Keith, first time poster on your channel, but have watching many of your videos when I have time. I too have a channel and recently began making machining videos of my work. I grew up in a job shop and have done or know much of the same work as you. I agree with your comments 100% about "easy outs". Ive had my fair share of parts where people have broken and ez-out in the hole, and make like its no problem "Hey I need you to drill this broke bolt out for me, BTW its got a broken ez-out in there"
That's a good theory! I have disassembled hundreds if not thousand of turbos and I have had to do this to about half of them. From experience I can tell ya that the casting leaches so much heat that 75% of the remaining bolt doesn't expand enough to let go when it cools most of the time. If the bolt is not stuck too bad, then you are correct, it will come out with little effort after welding and cooling. I call it "reverse swedging". You did really well there Keith! Thanks for sharing!
Keith- Brilliant stuff n Great to watch you work, I'll pass on to you one of my experiences, a builder guy I know was cutting a stone flag with an angle grinder with "no guard fitted" ! the blade shattered and slashed his Jugla, blood gushing out !!, luckily he lived but his vocal cords were damaged and distorted his speech for 2-3 years, he's now fairly back to normal now. don't wanna be a told you so but food for thought maybe
That is a FANTASTIC job Keith!!! Really great skills you have there.... And you're a good teacher too! You should be proud of yourself, thanks for sharing!
Really liked the comment about the ground path arcing through the bearings. Something I'll try and be mindful of in the future as a general rule. Great tip!!!
Another repair I had to do once was a Top Fuel aluminum block that blew a couple rods, put a 4-5 inch diameter hole in the side. Beat up one of the heads pretty bad too, so it was more 'miles' of TIG welding beads. used up 2 of the 5 pound boxes of TIG filler.. Very impressive work you're doing, especially by hand!
I work in tooling dept of our plant and not a week goes by that maintenance brings up their attempts at repair (used lightly) that went wrong. I actually enjoy doing that type of work the most.... love challenges. Great videos even though i do this work for a living i never work on the large things you get a chance to so i still learn.
After spending the first 6 months as a turbo tech doing exactly this, here's a few suggestions. Use a stainless nut, they seem to weld more reliably to the high tensile bolts used. As it cools down flood it with penetrating fluid. When it's finally at room temperature, give the nut a solid rap with a heavy hammer. This tends to break the corrosion formed from salt and thermal cycling. Even if they are broken below the surface I'd get nearly 100% success.
@Pudersepp When the part is heated, it exspands as a whole and releaves the grip rather than increasing. you have to be quick and hot enough or the transfer of heat sometimes regrips as the bolt matches temp. Sometimes when the bolt is super heated, it exspands and crushes the rust build up, then becomes loose when cooled.
Hi Keith, I love to watch the new stuff, but also love to watch you sort out others mistakes such as this Turbo. Really appreciate your upload of all your videos, and I have subbed so with gradually make my way through all the videos I can view! Thank you so much, and your close-ups are brilliant. mrbluenun
Pipe threads are pretty easy, most of the time! I like to use a rotary burr, slowly remove the inside until you reach the minor thread diameter of the pipe that broke off on two sides straight across from each other, then take a sharp faced drift punch and tap inward the solid sides, with a couple taps, relieving the pressure and remove with fingers! ;{)---
very good idea , did you know that if you tightn a bolt first before you try and crack it loose it will loosen up withought breaking, this is usualy the case on components subjected to thermal cycling , it locks the threads sum how i swear bro next time you come acros some brakes or a turbo charger or oxygen sencore, tightn it first and it will crack the thermal cycling lock every time it works for me its like magic, great video
dammit man !!! is there anything you CANT DO ??????? when i saw you build your own wood splitter i could'nt believe it !!!!! holy smokes .....what talent !!!!!!!!
@mrmanleedude I always try that after I welded it on and before I go for the heat, when it has fully cooled down. Once in a while the expansion, does the trick, nice comment, Thanks
I have pulled the ones down inside the hole also by blackening the inside of the threads with torch soot and welding straight up the hole and then to a flat washer on the top. Then take channel locks and unscrew it. I have done this many times.
very good idea , did you know that if you tightn a bolt first before you try and crack it loose it will loosen up withought breaking, this is usualy the case on components subjected to thermal cycling , it locks the threads sum how i swear bro next time you come acros some brakes or a turbo charger or oxygen sencore, tightn it first and it will crack the thermal cycling lock every time it works for me its like magic
And if possible use a 3/8 impact gun on low to go forward and back with some knocker loose penetrating spray. Baby steps, if you force it it will break is what I always try to teach.
