Alberto Verdugo I would not think those two concerns would lead to leaking fork seals. You could check the fork tubes and the triple tree while you have it disassembled and replace them if they are bent or damaged.
The easiest, although not the most precise is to roll the fork tubes across a flat surface, such as a table and look for wobbling, or uneven gaps. As for the triple tree, if you can, leave it on the bike and point the wheel straight. Take measurements from fixed symmetrical points on the bike to the triple tree on both sides. The triple tree would take some major force to damage or bend it, so unless there is a history of front end damage, it's likely fine.
Excellent how to! Every step is clear and unambiguous. Thank you for taking the time to put this together and place it here so that we can all receive the benefit of your experience and expertise.
Thanks man, blown my seals just the other day on my Classic and need to do the works....and now this is how a instructional video needs to be.....no b.s. just plain and clear instuctions...agian thanks for your time and effort to put this together....ride save.
thanks for making this video. everyone told me it was really hard to do. after watching your video, i found it pretty easy to do! the reason i did mine is because i'm installing a chopper kit, so i now have longer tubes. a side benefit of this is, i discovered that one of my seals must have been leaking, because the oil was contaminated on the right fork tube. i may not have discovered this so soon otherwise, i managed to avoid damage. now that i'm not intimidated by doing the seal replacement, i'll be keeping a closer eye on them in the future.
Thanks for these two videos. I redid my forks today with progressive forks and new seals all around. This is easy peasy with the right vice and some patience.
Hey bro. My fork seals have failed on my VN900 Custom. Thanks to you I now know how straight forward it is to repair them myself. Thank you for an excellent, well filmed and well described video. Be safe bud. AJ 🤘🇬🇧
Just want to tell you I own a 900 vulcan custom and from your video I am totally assured I can remove my own front wheel to get a new tire mounted. I'm only gonna have to spend for the labor of the tire mount. Thank you So much for the wonderful videos.
Very helpful video! Thank you man! I wraped my fork with black film that after som driving was in and out in the seal witch cuzed what i thing is a leak.. very messy evevry time i drive.. i found oil every where so i decided to replace the seals. Thanks to you man you made it very Easy
thanks. you answered two questions i had. i wondered if i couldn't just push my tubes up through my trees to lower my front end like i did with my road star. I see i can not because of the trim cap. the second was how to install progressive lowering kit. If i'm not mistaken, it will go like my sportster. get the front wheel off the ground and just pull factory spring out and drop in progressive kit.
58gennaro, you can lower the front and just push the tubes up. The plastic caps are lock in the tube, not in the triple tree. There is also a lowering kit on the market with shorte springs. From Baron ... 👍🏼👍🏼
great video, nice touch posting the torque values at the end. i have a suggestion for whoever is looking to service their forks.. @4:35 the spring is compressed, by assembling the fork, in order to install the bottom drain bolts... turning the fork upside-down with the spring inserted and putting your weight on it, I believe would generate enough pressure in order to torque down the drainage bolt.. also @12:44 there is some protective grease on the threads. that changes the torquing force for greater.. i'm sure it's not an issue in this circumstance, just a general observation. (super over-tightening axles puts unnecessary lateral pressure on the wheel bearings) be safe, have fun
I just found a tricky detail when torquing the axle nut. when I toque it, the right fork (the one with no brake) created a very small gap between the collar and the fork, very small but noticeable. what do you think it could be?
Sorry it’s probably a late question, but how do you ensure that the forks are straight when you tighten them to the triple clamp? Do you just eyeball it and it will self correct when torquing the axle bolt?
Muddy Fences perfect, thank you! I had also read up on spinning the front tire and hitting the break while having the forks loose to self align them but I didn’t even notice what you mentioned so it’s probably not needed. Thanks for the help to all of us DIY guys!
Awesome video. Almost identical to my classic. Question, why did you put the spring and upper plug in just to install the bottom drain bolt, only to remove again?
Hello man. I am going to replace my fork seals. I just have everything I need. So i wanted to ask you if you can tell me which side is correct. I took some pics to the fork seals. I will be very glad if you have the time. Thanks!
Hey Alberto. Most seals have the print on the side that faces up (top of the fork). You can verify this by looking at the inner rubber beads / rings. They are often directional and the tips should slope down [/ thus wiping the oil down as the shock extends. One last visual is the bottom of the seal may be open, and you can see the spring. Good luck man, I hope this gets you squared away.
