Brilliant presentation. Love the attention to detail. I have worked on my bikes for several years and still learned quite a bit from this video. Thank you, sir!
Thank you for this post. I have recently purchased a rather rare 1982 Neval Dnepr sidecar rig with a R75/6 engine. I had a pointless ignition in, and after less than 200 miles it backfired like mad and died. I hope that I can glean enough info from your post to get me back on the road. Thanks again. I'm only 3 minutes into your video and I have put you in my favorites.
Hello, @kenhieter6582. I have seen this modification before, when a BMW boxer engine is placed into the Russian or Ukraine bikes. The owners of the bikes were very pleased with the increased reliability. I'm glad you found my video useful and I wish you luck for the future. Take Care Jim
Hello Paul I'm glad you enjoyed the video, thank you for your comment. Its not the sort of subject matter that will appeal to a lot of people, but I'm hoping it will help some. Jim
Superbly put together!! Every single essential instruction exactly where it needs to be. Perfect camera angles. Easy to understand tips and language. Spot on, sir!! Keep these beauts of a video coming!!
Hello, I'm so glad you enjoyed the video, and thankyou for the comment. Below is a list of some other BMW Bike videos I have made, I'm hoping you may enjoy these too. 025_R75-6_Part 6. URL: th-cam.com/video/5eRPi8mYL7o/w-d-xo.html 026_R75-6_Part 5. URL: th-cam.com/video/umaPjTaSNGU/w-d-xo.html 027_R75-6_Part 4. URL: th-cam.com/video/7PO_k22mvs8/w-d-xo.html 028_R75-6_Part 3. URL: th-cam.com/video/WhnsFUzRLJQ/w-d-xo.html 029_R75-6_Part 2. URL: th-cam.com/video/hqgh9ts9SXs/w-d-xo.html 030_R75-6_Part 1. URL: th-cam.com/video/u5qg0LeI3vw/w-d-xo.html 039_R75_Gaiters & Seals Part 1. URL: th-cam.com/video/kWT2pDAxU38/w-d-xo.html 040_R75_Gaiters & Seals Part 2. URL: th-cam.com/video/ksN2hPJlil0/w-d-xo.html 046_R75_Petrol Taps. URL: th-cam.com/video/bita2cuvHSU/w-d-xo.html Take Care Jim
Good morning Jim ! Si glad that you post this video ! It is great and so so so so good to learn and… course I can ! The way you adjust the timing and the way how you explained the Carbs Function is simply awesome ! Thanks again ! By the way I have my R75 5 from 1973 ! Thanks again !
Hello Jorge Thank you very much for your comment. I'm so glad you found my video worth watching. Do you have any suggestions on other jobs you would like to see covered by a video? Good luck with your R75/5 these old R Series BMWs are such good bikes. Take Care Jim
Thank you so much for this movie!!!! Just fixed my old "GRANDPA" R60/6 following your tips.... So happy, was playing cuople weeks for searching - valves clearance, spark plugs, even new head gaskets :) and finally found this - my ignition set was totally screw up. Anyway!! You're doing great job :D Greetings from Poland!!! Cheers!!
Hello Wojciech Kruzel all the way from Poland! Thank you for your comment, I'm so glad you found the video useful. We have to keep these old bikes on the road. You are a long way from my little workshop in the UK countryside. Take Care Jim
Hello @jovicaspasic3203. Yes, trying to adjust the points can be a walk along the thorny Path, I hope you didn't get stung! Thank you for your comment. Take Care Jim
Hello Jim. Thanks for sharing this information. I have just had my top end done including a re-bore and the fitting of new pistons. My 1976 R75/6 has 126,000 miles and will be running strong this summer. Great video, one of the best explanations I've viewed.
Hello Colin Thank you for your comment, its good to hear your R75/6 will be back on the road soon, with re-bore and new pistons you should be ok for another 126,000 miles. Take care Jim
Hello Jim, I've just discovert you video. Sinds 1989 I've got the same Green 75/6 from 1975 (build in '74).... Thanx for posting this video's. The are greath and for me very helpfull. Again THANKS!
Hello henkmarinus. I'm glad you find my videos useful. The R75/6 is a really good bike, it will serve you well for many years. Thank you for your comment. Which country do you live in? Take Care Jim
Hello David I'm Glad you enjoyed the video and hope the others are of use to you. The R series BMW's are all good, look after them and they will serve you well. Take Care Jim
Thank you sir! This is excellent for help with my 1973 75/5 (in conjunction with my shop manual to give me the proper markings for timing and points gaps for my particular model). THANK YOU!!
