutral screw and I got zapped. Why? Because the second neutral wire was going to another receptacle that was powered by a different breaker, and the voltage from that powered circuit was going back to the panel on the neutral that was now on the receptacle in my hand. Once I removed the first neutral wire, I took the path to the panel away, and I became the return. If the wires had been pigtailed, then the neutral connection to the panel would still have been preserved and I would not have been part of the circuit. Lesson learned- yes you can get zapped by a neutral wire, and I always pigtail connections in the receptacle box.
I had an older electrician show me exactly the way you're doing it and I have been doing it that way for the last 15-20 years. The one thing I noticed is you didn't do what we call "arrows"? That is to make sure that your screw slot is perfectly vertical or horizontal whichever way you prefer. I do verticals. Reason why I like that is it allows you to know if that receptacle has ever been touched after you've done the original installation. It also looks nice and neat!
Horizontal is for the degenerates. Vertical is the only way
I was helping my kids do updates and they wanted to know if vertical plate screws were required
I do that with the screws as well. You notice things like that and it shows you take pride in your work
I agree, I always connect ground first. Its easier and you dont risk damage to the other wire connections by twisting them around, back and forth.
I’m a novice compared to you. I love your channel and have subscribed. You explain everything really well with visual demonstration. It’s how I learn so I thank you for that.
In doing some research on installing these receptacles, I have learned the best practice is to always install the ground wire before you install the neutral. Neutral should be installed secondly followed by the line or hot wire. It may be a matter of preference but I think it make sense to bond the receptacle to help protect you as you install the receptacle. I
Informative as always
Thanks for watching and commenting! It helps a lot. Take care🔨
Very nice and clear explained 👌
Thank you!
Not bad.
Grounding, Grounded, Phase. Always in that order. Two reasons. First, safer if some idiot has flipped the breaker, second, good routine makes for better installations.
I torque to specs. Most people don't realize how low those are : 14-18 inch pounds.
I wrap twice with electrical tape, fold gently as Josh did and the rest was fine. I do always leave the slot on the exposed screws vertical, just something we learned as apprentices a millions years back.
Very good job my friend, God bless you
Thank you Noah! I appreciate you watching in common. God bless you too!
Can't wait to be an apprentice looks like it will be a blast.
excellent and thorough video Josh. thank you
Great content and well presented. Thank you!
Legend! Tnx man. I'm considering building my own place in a get years so loading up on knowledge from guys like you! Very thorough and simple steps. Appreciate the vids! Subscribed and 👍 👍 keep it up amigo🙌😁
Pro advice. Thanks
Great video. Greetings from Colombia.
Suggestions.
For speed, use backwire. Not the backstab spring type, backwire clamp type.
Use pigtails.
Order: Ground, neutral, lastly hot. This means, order in the box and order of connection.
Other thoughts:
1. Whoever roughed those boxes in should be slapped silly. Way too deep.
2. You can use an impact with clutch to avoid stripping out the terminal.
3. It's hard to tell but the ground crimp doesn't look crimped. Can't say for sure but it just looks flattened and not actually crimped.
4. The receptacle is being supported by the drywall so effectively there is not box for nearly half inch. I can't recall the code but I believe technically this requires a box extender to be code. Can someone clarify? I'm a bit rusty on the particulars.
Pigtails aren't necessary and slow you down.
@@jwil4905 Incorrect. By code you cannot use a device as a splicing method for your neutral conductors. You must pigtail. See 300.13(B). Although, it only matters if enforced by your local jurisdiction. The code is only a guide, your inspector decides what is right and wrong.
@@TwilightxKnight13 Never enforced or even considered here. Even the inspectors know it's wasted effort.
Another item to use for ordinary duplex outlets is device that has two sets of prongs to fit the duplex they are great for pulling existing outlets out of the outlet box and installing them back in and twisting them to make them align with the walls they have two lights to show if the outlet is hot or not of course test them everytime to make sure they are working just as you do with a no contact tester
Excellent video
Thanks Ben!
