How I bond gas and water pipes - Electrician Apprentice - Do you pigtail your cables ?
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 3 มี.ค. 2022
- Hi all in this video I am showing you how I like to bond my gas and water pipes as an apprentice electrician , I chose to pigtail my cables as it leaves slack if it is ever needed to be moved . Do you do this ?
I'm agreeing with the comments. Pig tail is a no. Even though it's a short run it will add inductance to a fault and potentially have poor outcome.
Also I was taught it clean the pipe first, usually with strip of Emery cloth.
I always like to pig tail bonding too. You have done a neat job yet again!
Great vid Adam, I believe the reason why we put the safety label on top like that is to do with not having the label (often made of aluminium) in contact with the copper pipe which can lead to galvanic corrosion
Great video Adam, leaving a bit of slack is always a bonus be it straight or pigtail. I was always taught to position the tag back over the screw to deter anyone from removing the cable. Keep up the good work buddy
Sound video Adam, the reason you are not supposed to drill through the back of the gas box is that if there is a gas leak there the gas would go up the cavity.
Nice to see DS making a cameo! Great tips Adam!
Really great to see your own show I didn't realise. Subscribed 👌
I am in the USA, but I don't understand the reason for the "pigtail." That adds inductance, and adds more cable. You want it as short and straight as possible for ground lines. Otherwise good work. 👍😁
Pigtails are known as Loops in cables which are allowed. But coils in cables are not allowed as these can induce an electromagnetic field. Loops are shorter and not wound the same as coils therefore they assist with adding termination slack and releasing cable strain from the gland to the termination connection. Strained cables can create loose connections as copper/aluminium electrical cables expand and contract due to thermal effects and not meeting torque requirements of connections. Loops have zero turns while coils have many turns of wire/cable.
Great content Adam, the only recommendation I would suggest is when Nick says something, in this example about the "cross-bonding", try and elaborate on that just to help other viewers with understanding the terminology. Keep up the good work!
Adding pigtails to fast transient earths is a no no as it increases the impedance, therefore for consistency better to avoid pigtails as a rule unless required for vibration decoupling
I like to keep the clamp away from soldiered joints on copper pipes if I can. Just in case it does weaken the joint. Keep up the videos and keep an eye on Dave if he is behind you!!! ;)
Nice to one of the suspected livery artist still at large. A bit of neat cable dressing go's a long way.
I dont think you really need the heat shrink as the crimp connector and the earth strap are bare metal , also to be using a lighter beside gas ....Noooooooooo
Hello from Norway, low-voltage guy. Keep ut the work!
Cheers
In other industries pig tails are to prevent vibrations damaging the joint. For sparks, I thing it’s just looks flash.
Great video Adam 😎
I'm GasSafe and Napit reg'd. I prefer not to pigtail and try to create the shortest possible path to ground with leaving enough slack incase any amendments need to be made. We don't do rear entry into the gas box incase of gas escaping and entering the property. Same principle for the gas pipe itself, especially If it's a medium pressure installation. Equapotential bonding isn't required if the installation has polyethylene pipe upstream of the meter itself. Again same principle for mains water. The lighter near the gas meter made me cringe a little. Still a great little tutorial though 👍🏻
The strain relief offered by the pigtail is a huge benefit.
I don’t think the electrons will mind a slightly longer length it creates 😂
I'd generally prefer the pig tail also being GasSafe and NICEIC registered. Last time I sat my renewals it was classed as ID for rear entry on medium pressure installations. & regardless of Poly being upstream we're required to bond, you can't use Poly downstream of the meter though - rigid or semi rigid metal pipe only.
Good work Adam
Great video .
good video Adam, well done!
Cheers
Good video well done
Nice surprise guest 😃
The pigtail is a funny one, college lecturers told me that curling the cable puts stress on the copper and insulation. I think its personal choice, for me I would take it to the top of the gas box and then back down to the copper pipe.
#Legend Great video mate. Keep it the good work!!
Enjoyed that adam, I rarely put those pigtails in but that does look awesome 👏 👏
this was at the job u came to dude :) and cheers
@@AdamTheElectricalApprentice I no I recognised the gate 👀 😂
The amount of sparks that visited that house 😂 must have needed serious work.
@@AndyK.1 like a party it was 😂😂
well done on why you bond gas and water give your self a pat on the back.
Excellent
Oooh a David Savery in the wild 😆😆😆
Paid by the hour
Undoubtedly 👍
the clamp shouldnt be too close to a fitting as it could crack the solder on the joint. thats just what ive always been told you good job
Great work bro
Cheers
Put money on it that the gas intake is a plastic incoming pipe, so won't require bonding.
Interesting content son thank you 😊
You good job!
I'm an apprentice over here in Ireland and we were thought not to make pig tails specifically because it makes a longer path to ground. I know it is F$&k all in a big ship but the less distance the fault current has to travel, the better. (Even if it looks tasty ;) )
Good video Adam, never done the pig tail myself but might have a go next time ! 😁
Will have to check the regs, but I’m sure it mentions that if the gas meter is external you should bond it within 600mm of entry to the building. Why did you choose to bond in the meter cupboard itself, is the entry point in bulding too inaccessible?