I bought a large quantity of powder very cheaply, which had come from a local railway works which had closed down. Apparently they used if tor building up wheels which had worn down over the years. Very interesting videos Keith, I know someone who manufactures pistons in a small Birmingham workshop, and maybe he should do some along similar lines?
Interesting to see that you loosened the bolt under heat. What I've done is heat the work up, smoking, and then leave it to cool. Works that way as well. I was thinking that when you heat the thing up, it expands, forcing the bolt in tighter and thus after cooling, would produce a "looseness" to the threading.
I get alot of these at my machine shop as well. Some other suggestions are to use a carbide tipped drill (common hardware store masons bit sharpened will work and there cheap) which will drill through the easy out as well as the broken bolt. Sodel also makes what they call "remover rods" which work like an oxy lance they burn out the damaged bolt or easy out and do not hurt the part or threads, but there pricey.
I've done alot of those, but with out the heli-arc option, i found a welding rod called utp-65 wich i've taken out broken bolts that are broke of inside the hole. amazing stuff espically when you have a piece you can't get into the shop.
TIG brazing seems to rely very much on the filler rod used. Here in the UK cro-moly race car suspension parts are often made using this method, with most using phosphor bronze rods. Phosphor bronze seems to work on almost anything, and have been able to repair 100 year old cast iron guttering from a building being restored with it no problem. On the other hand not had much luck with Si Cu or Si Al brazing filler, but guess they work fine on some specific applications.
I am a maintenance tech in my shop and this kind of work is 75% of what occupies my day. Stripped bolt heads, broken drills in parts, EZ out removal from some enterprising young operator who does not realize he just made it worse for me. I always tell them don't try and help! Just call me as soon as it happens and I will have a much better chance of getting it out quickly and easily. Some of the parts I have to work on are worth thousands of dollars, so I try and get all the info I can.
Experience is a wonderful thing, it enables you to realize when you made it the second time. This is what I tell the guys when I am helping them get out broken or seized stuff. Call me before you mess it up, if you are forcing it it is going to break.
My last comment was only referring to cast material. I like to play with steels and other metals with bronze brazing. I'm glad you commented and want to hear when something or different alloys come to play and works, thanks for sharing! ;{)-----
Hi Keith: Something to watch when working on Turbochargers is the intake side. It' very important to cover the inlet opening, to prevent dirt or grindings from getting in there preventing short term or immediate engine failure. Sorry Keith, I don't mean to be a know it all, but this is how I make my living
1693caterpillar Turbo can be cleaned as far as the air/exhaust goes. You really want to protect the oil/lubrication of any turbo. And it really didn't look new.
Yes it is a PlasmaCAM and I'm using a Thermal Dynamics cutmaster 81, 60 amp unit. On my feature page you can see my playlist for quick reference to the assembly and playing with it. Some turbos are but that was awhile ago and without going back for a view I'm not sure if it was. If it had the barb fittings on it then yes! ;{)---
Welding nuts onto broken bolts or studs works in around 1 in 4 cases. Its far more effective to weld a blob of weld directly onto the broken fastener, and turn it out using a mole wrench while still red hot. Have used that method quite a lot and it very rarely fails.
Rockmount Nassau markets an electrode that they call Brutus which works very well for extracting broken bolts or studs. Because it was primarily a cast iron welding electrode it can be run at low amperage and you have to work very hard to make it arc to the side of the hole and the deposit metal has a high tensile strenght so removal force is transferred to the broken part . With a 1/16" electrode you can easily built up a broken bolt in a hole until it is proud as the slag runs to the side and protects the threads. The heat generated by the welding process caused the bolt to try to expand but it is contained by the hole so can only expand lengthwise but shrinks both ways. Restricted expansion free contraction equals a smaller diameter after cooling. Weld a nut onto the protruding buildup with 7018 and Bob's your uncle. I've removed 11/8" bottoming studs that were torqued in and broken off 2" below the face with 1/8" dia electrodes a number of times. Once they were cooled a 1/2" impact will spin them right out.
Just removed one of those broken off in a pipe plug. Tig'd a pile of weld on it then a nut, turned it back to the right a little and slide hammered it out.
Worked in a shop for 17 years and we always called them ease outs because you have to be very easy with the tool. There is nothing easy about it when you brake one off in a hole. I have had luck taking a punch and breaking them up into smaller pieces to get them out.