I love your videos you always make sure to show every way to do something even if it ain't your favorite way awesome man keep up the hard work 👍
Thank you so much for the aha moment.. awesome video. You made it so easy. I'm working on my garage and need to add more outlets and a couple light switches. Thanks again for your help!
You are welcome! I’m glad you were able to find what you were looking for with this video. Be sure to subscribe for more to come!
@@TheExcellentLaborer already subscribed... 👍
A Locked and LOADed Tool Belt - Love it! A great idea for the Alpha to Omega of this one. -- *A CLEAN Job Site - - is Always a Happy (AND SAFE!) Job site.*
I use a small 4 volt rechargeable lithium battery screw driver with a magnetic slide tip to get screws tight - then *always* finish connections with manual hand driven flat bladed screw driver -- *especially for homes near railroad tracks!!* -- It works *great* on the long screws holding the receptacle in place, is not cumbersome like a driver gun and holds its power for quite a while and can recharge back up in little time. It also works great for door knobs with the slide, so nothing gets scratched and can really torque in a sheet rock screw when needed.
Since I do a lot more "old work" it comes in handy when wires are in short (and or in metal boxes!) that need grounding when I am out of ground clips and love always have a stock of 2-3-4 push fit wire connectors to extend or connect wires in a tight box..
The TR Outlets also help with energy savings in that cold air does not infiltrate the living areas as readily through the box!
In my jurisdiction we have to add AFCI to any and all circuit work where ALL circuits must be labelled on the panel for new construction - I always update where involved in old work. My buddy who only does electrical uses his impact driver - in addition to 2 speeds, he has a slow start, low and high setting on the torqueing of his tool, which works like a charm with his duty.
So YeAH (LoL): *"Black to Brass - - or - - it will cook your ass!"* - Funny, yet AC can run an appliance run backwards (out of phase) where it will also wear your appliance out - or worse!
DiGGs the needle nose trick! Like nails on a chalk board - I hate seeing an outlet tweaked on install - to me it means someone was in a hurry or didn't care -- and yeah the buckit trick works great!!
Awesomeness - as all~wayz.
Hey C Kuiper! All the circuits are arc fault as well as GFI protected for some circuits. Some circuits are just arc fault. It all depends on the application of the circuit. I did not think about TR outlets being energy efficient. That is a very good point that most people do not think about. The holes in the outlet are closed off so air is less likely to flow through them. Yes the impact driver I think is fine and tightening up with a screwdriver is probably the best of both worlds. I have not use the push to fit connectors like you mentioned. A lot of people recommend those. I will have to give them a shot. I appreciate you commenting on my videos! Take care!
@@TheExcellentLaborer Hang around,. I'll learn ya.. 😉 Those push fittings are the balm for making pig tails and/or in an otherwise overloaded box (again old work), also use liquid tape on degraded cloth wire/ mc wired metal boxes - comes with the 'must read & follow instructions' on that one!
Out of phase can do a job on heavy 440v compressors. Must know your ABC’s
awesome video thank you
THANKS
No problem!
VERY INTERESTING
Thanks!
Thank you
You are welcome!
Excellent video. Perfect for my next project. Lots of info in the video and the comments!!!
Thank you! I’m glad you find my videos helpful. Good luck with your project!
I've been an electrician for many years. Always use screwdriver - never use the push hole many of the receptables have. (hole in the back in lieu of using the screws). I've seen them come loose or back out when pushed back into the box.
Great video
Thank you Miki Miki!
We 🇩🇪 just stick the Wire in, press it in the Whole turn 2 Screws, put a Cover on, turn 1 Screw, finish! 240 V 16 A is Standard in any Room. Stove/ Oven 5 Wire 400 V 32 A directly connected.
I tend to use both the impact and the manual drive just to be thorough. I also wrap the terminals with electrical tape as an added safety measure. I'm aware that it isn't necessary. It's a personal preference.
That’s a good idea. Thanks Leno!
