oki doki it makes me want to do some videos as well. But there's a lot of work, that goes towards creating quality content. And with finals starting next week I really shouldn't start procrastinating now.
I use a long reach optical binocular microscope. It is ideal for placing SMDs. I strongly suggest you fit a filter extraction fan to the microscope. Failure to do so will quickly result in solder rosin building up on the object lens. In my case I manufactured a filter fan, by using a small mains powered equipment fan and trapping carbon filter material between standard fan guard plates. The fan is secured to the microscope base using velcro pads. The smoke from soldering can clearly be seen being drawn through the filter material, curling away from the microscope lens.
@@cipher-1 if possible, I suggest you try before you buy. I can tell you a little about the spec of my microscope, and suggest a few features to look for that are important. My microscope has a *2 objective lens magnification with *10 magnification eyepieces. That's a total magnification of 20 for each eye (remember, too much magnification can be as bad as too little in this application). Like the better quality binoculars, one of the eyepieces can be focus adjusted to accommodate the difference between the eyes of the observer. The eyepieces also have an adjustment for eye separation ( width between the eyes.). Both eyepieces have shaped rubber shades to fit comfortable around each eye. The optics are coated to avoid reflections. The objective is fitted with a single binocular lens and has a 3 cm shade that protects the objective from accidentally touching the PCB. In my case that shade is made of a good quality black plastic. To protect it from glancing contact with the soldering iron, I have wrapped it in captan tape. The microscope focuses at a distance of approximately 8 to 10 cm from the PCB. The longer this distance the better, as it provides space to move the soldering iron and tweezers around the PCB, and clearance to keep heat and solder fumes away from the microscope and its optics. Needless to say the optics should be made of good quality glass and not plastic. My microscope has an adjustable position, 12 volt, sealed halogen bulb with integrated reflector, mounted. on one side of the microscope body. The halogen can be replaced with equivalent LED if required. The better models are fitted with a round light source that surrounds the object lens, and gives illumination on all sides, reducing shadows cast by components. In practice, the height of my light is sufficient to provide good quality illumination. My microscope is a long reach type, with a well made metal construction of powered coated and chrome steel, with several adjustments for hight and tilt. It is very heavy, providing very good stability, , with a metal stand containing the mains transformer and switch. It is on this stand that I have added a small, mains powered, solder fume extraction fan with integrated filter.. ( A very important addition.). The microscope body is mounted on a chrome steel tube extending vertically from the stand base. It has an adjustable catcher ring that stops the microscope body from dropping too far when it's hight is being adjusted. The focusing of the microscope is achieved with a rack and pinion cog adjustment, with adjustment controls that can be accessed from either the left or right side. Worth note: avoid touching the lens. Never clean them with chemicals in case it damages the coating. I only wipe the eyepiece lens with eyeglass cleaning cloth. I have never touched the objective lens. Always cover the microscope when not in use, to protect the optics from dust. Fit a flux vapour extraction fan from day one when soldering, , and check it pulls the fumes away from the object lens. Make sure the focal length provides sufficient space between the microscope objective/ shade and the PCB. Ensure the lighting is adequate for the task. Protect any plastic parts from the heat of the iron, using Captan tape. Practice a little with a cold iron to get use to using the microscope. It requires skill, and learned muscle memory, to manipulate the tools while looking down the microscope, and to avoid burning fingers or burn marks on the side of the microscope. After a while, when soldering, the safe path for removing the hot iron from the vicinity of the microscope becomes second nature. At the risk of stating the obvious, there are a few tricks to setting up the microscope: Adjust the coarse height adjustment, so that there is no possibility of winding the fine focus adjustment down to touch the bench top or board to be soldered. Set the catcher ring to stop the microscope body dropping below this point. Set the coarse height control, so that the microscope can be fine focused on the PCB tracks, or the top of the highest component. To compensate for the difference between the focal length of the user's eyes. Use one eye to look through the eyepiece that has no focus compensation adjustment, and focus the microscope on a PCB track using the main focus control. Then use the other eye to observe the same PCB track, and adjust the eyepiece focus compensation to bring the track into focus in that eye. This ensures both eyes are focused to the same point, at the same time. Adjust the eyepiece separation so the image of PCB,, as seen by each eye, merge together into one clear stereoscopic image. This gives depth perception, and is the main advantage of a binocular microscope.