If you have not tried phosphor bronze on cast, give it a try. Always worked very well for me. Also well worth looking at powder welding, for cast, and this is something that can be used for most hard facing jobs, as there is a really large range of different powders available.
I dabble in a little bit of everything and some tools for one trade are nice to use in another, also I may have been working on home project and laid tools on bench until I get a chance to put them away. I am not in position to have apprentice, thanks for the comment. ;{)-----
What welding rod did you use Keith, we were trying to do this with a Porsche last month, damn thing just kept breaking off, the weld seemed to brittle. I've done it before with A32 without a problem.
Yep that is what we call flame spray, ceramic was the only successful coating for marine shafting in the patrol boat in the navel yards and bronze and S/S wasn't worth anything for sealing items like valve seat etc. cool how we all pretty much have or had the same experences. I use to grind the ceramic with the tool post grinder diamond wheel and the coolmister spraying on it at the same time, moving the carraige with a swift feed rate. ;{)----
hi Keith just subed i really like your videos and how you explain things this kind of work really interest me and ill be watching so please keep them coming cheers
Give it a try next time you have a broken fastener. If you heat the part fastener screws into as well, it works pretty much every time. Also found TIG brazing works great for repairing things like cracked exhaust manifolds, and is faster than oxy-fuel brazing.
Wow my first try if I had that and it was indeed a straight easy out would have been tig welding the center and build up till a threaded stud could be welded to the weld build up, then let cool, then add a bunch of washers or a collar of aproz 3/4" in length start to tighten and from the back side where the extractor is start heating and tighten nut on the threaded part keep heating and slide hammer attached to the stud gently slamming outwards. The key to this process is with the force that the nut is transfering against the housing and the heating of that housing which will expand the hole a little the slide hammer will be able to pull the welded stud attached to the easy out. After that you had the machinery to drill out the centering and pull the threads out like undoing a heli coil that went wrong. I am not a fan of brazing if there is a alternative way. Tig welding is my first choice if you are careful and patient and has never failed me once. P/S the cylinder head pins holding the guide rails on Mercedes Benz seize in the head and the only way to get them out every time is with a slide hammer and heating up the head where the pin is press fit in. Helped many guys get these pins out when they get stuck.
Since it was a straight flute extractor could you have welded to it and used some kind of puller? I find it effective to weld a washer to a flush broken off fastener then weld a nut to the washer. In the case of the extractor, you could have welded a small washer to the extractor then a threaded rod to the washer then use a sleeve/jack nut to pull it out.
We are of the same thought just about I just replied above before coming onto your post, maybe he did not have a tig welder, a mig welder would be too dangerous, and stick welding well you better have a steady hand and a good aim. Tig or the win.
Hi Keith. I recently stumbled onto your channel and really enjoy your videos. I'm not a machinist so I'm curious if "Heat the shit outa here" is an industry term. :) Seriously tho, than you for the videos.
I use an xzn bit, choose the right one, freeze it and tap it in, used it for (friend) his car broken off sparkplug in alu head.xzn bits uses than the full lenght, just a thought, good video
A machine shop, the must have experience job.. I like machining but tools are very expensive. Cutting out that easy out and brazing in new material is a can do in the average set up shop. Not the same can be said for chemically burning it out.
you actually did not need to heat the casing to remove that bolt that you welded the nut to. What happens is that the bolt expands when heated (by the welding process) and it want to expand volumeterically, but since it restricted in expanding in diameter it expands more in other directions. when it cools it still cools volumeterically so the diameter is smaller than originally. Its called "upset" 95% of the time thats all you need to get the bolt out. never the less, you got it out. Keep it up
"Knurl by pipe wrench" Never heard that one before but I like it. So I always thought it was hacks that brought me things to fix like that. I now know that they were actually very progressive and where just knurling the stud, Genius!! *kidding*
Is that a PlasmaCam table? what are you using for the power source? 'Easy out', Yeah, more like a 'broken stud expander'. funny thing, I bought a Snap-on kit with 5 left hand drill bits, and 5 'easy outs', usually the drill relieves the pressure and the broken stud comes right out. My lest employment (maint-mechanic/electrician/welder/floor sweeper) was a shop with about 125 pieces of motorized equipment, and the 'pipe wrench knurling' was everywhere. Is that turbo housing water-cooled?
huxleypig69 its a casting and is most likely Iron not steel, there in lies the problem, heating it wont damage it but after grinding out the easy out it can't easily be welded, Iron will crack if not properly heated before welding and even then you have to use a nickel rod that is almost impossible to machine afterward. a weld shop should be able to burn the broken easy out out with a carbon rod designed for that purpose, I have been in the machining trade for over 40 years and thats how we remove a broken tap
No its an oxy-fuel process, which can also be used to build up worn worn shafts, as well as actual welding jobs. Its also ideal for repair jobs such as cracked cylinder blocks............you can get full details by typing "Eutectic powder welding" into Google and looking for Eutectic PDF catalog.