Hello @egec. Thank you for your comment, I'm so glad my video has been of use to you. Setting the points on these engines does need a little practice. Take Care Jim
sorry ive bought a late 73 ie long wheel base R75/5 , I had a 1970 R60/5 a few years ago i found the handling was good it was my 1st BMW, i will let you know how i go on with my 73 R75/5 once i get it on the road. mines a Drum brake model of course. I personally think the R range from the 1970s to the R90/6 was BMW at its best
Hello Chris I agree with you, BMW boxers from the 1970's, for my type of riding are brilliant. High speed cursing all day, and if they do have a problem you can normally fix them at the road side. Fix punctures, change points all easy. There is that little spring in the gearbox selectors, after the third one broke in 20 years I modified the gear box, it now has a compression spring, it was a bit more involved than I first thought it would be but I don't think it will fail again. Take care Jim
Hello Michael. The multimeter needs to be set to measure low resistance in ohms. The multimeter I use in the video is auto ranging, when I use my manual meter I set it to the lowest resistance range which is 200 ohms. If you connect your meter as I do in the video, the only thing the meter can see is the points, if they are closed the resistance should show zero, when open the meter should show open circuit, no resistance at all. Some multimeters are equipped with a bleeper that sounds when the meter detects a short circuit, this is useful as you can concentrate on the timing marks as you rotate the engine, then as soon as the points open the bleep will stop, and you can see the alignment of the timing marks. I hope this is useful to you. Where are you in the world? Take Care Jim
A question... I'm going to need to buy a meter to set the timing on my '79 R65. Would you be able to either make a recommendation of a model (Fluke seems to be the most popular brand in the US), or a list of necessary features a meter needs to have to be useful?
Hello Edwin. Thank you for your comment. Fluke make good multimeter. I have a Fluke 8024B which came to me second hand about 25 years ago and still works well. So, to your question which meter to buy? Most basic meters will measure what you need. The BMW has a 12volt battery so you will need a DC voltage range to cover that. On my meters I use the 0 to 20 volt DC range. When I'm setting up the points, the bikes battery is disconnected, the meter is only across the points, I use the low resistance range 0 to 200Ω. Its handy to have a continuity tester in the meter, this is a function that will bleep if the test probes see a short circuit, its what I use when setting up the ignition timing, you would have seen that in my video. The continuity test function (on my old meters) has its own on/off switch and only functions on the low resistance range of the meter. It will tell you when the points open or close without having to look at the readout of the meter. You will probably want to test things in your house, being in the US your mains voltage is 110V AC so you will need an AC range to cover that 0 to 200V is a normal range to have on a meter. I suspect most general purpose multi meters will cover what you need, you wont need to buy anything too expensive. I hope this helps. Take Care Jim
Hello Roger. Sorry, no videos yet on how to service the heads on the R75. This summer I must check my valve clearance, that will be the time when I make a video. Unfortunately that doesn't help you at the moment. Going by memory things you must look out for: The exhaust is clamped to the head by a large finned nut, this nut can be very hard to remove, I have had to cut them off before now. When you replace this nut use Copper Ease on the thread it helps the next time you need to remove it. There is a special finned spanner I feel is a must if you want to remove this nut without damaging it, it works well, If you use a punch it will damage the fins. If you are in Great Britain you may want to join the BMW owners club, they have most of the special tools you need to strip down the whole engine and bike. You will have a lot of fun replacing the heads, as you tighten the main head nut down on the top of the rocker shaft supports they move about messing up the clearance between them and the spacer that sits on the shaft against the rocker. It together correctly when the spacer on the rocker shaft can rotate easily but have no end to end play, I have always found this job to be a little frustrating. There is I have been told a special tool for this job but I have never used it. When checking the tappet clearances use a hex key in the end of the crankshaft (centre of the alternator) to turn the engine, and don't forget to remove the spark plugs. Good luck, have fun. Take Care Jim
@@CYC123 ok Jim thanks very much for that info . I’ve had the top end of my r90 rebuilt so i only need to re torque heads as specified every 500, 1000, and 1500 miles . And not being a mechanic but having bought a torque wrench I was thinking of knowing how to do this instead of taking it to a mechanic.
