I can't thank people like you enough. Thank you for taking the time to explain things like this. I know other mechanics might be getting pissed because you might be assisting in their loss of money. But I think it's absolutely beautiful that you pass on information like this and it helps people be more informed.
@@milesanhour I'll be changing mine in a few hours. Letting the engine cool off before I knock it out. But I've heard 100k is a good bet. My Hyundai sonata has 238k
Thank you, Brian. When I saw that on my oil filler cap, I immediately thought the worst. Checked the crankcase oil and it was clean and full. Now I'll replace the PCV valve on my "06 MGM!
First off, Thank You! My 92' Jeep Wrangler oil cap looked just like that this morning. My Dad was a mechanic for 30yrs, so I automatically thought coolant leak. Your video eased my fears by informing me about the dipstick oil looking great still, which mine does and that confused me. The short distance part makes sense. I drive it daily, which I know has helped it stay alive, but my commute is only 1.4 miles. Just back and forth for 1 yr. now. Your video reminded me what my Dad told me also many times, that you have to open an engine up once in a while. He lives 30min.'s away and visits me quite a bit. But you helped me maybe switch that around and visit him more and we could tinker around and do more maintenance that he loves to do and is probably needed. Thanks for helping an older Dad, Jeep and son out..
This video was EXTREMELY helpful. I live in Texas and we have had a lot of cold weather recently. I have been mostly driving my 2009 ford pickup and had been letting my 1999 Explorer sit in the driveway except for short little trips. The explorer was just given to me and I am in the process of fixing all the little problems it has so it has been a fun little project car for me. I went out to explorer this morning to check all my fluids, went to add a quart of oil (Its got minor leaks) and all under the cap was the pudding. I had seen it before on other vehicles but it still worried me, even though my dipstick was clean. So this video pretty much answered any question I had and provided me with a little relief. Thanks FordTechMakuloco !
Thank you for putting my mind at ease. I moved up to Washington State 5 years ago from Southern California. I drive a 20 year old F-150, with close to 300,000 miles on the 4.2 V6. I had never seen a car do this before (because warm climate). The truck runs fantastic, but I was beginning to think I needed to start shopping for a crate engine due to this. A friend told me just what you said, and it makes sense... thank you for verifying his assertion that this is normal in a cold climate.
Hey I have a 98 f150 v6 and the other day it started sputtering out of no where well I got a code for my camshaft sensor so I’m gonna pull it off today and spray it out to see if that does it but I went to put some oil in and freaked out when my cap has this on it plz tell me it’s not a head
Since I have retired I don't drive the distance I used to. I always changed my oil based on mileage. I saw I was at the 3000 miles +/-. Time to change the oil (almost a year to the day of my last oil change) I did NOT no about the possible damages that could occur by waiting. This has been very informative and helpful. I have always been on top of maintenance for my truck. I learned a valuable lesson today!
Same problem with my BMW E39 520i from 2001.no sines of overheating or other stuff which could mean a head ascent damage and even after the oil and filter change I still have the pudding under my oil cap.i just drive very short distances in the last time in quiet cold weather.still will do another oil change as soon as the summer starts!thanks a lot for the video,got much more relaxed after watching it!
Good info. My neighbor found this gunk on my cap. I was only driving 1 mile to work, 1 mile back. None on dip stick. I put an ad on Craigslist to sell it outlining this and lowering the price. No wonder I got so many bites. The condition is not as bad as I thought. Runs fine, never overheated, smoked or backfired.
Thank you for doing these videos. I was freaking out trying to figure out what this was when there was no water in the oil during an oil change. Thank you for sharing your knowledge.
you just saved my ass!!!!!!!!!!!!! thank you. I recently put my truck up for sale because after buying this 13 year old truck I realized I don't ever drive it but for short trips to work literally 6 miles a week. the first person to come and look at it took the oil cap off and found this. I live in Texas and the winter has been mild but the short trips I'm sure is the problem. Thank you for the videos. now I can sell this truck with confidence.
Ahhh thank you soo much i was panicking about my 1983 Mercedes 280ce project car because i thought the head gasket was gone because oil was mixing with coolant and then after a while there was no coolant mixing with oil and i thought this was strange then after watching your brilliant video i realised i did park it up for months in the winter and it must have been moisture . Im so relieved right now hahaha .
thanks for posting this, I had a panic attack when I saw this on my 5.4 scab, don't like seeing this in my engine, made a behind the grille winter front to help get and keep engine temp up during the winter to help with this.
Thank you, good info. When my Dad quit driving he gave me his relatively low mileage '99 LeSabre which he had used primarily for short trips in northern Delaware. It was pretty comfy, but kept going through catalytic converters.
I got that in my 5.4l today when checking the oil I don't drive my truck very much in winter, I don't have any leaks at all in my truck. Saved me from a heart attack. I take care of my truck well maintained
Just got an 01 4x4 pickup with very low miles (121,000) for its age and was told an older gentleman owned it. Dipstick and oil in the pan looks good but seen a small amount of sludge on cap and began to worry that head gasket or something cracked. Glad to know its just from condensation and not driven much. Good to know an oil change and good cleaning and maybe some oil treatment will most likely take care of it. l also heard, the brand of oil used such as certain cheap store brands also can cause this. Thank you for the video
Great video, over time I have also learned that a bad thermostat is a common contributor to "oil cap pudding" due to it not coming up to proper operating temp.
Yes that can happen in the extremes where it is stuck mainly open. Reason I didn't include that in my video is because anything recent with OBDII will set a P0128 code for emission reason and will set a light which will alert you.
When I had my 87 Ford Ranger w/2.9 V6, I had that happen a few years after installing the Ford reman engine. The block and heads were cast iron, the 2 piece intake manifolds were aluminium. Yep, had the pudding under the oil cap. The lower intake manifold to cylinder heads is a one piece "gasket." The leak (twice) was the lower intake eroded at the front of the manifold where the coolant exits the heads and goes through the intake to the T'stat and then the radiator. Took me a while to find it the first time, FINALLY got the lower intake manifold fixed at a machine shop. No more problems. The vehicle went to auction late 2016 (failed smog) so that ended it. Just wanted to pass that on.
Thanks! I have had this happened with my 2006 Tundra. I also think that the problem is exacerbated by the long filler neck that I have not had on other vehicles. I don't think it heats up as much as the rest of the engine. You video has set my mind at ease.
Obee Juan l have the same thing on my filler cap. I thought l had blown a gasket, no it's cold wet weather, very short trips every 3rd day and my engine also has an extended filler neck. Thanks and God bless.
Mannnn! Thank you FordTeckMakuloco👍 because I was about to panic when this morning I saw just what you showed me under my Oil Cap. Right now is not a very good time for me to be tearing down my engine to replace head gaskets and stuff because my funds is little short at this time. You really gave me some relief when you told me that it's only condensation if it's not the same on my dipstick, and it's not like that on my dipstick so I was confused my brotha. I haven't really driven my F-150 since all this rain we just got for over two weeks. I just didn't drive it for Two weeks. Thank you so much man, I'm going to get me a PCV VALVE RIGHT NOW. THANKS AGAIN👍
Not a blanket, a winterfront blocks off most of the radiator in order to retain more engine heat, diesels use them in the cold Midwest winters. Keeps underhood temps up helps engine get and stay warmer up here.
