I'm not big on leaving comments but I must say this is the most realistic, honest video for a beginner. I'm learning welding also and my rod sticks all the time. You're right, that "is like striking a match" analogy is bullshit. Why not just say "get a welder with an anti-stick function". Yeah, I'm probably going to piss off a lot of ppl for saying this, but why would these pros make beginner videos if it seems the "beginner" has to have a degree in welding to comprehend the video, what would the point be of watching the video if I already how to? But this one is great. Thanks Justin, makes me feel a bit better that I'm not the only one that think the match striking is crap (I don't smoke).
Hey thanks for the comment. I hope your welding experience goes smooth. Mine has been up and down, but I am slowly learning and getting more confident. Best of luck!
This grandma says go to the grocery store, get a small box of matches, and practice striking them. Then one day you’ll say to your grandchildren, “It’s just like striking a match!” 😊
You NEED to try it at 220v. This is because of the way the internal IGBT is in the DEKO, it's current limited so at 110v you'll only really be able to get maybe 80A out of it, while at 220v you'll be able to get the whole 160A. Most of the reviews state that they get much better welds on 220 than 110. Same with the CUT-50's plasma cutters, we have one and and 110v it doesnt work too good but on 220v it slices through 1/4" like butter.
Your “little shock” was most likely because you were welding fence which was most likely in the ground, so with your ground clamp connected to your fence, and your whip in your hand, while your not welding the only way for the current to find its way back to the ground clamp would be through your body,to the ground, to the fence post, than of course back down the negative lead. You were most likely kneeling down while you were feeling the tingle so the dampness in the ground connected with your skin through your pants. Next time, try kneeling on a piece of plywood or something to break the chain and you should have better luck. Also good rubber soles help the same way. Good video! 👍
@@MrJustinWheeler unfortunately I thought about this video yesterday while lying in the mud and rain welding on piece of equipment that a customer “needed” right away, even tho they knew it was broken all summer.... needless to say I got a few zaps ⚡️
yes sir i bougth this welder in may 2020 and since then to may 2021 i have made $18,372.58 withing one year on side jobs insted of using my big millers i have since then bought a used 2012 ram 3500 and now i am going to make a full coustom falt bed for it !!! great welding machine for small jobs/side jobs .
You could try to use some 6013 2mm just for the tack welds and the 7018 for the welding.. Because it's not easy to tack weld with the 7018 after they lose that tip at the star they get sticky on a cold weld.. Great review thanks for sharing...
I just got this deko welder and got to try it today. Worked decent on 110 for some small stuff no problems. Tried it with 220 and did great. Defiantly a lot deeper penetration for bigger metal on 220. But all in all. Really good for the price.
Welding is a cool skill to have, and the more you practice the better you get. Regardless of machine, if you burn lots of rod you will gain a lot of skill! These new little DC welders just blow me away, I can't believe something that small and inexpensive can actually weld. 👍
Lil tip brother, when your going to tack it together next time put a gap rod in between when tacking will allow for yoy to achieve the key hole when putting in the root. Maximum penetration...that's what she said
Sounds like some important advice. I am a newbie learning. Can you please elaborate a bit more on "put a gap rod in between when tacking will allow for yoy to achieve the key hole when putting in the root." Thanks in advance.
The Deko is DC. What it lacks is AC. A lot of these IGBT Inverter welders are "open circuit" at about 60v. That's enough to give you a pretty good shock. You can make up a 12 AWG 50 ft 220v extension cord and run a lot of work with full current capable. Tacking with 7018 is tough. Clean ground is the most important part of any welding job.
Looking at this two years later. Hope by now you (and your viewers) have found out that : 1. You use the "striking-a-match" technique to "break-in" a new rod since the metal core of new rods stick out a little beyond the flux covering. After the first few seconds into the new rod, the outer core forms a crater, with the metal about 2 mm inside its centre. That way, even with the flux of the rod touching the workpiece, there is still no touching of the metal and the workpiece. 2. I have found that the angle and direction that works best are about 30 to 40 degrees to the horizontal exactly in the direction of the gap to be welded. If it leaves a slag, then you must drag, unless it is (up) a vertical. 3. The difficulty starts when you have to weld thin tubing, which becomes a series of spot welds connected to one another, at fairly low amperages, e.g. 90 A at 220 V ! But since this type of welding is for gates, fences, lawn furniture, ect, , then you don't have to bother about leakage under fluid pressure, just strength and aesthetics. Not a pro myself but did take one year of welding in college years ago. I did High School teacher training in Physics and Chemistry but the college required one year of an industrial program (electrical, welding, auto-mechanics, wood-work, etc.) in order to graduate (in my case, to teach Physics and/ Chemistry in High school, LOL !). I chose welding (did oxy-acetylene and arc), and have used the arc component extensively during the summer on side jobs over the last 20 years. Have used oxy-acetylene in auto-body repairs to a limited extent. In hind sight, that was a good choice. But still not a pro ! Come to think of it, oxy-acetylene and arc welding are related to Physics and Chemistry.
I’ve watched all the reviews and videos about this welder and they’ve been positively reviewed. I’ve watched people use it at 110 and get great penetration. Unfortunately I can’t get it to weld to the steel, only melt the rods over it. Mine is too weak and I checked to make sure it wasn’t the outlet. Sucks.
@@michaelweller5470 do you have the electrode holder on the positive connection, and the work clamp on the negative? Building up on the surface instead of penetrating sounds like a classic symptom of incorrect polarity.
The screen on your inverter welder is reading the amperage, which is more important to know when arc welding than the voltage. Amperage is also what is indicated on the dial on your Lincoln. You indicated that the Deko did not have a DC option. Are you sure about that. Most of these inverter Welders are DC only and do not have an AC option. You switch polarity from DCEP to DCEN by switching the leads.
I have the Deko and it is a inverter welder, only DC output. Those rods are ok on DC, but can also be used on AC. Also have a buzz box that is hardly used since I got the Deko. I also have a HF 120 welder that is my off road repair tool. This welder really sings at 220V and with a new ground clamp lays a very reliable arc. The stock clamp is the weakest point on the Deko.
@@1skydvejam the ground clamp is the only real weak point. Mine was all chewed up after a few months of use and literally fell off in my hand. Replaced it with a Lincoln for $6. The stinger could be better, but it works just fine. I was really surprised with the quality and length of the leads. Quite pleased with this purchase. I just got an Amico mig130 for thinner metal and general in the field repairs, it is pretty sweet. I have less than $400 in my welding rig and I can do the same stuff that my buddy can do with his $3000 Miller.
Good stuff. That’s a good little welder. I’ve had mine for almost 2 years. You’ll notice a performance improvement after replacing that shitty ground clamp with a good brass clamp. And it’ll run best on 220V.