The frame rate issue on USB microscopes is mostly down to lighting. If the light level is low then the shutter speed gets lower than the frame rate, and it has to start duplicating frames. If you can get the illumination up to 'task light' level, then you'll get the rated frame rate.
I went my whole life without a true stereoscopic microscope until recently. I had no idea they even existed until I got one. I thought they all split the single objective into dual ocular. Now that I have one I can say they're amazing. If this thing is even half as good as mine, I'd say anyone doing a decent amount of repair should own one. Mine is the Meiji EMT2.
Back illumination is handy for checking inner layers and reverse engineering. A stereo microscope is indeed a better option compaired to an usb microscope (but there are (very expensive) usb scopes that are as good) I use my stereo microscope a lot. If you use the microscope a lot too, it is better for your neck/back to lower your chair or raise the microscope. A second improvement is a boom. That way you can use it above every size of pcb, including those inside a cabinet. I made mine in such away I also can rotate it also around every axis so I can look under an angle to a pcb. This makes it more easy to find bad solder joints. Around 2:50, I think you need a better soldering station. I just drag a gullwing tip in one short move over all the pins and they are all nicely soldered and flow beautiful. Looks like your has problems with transferring the heat on things like a groundplane. (I use a Weller WS-81 and a Pace MBT-250) If you have a decent station try other flux or tin.
I have a similar microscope but instead of the backlight, I have opted for a much bigger and flat workplate. I also added an extra 0.5x lens (increases work distance and field of view) and a ring light (with four individually switchable sections and adjustable brightness) that can be mounted on the microscope by three screws.
Thanks for pointing out that a stereo microscope [versus monocular] is a necessity for electronics. I did not think of that aspect in specifying a 'scope for my shop.
The nicer one appear to be a Novex clone, the real deal is here th-cam.com/video/_6S51JIWNNg/w-d-xo.html. But it seem to perform well, so it might be a nice choice.
The back-illumination is useful when you’re inspecting for defects like bubbles in epoxy while repairing laminates, or looking for damage on traces or inner layers.
I was looking at both options myself and wondered which would be best. You've answered my question and can buy with confidence. Thanks for another great video.
depends on who you are i can work fine without a stereoscopic i dont use them at all atm i use my new andonstar adsm302 has many cool features and a guy on ebay sells filters for it also
Hey, Marco! Put one cam on each eyepiece, mix the two video streams side-by-side and use a 3D glasses thingy and a smartphone with at least full HD display. I have done it but in post production because I wanted to see how it looks and I had only one camera. One way to do it real time would be to connect two webcams on a pc, set a scene in OBS with the two feeds side-by-side and then stream it to a smartphone. Use something like kinoni to stream your desktop to the smartphone since OBS latency is huge for real time work (but you can always adjust the latency with absinthe). Kinoni works great but a camera like ELP is needed because webcams have their own latency - even expensive ones. The other possible problem is USB bandwidth. I don't have an ELP, but if you have two you can try run them together and tell us! One other solution for a high quality diy video microscope that I use is to combine a dSLR kit lens with a webcam (without its own lens). Make a box and attach the lens on the one side and the cam on the opposite. For Canon the distance of the lens flange and the sensor - in order to have infinite focus - if 54mm, but you can increase that for macro focusing. Because the sensor size of the webcams is way too smaller than that of a dSLR, the focal length is actually multiplied, since it is very cropped. The optical quality is far superior even for cheap lens, since the cropping is using only the center of the lens, where all aberrations are minimal. For increased focus depth you can step-down the lens beforehand. What I did was that I took a square prototyping box and a lens cap. I opened a hole on the lens cap and then a hole on the bottom face of the box to fit the lens cap. For the opposite face I used an aluminium sheet where I drilled a hole to fit the webcam flange (without the lens). The sheet was needed so I could mount it on the desired distance from the lens. Then I attached the whole thing on a beefy "third hand" base or whatever its called.
Thanks for sharing 😀👍. Next time you're solding SMD's then put the solder infront of the legs, and press the ion to the solder, an continue to the leg if the IC/resister. It is faster and more precise to give the exact same amount of solder. Best of luck 😀👍
Get a 0.5X Barlow objective supplement lens, this will double the working distance between the board and the lens and increase the depth of field. With more room soldering is much easier. It also protects the internal objective lenses from rosin and other corrosive fumes.
