I have a Scheppach Basa 3. I am quite a newbie but today I changed the blade from the Fastcut (Tuffsaw) 3/4 inch (too big actually but its been running and I have cut lots of 4 x 4 Oak with it) to the general purpose 1/2 inch 6 tpi blade and I have been cutting down 2 x 2 inch Oak to really small stuff (for 1/6th scale model versions of wooden stuff that I am interested in) and at one point I had to square up a bit of the FOUR MILLIMETRE stock that I was creating and I took off less than TWO MILLIMETRE (over a distance of about 15 inch-I could have gone longer but I didnt need to). So you CAN achieve accuracy. Its all down to blade tension, blade size, blade guides, blade square and perpendicularity with table/fence. Get those right and you will be ok. Watch some videos about setting up a bandsaw. Thats what I did and I am well into it now.
you are are right, with the new bandsaw that I got from scheppach the first thing it was buy a 1/2 inch blade and tension it to the point when you press in the back and touch with your finger that they become white. larger blades need more tension I read. I managed to get better straight cuts with it.
I really feel you have failed to set up correctly. I have this same model and spent 3-4 hours fine tuning over a couple of days. Remember everything you adjust on a bandsaw affects everything else. After a couple of days it was producing excellent results. I then ordered some tuffsaw blades and then realized how rubbish the supplied blades were. Honestly can't fault this machine. As with all woodworking machinery it will need adjusting out of the box. Set up is crucial for a bandsaw. Plenty of info on u tube.
i have the same issue but different model, i spent 5 hours yesterday trying to tune and setup everything but the blade still wobble, even the machine vibrate. can u make a video tutorial of what u did ? i bought my 12 inch band saw yesterday it's still fresh new
I beg to differ on the rating of this bandsaw which, based on tenths of reviews and my own experience with it, I consider an example of extremely poor manufacturing and *insulting* quality control, to the extent that their business model consists precisely in sending customers cheap and mostly faulty items just because, given that they are cheap, most people will eventually find a way to fix the defect or bear with it. The part with which I agree with you is that, in my case, despite the saw was visibly damaged due to careless handling and incompetent assembly, after the kind of fine-tuning you also did, my saw eventually worked like a charm. I get straight, square cuts, thin veneers and all that.
@@ahmedelsarky2901 if the machine vibrates, you want to understand why: in my case it does too probably because the blade is bent (they preinstalled in a weird way) so the tension on the two wheels varies depending on which part of the blade is in contact with them at any given point in time. Changing blade might change that. Also, my saw has the base damaged and warped, so I have to compensate with shims underneath. Depending on how I adjust them, the vibrations change. Anyway, you know what? those vibrations matter way less than I would have thought...
Completely set up wrong. You need the back roller set up to the blade & the side guide rollers set & nearly touching the blade. Watch some setup video's of doing this. That is all that is wrong.
yes you can do that if your blade doesnt move left right for 3mm and backforth the same in that case I agree with you, but in my case the blade was wobbling, thats why I couldnt put the bearings closer because they would touch the blade and make it warm and destroy it. I think that I had bad wheel alignment and bad wheels also. that is what coused the woobling, but anyway I returned the saw.
@@klemengor Try changing blade: if the blade is warped, like mine was, that can exert a variable tension on the two wheels, which results in that kind of movement.
I have purchased piece of cra. Scheppach 30x and already made big modifications. Both body's for tightener are broken and I had to drill new holes on different places. Yes, it's cheap, but can be much better for same effort and cost to make it. No excuses for such rubbish. Yes, it's for hobby purposes, but with it can not be satisfied either. Today I'll buy rollers and make guidance modifications. Not simple metal, but rollers.And will increase cutting hight and saw travel length shorten between uper and down guides. We'll see...
Hi thanks for the comment. Also did you have the gutter of the teeth in the centre of the top crown wheel & did you bring down the top blade guide to just above the height of the work piece.
yes I tried all that you wrote. lowered the guard as close to the work piece as I could. tired to set the blade teeth to the center of the wheel and to back like some says. Nothing worked for me. tried change tension, same story. I was communicating to scheppach guy and they gave me instruction what to try to improve and nothing worked. I also aligned the table to the blade, which was quite out of alignment. changed the blade, I thought maybe is the blade. nothing.
sorry I wathced many videos how to set properly the giudies. and one of them was also that the blade should cut straight even without setting the guides close to the blade. in teory the guides shouldnt touch the blade ever. unless for the curve cuts. for straight cut they shouldnt touch the blade. my saw has also other problem so I return it to the seller and got a new one sith better wheels and table. I maybe got a used saw which had a little bend the frame, maybe. by the way I also tried the space very close like a piece of paper space, but it didnt change a thing. on top of that hte blade was wabling left right, so it was impossible to set the guides really close to the blade.
