Thank you SO MUCH for this video! Following the tips here, I got some amazing eclipse photos today, and I’m in no way an expert! By keeping it simple, I got my exposures, plus I got to enjoy SEEING the eclipse, not just shooting it! THANK YOU!!
Stan, THANK YOU!!! This is exactly what I needed. I have viewed many vids only to get overwhelmed.I realize I need to do some testing on my own, this is a great starting place.,have been waiting on clear skies...hopefully this lack of sun now will be enough to see the sun on eclipse day!! thanks again happy Eclipsing :)
Thanks again Mr. Honda. I’ve practically memorized your videos I’ve viewed them so many times. I’m hoping for clear skies and looking to put your suggestions into practice. This will be my first, and most likely only, Total Solar Eclipse.
Thanks very much for this help with camera settings Stan , i'm sure it will be very helpful when we visit Salado , Texas for the eclipse in a couple of weeks . I wish you clear skies 🤞🙏
Wow. I must have gotten a sheet of solar light filter film from Thousand Oaks that was more like ND6 than ND5. For those settings in 2023 October, I had to use 1/100s exposure and then I looked back at my 2017 and for the partial, once again I was on the order of needing between 3 and 4 stops more exposure. This time I am automating the process, so it became a factor. I am just going to use the Baader film which after I tested it, seem to work fine at your numbers here for the partial phases.
Great presentation! Bracketing exposures is a key. It's a lot more work selecting exposures, but it's worth it. That helped me in 2017. I used neutral density filters rather than a solar filter to keep the color consistent. Also like the quality of the glass for ND filters. Going to test a variable ND filter for this event.
I am confused. At 1:41 in the video. You said you set the camera at 1/30 sec for bracketing which you stated 1/30 sec is in the middle setting of a 4stop bracket. In the example you walk through saying you can see more and more of the Corona as the shutter speed increases. If you are increasing the shutter speed the image would get darker because now you are underexposing. Then you talk about using a slower shutter speed of 1/15 or 1/8 sec to get a nice frame of the Corona. I am confused by this. Can you clarify what you mean here ? If you are slowing the shutter speed you should be capturing more of the Corona cause you are letting in more light.
Sorry for any confusion. Yes, as the shutter speed increases in length (longer time) you will record more of the corona. You can do this via the bracketing mode, or manually by going to a slower shutter speed, depending on what your shutter speed was with the filter on.
With the solar filter, ISO 400 allowed me to shoot at 1/500 sec, f11. At a slower ISO my longest shutter speed for the corona would have been 1 sec or more, which I considered too long.
thanks very much, Testing my camera right now, I will check my settings for corona, as partial, Diamond Ring, Bailys, Chrome and Prom will be at ISO 100, wasnt sure for corona@@StanHonda-bn7tk
I was planning to use the Olympus 300mm f/4 lens, maybe with the 1.4x teleconverter, but based on your comment at the end, that might be too tight, even without the 1.4x since this would be 600mm and 840mm equivalent respectively on FF. Hmmm…
I would not use the teleconverter. The sun/moon will be large enough in the frame. You may cut off some of the corona at 840mm and the sun will be moving faster in the field of view.
Which lens were you using? The 180-600mm lens? I've watched a lot of videos preparing for this and everyone uses different settings. Some have even said use 1/2000 until Baily's beads and then use a slower shutter speed like you did during totality.
For the 2017 eclipse, I used a Nikon 200-500mm with a 1.4x teleconverter on a Nikon D850. The settings I gave were for my equipment and the filter I used. There can be many variables. The shutter speed depends on what ISO and f-stop you are using. I recommend not changing the settings for the diamond ring and Bailey's beads, just leave it at the setting you have for the filter on. That is the simplest method and you will get good photos.
@StanHonda-bn7tk some have suggested using burst mode for the diamond ring and the beads because the transition happens fast and the beads don't last long. I bought a sky watcher pro 2i tracker to use. I had planned on buying one anyway for milky way pics.
@@carlmcneill1139You can use a fast frame rate during this transition, or if you can shoot 1-2 frames each second, that will work. The transition lasts about 20 seconds or so.
Thank you SO MUCH for this video! Following the tips here, I got some amazing eclipse photos today, and I’m in no way an expert! By keeping it simple, I got my exposures, plus I got to enjoy SEEING the eclipse, not just shooting it! THANK YOU!!
Short and to the point. Just what I've been looking for. I don't need an hour and a half tutorial. Thank you!!
