Your video was very helpful to me it was great the way you explained each step as you went along. I took your advise on the spring compressor deal and purchased the whole assembly that made the whole job much easier. Also I noticed from your accent, you must be from the Boston Massachusetts area. I retired and moved from Palmer Massachusetts to Georgia but my heart is still in Massachusetts and it was nice to hear from someone that lives in that area . "Thanks Joe"
Jim The Car Guy saves lives: Literally! I haven't got a post elevator so I'll be working in the dust outside my house. Jim the car guy's tutorials significantly reduce the time I'll be rolling in the dirt, cussing and throwing spanners, thereby reducing stress, anger and cardiac arrest.
So glad you have that spring compressor. We have the same one where I work, but it's pneumatic. I don't work on cars, so I've never used it. Nice to see it in action.
One issue for the home mechanic...raise both front wheels off ground to do this job. Even if you are only changing one side. Otherwise, the front stabilizer torsion bar will lift the lower a arm on the jacked side. And you will not be able to get the bolts into the new strut. This does not show up for a pro like Jimthecarguy because he uses a lift.
If the new strut doesn't come with a new nut and washer, what type of nut and washer combo is ideal to buy for this application? In a future video, I may be changing a strut mount, but the struts are still good, so I will be replacing what hardware I can. - Steve
Great video. Thanks for the time and effort. I ran into a problem on my 2013 Outback. I fastened the upper 3 bolts in the engine compartment and then the strut was too long to fit back into the wheel bracket. I can't figure how to get it compressed enough to fit back in. Any suggestions?
This tutorial was very helpful but i made a mistake is that i took both struts out and disassembled both and left it to assemble them another day when my new struts arrive. However, doing that i mixed up the springs and forgot which spring is right, left and which end of the spring goes up towards the new mounts. These springs are very confusing. I noticed there is small white mark on the end of each springs. Do you know if the small white marked end goes up or down? How to tell which of these old springs are right and left? Plz let me know as its turning into a big headache.
Speedy recovery to you Jim. We don't mind you using air tools. I would suggest any serious DIY'er to invest in a battery or air impact gun as they make life so much easier around cars.
Hi, If the coil spring was not flush with the strut at the base. Lets say off by an inch, would it affect lining up with the brakes when connecting the two bolts. I have an issue when mounting the strut and it seems to be an inch longer when i tried to line up with the brakes.
Jim, just bought an Outback (100k miles) and know it will need struts. Thanks for this. Question: If you paint mark the upper alignment bolt will it be close on reinstall?
Hey Jim, I had my struts replaced by a garage on my Forester SJ front and now the springs creak constanly ober small bumps etc and from just bouncing the front by hand. What do you think it may be? Please.
Like your video. Ijust subscribed. Question? I had my 2001 awd subaru outback automatic 2.5 struts all four replaced. Now i understand what probably went wrong that threw my car off. After driving it out of the garage it started driving weird. While accelerating at 5mph to 20, the speedometer guage went to 60 and went back down. Another thing my struts were not compressed as the mechanic didnt have a compressor machine. It took 3 hours to put all 4. Now when the car is off in park. I pushed the car with my hands on the hood backwards while its still in park and it just rolls back while in park. Plus while putting the gear into park it makes a clicking noise. I had to have my car hauled back home on a trailer for fear something could go disastrously wrong. Could driving it like that just half a mile to a mechanics shop ruin anything? Any suggestions? Coming fr a women who regrets taking her car to be repaired in a home garage ( family member) without all the needed machines etc Also the engine light never came on.
having a problem with the four wheel drive system got vac to work twice but then it stopped the transfer case ingages but the front axle want ingage have the actuator T case and front axle sensor for the switch but it still will not engage in transmission fluid is running through the vacuum line from the transfer transfer case replace the vacuum actually and cable what else can be done it's a 92s10blazer four wheel drive 4.3ltr
Thanks for the video, Jim. I am looking at replacing the rear struts on my 2013 Subaru xv Crosstrek. I have the option of getting loaded struts so I was going to go that route . I was wondering if I should replace all four struts at the same time or is it fine to just replace them in pairs?
Hi, hoping for a quick reply. I have deformed the lower 19mm nut (on non-tapered bolt) in trying to use a breaker bar to remove it. Do you know what the proper name for this nut and bolt are and/or part number to search and order a replacement online? Thanks!
Jim, every new strut comes with a warning NOT to fasten the top nut with an impact driver in case it spins the piston and ruins the valve. I’d always used the impact driver and one time it spinned the piston. Shortly after that, that strut leaked had to be replaced. What is your thought on this? Thx
That's a funny story about the radiator. Everyone wants to save money but to go cheap is more expensive sometimes. I might be doing my wife's Dodge Magnum front struts so I'll see if they come new with the springs. I don't want to mess with those. I like my teeth.