Although saying that, the majority of new Builds I see, it’s often bonded in meter cupboard.
i like to clean copper with a bit of wire wool it maybe just me but i like to think it gets a better connection
I was literally just away to comment about cleaning the surface before attaching the bonding clamp 👍👍👍
okay ill do that from now cheers
Red scouring cloth is great
@@AndyK.1 im a lot older then you , probably, so wire wool it is none of ya new fangled shit !!!
Great video ad great for learners you’ve came a long way since ur first videos.. do yous do pig tails in the uk.. we don’t do it in Ireland because it can induce Eddie currents and faults..
50:50 if u do or don’t tbf
the screws in the side of the gas box fixing it to the wall need to be sealed as gas could escape into the wall cavity and you could get gas build up !! we away fix the gas box in the wall with expanding foam adhesive
In Australia, at least in my state of NSW, we're not allowed pig tails anymore. also no mechanical protection for the cable coming out the wall ?
doesn’t need any mechanical protection as it doesn’t carry voltage i believe
Bond your oil pipes too. Nick did that once.
Couldn't get the driver onto the head of the screw did you not consider turning the clamp and fitting it on the pioe sideways. As for pig tail not for me thank you.
Is there really any point in the heat shrink?
Nice video Ad! My question is have you tried the Tim Tams yet?
yeah there nice :)
Well done Adam, nicks like p diddy
Why not just put the clamp on the vertical section, much easier
Very Nice, BUT that cable Lug was Completely the Wrong Size for that 10mm Cable AND the Fixing Screw
The bonding has to be within 600mm of the gas meter outlet union, but before the 1st branch (Tee) if one is fitted.
ok cheers
@@AdamTheElectricalApprentice no worries, keep up the good work and great content :)
Where practicable… within 600mm.
Should be within 600mm of gas outlet as perhaps regs and please never bring them through the back of the box as it needs to be fire sealed as a gas escape could the fill the cavity wall.
Kick ass
Hy Adam. I am sparky to and have question 😁 for what purpouse in UK you make that tail of earth conductur look like a spring? 😊 be safe 🙃
To leave some slack and it looks good basically nothing else
on my first job like you i used crimps ive been told recently and after looking at am2s videos they just wrap the copper round the screw and tighten it. is it swings and roundabouts or is one way how it should be done
Swings in round about both ways work personally crimps are better
I thought the bonding needs to be within 600mm?
My mother in law she has brooms she uses one to go shipping.
Don’t you need to lightly sand the pipe so its bare copper without any oxidation just curious
Yes or use a Stanley blade
WTF is going on here?! This shows up in my feed, I see Nick Bundy and then Dave Savery in the same video. I would have double checked what I'm smoking, but I'm not smoking anything!
Quick tip for ya pigtails carry a short piece of 22mm pipe in ya box 👍
Good tip!
Just to confirm. There is no gromit needed into the enclosure?
not really dude as its plastic with no sharp edge's and the cable has room to move upon entry point cheers
@@AdamTheElectricalApprentice it was the cable moving that made me think of gromit.
Gas bonding - within 600mm of the Meter before the first Tee, or within 600mm of the entry to the building before the first Tee. Regardless of the incoming supply pipe, be it polypropylene (yellow plastic) or not. Same is true of Oil supplies from Oil tanks, though you're better off bonding an oil supply after it transitions to pipe and away from Soft Copper Pipe.
Also very nice to see you bring up the bond in the correct position and not through the back of the meter box. Very nice pig tails to boot.
cheers
Yes , bond onto those PLASTIC pipes, you crack on.... Did you read what you actually typed there...
Why bond the gas pipe if it's not extraneous?
@@andrewcadby All pipework gets bonded consumer side of the meter which is required to be in rigid metal (steel or copper, or semi rigid ie trackpipe). Gas Meters are supposed to be securely fixed to the fabric of the building giving them the same potential as earth.
It's a Gas requirement to minimise explosion risk rather than a requirement of BS7671 for electrical safety.
@@effervescence5664 Thanks for the explanation
When’s the giveaway mate 👍🏼
the winner will be announced in next weeks video :)
Think bonding is within 600mm of the meter
ok cheers
Gas company that put our gas meters outside never re earthed the meters.
No need to bond externally
Just a quick question what’s with the maccies hat 🤣
His daughter worked there briefly
You good job. Loads of flux on that gas pipe, wonder if that was the meter man or the plumber. Bet Dave is gonna drop that rom to see if there is any victorian porn on it.
ahah cheers
600mm
If not possible/practicable. Within 600mm of entering the dwelling before the first T branch. 👍🏻
@Ray C within 600mm of the outlet of the gas meter and before the first T.
@@seanyorke4295 Yes but if it's not possible to do this. Then it's also acceptable to equipotentially bond on the gas or water pipe entering the dwelling.
Pigtail is just a waste of cable.
Its like 20p or something on a job that costs 10's of £. And the cost of not having it will often hit down the line. Props to tradesmen who go the little bit extra to make a big difference I say.
Got some dirt on your cheek there pal
Pig tail add extra resistance that's not needed
Also get the correct size lugs and it makes a nicer job
10-5 lugs fit properly look nice and fit into heatshrink easier
When you increase the length of a cable, what happens to the resistance?
This is NOT good practice.
As college I was taught to leave pigtails