I recently did mine. I removed the connectors from the factory speakers and wired them to connect to the new speakers. I also used adapter rings as you did for the front. Mine is a convertible, and I couldn't find adapters that fit the rear. I had to make baffles for the rear out of nice solid wood (3/4" thick to give me room to add speaker with slightly more depth.) I just traced the old speakers on the the wood and cut them out in the exact size. Then I cut out the hole for the new speakers and screwed them into the wooden baffle. I also cut off the connections from the old rear speakers and wired them to the new speakers. This kept everything on the car side "factory," which was my goal. So if I sell the car, if the buyer wants to put factory equipment back it, it will just be plug and go. I'm thinking of adding a sub, but that's yet to be determined.
Changing the speakers will improve the sound but if you really want to improve things you need to cut the metal out behind the speaker so it has some breathing room. I actually have my speakers mounted to the door itself on custom mdf baffles and they're solid, I also fabricated a panel to cover the big gap in the door and the difference was huge, the car actually has proper midbass now. I fully treated the doors with deadener and open cell foam behind the speaker to help with standing waves while I was there and did the same to the doorcard so it doesn't rattle either. It was a lot of work but the improvement in sound quality is absolutely worth it. If you do decide to cut your door be careful how you do it, there is a long metal runner the window mechanism rides on directly behind where you cut and it bolts on at the bottom so you can't cut a full 360 degree circle. You can feel where it is before you start and decide for yourself where and how much to cut, it's fairly straightforward though just be careful.
You can lever the large control off switch,hold the stem which will be left sticking up with pliers / grips, and pull up.Connector will come with switch,no damage done, and pull connector off switch. Simples !!!
I'm sure you could. Maybe just get factory replacements if you were only interested in the tweeters. Make it much easier. But I haven't done enough research to know 100% which aftermarket tweeters would be a solid choice by themselves.
So I ordered some new speakers for my E46 and I was wondering if I need the component splitter that comes with the speaker or if I need to just plug in the tweeter and mid where the factory ones went using the stock wiring?
what happened to this whole talk about having to match impedances with the Harman Kardon ones? I keep reading I can't just throw in any speaker because the Harman Kardon system has lower impedances.. is this true?
I read all of the same things. I'm sure ideally, yes, you should match the ohms to whatever the HK system is. However, I did not. These are only 4ohm speakers. And they work. They seem to work just fine. It has been over a year now, and I play music loud, typically volume all the way up. So far these Alpines have held up well with daily abuse. The factory amp is still being used to power these. Nothing has changed since this install video. I haven't even replaced the rear speakers yet. Which is next to come though. Hope this helps in your decision.
Hey Bobby. I have not replaced the rear speakers yet. I meant to, mainly because the rear shelf rattles and it is annoying. It's still on the list to do. However, I will say that the front speakers are still working great to this day.
(Copied from my original post) I recently did mine. I removed the connectors from the factory speakers and wired them to connect to the new speakers. I also used adapter rings as you did for the front. Mine is a convertible, and I couldn't find adapters that fit the rear. I had to make baffles for the rear out of nice solid wood (3/4" thick to give me room to add speaker with slightly more depth.) I just traced the old speakers on the the wood and cut them out in the exact size. Then I cut out the hole for the new speakers and screwed them into the wooden baffle. I also cut off the connections from the old rear speakers and wired them to the new speakers. This kept everything on the car side "factory," which was my goal. So if I sell the car, if the buyer wants to put factory equipment back it, it will just be plug and go. I'm thinking of adding a sub, but that's yet to be determined.
What kind of stereo do you have? Can you add any more vido when playing music (which you can play;) Have you continued the same h / k speaker in the hat shelf? :)
The head unit is a Eonon GA5150F. I have not done the rear deck speakers yet. I plan to as well as add sound dampening or whatever to stop the shelf from rattling. I will do that all at once.
Andrew Donaldson I'm not sure there is a plug in and go option except for the BavSound setup. But that is really expensive. I think last I looked it was around $600.
To be honest, I went on Crutchfield and they said these would work. I read a thread on a forum a while ago about some people using these as well and figured I'd give it a shot. It had to be better than my blown stockers.
Hey Mike I'm having a bit of trouble with the connections. Not sure what connects with what as I'm getting an output from the tweeters but it seems as though the speakers aren't getting anything. Could you send a picture of it if possible ?
Here is site (link below) I used as a reference for the speaker wiring. I have the HK system. If you don't the colors might be different. I don't have a picture of my install. Hope this helps! www.m3forum.net/m3forum/showthread.php?t=462847
No real kit. It's an Eonon radio which basically bolts in like factory. However since I didn't have stock navigation I had to relocate my climate control and heated seat panel. I bought that kit from ECS Tuning.
I love it. Haven't had any real problems, it has locked up only twice on boot up and on Bluetooth audio it skips for like the first 10 seconds of play then it's fine. It didn't always do it, just recently. I might do a factory reset and see if it fixes it.
