Duuuude… At first I was like “ah another youtuber asking for me to subscride”… Immediately after the first minute I realised “this guy is legit”! I finished the vid and bro, I subscribed! Good job!
Thank you for the kind words, I appreciate it. I've got a stack of ideas for new videos but have been so busy working that I've not been able to get back to making them.
General question. I’ve been using Irb beams for years without issues. We switched mostly to optex beams and love them. I’ve got an Irb-Mon setup that’s failed twice on us and can’t figure out why. Driveway is 40ft. We install the beams and they work for a while. Then out of the blue they’re tripping on their own. We’ve reset the sensitivity twice. They work a few days then we again get a call that they’re not working. Get there and the boards flashing. Remove the cover and they work. So last time I used the cover to set sensitivity by placing the cover over 1/2 the unit while adjusting sensitivity. Any advise??
I've had horrible experiences with IRB's. They can interfere with one another, if you have multiple pairs, be sure to have the transmitters aimed in opposite directions so the do not hit the same receiver. On occasion, I've been able to purposely aim them away from each other to limit the cross-talk. I've also had issues during certain times of the year with the sun causing issues. My best advice is to use another product. My preferred beams are the Seco-Larm Enforcers, although I'm about to give the Nice/HySecurity BlueBus beams a try.
The SlideDrivers do not come with any remotes, you would need to add a remote and wire to one of the open inputs on the SmartTouch control board. Programming a remote then would be dependent on the brand of remote you purchase to use with the SlideDriver.
Hey there Sean, Rufus here. We have the Slide Driver at our Sub Station. Our manual release keeps unlatching. No one can seem to figure out why. In your expert opinion what are the possible reasons?
Without actually being there to troubleshoot your gate, I suspect that the drive wheels are contacting the stop ramp and popping the release assembly. Make sure (1) you don't have a broke wheel, (2) limit switch is out of alignment, (3) you slow-down valve is out of adjustment (if you have a model with this), (4) maybe your stop ramp is loose or messed up?
I am not familiar with the BEA LZR H100, so I am gathering knowledge on it . I like it so far. In this install you used the laser as well as photo eyes. Why do you use both?
Great question. The LZR H100 is used as a vehicle loop detector which currently does not meet the requirements for UL-325 Life Safety. So, the H100's are used to open the gate for Free egress and provide safety "loops" on the inside and outside of the gate (this keeps the gate from closing on vehicles) while the photo beams provide protection of people from being trapped/hit/dragged by the gate.
Nice job man im impress i have question for you im currently working on a Hysecurity SlideDriver model 222 from 2011 it only runs on constant pressure that was after a company ripped the underground cables off that supply the 208 voltage to the motor they were digging a big hole close to the gate my hC and Ho settings are set 0 momentary work any idea what else can be wrong? Thanks! New subscriber here!
Thanks for watching. If by "constant pressure" you mean that you have to hold the open or close buttons down to get the get to move, you probably have one of your safety devices in fault and it's is forcing you to manually override them by applying constant pressure. HySecurity Tech Support, (253)-201-2918, is typically really helpful and if you leave your number, they will give you a call back pretty quickly.
I use square u-bolts so I can adjust the gate up/down. I start with them snug enough that the rail won't move on it's own, but can be adjusted with a hammer. This allows me to get it "close" to right and then to fine tune it for the final position. In general, I use a 2-foot level on the drive-rail and speed square to align the drive rail with the notches on the gate operator.
Duuuude… At first I was like “ah another youtuber asking for me to subscride”…
Immediately after the first minute I realised “this guy is legit”! I finished the vid and bro, I subscribed! Good job!
Thank you for the kind words, I appreciate it. I've got a stack of ideas for new videos but have been so busy working that I've not been able to get back to making them.
General question.
I’ve been using Irb beams for years without issues.
We switched mostly to optex beams and love them. I’ve got an Irb-Mon setup that’s failed twice on us and can’t figure out why. Driveway is 40ft.
We install the beams and they work for a while. Then out of the blue they’re tripping on their own. We’ve reset the sensitivity twice. They work a few days then we again get a call that they’re not working. Get there and the boards flashing. Remove the cover and they work. So last time I used the cover to set sensitivity by placing the cover over 1/2 the unit while adjusting sensitivity.
Any advise??
I've had horrible experiences with IRB's. They can interfere with one another, if you have multiple pairs, be sure to have the transmitters aimed in opposite directions so the do not hit the same receiver. On occasion, I've been able to purposely aim them away from each other to limit the cross-talk. I've also had issues during certain times of the year with the sun causing issues. My best advice is to use another product. My preferred beams are the Seco-Larm Enforcers, although I'm about to give the Nice/HySecurity BlueBus beams a try.
@@AccentAlarms
I’m using optex lately and zero issues
@@philipwilkins3812 I only have good things to say about Optex as well.
How to i program remote on this machines
The SlideDrivers do not come with any remotes, you would need to add a remote and wire to one of the open inputs on the SmartTouch control board. Programming a remote then would be dependent on the brand of remote you purchase to use with the SlideDriver.
Hey there Sean, Rufus here. We have the Slide Driver at our Sub Station. Our manual release keeps unlatching. No one can seem to figure out why. In your expert opinion what are the possible reasons?
Without actually being there to troubleshoot your gate, I suspect that the drive wheels are contacting the stop ramp and popping the release assembly. Make sure (1) you don't have a broke wheel, (2) limit switch is out of alignment, (3) you slow-down valve is out of adjustment (if you have a model with this), (4) maybe your stop ramp is loose or messed up?
I am not familiar with the BEA LZR H100, so I am gathering knowledge on it . I like it so far. In this install you used the laser as well as photo eyes. Why do you use both?
Great question. The LZR H100 is used as a vehicle loop detector which currently does not meet the requirements for UL-325 Life Safety. So, the H100's are used to open the gate for Free egress and provide safety "loops" on the inside and outside of the gate (this keeps the gate from closing on vehicles) while the photo beams provide protection of people from being trapped/hit/dragged by the gate.
Nice job man im impress i have question for you im currently working on a Hysecurity SlideDriver model 222 from 2011 it only runs on constant pressure that was after a company ripped the underground cables off that supply the 208 voltage to the motor they were digging a big hole close to the gate my hC and Ho settings are set 0 momentary work any idea what else can be wrong? Thanks! New subscriber here!
Thanks for watching. If by "constant pressure" you mean that you have to hold the open or close buttons down to get the get to move, you probably have one of your safety devices in fault and it's is forcing you to manually override them by applying constant pressure. HySecurity Tech Support, (253)-201-2918, is typically really helpful and if you leave your number, they will give you a call back pretty quickly.
@@AccentAlarms Thanks I'll give tech support a ring
Quick question, when installing the drive rail, what have you found to be the most efficient way to keep it all level across the gate?
I use square u-bolts so I can adjust the gate up/down. I start with them snug enough that the rail won't move on it's own, but can be adjusted with a hammer. This allows me to get it "close" to right and then to fine tune it for the final position. In general, I use a 2-foot level on the drive-rail and speed square to align the drive rail with the notches on the gate operator.