Thank you, you just confirmed my belief. My uncle was telling me it was a blown head gasket but i told him it couldn't be that because my 4.6 runs like new and doesn't have the classic smoke out the exhaust. Now he owns me a coke😂
I need to thank you for this video, I recently got a 2004 C-Max with this deliciously looking pudding but the oil is clean. Now I understand why it happened and how to prevent it since the last owner did really drive long distances often
Hi, I was offered (what I thought was a great deal on) a 1988 VW Cabriolet for $100. I was told by the owner it ran great 7 years ago. I had it towed to a mechanic that did only German vehicles. The entire fuel system needing cleaning and replacement parts. Once the car was running he told me the water pump and radiator fan needed replacement. He wanted way too much so I towed my car and got the water pump hose (not the water pump itself) replaced and the radiator fan replaced. I picked the car up from then second mechanic and it starts, idles and drives great. I've had it about 2 weeks and have been driving it about 1 mile 2-3 times a week with no visible issues. Then I decide to replace some little things under the hood. Turn signal lights, head lights, air filter, topped off fluids. Checking the radiator last I noticed the reservoir had no coolant in it, so I added about 1 gallon of 50/50 and decided to take it for the usual 1 mile spin. This time it did not start as easily as it did every time since I got it back from the 2 mechanics. It started, rough idled and died within 2-3 seconds. Pumped the gas peddle and it sounded a little better. 3rd time it started and as I was putting it in reverse and looked back there was a huge cloud of white smoke. Under the cap it appears there's milky white substance on the cap. The oil on the dip stick looks clean though. Probably a blown head gasket? Damn, all the money I spent on these 2 mechanics and both would not tell me this major problem. Well one kept suggesting I get rid of it asap. I think I'm going to buy the manual and turn it into a project car.
Saw that pudding color when I opened my oil cover and started to worry but thanks to you you gave me a piece of mind. I only occasionally drive it about 5 miles a day maybe a 30 minutes drive back and fort to work. Valve cover is starting to see some oil leak. It’s a sequioa. I guess I need to drive it on a highway once in a while coz I use it on local roads. Thanks again
Thanks for the info! Had me worried when I did a change on my truck, we live in CT but have had record lows for this time of year. Drained oil looked OK, thanks again. I drive 2 miles to work every day 😔 perhaps should take my bike lol
get a used electric car... that short of trip even a dead battery wouldnt be bad. Ive known people with short trips and it is bad on exhaust and catalytic converter too.
Here’s one for you. Changed PCV valve, oil is golden, cleaned out oil fill cap and the spot you pour it in, no coolant leak. Drive it pretty far, even did 4 one hour trips towing a trailer.... still gets really bad pudding. Like every time I drive it. I clean out the pcv and that oil cap every single trip
Thanks! You really helped quell some concerns I've been having. Had this pretty heavy on a 92' Mustang Gt,298xxx miles out of no where and was WORRIED. After some research and a few videos I knew I just needed to correct a few things. I'd bypassed my pcv,super bad idea. This was leading to HEAVY condensation in my crankcase and also creating a lot of irregular pressure causing the pcv grommet to leak. Also my oil pressure was becoming erratic. Ran a half can of seafoam through on a nice easy drive to break everything lose,changed the oil and reattached pcv with new components. She's running like a champ again. Lets hope my strut towers can hold together for another 100k. : )
298,000 miles! Wow good for you, you got your money's worth. From what I've seen on TH-cam comments Americans seem to run their cars to much higher mileage than Canadians.
I was flushing my coolant system and didn't tighten bottom hose and noticed that steam was coming from around my oil cap, so I checked it. When I opened it, out had a small amount of moisture and white buildup. I checked the dip stick and nothing. Your video confirmed what I was thinking! But I still can't figure out how I got tissue paper in my radiator 😂
Thank you, again!!! Never seen this before on my ford truck (216,000mi.) until yesterday (and yes I freaked ) doing an oil change. usually I take it on long trips, but the last 2 months or so short trips and it's been cold too. real stuff!!!
Thank you sooo much for this valuable video, the info you gave in just this short amount of time is very informing and has been extremely helpful! Thank You!👌 If the rest of your content is similar to this video you can count me in as another one of your happy subscribers!
I was shocked to see this on my son's VW MKIV Jetta, coincident with a coolant hose flange leak beside the coolant temp sensor. He had trapped air in the cooling system with mild overheating from that. I fixed the hose flange, burped the system, changed his oil, and the problem resolved without recurrence over 5 years ago. I didn't think to check the PCV valve. Then I tried to understand why the two would be related.... I suppose it may have been unrelated, gradually cumulative, but I've never seen it before in other vehicles. On the other hand, as some have mentioned below, perhaps it is from plastic rocker covers that aren't warming up as much as the metal valve covers used in the past. Alternatively, I also like the idea that the detergents in new oils may make this more common. Old style wisdom of yesterday is not necessarily valid today, and although I was worried about a head gasket leak no such leak every materialized.
10.21.17. Also......GM 3.1/3.4 & 3800 V6 Coolant leaking into the valley & into the oil pan, due to (L.I.M.) lower intake manifold gaskets no longer sealing between the heads and intake manifold!.......Major problem solved by using metal framed ones from Fel-Pro or Magnum. I also change the coolant every 30k miles or 2yrs.......You have a superb channel ‼️
Yep this can happen on any car if you make lots of quick trips to the market and the shit doesn't have a chance to cook out. But it's also seasonal so you won't notice it so much or even at all in the summer as in colder months.
plastic valve covers dont heat up as much to head temp as aluminum would. even when i drive long drives in cold weather. the moisture condenses on the cooler plastic instead of boiling off
Steven Tenney ...On my 1999 Ford Expedition in colder weather, engine up to operating temp and even after a long trip, the plastic valve covers are still just warm to the touch. I get the white pudding-like buildup on the bottom of the oil filler cap and in the top of the fill spout. During the warmer season, I don't get that. My theory as to the cause on these engines, is the low heat conductivity of the plastic valve covers plus the length of the oil fill spout further insulating it from engine heat. In the summer, much more heat is trapped in the engine compartment which then transfers to those components, helping moisture to evaporate easier instead of forming condensation. Those valve covers will now be hot enough to be very uncomfortable to the touch. Metal valve covers will be too hot to handle after a while even in the winter and will never have this issue unless the PCV system is blocked, the thermostat is not closing or coolant is getting in the oil. This condensation issue is seemingly the norm in engines with all that plastic and should disappear with the arrival of warmer weather. Just check fluids regularly, keep up with oil changes and you should be fine.
We had a '00 F-150 with the 5.4 It would get the pudding in fill cap area. It would get driven short trips 40% of the time. Larger iron block, plastic valve covers and fill neck. I agree, they don't get hot enough. I never see pudding on my aluminum Subaru ej25.