@@klemengor I think the blade may have been bended. I've got smaller bandsaw and at the beginning, the cuts was perfect, but one time blade fell off the wheels during cut and after this moment the cuts began to be waved. After some quite time of trying to adjust it it turned out that the problem was bended blade.
@@klemengor Did you get a different brand/model or the same Scheppach HBS 261? If it was the same model, was it any better? This would be very important for those of us who are trying to make up our mind as to whether this is to be avoided completely of if you were unlucky with your first purchase. Thanks!
@@antoninosabetta yes I got the same model, but better in some areas and worse in others. the doors now are closing ok, the table is better aligned with the blade and the screw beneath the table to move the table that was weared out is now ok. wheels are the same, the blade is still woobling back and forward 1-2mm but less left right than in the previeous version. worse is : the construction of the entire frame is not welded 90 degree on the base plate, which means that the wheels are not aligned verticaly. so not possible to get the blade centered on both upper and lower wheel in the same way. the key to get straighter cuts was change the blade from 3/8 to 1/2 inch and tension it as much as I could. some guys here are saying that the bearings are not close enough to the blade, but I saw in some workshop videos that the bearinds are not important to cut straight. the way the piece is pushed towards the blade is important and it should be constant force. I hope it helps make a decision. 240euro is not much money but is not even cheap.
@@klemengor Thanks for the detailed reply! Have you considered adding a washer to one of the two wheels to obtain vertical alignment? Do you think that could that fix the issue?
By the way it looks to me like your blade is slack as f***. Also if the table aint square then SQUARE it. Same goes for the fence. Also the thing that carriesthe upper blade guides (I forget at the moment what its called) have that lowered down to just above the workpiece. You dont want to be cutting with that loads too far above the work piece.
Those are all valid points. I'm not a band saw owner; just shopping around atm. Is blade tension something that can be adjusted on all band saws? I assume that's what the big knob on top is for.
I have a Scheppach Basa 3. I am quite a newbie but today I changed the blade from the Fastcut (Tuffsaw) 3/4 inch (too big actually but its been running and I have cut lots of 4 x 4 Oak with it) to the general purpose 1/2 inch 6 tpi blade and I have been cutting down 2 x 2 inch Oak to really small stuff (for 1/6th scale model versions of wooden stuff that I am interested in) and at one point I had to square up a bit of the FOUR MILLIMETRE stock that I was creating and I took off less than TWO MILLIMETRE (over a distance of about 15 inch-I could have gone longer but I didnt need to). So you CAN achieve accuracy. Its all down to blade tension, blade size, blade guides, blade square and perpendicularity with table/fence. Get those right and you will be ok. Watch some videos about setting up a bandsaw. Thats what I did and I am well into it now.
you are are right, with the new bandsaw that I got from scheppach the first thing it was buy a 1/2 inch blade and tension it to the point when you press in the back and touch with your finger that they become white. larger blades need more tension I read. I managed to get better straight cuts with it.
I really feel you have failed to set up correctly. I have this same model and spent 3-4 hours fine tuning over a couple of days. Remember everything you adjust on a bandsaw affects everything else. After a couple of days it was producing excellent results. I then ordered some tuffsaw blades and then realized how rubbish the supplied blades were. Honestly can't fault this machine. As with all woodworking machinery it will need adjusting out of the box. Set up is crucial for a bandsaw. Plenty of info on u tube.
i have the same issue but different model, i spent 5 hours yesterday trying to tune and setup everything but the blade still wobble, even the machine vibrate.
can u make a video tutorial of what u did ?
i bought my 12 inch band saw yesterday it's still fresh new
I beg to differ on the rating of this bandsaw which, based on tenths of reviews and my own experience with it, I consider an example of extremely poor manufacturing and *insulting* quality control, to the extent that their business model consists precisely in sending customers cheap and mostly faulty items just because, given that they are cheap, most people will eventually find a way to fix the defect or bear with it. The part with which I agree with you is that, in my case, despite the saw was visibly damaged due to careless handling and incompetent assembly, after the kind of fine-tuning you also did, my saw eventually worked like a charm. I get straight, square cuts, thin veneers and all that.
@@ahmedelsarky2901 if the machine vibrates, you want to understand why: in my case it does too probably because the blade is bent (they preinstalled in a weird way) so the tension on the two wheels varies depending on which part of the blade is in contact with them at any given point in time. Changing blade might change that. Also, my saw has the base damaged and warped, so I have to compensate with shims underneath. Depending on how I adjust them, the vibrations change.
Anyway, you know what? those vibrations matter way less than I would have thought...
Solltes die Bandsäge mal vernünftig einstellen. Die Lager sind Exzentrisch und können verstellt werden :-)
Completely set up wrong. You need the back roller set up to the blade & the side guide rollers set & nearly touching the blade. Watch some setup video's of doing this. That is all that is wrong.
yes you can do that if your blade doesnt move left right for 3mm and backforth the same in that case I agree with you, but in my case the blade was wobbling, thats why I couldnt put the bearings closer because they would touch the blade and make it warm and destroy it. I think that I had bad wheel alignment and bad wheels also. that is what coused the woobling, but anyway I returned the saw.