I have monocular vision and have always wondered if these stereoscopic microscopes are usable with one eyepiece. You've got a camera jammed in one eyepiece - is it any less useful (assuming you're sighted in both eyes)?
Keith Gable I'm guessing it's as useful as zero-eyed vision, since his adapter blocks access to both eyepieces. Otherwise he seems to claim the true-stereo design gives him the usual advantage of stereo vision at micro scale, providing one has it at normal scale. With actual one-eye vision in your face, you'll probably do at least as well with a regular one-eye microscope.
The matter in the usage of usb microscope and stereoscopic is the capability to use the soldering iron or these are only for pcb inpection and nothing else.Most of my job is doing with a magnifier glass but i loose the one hand for keeping it and i am worring for the dirt of the fumes in the case of usb microscope and using it only in the end just for the final inpection.
proto That would be a software add-on for the 3-D viewer in your preferred board design software. Wonder if Autodesk already has support for Google cardboard in the Android version of Fusion 360?
But for what? If Louis Rossmann use one it is understandeble, but for what an usual user needs a camera on his microscope? I think this is a nice one here, the only negative point in my opinion is that it is build like a classic microscope for labours so you have not much space under it and you can't swing it to side, but this is a point that can be modified.
if you wanted only a stereoscope and not an actual microscope, the USB one is better by a long-shot for two reasons: 1. costs significantly less than a real stereoscope. 2. you are able to move the lens around wherever you want, without having to worry about placing a sample on the stereoscope. 3. you have the ability to record footage from the USB microscope. though, i'd say the stereoscope would be a better option if you wanted high accuracy and were dealing with sensitive equipment (such as electronics) which would be damaged if the lens was placed directly ontop of it.
What GUI are you running on that tablet computer? It looks like neither Android nor Wintendo, but some decent Linux system, with a touch-enabld GUI? Which device is it, and what is its software?
It's nice, but I already have an Andonstar 301 or something with a custom mount arm and LED setup for fine work... [months later] ...Hmmm, nice. I'll buy one. [I'm leaving this comment to remind my future self: You don't need this thing!]
answer: neither. headband magnifier. there's good reason that jewelers and watchmakers have used them since the beginning of time. www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0015IS6K2/
I use a stereo microscope, normal microscope, usb microscope camera, glasses with binoculairs and a headband magnifier. The latter I used a lot before I had a boom for stereo my microscope and glasses with binoculairs. Now I seldom use them. But I prefer them over an usb microscope. The glasses are great but a bit heavy and I can not flip it up like the headband. That makes it more limited in use' I used several headbands over the years. The most expensive one was a velleman from 20 euros but optical and mechanical they all sucked. But I think a professional version with good optics and mechanical well build could make them unbeatable in terms of comfort. But I 'm afraid to buy one without the possibility to test it first. The ones I had all fell apart in a few months (daily use) You see me wearing the best one I had one on the title picture of my videos: th-cam.com/users/pa4tim
But before of that, did they just saw your channel and have proposed you a review or have you searched for someone to review it? Just because i would like to start a channel and i would like to understand how things work Thank you
I only don't see why you need so much magnification for just soldering. 0603 is perfectly doable by hand and can been seen trough a normal and simple magnification glass (or just with the naked eye). For smaller sizes you'll need hot air or and oven anyway and the result can be checked with these cheapo USB things.
I can do all of that just fine. But once I picked up a Mantis Vision I now enjoy it much more. Just as you can get from A to B in a Smart Car doesn't make a big Mercedes useless.
I'm with you, to check your work even a usual modern camera of a mobile phone is enough to check your work, it is the usual way I'm doing that like for checking new soldered connectors on smartphones, because the pins are often long and shiny and it's hard to see if there is a short.
Remco mate, thats exactly the point a smaller, more efficient car does make a primitive one reduntant, it only makes sense for people that feel worthless and need something expensive with a big blown up image against their inferior complexes. It's even more than useless, because if a big Mercedes hits the small Mercedes (Smart) the driver of the big one will have some scratches in the plastic on the front while the driver of the small one becomes mince.
I also don't see how the car example is gonna work here. Unless you mean that in a sense a Mercedes definitely has some benefits. I think what B Breeuwer is trying to say, is that there are no any benefits anymore. From my own experience I can also say that a Mantis is nothing more than a fancy gimmick to have. Unless you're REALLY going for the mega tiny stuff or you need to use it to double check errors. One of these mega cheap glasses are being just fine.