Liked your video. Very honest and down to earth. I am somewhat surprised that only one person even mentioned about you grabbing and holding the stick while welding. This is where you are picking up your little tingles!
Really? Am I not supposed to grab the rod? Lol. Learn something every day. I find it easier to control the rod tip that way. Is it dangerous? Thanks for watching!
@@MrJustinWheeler you can grab the rod while welding. I’m in welding school and I swear they teach it as a method of getting comfortable while welding which is very important for a welder to do. Now it does get hot as the rod gets smaller but that’s common sense just move your hand once the rod shrinks.
You're absolutely right. I am not sure how I didn't notice that. I've used nothing but 7018AC rods with this machine. Lol. Part of the learning process, eh?? Ha. Thanks for watching and pointing that out.
@@MrJustinWheeler They still work just fine on a DC welder though. The "AC" designation simply means that they can also work on an AC Stick welder. Do a Google Search for "Lincoln 7018AC" and Look at the document page/PDF so you can see for yourself. Under the Operating Procedures, it lists "DC+" as well. :)
Another tip tip with using 120v to run 1/8 7018, is to stick the rod initially to heat it up. As in stick stick, stick it for a solid 2 seconds, and when you go to relight your arc, it's much easier to run the rod on 120v. On 120v it's better to run a 3/32 7018 instead of a 1/8.
Thanks for the video. I have been considering one of these as a portable. You're right. Penetration is not so good with the Deko. Another thing to consider is that I've seen other tests with the Deko, & its screen is not very accurate, often overstating the amperage by quite a bit. The Lincoln I owned ran hot enough that I only turned it up to 120A once or twice.
Man, i just found your channel while watching different welding videos. I am wanting to learn to weld. I dont plan to ever weld anything really important or something that has to be safe. I just want to be able to do stuff like the steel mesh on my trailer gate or the inner fenders on that trailer. That said, i thought this little dekopro would be perfect for me so i headed to amazon and ordered it. Thanks for sharing and good luck with the channel
I think you'll be pleasantly surprised with how well it can work. Now that I've been using it for over a year, not a single weld I have made has failed, and they are starting to look half way decent too. Lol. Good luck and thank you!
I always keep a file or piece of sandpaper with me when using 7018. Once I start welding with it and lift off, the tip sort of "heals over" and makes it difficult to restart. Scratch the tip on the file or the sandpaper to remove the residue on the end of the rod. Will be easier to start the next weld. ??? Or "just strike it like a match" 😀 LOL Thanks for the videos and the good humor.
That Lincoln is a great welder. Having said that some of the inverter stick welders have adjustable hot start to make striking an arc easier. There is another setting I can't think of but it increases the amps if you get the spark too short. I watched a guy try to stick the rod and he could not do it with that setting turned up.
Great video. I am in the same boat where you were a few months ago trying to get into welding. Still learning by watching videos before I jump in and buy a welder. Your video helped a lot. One thing I noticed is you are using a 7018AC rod and AFAIK DekoPro is a DC welder. You may want to try plain 7018 - it might make some difference. Just my $0.002. Thanks again for great video that instills confidence in a newbie like me.
You're absolutely right! A couple people pointed that out to me and I never even realized it. As soon as I burn through all these 7018ac rods, I am going to pick up some regular 7018. Thanks for watching!
Nah.. screw that. I bought the exact same Deko and I welded my first (very crappy) bead yesterday. Just buy it and learn by doing, make sure your surfaces are clean and you will not have any issues.
A red seal welder taught me one time that he does not "strike a match." He does tiny little waves close to the metal to get the arc going. I am in school to be a shop teacher. That technique got me through my stick welding assignment!
Just because you never struck a match the old timers like me have stricken a lot of matches in our day. Pilots going out on cooking stoves, we had burn barrels in the back yard. So much so that we used to play with matches when I was a kid.
You are not wrong. And I have used matches in my life. But it is not so common that the muscle memory is translatable to striking an arc. I understand the expression, I just think its kinda funny how things have changed over time. I appreciate you watching and leaving a comment.
Definetly should have used 3/32" for this on 110v power... you'd be lucky to see 100 amps for real output on 110v. 1/8" 7018 needs ~125 amps to burn nicely. 3/32 at 85-90amps and you'd be able to just let it sit on the steel and drag it on. Wouldnt fight the weld nearly as bad lol
Nice vid, I also have the same welder and when testing the output, the welder was way low. At 90 shown on unit, it output 72, at 120 amps output on unit, the actual was 98. Maybe I have a dud but it welds great, you just need to dial in a higher than normal setting. Thx for the vid.
@@isaiahloving2096 you won’t regret it. I use it every week and it’s actually easier for me to use than my Lincoln now. I’m going to try to teach my wife to use it soon. Lol
Hey Justin, thanks for the very candid and honest review. It's been a few years and I'm curious to know how the Deko is holding up? Seems like a good budget welding machine, however longevity is probably less than your Lincoln. Time will tell. :)
when I learned to weld when there was no youtube and just ran a ton of rod but when starting just do it and be carefull if your using a wood bench biggest thing is have fun !!
Yes sir, I’m lucky to have TH-cam as guidance but nothing has been better than just running through rods. The wood bench was sketchy. I have since upgraded haha. Thanks for watching!
I do a little bit of welding to make and repair stuff. I practiced a lot in the beginning but without that, my time on projects isn’t great. I stick a lot too but I just need to raise the amperage and move the electrodes fast enough not to burn through. I’m thinking about the course that TimWelds offers for $39 for each type of welding (stick, MIG, TIG,fluxcore) or $59 for everything. The package might be worth it if I just wanted to learn stick and TIG.
Please measure the amps with a C clamp amp-meter. To show proof and To see if the amps are accurate as advertised with this model with so many welders overblown amps and fake duty cycles.
Please remove paint, rust or mill scale where you clamp ground clamp. Also if you can replace electrode holder and get Harbor Freight one and replace ground clamp with a 200 amp Tweco all copper or bronze. Your welding rod will stick less.
Yes sir. I wanted people to be able to compare what a small, cheap, 110v unit would do compared to a 220v tried and true machine. Mostly because I know some people don’t have access to 220v. It’s not a Deko Vs Lincoln comparison- more of a video to highlight how decent a 110v inverter welder can be.
Good on you Justin, that was a nice honest video. I would imagine you will become a pretty proficient welder with a little more knowledge. Learn which rods are best for the project you are working on, make sure you are setting your amperage correctly, and give yourself a little more room for safety. The most important thing though is, how much do you want for that old machine lathe under your workbench??? Stay safe and work on stacking those dimes!!