Good one Wyatt.Let me tell you a story about that.I had a customer that came to me with the strut assembly in his hand .He wanted me to cut the strut with a torch because he rounded off the top bolt.I told him he was crazy that the strut was under pressure and had oil in it which made it into a bomb if cut with the torch.
@@jimthecarguy Hi Jim, rhanks for the reply. Here is a link to the ones/type I'm referring to. www.repco.com.au/en/brands/repco/repco-coil-spring-compressor-set-2pc-rst133/p/A9417621
sir don't you no that penerating oil won't help at all to get off a bolt. the stuff can't get in to a bolt, now when you do get that bolt out you see the threads dont have the spray on them. all it does is that it lubricates the top of the bolt, so if you get the socket on completley it will act as a lubricrant and you can slip off and you possibley on the floor
Yes I did my 14 Outback and was surprised there was no bottom spring seat, and the upper one is very thin. I wonder if that increases noise, or because the spring is highly compressed that there is no movement thus no noise?
I bought them ready to install with the springs because I don’t got the machine or the tools to take out the springs out. This is a great video
Your video was very helpful to me it was great the way you explained each step as you went along. I took your advise on the spring compressor deal and purchased the whole assembly that made the whole job much easier. Also I noticed from your accent, you must be from the Boston Massachusetts area. I retired and moved from Palmer Massachusetts to Georgia but my heart is still in Massachusetts and it was nice to hear from someone that lives in that area . "Thanks Joe"
Jim The Car Guy saves lives: Literally!
I haven't got a post elevator so I'll be working in the dust outside my house. Jim the car guy's tutorials significantly reduce the time I'll be rolling in the dirt, cussing and throwing spanners, thereby reducing stress, anger and cardiac arrest.
Happy to help
So glad you have that spring compressor. We have the same one where I work, but it's pneumatic. I don't work on cars, so I've never used it. Nice to see it in action.
One issue for the home mechanic...raise both front wheels off ground to do this job. Even if you are only changing one side. Otherwise, the front stabilizer torsion bar will lift the lower a arm on the jacked side. And you will not be able to get the bolts into the new strut. This does not show up for a pro like Jimthecarguy because he uses a lift.
Thanks for watching.I'm happy to help. Don't forget to hit the bell for notifications when a new video is posted
Can't you just use a jack on the side you're working on to lift it?
As always a great video. I am sorry to hear that you are hurt. I hope you feel better soon. You will be in my prayers. Thanks for sharing your video.
I really enjoy watching your videos. You are a great mechanic........keep your videos coming
Thank you for stopping by the shop
If the new strut doesn't come with a new nut and washer, what type of nut and washer combo is ideal to buy for this application?
In a future video, I may be changing a strut mount, but the struts are still good, so I will be replacing what hardware I can.
- Steve
Thank you for stopping by the shop. The new strut should come with the new nut.
Great video! Many thanks. I did my wrx using this video 😃
Glad it helped!
Great video. Thanks for the time and effort. I ran into a problem on my 2013 Outback. I fastened the upper 3 bolts in the engine compartment and then the strut was too long to fit back into the wheel bracket. I can't figure how to get it compressed enough to fit back in. Any suggestions?
NICE JOB DAD YOUR A PRO !!!! I HAVE BEEN DOING THIS SAME STUFF SH- - ! AND I CAN TELL YOUR A PRO !!!!!!!!!!!!!
Thank you for stopping by the shop
Excellent video, clear and concise,
This tutorial was very helpful but i made a mistake is that i took both struts out and disassembled both and left it to assemble them another day when my new struts arrive. However, doing that i mixed up the springs and forgot which spring is right, left and which end of the spring goes up towards the new mounts. These springs are very confusing. I noticed there is small white mark on the end of each springs. Do you know if the small white marked end goes up or down? How to tell which of these old springs are right and left? Plz let me know as its turning into a big headache.
wow, you are so professional. Thanks for the video.
Thank you . I'm happy to help. Don't forget to subscribe.
Speedy recovery to you Jim. We don't mind you using air tools. I would suggest any serious DIY'er to invest in a battery or air impact gun as they make life so much easier around cars.
I have an 18volt Ryobi 1/2" drive electric impact. I don't live in the rust belt and this gun removes virtually everything I need cracked loose.
Thank you It seams like back problems is all part of the job.Much better now.Thanks again.Jim
nice built in spring compressor that is super handy good job
Your everywhere Drew!
Hi Drew ,Yes it does come in handy with it mounted to the wall.
If I buy preassembled struts and coils do I need the machine to get the strut mount off/on? Or do I have to buy a new mount to avoid this completely
Just paid 350 to get a single strut replaced.. could've saved so much if I'd have just watched this
Another good video Jim, Thanks for posting it.
Thank you for stopping by
Thank you for this video!
Hi, If the coil spring was not flush with the strut at the base. Lets say off by an inch, would it affect lining up with the brakes when connecting the two bolts. I have an issue when mounting the strut and it seems to be an inch longer when i tried to line up with the brakes.