I drive a shitty little tin can car. Don't care since that is not my job and I don't drive all day. But I do sit and solder or inspect sometimes weeks at a time and appreciate the comfort of a good microscope. For the same reason that I don't sit on a cardboard box although that would perfectly adequately keep my ass in place. Good tools make for happy working, happy working makes for high quality work.
I lost it at 2:08 ahahaha Just one thing: the flux you're using doesn't seem to be doing his job, try a good quality tacky flux, you'll be surprised by the differences !
That's exactly what I did with my microscope, I didn't even need to print a part out, the stripped down web cam fitted snuggly inside the rubber eye cap. RESULT.
"no thank you... I want your microscope instead" 😆
Alex Steffan I can hear a microscopgest say ONE OF US ONE OF US
Marco's videos are perfectly suited for me. Only pure interesting info + some funny jokes. No meaningless talk.
yeah, I appreciate that: going straight to the point.
This looks to be the absolute cheapest, actually stereoscopic microscope on the market at the moment.
I'm intrigued - might pick one up!
You can get a Bresser Junior microscope for around 55 Euro. It works pretty decent for small pcbs
"No delays or low framerates on this one. usually" - camera moves back and the frame reveals a bottle of Absinth.... I lost it
oki doki it makes me want to do some videos as well. But there's a lot of work, that goes towards creating quality content. And with finals starting next week I really shouldn't start procrastinating now.
I use a long reach optical binocular microscope. It is ideal for placing SMDs. I strongly suggest you fit a filter extraction fan to the microscope. Failure to do so will quickly result in solder rosin building up on the object lens. In my case I manufactured a filter fan, by using a small mains powered equipment fan and trapping carbon filter material between standard fan guard plates. The fan is secured to the microscope base using velcro pads. The smoke from soldering can clearly be seen being drawn through the filter material, curling away from the microscope lens.
Hi. One friend want sell me a binocular microscope. But Wich lens x you recommend? Or how I can know if I buy this is good for soldering. Thanks
@@cipher-1 if possible, I suggest you try before you buy.
I can tell you a little about the spec of my microscope, and suggest a few features to look for that are important.
My microscope has a *2 objective lens magnification with *10 magnification eyepieces. That's a total magnification of 20 for each eye (remember, too much magnification can be as bad as too little in this application). Like the better quality binoculars, one of the eyepieces can be focus adjusted to accommodate the difference between the eyes of the observer. The eyepieces also have an adjustment for eye separation ( width between the eyes.). Both eyepieces have shaped rubber shades to fit comfortable around each eye.
The optics are coated to avoid reflections. The objective is fitted with a single binocular lens and has a 3 cm shade that protects the objective from accidentally touching the PCB.
In my case that shade is made of a good quality black plastic. To protect it from glancing contact with the soldering iron, I have wrapped it in captan tape.
The microscope focuses at a distance of approximately 8 to 10 cm from the PCB. The longer this distance the better, as it provides space to move the soldering iron and tweezers around the PCB, and clearance to keep heat and solder fumes away from the microscope and its optics. Needless to say the optics should be made of good quality glass and not plastic.
My microscope has an adjustable position, 12 volt, sealed halogen bulb with integrated reflector, mounted. on one side of the microscope body. The halogen can be replaced with equivalent LED if required. The better models are fitted with a round light source that surrounds the object lens, and gives illumination on all sides, reducing shadows cast by components. In practice, the height of my light is sufficient to provide good quality illumination.
My microscope is a long reach type, with a well made metal construction of powered coated and chrome steel, with several adjustments for hight and tilt. It is very heavy, providing very good stability, , with a metal stand containing the mains transformer and switch. It is on this stand that I have added a small, mains powered, solder fume extraction fan with integrated filter.. ( A very important addition.). The microscope body is mounted on a chrome steel tube extending vertically from the stand base. It has an adjustable catcher ring that stops the microscope body from dropping too far when it's hight is being adjusted. The focusing of the microscope is achieved with a rack and pinion cog adjustment, with adjustment controls that can be accessed from either the left or right side.
Worth note: avoid touching the lens. Never clean them with chemicals in case it damages the coating. I only wipe the eyepiece lens with eyeglass cleaning cloth. I have never touched the objective lens. Always cover the microscope when not in use, to protect the optics from dust.