Hello Rodger. You probably know what I'm about to say, but I will say it any way, just in case anyone reading this doesn't know. When you retorque the head bolts, because of mechanical stiction between the nut, the head and the stud, you must loosen the nut a quarter of a turn first, then retighten to the correct torque. If you don't do this the nut may not tighten to the correct torque. When tightening the head nuts do this in a cross pattern, bottom right, then top left, top right, bottom left. Once the retorquing is finished, you must check two things: First, the valve clearances (tappets) they may have closed up what with more compression going onto the head gasket. Second, the spacer on the rocker shaft, make sure it can still turn freely with no end float when the valve is fully closed, that's when the valve pushrod is loose. Hope all goes well, Jim
@@CYC123 thanks Jim I appreciate the info . Not having any experience I want to try this and hopefully not mess anything up but then again I might let my mechanic handle it. I ll try to find a video to watch on how to do this. Cheers
Do you have any mechanic friends who could be there as you do the job? BMW owners clubs may help, give them a call, see if there is anyone close to you who knows what to do. Good Luck Rodger
Hello P-A Olson. Oh no, nightmare, every time I tighten that little nut on the end of the camshaft I think “is this the time?”. So far I have been lucky. Did you fit a new cam shaft, or manage to drill and fit a new stud? Take care Jim
@@p-aolsson488 Thank you, this is really helpful information to those who have just snapped their stud off, and are looking miserable at it wondering what to do next. A useful comment, it will help lots of people. Take Care Jim
Hello Danny. Sorry to take so long to answer your comment but I’m away from home for a few weeks. Yes it is possible to replace the mechanical points in the old R-Series air heads boxers with electronic ignition. There are several companies around the world which manufacture kits to fit to the bikes. Search the internet for “Electronic ignition to fit R-Series BMW boxer”, that will Be a good starting point. You could also mention “air head” as well, that may help. I have never fitted one to my R75 BMW but I have met others who say they worked well for them. Good luck and take care Jim
Excellent tutorial. The problem I have is that I cannot turn the plate that holds the points (removing the screws that hold it first) because it seems to be stuck, I don't know if it is due to rust, corrosion, dirt or because some incompetent mechanic has fixed it with something. some reason. I don't know whether to dare try to remove it by "forceful" means with the help of a screwdriver by prying the screw holes. Could someone advise me on this? I need to have the bike ready for a trip soon and I think the ignition setting is not quite right, the bike runs fine but I can't see the "F" (full advance mark) with the strobe at 3000rpm (at "S" mark It's easy) It's a BMW R90S. Thank you all.
Hello Tosko. Thank you for your comment. I am assuming the plate that holds your points is in the same position and a similar shape to the plate on my bike that is shown in the video. The round points plate fits very snugly into the engine casing. The points plate is made of plated steel, the engine casting is aluminium, dissimilar metals held together like this tend to corrode, I have had this plate become quite tight in my bike, corrosion was the trouble each time. Now some methods to loosen this plate: Spray the joint between the plate and casting with a penetrating oil, repeat this every now and then as you work. Remove the two securing screws from the points plate. The points can be left in position at the moment. There is a bracket on the plate that supports the cam greasing felt. You can try tapping against this where it meets the points plate with a screwdriver and small hammer, I show how to do this in the video as a method to adjust the ignition timing. If the plate starts to move spray more penetrating oil over the joint, then knock the plate back the other way. Keep going back and forth till the plate can be removed. If the plate doesn’t move, then remove the advance-retard unit. Grip the felt bracket with pliers, tap against the pliers in a direction to rotate the plate, first one way then the other. As soon as you see movement spray on more penetrating oil. Now if its still stuck fast there is one other method you can try. With the advance-retard unit and points removed. You will require a long screw (50mm or so), or a length of studding. The thread needs to be the same as the thread on the screw that securers the point on to the plate (M3-M4-M5? Sorry can’t remember which) . Screw this into the tapped hole where the points securing screw came out of, only screw it in about 5mm. Now replace the nut onto the end of the cam shaft to protect the thread, this is the nut that normally secures the advance-retard unit in place. Grab a pair of long nosed pliers, using the nut on the camshaft as a fulcrum point use the pliers to pull on the screw in the plate, that should pull the plate out of the casting. Once the plate is out, clean its outside rim and the casting where it sat with wire wool. Before reassembly wipe copper ease or grease onto the surfaces that touch, this should cut down any corrosion forming once its back together. Please let me know how you get on. Take Care Jim
@@CYC123 I have no words to thank you for your extensive, immediate and very kind response. Their incredible contribution and willingness to help, advise, and the video tutorials are of HUGE help to the small universe of BMW 2v fans... It would be worth a visit, it is something that I would like to do in life, meet such people. wonderful like you and incidentally travel. I am Catalan, from Barcelona and I currently own an R80RT that I am repairing myself with the help of your magnificent tutorials. My friend's motorcycle is the R90S, which I am also getting ready to travel and which had been broken for three years because I did not have the financial resources to take it to the mechanic, until he told me and I decided to try to repair it myself and what I learn from people as altruistic and wonderful as you. Could you tell me where your workshop is in England so I can give you a "tour" and invite you for a pint, a coffee or whatever you like? Of course, I will give you news regarding the stuck plate in question by doing what you suggested.