If the easy out and the prior hole drilled was in center, of the bolts axis to make the rest of an attempt to remove valid, yes a carbide drill may work. ;{)------
It might have been faster to fixture it vertical in a mill from the get go and peck with an end mill, my best success has been to use a ball end mill first to make an actual center to then try and drill with a carbide drill or continue with a center cutting endmill. Also another option could be to fill it with epoxy and drill it to use a keensert although the limited material might be to thin to hold a keensert.
I would have tried welding a nut, and then use heat to relieve the corrosion mess that was holding it, or set it up in the mill and find true center then drill and tap it clear. ;{)---
I'm not a fan of using heli-coils in extreme heat areas and hole was already targeted of center by the same person that broke off the easy out in it! It was a; fix it now so I can leave dock in a couple hours, on a weekend, type job. ;{)-----
Great stuff. Maybe you need an apprentice for a week. :-) Watch out welding on cad plated hardware. That's bad stuff, gets in your bones and never leaves.
It is always better to have it completely broke down! The mechanic on the job, didn't want to break it down any more than he did to do the repairs so the guy could be back in service and on his way out fishing in a matter of hours. this was a work on it until its done weekend type job! Tuna season is crazy and time is a matter of catching and or not. ;{)------
Keith Fenner Ah, I was wondering the same thing. It's just 6 bolts holding that housing on. But I guess the fear was that it would go the way of the two studs on the other side?
E-Z outs are never easy and rarely take things out. In my experience......ok i had a snapped off grease zerk that was quick and easy but that was about it didn't even have to drill anything.
How about an EDM die sinker set up on the milling machine and spark erode the easy out, out of existence. I have an old EDM die sinker that is designed for that exact purpose, it was sold by TOOL"O"RAMA and the brand name was RAWLMIKES. It's not very powerful but it does the job rather well.
Keith, first time poster on your channel, but have watching many of your videos when I have time. I too have a channel and recently began making machining videos of my work. I grew up in a job shop and have done or know much of the same work as you. I agree with your comments 100% about "easy outs". Ive had my fair share of parts where people have broken and ez-out in the hole, and make like its no problem "Hey I need you to drill this broke bolt out for me, BTW its got a broken ez-out in there"
You are The Master of craftsmanship! And You have a bad ass workshop man! !
That's a good theory! I have disassembled hundreds if not thousand of turbos and I have had to do this to about half of them. From experience I can tell ya that the casting leaches so much heat that 75% of the remaining bolt doesn't expand enough to let go when it cools most of the time. If the bolt is not stuck too bad, then you are correct, it will come out with little effort after welding and cooling. I call it "reverse swedging". You did really well there Keith! Thanks for sharing!
Keith- Brilliant stuff n Great to watch you work, I'll pass on to you one of my experiences, a builder guy I know was cutting a stone flag with an angle grinder with "no guard fitted" ! the blade shattered and slashed his Jugla, blood gushing out !!, luckily he lived but his vocal cords were damaged and distorted his speech for 2-3 years, he's now fairly back to normal now. don't wanna be a told you so but food for thought maybe
That is a FANTASTIC job Keith!!! Really great skills you have there.... And you're a good teacher too! You should be proud of yourself, thanks for sharing!
Vice grips and heat for stud no 1 is the way i'd have gone but I'm learning loads thanks to people like you. thank you very much Kieth
Really liked the comment about the ground path arcing through the bearings. Something I'll try and be mindful of in the future as a general rule. Great tip!!!
Another repair I had to do once was a Top Fuel aluminum block that blew a couple rods, put a 4-5 inch diameter hole in the side. Beat up one of the heads pretty bad too, so it was more 'miles' of TIG welding beads. used up 2 of the 5 pound boxes of TIG filler..
Very impressive work you're doing, especially by hand!