Fit a flux vapour extraction fan from day one when soldering, , and check it pulls the fumes away from the object lens. Make sure the focal length provides sufficient space between the microscope objective/ shade and the PCB. Ensure the lighting is adequate for the task. Protect any plastic parts from the heat of the iron, using Captan tape.
Practice a little with a cold iron to get use to using the microscope. It requires skill, and learned muscle memory, to manipulate the tools while looking down the microscope, and to avoid burning fingers or burn marks on the side of the microscope. After a while, when soldering, the safe path for removing the hot iron from the vicinity of the microscope becomes second nature.
At the risk of stating the obvious, there are a few tricks to setting up the microscope:
Adjust the coarse height adjustment, so that there is no possibility of winding the fine focus adjustment down to touch the bench top or board to be soldered. Set the catcher ring to stop the microscope body dropping below this point.
Set the coarse height control, so that the microscope can be fine focused on the PCB tracks, or the top of the highest component. To compensate for the difference between the focal length of the user's eyes. Use one eye to look through the eyepiece that has no focus compensation adjustment, and focus the microscope on a PCB track using the main focus control. Then use the other eye to observe the same PCB track, and adjust the eyepiece focus compensation to bring the track into focus in that eye. This ensures both eyes are focused to the same point, at the same time.
Adjust the eyepiece separation so the image of PCB,, as seen by each eye, merge together into one clear stereoscopic image. This gives depth perception, and is the main advantage of a binocular microscope.
Your work is equally informative as it is peppered with subtle humor :) Excellent channel!
The frame rate issue on USB microscopes is mostly down to lighting. If the light level is low then the shutter speed gets lower than the frame rate, and it has to start duplicating frames. If you can get the illumination up to 'task light' level, then you'll get the rated frame rate.
I went my whole life without a true stereoscopic microscope until recently. I had no idea they even existed until I got one. I thought they all split the single objective into dual ocular. Now that I have one I can say they're amazing. If this thing is even half as good as mine, I'd say anyone doing a decent amount of repair should own one. Mine is the Meiji EMT2.
Back illumination is handy for checking inner layers and reverse engineering. A stereo microscope is indeed a better option compaired to an usb microscope (but there are (very expensive) usb scopes that are as good) I use my stereo microscope a lot.
If you use the microscope a lot too, it is better for your neck/back to lower your chair or raise the microscope.
A second improvement is a boom. That way you can use it above every size of pcb, including those inside a cabinet. I made mine in such away I also can rotate it also around every axis so I can look under an angle to a pcb. This makes it more easy to find bad solder joints.
Around 2:50, I think you need a better soldering station. I just drag a gullwing tip in one short move over all the pins and they are all nicely soldered and flow beautiful. Looks like your has problems with transferring the heat on things like a groundplane. (I use a Weller WS-81 and a Pace MBT-250) If you have a decent station try other flux or tin.
Thanks for the hints, much appreciated!
Your sense of humour is spot on - as is your content in general. Danke.
I have a similar microscope but instead of the backlight, I have opted for a much bigger and flat workplate. I also added an extra 0.5x lens (increases work distance and field of view) and a ring light (with four individually switchable sections and adjustable brightness) that can be mounted on the microscope by three screws.
Thanks for pointing out that a stereo microscope [versus monocular] is a necessity for electronics. I did not think of that aspect in specifying a 'scope for my shop.
Ohhhh the picture is just super sharp and beautiful... backlights is actually useful in electronics haha
AWESOME work mate... ohhh yeaahhh =]
The nicer one appear to be a Novex clone, the real deal is here th-cam.com/video/_6S51JIWNNg/w-d-xo.html.
But it seem to perform well, so it might be a nice choice.
there was a nice talk about microscopes for home use at 34C3 called "34C3 - Es sind die kleinen Dinge im Leben II" btw...
The back-illumination is useful when you’re inspecting for defects like bubbles in epoxy while repairing laminates, or looking for damage on traces or inner layers.
I was looking at both options myself and wondered which would be best. You've answered my question and can buy with confidence. Thanks for another great video.
depends on who you are i can work fine without a stereoscopic i dont use them at all
atm i use my new andonstar adsm302 has many cool features and a guy on ebay sells filters for it also
Yeah! I'v got one of these! Purchased under the brand of "Crown Optics" something like 8-9 years ago and they are indeed a must have in the shop!