Hey thanks for the advice. That lathe actually belonged to my grandfather. It needs the motor rebuilt. I've never used it, but have always looked forward to the day that I get to use it like he did. I even have his old turning tools. It's an old Craftsman. I don't think I will ever part with it. Maybe I'll make a video on it once I get it up and running!
I'll be getting mine Tuesday I do have a 125 EZ flex titanium but the trigger went out I need a new wand it's a damn good welder but I'm going to try this one out and it looks promising thank you I did subscribe to your I'll be looking forward to more I'm a hobbyist myself
Isn't that welder a DC welder? I've been looking at it and the 200 Amp version for a while. I have been using my Lincoln 225 AC buzzbox for years and always bought the 7018AC rods for it. Good to see the 7018AC works ok on the DEKO Pro 160 since that's what I have a bunch of. Thanks
I didn’t realize at the time that the Deko was DC. Shows how uniformed I was when I started. But yes, lucky for me (and you) that they still run the AC rods just fine. (:
After a year of use, have you replaced the ground clamp or the electrode holder? Just got the 200 amp version and feel this clamp and holder are lacking stoutness also. 🤠❓
Glad to hear. I haven't used my new Deko welder yet. After I ordered it, it sneakily became a Christmas present from my wife. She snatched it from the Amazon driver and wrapped it and put it under the tree before I had a chance to even open it up and inspect it! 🤠😁
Glad to hear of your success using a 120ft of extension cords on a 110v circuit, welding 7018ac all day, and tripping a 20a breaker a few times. Still wondering, what AWG were your extension cords? Sounds like my 50ft 3/12 AWG cord might be just fine on 110v 20a for welding 3/32" 6013 and 7014. You make good video. Thanks! 👍👍
I just got the same welder but, haven't even tried it yet....maybe this weekend. I bought all 3/32 rods to run with it. You should really check to make sure there isn't something wrong that is causing the shock. A mild shock could be deadly under the right (wrong) conditions, especially if it's leaking 120 AC somehow.
John Madden I’ve looked it over and I can’t tell why that was happening. It also hasn’t happened since that one day. I will definitely keep a close eye on it. Have you got to try yours yet?
@@MrJustinWheeler Justin I finally got to try it just a little bit tonight. I am brand new to welding and all I did was run a couple of beads down a piece of uni-strut to make sure the thing actually worked. I ran a couple of 3/32 6013 rods on at about 85 amps and another at about 70 amps both on 110. Didn't blow any breakers and I didn't get shocked (but I was inside and completely dry). So far so good. I am pretty excited about it. Have wanted a welder for a long time. I have a whole lot to learn before I can say anything with any cred but, I am glad I got it. Thanks for taking the time to post a video. I didn't see yours before I bought mine but, I definitely look on youtube to see what people think of something before I buy. Especially if I know nothing about it to begin with. p.s. if you haven't done it yet I would check with a meter to make sure you unit is grounded (I mean continuity between the plug ground and the case) and just plug it in and measure the case and lead voltages for any stray AC. These put out DC volts so, you shouldn't see any AC I don't think. Again I am not an expert.
John Madden good to hear! I was just wondering if you’d had a chance to give it a try. Sounds like you had decent results. I too, and very new to welding, so I’m still learning a lot. Another guy just commented about not crossing the leads, which is something I didn’t know. Good tip on checking the grounding continuity. I will do that tomorrow before I put it back to work.
@@MrJustinWheelerAlso make sure the outlet you are plugged into is actually grounded. Ground faults are always a good idea if you're where its damp. The circuit I used to try mine is on a ground fault breaker. I mention that because I was curious if the welder would trip it and it didn't. I have buddy that's a professional welder. I'll try to remember to ask him about getting shocked a little if your working in damp conditions is normal. It may happen all the time for all I know.
Ok this may be more that you want to know....I copied it from here....www.lincolnelectric.com/en-us/education-center/welding-safety/Pages/electric-shock-faqs.aspx "A secondary voltage electric shock occurs when you touch a part of the welding or electrode circuit - perhaps a bare spot on the electrode cable at the same time another part of your body is touching the metal upon which you're welding (work). To receive a shock, your body must touch both sides of the welding circuit, electrode and work (or welding ground) at the same time when the welding output is on....The voltage at the electrode is highest when you are not welding (open circuit voltage)." So keep your hands off the part you're welding. :)
From the bead being on top of the metal, rather than being actually sunk into the metal, that tells me that you are running a little cold, and the arc not wanting to start is most likely due to an insufficient ground
It seems to me like the cheaper welders are a little under rated on the amps (where the display says you are VS where you actually are), while the name brand machines are true to the value on the display. It's not a real big deal as far as functionality but it's something to be aware of when switching from one machine to the other.
Surely this DEKOPRO has the anti stick thing in it? I bought the 160A Stick/Lift TIG welder bro. I also bought a welder from my local LIDL food store that sells its own brand tools and it's only 10-80 Amps & it's a little betler.. I've not used the DEKOPRO welder yet bcos it had this copper rod in the plug instead of of a 13 Amp fuse. Somebody told me it was to get the Amps up to 160 on the domestic home sockets.. That's probably why u got shocked bro. Check the bloody plug and what fuse it has in there..
lol different rods are for different applications, 7014 is not a suitable root. Ask your professor what the difference is between rods with different numbers and he can explain it better. www.millerwelds.com/resources/article-library/stuck-on-stick-easy-answers-to-not-so-simple-questions-about-common-electrodes & www.weldingtipsandtricks.com/shielded-metal-arc-welding-rods.html should help
Most of these Chinese cheap welders, the dial and the digital readout are directly connected, but the machine amperage is NOT what's on the gauge !! My 315 amp welder is. B/S, when I dial in the full 315 amps the actual amps, is 127 amps. !! It does run 7018- 1/8" well. In the wide open 315 amp position,
These two welders are different. One is ac and the other is dc. That measures different. Allso the small piece should be welded from the other side the heat input would go better.
You’re right. And when I made this video I was so new to welding that I didn’t even realize. I’ve learned a lot since getting this little unit. I appreciate the feedback!
By the looks of the channel setup you should be about like wranglerstar, I don’t know why it hasn’t took off yet I couldn’t believe most of your videos get 50-300 views.
Wranglerstar is awesome. Idk if I'll ever get to his level, but I appreciate the kind words. Just trying to do my part to contribute to the greater TH-cam information base. Thanks again!
You lost me there for a minute Scotty, I’m not sure if this is going to help me making a decision of what to purchase, on the Deko you use 110volts@118amps and the Lincoln 220volts@90amps, what exactly you were trying to proof ???
My intention wasn't to find out if the Deko is better than a Lincoln. My intention was to use the Lincoln as a baseline to show how a cheaper unit compares. I know the different voltages and amperages don't make it a true apples to apples comparison, but it gives you an idea. Thanks for watching!