Hello Catalan. I wish you luck with your repairs. We live in a town called Flitwick in Bedfordshire, its close to junction 12 of the M1 motorway. You are welcome to call in on your travels. There is not much to see, just a man playing in a garage in the back garden. Take Care Jim
Hello blastosist. Disconnect the condenser from the points, connect your meter across just the points. Set the meter to a low resistance range. Make sure the points do in fact open and close as the engine is rotated. If you do that it should work as I show in the video. Please tell me how you get on. Take Care Jim
Hello, yes I referenced a shop manual that showed disconnecting the tiniest bolt on top of points assembly and connecting to condenser side ( I had to re attach this side to points) . You might have covered this and I missed it but you have to remove the advance to access the points adjustment screws ( this is for a R50/2 ). @@CYC123
Hello blastosist. I assumed you had a /6. I haven't worked on a /5 machine so not sure how different it is. Your shop manual will probably be of more use than me! I wish you luck. Let me know how you get on. Take Care Jim
Greetings from the U.S. Wonderful presentation, thank you so much!
Hello Bill from the other side of the pond. Thank you for your comment, I’m so glad you enjoyed my video. Take Care Jim
Brilliant presentation. Love the attention to detail. I have worked on my bikes for several years and still learned quite a bit from this video. Thank you, sir!
Hello Frank. Thank you for your comment and kind words. I'm so glad you found my video useful. Take Care Jim
Thank you for this post. I have recently purchased a rather rare 1982 Neval Dnepr sidecar rig with a R75/6 engine. I had a pointless ignition in, and after less than 200 miles it backfired like mad and died. I hope that I can glean enough info from your post to get me back on the road. Thanks again. I'm only 3 minutes into your video and I have put you in my favorites.
Hello, @kenhieter6582.
I have seen this modification before, when a BMW boxer engine is placed into the Russian or Ukraine bikes. The owners of the bikes were very pleased with the increased reliability. I'm glad you found my video useful and I wish you luck for the future. Take Care Jim
Great info Jim and as a new owner of a 1978 R80/7 ALL the videos are very informative!
Hello @hoganapex
Thank you for the comment. I'm glad you find my videos informative. Take Care Jim.
Most informative video ive found yet on the subject! Thank you kindly for sharing your expertise with the world!
Hello Paul
I'm glad you enjoyed the video, thank you for your comment.
Its not the sort of subject matter that will appeal to a lot of people, but I'm hoping it will help some.
Jim
Superbly put together!! Every single essential instruction exactly where it needs to be. Perfect camera angles. Easy to understand tips and language. Spot on, sir!! Keep these beauts of a video coming!!
Hello @metschambel4074. Thank you for your kind words, I'm so glad you enjoy my videos and find them useful. More will be coming. Take Care Jim
Excellent video. Brilliant presentation. I only wish that I'd had these 10 years ago when I restored my R90/6. I'll be watching more. Thank You.
Hello, I'm so glad you enjoyed the video, and thankyou for the comment.
Below is a list of some other BMW Bike videos I have made, I'm hoping you may enjoy these too.