Hey, Marco! Put one cam on each eyepiece, mix the two video streams side-by-side and use a 3D glasses thingy and a smartphone with at least full HD display. I have done it but in post production because I wanted to see how it looks and I had only one camera.
One way to do it real time would be to connect two webcams on a pc, set a scene in OBS with the two feeds side-by-side and then stream it to a smartphone. Use something like kinoni to stream your desktop to the smartphone since OBS latency is huge for real time work (but you can always adjust the latency with absinthe). Kinoni works great but a camera like ELP is needed because webcams have their own latency - even expensive ones. The other possible problem is USB bandwidth. I don't have an ELP, but if you have two you can try run them together and tell us!
One other solution for a high quality diy video microscope that I use is to combine a dSLR kit lens with a webcam (without its own lens). Make a box and attach the lens on the one side and the cam on the opposite. For Canon the distance of the lens flange and the sensor - in order to have infinite focus - if 54mm, but you can increase that for macro focusing. Because the sensor size of the webcams is way too smaller than that of a dSLR, the focal length is actually multiplied, since it is very cropped. The optical quality is far superior even for cheap lens, since the cropping is using only the center of the lens, where all aberrations are minimal. For increased focus depth you can step-down the lens beforehand.
What I did was that I took a square prototyping box and a lens cap. I opened a hole on the lens cap and then a hole on the bottom face of the box to fit the lens cap. For the opposite face I used an aluminium sheet where I drilled a hole to fit the webcam flange (without the lens). The sheet was needed so I could mount it on the desired distance from the lens. Then I attached the whole thing on a beefy "third hand" base or whatever its called.
Great idea, thank you!
The background music is Inconforme by Blon (instrumental). Hope it saves someone fifteen minutes.
The links don't work. Does anyone know which microscope this is?
The video quality of that small camera its awesome, and the microscope definitely caught my attention! will be on my wish list this year!
Yes. I miss mine. Must get new one now that you have made me nostalgic.
Andonstar adsm series digital microscopes are pretty ideal for pcb assembly.
Quick review. I like it. Of course I too have an el cheapo USB. So far I do not need a better one but if I do I will consider this product.
Cool. Thanks for sharing. Cheers, JAYTEE
The link seems to be unavailable, do you know where to get it or a manufacturer article number?
Thanks for sharing 😀👍. Next time you're solding SMD's then put the solder infront of the legs, and press the ion to the solder, an continue to the leg if the IC/resister. It is faster and more precise to give the exact same amount of solder. Best of luck 😀👍
I like your little addition to the microscope, just connect the camera output to a tablet or something and it'll kinda be like having a screen on it.
Get a 0.5X Barlow objective supplement lens, this will double the working distance between the board and the lens and increase the depth of field. With more room soldering is much easier. It also protects the internal objective lenses from rosin and other corrosive fumes.
I have monocular vision and have always wondered if these stereoscopic microscopes are usable with one eyepiece. You've got a camera jammed in one eyepiece - is it any less useful (assuming you're sighted in both eyes)?
Keith Gable I'm guessing it's as useful as zero-eyed vision, since his adapter blocks access to both eyepieces. Otherwise he seems to claim the true-stereo design gives him the usual advantage of stereo vision at micro scale, providing one has it at normal scale. With actual one-eye vision in your face, you'll probably do at least as well with a regular one-eye microscope.
Oh fuck yeah new upload!
Your links don’t work. What is the model of this microscope?
The matter in the usage of usb microscope and stereoscopic is the capability to use the soldering iron or these are only for pcb inpection and nothing else.Most of my job is doing with a magnifier glass but i loose the one hand for keeping it and i am worring for the dirt of the fumes in the case of usb microscope and using it only in the end just for the final inpection.
Which elp model did you use and why? They have several models which is has the best price point for such applications feature wise ?
I love your videos so much. They're so interesting and quirky.
-Justin
Thank you, yours aren't too bad either :) Kinda makes me want to get into colorful non-lethal ballistics ...
can you please make a silicon die inspection of a microcontroller , and explain its different parts?
the link to the scope does not work (anymore?)
Did you just power the backlight using your weller?...
Good catch! :) I had it plugged into a "master slave outlet" that I use for the soldering smoke extractor fan
Marco Reps ha, I had to double take when I saw it, I thought I was inhaling too much solder fumes!