I work in tooling dept of our plant and not a week goes by that maintenance brings up their attempts at repair (used lightly) that went wrong. I actually enjoy doing that type of work the most.... love challenges.
Great videos even though i do this work for a living i never work on the large things you get a chance to so i still learn.
After spending the first 6 months as a turbo tech doing exactly this, here's a few suggestions. Use a stainless nut, they seem to weld more reliably to the high tensile bolts used. As it cools down flood it with penetrating fluid. When it's finally at room temperature, give the nut a solid rap with a heavy hammer. This tends to break the corrosion formed from salt and thermal cycling. Even if they are broken below the surface I'd get nearly 100% success.
@Pudersepp When the part is heated, it exspands as a whole and releaves the grip rather than increasing. you have to be quick and hot enough or the transfer of heat sometimes regrips as the bolt matches temp. Sometimes when the bolt is super heated, it exspands and crushes the rust build up, then becomes loose when cooled.
Hi Keith,
I love to watch the new stuff, but also love to watch you sort out others mistakes such as this Turbo.
Really appreciate your upload of all your videos, and I have subbed so with gradually make my way through all the videos I can view!
Thank you so much, and your close-ups are brilliant.
mrbluenun
Pipe threads are pretty easy, most of the time! I like to use a rotary burr, slowly remove the inside until you reach the minor thread diameter of the pipe that broke off on two sides straight across from each other, then take a sharp faced drift punch and tap inward the solid sides, with a couple taps, relieving the pressure and remove with fingers! ;{)---
very good idea , did you know that if you tightn a bolt first before you try and crack it loose
it will loosen up withought breaking, this is usualy the case on components subjected to thermal cycling , it locks the threads sum how i swear bro next time you come acros some brakes or a turbo charger or oxygen sencore, tightn it first and it will crack the thermal cycling lock every time it works for me its like magic, great video
Yeah the "easy out" really is a misnomer. Same can be said about broken tap removers...
Good info! Looking forward to the braze build up and machine
dammit man !!! is there anything you CANT DO ??????? when i saw you build your own wood splitter i could'nt believe it !!!!! holy smokes .....what talent !!!!!!!!
@mrmanleedude I always try that after I welded it on and before I go for the heat, when it has fully cooled down. Once in a while the expansion, does the trick, nice comment, Thanks
I have pulled the ones down inside the hole also by blackening the inside of the threads with torch soot and welding straight up the hole and then to a flat washer on the top. Then take channel locks and unscrew it. I have done this many times.
very good idea , did you know that if you tightn a bolt first before you try and crack it loose
it will loosen up withought breaking, this is usualy the case on components subjected to thermal cycling , it locks the threads sum how i swear bro next time you come acros some brakes or a turbo charger or oxygen sencore, tightn it first and it will crack the thermal cycling lock every time it works for me its like magic
And if possible use a 3/8 impact gun on low to go forward and back with some knocker loose penetrating spray. Baby steps, if you force it it will break is what I always try to teach.
I bought a large quantity of powder very cheaply, which had come from a local railway works which had closed down. Apparently they used if tor building up wheels which had worn down over the years. Very interesting videos Keith, I know someone who manufactures pistons in a small Birmingham workshop, and maybe he should do some along similar lines?
Interesting to see that you loosened the bolt under heat. What I've done is heat the work up, smoking, and then leave it to cool. Works that way as well. I was thinking that when you heat the thing up, it expands, forcing the bolt in tighter and thus after cooling, would produce a "looseness" to the threading.
I get alot of these at my machine shop as well. Some other suggestions are to use a carbide tipped drill (common hardware store masons bit sharpened will work and there cheap) which will drill through the easy out as well as the broken bolt. Sodel also makes what they call "remover rods" which work like an oxy lance they burn out the damaged bolt or easy out and do not hurt the part or threads, but there pricey.
Thank you for making this video. I have a very similar issue on the intake manifold of my Chrysler 318
I've done alot of those, but with out the heli-arc option, i found a welding rod called utp-65 wich i've taken out broken bolts that are broke of inside the hole. amazing stuff espically when you have a piece you can't get into the shop.
TIG brazing seems to rely very much on the filler rod used. Here in the UK cro-moly race car suspension parts are often made using this method, with most using phosphor bronze rods. Phosphor bronze seems to work on almost anything, and have been able to repair 100 year old cast iron guttering from a building being restored with it no problem.
On the other hand not had much luck with Si Cu or Si Al brazing filler, but guess they work fine on some specific applications.