@@muddyfences5559 thanks man. You sre right. One side has like embossed letters and the other do not. It has springs on both sides but the rubber beads are / with the letters up.
Hello, a video very well explained and well done, a question what is the exact measurement, to verify the level of oil it has, I am from Spain and my level of English is very basic, could you tell me in centimeters, thank you very much
It is to add pressure to the damper rod so that you can install the lower drain bolt. After the drain bolt is installed, you need to remove the top cap to add the oil.
only that i didnt like was new seal placement. much easier to put old seal on top of new seal and drive it home using a pvc pipe as a slide hammer. i'm concerned that your method could damage seal. awesome vid though
michael buxton The method I used wasn't my first choice, as mentioned. I didn't have anything else on hand, so I worked with what I had. I'm happy to report that it worked fine, and there was no damage to the seal.
HEY GREAT VIDEO, BUT I DO HAVE ONE SUGGESTION IS THAT YOU DO REALIZE THAT THE ALL BALLS BRAND REBUILD KIT FOR THIS BIKE IS ROUGHLY ABOUT $25 AND IT COMES WITH ALL THE BUSHINGS AND EVERYTHING YOU NEED TO THROW AWAY THE OLD SHIT, I HAVE DONE HUNDREDS OF FORK REBUILDS AND I HAVE NEVER USED ANY OF THE OLD STUFF, IT IS NOT A GOOD IDEA. ALSO YOU SHOULD MAKE SURE THAT THE FORKS HAVE BEEN COMPLETELY FLUSHED OUT OF ALL CONTAMINANTS. BETWEEN THE DUST CAP AND THE SEALS AND THE NEW BUSHING KIT AND RINGS IT'S LESS THAN $50 THAT'S WHY YOU ALWAYS REPLACE THEM.
@@muddyfences5559 Better tan paying someone else a hundred bucks an hour to do it and then having to do it yourself anyway, cause they where incompetent.
looks easy. Thanks man!
Alberto Verdugo My pleasure Alberto. It's not too bad if you just take your time.
the only thing I am worried about it is about the forks bent or the triple tree, that can be a cause of leaking forks :/
Alberto Verdugo I would not think those two concerns would lead to leaking fork seals. You could check the fork tubes and the triple tree while you have it disassembled and replace them if they are bent or damaged.
any advice on how to check them?
The easiest, although not the most precise is to roll the fork tubes across a flat surface, such as a table and look for wobbling, or uneven gaps. As for the triple tree, if you can, leave it on the bike and point the wheel straight. Take measurements from fixed symmetrical points on the bike to the triple tree on both sides. The triple tree would take some major force to damage or bend it, so unless there is a history of front end damage, it's likely fine.
Excellent how to! Every step is clear and unambiguous. Thank you for taking the time to put this together and place it here so that we can all receive the benefit of your experience and expertise.
Thank you for the kind words.
Thanks man, blown my seals just the other day on my Classic and need to do the works....and now this is how a instructional video needs to be.....no b.s. just plain and clear instuctions...agian thanks for your time and effort to put this together....ride save.
Thanks for the feedback. I am glad it was helpful.
thanks for making this video. everyone told me it was really hard to do. after watching your video, i found it pretty easy to do! the reason i did mine is because i'm installing a chopper kit, so i now have longer tubes. a side benefit of this is, i discovered that one of my seals must have been leaking, because the oil was contaminated on the right fork tube. i may not have discovered this so soon otherwise, i managed to avoid damage. now that i'm not intimidated by doing the seal replacement, i'll be keeping a closer eye on them in the future.
Thanks for these two videos. I redid my forks today with progressive forks and new seals all around. This is easy peasy with the right vice and some patience.
Good to hear Brent.
Thanks for a great instructional video! You saved me almost $400!
Oh man, that's awesome. You owe me a beer. Take care.
Hey bro. My fork seals have failed on my VN900 Custom. Thanks to you I now know how straight forward it is to repair them myself. Thank you for an excellent, well filmed and well described video. Be safe bud. AJ 🤘🇬🇧
You're welcome AJ. Best wishes and ride safe.
@@muddyfences5559 all sorted bro. Bike back together and everything smooth and dry. Many thanks for your informative video. AJ 🤘 🇬🇧
Such a good step-by-step video and you don’t fly through it like everybody else
Thank you.
