The only thing these motors are gonna need when you're done with them is some kind of cooling jacket similar to what the Electric Fox put on his go kart. Would play nice with the EBMX controller pump settings.
You can google for wire gauge and current. It depends on the company for how they rate motor power. KO Moto pulls random BS out of their butts and claims that wattage. Top Power and QS both under rate their motors significantly.
@@de-bodgery does it make sense that for 1awg to handle 150A? that's usually the ratings I see online ebike motors with much higher ratings have way thinner phase wires/windings
@@universeexplorer9296 1 awg will defenetly handle 150a! 10 awg will too, but it gets hot. 8 awg is more like what you need for 150a. Consider that those ratings are for continuous DC at 72F and allowing for like 5F increase in temp. If that's your strict guidelines, then yes, use 1 awg. None of us on EV's are running continuous amps like you see people brag. They are doing like 200a for a few seconds and then current drops off rapidly to like 50% of that. In those kinds of scenarios, giant wires are not needed since they aren't seeing that massive current draw long term.
1600w version weighs 15 pounds. No idea about the 1800w version, but obviously a little more. Lightning Rods uses this motor on his ebike mid-drive kits. I don't think it matters what you put it on as long it serves the uses you have in mind. If you are referring to some law or whatever, I can't speak to that.
Thanks. Was just speaking of personal weight range opinion. This and practically all aftermarket motors are of course illegal for street use, not that it generally matters...
@@de-bodgery I'm thinking about trying to cool a QS165 by chopping off the heatsink fins and using heat-conductive epoxy to mount cheap Amazon water blocks. Other idea is custom-mill a new back and/or front cover. I may buy a cheaper v1 first just in case I completely ruin it.
@@MikeZ8709 I have a better idea for you and you don't have to mod the motor at all. In fact those fins are your friend! You will need gy910 thermal glue and 2 sizes of ductile copper tubing. I don't know off hand how many fins there are on a QS165, but lets pretend there are 40. What matters is that you can divide up the number of spaces between the fins into equal groupings. Copper tubing such as 1/4" and 3/8" will work great. You cut sections of 1/4" tubing that are a little longer than the width of the motor. The 3/8" tubing becomes the manifold ends and inter-connects for the 1/4" copper tubing. You cut lengths of 1/4" tubing and solder them into holes in the side of a section of 3/8" tubing. This is how it becomes the manifold ends and inter connects. Assuming that 40 fins, that's 40 sections of 1/4" tubing and 10 sections of 3/8" tubing. Your 2 manifold ends in my 40 fin scenario will have 4 holes for 1/4" tubes in a line on the side. You will need to bend the manifiold ends and interconnect sections to match the arc of the motor diameter. On the input and output sections, one end you pinch shut and then seal it with solder. The other end you solder in a burr fitting for the fluid hose to go onto. You have 8 longer sections of 3/8" tubing that can span 8 fin spaces so that 4 1/4" tubes go in and 4 go back out. You crimp shut and solder both ends so they are sealed. You will cross back and forth over the motor until you connect all the tubing together. Since ductile copper tubing is so flexible, you ought to be able to build the coolant manifold on your bench laying mostly flat other than the arc in the 3/8" tubing. Make the holes in the 3/8 tubing a very close fit to the 1/4" tubing so that the solder has very little area to bridge across and be weak. Something that works really well is an ice pic or other sharp pointed tool. You puncture a hole in the 3/8 tubing instead of drill a hole. I put a section of dowel inside the 3/8" tubing to support it so it wouldn't flatten when I punctured holes in it. This stretches the copper and flares the hole to create more surface area for the 1/4" tubing and solder so you have a more resilient joint. Once it is built, you can test fit it around the motor and gently bend things to fit nicely in between the fins on the motor. I'd pressure test it for leaks in case a solder joint cracked. Once it holds water, you will fill the bottoms of the spaces between the motor fins with thermal glue. The 1/4" tubing will press into the thermal glue and spread around the tubing. This will make a nice thermal interface between the motor and the copper manifold. Large zip ties or ratchet straps can be used to pull it all together tightly around the motor until the thermal glue cures. you really want to get the 1/4 tube sections to bottom out between the fins on the motor. Those fins will help hold everything in the right places and will add surface area to the coolant manifold. The input and output sides of the manifold will probably need to be secured to the motor more strongly than thermal glue. Soldering them together or JB weld will work. Fill in any gaps around the 1/4" tubing and the motor heat sink with more thermal glue as needed. The stuff usually takes 24 hours to cure. Don't take the zip ties or straps off for at least that long. Long zip ties or some other way to keep constant pressure on the manifiold to hold it into the fins is a good idea. I used really long hose clamps designed for clamping heating ducts together. Totally removeable and provides great clamping pressure. *** In case you didn't notice, I've already done this myself and it makes for a great water jacket for any inrunner motor. If you have a hollow core in a hub motor, you can possibly do something inside the hub motor core and bring out the water lines through the shaft end that doesn't have the phase wires. Inside the motor core, you want the tubing to touch everywhere it can closest to the stator windings.