I am a maintenance tech in my shop and this kind of work is 75% of what occupies my day. Stripped bolt heads, broken drills in parts, EZ out removal from some enterprising young operator who does not realize he just made it worse for me. I always tell them don't try and help! Just call me as soon as it happens and I will have a much better chance of getting it out quickly and easily. Some of the parts I have to work on are worth thousands of dollars, so I try and get all the info I can.
Experience is a wonderful thing, it enables you to realize when you made it the second time. This is what I tell the guys when I am helping them get out broken or seized stuff. Call me before you mess it up, if you are forcing it it is going to break.
My last comment was only referring to cast material. I like to play with steels and other metals with bronze brazing. I'm glad you commented and want to hear when something or different alloys come to play and works, thanks for sharing! ;{)-----
WOW! A new CNC machine. Nice going Kieth. Pete
@FLYINHIGH5 It is cast iron and will be brazed to fill the missing :)
Hi Keith: Something to watch when working on Turbochargers is the intake side. It' very important to cover the inlet opening, to prevent dirt or grindings from getting in there preventing short term or immediate engine failure. Sorry Keith, I don't mean to be a know it all, but this is how I make my living
1693caterpillar Turbo can be cleaned as far as the air/exhaust goes. You really want to protect the oil/lubrication of any turbo. And it really didn't look new.
If I was going to do that job I would find out how Keith Fenner would do it and do that. You da man Keith.
Yes it is a PlasmaCAM and I'm using a Thermal Dynamics cutmaster 81, 60 amp unit. On my feature page you can see my playlist for quick reference to the assembly and playing with it. Some turbos are but that was awhile ago and without going back for a view I'm not sure if it was. If it had the barb fittings on it then yes! ;{)---
Keith ,,in my experience they are called easyouts because unless the stud is easy, you will never get it out with these tools,,as you well know :)
Welding nuts onto broken bolts or studs works in around 1 in 4 cases. Its far more effective to weld a blob of weld directly onto the broken fastener, and turn it out using a mole wrench while still red hot. Have used that method quite a lot and it very rarely fails.
Rockmount Nassau markets an electrode that they call Brutus which works very well for extracting broken bolts or studs. Because it was primarily a cast iron welding electrode it can be run at low amperage and you have to work very hard to make it arc to the side of the hole and the deposit metal has a high tensile strenght so removal force is transferred to the broken part . With a 1/16" electrode you can easily built up a broken bolt in a hole until it is proud as the slag runs to the side and protects the threads. The heat generated by the welding process caused the bolt to try to expand but it is contained by the hole so can only expand lengthwise but shrinks both ways. Restricted expansion free contraction equals a smaller diameter after cooling. Weld a nut onto the protruding buildup with 7018 and Bob's your uncle.
I've removed 11/8" bottoming studs that were torqued in and broken off 2" below the face with 1/8" dia electrodes a number of times. Once they were cooled a 1/2" impact will spin them right out.
Just removed one of those broken off in a pipe plug. Tig'd a pile of weld on it then a nut, turned it back to the right a little and slide hammered it out.
I have to say, hearing you say it is WAY funnier than reading hahaha Keep up the good work.
Worked in a shop for 17 years and we always called them ease outs because you have to be very easy with the tool. There is nothing easy about it when you brake one off in a hole. I have had luck taking a punch and breaking them up into smaller pieces to get them out.
If you have not tried phosphor bronze on cast, give it a try. Always worked very well for me. Also well worth looking at powder welding, for cast, and this is something that can be used for most hard facing jobs, as there is a really large range of different powders available.
I dabble in a little bit of everything and some tools for one trade are nice to use in another, also I may have been working on home project and laid tools on bench until I get a chance to put them away. I am not in position to have apprentice, thanks for the comment. ;{)-----
Excellent videos Keith.
What your opinion of the likes of mini-ductors that use induction for bolt removal, Are they any good or is a torch like yours the best way to go.
What welding rod did you use Keith, we were trying to do this with a Porsche last month, damn thing just kept breaking off, the weld seemed to brittle. I've done it before with A32 without a problem.
Powder welding, is that what we call submerged arc welding?