Not necessary unless boxes are metal.
I really wanted to see the other 93 installs Mr. Josh 😏
🤣🤣🤣🤣 you certainly have a plan of attack 😀 👍👍 I would definitely have system also, that's a lot of outlets to be installed 🥴
..needs ultra high 5-G speeds for that video! 🤣
I would have shared me installing the remaining outlets but it would have been a boring and long time-lapse 😂 . I always form a system when doing repetitive work like that. It definitely helps speed up the process. Everybody has their way. I appreciate you commenting Silver Grizzly! Take care!
@@TheExcellentLaborer I entertain developing and executing efficiencies with repetitious duties such as this.
I have a small Ryobi drill/ screw gun I use for outlets it's like 4.2 volts or so adjustable for the torque so you don't strip anything a flick of the wrist for terminal screws to tightening the outlet etc to the box and use a flat blade screwdriver for cover plates of course. It saves on aggravating the carpal tunnel syndrome for sure
I watched and appreciate the video. My suggestion would be to use pigtails and use the back stab in the receptacles. If code/inspector has no qualms I would skip the pigtails and go direct to receptacle back stabs. The back stab has been tested and approved - NEC, it works. Just my opinion - I was a journeyman electrician 40 yrs ago, my dad was a master.
Do Not Use The Backstab Holes Because They Are Not Approved And They Will Get Lose That Can Burn Down Your House.
Great vid!
Thank you Mark!
If you're not going to pig tail. At least Connect grounds first, neutrals 2nd, hot's last. It's a Good safety practice
I agree with wanting to feel how much torque you apply to each screw. I use a cordless drill but after it seats I manually twist the drill and can then feel the torque.
i found a furniture dolly with a kneeling pad on top of it was great for running around room working on outlets it was low enough to work on outlets without being hunched over so much
Thank you for doing such a detailed presentation on your projects. Tremendous help for us newbies.
No problem. Thanks for watching!
Good work sir Love form Pakistan
By AD Electric Chennal
Thank you for the compliment!
Watch the ground wire as you fold the reticle in the box so it doesn’t come in contact with the side screws … I also make sure the cover screws are straight up and down but that’s what I like and my customers seem to notice as well
Just a suggestion but if you had a torque screwdriver you can torque the first receptacle screw terminals to spec then use a clutch drill and set the dial on it to match then the remaining receptacles will all be torqued the same speeding up the installation significantly.
Love the information I have 30 receptacles and outlets to install I’m curious How long did it take you to do all 100?
About 12 hrs. So it could be one long day or two medium days. Thanks a lot for watching and I appreciate your comment!
Great video... quick question..do you have a video how to change the breaker 15 amps for the smoke detector to a line for light and plug in receptacle..or how to to add a line for a room extension... thank you have a blessed day and be blessed
as I recall, smoke detectors need to be on their own circuit. There is no allowance to add lights or plugs in the code.
I'd add the step of checking your ground wire and neutral before plating. They sometimes fold and touch causing a short
Good point Matt! Thanks for watching and commenting!
True, that's why I twist the entire receptacle a time or 2 before stuffing it in the box. Helps keep the ground away from terminated connections.
Wait, those boxes weren't even close to being flush with the drywall. Whomever roughed in those boxes forgot to add the drywall thickness. You should add the receptacle screw spacers onto the outlet. That way the receptacle isn't "floating" on the two screws. Eventually, the receptacle will come loose in the hole- the drywall can only hold so much weight. Also, I've seen many drywall outlet holes way too big to draw the receptacle tangs up to so the receptacle is floating from day 1.
My dad was a master electrician and he had lots of useful tips. One, that addresses your point is to build a jig. He had a jig made out of some finished plywood. All he had to do was walk up to the stud, put the jig next to it, set the box on it and nail it on. It handled the drywall depth, height from floor, stabilizing the box while you drove the nail etc. Everything was real consistent, correct, and fast.