This also happens a lot in very wet climates, like the PacNW (Seattle area), when you park outside, and don't drive every day. My daughters Jeep liberty gets this every oil change, but no loss of coolant. Also, just installed a new PCV valve.
When you're due for and oil change and you have a lot of condensation add sea foam to your crank case and run it for 20 miles or so before draining your oil, leave the drain plug out overnight to remove as much as possible, I put my truck on ramps so the drain hole will be angled at the lowest point
Thank you! I got a block tester and tested it cold and very warm and fluid still stayed blue. No white exaughst. Have Mayo in the cap. I do indeed do a lot of short runs, so will look into replacing that PCV Valve and take back the $40 head gasket repair sealant. Have been scared would blow the motor!
I'm a Believer of routine oil changes and not missing any we bought a Ford Focus 2005 zx4 2.0 and we still drive it today one hour each way to work and back we are now three hundred and two thousand miles with no major repairs
Despite no milkiness under my oil cap, and generally driving in a warm environment, this explains why there is a general brown tinge to all the parts inside of the engine in my 1999 Chevy Prizm. I think I do a lot to prevent issues, always using quality oil like Mobile 1 or Castrol with Syntec. These oils, when I buy the extended mileage are looking pretty clean up to 5k to 5.5k miles, but when I get synthetic that doesn't have the "extended" design I only get about 4.4k miles out of the oil. (The oils are rated at 15k and 7k respective to my 5.5k and 4.4k mile oil change intervals.) I'm basing these decisions by how dark the oil gets. It's all those short trips. I'm building up water, and therefore acids because of living in smaller towns since 2005. The metal of my engines in a Metropolis looked much better. You know, where I was usually driving at least 23 miles to work, and I bought much more used cars and it was colder. Short trips really are hard on cars. I never fully believed it, but "proof is in the pudding"! Just don't eat it! lol I should have stayed under 4k miles the whole time (car has 170k miles plus now). FordTechMakuloco I had so much to say, I decided to write an article. I've watched dozens of your videos, but you really inspired me on this one. 1/2 of the article is here, but if anyone wants more, it's here below. carmilespergallon.blogspot.com/2015/03/despite-no-milkiness-under-my-oil-cap.html - I embeded your video on my blog to help you out. :)
FordTechMakuloco I got into your channel because I was thinking of buying a Ford Flex. I had one kid on the way not two so it can wait. Lol I've stuck around because plenty of things you teach aren't Ford knowledge only. It's more useful than that. Plus, you never know what I'll see since I start at my first full service shop this week!
I didn't have that quite bad of a situation. I think the coolant leaked into the crankcase after I shut the engine off after a long run. My E250 has a 5.4 two valve engine. Factory tow package with remote oil cooler. Simply, I found the oil cooler leaking water into the oil cooling element. This was just six weeks ago! Removed the oil cooler from the remote oil manifold, pressurized the water area of the cooler while under water with air. Saw bubbles coming from the oil chamber area. Replaced the cooler purchased from a Ford dealer. truck has just gone on a three thousand mile trip with absolutely no problems. No more collant in the oil. Oh, I use only all synthetic oil and all synthetic additive. Vehicle now has 278,000 miles and the engine has never been taken apart. I change oil and filter approximately every 4-5 thousand miles. Yea, I'm a 74 yr. old gear head from the fiftys - sixtys big block era still doing my own work.
Papasmurf7597 I have the same problem on my 62 Lincoln continental I also have an exhaust leak and can't find guidance on replacing it...please don't tell me I have to unmount the engine.
Thanks for making this video! I just noticed this on my wife's 2005 expedition. She only drives less than five miles per day to work. I figured the pcv valve was clogged shut. I'm going to replace it anyway and change the oil. I do live in Pennsylvania with harsh winters.
+Mr223wssm take it on a road trip, condensation builds up in engine, need to get engine up to operating temp for a good hour or 2, fuel also dilutes oil for running rich and can leave varnish and sludge build-up inside engine and and clog oil galleys and oil pump pickup screen if not taken out and run. you should also do some full throttle acceleration runs like you are passing a car to help keep injectors clear and functioning properly
I owned a used car lot for several years and owned many cars, and trucks. The only ones that had this problem were Ford products. I owned many GM, Chrysler, and Japanese vehicles, but Fords were the only ones that I ever saw this problem in.
I'm sure because of the Chevy Avatar and my name you really don't want to hear much from me but keep in mind I have tried Ford many times with Expeditions F350 6.0 diesels and had nothing but bad luck so having said that you have great videos good content and you wouldn't believe how many times I get asked this question that you're showing in this video I deal with used cars a lot and everybody thinks that that milky spot in the valve cover cap means bad head gasket because everybody's mother's brother's Uncle sister Aunt father is a mechanic!!!!!
This can be a mix of oil and water but it can also be caused by using a high detergent oil. If your motor never really gets enough time to turn the water in your oil to a vapor then suck it out of the motor through the PCV valve it can build up inside the motor. Several years ago someone tested this pudding in the cap and it turned out to be detergent from the oil so it can be more than one thing. The only oil that I have seen this happen with was Quaker State.
I used to pump gas back in the 1970's. I checked the oil,on everyone's car. The only time I found this problem I asked them what oil they used, it was always Quaker State Oil. I have never used that brand since that time. Let that be a lesson you can all learn.
Thought my ram had a blown headgasket too but then i realized the oil on the dipstick was fine and the coolant level hadnt changed. After watching this, sure enough everything lined up. Right now its winter and I only drive 2 miles back and fourth to school everyday. That combined with its larger aftermarket radiator it doesnt get to really heat up. Glad its nothing serious.
I get that yellow slime in my old Ford Bronco II every winter. It is easy to clear it up though by simply driving the vehicle for a couple of hours and that slime will liquefy and the moisture evaporate.
Thank you sir. I was starting to think the vehicle I just purchased needed a head gasket replacement. But the previous owner does not drive it much and the dipstick is clean.
Thank you so much!! I took my 1988 Benz 560s oil cap off and I saw a pudding but nothing on the cams or on my dipstick and my coolant has not gone down at all, I was freaking out until I read that this was a very common problem and I saw this and that's exactly what mine looks like. I was just worried cause my other Benz ( my daily ) did have that
Subscribed because i drive an 03 MGM and see that slight whitness around the fill spot you were talking about. Come to my surprise, theres the engine bay of my car in your video and i figured it was nothing because its cold and i dont drive the car long distances. I feel better now.
2002 ranger did this.... it's fine. Completely natural for Ford's to do crazy sit, I have to turn the radio off before I start the car or it starts rough, only trick I found that works.
I hadnt done my oil change for a bit and after i had an oil change the truck starting stalling .i had anti freeze in 2 cylinders and milky oil on my oil cap.
yes thank you I did a oil change today and I saw some of this under my oil cap I do live in canada and in the morning time I do make short trips to work. I thought it was a head gasket but I have none of the other sings what you said in your video.
