As a novice/beginner DIY SAAB fixer- I would rate this as one of the top vids I've watched - your explanations and displays of using the tools on the different tasks is 'exactly' what people want to see. If ever I'm doing an engine removal (or part of) I will have this playing this (stop/start). I encourage you to do more vids of SAAB tasks using the same explanations and the detailed use of tools and your great camera angles which show what is really going on. Really well done.. !!
I now have a much better understanding of my 900 and how to work on it. This is the best video I've seen. When I open my hood I understand what's going on and no longer have apprehension to work on them (87 & 88). Thanks
One of the best videos out there for this. You have a gift for explanation. I just completed the engine out on the turbo and followed this. I have no clue how many mistakes I would've made otherwise. The only error I made was forgetting the oil cooler to filter lines on my turbo but fortunately they held strong until I stopped the removal.
Thank you SO much for this. You are going to cringe when you read most of this but bare with me. I work at a salvage yard. My job is to rip motors out of cars. In about the last 4 weeks I've ripped out 70 motors. This 91 Saab 900 Turbo comes in. Looking at it I thought...'Huh...how's this gonna work?'. First I realized I needed to torch the axels (btw...WAY faster than taking off the knuckle and such). Then I dropped it down. I zipped the nuts off of the passenger side motor mount. Brought out the sawsal and cut all the hoses. Now I'm looking at the driver side motor mount wondering how in the world to get to that. I torched off a few things that made no difference. At that point it was close to quitting time so I came home and stumbled across this video. BY FAR the best. On top of that the EXACT motor I'm working on (except this one is turbo but makes no difference for the purpose of things). After watching this I know exactly what I need to do. First I'm going to cut the hood off. Then I'm going to hook the chain hoist up to the radiator and rip it out. Then I'm going to be looking directly at the FRONT motor mount that I didn't know was there....until.....I saw this. My foreman was stumped when I asked him for advice. I'm gonna go in tomorrow. Get this done. Then ask for a raise...all thanks to you!
Awesome video. I'm about to pull mine and have done half the work, you've helped me navigate the rest. Only issue I have is deciding how to best establish a lift point at the rear of the motor since there's no factory point. Would have loved to see how you did that at the end of the video.
There are a few ways to do that. I have found the easiest way is to buy a threaded eyelet from McMaster-Carr - try this URL: www.mcmaster.com/eyebolts/thread-size~m8/application~for-lifting/ Thread that into the spot on the head where the AC compressor bracket was installed. I use a Harbor Freight load balancer between the engine and hoist, but it's not explicitly required.
@@jva8291 Thanks for that! I was going to leave the air conditioning bracket and compressor in place and just remove the hoses. I'll suss out the best options next week when I'm back in the garage.
Dont have to remove the steering knuckles. Just remove the lower ball joint bolts and pull the bottom of the knuckle out. Put somethong between the ball joint and lower control arm to hold the acle out of the driver. Dont have to remove axle or tie rod end.
Yes, that is true. As I explained in the video, I prefer to remove the knuckles because it costs no real time and means you do not need to worry about losing grease or clearing the axles on reinstallation. If the thing that is most important to you is time, maybe leave the knuckles in place. My intent is always less annoyance and more consistency in the operation.
@jva8291 you still have to pull the axles from the driver's in the transmission. My way doesn't cause any of the problems you mention and saves a lot of time. Plus it doesn't risk damaging the grease boot on the tie rod end, since you don't disconnect it. I think you misunderstood what I was explaining to you.
As a novice/beginner DIY SAAB fixer- I would rate this as one of the top vids I've watched - your explanations and displays of using the tools on the different tasks is 'exactly' what people want to see. If ever I'm doing an engine removal (or part of) I will have this playing this (stop/start). I encourage you to do more vids of SAAB tasks using the same explanations and the detailed use of tools and your great camera angles which show what is really going on. Really well done.. !!
This is the best video on pulling a 900 motor and deserves more views. Totally gives me the confidence to pull mine to replace the transmission.
I now have a much better understanding of my 900 and how to work on it. This is the best video I've seen. When I open my hood I understand what's going on and no longer have apprehension to work on them (87 & 88). Thanks
Excellent breakdown. Perfect for me since it's been a couple decades since I did this last. thanks!
One of the best videos out there for this. You have a gift for explanation. I just completed the engine out on the turbo and followed this. I have no clue how many mistakes I would've made otherwise. The only error I made was forgetting the oil cooler to filter lines on my turbo but fortunately they held strong until I stopped the removal.
Thank you SO much for this. You are going to cringe when you read most of this but bare with me. I work at a salvage yard. My job is to rip motors out of cars. In about the last 4 weeks I've ripped out 70 motors. This 91 Saab 900 Turbo comes in. Looking at it I thought...'Huh...how's this gonna work?'. First I realized I needed to torch the axels (btw...WAY faster than taking off the knuckle and such). Then I dropped it down. I zipped the nuts off of the passenger side motor mount. Brought out the sawsal and cut all the hoses. Now I'm looking at the driver side motor mount wondering how in the world to get to that. I torched off a few things that made no difference. At that point it was close to quitting time so I came home and stumbled across this video. BY FAR the best. On top of that the EXACT motor I'm working on (except this one is turbo but makes no difference for the purpose of things). After watching this I know exactly what I need to do. First I'm going to cut the hood off. Then I'm going to hook the chain hoist up to the radiator and rip it out. Then I'm going to be looking directly at the FRONT motor mount that I didn't know was there....until.....I saw this. My foreman was stumped when I asked him for advice. I'm gonna go in tomorrow. Get this done. Then ask for a raise...all thanks to you!
Great video - thanks for making it. Look forward to the next stage, getting the gearbox free.
Awesome video. I'm about to pull mine and have done half the work, you've helped me navigate the rest. Only issue I have is deciding how to best establish a lift point at the rear of the motor since there's no factory point. Would have loved to see how you did that at the end of the video.
There are a few ways to do that. I have found the easiest way is to buy a threaded eyelet from McMaster-Carr - try this URL:
www.mcmaster.com/eyebolts/thread-size~m8/application~for-lifting/
Thread that into the spot on the head where the AC compressor bracket was installed. I use a Harbor Freight load balancer between the engine and hoist, but it's not explicitly required.
@@jva8291 Thanks for that! I was going to leave the air conditioning bracket and compressor in place and just remove the hoses. I'll suss out the best options next week when I'm back in the garage.
Dont have to remove the steering knuckles. Just remove the lower ball joint bolts and pull the bottom of the knuckle out. Put somethong between the ball joint and lower control arm to hold the acle out of the driver. Dont have to remove axle or tie rod end.
Yes, that is true. As I explained in the video, I prefer to remove the knuckles because it costs no real time and means you do not need to worry about losing grease or clearing the axles on reinstallation. If the thing that is most important to you is time, maybe leave the knuckles in place. My intent is always less annoyance and more consistency in the operation.
@jva8291 you still have to pull the axles from the driver's in the transmission. My way doesn't cause any of the problems you mention and saves a lot of time. Plus it doesn't risk damaging the grease boot on the tie rod end, since you don't disconnect it. I think you misunderstood what I was explaining to you.