@@NickFrom1228 All the boxes I've ever used have raised marks on the side as a gauge for drywall thickness.
@@account4info I agree, but a jig handles all the aspects of the box placement not just depth.
Actually the purple buttons on the breakers indicate it is dual protection cafci and gfci (on sq d breakers)
Thank you so much! Unknowing bought a "Flipped house" with many code violations. As a woman, I need all the help I can get.
Flipped houses are the worst, usually piss poor work is done to make it look good to make maximum profit. Gender doesn't matter here, you mean someone with no prior electrical experience needs assistance.
Well when it comes to outlets and switches :: meny homes have modular unints ( a cross between a drywal box and a outlet or wall switch ) so there is no box in the wall to put a outlet or wall switch in ;and there are no screw terminals on them !! Also do not use drywall boxes for 220 circuit ,outlets for dryers, stoves, or anything else that use the big 220 plugs ! Unless you hold your hand against the cover plate when unpluging the lead cord the hole box pulls out of the wall !!
Home Depot has a special right now on inch and a half thick kneeling pads for under $15. Save those knees!!
lol i was eyeing those the other day, im 31 but my days crawling in the attic are killin my knees...
@@michaeledwards6890 ... I'm 68 and recently retired. An old guy pointed this out to me when I was around 20. My knees are still pretty good. I originally used towels just to stay clean, then carpet scraps, then saved floor mats from old cars, then switched to kneeling pads for gardening that I got at garage sales. It's only been a few years since I started seeing pads available at various supply houses. I have no idea why someone didn't figure this out decades ago.
Neutral feels neutral about returning to the source, and live wires live to return to the source.
Alternating current means that 1/2 the time power flows from the neutral to the live, and the other 1/2 of the time power flows from live to neutral. Until the circuit is completed, (Either by plugging something in and turning it on, or shorting out) the neutral doesn't carry power, however, the live wire is desperately trying to send and receive power from the neutral. Here in the US, this flipping of power coming and going happens 60 times a second, that's why AC power is so deadly. If you complete the circuit, the power is basically causing any muscle it passes through to contract and release 60 times a second, and when that muscle is your heart, that's a permanent goodnight.
All that said, that's why I don't know if it's actually better to do your ground, neutrals, or live first, because doing your live wires last means that the whole time you're wiring that outlet, you have exposed, loose, live wires just hanging around, whereas if you do the live wires first, you know exactly where they are in relation to the outlet. Either way, the biggest thing is to make sure there's no power to the outlet, unless you have no other option, but to do hot work, and in those cases, you should have all the PPE possibly necessary. Gloves, arc shields, insulated tools, everything.
Dewalt 8 V electric screwdriver awesome
You should be hooking up the neutral and ground FIRST. You never hook up your hot leg first and the neutral/ground last. It’s a matter of accidental life and death and it’s Electrician 101.
I also don’t like using the outlet as a splice but rather use the splice and tail method. I DO like that you hook the wires to the terminals rather than squeezing them into the back of the the outlet. I also like to tape the terminals with a wrap or 2 of electrical tape!
Lastly, with a impact gun, you can set the torque to a lighter setting and then use the gun manually to your feel.
I’ve been installing outlets as a Union Electrician since 1985! I perform ALL aspects of this beloved trade.
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Why would he be hooking up outlets on an energized circuit? With the breaker off, it doesn't matter which wires are attached first.
@@bamaslamma1003
When you work day in day out for numerous years as an electrician, it’s likely that you will work on live circuits from time to time for one reason or another. It’s not popular but it does happen.
That said, it’s important to have good safety habits at a job that you can be killed on and one of them is hooking up the ground and neutral first. Like any other job it’s important to have a safe process.
Likely places to work on live circuits as an electrician. Hospitals...Definitely in the subway..Definitely street lighting...Wall St. trading floors...All of which I’ve seen with my own eyes. You also never know if a circuit has been back fed. Sorry to go on and on but you DID ask and these are the facts.