Are you referring to a wire feed gun? If so, then no, that would not be compatible. However, there are decent wire feed units that are fairly cheap. Thanks for watching!
7018 is a low hydrogen rod. It needs to be kept in a rod oven because it makes hydrogen embrittled metal if not properly maintained which is dangerous.
Justin, nice review on the Deko. I'm impressed by the Deko's weld quality even by a self-professed novice. I'm no expert either. Just a few points. You should wear a long-sleeved shirt and cover up as much as possible, otherwise you'll get a nice sunburn. I was taught to never to leave the rod in the stinger unless you're using it. There's a chance you could complete the circuit if you put it on on something conductive. 75 amps should be enough with the Lincoln. Good job though.
I’ve got a 5500 Generac that runs it great on 110v. I haven’t tried the 220 yet bc i don’t have the correct plug for it. But I know the 110v side melts those rods like butter.
I think that when it says 7018 ac polarity wich doesn't exist because ac stands for alternated current meaning it's always changing from positive to negative what they realy want to say is that the welding rod works Better with the stik on positive and ground on negative... But there some people that say that on a DC welder putting the clamp on the positive and the stick on the negative one can get better deposit... I guess this DC welders can burn all the comon rods... 7018 and 6013 as well as the inox ones...
@@MrJustinWheeler That's not near young enough for me to yell at you to get off my lawn and stop stealing my garden gnomes. I'ma send you a case of strike anywhere matches. You'd lived some odd sheltered life.
amperage is way to low ... it doesnt matter if its connected to 110 or 220 . for anything thinner than 1/8 thickness 100 amps is more than enough try using a 6013 3/32 at 70 amps DCEN
I still haven’t ran it on 220/240 yet bc it works so well at 110. But I WILL run this at 240 tomorrow when I get back to the house. Thanks for watching bud!
Start taking advantage of the DC capability on your Lincoln. Break out that 6010 rod and use it on DC Electrode Positive. There are some good videos on TH-cam that show you how to run 6010, as there is a definite technique to it. You can't just drag it like you can with 7018. Check out this video th-cam.com/video/R7uAtEukEjs/w-d-xo.html
You talk like your not a welder but I know different, but however it works you did a good job especially for such a small welder, and 120 Is the proper amperage for 1/8 7018 but if you ran 3/16 7018 it would put less pressure on your machine
I'm not big on leaving comments but I must say this is the most realistic, honest video for a beginner. I'm learning welding also and my rod sticks all the time. You're right, that "is like striking a match" analogy is bullshit. Why not just say "get a welder with an anti-stick function". Yeah, I'm probably going to piss off a lot of ppl for saying this, but why would these pros make beginner videos if it seems the "beginner" has to have a degree in welding to comprehend the video, what would the point be of watching the video if I already how to? But this one is great. Thanks Justin, makes me feel a bit better that I'm not the only one that think the match striking is crap (I don't smoke).
Hey thanks for the comment. I hope your welding experience goes smooth. Mine has been up and down, but I am slowly learning and getting more confident. Best of luck!
the fact that you interacted with all the comments make me believe you have a bright future as a youtuber - I’ll be watching - good luck 👍
Thanks man. I really do make videos for the community. I’ve gotten so much from TH-cam, I just want to give back. Thank you for watching!
This grandma says go to the grocery store, get a small box of matches, and practice striking them. Then one day you’ll say to your grandchildren, “It’s just like striking a match!” 😊
That’s probably not bad advice. Thank you for watching and commenting! (:
He must be from the future
Little tip: grind the paint off of where your ground is going, makes everything a lot easier. Good luck buddy 👍👍
Yes sir you’re right. I should have done that. Thanks for the feedback!
You NEED to try it at 220v. This is because of the way the internal IGBT is in the DEKO, it's current limited so at 110v you'll only really be able to get maybe 80A out of it, while at 220v you'll be able to get the whole 160A. Most of the reviews state that they get much better welds on 220 than 110. Same with the CUT-50's plasma cutters, we have one and and 110v it doesnt work too good but on 220v it slices through 1/4" like butter.
Good to know! I’ve never even tried it on 220v bc it works so well on 110v. Lol. I’m going to give her hell this weekend and let her rip on 220.
@@MrJustinWheeler you could try a smaller rod maybe 3/32 on the 110 setting
You would likely get better results if you cleaned the coating from ground clamp location.
Your “little shock” was most likely because you were welding fence which was most likely in the ground, so with your ground clamp connected to your fence, and your whip in your hand, while your not welding the only way for the current to find its way back to the ground clamp would be through your body,to the ground, to the fence post, than of course back down the negative lead. You were most likely kneeling down while you were feeling the tingle so the dampness in the ground connected with your skin through your pants. Next time, try kneeling on a piece of plywood or something to break the chain and you should have better luck. Also good rubber soles help the same way. Good video! 👍
I appreciate the info! That makes me feel better. I think you’re right, it’s only happened a couple times when I was building the fence. Thank you!
@@MrJustinWheeler unfortunately I thought about this video yesterday while lying in the mud and rain welding on piece of equipment that a customer “needed” right away, even tho they knew it was broken all summer.... needless to say I got a few zaps ⚡️
But if gloves are dry, there is no way he could get shocked.
yes sir i bougth this welder in may 2020 and since then to may 2021 i have made $18,372.58 withing one year on side jobs insted of using my big millers i have since then bought a used 2012 ram 3500 and now i am going to make a full coustom falt bed for it !!! great welding machine for small jobs/side jobs .
You could try to use some 6013 2mm just for the tack welds and the 7018 for the welding.. Because it's not easy to tack weld with the 7018 after they lose that tip at the star they get sticky on a cold weld.. Great review thanks for sharing...
I run a lot of 7014 because it is the best of both worlds in my opinion. Its stronger than, but runs a lot like 6013
Great welding 💪🏻💪🏻💪🏻
I just got this deko welder and got to try it today. Worked decent on 110 for some small stuff no problems. Tried it with 220 and did great. Defiantly a lot deeper penetration for bigger metal on 220. But all in all. Really good for the price.
Yes sir. I’m glad you have the same positive results. I’ve been using it for well over a year and I’m still very happy with it.
Welding is a cool skill to have, and the more you practice the better you get. Regardless of machine, if you burn lots of rod you will gain a lot of skill! These new little DC welders just blow me away, I can't believe something that small and inexpensive can actually weld. 👍
And you are correct, it is much easier to control the rod by holding it at least until it gets to hot to handle
Lil tip brother, when your going to tack it together next time put a gap rod in between when tacking will allow for yoy to achieve the key hole when putting in the root. Maximum penetration...that's what she said
Haha, thanks for the tip Chris!