Mike Hansbarger thanks! I was thinking about buying one. Have you ever used it for maps? also how is your audio quality after the install? specifically the bass.
I have used it for maps. If you can setup your phone as a mobile hotspot, the unit will use your phones data and you can use Google Maps. That's what I do and it's great. Make sure you install the WiFi antenna that comes with the radio. Audio quality is pretty good. The bass is adequate. I'm not into loud bass like I used to be. The radio has a built in EQ so you can tune it how you like.
could somebody answer this please? i have upgraded stock speakers to apline & jcv speakers, wired it from 1000w ampilier and music sound just a little better than before but still terrible.. could it be because car has old dynavin stereo?
I mean it could be the head unit, but I kinda doubt it. I would just check all the connections. Make sure your ground connections are solid and on raw metal (i.e. not on paint) and I've seen this before too, don't run your power wires close to your rca wires for the amplifier. That can cause interference and such. Hopefully you can get it sorted out. I know how frustrating poor audio quality is.
They sound pretty good. Probably would be better if I replaced the factory amp. But for the money and effort it took to install, definitely worth it to me.
Something is not as it should be. Originally you have 3 ways speaker, Woofer, mid range and tweeter. You just connected tweeter and woofer connection . Where is mid range? You missing mid range tones!
I recently did mine. I removed the connectors from the factory speakers and wired them to connect to the new speakers. I also used adapter rings as you did for the front. Mine is a convertible, and I couldn't find adapters that fit the rear. I had to make baffles for the rear out of nice solid wood (3/4" thick to give me room to add speaker with slightly more depth.) I just traced the old speakers on the the wood and cut them out in the exact size. Then I cut out the hole for the new speakers and screwed them into the wooden baffle. I also cut off the connections from the old rear speakers and wired them to the new speakers. This kept everything on the car side "factory," which was my goal. So if I sell the car, if the buyer wants to put factory equipment back it, it will just be plug and go. I'm thinking of adding a sub, but that's yet to be determined.
Changing the speakers will improve the sound but if you really want to improve things you need to cut the metal out behind the speaker so it has some breathing room. I actually have my speakers mounted to the door itself on custom mdf baffles and they're solid, I also fabricated a panel to cover the big gap in the door and the difference was huge, the car actually has proper midbass now.
I fully treated the doors with deadener and open cell foam behind the speaker to help with standing waves while I was there and did the same to the doorcard so it doesn't rattle either. It was a lot of work but the improvement in sound quality is absolutely worth it.
If you do decide to cut your door be careful how you do it, there is a long metal runner the window mechanism rides on directly behind where you cut and it bolts on at the bottom so you can't cut a full 360 degree circle. You can feel where it is before you start and decide for yourself where and how much to cut, it's fairly straightforward though just be careful.
Why not show speakers coming out,so we know what we are doing.And in case we want to put them back please.???
That is why it is best to test BEFORE you put it back together !! That is SOLD-ER
*casually scratches hood*
its ok , I break a clip every time I look at the car.
yes sir Isn't that the truth! At least they are easily replaceable.
You can lever the large control off switch,hold the stem which will be left sticking
up with pliers / grips, and pull up.Connector will come with switch,no damage done,
and pull connector off switch. Simples !!!
My bad I meant to ask what size are those speakers
Could I replace only the tweeter and leave in the stock midrange? thanks
I'm sure you could. Maybe just get factory replacements if you were only interested in the tweeters. Make it much easier. But I haven't done enough research to know 100% which aftermarket tweeters would be a solid choice by themselves.
So I ordered some new speakers for my E46 and I was wondering if I need the component splitter that comes with the speaker or if I need to just plug in the tweeter and mid where the factory ones went using the stock wiring?
I think I just wired them directly to car harness.
How did you figure out which wire is negative and positive??
16.5 cm speakers ?
Yeah, I think 6.5 inches converts to about 16.5 cm.
what happened to this whole talk about having to match impedances with the Harman Kardon ones? I keep reading I can't just throw in any speaker because the Harman Kardon system has lower impedances.. is this true?
I read all of the same things. I'm sure ideally, yes, you should match the ohms to whatever the HK system is. However, I did not. These are only 4ohm speakers. And they work. They seem to work just fine. It has been over a year now, and I play music loud, typically volume all the way up. So far these Alpines have held up well with daily abuse. The factory amp is still being used to power these. Nothing has changed since this install video. I haven't even replaced the rear speakers yet. Which is next to come though. Hope this helps in your decision.
"...the Harman Kardon system has lower impedances.. is this true?" Yes.
Hi Mike, could you tell me what you have done to the rear speakers? did you replace them as well?
Hey Bobby. I have not replaced the rear speakers yet. I meant to, mainly because the rear shelf rattles and it is annoying. It's still on the list to do. However, I will say that the front speakers are still working great to this day.