025_R75-6_Part 6. URL: th-cam.com/video/5eRPi8mYL7o/w-d-xo.html
026_R75-6_Part 5. URL: th-cam.com/video/umaPjTaSNGU/w-d-xo.html
027_R75-6_Part 4. URL: th-cam.com/video/7PO_k22mvs8/w-d-xo.html
028_R75-6_Part 3. URL: th-cam.com/video/WhnsFUzRLJQ/w-d-xo.html
029_R75-6_Part 2. URL: th-cam.com/video/hqgh9ts9SXs/w-d-xo.html
030_R75-6_Part 1. URL: th-cam.com/video/u5qg0LeI3vw/w-d-xo.html
039_R75_Gaiters & Seals Part 1. URL: th-cam.com/video/kWT2pDAxU38/w-d-xo.html
040_R75_Gaiters & Seals Part 2. URL: th-cam.com/video/ksN2hPJlil0/w-d-xo.html
046_R75_Petrol Taps. URL: th-cam.com/video/bita2cuvHSU/w-d-xo.html
Take Care Jim
Good morning Jim !
Si glad that you post this video !
It is great and so so so so good to learn and… course I can !
The way you adjust the timing and the way how you explained the Carbs Function is simply awesome ! Thanks again !
By the way I have my R75 5 from 1973 !
Thanks again !
Hello Jorge
Thank you very much for your comment.
I'm so glad you found my video worth watching.
Do you have any suggestions on other jobs you would like to see covered by a video?
Good luck with your R75/5 these old R Series BMWs are such good bikes.
Take Care
Jim
Really great job explaining this. As a non mechanic I fully understand now the mysteries of what lies beneath the front cover. Lol
Hello Roger, thank you for your comment, I'm glad you now understand a little bit more about where the sparks come from.
Take Care Jim
Thank you so much for this movie!!!! Just fixed my old "GRANDPA" R60/6 following your tips.... So happy, was playing cuople weeks for searching - valves clearance, spark plugs, even new head gaskets :) and finally found this - my ignition set was totally screw up.
Anyway!! You're doing great job :D
Greetings from Poland!!!
Cheers!!
Hello Wojciech Kruzel all the way from Poland!
Thank you for your comment, I'm so glad you found the video useful.
We have to keep these old bikes on the road.
You are a long way from my little workshop in the UK countryside.
Take Care
Jim
I just restarted building my dad's old 1976 R60/6 And yes These videos are a great help!
many thanks, Jim. simple, clear description. enormously helpful for my 75/7. all the best, A
Hello Andrew
Thank you for your comment, I am so glad you found the video helpful.
Take Care
Jim
Nicely done.. I have a '74 R60/6 with a no spark issue.. this is a good reference in the diagnostics and more entertaining than the Clymer's manual
Hello Takafoomi. I am glad you found my video useful, and more entertaining than the Clymer's manual. Thank you for your comment. Take Care Jim
Sve pohvale i priznanja. Na setnji po trnovitom Putu bez uboda!!! Prijatnooo
Hello @jovicaspasic3203. Yes, trying to adjust the points can be a walk along the thorny Path, I hope you didn't get stung! Thank you for your comment. Take Care Jim
Hello Jim. Thanks for sharing this information. I have just had my top end done including a re-bore and the fitting of new pistons. My 1976 R75/6 has 126,000 miles and will be running strong this summer. Great video, one of the best explanations I've viewed.
Hello Colin
Thank you for your comment, its good to hear your R75/6 will be back on the road soon, with re-bore and new pistons you should be ok for another 126,000 miles. Take care Jim
Hello Jim, I've just discovert you video. Sinds 1989 I've got the same Green 75/6 from 1975 (build in '74).... Thanx for posting this video's. The are greath and for me very helpfull. Again THANKS!
Hello henkmarinus. I'm glad you find my videos useful. The R75/6 is a really good bike, it will serve you well for many years. Thank you for your comment. Which country do you live in? Take Care Jim
Hi Jim, I’m from The Netherlands.Groetjes, Henk
I shall add you to my map. Take Care Jim
Excellent video Jim. Very well explained. I recently purchased an R60 / 5 so think a few of your videos may be of interest. Thank you.
Hello David
I'm Glad you enjoyed the video and hope the others are of use to you. The R series BMW's are all good, look after them and they will serve you well. Take Care Jim
Hey Jim, very clear information, well done! This helped a lot :-) Greetings from Luxembourg
Hello Jean. Thank you for your comment and kind words. I’m glad the video was useful to you. Take Care Jim.
Thank you sir! This is excellent for help with my 1973 75/5 (in conjunction with my shop manual to give me the proper markings for timing and points gaps for my particular model). THANK YOU!!
Hello @egec. Thank you for your comment, I'm so glad my video has been of use to you. Setting the points on these engines does need a little practice. Take Care Jim
Great video.very professional.