Sounds like some important advice. I am a newbie learning. Can you please elaborate a bit more on "put a gap rod in between when tacking will allow for yoy to achieve the key hole when putting in the root." Thanks in advance.
The Deko is DC. What it lacks is AC. A lot of these IGBT Inverter welders are "open circuit" at about 60v. That's enough to give you a pretty good shock.
You can make up a 12 AWG 50 ft 220v extension cord and run a lot of work with full current capable. Tacking with 7018 is tough.
Clean ground is the most important part of any welding job.
That’s good info, thanks for sharing Broc!
Looking at this two years later. Hope by now you (and your viewers) have found out that :
1. You use the "striking-a-match" technique to "break-in" a new rod since the metal core of new rods stick out a little beyond the flux covering. After the first few seconds into the new rod, the outer core forms a crater, with the metal about 2 mm inside its centre. That way, even with the flux of the rod touching the workpiece, there is still no touching of the metal and the workpiece.
2. I have found that the angle and direction that works best are about 30 to 40 degrees to the horizontal exactly in the direction of the gap to be welded. If it leaves a slag, then you must drag, unless it is (up) a vertical.
3. The difficulty starts when you have to weld thin tubing, which becomes a series of spot welds connected to one another, at fairly low amperages, e.g. 90 A at 220 V ! But since this type of welding is for gates, fences, lawn furniture, ect, , then you don't have to bother about leakage under fluid pressure, just strength and aesthetics.
Not a pro myself but did take one year of welding in college years ago. I did High School teacher training in Physics and Chemistry but the college required one year of an industrial program (electrical, welding, auto-mechanics, wood-work, etc.) in order to graduate (in my case, to teach Physics and/ Chemistry in High school, LOL !). I chose welding (did oxy-acetylene and arc), and have used the arc component extensively during the summer on side jobs over the last 20 years. Have used oxy-acetylene in auto-body repairs to a limited extent. In hind sight, that was a good choice. But still not a pro ! Come to think of it, oxy-acetylene and arc welding are related to Physics and Chemistry.
you need to clean the paint off the metal where the ground clamp attaches. That's probably half of your problem getting it to weld
Also get a 15-20 dollar ground clamp for the Deko.
This is why the rod was sticking.. and it will penetrate better allowing you to dial in less AMPs for a smoother welding process..
@@1skydvejam Couldn't agree more. :D
I’ve watched all the reviews and videos about this welder and they’ve been positively reviewed. I’ve watched people use it at 110 and get great penetration. Unfortunately I can’t get it to weld to the steel, only melt the rods over it. Mine is too weak and I checked to make sure it wasn’t the outlet. Sucks.
@@michaelweller5470 do you have the electrode holder on the positive connection, and the work clamp on the negative? Building up on the surface instead of penetrating sounds like a classic symptom of incorrect polarity.
The screen on your inverter welder is reading the amperage, which is more important to know when arc welding than the voltage. Amperage is also what is indicated on the dial on your Lincoln. You indicated that the Deko did not have a DC option. Are you sure about that. Most of these inverter Welders are DC only and do not have an AC option. You switch polarity from DCEP to DCEN by switching the leads.
I have the Deko and it is a inverter welder, only DC output. Those rods are ok on DC, but can also be used on AC. Also have a buzz box that is hardly used since I got the Deko. I also have a HF 120 welder that is my off road repair tool. This welder really sings at 220V and with a new ground clamp lays a very reliable arc. The stock clamp is the weakest point on the Deko.
@@1skydvejam the ground clamp is the only real weak point. Mine was all chewed up after a few months of use and literally fell off in my hand. Replaced it with a Lincoln for $6. The stinger could be better, but it works just fine. I was really surprised with the quality and length of the leads. Quite pleased with this purchase. I just got an Amico mig130 for thinner metal and general in the field repairs, it is pretty sweet. I have less than $400 in my welding rig and I can do the same stuff that my buddy can do with his $3000 Miller.
Good stuff. That’s a good little welder. I’ve had mine for almost 2 years. You’ll notice a performance improvement after replacing that shitty ground clamp with a good brass clamp. And it’ll run best on 220V.
It's easier to strike an arc when your ground clamp is clamped to bare metal
The moment you realize being born in the 1980's and knowing how to "Strike a Match", your consider "Old"
No one under 17 years old. Very few at least.
Im 17 and i have stroke hundreds of matches to light fires
Liked your video. Very honest and down to earth. I am somewhat surprised that only one person even mentioned about you grabbing and holding the stick while welding. This is where you are picking up your little tingles!
Really? Am I not supposed to grab the rod? Lol. Learn something every day. I find it easier to control the rod tip that way. Is it dangerous? Thanks for watching!
@@MrJustinWheeler you can grab the rod while welding. I’m in welding school and I swear they teach it as a method of getting comfortable while welding which is very important for a welder to do. Now it does get hot as the rod gets smaller but that’s common sense just move your hand once the rod shrinks.
@@frozenorbit7211 I agree. Thanks for the feedback sir!
Wow u did a prety good job with that without having training. I'm going to get this welder for my dad
I appreciate it! I bet your dad will enjoy it. Thanks for watching!
“ I got shocked while using this welder, I’m still going to use it none the less....”. LoL
It was just a little buzz. (:
It’s all gravy.... just thought it was funny!
Hahaha🤣🤘 atta boy! Dont know how many times I've been shocked/burned in the past 6 years of welding career
How did that happen
I pissed my pants and forgot who I was for 30 min...
Those rods said ac meaning they are meant to be ran on AC. The deko is dc. That makes a little difference.
You're absolutely right. I am not sure how I didn't notice that. I've used nothing but 7018AC rods with this machine. Lol. Part of the learning process, eh?? Ha. Thanks for watching and pointing that out.
@@MrJustinWheeler They still work just fine on a DC welder though. The "AC" designation simply means that they can also work on an AC Stick welder. Do a Google Search for "Lincoln 7018AC" and Look at the document page/PDF so you can see for yourself. Under the Operating Procedures, it lists "DC+" as well. :)
Who the hell has never struck a match?
you would be surprised man
Yeah, just ask any middle schooler these days who the first president was, and you’ll be shocked.
Lol I’ve stuck a match, just not enough for it to help my welding skills. It was a bad joke. 😬
Another tip tip with using 120v to run 1/8 7018, is to stick the rod initially to heat it up. As in stick stick, stick it for a solid 2 seconds, and when you go to relight your arc, it's much easier to run the rod on 120v. On 120v it's better to run a 3/32 7018 instead of a 1/8.
Good tip! Thanks buddy!
Thanks for the video. I have been considering one of these as a portable. You're right. Penetration is not so good with the Deko. Another thing to consider is that I've seen other tests with the Deko, & its screen is not very accurate, often overstating the amperage by quite a bit. The Lincoln I owned ran hot enough that I only turned it up to 120A once or twice.