Another tip I use when checking the oil cap Look inside of it and not just the cap, if there is none of the milky stuff at the bottom it's the moisture, if there is milkey stuff at the bottom most likely a blown head gasket, if you just see oil your good, or check the dip stick, if the dip stick has the milky stuff to that's very bad if it doesn't then your good.
My 2002 F150 old PVC Hose was leaking around the Intake , replaced it , no more Pudding . Be careful , the Heater core has plastic Quick couplers that break of very easily , best to do it when the Motor is cool to avoid getting a possible serious scalding hot Radiator coolant Burn !!!
I found this stuff on the upper part of my dipstick. The oil was actually clear on the part where you look and see if it's full or low. I nearly shit a brick.
hulk hogan actually it does matter always let a motor warm up to operating temperature. You get the most engine wear when engine is cold. Just let it warm up unless your the person who would rather have car payments and trades it in every 5-7 years. My cars I usually get rid of them around 300k and they still run great.
You don't need to warm up your car for 20 minutes before you drive but it is helpful if the temp at least starts to read on the gauge before you get going. As mentioned before, the vehicle does warm up a lot faster when under load. At least get to normal operating temperature before you shut it off though.
I have a little 4cylinder Mazda pickup, and I JUST noticed my oil cap has a little milky gunk on it. I pulled my PCV valve and it had the white gunk inside of it too. It ONLY started to happen to me since winter started here in Oregon. The oil when I check it is nice and gold even when cold, but the oil cap and pcv valve always have some moisture in them. And the little tube on top of the valve cover running to my airbox ontop of my carb is getting this moisture too. My coolant did drop a little over the last couple months, but I tightened up some hoses and it stopped losing coolant....coolant is still green, no signs of milkiness. Whats your opinion?? I work like 3 miles from my house, and don't travel out of town much, mostly in town trips, but its my daily driver
Oh yeah just happened on my 65k mile 350z I drive 0.3 miles to work everyday, I absolutely freaked out 😭 cap was milky and caked around that area, I drained the oil and it was cleaned so I flushed 2 new oils through it and did a motor oil flush 😁
I've owned 3 Ford Taurus with the DOHC engine, and all of them made pudding in the cap....didn't matter what oil I ran or how far I drove. Just something about that motor. They all ran to over 200k before I sold them, meh.
This happened to our 2001 F-250 with the 6.8L V10 during below zero temps and the moisture froze the baffle off the valve cover for the pcv. went out and started the truck and heard the baffle getting thrown around, pulled the cover off halfway and removed the baffle
I noticed this with my truck today, because I only drive 5 minutes to work everyday. I thought it was a blown head gasket because I was also loosing coolant, but wheb I changed my oil I noticed coolant leaking externally from my radiator. My oil was free of this butterscotch colour but I did notice a tiny bit of it on my dip stick the other day, I'm concerned about my truck.
Hi, I have the exact problem on my 2001 VW Golf GLS 2.0L engine. I only drive this 14-yr old small car to train station a mile from my house, so that I don't need to park my better car at the public parking lot. It is 2 miles round-trip daily and I agreed that you are correct about daily short trips caused this issue. It did freak me out when I opened the oil cap and see all the thick pudding, but your video helped me felt a lot better now. My coolant level never drops and my dipstick doesn't have any of the pudding. However, I will follow your advice and change oil every 3-4 months even it is only 200 miles driven in 3 months. I do have a question. I live in San Francisco Bay Area and it is not every cold here in the winter, about only 38-40 degree in the winter morning. Will it matter how cold it is? Or short trip is the main culprit in my case? Thank you for all your help! Liked your videos.
A synthetic? I have 212,000 on my 5.4 L 3 valve engine. I have always run high quality, high detergent motor oil. If I switch to a synthetic, like Royal Purple, won't that risk contamination in valve train oil passages that serve to shorten engine life? Will the synthetic oil compromise piston clearance on high mileage engines? I really appreciate your videos. They answer questions on how to approach a repair my Expedition.
I see that pudding effect more so on vehicles with PLASTIC valve covers and / or PLASTIC intake manifolds.. worst place to have plastic in / on an engine.
I can't thank people like you enough. Thank you for taking the time to explain things like this. I know other mechanics might be getting pissed because you might be assisting in their loss of money. But I think it's absolutely beautiful that you pass on information like this and it helps people be more informed.
I'm a retired lifetime Ford tech...I love your channel it's the most accurate info out there
R C Robertson Yes he is really good on his information
How often do you recommend replacing a PCV? 2010 Passat 100,000 miles 2.0 TSI never been changed. Thank you.
yes he does an awesome job thanks for all you do
@@milesanhour I'll be changing mine in a few hours. Letting the engine cool off before I knock it out. But I've heard 100k is a good bet. My Hyundai sonata has 238k
@@OutlawEntertainmentlmc At 300k you could have many problems but if the miss began after secondary ignition repairs...I would look there first
Thank you, Brian. When I saw that on my oil filler cap, I immediately thought the worst. Checked the crankcase oil and it was clean and full. Now I'll replace the PCV valve on my "06 MGM!
First off, Thank You! My 92' Jeep Wrangler oil cap looked just like that this morning. My Dad was a mechanic for 30yrs, so I automatically thought coolant leak. Your video eased my fears by informing me about the dipstick oil looking great still, which mine does and that confused me. The short distance part makes sense. I drive it daily, which I know has helped it stay alive, but my commute is only 1.4 miles. Just back and forth for 1 yr. now. Your video reminded me what my Dad told me also many times, that you have to open an engine up once in a while. He lives 30min.'s away and visits me quite a bit. But you helped me maybe switch that around and visit him more and we could tinker around and do more maintenance that he loves to do and is probably needed. Thanks for helping an older Dad, Jeep and son out..
This video was EXTREMELY helpful. I live in Texas and we have had a lot of cold weather recently. I have been mostly driving my 2009 ford pickup and had been letting my 1999 Explorer sit in the driveway except for short little trips. The explorer was just given to me and I am in the process of fixing all the little problems it has so it has been a fun little project car for me. I went out to explorer this morning to check all my fluids, went to add a quart of oil (Its got minor leaks) and all under the cap was the pudding. I had seen it before on other vehicles but it still worried me, even though my dipstick was clean. So this video pretty much answered any question I had and provided me with a little relief. Thanks FordTechMakuloco !
Thank you for putting my mind at ease. I moved up to Washington State 5 years ago from Southern California. I drive a 20 year old F-150, with close to 300,000 miles on the 4.2 V6. I had never seen a car do this before (because warm climate). The truck runs fantastic, but I was beginning to think I needed to start shopping for a crate engine due to this. A friend told me just what you said, and it makes sense... thank you for verifying his assertion that this is normal in a cold climate.
Hey I have a 98 f150 v6 and the other day it started sputtering out of no where well I got a code for my camshaft sensor so I’m gonna pull it off today and spray it out to see if that does it but I went to put some oil in and freaked out when my cap has this on it plz tell me it’s not a head
@@kathyvarnell5407 One year later, still not a problem. It happens more in the winter.