Wow saved the Oshkosh. What a great job. Thanks
Yep that is what we call flame spray, ceramic was the only successful coating for marine shafting in the patrol boat in the navel yards and bronze and S/S wasn't worth anything for sealing items like valve seat etc. cool how we all pretty much have or had the same experences. I use to grind the ceramic with the tool post grinder diamond wheel and the coolmister spraying on it at the same time, moving the carraige with a swift feed rate. ;{)----
hi Keith just subed i really like your videos and how you explain things this kind of work really interest me and ill be watching so please keep them coming cheers
Give it a try next time you have a broken fastener. If you heat the part fastener screws into as well, it works pretty much every time. Also found TIG brazing works great for repairing things like cracked exhaust manifolds, and is faster than oxy-fuel brazing.
Wow my first try if I had that and it was indeed a straight easy out would have been tig welding the center and build up till a threaded stud could be welded to the weld build up, then let cool, then add a bunch of washers or a collar of aproz 3/4" in length start to tighten and from the back side where the extractor is start heating and tighten nut on the threaded part keep heating and slide hammer attached to the stud gently slamming outwards. The key to this process is with the force that the nut is transfering against the housing and the heating of that housing which will expand the hole a little the slide hammer will be able to pull the welded stud attached to the easy out. After that you had the machinery to drill out the centering and pull the threads out like undoing a heli coil that went wrong. I am not a fan of brazing if there is a alternative way. Tig welding is my first choice if you are careful and patient and has never failed me once.
P/S the cylinder head pins holding the guide rails on Mercedes Benz seize in the head and the only way to get them out every time is with a slide hammer and heating up the head where the pin is press fit in. Helped many guys get these pins out when they get stuck.
Since it was a straight flute extractor could you have welded to it and used some kind of puller?
I find it effective to weld a washer to a flush broken off fastener then weld a nut to the washer. In the case of the extractor, you could have welded a small washer to the extractor then a threaded rod to the washer then use a sleeve/jack nut to pull it out.
We are of the same thought just about I just replied above before coming onto your post, maybe he did not have a tig welder, a mig welder would be too dangerous, and stick welding well you better have a steady hand and a good aim. Tig or the win.
Great videos and the titles are the best!
Hi Keith. I recently stumbled onto your channel and really enjoy your videos.
I'm not a machinist so I'm curious if "Heat the shit outa here" is an industry term. :)
Seriously tho, than you for the videos.
I use an xzn bit, choose the right one, freeze it and tap it in, used it for (friend) his car broken off sparkplug in alu head.xzn bits uses than the full lenght, just a thought, good video
A machine shop, the must have experience job.. I like machining but tools are very expensive. Cutting out that easy out and brazing in new material is a can do in the average set up shop. Not the same can be said for chemically burning it out.
you actually did not need to heat the casing to remove that bolt that you welded the nut to. What happens is that the bolt expands when heated (by the welding process) and it want to expand volumeterically, but since it restricted in expanding in diameter it expands more in other directions. when it cools it still cools volumeterically so the diameter is smaller than originally. Its called "upset" 95% of the time thats all you need to get the bolt out. never the less, you got it out.
Keep it up
@racepak It was more a cost and timing issue, stated by the marine mechanic...
"Knurl by pipe wrench" Never heard that one before but I like it. So I always thought it was hacks that brought me things to fix like that. I now know that they were actually very progressive and where just knurling the stud, Genius!!
*kidding*
Is that a PlasmaCam table? what are you using for the power source? 'Easy out', Yeah, more like a 'broken stud expander'. funny thing, I bought a Snap-on kit with 5 left hand drill bits, and 5 'easy outs', usually the drill relieves the pressure and the broken stud comes right out.
My lest employment (maint-mechanic/electrician/welder/floor sweeper) was a shop with about 125 pieces of motorized equipment, and the 'pipe wrench knurling' was everywhere.
Is that turbo housing water-cooled?
I take it that the turbo was just mild steel? So heating it like that won't change its properties?
huxleypig69 its a casting and is most likely Iron not steel, there in lies the problem, heating it wont damage it but after grinding out the easy out it can't easily be welded, Iron will crack if not properly heated before welding and even then you have to use a nickel rod that is almost impossible to machine afterward. a weld shop should be able to burn the broken easy out out with a carbon rod designed for that purpose, I have been in the machining trade for over 40 years and thats how we remove a broken tap
huxleypig69 I have seen turbo's run 500Celcius, extreme.
Its, fine turbo manifold temps can go over 1200f.
Keith, great videos. Do you have any videos on what you did to make your water table on your plasma table?
No its an oxy-fuel process, which can also be used to build up worn worn shafts, as well as actual welding jobs. Its also ideal for repair jobs such as cracked cylinder blocks............you can get full details by typing "Eutectic powder welding" into Google and looking for Eutectic PDF catalog.
is that turbo case cast? How will you build it back up from where you ground it out?