Yah, nice bit of kit -- but let me know when they offer VR goggles so I can actually walk among the chips and traces of the PCB.
proto That would be a software add-on for the 3-D viewer in your preferred board design software. Wonder if Autodesk already has support for Google cardboard in the Android version of Fusion 360?
Cool, glad to see that such a thing can be had for that price!
Is this the cheapest way to make microscope with camera?
For low budget smd repair/soldering??
Good timing, i just asked about this in our engineer group and boom, this is the droid i was looking for.
2:09 i laughed out loud
An HDMI direct out microscope camera would allow you to view the footage on a big HDMI capable screen, at milliseconds of delay.
And you still wouldn't have depth perception.
Dual cameras and 3d glasses? :P
Just buy normal microscope, not cheap toys.
But for what? If Louis Rossmann use one it is understandeble, but for what an usual user needs a camera on his microscope? I think this is a nice one here, the only negative point in my opinion is that it is build like a classic microscope for labours so you have not much space under it and you can't swing it to side, but this is a point that can be modified.
Why does the speed of the intro change randomly? Maybe to sync up with the music? Idk.
Are you saying that the ADSM302 is a bad digital microscope?
Is the Absinth at 1:40 required when using the microscope?
if you wanted only a stereoscope and not an actual microscope, the USB one is better by a long-shot for two reasons:
1. costs significantly less than a real stereoscope.
2. you are able to move the lens around wherever you want, without having to worry about placing a sample on the stereoscope.
3. you have the ability to record footage from the USB microscope.
though, i'd say the stereoscope would be a better option if you wanted high accuracy and were dealing with sensitive equipment (such as electronics) which would be damaged if the lens was placed directly ontop of it.
1:40 I had that exact same bottle of Absinth, and coincidentally I bought it in Germany too ... in Olpe to be exact, I love das Sauerland. :-)
do they have stereoscopic microscopes that can view microorganisms with a 3d effect?
Hey Marco what camera did you attach to the microscope eyepiece?
They said they'd send me this one, but it looks like that has a slightly different lens? www.amazon.de//dp/B01MRR91I6/
Okay, thanks for the reply.. Love your videos, I watch them all👍
back illumination is excellent for viewing broken lans and solder bridges on smaller IC's.
What is the price FOR THE SCOPE????????
wa4aos *Dont be lazy & click on the link to view price*
What you need is two front illumination sources WITH polarizers filters
That Stone Island Sweater is fire
What GUI are you running on that tablet computer? It looks like neither Android nor Wintendo, but some decent Linux system, with a touch-enabld GUI? Which device is it, and what is its software?
it looks like as if it would be a raspberry
That may indeed be, but then the tablet size screen is kind of unusual. Or maybe not, there are so many different raspberry pi setups out there...
Video about it coming up soon. It's a pre-production Sunfounder "RasPad"
Sounds interesting!
Mine wont work, Says Error Creating Device Enumerator
I think the Ruihong text (core hung) means very astute or greatly farsighted
Cool, that would make more sense :)
What does the green, red and blue triangular symbol mean?
Damn this thing is amazing
Gee, what's with horrid soldering quality :P I'd get rid of the base and replace with just an arm to pan microscope around over the table.
I'll do a better job for a certain better PCB ... but it hasn't arrived yet :-\
Woww. Its 4k! Congrets.
Amazing affordable microscope.
Excellent
0:20 i have that thing..... works fine but only 600mA for the current...
It's nice, but I already have an Andonstar 301 or something with a custom mount arm and LED setup for fine work...
[months later]
...Hmmm, nice. I'll buy one.
[I'm leaving this comment to remind my future self: You don't need this thing!]
what is the total Magnification of this microscope?
20 times magnification or 40 times magnification for choosing,friend
answer: neither.
headband magnifier. there's good reason that jewelers and watchmakers have used them since the beginning of time.
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0015IS6K2/
I use a stereo microscope, normal microscope, usb microscope camera, glasses with binoculairs and a headband magnifier. The latter I used a lot before I had a boom for stereo my microscope and glasses with binoculairs. Now I seldom use them. But I prefer them over an usb microscope. The glasses are great but a bit heavy and I can not flip it up like the headband. That makes it more limited in use'
I used several headbands over the years. The most expensive one was a velleman from 20 euros but optical and mechanical they all sucked. But I think a professional version with good optics and mechanical well build could make them unbeatable in terms of comfort. But I 'm afraid to buy one without the possibility to test it first. The ones I had all fell apart in a few months (daily use) You see me wearing the best one I had one on the title picture of my videos: th-cam.com/users/pa4tim
I didn't achieve stereoscopic vision til the age of 50 so the whole world at any magnification is an art museum!