Since I have retired I don't drive the distance I used to. I always changed my oil based on mileage. I saw I was at the 3000 miles +/-. Time to change the oil (almost a year to the day of my last oil change) I did NOT no about the possible damages that could occur by waiting. This has been very informative and helpful. I have always been on top of maintenance for my truck. I learned a valuable lesson today!
Same problem with my BMW E39 520i from 2001.no
sines of overheating or other stuff which could mean a head ascent
damage and even after the oil and filter change I still have the pudding
under my oil cap.i just drive very short distances in the last time in
quiet cold weather.still will do another oil change as soon as the
summer starts!thanks a lot for the video,got much more relaxed after
watching it!
I’m so happy I watched this! I about had a panic attack when I seen the milky residue on my oil cap.
Good info. My neighbor found this gunk on my cap. I was only driving 1 mile to work, 1 mile back. None on dip stick. I put an ad on Craigslist to sell it outlining this and lowering the price. No wonder I got so many bites. The condition is not as bad as I thought. Runs fine, never overheated, smoked or backfired.
Sounds like I just need a oil change. I was worried it was the head gasket.
Thank you so much for the info.
Even though it’s old this vid saved my life
i think you just saved me from a heart attack!😁
head gasket hahahahah
ramiro ochoa that’s what I thought was going out on my 350z 😂 but I live a mile from work so this video made me feel a lot better.
Me too. I was already pricing head gasket kits..
samething to me
@///AMG same problem here. Rattling noise when accelerating. But I can see my oil leaking
Thank you for doing these videos. I was freaking out trying to figure out what this was when there was no water in the oil during an oil change.
Thank you for sharing your knowledge.
you just saved my ass!!!!!!!!!!!!! thank you. I recently put my truck up for sale because after buying this 13 year old truck I realized I don't ever drive it but for short trips to work literally 6 miles a week. the first person to come and look at it took the oil cap off and found this. I live in Texas and the winter has been mild but the short trips I'm sure is the problem. Thank you for the videos. now I can sell this truck with confidence.
Ahhh thank you soo much i was panicking about my 1983 Mercedes 280ce project car because i thought the head gasket was gone because oil was mixing with coolant and then after a while there was no coolant mixing with oil and i thought this was strange then after watching your brilliant video i realised i did park it up for months in the winter and it must have been moisture . Im so relieved right now hahaha .
thanks for posting this, I had a panic attack when I saw this on my 5.4 scab, don't like seeing this in my engine, made a behind the grille winter front to help get and keep engine temp up during the winter to help with this.
panic attack??... dude its just a f@#!ing CAR!
Marek Sumguy cars ain't cheap, had never seen this in any other engines I've run, had no clue what it was till I saw this video.
Marek Sumguy he even put a blanket on it 😂
blanket?... what?
I was a bit worried too when I saw this on my Vic. Good thing I found this video before I started losing sleep.
Best channel for ford repairs!!
Thank you so much . That explains every thing. You deserve 1.000.000 + subscribers
Thank you, good info. When my Dad quit driving he gave me his relatively low mileage '99 LeSabre which he had used primarily for short trips in northern Delaware. It was pretty comfy, but kept going through catalytic converters.
I got that in my 5.4l today when checking the oil I don't drive my truck very much in winter, I don't have any leaks at all in my truck. Saved me from a heart attack. I take care of my truck well maintained
Just got an 01 4x4 pickup with very low miles (121,000) for its age and was told an older gentleman owned it. Dipstick and oil in the pan looks good but seen a small amount of sludge on cap and began to worry that head gasket or something cracked. Glad to know its just from condensation and not driven much. Good to know an oil change and good cleaning and maybe some oil treatment will most likely take care of it. l also heard, the brand of oil used such as certain cheap store brands also can cause this.
Thank you for the video
Turns out it was a bad pcv valve and -30 temp for me. I think this vid has prevented more heart attacks than healthy eating lol.
Great video,
over time I have also learned that a bad thermostat is a common contributor to "oil cap pudding" due to it not coming up to proper operating temp.
Yes that can happen in the extremes where it is stuck mainly open. Reason I didn't include that in my video is because anything recent with OBDII will set a P0128 code for emission reason and will set a light which will alert you.
When I had my 87 Ford Ranger w/2.9 V6, I had that happen a few years after installing the Ford reman engine. The block and heads were cast iron, the 2 piece intake manifolds were aluminium.
Yep, had the pudding under the oil cap.
The lower intake manifold to cylinder heads is a one piece "gasket."
The leak (twice) was the lower intake eroded at the front of the manifold where the coolant exits the heads and goes through the intake to the T'stat and then the radiator. Took me a while to find it the first time, FINALLY got the lower intake manifold fixed at a machine shop. No more problems. The vehicle went to auction late 2016 (failed smog) so that ended it. Just wanted to pass that on.
Thanks! I have had this happened with my 2006 Tundra. I also think that the problem is exacerbated by the long filler neck that I have not had on other vehicles. I don't think it heats up as much as the rest of the engine. You video has set my mind at ease.
Obee Juan l have the same thing on my filler cap. I thought l had blown a gasket, no it's cold wet weather, very short trips every 3rd day and my engine also has an extended filler neck. Thanks and God bless.
Mannnn! Thank you FordTeckMakuloco👍 because I was about to panic when this morning I saw just what you showed me under my Oil Cap. Right now is not a very good time for me to be tearing down my engine to replace head gaskets and stuff because my funds is little short at this time. You really gave me some relief when you told me that it's only condensation if it's not the same on my dipstick, and it's not like that on my dipstick so I was confused my brotha. I haven't really driven my F-150 since all this rain we just got for over two weeks. I just didn't drive it for Two weeks. Thank you so much man, I'm going to get me a PCV VALVE RIGHT NOW. THANKS AGAIN👍
Not a blanket, a winterfront blocks off most of the radiator in order to retain more engine heat, diesels use them in the cold Midwest winters. Keeps underhood temps up helps engine get and stay warmer up here.
Heh I always wondered how vanilla pudding was made, thank you for this.
No don't eat that. Mixture of oil and vapours. You will die. It's poisonous.
Looks Like one of those Hunts Snack Pack Puddings Yummmmmmmmmmmmmmm
Goes great on some toast.
You Know something that looks like my Butter Bell that I have on my table . Thanks now every time I use it I will think of this (lol)
Jupiter Fox! Lol
Thank you, you just confirmed my belief. My uncle was telling me it was a blown head gasket but i told him it couldn't be that because my 4.6 runs like new and doesn't have the classic smoke out the exhaust. Now he owns me a coke😂
I need to thank you for this video, I recently got a 2004 C-Max with this deliciously looking pudding but the oil is clean. Now I understand why it happened and how to prevent it since the last owner did really drive long distances often
I have a jeep 3.7l that does this ever winter. I started using synthetic oil and it reduced it to about half what it was, never lose any coolant..