Agreed. I don’t trust the number on the screen. But it doesn’t serve as a good reference Point.
Man, i just found your channel while watching different welding videos. I am wanting to learn to weld. I dont plan to ever weld anything really important or something that has to be safe. I just want to be able to do stuff like the steel mesh on my trailer gate or the inner fenders on that trailer. That said, i thought this little dekopro would be perfect for me so i headed to amazon and ordered it. Thanks for sharing and good luck with the channel
I think you'll be pleasantly surprised with how well it can work. Now that I've been using it for over a year, not a single weld I have made has failed, and they are starting to look half way decent too. Lol. Good luck and thank you!
You are a great welder, that you are👌👌👌👌
Exactly the review I was looking for. Thanks bro
Happy to help! Thanks for watching!
I always keep a file or piece of sandpaper with me when using 7018. Once I start welding with it and lift off, the tip sort of "heals over" and makes it difficult to restart. Scratch the tip on the file or the sandpaper to remove the residue on the end of the rod. Will be easier to start the next weld. ??? Or "just strike it like a match" 😀 LOL Thanks for the videos and the good humor.
I hadn’t thought of that. Thanks for the tip!
That Lincoln is a great welder.
Having said that some of the inverter stick welders have adjustable hot start to make striking an arc easier.
There is another setting I can't think of but it increases the amps if you get the spark too short.
I watched a guy try to stick the rod and he could not do it with that setting turned up.
@Justin Wheeler, Just a small tip. NEVER pick up the stinger and the clamp at the same time or you won't be welding for very long.
I appreciate the tip. Honestly I hadn’t ever thought about it, but that’s logical advice. Thank you!
Great video. I am in the same boat where you were a few months ago trying to get into welding. Still learning by watching videos before I jump in and buy a welder. Your video helped a lot. One thing I noticed is you are using a 7018AC rod and AFAIK DekoPro is a DC welder. You may want to try plain 7018 - it might make some difference. Just my $0.002. Thanks again for great video that instills confidence in a newbie like me.
You're absolutely right! A couple people pointed that out to me and I never even realized it. As soon as I burn through all these 7018ac rods, I am going to pick up some regular 7018. Thanks for watching!
Nah.. screw that. I bought the exact same Deko and I welded my first (very crappy) bead yesterday. Just buy it and learn by doing, make sure your surfaces are clean and you will not have any issues.
A red seal welder taught me one time that he does not "strike a match." He does tiny little waves close to the metal to get the arc going. I am in school to be a shop teacher. That technique got me through my stick welding assignment!
Just because you never struck a match the old timers like me have stricken a lot of matches in our day. Pilots going out on cooking stoves, we had burn barrels in the back yard. So much so that we used to play with matches when I was a kid.
You are not wrong. And I have used matches in my life. But it is not so common that the muscle memory is translatable to striking an arc. I understand the expression, I just think its kinda funny how things have changed over time. I appreciate you watching and leaving a comment.
Definetly should have used 3/32" for this on 110v power... you'd be lucky to see 100 amps for real output on 110v. 1/8" 7018 needs ~125 amps to burn nicely. 3/32 at 85-90amps and you'd be able to just let it sit on the steel and drag it on. Wouldnt fight the weld nearly as bad lol
I appreciate that feedback! I’m going to go pick up some 3/32 and see how they work. Thanks for watching!
with fresh rods its always good to pick off the flux on the end of the rod before you strike as it helps - tip my dad gave me back in the day lol
I appreciate that tip. I will try it!
Nice vid, I also have the same welder and when testing the output, the welder was way low. At 90 shown on unit, it output 72, at 120 amps output on unit, the actual was 98. Maybe I have a dud but it welds great, you just need to dial in a higher than normal setting. Thx for the vid.
A grinder and paint make me the welder I ain’t!
You are 100% correct sir! Thanks for watching.
@@MrJustinWheeler my pleasure. I’m gonna go buy a Deko pro now! Thanks!
@@isaiahloving2096 you won’t regret it. I use it every week and it’s actually easier for me to use than my Lincoln now. I’m going to try to teach my wife to use it soon. Lol
Hey Justin, thanks for the very candid and honest review. It's been a few years and I'm curious to know how the Deko is holding up? Seems like a good budget welding machine, however longevity is probably less than your Lincoln. Time will tell. :)
Hey Richard. It’s still working great. I use it regularly. Thanks for watching!
I haven't even seen a matchbook or box of matches since the 90's. 😂
That’s what I’m saying!
Can i use it for work in my bike project?
when I learned to weld when there was no youtube and just ran a ton of rod but when starting just do it and be carefull if your using a wood bench biggest thing is have fun !!
Yes sir, I’m lucky to have TH-cam as guidance but nothing has been better than just running through rods. The wood bench was sketchy. I have since upgraded haha. Thanks for watching!
I do a little bit of welding to make and repair stuff. I practiced a lot in the beginning but without that, my time on projects isn’t great. I stick a lot too but I just need to raise the amperage and move the electrodes fast enough not to burn through. I’m thinking about the course that TimWelds offers for $39 for each type of welding (stick, MIG, TIG,fluxcore) or $59 for everything. The package might be worth it if I just wanted to learn stick and TIG.
Yes I can believe the little one do the same Lincoln is to expensive but is good also thanks for the video
Thanks for watching!
Good on you pal for showing this warts and all video, I'm sure you will become a great welder
Thank you!
Please measure the amps with a C clamp amp-meter. To show proof and To see if the amps are accurate as advertised with this model with so many welders overblown amps and fake duty cycles.
That’s a good idea. I’m going to be another video on this welder soon and will test that.
Please remove paint, rust or mill scale where you clamp ground clamp. Also if you can replace electrode holder and get Harbor Freight one and replace ground clamp with a 200 amp Tweco all copper or bronze. Your welding rod will stick less.
Hold on. You ran the Deko at 110 and the Lincoln at 220v?
Yes sir. I wanted people to be able to compare what a small, cheap, 110v unit would do compared to a 220v tried and true machine. Mostly because I know some people don’t have access to 220v. It’s not a Deko Vs Lincoln comparison- more of a video to highlight how decent a 110v inverter welder can be.
Good on you Justin, that was a nice honest video. I would imagine you will become a pretty proficient welder with a little more knowledge. Learn which rods are best for the project you are working on, make sure you are setting your amperage correctly, and give yourself a little more room for safety. The most important thing though is, how much do you want for that old machine lathe under your workbench??? Stay safe and work on stacking those dimes!!