I know several electricians that have been severely burned and some that have been killed over the years. We have a very dangerous job.
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First I will install the receptacles using the corresponding Black wire with its neutral opposite of it. I have always used, and believe its code that power is situated at bottom with Ground prong facing down more for tester, and GFCI mostly. Like also using Driver more for screwing into box, and finish up with screwdriver
There is no code requirement for which terminal you use on a device other than the obvious hot to hot and neutral to neutral. Some people do things like what you describe for personal reasons, or if the local jurisdiction requires it
I was always taught to pigtail the hot and the neutral so there not running in a series. One goes out, they all go out. Just like Christmas Tree lightd
Never rely on a receptacle to maintain your circuit continuity! Don't connect your wires in this way. It isn't wrong, but it's bad practice. Devices fail, break, burn up, and can and do lose continuity all the time. Also, If you have 2 circuits sharing a neutral conductor and for some reason lose continuity, you can have 240v across points where only 120v was meant, then you can probably say goodbye to anything you had plugged into that circuit whether it was ON or OFF.
If its a multi wired circuit the neutral has to be pigtailed and breakers have to have tie handles in place.
Middle conductors (4 wires coming into one box) should have pigtails. That way, if one fails, it won't affect the rest in the same line.
Yes sir 👍
I've recently noticed and heard that outlets are also supposed to be installed with the ground prong on top for added safety according to an electrician friend of mine... Not sure if it is required by any local codes yet but they have apparently required them to be packaged uniformly with ground on top to be consistent with NEC or other division. Have you heard anything about this?
You can install them either way nothing has ever proved ground up is safer. Most items plug in in homes have only to prongs any way
Although there isn't a "correct" way to do it, any lay flat plug (think fridge cord) requires ground to be facing down to play flat.
Doesn’t matter according to the code around here.
The logic is this. With the ground down, if the cord slips out a little and something metal falls in the gap, it could bump and rest on the hot prong of the cord. Then if you see it and grab it, you will get shocked. But if the ground is on top, the object will bump the ground first. If it bumps the hot also, it will trip the breaker. Either way, you will not get shocked when you grab it. The NEC at one time required the ground to be on top. This was never enforced because the people think it looks better with the ground down. (People will find faces virtually everywhere they look. It's human nature.) For a long time, flat grounded cords were made with the wire connected to the hot/neutral side (ground up) Eventually, manufacturers got a clue and started making them to match reality, not the code. I don't know now if the code on 120V outlets has been changed or not, but if you go to an industrial site or a hospital, you are likely to see all the grounds on top.
The code does not specify the direction of the device, but the local inspector (jurisdiction) can require whatever they want. If your local inspector says all grounds must be up, then that's what you do.
If the sheathing in the back cracks on the hot while your trying to bend your wires back in the box should you put electric tape for safety?
if you see it crack you are already screwed, although tape will get you by. BTW, if it's new work, why would it crack? If it's old work, then you should consider replacing ALL wiring, as it will all be in similar condition.
I use a rolling stool/chair and i zip all over the place, non marring wheels with that pneumatic piston up my butt for the waist/eye level recips and i use the tray that the wheels are connected to for my heavy or alternate tools, wire for pigtails , nuts or wagos, and my lunch and water
Can't wire receptacles like that where I'm at. They have to be pigtailed. They don't allow the circuit to run thru the receptacle.
That is way you must always check local codes. Thanks for your input!
Just as you have made up the ground to connect to the receptacle with one conductor, the neutral and hot wires should be made up in the same fashion. That is, to have one conductor from the neutral and one from the hot connecting to the receptacle screw.
TR outlets are code in places now 😳 what’s next? Osha and lock out tag outs every time you plug your tv in... how many older homes are out of code then? I assume that’s grandfathered until any updates are done.
I'm not a pro, but I like using a screwdriver with a combination tip that fits slightly better than the square Robertson.