U$30.41 ..."I had to draw the line somewhere" .... U$ 143.64 done.
If I do a 3 minute video about a product...can I also get to do a review on that product....so that I can keep it?
Quick question that got my eye on: Did they asked you to review their products or did you asked them?
Hm good question, hard to answer ... They wanted to send a multimeter and a soldering iron, but I suggested the microscope instead.
But before of that, did they just saw your channel and have proposed you a review or have you searched for someone to review it?
Just because i would like to start a channel and i would like to understand how things work
Thank you
Yes, they made first contact
Oh ok thank you
I don’t even get to see the prices
That's actually really nice. But in my case would be a waste... I can only see with one eye. The right eye. :/
then mount a camera on the left eye piece :P
I would've expected a laser-etched miniature dickbutt somewhere, but I couldn't find it yet :P
Yeh, I've been getting a lot of complaints about the lack of dickbutts lately, gotta see what I can do about that ...
I only don't see why you need so much magnification for just soldering. 0603 is perfectly doable by hand and can been seen trough a normal and simple magnification glass (or just with the naked eye). For smaller sizes you'll need hot air or and oven anyway and the result can be checked with these cheapo USB things.
I can do all of that just fine. But once I picked up a Mantis Vision I now enjoy it much more. Just as you can get from A to B in a Smart Car doesn't make a big Mercedes useless.
I'm with you, to check your work even a usual modern camera of a mobile phone is enough to check your work, it is the usual way I'm doing that like for checking new soldered connectors on smartphones, because the pins are often long and shiny and it's hard to see if there is a short.
Remco mate, thats exactly the point a smaller, more efficient car does make a primitive one reduntant, it only makes sense for people that feel worthless and need something expensive with a big blown up image against their inferior complexes. It's even more than useless, because if a big Mercedes hits the small Mercedes (Smart) the driver of the big one will have some scratches in the plastic on the front while the driver of the small one becomes mince.
I also don't see how the car example is gonna work here.
Unless you mean that in a sense a Mercedes definitely has some benefits.
I think what B Breeuwer is trying to say, is that there are no any benefits anymore.
From my own experience I can also say that a Mantis is nothing more than a fancy gimmick to have.
Unless you're REALLY going for the mega tiny stuff or you need to use it to double check errors.
One of these mega cheap glasses are being just fine.
I drive a shitty little tin can car. Don't care since that is not my job and I don't drive all day. But I do sit and solder or inspect sometimes weeks at a time and appreciate the comfort of a good microscope. For the same reason that I don't sit on a cardboard box although that would perfectly adequately keep my ass in place. Good tools make for happy working, happy working makes for high quality work.
can confirm. absinthe lowers your frame rate significantly!
Can someone please give me the same of the song at the beginning of be very greatful
I lost it at 2:08 ahahaha
Just one thing: the flux you're using doesn't seem to be doing his job, try a good quality tacky flux, you'll be surprised by the differences !
You are right, I think what I used there is just rosin dissolved in ethanol ...
You should do a giveaway like basic tools
That's exactly what I did with my microscope, I didn't even need to print a part out, the stripped down web cam fitted snuggly inside the rubber eye cap. RESULT.
Interesting, so that’s the OEM that made my Novex AP-8 (180 € in 2006)
Can you ask them to send me one?
all is great!
So short!
thanks for video
To be honest , i don't care about the electronic but man you funny lol
Too funny! Two thumbs up
I thin maybe geology might be another use for it.
Thanks for the video, I definitely won't be buying this microscope! I can see why they freely give them away.
Bausch & Lomb Stereozoom 7
4 lyfe
Crap - way too expensive for small distance from working parts. Check out Louiss Rossmann Microscope
Oh no is that DankPods music?
kauf dir ein Zeiss..... da hastu länger Freude..... tolle Sendung nebenbei
Fuck, just 150$ for this beauty??? I'm going to buy it soon. Go china! :O
You crack me up! 😂
lol good video
"Usually" lol
Nice music
nice venge
My sentiments precisely.