Hello Michael, thank you for your comment, so glad you enjoyed the video. Take Care Jim
Outstanding! Thank you, thank you, thank you!
Hello Bravest1
I'm so glad you found the video useful.
Jim
Super instructive! Well done. Thank you. Best video on this subject by far.
Hello Howard. I’m so glad you found my video of use. Thank you for your comment. I hope your BMW engine is purring. Take Care Jim
Very good video!
Professional quality 👍🏻
Hello Chris. Thank you for your comment and kind words. Take Care Jim
Nice job. Thanks for the excellent video.
Hello CS Park. Thank you for your comment and kind words. So glad this video was of use to you. Take Care Jim.
Fantastic video. Thank you
I'm glad you found the video to your liking.
Jim
Great video! You explain things so well. Helps me think I CAN DO THIS.
Hello Mark. Thank you for your comment and kind words. Course You Can Do This. Take Care Jim.
truly excellent video ! really well done, thank you!
Hello Kevin. Thank you for your comment and kind words, I hope some of the other videos will be of use as well. Take Care Jim
Great video, well explained, thanks.
Hello George. Thank you for your comment, so glad you enjoyed the video. Take Care Jim.
Excellent video!
Hello Stephen. Thank you for your comment, I'm glad you found the video interesting. Take Care Jim
Thanks for the information
Hello Aart. Thank you for your comment. I am so glad you found my video useful. Take Care Jim
Perfect, thanks
@@MultiChessking Hello Gino. I’m so glad you found my video interesting. Take Care Jim
Thanks very much a very informative video, ive just bought a 1973, longwheel base R75/4
Hello Christopher
You have bought yourself a fantastic bike, I'm glad my video was of use to you.
Jim
sorry ive bought a late 73 ie long wheel base R75/5 , I had a 1970 R60/5 a few years ago i found the handling was good it was my 1st BMW, i will let you know how i go on with my 73 R75/5 once i get it on the road. mines a Drum brake model of course. I personally think the R range from the 1970s to the R90/6 was BMW at its best
Hello Chris
I agree with you, BMW boxers from the 1970's, for my type of riding are brilliant.
High speed cursing all day, and if they do have a problem you can normally fix them at the road side.
Fix punctures, change points all easy.
There is that little spring in the gearbox selectors, after the third one broke in 20 years I modified the gear box, it now has a compression spring, it was a bit more involved than I first thought it would be but I don't think it will fail again.
Take care
Jim
Lovely videos.
Hello Ross
Thank you for Your comment, I'm glad you enjoyed the videos. Take care Jim.
Can you share more on your multimeter settings?
Hello Michael. The multimeter needs to be set to measure low resistance in ohms.
The multimeter I use in the video is auto ranging, when I use my manual meter I set it to the lowest resistance range which is 200 ohms. If you connect your meter as I do in the video, the only thing the meter can see is the points, if they are closed the resistance should show zero, when open the meter should show open circuit, no resistance at all. Some multimeters are equipped with a bleeper that sounds when the meter detects a short circuit, this is useful as you can concentrate on the timing marks as you rotate the engine, then as soon as the points open the bleep will stop, and you can see the alignment of the timing marks. I hope this is useful to you. Where are you in the world? Take Care Jim
A question... I'm going to need to buy a meter to set the timing on my '79 R65. Would you be able to either make a recommendation of a model (Fluke seems to be the most popular brand in the US), or a list of necessary features a meter needs to have to be useful?
Hello Edwin. Thank you for your comment. Fluke make good multimeter. I have a Fluke 8024B which came to me second hand about 25 years ago and still works well. So, to your question which meter to buy?
Most basic meters will measure what you need. The BMW has a 12volt battery so you will need a DC voltage range to cover that. On my meters I use the 0 to 20 volt DC range. When I'm setting up the points, the bikes battery is disconnected, the meter is only across the points, I use the low resistance range 0 to 200Ω. Its handy to have a continuity tester in the meter, this is a function that will bleep if the test probes see a short circuit, its what I use when setting up the ignition timing, you would have seen that in my video. The continuity test function (on my old meters) has its own on/off switch and only functions on the low resistance range of the meter. It will tell you when the points open or close without having to look at the readout of the meter. You will probably want to test things in your house, being in the US your mains voltage is 110V AC so you will need an AC range to cover that 0 to 200V is a normal range to have on a meter. I suspect most general purpose multi meters will cover what you need, you wont need to buy anything too expensive. I hope this helps. Take Care Jim
Jim - I have a question. Is there a way to send it directly to you? Thank you.