Hey thanks for the advice. That lathe actually belonged to my grandfather. It needs the motor rebuilt. I've never used it, but have always looked forward to the day that I get to use it like he did. I even have his old turning tools. It's an old Craftsman. I don't think I will ever part with it. Maybe I'll make a video on it once I get it up and running!
I'll be getting mine Tuesday I do have a 125 EZ flex titanium but the trigger went out I need a new wand it's a damn good welder but I'm going to try this one out and it looks promising thank you I did subscribe to your I'll be looking forward to more I'm a hobbyist myself
As far as getting bite on the fence job....this happens. It's happened to me a lot. Mostly because of moisture in your glove your shoes etc.
Yep. The only time it has happened to me was on that one project.
Try welding in light rain. You will get a lot more tingles. 😃
Nice review - thanks for posting.
Mrkientube hope it was helpful for you. Thanks for watching!
the unit itself has to be grounded......also 220v with higher amprage less sticky
Isn't that welder a DC welder? I've been looking at it and the 200 Amp version for a while. I have been using my Lincoln 225 AC buzzbox for years and always bought the 7018AC rods for it. Good to see the 7018AC works ok on the DEKO Pro 160 since that's what I have a bunch of. Thanks
I didn’t realize at the time that the Deko was DC. Shows how uniformed I was when I started. But yes, lucky for me (and you) that they still run the AC rods just fine. (:
Did you grind a sport for the ground clamp Decko not rated at proper amps !
I didn’t. And that’s why I was having trouble starting my arc. I have learned a lot since that video. (:
After a year of use, have you replaced the ground clamp or the electrode holder? Just got the 200 amp version and feel this clamp and holder are lacking stoutness also. 🤠❓
Hey Prow. I after a year of use it’s still working good and I have not had to replace the ground clamp or electrode holder. Thanks and good luck!
Glad to hear. I haven't used my new Deko welder yet. After I ordered it, it sneakily became a Christmas present from my wife. She snatched it from the Amazon driver and wrapped it and put it under the tree before I had a chance to even open it up and inspect it! 🤠😁
Glad to hear of your success using a 120ft of extension cords on a 110v circuit, welding 7018ac all day, and tripping a 20a breaker a few times. Still wondering, what AWG were your extension cords?
Sounds like my 50ft 3/12 AWG cord might be just fine on 110v 20a for welding 3/32" 6013 and 7014.
You make good video. Thanks! 👍👍
What size and type stick? I hear the 1/8 E6013 at 99 amps works great with that welder
I think I was running 3/32 7018. I haven’t tried the 6013 yet.
I run E7018 DC 3/32 rods just fine with this machine. I have been wanting to try to run some 6010 to see how it would do.
Yeah same here. Only ran 7018 so far, but I’ve ran ALOT of them. Looking forward to using some 6013 and 6010 once I finish off these 7018s
Can this unit run on a 15 amp circiut? That's all I have at home. Even a dedicated one?
20a only
I haven’t tried 15anps, maybe if you were running the machine on a really low setting, but I personally haven’t tried that yet.
I just got the same welder but, haven't even tried it yet....maybe this weekend. I bought all 3/32 rods to run with it. You should really check to make sure there isn't something wrong that is causing the shock. A mild shock could be deadly under the right (wrong) conditions, especially if it's leaking 120 AC somehow.
John Madden I’ve looked it over and I can’t tell why that was happening. It also hasn’t happened since that one day. I will definitely keep a close eye on it. Have you got to try yours yet?
@@MrJustinWheeler Justin I finally got to try it just a little bit tonight. I am brand new to welding and all I did was run a couple of beads down a piece of uni-strut to make sure the thing actually worked. I ran a couple of 3/32 6013 rods on at about 85 amps and another at about 70 amps both on 110. Didn't blow any breakers and I didn't get shocked (but I was inside and completely dry). So far so good. I am pretty excited about it. Have wanted a welder for a long time. I have a whole lot to learn before I can say anything with any cred but, I am glad I got it. Thanks for taking the time to post a video. I didn't see yours before I bought mine but, I definitely look on youtube to see what people think of something before I buy. Especially if I know nothing about it to begin with.
p.s. if you haven't done it yet I would check with a meter to make sure you unit is grounded (I mean continuity between the plug ground and the case) and just plug it in and measure the case and lead voltages for any stray AC. These put out DC volts so, you shouldn't see any AC I don't think. Again I am not an expert.
John Madden good to hear! I was just wondering if you’d had a chance to give it a try. Sounds like you had decent results. I too, and very new to welding, so I’m still learning a lot. Another guy just commented about not crossing the leads, which is something I didn’t know. Good tip on checking the grounding continuity. I will do that tomorrow before I put it back to work.
@@MrJustinWheelerAlso make sure the outlet you are plugged into is actually grounded. Ground faults are always a good idea if you're where its damp. The circuit I used to try mine is on a ground fault breaker. I mention that because I was curious if the welder would trip it and it didn't.
I have buddy that's a professional welder. I'll try to remember to ask him about getting shocked a little if your working in damp conditions is normal. It may happen all the time for all I know.
Ok this may be more that you want to know....I copied it from here....www.lincolnelectric.com/en-us/education-center/welding-safety/Pages/electric-shock-faqs.aspx
"A secondary voltage electric shock occurs when you touch a part of the welding or electrode circuit - perhaps a bare spot on the electrode cable at the same time another part of your body is touching the metal upon which you're welding (work). To receive a shock, your body must touch both sides of the welding circuit, electrode and work (or welding ground) at the same time when the welding output is on....The voltage at the electrode is highest when you are not welding (open circuit voltage)."
So keep your hands off the part you're welding. :)
Striking the match...means strike down the welding area not across it ..you tap you stick everytime
You Has to connect the deko on 220 and then you going to see the different
Yes that does make a noticeable difference
From the bead being on top of the metal, rather than being actually sunk into the metal, that tells me that you are running a little cold, and the arc not wanting to start is most likely due to an insufficient ground
I think you’re right. Thanks for the tip, Donald!
Tip clean bright metal always + clean a spot for ground as well try some 6011 and 7014 !
Nice video. I can totally relate skills. So keep the reviews and videos coming!👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Thanks man! More on the way!
It seems to me like the cheaper welders are a little under rated on the amps (where the display says you are VS where you actually are), while the name brand machines are true to the value on the display. It's not a real big deal as far as functionality but it's something to be aware of when switching from one machine to the other.
I have one they work fine for a small Welder And. A very good price
Julio Hernandez yes sir, I agree! I like this welder more and more the longer I use it.
Grest video. I'm debating which welder to buy
I really like this Deko. I’m thinking about getting another one. Lol
Im curious would this be perfect for like making metal things like tables, boxes, etc?
Depending on how thick your metal is. I wouldn’t try to do anything bigger than 1/4”. For thin metal projects this thing is great. I’ve used it A LOT!