I've always wondered about this, thanks for the video!
Jim, just bought an Outback (100k miles) and know it will need struts. Thanks for this. Question: If you paint mark the upper alignment bolt will it be close on reinstall?
This is an amazing video..thank you so much!
Hey Jim, I had my struts replaced by a garage on my Forester SJ front and now the springs creak constanly ober small bumps etc and from just bouncing the front by hand. What do you think it may be? Please.
Thank you! Very helpful.
Great job Jim!
Like your video. Ijust subscribed. Question? I had my 2001 awd subaru outback automatic 2.5 struts all four replaced. Now i understand what probably went wrong that threw my car off. After driving it out of the garage it started driving weird. While accelerating at 5mph to 20, the speedometer guage went to 60 and went back down. Another thing my struts were not compressed as the mechanic didnt have a compressor machine. It took 3 hours to put all 4. Now when the car is off in park. I pushed the car with my hands on the hood backwards while its still in park and it just rolls back while in park. Plus while putting the gear into park it makes a clicking noise. I had to have my car hauled back home on a trailer for fear something could go disastrously wrong. Could driving it like that just half a mile to a mechanics shop ruin anything? Any suggestions? Coming fr a women who regrets taking her car to be repaired in a home garage ( family member) without all the needed machines etc
Also the engine light never came on.
having a problem with the four wheel drive system got vac to work twice but then it stopped the transfer case ingages but the front axle want ingage have the actuator T case and front axle sensor for the switch but it still will not engage in transmission fluid is running through the vacuum line from the transfer transfer case replace the vacuum actually and cable what else can be done it's a 92s10blazer four wheel drive 4.3ltr
Thanks for the video, Jim. I am looking at replacing the rear struts on my 2013 Subaru xv Crosstrek. I have the option of getting loaded struts so I was going to go that route . I was wondering if I should replace all four struts at the same time or is it fine to just replace them in pairs?
Love the pointers! The bolts where you had to use the breaker bar what mm size are they? I’m planning on replacing my strut this Sunday
Hi, hoping for a quick reply.
I have deformed the lower 19mm nut (on non-tapered bolt) in trying to use a breaker bar to remove it. Do you know what the proper name for this nut and bolt are and/or part number to search and order a replacement online?
Thanks!
What ever happened to the tire machine? Did the manufacturer fix it?
Good question. I remember at the time Jim was pissed with the way the company was fobbing him off.
Good question.No Coats will not repair the problems.So as you can quess that will be the last Coats product in my shop.Thanks for asking.
Yep no more Coats
Jim, every new strut comes with a warning NOT to fasten the top nut with an impact driver in case it spins the piston and ruins the valve. I’d always used the impact driver and one time it spinned the piston. Shortly after that, that strut leaked had to be replaced. What is your thought on this? Thx
Actually you need an air gun to install the nut you just can't over tighten it. Thanks for watching.
That's a funny story about the radiator. Everyone wants to save money but to go cheap is more expensive sometimes. I might be doing my wife's Dodge Magnum front struts so I'll see if they come new with the springs. I don't want to mess with those. I like my teeth.
Good one Wyatt.Let me tell you a story about that.I had a customer that came to me with the strut assembly in his hand .He wanted me to cut the strut with a torch because he rounded off the top bolt.I told him he was crazy that the strut was under pressure and had oil in it which made it into a bomb if cut with the torch.
Wow. Could you imagine if he did that without knowing the consequences? Scary. Thanks for the story.
Thanks for the great how to video. What is your opinion on using spring compressors that you manually screw down?
I would need to see what they look like.
@@jimthecarguy Hi Jim, rhanks for the reply. Here is a link to the ones/type I'm referring to. www.repco.com.au/en/brands/repco/repco-coil-spring-compressor-set-2pc-rst133/p/A9417621
It's a shame you can't get the entire strut assembly as one unit. I wouldn't like going back in with 14 year old parts either.
My thoughts exactly
There are several mainstream sellers that offer the assemblies for under $150. I just checked ebay because I'm looking at a 2000 that needs struts.
Nice job with the video Jim
sir don't you no that penerating oil won't help at all to get off a bolt. the stuff can't get in to a bolt, now when you do get that bolt out you see the threads dont have the spray on them. all it does is that it lubricates the top of the bolt, so if you get the socket on completley it will act as a lubricrant and you can slip off and you possibley on the floor
Surprised to see that there isn't a rubber spring isolator to keep the spring from making noise
Very observant.Your right some cars have the but most don't.Thank you for stopping by the shop
Yes I did my 14 Outback and was surprised there was no bottom spring seat, and the upper one is very thin. I wonder if that increases noise, or because the spring is highly compressed that there is no movement thus no noise?
they do sell d assembly
didn't mark the camber bolt!!