@@klemengor Try changing blade: if the blade is warped, like mine was, that can exert a variable tension on the two wheels, which results in that kind of movement.
@@klemengor You have returned! Good choice! But, I've bought returned item ( 30x) and now have to struggle to make it decent. :)
Joseph, waren genau meine Gedanken dazu.Ich hab ne 261 er.Ist gut eingestellt und tut ihre Hobbydienste.Für kleines Geld eine gute Maschine.
Big like!👍👍👍👍👍✅💪Felicitări! Great video 👍
I have purchased piece of cra. Scheppach 30x and already made big modifications. Both body's for tightener are broken and I had to drill new holes on different places. Yes, it's cheap, but can be much better for same effort and cost to make it. No excuses for such rubbish. Yes, it's for hobby purposes, but with it can not be satisfied either. Today I'll buy rollers and make guidance modifications. Not simple metal, but rollers.And will increase cutting hight and saw travel length shorten between uper and down guides. We'll see...
Hi thanks for the comment. Also did you have the gutter of the teeth in the centre of the top crown wheel & did you bring down the top blade guide to just above the height of the work piece.
yes I tried all that you wrote. lowered the guard as close to the work piece as I could. tired to set the blade teeth to the center of the wheel and to back like some says. Nothing worked for me. tried change tension, same story. I was communicating to scheppach guy and they gave me instruction what to try to improve and nothing worked. I also aligned the table to the blade, which was quite out of alignment. changed the blade, I thought maybe is the blade. nothing.
@@klemengor i have the same problem
Did you set the guides properly to be very close to the blade? You shown them quite far away, that's the reason for the cutting inaccuracies..
sorry I wathced many videos how to set properly the giudies. and one of them was also that the blade should cut straight even without setting the guides close to the blade. in teory the guides shouldnt touch the blade ever. unless for the curve cuts. for straight cut they shouldnt touch the blade. my saw has also other problem so I return it to the seller and got a new one sith better wheels and table. I maybe got a used saw which had a little bend the frame, maybe. by the way I also tried the space very close like a piece of paper space, but it didnt change a thing. on top of that hte blade was wabling left right, so it was impossible to set the guides really close to the blade.
@@klemengor I think the blade may have been bended. I've got smaller bandsaw and at the beginning, the cuts was perfect, but one time blade fell off the wheels during cut and after this moment the cuts began to be waved. After some quite time of trying to adjust it it turned out that the problem was bended blade.
@@klemengor Did you get a different brand/model or the same Scheppach HBS 261? If it was the same model, was it any better? This would be very important for those of us who are trying to make up our mind as to whether this is to be avoided completely of if you were unlucky with your first purchase. Thanks!
@@antoninosabetta yes I got the same model, but better in some areas and worse in others. the doors now are closing ok, the table is better aligned with the blade and the screw beneath the table to move the table that was weared out is now ok. wheels are the same, the blade is still woobling back and forward 1-2mm but less left right than in the previeous version. worse is : the construction of the entire frame is not welded 90 degree on the base plate, which means that the wheels are not aligned verticaly. so not possible to get the blade centered on both upper and lower wheel in the same way. the key to get straighter cuts was change the blade from 3/8 to 1/2 inch and tension it as much as I could. some guys here are saying that the bearings are not close enough to the blade, but I saw in some workshop videos that the bearinds are not important to cut straight. the way the piece is pushed towards the blade is important and it should be constant force. I hope it helps make a decision. 240euro is not much money but is not even cheap.
@@klemengor Thanks for the detailed reply! Have you considered adding a washer to one of the two wheels to obtain vertical alignment? Do you think that could that fix the issue?
The lower wheel rubber tyre seems the biggest problem, but not good if delivered this way
By the way it looks to me like your blade is slack as f***. Also if the table aint square then SQUARE it. Same goes for the fence. Also the thing that carriesthe upper blade guides (I forget at the moment what its called) have that lowered down to just above the workpiece. You dont want to be cutting with that loads too far above the work piece.
Those are all valid points. I'm not a band saw owner; just shopping around atm. Is blade tension something that can be adjusted on all band saws? I assume that's what the big knob on top is for.
@@BarryPiper Yes. Tension is a core adjustment for bandsaws.
Bandsaw
Hi, i was looking to get this saw, unsure now, im only using it for DIY jobs around the house and making projects.
Short list just became shorter :) also just testet a Scheppach Basa 1. It’s bad, too.
Ok, thx, not buying this :D
Watch this, follow it. then post your results:
th-cam.com/video/wGbZqWac0jU/w-d-xo.html