My jeep 3.7L has me here as well
Hi, I was offered (what I thought was a great deal on) a 1988 VW Cabriolet for $100. I was told by the owner it ran great 7 years ago. I had it towed to a mechanic that did only German vehicles. The entire fuel system needing cleaning and replacement parts. Once the car was running he told me the water pump and radiator fan needed replacement. He wanted way too much so I towed my car and got the water pump hose (not the water pump itself) replaced and the radiator fan replaced.
I picked the car up from then second mechanic and it starts, idles and drives great. I've had it about 2 weeks and have been driving it about 1 mile 2-3 times a week with no visible issues. Then I decide to replace some little things under the hood. Turn signal lights, head lights, air filter, topped off fluids. Checking the radiator last I noticed the reservoir had no coolant in it, so I added about 1 gallon of 50/50 and decided to take it for the usual 1 mile spin. This time it did not start as easily as it did every time since I got it back from the 2 mechanics. It started, rough idled and died within 2-3 seconds. Pumped the gas peddle and it sounded a little better. 3rd time it started and as I was putting it in reverse and looked back there was a huge cloud of white smoke. Under the cap it appears there's milky white substance on the cap. The oil on the dip stick looks clean though.
Probably a blown head gasket? Damn, all the money I spent on these 2 mechanics and both would not tell me this major problem. Well one kept suggesting I get rid of it asap. I think I'm going to buy the manual and turn it into a project car.
Saw that pudding color when I opened my oil cover and started to worry but thanks to you you gave me a piece of mind. I only occasionally drive it about 5 miles a day maybe a 30 minutes drive back and fort to work. Valve cover is starting to see some oil leak. It’s a sequioa. I guess I need to drive it on a highway once in a while coz I use it on local roads. Thanks again
Thanks for the info! Had me worried when I did a change on my truck, we live in CT but have had record lows for this time of year. Drained oil looked OK, thanks again. I drive 2 miles to work every day 😔 perhaps should take my bike lol
thanks ace, that's brave... I would not ryde no bike in a CT. Winter!!!
get a used electric car... that short of trip even a dead battery wouldnt be bad. Ive known people with short trips and it is bad on exhaust and catalytic converter too.
Same issue with mine in CT, freaked out
Yeah, short trips aren't good for carbon build up either. I think he talks about that in another video.
thanks ace lol
Here’s one for you. Changed PCV valve, oil is golden, cleaned out oil fill cap and the spot you pour it in, no coolant leak. Drive it pretty far, even did 4 one hour trips towing a trailer.... still gets really bad pudding. Like every time I drive it. I clean out the pcv and that oil cap every single trip
Thanks! You really helped quell some concerns I've been having. Had this pretty heavy on a 92' Mustang Gt,298xxx miles out of no where and was WORRIED. After some research and a few videos I knew I just needed to correct a few things. I'd bypassed my pcv,super bad idea. This was leading to HEAVY condensation in my crankcase and also creating a lot of irregular pressure causing the pcv grommet to leak. Also my oil pressure was becoming erratic. Ran a half can of seafoam through on a nice easy drive to break everything lose,changed the oil and reattached pcv with new components. She's running like a champ again. Lets hope my strut towers can hold together for another 100k. : )
298,000 miles! Wow good for you, you got your money's worth. From what I've seen on TH-cam comments Americans seem to run their cars to much higher mileage than Canadians.
Thank you! I've been freaking out for the past week!
Check pcv value also.
I live in Florida so needless to say I've never seen that. Learn something new everyday lol
lucky you! just hope your a/c doesn't pack-up
I was flushing my coolant system and didn't tighten bottom hose and noticed that steam was coming from around my oil cap, so I checked it. When I opened it, out had a small amount of moisture and white buildup. I checked the dip stick and nothing. Your video confirmed what I was thinking! But I still can't figure out how I got tissue paper in my radiator 😂
Thank you, again!!!
Never seen this before on my ford truck (216,000mi.) until yesterday
(and yes I freaked ) doing an oil change. usually I take it on long trips, but the last 2 months or so short trips and it's been cold too. real stuff!!!
Thank you sooo much for this valuable video, the info you gave in just this short amount of time is very informing and has been extremely helpful! Thank You!👌 If the rest of your content is similar to this video you can count me in as another one of your happy subscribers!
I was shocked to see this on my son's VW MKIV Jetta, coincident with a coolant hose flange leak beside the coolant temp sensor. He had trapped air in the cooling system with mild overheating from that. I fixed the hose flange, burped the system, changed his oil, and the problem resolved without recurrence over 5 years ago. I didn't think to check the PCV valve. Then I tried to understand why the two would be related.... I suppose it may have been unrelated, gradually cumulative, but I've never seen it before in other vehicles. On the other hand, as some have mentioned below, perhaps it is from plastic rocker covers that aren't warming up as much as the metal valve covers used in the past. Alternatively, I also like the idea that the detergents in new oils may make this more common. Old style wisdom of yesterday is not necessarily valid today, and although I was worried about a head gasket leak no such leak every materialized.
10.21.17. Also......GM 3.1/3.4 & 3800 V6 Coolant leaking into the valley & into the oil pan, due to (L.I.M.) lower intake manifold gaskets no longer sealing between the heads and intake manifold!.......Major problem solved by using metal framed ones from Fel-Pro or Magnum. I also change the coolant every 30k miles or 2yrs.......You have a superb channel ‼️
Yep this can happen on any car if you make lots of quick trips to the market and the shit doesn't have a chance to cook out. But it's also seasonal so you won't notice it so much or even at all in the summer as in colder months.
plastic valve covers dont heat up as much to head temp as aluminum would. even when i drive long drives in cold weather. the moisture condenses on the cooler plastic instead of boiling off
+Steven Tenney That is what is happening to my 15 year old VW 1.4 16V engine. How do I make it go away? It is not as bad as this at all.
Steven Tenney ...On my 1999 Ford Expedition in colder weather, engine up to operating temp and even after a long trip, the plastic valve covers are still just warm to the touch. I get the white pudding-like buildup on the bottom of the oil filler cap and in the top of the fill spout. During the warmer season, I don't get that. My theory as to the cause on these engines, is the low heat conductivity of the plastic valve covers plus the length of the oil fill spout further insulating it from engine heat. In the summer, much more heat is trapped in the engine compartment which then transfers to those components, helping moisture to evaporate easier instead of forming condensation. Those valve covers will now be hot enough to be very uncomfortable to the touch. Metal valve covers will be too hot to handle after a while even in the winter and will never have this issue unless the PCV system is blocked, the thermostat is not closing or coolant is getting in the oil. This condensation issue is seemingly the norm in engines with all that plastic and should disappear with the arrival of warmer weather. Just check fluids regularly, keep up with oil changes and you should be fine.
Steven Tenney Dude you look like David Duchovny, hear that often?
We had a '00 F-150 with the 5.4
It would get the pudding in fill cap area. It would get driven short trips 40% of the time.
Larger iron block, plastic valve covers and fill neck. I agree, they don't get hot enough.
I never see pudding on my aluminum Subaru ej25.