Best fork seal replacement video on TH-cam.
Thanks Michael. I appreciate the feedback.
Instead of a pipe to push in the seal, try a pvc plastic pipe, works for me.
Great video dude! I will definitely do my own now 👍
Awesome.
Just want to tell you I own a 900 vulcan custom and from your video I am totally assured I can remove my own front wheel to get a new tire mounted. I'm only gonna have to spend for the labor of the tire mount. Thank you So much for the wonderful videos.
Totally. Piece of cake. Thanks Stephen.
I agree, a perfect and clear upload between a lot trash. 👍🏼👍🏼
This was very helpful.
Very helpful video! Thank you man! I wraped my fork with black film that after som driving was in and out in the seal witch cuzed what i thing is a leak.. very messy evevry time i drive.. i found oil every where so i decided to replace the seals. Thanks to you man you made it very Easy
Happy to help. Keep the rubber side down.
excellent video. very useful im about to do the same job and needed this kind of instruction.
I'm glad to help. Take care.
great vid dude. tks for the show and tell
Thank you.
Great video!
Thank you.
Thank you so much!!! Excellent job!!!
You're welcome.
thanks. you answered two questions i had. i wondered if i couldn't just push my tubes up through my trees to lower my front end like i did with my road star. I see i can not because of the trim cap. the second was how to install progressive lowering kit. If i'm not mistaken, it will go like my sportster. get the front wheel off the ground and just pull factory spring out and drop in progressive kit.
I'm glad it was helpful. Thanks for the feedback.
58gennaro, you can lower the front and just push the tubes up. The plastic caps are lock in the tube, not in the triple tree. There is also a lowering kit on the market with shorte springs. From Baron ... 👍🏼👍🏼
Thanks great video appreciate you man..
Thank you!
You're welcome.
thank you so much
My pleasure. Take care.
Thank you bro!
My pleasure Greggor. Take care.
Thank you. So nuch.
You're welcome.
Thanks for video. I would like to know what type of oil to use and to know how much oil should be in forks.
Jose. It's all in the video.
great video, nice touch posting the torque values at the end.
i have a suggestion for whoever is looking to service their forks.. @4:35 the spring is compressed, by assembling the fork, in order to install the bottom drain bolts... turning the fork upside-down with the spring inserted and putting your weight on it, I believe would generate enough pressure in order to torque down the drainage bolt..
also @12:44 there is some protective grease on the threads. that changes the torquing force for greater.. i'm sure it's not an issue in this circumstance, just a general observation. (super over-tightening axles puts unnecessary lateral pressure on the wheel bearings)
be safe, have fun
Great video. Would assembly and oil volumes be the same for the 1500 vulcan?
I really wish I knew, but I don't. Sorry.
I just found a tricky detail when torquing the axle nut. when I toque it, the right fork (the one with no brake) created a very small gap between the collar and the fork, very small but noticeable. what do you think it could be?
Alberto Verdugo That's a tough one. Is your axle straight? You could also check both collars for damage or wear.
Muddy Fences it looked straight. I will loose the botom bolt of the triple clamp and see if it fits by itself and then thight it again
Can you tell me please how much oil you put in? In the total cost
Sorry it’s probably a late question, but how do you ensure that the forks are straight when you tighten them to the triple clamp? Do you just eyeball it and it will self correct when torquing the axle bolt?
It's never too late. When you place the forks in the triple clamp, the bottoms will rotate freely. This allows the axle to align in the hub.
Muddy Fences perfect, thank you! I had also read up on spinning the front tire and hitting the break while having the forks loose to self align them but I didn’t even notice what you mentioned so it’s probably not needed. Thanks for the help to all of us DIY guys!
I saw a product called. Seal mate. It fixes a huge percentage of leaky seals. Check out the videos. I tried it myself and it works amazingly
It works, when dirt is the reason of the leak.
Awesome video. Almost identical to my classic. Question, why did you put the spring and upper plug in just to install the bottom drain bolt, only to remove again?
You have to put tension/ pressure on the threaded nut inside, so that you can torque the bottom drain bolt.
Good video. But when you reinstalled the fork, how do you know if it's on straight and not at an angle and ultimately having a crooked tire?