Hello @hoganapex. My direct email is james.garratty@hotmail.co.uk.
Take Care Jim
Do you have a video on how to torque heads and setting the valves ?
Hello Roger. Sorry, no videos yet on how to service the heads on the R75. This summer I must check my valve clearance, that will be the time when I make a video. Unfortunately that doesn't help you at the moment. Going by memory things you must look out for:
The exhaust is clamped to the head by a large finned nut, this nut can be very hard to remove, I have had to cut them off before now. When you replace this nut use Copper Ease on the thread it helps the next time you need to remove it. There is a special finned spanner I feel is a must if you want to remove this nut without damaging it, it works well, If you use a punch it will damage the fins.
If you are in Great Britain you may want to join the BMW owners club, they have most of the special tools you need to strip down the whole engine and bike. You will have a lot of fun replacing the heads, as you tighten the main head nut down on the top of the rocker shaft supports they move about messing up the clearance between them and the spacer that sits on the shaft against the rocker. It together correctly when the spacer on the rocker shaft can rotate easily but have no end to end play, I have always found this job to be a little frustrating. There is I have been told a special tool for this job but I have never used it. When checking the tappet clearances use a hex key in the end of the crankshaft (centre of the alternator) to turn the engine, and don't forget to remove the spark plugs. Good luck, have fun. Take Care Jim
@@CYC123 ok Jim thanks very much for that info . I’ve had the top end of my r90 rebuilt so i only need to re torque heads as specified every 500, 1000, and 1500 miles . And not being a mechanic but having bought a torque wrench I was thinking of knowing how to do this instead of taking it to a mechanic.
Hello Rodger. You probably know what I'm about to say, but I will say it any way, just in case anyone reading this doesn't know.
When you retorque the head bolts, because of mechanical stiction between the nut, the head and the stud, you must loosen the nut a quarter of a turn first, then retighten to the correct torque. If you don't do this the nut may not tighten to the correct torque.
When tightening the head nuts do this in a cross pattern, bottom right, then top left, top right, bottom left.
Once the retorquing is finished, you must check two things: First, the valve clearances (tappets) they may have closed up what with more compression going onto the head gasket. Second, the spacer on the rocker shaft, make sure it can still turn freely with no end float when the valve is fully closed, that's when the valve pushrod is loose. Hope all goes well, Jim
@@CYC123 thanks Jim I appreciate the info . Not having any experience I want to try this and hopefully not mess anything up but then again I might let my mechanic handle it. I ll try to find a video to watch on how to do this.
Cheers
Do you have any mechanic friends who could be there as you do the job?
BMW owners clubs may help, give them a call, see if there is anyone close to you who knows what to do.
Good Luck Rodger
I have succesfully snapped the threads on the camshaft with a standard 10mm wrench... it was not an easy job to fix....
I have the same 75/6 btw!
Hello P-A Olson.
Oh no, nightmare, every time I tighten that little nut on the end of the camshaft I think “is this the time?”. So far I have been lucky.
Did you fit a new cam shaft, or manage to drill and fit a new stud? Take care Jim
I was able to drill a hole in the cam with a lathe, and put a m6 thread in it!
@@p-aolsson488 Thank you, Its good to know the shaft can be machined, it does give you a line of escape if you do ever snap it off. Well done.
If you are helping somone with this problem, recomend m5 threads instead! It gives a little more space to work with!
@@p-aolsson488 Thank you, this is really helpful information to those who have just snapped their stud off, and are looking miserable at it wondering what to do next. A useful comment, it will help lots of people. Take Care Jim
is it possible to put a elektronic ignision i pl of de old contacts ?
Hello Danny. Sorry to take so long to answer your comment but I’m away from home for a few weeks. Yes it is possible to replace the mechanical points in the old R-Series air heads boxers with electronic ignition. There are several companies around the world which manufacture kits to fit to the bikes. Search the internet for “Electronic ignition to fit R-Series BMW boxer”, that will Be a good starting point. You could also mention “air head” as well, that may help. I have never fitted one to my R75 BMW but I have met others who say they worked well for them. Good luck and take care Jim
Excellent tutorial. The problem I have is that I cannot turn the plate that holds the points (removing the screws that hold it first) because it seems to be stuck, I don't know if it is due to rust, corrosion, dirt or because some incompetent mechanic has fixed it with something. some reason. I don't know whether to dare try to remove it by "forceful" means with the help of a screwdriver by prying the screw holes. Could someone advise me on this? I need to have the bike ready for a trip soon and I think the ignition setting is not quite right, the bike runs fine but I can't see the "F" (full advance mark) with the strobe at 3000rpm (at "S" mark It's easy) It's a BMW R90S. Thank you all.