(Copied from my original post) I recently did mine. I removed the connectors from the factory speakers and wired them to connect to the new speakers. I also used adapter rings as you did for the front. Mine is a convertible, and I couldn't find adapters that fit the rear. I had to make baffles for the rear out of nice solid wood (3/4" thick to give me room to add speaker with slightly more depth.) I just traced the old speakers on the the wood and cut them out in the exact size. Then I cut out the hole for the new speakers and screwed them into the wooden baffle. I also cut off the connections from the old rear speakers and wired them to the new speakers. This kept everything on the car side "factory," which was my goal. So if I sell the car, if the buyer wants to put factory equipment back it, it will just be plug and go. I'm thinking of adding a sub, but that's yet to be determined.
What kind of stereo do you have?
Can you add any more vido when playing music (which you can play;)
Have you continued the same h / k speaker in the hat shelf? :)
The head unit is a Eonon GA5150F. I have not done the rear deck speakers yet. I plan to as well as add sound dampening or whatever to stop the shelf from rattling. I will do that all at once.
Okay. Would like a comparison before and after. It would be nice!
yo you aren't using the factory AMP of course?
is this the oem Amplifier? how much rms does he bring?
I am using the stock amplifier, but to be honest I'm not entirely sure what the RMS rating is for it. I've heard that it is pretty low.
Couple questions on this, what kinda specs do you need to to have "plug in an go" sound system upgrade?
Andrew Donaldson I'm not sure there is a plug in and go option except for the BavSound setup. But that is really expensive. I think last I looked it was around $600.
Mike Hansbarger well with this you just rewired new speakers in, was wondering how you chose those
To be honest, I went on Crutchfield and they said these would work. I read a thread on a forum a while ago about some people using these as well and figured I'd give it a shot. It had to be better than my blown stockers.
Hey, did you changed the tweeters and mid-range as well or just the bottom speaker?
Cristopher Quezada The stock tweeter and mid were replaced with just a tweeter and the woofer was replaced with another woofer.
Hey Mike
I'm having a bit of trouble with the connections. Not sure what connects with what as I'm getting an output from the tweeters but it seems as though the speakers aren't getting anything. Could you send a picture of it if possible ?
Here is site (link below) I used as a reference for the speaker wiring. I have the HK system. If you don't the colors might be different. I don't have a picture of my install. Hope this helps!
www.m3forum.net/m3forum/showthread.php?t=462847
Why not show us how to remove the pane rather than showing us after you did it? That defeats the purpose of a how to
This dude straight lookin like cheeto steve
what kind of kit did you get for your dash radio
No real kit. It's an Eonon radio which basically bolts in like factory. However since I didn't have stock navigation I had to relocate my climate control and heated seat panel. I bought that kit from ECS Tuning.
which head deck is that?
Eonon GA5150F
Mike Hansbarger how are you liking it? any issues?
I love it. Haven't had any real problems, it has locked up only twice on boot up and on Bluetooth audio it skips for like the first 10 seconds of play then it's fine. It didn't always do it, just recently. I might do a factory reset and see if it fixes it.
Mike Hansbarger thanks! I was thinking about buying one. Have you ever used it for maps? also how is your audio quality after the install? specifically the bass.
I have used it for maps. If you can setup your phone as a mobile hotspot, the unit will use your phones data and you can use Google Maps. That's what I do and it's great. Make sure you install the WiFi antenna that comes with the radio. Audio quality is pretty good. The bass is adequate. I'm not into loud bass like I used to be. The radio has a built in EQ so you can tune it how you like.
could somebody answer this please? i have upgraded stock speakers to apline & jcv speakers, wired it from 1000w ampilier and music sound just a little better than before but still terrible.. could it be because car has old dynavin stereo?
I mean it could be the head unit, but I kinda doubt it. I would just check all the connections. Make sure your ground connections are solid and on raw metal (i.e. not on paint) and I've seen this before too, don't run your power wires close to your rca wires for the amplifier. That can cause interference and such. Hopefully you can get it sorted out. I know how frustrating poor audio quality is.
Yes I had issues with unwanted noises which wires was making but sorted that out by connecting noise filter. As well the bass sounds so terrible
How do these sound? Do they bump?
They sound pretty good. Probably would be better if I replaced the factory amp. But for the money and effort it took to install, definitely worth it to me.
I'm thinking of buying it. It's $80 at Best Buy.
Wow, $80 is nearly half of what I paid. Seems like a good deal to me!
Can you please tell me the size of those speakers and the ones I need for the trunk. I have 2002 BMW 325ci coup. Thanks bud.
Love the video thank you
Something is not as it should be. Originally you have 3 ways speaker, Woofer, mid range and tweeter. You just connected tweeter and woofer connection . Where is mid range? You missing mid range tones!
What year is ur car
2004
dude theyre 75 on ebay
hueco mundo 150 front and back he already replaced the back
SHIT for music, use ear buds!