The lower fork tube rotates freely and independently from the upper.
@@muddyfences5559 thank you my friend. Your videos were VERY helpful. I'm replacing my fork tubes in a week or two. Can't wait to be riding again!
Donde te encuentras puedes reparar las mias
Hello man. I am going to replace my fork seals. I just have everything I need. So i wanted to ask you if you can tell me which side is correct. I took some pics to the fork seals. I will be very glad if you have the time. Thanks!
Hey Alberto. Most seals have the print on the side that faces up (top of the fork). You can verify this by looking at the inner rubber beads / rings. They are often directional and the tips should slope down [/ thus wiping the oil down as the shock extends. One last visual is the bottom of the seal may be open, and you can see the spring. Good luck man, I hope this gets you squared away.
@@muddyfences5559 thanks man. You sre right. One side has like embossed letters and the other do not. It has springs on both sides but the rubber beads are / with the letters up.
@@79sketches Awesome.
Hello, a video very well explained and well done, a question what is the exact measurement, to verify the level of oil it has, I am from Spain and my level of English is very basic, could you tell me in centimeters, thank you very much
Looks like it converts to 14.8 - 15.2 cm.
Thank you very much greetings
I have a vulcan 750 mod 2001 do You know how much oil need ?
I don't. Sorry
you missed a vary important step. Make sure the large washer is installed sharp side toward your upper slider bushing...
why did you have to put the top cap on and then screw the screw at the bottom? and first of all why did you take out that screw?
It was the only way that I could put pressure on the tube and tighten the drain bolt.
@@muddyfences5559 thank you very much, I didnt get it at first, I'm about to do my first fork ever, this was very helpful
@@dariustheman6934 You are welcome.
I assume you have the fork fully extended when you check the oil level?
Not for this bike. The fork needs to be fully compressed.
@@muddyfences5559 Ahh, thanks... I'm glad I asked then. I'll be doing this work on a 06' Vulcan 800 and they look like the same fork on it 👍
what was the point of dry assembling it and re-assembling it?
It is to add pressure to the damper rod so that you can install the lower drain bolt. After the drain bolt is installed, you need to remove the top cap to add the oil.
@@muddyfences5559 ooooooh thanks for explanation
No problem. Take care.
@muddyfences5559 answered my question. The manuals says need a tool, I assume to keep it from spinning. The cap and spring would accomplish the same.
only that i didnt like was new seal placement. much easier to put old seal on top of new seal and drive it home using a pvc pipe as a slide hammer. i'm concerned that your method could damage seal. awesome vid though
michael buxton The method I used wasn't my first choice, as mentioned. I didn't have anything else on hand, so I worked with what I had. I'm happy to report that it worked fine, and there was no damage to the seal.
Muddy Fences cool, I'm doing a ninja 250r this weekend. your vid help connect the dots, thanx
My pleasure. Good luck.
HEY GREAT VIDEO, BUT I DO HAVE ONE SUGGESTION IS THAT YOU DO REALIZE THAT THE ALL BALLS BRAND REBUILD KIT FOR THIS BIKE IS ROUGHLY ABOUT $25 AND IT COMES WITH ALL THE BUSHINGS AND EVERYTHING YOU NEED TO THROW AWAY THE OLD SHIT, I HAVE DONE HUNDREDS OF FORK REBUILDS AND I HAVE NEVER USED ANY OF THE OLD STUFF, IT IS NOT A GOOD IDEA. ALSO YOU SHOULD MAKE SURE THAT THE FORKS HAVE BEEN COMPLETELY FLUSHED OUT OF ALL CONTAMINANTS. BETWEEN THE DUST CAP AND THE SEALS AND THE NEW BUSHING KIT AND RINGS IT'S LESS THAN $50 THAT'S WHY YOU ALWAYS REPLACE THEM.
Good video, looks like your not a virgin at this.
Haha. Thanks man. Unfortunately I am no stranger to the garage.
@@muddyfences5559 Better tan paying someone else a hundred bucks an hour to do it and then having to do it yourself anyway, cause they where incompetent.
@@lawnboyfromhell Amen to that. Has happened to all of us at least once.
Thanks for video. I would like to know what type of oil to use and to know how much oil should be in forks.
Jose. Sorry for the delay man, sometimes I don't get notifications. Anyway, you can find all that information starting at 8:25.