This also happens a lot in very wet climates, like the PacNW (Seattle area), when you park outside, and don't drive every day. My daughters Jeep liberty gets this every oil change, but no loss of coolant. Also, just installed a new PCV valve.
When you're due for and oil change and you have a lot of condensation add sea foam to your crank case and run it for 20 miles or so before draining your oil, leave the drain plug out overnight to remove as much as possible, I put my truck on ramps so the drain hole will be angled at the lowest point
Thank you! I got a block tester and tested it cold and very warm and fluid still stayed blue. No white exaughst. Have Mayo in the cap. I do indeed do a lot of short runs, so will look into replacing that PCV Valve and take back the $40 head gasket repair sealant. Have been scared would blow the motor!
I'm a Believer of routine oil changes and not missing any we bought a Ford Focus 2005 zx4 2.0 and we still drive it today one hour each way to work and back we are now three hundred and two thousand miles with no major repairs
Despite no milkiness under my oil cap, and generally driving in a warm environment, this explains why there is a general brown tinge to all the parts inside of the engine in my 1999 Chevy Prizm.
I think I do a lot to prevent issues, always using quality oil like Mobile 1 or Castrol with Syntec. These oils, when I buy the extended mileage are looking pretty clean up to 5k to 5.5k miles, but when I get synthetic that doesn't have the "extended" design I only get about 4.4k miles out of the oil. (The oils are rated at 15k and 7k respective to my 5.5k and 4.4k mile oil change intervals.) I'm basing these decisions by how dark the oil gets.
It's all those short trips. I'm building up water, and therefore acids because of living in smaller towns since 2005. The metal of my engines in a Metropolis looked much better. You know, where I was usually driving at least 23 miles to work, and I bought much more used cars and it was colder.
Short trips really are hard on cars. I never fully believed it, but "proof is in the pudding"! Just don't eat it! lol I should have stayed under 4k miles the whole time (car has 170k miles plus now).
FordTechMakuloco I had so much to say, I decided to write an article. I've watched dozens of your videos, but you really inspired me on this one. 1/2 of the article is here, but if anyone wants more, it's here below.
carmilespergallon.blogspot.com/2015/03/despite-no-milkiness-under-my-oil-cap.html - I embeded your video on my blog to help you out. :)
DE Nichols Sweet thanks!
FordTechMakuloco I got into your channel because I was thinking of buying a Ford Flex. I had one kid on the way not two so it can wait. Lol
I've stuck around because plenty of things you teach aren't Ford knowledge only. It's more useful than that. Plus, you never know what I'll see since I start at my first full service shop this week!
Thanks for explaining this issue and giving me peace of mind!
I didn't have that quite bad of a situation. I think the coolant leaked into the crankcase after I shut the engine off after a long run. My E250 has a 5.4 two valve engine. Factory tow package with remote oil cooler. Simply, I found the oil cooler leaking water into the oil cooling element. This was just six weeks ago! Removed the oil cooler from the remote oil manifold, pressurized the water area of the cooler while under water with air. Saw bubbles coming from the oil chamber area. Replaced the cooler purchased from a Ford dealer. truck has just gone on a three thousand mile trip with absolutely no problems. No more collant in the oil. Oh, I use only all synthetic oil and all synthetic additive. Vehicle now has 278,000 miles and the engine has never been taken apart. I change oil and filter approximately every 4-5 thousand miles. Yea, I'm a 74 yr. old gear head from the fiftys - sixtys big block era still doing my own work.
Neil, thanks for the response.
Papasmurf7597 I have the same problem on my 62 Lincoln continental I also have an exhaust leak and can't find guidance on replacing it...please don't tell me I have to unmount the engine.
Papasmurf7597 great job
Thank you Daniel. Just old timey mechanics. BTW. My truck now has 306,000 on it.
Papasmurf7597 wow that's wonderful. I hope my dodge makes it that far. Mine has 197000
Thanks for making this video! I just noticed this on my wife's 2005 expedition. She only drives less than five miles per day to work. I figured the pcv valve was clogged shut. I'm going to replace it anyway and change the oil. I do live in Pennsylvania with harsh winters.
+Mr223wssm take it on a road trip, condensation builds up in engine, need to get engine up to operating temp for a good hour or 2, fuel also dilutes oil for running rich and can leave varnish and sludge build-up inside engine and and clog oil galleys and oil pump pickup screen if not taken out and run. you should also do some full throttle acceleration runs like you are passing a car to help keep injectors clear and functioning properly
Dean Meyer
I owned a used car lot for several years and owned many cars, and trucks. The only ones that had this problem were Ford products. I owned many GM, Chrysler, and Japanese vehicles, but Fords were the only ones that I ever saw this problem in.
I'm sure because of the Chevy Avatar and my name you really don't want to hear much from me but keep in mind I have tried Ford many times with Expeditions F350 6.0 diesels and had nothing but bad luck so having said that you have great videos good content and you wouldn't believe how many times I get asked this question that you're showing in this video I deal with used cars a lot and everybody thinks that that milky spot in the valve cover cap means bad head gasket because everybody's mother's brother's Uncle sister Aunt father is a mechanic!!!!!
This can be a mix of oil and water but it can also be caused by using a high detergent oil. If your motor never really gets enough time to turn the water in your oil to a vapor then suck it out of the motor through the PCV valve it can build up inside the motor. Several years ago someone tested this pudding in the cap and it turned out to be detergent from the oil so it can be more than one thing. The only oil that I have seen this happen with was Quaker State.
I used to pump gas back in the 1970's. I checked the oil,on everyone's car. The only time I found this problem I asked them what oil they used, it was always Quaker State Oil. I have never used that brand since that time. Let that be a lesson you can all learn.
Thanks man you just saved me from having a bad day
Thought my ram had a blown headgasket too but then i realized the oil on the dipstick was fine and the coolant level hadnt changed. After watching this, sure enough everything lined up. Right now its winter and I only drive 2 miles back and fourth to school everyday. That combined with its larger aftermarket radiator it doesnt get to really heat up. Glad its nothing serious.
I get that yellow slime in my old Ford Bronco II every winter. It is easy to clear it up though by simply driving the vehicle for a couple of hours and that slime will liquefy and the moisture evaporate.
Used to see this a lot on the Buicks and Ford Crown Vics etc that were driven by older people.
Thank you sir. I was starting to think the vehicle I just purchased needed a head gasket replacement. But the previous owner does not drive it much and the dipstick is clean.
+ this new 2003+ style oil filler cap is moved up straight up in an extended "upward tunnel" trapping the rising moisture.
Thank you so much!! I took my 1988 Benz 560s oil cap off and I saw a pudding but nothing on the cams or on my dipstick and my coolant has not gone down at all, I was freaking out until I read that this was a very common problem and I saw this and that's exactly what mine looks like. I was just worried cause my other Benz ( my daily ) did have that
Subscribed because i drive an 03 MGM and see that slight whitness around the fill spot you were talking about. Come to my surprise, theres the engine bay of my car in your video and i figured it was nothing because its cold and i dont drive the car long distances. I feel better now.