@@de-bodgery i thought of this before the waterblock idea but ive never worked with copper. Glad to hear you think it's a valid idea. I'm worried about how the soldered joints will hold up to flex especially 1/4" OD entering the sides of 3/8" with little overlap. Fortunately it's a sealed motor. Also I think the gaps between the fins are larger than 1/4". Will you please get a rough measurement when you get a chance?
@@MikeZ8709 Once you have the thermal glue in place and cured the tubing doesn't move. Band clamps take away any other movement if there is any. The 1/4" tubing can extend inside the larger tube a good amount. This actually makes the liquid flow more turbulent and you want that. Because you puncture (not drill) holes you actually have a lot more wall for solder than you might think. Hasn't leaked yet for me. A butane torch is enough for this job.
El motor QS 165 en su ficha tecnica dice que puede aceptar picos de 450A y 47NM, con una bateria de 72V al 100% estamos en una tension de 84V lo que nos da una potencia pico Maxima de 37.8KW esto es real? podria lograr esos niveles de potencia?
The only thing these motors are gonna need when you're done with them is some kind of cooling jacket similar to what the Electric Fox put on his go kart.
Would play nice with the EBMX controller pump settings.
I'll be doing sims without external cooling and see how it goes. It may be that a water jacket is needed...not sure yet.
Yes please . ! Can you also put QS138 in to the MotorCAD
Hi, do you design or develop Motors?
I may have a QS138 90H coming...not sure yet.
I would love to buy one of those FROM YOU. 💪🏾💪🏾💪🏾
which one? TP-128 or a rewound QS165v2? If you want a QS165, well I'd need a motor for that rewind.
@@de-bodgery the v2. Getting ready to order one. As well as jump in on the other bulk order. Of the 128
@@DarkKent PM me on Facebook
You said that this is 1800 Watt motors and then you can rewind them for 13kW. How long they can run 13kW continuously? 2 minutes?
can you explain how do manufacturers rate motor wattage, and is there a trusted chart you know that shows current per awg rating?
You can google for wire gauge and current. It depends on the company for how they rate motor power. KO Moto pulls random BS out of their butts and claims that wattage. Top Power and QS both under rate their motors significantly.
@@de-bodgery does it make sense that for 1awg to handle 150A? that's usually the ratings I see online
ebike motors with much higher ratings have way thinner phase wires/windings
@@universeexplorer9296 1 awg will defenetly handle 150a! 10 awg will too, but it gets hot. 8 awg is more like what you need for 150a. Consider that those ratings are for continuous DC at 72F and allowing for like 5F increase in temp. If that's your strict guidelines, then yes, use 1 awg. None of us on EV's are running continuous amps like you see people brag. They are doing like 200a for a few seconds and then current drops off rapidly to like 50% of that. In those kinds of scenarios, giant wires are not needed since they aren't seeing that massive current draw long term.
@@de-bodgery that's exactly the answer I needed, thanks!
Doesn't the TP128 weigh around 18-20lbs? I believe that puts it more in the mx/light motorcycle category than ebike.
1600w version weighs 15 pounds. No idea about the 1800w version, but obviously a little more. Lightning Rods uses this motor on his ebike mid-drive kits. I don't think it matters what you put it on as long it serves the uses you have in mind. If you are referring to some law or whatever, I can't speak to that.
Thanks. Was just speaking of personal weight range opinion. This and practically all aftermarket motors are of course illegal for street use, not that it generally matters...
@@Barncatfish Illegal? What's that?
Do you think the QS165v2 is still a good motor without your teardown/rebuild procedure? Does the "cogging" effect make the power band less smooth?
It's a reasonably good motor as is. Magnetic cogging isn't that bad, but ideally you want no cogging.
@@de-bodgery I'm thinking about trying to cool a QS165 by chopping off the heatsink fins and using heat-conductive epoxy to mount cheap Amazon water blocks. Other idea is custom-mill a new back and/or front cover. I may buy a cheaper v1 first just in case I completely ruin it.