Hello Tosko. Thank you for your comment. I am assuming the plate that holds your points is in the same position and a similar shape to the plate on my bike that is shown in the video.
The round points plate fits very snugly into the engine casing. The points plate is made of plated steel, the engine casting is aluminium, dissimilar metals held together like this tend to corrode, I have had this plate become quite tight in my bike, corrosion was the trouble each time.
Now some methods to loosen this plate:
Spray the joint between the plate and casting with a penetrating oil, repeat this every now and then as you work. Remove the two securing screws from the points plate. The points can be left in position at the moment.
There is a bracket on the plate that supports the cam greasing felt. You can try tapping against this where it meets the points plate with a screwdriver and small hammer, I show how to do this in the video as a method to adjust the ignition timing. If the plate starts to move spray more penetrating oil over the joint, then knock the plate back the other way. Keep going back and forth till the plate can be removed.
If the plate doesn’t move, then remove the advance-retard unit. Grip the felt bracket with pliers, tap against the pliers in a direction to rotate the plate, first one way then the other. As soon as you see movement spray on more penetrating oil.
Now if its still stuck fast there is one other method you can try.
With the advance-retard unit and points removed. You will require a long screw (50mm or so), or a length of studding. The thread needs to be the same as the thread on the screw that securers the point on to the plate (M3-M4-M5? Sorry can’t remember which) . Screw this into the tapped hole where the points securing screw came out of, only screw it in about 5mm. Now replace the nut onto the end of the cam shaft to protect the thread, this is the nut that normally secures the advance-retard unit in place. Grab a pair of long nosed pliers, using the nut on the camshaft as a fulcrum point use the pliers to pull on the screw in the plate, that should pull the plate out of the casting. Once the plate is out, clean its outside rim and the casting where it sat with wire wool. Before reassembly wipe copper ease or grease onto the surfaces that touch, this should cut down any corrosion forming once its back together.
Please let me know how you get on.
Take Care Jim
@@CYC123 I have no words to thank you for your extensive, immediate and very kind response. Their incredible contribution and willingness to help, advise, and the video tutorials are of HUGE help to the small universe of BMW 2v fans... It would be worth a visit, it is something that I would like to do in life, meet such people. wonderful like you and incidentally travel. I am Catalan, from Barcelona and I currently own an R80RT that I am repairing myself with the help of your magnificent tutorials. My friend's motorcycle is the R90S, which I am also getting ready to travel and which had been broken for three years because I did not have the financial resources to take it to the mechanic, until he told me and I decided to try to repair it myself and what I learn from people as altruistic and wonderful as you. Could you tell me where your workshop is in England so I can give you a "tour" and invite you for a pint, a coffee or whatever you like? Of course, I will give you news regarding the stuck plate in question by doing what you suggested.
Hello Catalan. I wish you luck with your repairs. We live in a town called Flitwick in Bedfordshire, its close to junction 12 of the M1 motorway. You are welcome to call in on your travels. There is not much to see, just a man playing in a garage in the back garden. Take Care Jim
I have continuity at all times but I hooked my meter up to top of points assembly? Maybe it need to be connect to lead to condenser to prevent this?
Hello blastosist. Disconnect the condenser from the points, connect your meter across just the points. Set the meter to a low resistance range. Make sure the points do in fact open and close as the engine is rotated. If you do that it should work as I show in the video. Please tell me how you get on. Take Care Jim
Hello, yes I referenced a shop manual that showed disconnecting the tiniest bolt on top of points assembly and connecting to condenser side ( I had to re attach this side to points) . You might have covered this and I missed it but you have to remove the advance to access the points adjustment screws ( this is for a R50/2 ).
@@CYC123
Hello blastosist. I assumed you had a /6. I haven't worked on a /5 machine so not sure how different it is. Your shop manual will probably be of more use than me! I wish you luck. Let me know how you get on. Take Care Jim