I have the same pcnc plasma cutter, but for some reason the red stop button and start control buttons on the control box do not work, do yours work?
Dude has some nice toys to play with there.....
Thanks for the comment and welcome aboard! ;{)-----
On bigger stuff back in the yards we used that type of rod from time to time, like aircraft hanger elevator cable end mounts. ;{)-----
Do you do broken bolt removals often? If so you should look into a tap disintigrator
I have so done that EZ to break thang.. I have thrown them all out of the my tool box.. LH drill or heat is the only way to go..
Knurled by pipe wrench. LOL! Will have to look for an opportunity to use that one.
Keith, instead of grindng I would have first tried a carbide drill, if that didn't work find a local shop with a tap desintegrater.
I have not used them but if they are anything like mini cooper ceramic heating blankets might work well, the speed of expantion is the goal! ;{)---
As a service technician, I shy away from them Ive learned their true name is "EZ breaks" and I shy away from using them.
Great Job, although I have welded nuts on to bolts I think I'll leave the brazing to experts like you.
If the easy out and the prior hole drilled was in center, of the bolts axis to make the rest of an attempt to remove valid, yes a carbide drill may work. ;{)------
It might have been faster to fixture it vertical in a mill from the get go and peck with an end mill, my best success has been to use a ball end mill first to make an actual center to then try and drill with a carbide drill or continue with a center cutting endmill. Also another option could be to fill it with epoxy and drill it to use a keensert although the limited material might be to thin to hold a keensert.
Welcome to the posting and thanks for the comment, I call that the bouquet of bullshit! ;{)-----
Yes, and that makes all the diference on why it broke and the getting it out! ;{)-----
Great video!
short question is there a reason you did not
simply drill it out with a carbide spade or
2 flute end mill and then retap it on location
I agree, this would have been my solution.
Rob
i used to use regular wrenches,but they came out with gear wrenches !!!!! only use regular wrenches for breaking bolts loose !!!!!
I'm impressed sir
Sounds good on paper but he very likely needed the heat, especially being the exhaust side..
I would have tried welding a nut, and then use heat to relieve the corrosion mess that was holding it, or set it up in the mill and find true center then drill and tap it clear. ;{)---
I'm not a fan of using heli-coils in extreme heat areas and hole was already targeted of center by the same person that broke off the easy out in it! It was a; fix it now so I can leave dock in a couple hours, on a weekend, type job.
;{)-----
Hey Keith, What's the title of the vids where you talked about the other man made damage? Keep up the good work!
Keith, how would you have removed the bolt that was broken off inside the casting, had the Easy Out misadventure not happened?
I guess... I guess we just STARE at plasma cutters now? Haha, tough ass, I guess you've been doing this for a while.
Great stuff. Maybe you need an apprentice for a week. :-) Watch out welding on cad plated hardware. That's bad stuff, gets in your bones and never leaves.
To be continued? You can't leave me hanging like that!
correct me if I'm wrong but, wouldn't it have been easier to pull the housing?
It is always better to have it completely broke down! The mechanic on the job, didn't want to break it down any more than he did to do the repairs so the guy could be back in service and on his way out fishing in a matter of hours. this was a work on it until its done weekend type job! Tuna season is crazy and time is a matter of catching and or not. ;{)------
Keith Fenner Ah, I was wondering the same thing. It's just 6 bolts holding that housing on. But I guess the fear was that it would go the way of the two studs on the other side?
I've busted out the remnants of broken off ez-outs before, I think they kinda shatter when they break. Maybe this one didn't...
A day at Turn Wright Machine Works I believe it was my first video! ;{)-----
Thanks for the tip...
best title
E-Z outs are never easy and rarely take things out. In my experience......ok i had a snapped off grease zerk that was quick and easy but that was about it didn't even have to drill anything.
Yes, in my play list is a section on the assembly of the whole system. ;{)-----
How about an EDM die sinker set up on the milling machine and spark erode the easy out, out of existence.
I have an old EDM die sinker that is designed for that exact purpose, it was sold by TOOL"O"RAMA and the brand name was RAWLMIKES. It's not very powerful but it does the job rather well.
like you said ,not an easy out,however if its not tooo bad it works.
well i need hlep... i broke the gauge pipe off of my air compressor how do you fix that
all hail the hot wrench!