Great video, happy to learn it's not a big problem. First time i've ever seen it on my 2004 F150, but it has been unusually cold this year.
You are a scholar and a saint thank you! Things to keep my eyes on
i bought a car that did that and had a near death experience...crap! blown head gasket i thought
* phew, was i relieved
I see those puddings on oil caps frequently now as we are going through extreme cold. I keep thinking it's a problem in the engine
Thank you for your videos! I have wondered about this issue and what caused it to happen.
2002 ranger did this.... it's fine. Completely natural for Ford's to do crazy sit, I have to turn the radio off before I start the car or it starts rough, only trick I found that works.
I hadnt done my oil change for a bit and after i had an oil change the truck starting stalling .i had anti freeze in 2 cylinders and milky oil on my oil cap.
yes thank you I did a oil change today and I saw some of this under my oil cap I do live in canada and in the morning time I do make short trips to work. I thought it was a head gasket but I have none of the other sings what you said in your video.
Another tip I use when checking the oil cap Look inside of it and not just the cap, if there is none of the milky stuff at the bottom it's the moisture, if there is milkey stuff at the bottom most likely a blown head gasket, if you just see oil your good, or check the dip stick, if the dip stick has the milky stuff to that's very bad if it doesn't then your good.
Awesome. I love videos in older vehicles such as this Grand Marquis or Rangers.
Thank you for the info. I drive only about 100 miles a Wk, n have this issue.
My 2002 F150 old PVC Hose was leaking around the Intake , replaced it , no more Pudding . Be careful , the Heater core has plastic Quick couplers that break of very easily , best to do it when the Motor is cool to avoid getting a possible serious scalding hot Radiator coolant Burn !!!
Living in coldest part of Canada this is a common thing. I usually stay with synthetic oil and avoid the short warm up time.
Thanks for sharing.
oh man am looking this video long time. you make my day, I thinking my BMW in garage ( 500mil/yr) have leaking head gasket. thank you man
Excellent video, i saw something similar on my oil cap, but the oil on dip stick was clean, so guess im good to go
deadlyspartanx Yup
This video set off my car guy reflex to get in there and clean up that engine bay.
Thanks for posting this it was very informative and helpful
I found this stuff on the upper part of my dipstick. The oil was actually clear on the part where you look and see if it's full or low. I nearly shit a brick.
Thanks i was wondering about that. My oil isn’t milkshakey so that’s good to. It’s a v6 Mustang that sits during the winter ❄️
Thank you God Bless you for your time on these videos
You may just have saved me from a early heart attack
Whew 😅 just saved me a freak out lol 😆 just noticed this on my truck that I don’t drive much
short trips will kill your car... should always get to running temp if u can
trulysick86 wrong...cars are meant to be driven short or long distance. Doesn't matter your car will be fine.
hulk hogan actually it does matter always let a motor warm up to operating temperature. You get the most engine wear when engine is cold. Just let it warm up unless your the person who would rather have car payments and trades it in every 5-7 years. My cars I usually get rid of them around 300k and they still run great.
joe c a engine warms up faster by driving on it then just letting it sit there
You don't need to warm up your car for 20 minutes before you drive but it is helpful if the temp at least starts to read on the gauge before you get going. As mentioned before, the vehicle does warm up a lot faster when under load. At least get to normal operating temperature before you shut it off though.
no it doesn't dummy
I had similar problems but I checked the oil it was good checked the cylinders no coolant and I do live in the rocky Mountains so makes sense
I have a little 4cylinder Mazda pickup, and I JUST noticed my oil cap has a little milky gunk on it. I pulled my PCV valve and it had the white gunk inside of it too. It ONLY started to happen to me since winter started here in Oregon. The oil when I check it is nice and gold even when cold, but the oil cap and pcv valve always have some moisture in them. And the little tube on top of the valve cover running to my airbox ontop of my carb is getting this moisture too. My coolant did drop a little over the last couple months, but I tightened up some hoses and it stopped losing coolant....coolant is still green, no signs of milkiness. Whats your opinion?? I work like 3 miles from my house, and don't travel out of town much, mostly in town trips, but its my daily driver
Yes your weather conditions and driving habits lend themselves to this kind of build up I would not worry it is normal.
Oh yeah just happened on my 65k mile 350z I drive 0.3 miles to work everyday, I absolutely freaked out 😭 cap was milky and caked around that area, I drained the oil and it was cleaned so I flushed 2 new oils through it and did a motor oil flush 😁
My customers are always surprised when I tell them they need to drive for longer periods of time
Brilliant video!!! Thanks heaps, help me understand that small amount of oil water mix on the cap.
chaaruzuchibi i was worry too. I have the concern about it. Since I only work 15 minuets away from home.
I've owned 3 Ford Taurus with the DOHC engine, and all of them made pudding in the cap....didn't matter what oil I ran or how far I drove. Just something about that motor. They all ran to over 200k before I sold them, meh.
This happened to our 2001 F-250 with the 6.8L V10 during below zero temps and the moisture froze the baffle off the valve cover for the pcv. went out and started the truck and heard the baffle getting thrown around, pulled the cover off halfway and removed the baffle
Oh wow that's bad!
I noticed this with my truck today, because I only drive 5 minutes to work everyday. I thought it was a blown head gasket because I was also loosing coolant, but wheb I changed my oil I noticed coolant leaking externally from my radiator. My oil was free of this butterscotch colour but I did notice a tiny bit of it on my dip stick the other day, I'm concerned about my truck.
Hi, I have the exact problem on my 2001 VW Golf GLS 2.0L engine. I only drive this 14-yr old small car to train station a mile from my house, so that I don't need to park my better car at the public parking lot. It is 2 miles round-trip daily and I agreed that you are correct about daily short trips caused this issue. It did freak me out when I opened the oil cap and see all the thick pudding, but your video helped me felt a lot better now. My coolant level never drops and my dipstick doesn't have any of the pudding. However, I will follow your advice and change oil every 3-4 months even it is only 200 miles driven in 3 months. I do have a question. I live in San Francisco Bay Area and it is not every cold here in the winter, about only 38-40 degree in the winter morning. Will it matter how cold it is? Or short trip is the main culprit in my case? Thank you for all your help! Liked your videos.
T-for-Tiger Short trips are the main culprit we can see this in warmer weather if the customer drives short trips all the time.
thanks for the pudding update. opinion on oil additives and gas additives? ppe? in gas cleaning additives"?
I just recommend a good synthetic- amzn.to/2jKT73P
A synthetic? I have 212,000 on my 5.4 L 3 valve engine. I have always run high quality, high detergent motor oil.
If I switch to a synthetic, like Royal Purple, won't that risk contamination in valve train oil passages that serve to shorten engine life?
Will the synthetic oil compromise piston clearance on high mileage engines?
I really appreciate your videos. They answer questions on how to approach a repair my Expedition.
I see that pudding effect more so on vehicles with PLASTIC valve covers and / or PLASTIC intake manifolds.. worst place to have plastic in / on an engine.