@@MrJustinWheeler Thank you for commenting back I appreciate that and will get this ASAP also its gonna be thinner than 1/4. Ty again
Surely this DEKOPRO has the anti stick thing in it? I bought the 160A Stick/Lift TIG welder bro. I also bought a welder from my local LIDL food store that sells its own brand tools and it's only 10-80 Amps & it's a little betler.. I've not used the DEKOPRO welder yet bcos it had this copper rod in the plug instead of of a 13 Amp fuse. Somebody told me it was to get the Amps up to 160 on the domestic home sockets.. That's probably why u got shocked bro. Check the bloody plug and what fuse it has in there..
You should use 70-14 rods I’m using them in school and they start a lot easier.
Are you using the deko? Just curious how the duty cycle is for ya
lol different rods are for different applications, 7014 is not a suitable root. Ask your professor what the difference is between rods with different numbers and he can explain it better. www.millerwelds.com/resources/article-library/stuck-on-stick-easy-answers-to-not-so-simple-questions-about-common-electrodes & www.weldingtipsandtricks.com/shielded-metal-arc-welding-rods.html should help
Most of these Chinese cheap welders, the dial and the digital readout are directly connected, but the machine amperage is NOT what's on the gauge !! My 315 amp welder is. B/S, when I dial in the full 315 amps the actual amps, is 127 amps. !! It does run 7018- 1/8" well. In the wide open 315 amp position,
Hey I have that same Sears/Dunlap lathe next I will get the welder
You’ll really like this little welder. It’s handled everything I’ve thrown at it.
These two welders are different. One is ac and the other is dc. That measures different. Allso the small piece should be welded from the other side the heat input would go better.
You’re right. And when I made this video I was so new to welding that I didn’t even realize. I’ve learned a lot since getting this little unit. I appreciate the feedback!
By the looks of the channel setup you should be about like wranglerstar, I don’t know why it hasn’t took off yet I couldn’t believe most of your videos get 50-300 views.
Wranglerstar is awesome. Idk if I'll ever get to his level, but I appreciate the kind words. Just trying to do my part to contribute to the greater TH-cam information base. Thanks again!
Justin, what is your email address?
Got it! Check your inbox.
You lost me there for a minute Scotty, I’m not sure if this is going to help me making a decision of what to purchase, on the Deko you use 110volts@118amps and the Lincoln 220volts@90amps, what exactly you were trying to proof ???
My intention wasn't to find out if the Deko is better than a Lincoln. My intention was to use the Lincoln as a baseline to show how a cheaper unit compares. I know the different voltages and amperages don't make it a true apples to apples comparison, but it gives you an idea. Thanks for watching!
Why do you use 7018AC rods on a pure DC machine? Try some Lincoln Excalibur 7018's. I think you'll be pleasantly surprised. God bless, work safe.
Thanks for showing us can you add welding gun on this as well
Are you referring to a wire feed gun? If so, then no, that would not be compatible. However, there are decent wire feed units that are fairly cheap. Thanks for watching!
Burn sticks play with the knob. In time you will get good.
Thanks man! Slowly getting it figured out!
7018 is a low hydrogen rod. It needs to be kept in a rod oven because it makes hydrogen embrittled metal if not properly maintained which is dangerous.
Looks cold on the Decko
It was a little cold. It does a good job when set just right.
Justin, nice review on the Deko. I'm impressed by the Deko's weld quality even by a self-professed novice. I'm no expert either. Just a few points. You should wear a long-sleeved shirt and cover up as much as possible, otherwise you'll get a nice sunburn. I was taught to never to leave the rod in the stinger unless you're using it. There's a chance you could complete the circuit if you put it on on something conductive. 75 amps should be enough with the Lincoln. Good job though.
Thanks, Tom. All good feedback. I should get in the habit of taking the rod out of the stinger. Good idea.
Great video thanks for sharing your knowledge blessing and more blessings to you and your family in Jesus name Amen
Thanks for watching!
I just bought one
How do you like it, I just bought one as well
Thanks bro for the video. What size generator to run that outside wondering?
I’ve got a 5500 Generac that runs it great on 110v. I haven’t tried the 220 yet bc i don’t have the correct plug for it. But I know the 110v side melts those rods like butter.
DO NOT TRY AND USE THIS THING ON 110! It doesn't work well! The more useful rods like 6010, 6011, and 7018 do not run right.
Mike I appreciate the feedback, but I’ll have to respectfully disagree. I’ve run hundreds of rods on this with 110 no problem.
I think that when it says 7018 ac polarity wich doesn't exist because ac stands for alternated current meaning it's always changing from positive to negative what they realy want to say is that the welding rod works Better with the stik on positive and ground on negative... But there some people that say that on a DC welder putting the clamp on the positive and the stick on the negative one can get better deposit... I guess this DC welders can burn all the comon rods... 7018 and 6013 as well as the inox ones...
10:00 o.O
Jesus, how young are you. Why back in my day....
I’m the ripe old age of 35. 😂
@@MrJustinWheeler That's not near young enough for me to yell at you to get off my lawn and stop stealing my garden gnomes.
I'ma send you a case of strike anywhere matches. You'd lived some odd sheltered life.
Justin, is there a way I could contact you Facebook messaging Instagram message? Just a few things I'd like to talk to you about.
@@ajones1704 yes sir. You can find me on IG @ castlegrounds.
amperage is way to low ... it doesnt matter if its connected to 110 or 220 .
for anything thinner than 1/8 thickness 100 amps is more than enough
try using a 6013 3/32 at 70 amps DCEN
You did good
This machine available in India. ?
Should have ran them both on 240v cause the deko is showing 120 but it’s not pulling that much
Where this init shines is on 240v
I still haven’t ran it on 220/240 yet bc it works so well at 110. But I WILL run this at 240 tomorrow when I get back to the house. Thanks for watching bud!
Start taking advantage of the DC capability on your Lincoln. Break out that 6010 rod and use it on DC Electrode Positive. There are some good videos on TH-cam that show you how to run 6010, as there is a definite technique to it. You can't just drag it like you can with 7018.
Check out this video th-cam.com/video/R7uAtEukEjs/w-d-xo.html
Thanks for the tip, Calvin. I have not tried to run any 6010 rods yet, but that makes sense. I will try it. Thanks for watching!
Improper ground
You talk like your not a welder but I know different, but however it works you did a good job especially for such a small welder, and 120 Is the proper amperage for 1/8 7018 but if you ran 3/16 7018 it would put less pressure on your machine
Statick shock is my nickname.
Only way you could be shocked is if you had wet gloves.
Should have ran the Lincoln on DC and at the same polarity that you had the deko set to
Lincoln buzzbox only runs AC