The inspectors I’ve deal with in my state require the wires to be pigtailed. They must be using their power of “authority having jurisdiction“
To some extend yes but it is also code to pigtail the neutral. See 300.13(B). Most jurisdictions naturally extend the requirement to all conductors to make it consistent throughout the system
Being an old hardware store sells clerk and long before cordless power tools, I sold the electricians a tool called a yankee screwdriver to do the job.
Stanley quit selling the yankee driver a long time ago. Please define old clerk?
Milwaukee sells a battery screw driver that is a game changer. You get the feel of a screwdriver without the sore wrists. It has a long battery life unlike older models. The impact driver is a bad idea. The soft metal of the screw will strip very easily.
If you use outlets that allow you to back wire with clamp - would you save time by not having to do the hooks?
Nice vidio. As a life long sparky don't know why they just only allow TR receptacles to be the only type made. 5,000 kids go to the hospital every year due to placing an object into a non TR receptacle. Like to have a dollar to every guy that I gave a company receptacle to or somebody stole some over the years.All were non TR.Going by the NEC you MUST use a torque driver or torque wrench to properly tighten all electrical screwdrivers & bolts. A first week apprentice knows that the ground is ALWAYS first ON & last OFF. Have seen lazy sparkies connect the black & white conductors or worst yet just the 3 hot leads in a 480 volt motor and get called away with never connecting the ground. One case wss on outdoor cooling tower fans that were mounted in pressure treated wood and always wet. Boiler room guy got the shock of his life when he touched a wet ungrounded 480 volt 60 HP motor.Best practice is to always c apply a few wraps of quality black tape on all devices.Never purchase or use ANY safety or test equipment, tools & electrical supplies from lying cheating lack of quality control communist china.
Insulation shouldnt be under the screw terminal
n Quebec province (Canada), grounds have to be hole up. Usually what happens post inspection, is the homeowner spends the time to reverse the receptacles. We must still use metal boxes. Plastic boxes might be accepted when they are flame/fireproof.
Plastic boxes are flame retarded but not fire rated. Thats a different box st twice the call, but has to be used in fired rated walls or wrap in fire putty
Good work bro ,question how much you charge to replace a outle?
Screwdriver gives me the warm and fuzzy for sure
Not an electrician here, but I always pigtail connections now after I got zapped by a neutral wire that was not pigtailed to a receptacle. The house I was working on was built in 1966 and had shared neutrals, and when I used a non contact voltage tester to make sure power was off to said receptacle the tester confirmed no power. When removing the old wires, I removed both hot wires first, then removed first neutral and all was good until I touched the other neutral screw and I got zapped. Why? Because the second neutral wire was going to another receptacle that was powered by a different breaker, and the voltage from that powered circuit was going back to the panel on the neutral that was now on the receptacle in my hand. Once I removed the first neutral wire, I took the path to the panel away, and I became the return. If the wires had been pigtailed, then the neutral connection to the panel would still have been preserved and I would not have been part of the circuit. Lesson learned- yes you can get zapped by a neutral wire, and I always pigtail connections in the receptacle box.
I mlike you I like the old fashion
my Buddies new home in Chicago they go side to side instead of up and down, a new code or just a new look ?
I would like to add a comment about the ground wires they should be connected together and wire nutted before the outlet then one of those two wires looped around the ground screw.this is required per the NEC.. no ground should been dependent on a device.
What states require installation of Tamper Resistance (TR) receptacles?
Ground goes down towards earth.
What tool belt is that? I have a cheap one from when I started my apprenticeship and considering getting another one
Check out the description in this video. There is a link to the toolbelt and items are used in this video. Did you make a purchase I get a small commission at no extra cost of you. Hope that helps!
Look at gator back tool belts. They’re a little pricey compared to most but they’re the most comfortable belt I’ve worn
Instead of bucket, use a mechanics rolling seat from HF. Under $20
Also put earth ground to top as I was taught. But personal preference
In my experience, buckets are much more comfortable. I think it's due to the cushion design on those small cheap rolling chairs.
Nice video there’s a like