@@MikeZ8709 I have a better idea for you and you don't have to mod the motor at all. In fact those fins are your friend! You will need gy910 thermal glue and 2 sizes of ductile copper tubing. I don't know off hand how many fins there are on a QS165, but lets pretend there are 40. What matters is that you can divide up the number of spaces between the fins into equal groupings. Copper tubing such as 1/4" and 3/8" will work great. You cut sections of 1/4" tubing that are a little longer than the width of the motor. The 3/8" tubing becomes the manifold ends and inter-connects for the 1/4" copper tubing. You cut lengths of 1/4" tubing and solder them into holes in the side of a section of 3/8" tubing. This is how it becomes the manifold ends and inter connects. Assuming that 40 fins, that's 40 sections of 1/4" tubing and 10 sections of 3/8" tubing. Your 2 manifold ends in my 40 fin scenario will have 4 holes for 1/4" tubes in a line on the side. You will need to bend the manifiold ends and interconnect sections to match the arc of the motor diameter. On the input and output sections, one end you pinch shut and then seal it with solder. The other end you solder in a burr fitting for the fluid hose to go onto. You have 8 longer sections of 3/8" tubing that can span 8 fin spaces so that 4 1/4" tubes go in and 4 go back out. You crimp shut and solder both ends so they are sealed. You will cross back and forth over the motor until you connect all the tubing together. Since ductile copper tubing is so flexible, you ought to be able to build the coolant manifold on your bench laying mostly flat other than the arc in the 3/8" tubing. Make the holes in the 3/8 tubing a very close fit to the 1/4" tubing so that the solder has very little area to bridge across and be weak. Something that works really well is an ice pic or other sharp pointed tool. You puncture a hole in the 3/8 tubing instead of drill a hole. I put a section of dowel inside the 3/8" tubing to support it so it wouldn't flatten when I punctured holes in it. This stretches the copper and flares the hole to create more surface area for the 1/4" tubing and solder so you have a more resilient joint. Once it is built, you can test fit it around the motor and gently bend things to fit nicely in between the fins on the motor. I'd pressure test it for leaks in case a solder joint cracked. Once it holds water, you will fill the bottoms of the spaces between the motor fins with thermal glue. The 1/4" tubing will press into the thermal glue and spread around the tubing. This will make a nice thermal interface between the motor and the copper manifold. Large zip ties or ratchet straps can be used to pull it all together tightly around the motor until the thermal glue cures. you really want to get the 1/4 tube sections to bottom out between the fins on the motor. Those fins will help hold everything in the right places and will add surface area to the coolant manifold. The input and output sides of the manifold will probably need to be secured to the motor more strongly than thermal glue. Soldering them together or JB weld will work. Fill in any gaps around the 1/4" tubing and the motor heat sink with more thermal glue as needed. The stuff usually takes 24 hours to cure. Don't take the zip ties or straps off for at least that long. Long zip ties or some other way to keep constant pressure on the manifiold to hold it into the fins is a good idea. I used really long hose clamps designed for clamping heating ducts together. Totally removeable and provides great clamping pressure.
***
In case you didn't notice, I've already done this myself and it makes for a great water jacket for any inrunner motor. If you have a hollow core in a hub motor, you can possibly do something inside the hub motor core and bring out the water lines through the shaft end that doesn't have the phase wires. Inside the motor core, you want the tubing to touch everywhere it can closest to the stator windings.
@@de-bodgery i thought of this before the waterblock idea but ive never worked with copper. Glad to hear you think it's a valid idea. I'm worried about how the soldered joints will hold up to flex especially 1/4" OD entering the sides of 3/8" with little overlap. Fortunately it's a sealed motor. Also I think the gaps between the fins are larger than 1/4". Will you please get a rough measurement when you get a chance?
@@MikeZ8709 Once you have the thermal glue in place and cured the tubing doesn't move. Band clamps take away any other movement if there is any. The 1/4" tubing can extend inside the larger tube a good amount. This actually makes the liquid flow more turbulent and you want that. Because you puncture (not drill) holes you actually have a lot more wall for solder than you might think. Hasn't leaked yet for me. A butane torch is enough for this job.
Does the TP-128 fit in a Surron ??
If you are asking if it bolts right up like the QS165 does, then no. Can it be made to fit a surron? yes for sure.
@@de-bodgery How would I go about buying a qs165v2? To have to rewind it for me.... lol
@@NevilleSidhu Get on aliexpress and look up the motor and buy one
El motor QS 165 en su ficha tecnica dice que puede aceptar picos de 450A y 47NM, con una bateria de 72V al 100% estamos en una tension de 84V lo que nos da una potencia pico Maxima de 37.8KW esto es real? podria lograr esos niveles de potencia?
Peak numbers are generally meaningless...so are these ones.
@@de-bodgery cuál sería la potencia Máxima que lograría en los primeros 2 o 3 segundos de aceleración máxima?
For how much are you going to sell custom winding tp 128
Motor is $135, so add $400 to that. Price for my time may drop after a while, but that's what I'm going for now.
How do you spell your name for contact on facebook? Was going to add you for future group buys.
Richard Gumfaw