Hello! Great skills on the lathe. I just got a small watchmaker lathe and planning to build a model engine (4 stroke, internal combustion and 4 cylinder). I know that the crankshaft should be ideally be made from steel but on my lathe it would take ages to do parting on steel. Do you think brass would work for a model engine's crankshaft or would it immediately break? Best regards, Igor
What was the benefit of having the threaded tailstock centre instead of just centre drilling the brass? I can understand on the chuck side but surely you are just adding work for yourself on the tailstock?
Brass is a terrible idea for a crankshaft, too much flex and not tough enough. But for a model engine that won't be under any real load, its a nice material to start out on. More videos soon on the whole concept - cheers for the comment - matt
Ah yes the joy of having to deal with fucky tools. I am currently dealing (slowly) with a cam chain made out of finest chinese butter. At least the exhaust bolts I put in are tough as a coffin nail. Defeated 3 hex drivers and not a scratch on the bolt.
Geez as soon as I saw that eccentric turning I flashed back(or was it forward) to your "CVT issues and AvE point" vid. How could it go sideways. I suppose it was safer to machine the concentric parts 1st to reduce the eccentric mass? I guess it's a toss up between a stronger piece vs a lighter piece?
Holy sh!t, need some glow sticks and ecstasy to watch this episode.
Lol hilarious
I can't imagine doing that stuff with that amount of precision using your hands!
It was the shitty lathe that did it not my hands lol - matt
yeah but you didn't just punch the numbers in, you where still controlling it
Hello!
Great skills on the lathe. I just got a small watchmaker lathe and planning to build a model engine (4 stroke, internal combustion and 4 cylinder). I know that the crankshaft should be ideally be made from steel but on my lathe it would take ages to do parting on steel. Do you think brass would work for a model engine's crankshaft or would it immediately break?
Best regards,
Igor
It depends on the forces. For a small 10cc engine it should be fine
@@dirtygarageguy thank you for the reply! I may try brass then
What was the benefit of having the threaded tailstock centre instead of just centre drilling the brass? I can understand on the chuck side but surely you are just adding work for yourself on the tailstock?
So I can flip it
good idea using brass it will give it a bit more torque because of the weight the brass and if you use a brass fly wheel as well even better
Brass is a terrible idea for a crankshaft, too much flex and not tough enough. But for a model engine that won't be under any real load, its a nice material to start out on. More videos soon on the whole concept - cheers for the comment - matt
Super neat stuff. Is that your home lathe or one at work?
The shitty lathe at work, it was a bit touch and go and the lathe isn't really stiff enough.
Ah yes the joy of having to deal with fucky tools. I am currently dealing (slowly) with a cam chain made out of finest chinese butter. At least the exhaust bolts I put in are tough as a coffin nail. Defeated 3 hex drivers and not a scratch on the bolt.
What is the cam chain off?
My 125 Sinnis Apache. Stretched beyond service limit at 9k miles.
Geez as soon as I saw that eccentric turning I flashed back(or was it forward) to your "CVT issues and AvE point" vid. How could it go sideways. I suppose it was safer to machine the concentric parts 1st to reduce the eccentric mass? I guess it's a toss up between a stronger piece vs a lighter piece?
Ok a green healing mat, just see your hands. No wonder why AvE never shows his face. Your him ;)
For heaven's sake - drop the music!!
Or - no.
i stoped watching because the music was too intense
you could just always mute it...