Stan, THANK YOU!!! This is exactly what I needed. I have viewed many vids only to get overwhelmed.I realize I need to do some testing on my own, this is a great starting place.,have been waiting on clear skies...hopefully this lack of sun now will be enough to see the sun on eclipse day!! thanks again happy Eclipsing :)
Thanks again Mr. Honda. I’ve practically memorized your videos I’ve viewed them so many times. I’m hoping for clear skies and looking to put your suggestions into practice. This will be my first, and most likely only, Total Solar Eclipse.
Thanks very much for this help with camera settings Stan , i'm sure it will be very helpful when we visit Salado , Texas for the eclipse in a couple of weeks . I wish you clear skies 🤞🙏
Wow. I must have gotten a sheet of solar light filter film from Thousand Oaks that was more like ND6 than ND5. For those settings in 2023 October, I had to use 1/100s exposure and then I looked back at my 2017 and for the partial, once again I was on the order of needing between 3 and 4 stops more exposure. This time I am automating the process, so it became a factor. I am just going to use the Baader film which after I tested it, seem to work fine at your numbers here for the partial phases.
Great presentation! Bracketing exposures is a key. It's a lot more work selecting exposures, but it's worth it. That helped me in 2017. I used neutral density filters rather than a solar filter to keep the color consistent. Also like the quality of the glass for ND filters. Going to test a variable ND filter for this event.
I am confused. At 1:41 in the video. You said you set the camera at 1/30 sec for bracketing which you stated 1/30 sec is in the middle setting of a 4stop bracket. In the example you walk through saying you can see more and more of the Corona as the shutter speed increases. If you are increasing the shutter speed the image would get darker because now you are underexposing. Then you talk about using a slower shutter speed of 1/15 or 1/8 sec to get a nice frame of the Corona. I am confused by this. Can you clarify what you mean here ? If you are slowing the shutter speed you should be capturing more of the Corona cause you are letting in more light.
Sorry for any confusion. Yes, as the shutter speed increases in length (longer time) you will record more of the corona. You can do this via the bracketing mode, or manually by going to a slower shutter speed, depending on what your shutter speed was with the filter on.
Great video, why did you shoot at ISO 400 rather than ISO 100 or 64 if you could do that?
With the solar filter, ISO 400 allowed me to shoot at 1/500 sec, f11. At a slower ISO my longest shutter speed for the corona would have been 1 sec or more, which I considered too long.
thanks very much, Testing my camera right now, I will check my settings for corona, as partial, Diamond Ring, Bailys, Chrome and Prom will be at ISO 100, wasnt sure for corona@@StanHonda-bn7tk
I was planning to use the Olympus 300mm f/4 lens, maybe with the 1.4x teleconverter, but based on your comment at the end, that might be too tight, even without the 1.4x since this would be 600mm and 840mm equivalent respectively on FF. Hmmm…
I would not use the teleconverter. The sun/moon will be large enough in the frame. You may cut off some of the corona at 840mm and the sun will be moving faster in the field of view.
@@StanHonda-bn7tk thank you for that advice. I had not considered the speed at which the Sun would be “travelling” through the frame
Which lens were you using? The 180-600mm lens? I've watched a lot of videos preparing for this and everyone uses different settings. Some have even said use 1/2000 until Baily's beads and then use a slower shutter speed like you did during totality.
For the 2017 eclipse, I used a Nikon 200-500mm with a 1.4x teleconverter on a Nikon D850. The settings I gave were for my equipment and the filter I used. There can be many variables. The shutter speed depends on what ISO and f-stop you are using. I recommend not changing the settings for the diamond ring and Bailey's beads, just leave it at the setting you have for the filter on. That is the simplest method and you will get good photos.
@StanHonda-bn7tk some have suggested using burst mode for the diamond ring and the beads because the transition happens fast and the beads don't last long. I bought a sky watcher pro 2i tracker to use. I had planned on buying one anyway for milky way pics.
@@carlmcneill1139You can use a fast frame rate during this transition, or if you can shoot 1-2 frames each second, that will work. The transition lasts about 20 seconds or so.
Stan, you said "you are seeing more and more of the corona being recorded as the shutter speed increases" . Don't you mean "decreases"?
Good point. I'm sure he meant as exposure time increases.
Cool
Stabilization on or off…I would think off, however in testing it hasn’t caused an issue yet 🤷♂️
Whatever works with your set up. For the longer shutter speeds, the image stabilization may help.